Mine was that exactly, the radio wasn’t grounded enough I ran a 8 gauge wire from my ground bar to the ground bolt on the back of my radio and it stopped all the weird stuff that it was doing so I can definitely agree with ya there
To add to this, basically what is happening is that the “ground” at the radio is slightly different than the ground at the amplifier. This can be due to small resistances between the negative battery post and the ground at each device. Once these grounds are at separate potentials, you then connect the RCAs between them. This creates a short between these two different grounds at different potentials. When you have two different potentials connected you get a current flow, which is now going across your rcas and being turned into noise. (Poor grounding somewhere, or in multiple locations in the system) A ground loop isolator is more of a band aid for this issue (typically a couple transformers that will “isolate” the rca wires and remove that short between the two different ground potentials).The real fix is to upgrade and fix your grounds everywhere you can. This includes the battery grounds to chassis (big 3) and the grounds for the radio and the amplifier. All the extra wire you added is doing is making a lower resistance path for the current to flow (reducing the current flowing across the RCAs and the noise).
@@mattb6001 what he said. People always over look their grounds. I was told by a shop keep them short clean and ohm ohm the ground if you still have noise.
Awesome. Always have an interesting point as well information that you convey with superior knowledge of the subject yet, can articulate your process and reasons with explanations that are not overly complicated or full of jargon that noobs may not understand just yet. Either way, I'm always impressed with the editing and the clarity which your contents videos are afforded. Its obvious this is a passion of your and your serious about your hobbies. That awesome and it adds up to a entertaining narrative, clear understandable explanations and builds and finally, just solid work. Keep it up man because there are definitely persons out here that are searching for an answer and seeing hands on is usually more beneficial than just reading off a phone or some directions... good stuff brother!
Good stuff, glad You got rid of the hiss. You basicly made a ground loop isolator. Some Rca's used to come made with a small wire in them for that purpose. You should think about grounding the head unit to the amps ground, that will also eliminate ground loops (aka too many items connected together using different grounding points).
@@thenotoriousrvh6091 Wow, i'm still learning. I used to use that as a remote wire as that is what i understood it to be, i haven't done that in quite a while now though.
Pioneer radios have a rca ground problem, put a ground from the rca ground on the back of the radio to the radio chassis. I had this problem with 3 pioneer radios and this solved it
They have what's called a pico fuse and they blow all the time and it breaks the ground on the headunit preouts. It happens if you hot swap RCAs, or look at them the wrong way lol.
Grounding issue! Dealt with quite a few of these in my jeep back in the day. Good thinking on grounding the RCAs, tiffany style connectors FTW!!! Relocating the amps ground should solve the issue, better yet run a ground all the way to the negative post on the battery is the best you could do.
Yes, can't beat a ground run from alt case or battery negative.. I've got 2 grounds.. 1 from alt case to rear battery and to chassis. No issues with static sound whatsoever 👌
Grounding rhe signal worked for me the -ve of the rca from the radio...just ground it to the body of the radio..it works really well....even on alternator whine
Humming....9/10....its ground.most over looked thing in install......infact!!!...thats the first thing i do since i used to have ground issues back in the day....lol
Was the old/new rcas OFC wire and what gauge? Just out of curiosity. Thanks for sharing and love the content. Looking forward to the Deaf Bonce review.
Parker, if your deck is a pioneer and you unplug or plug your RCA's in while the deck is powered on it will blow the PECO fuse inside the headunit. This will cause noise issues as well. Worth a shot to check it out.
I’m going through the same thing it’s the grounds to the frame they need to be cleaned and tightened I noticed the noise started as soon as the fall hit and things got wetter
So what did u do with that red wire to remedy the prob? & does it say that as trouble shooting prob for amp or radio or ? I love how my car sounds when its beating in the garage.
