Probably the best video I’ve seen on this. Currently struggling with mine. It started making a buzzing sound that is quieter than the buzzer but I can turn the buzzing down with the knob till it’s silent. And my brake lights/ marker lights also get dimmed by the knob. Any thoughts?
thank you! unfortunately, i cannot say for sure, but i would look at the connection for the switch. It may be corroded causing some arching. it is fairly common on these jeep xj's.
My headlights work but no running lights or rear lights. Brake lights yes, rev lights yes, turn signals 3 out of 4 so i need a bulb .. but i think maybe no rear running lights or front running lights or a dash lights that adjust when turning the dimmer knob. So i think i need to look into the dimmer and the harness plug also.
I would definitely look at your fuses and the headlight switch. With the symptoms you described, I would think the switch is the culprit, but it is always easy/free to check the fuses first. If you do have a blown fuse, you are not out of the woods yet. That fuse likely would have blown for a reason and i would suspect the switch to have shorted out somewhere.
UPDATE !!! I just finished replacing the light switch on my '96 Cherokee. I have replaced similar switches on different trucks. The switch on my jeep COULD NOT BE REPLACE FROM BELOW THE DASH. I pulled lower dash and began the process as I have done before. With the retainer nut removed there was maybe an inch of slack wiring harness allowing the switch barely an inch of movement. No way to disconnect and remove the old switch, and definitely no way to install the new switch. I started pulling down the far left idiot light panel, discovered that is riveted into place. Then went after the instrument panel. pulled instrument panel bezel, and instrument panel which also required removing trim from the steering column around ignition switch/hazard light panel. (you will need a t-20 driver, and not a t20 bit on an extension) It was barely possible to replace the switch going in through the instrument panel location. New switch had 2 grounds, old switch and harness had one. Had to fabricate wiring, you will need 2 spade female terminals and wire. Doable, but major P.I.A.
Is one of the make to female parts of the switch for the instrument cluster lights? I know this is a toggle switch thing for it but I replaced the bulbs and so I’m thinking this is the reason my instrument cluster lights won’t work. My headlights will come on fine but my high beams won’t stay on like yours in the beginning of the video. Opinions?
Probably the best video I’ve seen on this. Currently struggling with mine. It started making a buzzing sound that is quieter than the buzzer but I can turn the buzzing down with the knob till it’s silent. And my brake lights/ marker lights also get dimmed by the knob. Any thoughts?
thank you! unfortunately, i cannot say for sure, but i would look at the connection for the switch. It may be corroded causing some arching. it is fairly common on these jeep xj's.
@@myles2go. turns out the switch internals shorted. Used a continuity test to figure it out
@@danbeall8467 thats good news! should be an easy fix.
Thank you !
My headlights work but no running lights or rear lights. Brake lights yes, rev lights yes, turn signals 3 out of 4 so i need a bulb .. but i think maybe no rear running lights or front running lights or a dash lights that adjust when turning the dimmer knob. So i think i need to look into the dimmer and the harness plug also.
I would definitely look at your fuses and the headlight switch. With the symptoms you described, I would think the switch is the culprit, but it is always easy/free to check the fuses first. If you do have a blown fuse, you are not out of the woods yet. That fuse likely would have blown for a reason and i would suspect the switch to have shorted out somewhere.
UPDATE !!!
I just finished replacing the light switch on my '96 Cherokee. I have replaced similar switches on different trucks. The switch on my jeep COULD NOT BE REPLACE FROM BELOW THE DASH. I pulled lower dash and began the process as I have done before. With the retainer nut removed there was maybe an inch of slack wiring harness allowing the switch barely an inch of movement. No way to disconnect and remove the old switch, and definitely no way to install the new switch. I started pulling down the far left idiot light panel, discovered that is riveted into place. Then went after the instrument panel. pulled instrument panel bezel, and instrument panel which also required removing trim from the steering column around ignition switch/hazard light panel. (you will need a t-20 driver, and not a t20 bit on an extension) It was barely possible to replace the switch going in through the instrument panel location. New switch had 2 grounds, old switch and harness had one. Had to fabricate wiring, you will need 2 spade female terminals and wire. Doable, but major P.I.A.
i agree, jeep could have made this part easier to change
Is one of the make to female parts of the switch for the instrument cluster lights? I know this is a toggle switch thing for it but I replaced the bulbs and so I’m thinking this is the reason my instrument cluster lights won’t work. My headlights will come on fine but my high beams won’t stay on like yours in the beginning of the video. Opinions?
yes, one of the pins on that connector is for your cluster lights.
I was wondering how you got it in
laying upside down. it is a lot easier if you remove the seat.