I have not used any special printer settings. I used the regular printer settings. When I set it to "high" printer quality, it took longer to print, and it actually starts to dry before it finishes printing. I have not tried it on metal or plastic. You can try it, but I think the material needs to be porous. My guess is that it will just wipe off the metal when you touched it afterwards.
BigBoss if you are VERY CAREFUL not to touch the ink even after it has been transferred, try using a product like Krylon Crystal (basically clear spray paint style sealant) to apply a protective coating over the ink. I'd start with a light dusting and re-apply a slightly heavier coat two or three times in 10 minute intervals, gradually building up to a "normal" coat. If you spray too much too soon, the still-wet ink may mix with the sealant. I don't KNOW that this will work, but it's worth a shot if you have some spare parts laying around to do a test-run on. After your last coat (if using krylon), you can move the object around lightly but don't put it to normal use for 24 hours per the directions on the can. Each coat should be dry to the touch after about 10-15 minutes though. I recommend spraying another scrap piece and using that to test dryness, rather than risk smudging the piece you're working with. Once the scrap piece is dry, the art piece should be, too.
Well, I had a go... but... is the A4 (or printing paper) a 'must'? I didn't attach it. The wax paper showed a good printed image but the transfer didn't work. I could hardly see a shadow on the piece of wood. Maybe the ink dried too fast or I really should have attached the printing paper. Any special tips?
I did find that you have to apply it pretty quickly, otherwise the ink will dry. It needs to be raw wood, without any paint or sealer on it. The printing paper is just to keep the wax paper flat as it goes through the printer. I found on my printer that the wax paper was too curly to go through on its own, and the ink would be splotchy. If it looks good as it comes out of your printer, than you probably do not need the paper, and whatever problem you are having is not caused by that.
Then it must have been the wood. I hope it's ok to say I used a 'Kaisercraft' piece of wood, which is a really smooth type (no texture and no sheen) but I'm no expert so it may have some sort of sealer... or it may not even be real wood!
Great video, mate. Does it last though?
This is really cool :) would it ruin your printer though?
Does this work for all printers? My printer is not ink jet
I tried it with my inkjet and the printer damages the image. I found laser and mod podge works well on wax paper
when you rub the paper, how do you know it is ready ?
Very cool! Thanks for sharing this
Is there a certain side of the waxed paper that u print onto?
is the tint is waterbased ? or pigment tint ?
looks great! do I need any special printer settings and could I press the ink onto something like a metal alloy our plastic?
I have not used any special printer settings. I used the regular printer settings. When I set it to "high" printer quality, it took longer to print, and it actually starts to dry before it finishes printing.
I have not tried it on metal or plastic. You can try it, but I think the material needs to be porous. My guess is that it will just wipe off the metal when you touched it afterwards.
BigBoss if you are VERY CAREFUL not to touch the ink even after it has been transferred, try using a product like Krylon Crystal (basically clear spray paint style sealant) to apply a protective coating over the ink. I'd start with a light dusting and re-apply a slightly heavier coat two or three times in 10 minute intervals, gradually building up to a "normal" coat. If you spray too much too soon, the still-wet ink may mix with the sealant. I don't KNOW that this will work, but it's worth a shot if you have some spare parts laying around to do a test-run on. After your last coat (if using krylon), you can move the object around lightly but don't put it to normal use for 24 hours per the directions on the can. Each coat should be dry to the touch after about 10-15 minutes though. I recommend spraying another scrap piece and using that to test dryness, rather than risk smudging the piece you're working with. Once the scrap piece is dry, the art piece should be, too.
your printer is a laser printer?
No, it's an ink jet. This method only works with an ink jet.
where did u buy the wax paper??
as I am looking to transfer as a transfer hack for pyrography
I bought my wax paper at the grocery store, in the same section as the aluminum foil and parchment paper.
Ok thanks..
I've checked all my local stores but I have been unable to locate some..
so have used ebay..
thanks again m8
does the ink go through the wax paper?
it is easy and cool . seems i can try it at home
wax paper is baking paper?
baking paper is non sticky wax is naturally sticky, you could use either one.
And you don't need to add something like a gel or spray before the transfer?
No, the ink is absorbed directly into the wood, so you do not want anything coating the wood.
Thanks. I will have a go at it.
Well, I had a go... but... is the A4 (or printing paper) a 'must'? I didn't attach it. The wax paper showed a good printed image but the transfer didn't work. I could hardly see a shadow on the piece of wood. Maybe the ink dried too fast or I really should have attached the printing paper. Any special tips?
I did find that you have to apply it pretty quickly, otherwise the ink will dry.
It needs to be raw wood, without any paint or sealer on it.
The printing paper is just to keep the wax paper flat as it goes through the printer. I found on my printer that the wax paper was too curly to go through on its own, and the ink would be splotchy. If it looks good as it comes out of your printer, than you probably do not need the paper, and whatever problem you are having is not caused by that.
Then it must have been the wood. I hope it's ok to say I used a 'Kaisercraft' piece of wood, which is a really smooth type (no texture and no sheen) but I'm no expert so it may have some sort of sealer... or it may not even be real wood!
image did not come out on my ink jet printer
Has el escudo de hylian pliiss(no se como se escribe:'()
Wow