Parker . I love the subs and box. I got 2 18s and had to build a box and bought it to the have to use the mdf board. I dont have any extra money right now but i want to build a better box. When i go though i was wondering what you and the chat thought. I got an older expedition and the 2 12s i had didn't move things. So i went with 2 18s and 2000 watts. When i build a better looking box should i stay with 2 18 or go with 4 15s or however many 12s. I'm not going over the 2000 watt amp . I'm running a stock alt with the 2000 for subs and 500 watts for the doors so I'm keeping it like that for now. But I'm wondering if its better to go 2 18s 1000 rms apiece or 4 15 500 apiece 6 12s at 300 or whatever or just stick with the 2 18s. I was thinking when i get the money to run another battery and get a 1200 watt skar amp from my boy for cheap and maybe run the 2 18s with 2 12s. Give myself a little more bang and a little variation on my bass knobs switching between 18s and 12s depending on wife and kids in the car or whatever. Idk i just said alot but basically 2 18s or more subs of a different size
Can u help me out? So I have 2 skar 15s. I have a taramps bass 5k on em, for the mids I have 4 prv neos with a 2k 4 channel taramps.. I have a audiocontrol lcq1.. factory head unit. 0 gauge wire. And a optima battery. So when I play it low, it plays fine, but when it gets loud, I get a static noise sometimes and my audiocontrol goes into maximize and shuts down. If i restart the stereo it works fine. But then shuts down when loud. Would u lnow why? Or a thought? Also when I start the stereo, or car, I get a loud thump from the bass subs. Idk. Pls help.
Did your factory radio have a braided wire connected to the back of it and attached to the metal in your dash? If so do the same to your aftermarket hu so it grounds the static out.
@@pvgreen621 I think it would be difficult to tell. It would mainly be for reliability and to match his 4 channel amp. But he has a lot of issues out of his SFB 500.4
I had engine noise in my system as well my solution was to run 2 wires 10ga ground and positive from my bus bars in the rear to the dash so every component in the system sees exact same positive and exact same negative and presto complete silence between tracks, since then thats how I always power everything.
You don’t need to run a ground from head unit to amp rcas. What you need to do is ground your head unit rcas. It’s very common for pioneer but I had to do that for a kenwood deck. Take a wire and wrap them around the rcas at the head unit then you ground it at the head unit. It will solve your issue, if not then it’s the amp.
Hey parker I have a quick question for you can I run 4 4ohm skar fax 6.5 midrange there a 150rms each and 4 4ohm skar supertweeters vx200-st 100rms on that sundown sub 500.4?
I have same radio with that same issue ran a wire from the rca and grounded to the radio that works as well for that issue I think it's something with Pioneer avh radios
Usually those 1 farad capacitors aren't real, most capacitors made by amplifier brands to buffer your power rails going into an amplifier usually aren't legitimate, typically they're just a board with a bunch of tiny no name branded cheap capacitors wired in parallel surrounded by a cheap can. I had a so-called 1 farad capacitor by lightning audio and it just had several capacitors wired in parallel on a tiny board, with a block of concrete on the bottom to make it seem like it was heavier than it actually was and it only added up to about a hundred thousand microfarads. That's also one of the reasons why most people who use power capacitors for subwoofer amplifiers always say they don't really do much because they're not really what they are advertised and they are being ripped off. If you want to get a real one farad capacitor, go to Mouser Electronics, find a screw type capacitor, make sure it's at least 16 - 25 volts, use nichicons nt or lnr series as an example, both are fantastic. it won't be cheap but you get what you pay for, you'd actually be getting a real 1 farad capacitor from a well-established brand and a well-known component distributor. This is a REAL 1 Farad capacitor, it's worth the 172 bucks! 647-LNR1C105MSE www.mouser.com/access/?pn=647-LNR1C105MSE&sn=647-LNR1C105MSE&LNR1C105MSE&Nichicon I also highly recommend you get 470 ohm 3 or 5 watt resistor and have that attached to the negative terminal when you first power up the capacitor the resistor is going to get incredibly hot, however it's necessary to have a resistor at on it at first to limit the capacitors inRushCurrent, it'll draw so much current that it's almost like a dead short. it would put a considerable strain on your alternator and battery if you don't put a resistor before it you'll likely get a spark from one of its terminals once you touch it because it'll be sucking so much power. leave the resistor attached for 5 or 10 mins before hooking it up to the system directly. Also don't forget to observe proper polarity, make sure the positive goes to the positive and the negative goes to the negative, otherwise you can damage the capacitor.
@@analogaudiorules1724 yeah i know those 1 farad capacitors are a joke for storage but ive seen a video of a guy showing that they help eliminate engine noise. i use a bank of maxwell super caps with a 120ah agm in the trunk for storage. its a bit of an overkill for 1500w but it keeps my voltage up to the mids 13s. my car limits my voltage to 13.8v instead of the traditional 14.4v, its something to do with gas efficiency
Ay basshead parker !! Fist off the deafbounce Mids sound great an i think there are my next Mids., secondly the ground on the alt could have been some of that problem. Should have grounded to the block( engine) . third, Running the ground all The way back work great.....never ground anything by a electric motor. You will pick up Interference.( blower motor)
Hey Parker would be a good setup for 2 12s for an extended cab I have 2 nemisis audio 12s on 1 k amp but want something that will flex the windshield and wipers mine rattles the truck decent but want more damage lol and want something that plays low and hits hard any suggestions and don’t want to pay 500$ a sub wanna go with 2 12s on maybe like a 6 k cause want to keep stock alternator and no additional battery’s truck has 2 battery anyway
The whisling noise can be stopped completely by fixing the ground resistor inside on the headunit's circuit board, its a regular problem found in audio systems
@@jarredri its usually located close to the rca outputs... i recomend you consult someone does repairs... if it isnt done properly it can mess up the head unit
U shouldnt have to run that ground all the way to the amp. Just ground that wire on the rca in the headunit to the frame. Worked for me. If you have to u can do the same at the amp
Skar. Watch budget gem or budget bust he reviews a bunch of amps. So does bigD wiz. There are a ton of budget amps out there it really comes down to your application as to which features you need.
Didn't work for me. I still get buzzing or whining and I bought new pioneer deck and I still have it. Only th ing i can think of is a ground loop to my seat frame where its connected at
A "rf gound loop isolator" is cylindrical and look like a "D" size battery with male rca plugs on one end and female on the other it goes inbetween the radio and the amplifiers good rca's are shielded but some cars have it and that was always the solution good luck happy bumpin
It also knocks out the thumping that some systems will have when you change the radio station or when you turn it on and off your hear loud thumps go into the subwoofers it knocks out the winding from the engine and that bass thumping feedback
Should just build nasty doors Biggest improvement on mine was adding 10 6.5s , 2 - 10 inch neos , 8 tweeters , just need to get horns Makes everything so much better
The rca ends unscrew to loosen and tighten when connected/disconnected. Loving the build!
Exactly!
Parker, I'm going to send you a piece of sound deadening for that license plate! 😁
LOL i was just going to tell him the same thing.
Relocate your ground. Thats a ground issue. Could even be the ground for the deck, or you have stray voltage.
Mine was that exactly, the radio wasn’t grounded enough I ran a 8 gauge wire from my ground bar to the ground bolt on the back of my radio and it stopped all the weird stuff that it was doing so I can definitely agree with ya there
To add to this, basically what is happening is that the “ground” at the radio is slightly different than the ground at the amplifier. This can be due to small resistances between the negative battery post and the ground at each device.
Once these grounds are at separate potentials, you then connect the RCAs between them. This creates a short between these two different grounds at different potentials. When you have two different potentials connected you get a current flow, which is now going across your rcas and being turned into noise. (Poor grounding somewhere, or in multiple locations in the system)
A ground loop isolator is more of a band aid for this issue (typically a couple transformers that will “isolate” the rca wires and remove that short between the two different ground potentials).The real fix is to upgrade and fix your grounds everywhere you can. This includes the battery grounds to chassis (big 3) and the grounds for the radio and the amplifier.
All the extra wire you added is doing is making a lower resistance path for the current to flow (reducing the current flowing across the RCAs and the noise).
@@mattb6001 what he said. People always over look their grounds. I was told by a shop keep them short clean and ohm ohm the ground if you still have noise.
Yup newb shit lol better head unit ground or ground to the same point as the amp done deal
he could aslo add a cap on to the four channel amp for cleaner output to the amp
Sweet bro, I haven't stayed current with your channel in a minute due to work and I'm loving the upgrades 🔊🔊🎵🎶🔊🔊🎶🔊🔊🎵🎶🔊🔊👍
I’ve tried commenting this on the last one. The deck needs its own chassis ground and run a 12 volt constant directly from the battery
Bout time you came back. Glad to see you still got the Toyota, now let's get back to what made your videos KING. Keep growing your build dude
Awesome. Always have an interesting point as well information that you convey with superior knowledge of the subject yet, can articulate your process and reasons with explanations that are not overly complicated or full of jargon that noobs may not understand just yet. Either way, I'm always impressed with the editing and the clarity which your contents videos are afforded. Its obvious this is a passion of your and your serious about your hobbies. That awesome and it adds up to a entertaining narrative, clear understandable explanations and builds and finally, just solid work. Keep it up man because there are definitely persons out here that are searching for an answer and seeing hands on is usually more beneficial than just reading off a phone or some directions... good stuff brother!
Glad you're working on your high's man not just the low's
couldnt wait to see this amp in action!!! thanks parker
Yeah man I’m excited!
Nice and loud/ clear. Great job dude!
Congrats on the House! I was wondering why we hadn’t seen the video in like a month
They Sound Good my Friend!!👊🏾💪🏾🔊
knu makes great ofc wire as well, great video man
Good stuff, glad You got rid of the hiss. You basicly made a ground loop isolator. Some Rca's used to come made with a small wire in them for that purpose. You should think about grounding the head unit to the amps ground, that will also eliminate ground loops (aka too many items connected together using different grounding points).
I still have a couple sets of Rockford Foagates like that. Twisted with a grounding wire
@@stevepartridge75 Yep I know the ones. Some people used it for a remote turn on to. I wouldn't but I guess it could.
@@thenotoriousrvh6091 Wow, i'm still learning. I used to use that as a remote wire as that is what i understood it to be, i haven't done that in quite a while now though.
@@HashDogg06 You aren't the only one 😂. I guess it'd be fine. Just a little too thin for my liking.
Damn my dude, nice system! Sick Amp just for the doors lmao
Definitely a good idea grounding the rca
That new garage looks awesome now you have highs with your bass get the new garage shaking man
Great video bro thanks for that rca grounding tip👍🏾
Pioneer radios have a rca ground problem, put a ground from the rca ground on the back of the radio to the radio chassis. I had this problem with 3 pioneer radios and this solved it
They have what's called a pico fuse and they blow all the time and it breaks the ground on the headunit preouts. It happens if you hot swap RCAs, or look at them the wrong way lol.
Good to know.. I just installed a pioneer & I hate that whining noise..
Never unplug the rcas with the headinit powered up. It pops the fuse immediately.
Grounding issue! Dealt with quite a few of these in my jeep back in the day. Good thinking on grounding the RCAs, tiffany style connectors FTW!!! Relocating the amps ground should solve the issue, better yet run a ground all the way to the negative post on the battery is the best you could do.
Yes, can't beat a ground run from alt case or battery negative.. I've got 2 grounds.. 1 from alt case to rear battery and to chassis. No issues with static sound whatsoever 👌
Ground loop isolaters are not a solution. They are a band-aid that effects sq negatively. Separate ground to head unit chassis
Grounding rhe signal worked for me the -ve of the rca from the radio...just ground it to the body of the radio..it works really well....even on alternator whine
Humming....9/10....its ground.most over looked thing in install......infact!!!...thats the first thing i do since i used to have ground issues back in the day....lol
Was the old/new rcas OFC wire and what gauge? Just out of curiosity. Thanks for sharing and love the content. Looking forward to the Deaf Bonce review.
using that new new to record thank you my man
Keep progressing!
Parker, if your deck is a pioneer and you unplug or plug your RCA's in while the deck is powered on it will blow the PECO fuse inside the headunit. This will cause noise issues as well. Worth a shot to check it out.
pioneer units had peco fuse problems since i was young, its what knocked them out the lead back in the day kenwood all day since
Sounds good bro
I’m going through the same thing it’s the grounds to the frame they need to be cleaned and tightened I noticed the noise started as soon as the fall hit and things got wetter
The noise came back I think I’m going to have to ground the rcas or find where they are not paralleled
So what did u do with that red wire to remedy the prob? & does it say that as trouble shooting prob for amp or radio or ? I love how my car sounds when its beating in the garage.
Where did your speaker pods from. I'm looking for some for my 02 sequoia
What’s the name of the track used in this demo video? sounds good I would like to hear it in my vehicle
What is the best amp to run 2 12 4stock audiopipe woofers
The factory ground must not be great? Noise from the head unit?
I have the sfb 1000.4 and it’s giving me the bad static. so i just put the ground wire behind the rca on the head unit and on the amp?
Love it!!
Parker . I love the subs and box. I got 2 18s and had to build a box and bought it to the have to use the mdf board. I dont have any extra money right now but i want to build a better box. When i go though i was wondering what you and the chat thought. I got an older expedition and the 2 12s i had didn't move things. So i went with 2 18s and 2000 watts. When i build a better looking box should i stay with 2 18 or go with 4 15s or however many 12s. I'm not going over the 2000 watt amp . I'm running a stock alt with the 2000 for subs and 500 watts for the doors so I'm keeping it like that for now. But I'm wondering if its better to go 2 18s 1000 rms apiece or 4 15 500 apiece 6 12s at 300 or whatever or just stick with the 2 18s. I was thinking when i get the money to run another battery and get a 1200 watt skar amp from my boy for cheap and maybe run the 2 18s with 2 12s. Give myself a little more bang and a little variation on my bass knobs switching between 18s and 12s depending on wife and kids in the car or whatever. Idk i just said alot but basically 2 18s or more subs of a different size
“Canoo Concepts”
😂🤣
Can u help me out? So I have 2 skar 15s. I have a taramps bass 5k on em, for the mids I have 4 prv neos with a 2k 4 channel taramps.. I have a audiocontrol lcq1.. factory head unit. 0 gauge wire. And a optima battery. So when I play it low, it plays fine, but when it gets loud, I get a static noise sometimes and my audiocontrol goes into maximize and shuts down. If i restart the stereo it works fine. But then shuts down when loud. Would u lnow why? Or a thought? Also when I start the stereo, or car, I get a loud thump from the bass subs. Idk. Pls help.
Anybody know what fuse to put on the sundown amp?
How many mid range can u hook up to each channel
Did your factory radio have a braided wire connected to the back of it and attached to the metal in your dash? If so do the same to your aftermarket hu so it grounds the static out.
Do you like that those Deaf Bonce are mainly vocals and not much midbass??
How many watts are going to the mids and highs?
parker have you tried the new American bass hawks out yet?
Nvx audio is the best in RCA wire's, it's sounds great! Might have to try them out myself.
Its the fuse built into ur pioneer radio it does that it will blow then create a bunch of humming ive had it happen a few times
When ya gonna upgrade to the SFB-13500D? Cmon, I know you want too!
@@PeterFeltersnatch852 If I had the money to spare I would! Love seeing his videos!
Get a bstock thats what I did I was 980 and just had a damaged box
Do you think the sundown SFB will out perform the Taramps. Well he is going up 1300 more watts but in a head to head competition?
@@pvgreen621 I think it would be difficult to tell. It would mainly be for reliability and to match his 4 channel amp. But he has a lot of issues out of his SFB 500.4
@@jonadkins9339 what kind of issues?
What 6x8 u recommend for this amp ?
I had engine noise in my system as well my solution was to run 2 wires 10ga ground and positive from my bus bars in the rear to the dash so every component in the system sees exact same positive and exact same negative and presto complete silence between tracks, since then thats how I always power everything.
Cool amp!
How good is the sfb 500.4 currently have a sax125.4 want to upgrade to the sfb500.4 for more power for my speakers
You don’t need to run a ground from head unit to amp rcas. What you need to do is ground your head unit rcas. It’s very common for pioneer but I had to do that for a kenwood deck.
Take a wire and wrap them around the rcas at the head unit then you ground it at the head unit. It will solve your issue, if not then it’s the amp.
Yep..exactly..pioneers are notorious for it
Yup them damn Pico fuses.
Where you get those rca cables from Parker🤙🏾
Common pioneer promble... What's you crossover set too???
Been awhile bro.👍👍
Hey man I had the same amp you have to ground you headunit I’m still watching the video but ground the headunit and it would be better
Did you ground a wire to the head unit itself. Or to the ground wire on the head unit harness. Please reply. Tks
You need to ground all the RCA outputs to the chassis of the radio to get around a blown Pico fuse.
arent Taramps amps supposed to cause serious interference? might be worth running the small amp and cutting off the big one
What head unit do you have.
Hey parker I have a quick question for you can I run 4 4ohm skar fax 6.5 midrange there a 150rms each and 4 4ohm skar supertweeters vx200-st 100rms on that sundown sub 500.4?
I have same radio with that same issue ran a wire from the rca and grounded to the radio that works as well for that issue I think it's something with Pioneer avh radios
How you bypass the factory amp
What kind of supplemental power/battery you running?
What is the box tuned to? You never said
Good fix
Did you tune your mids and highs using a 1khz test tone?? If so did you use a 0db tone?
Have you tried a taramps on your high end?
Hey Parker i have the same amp and speakers can you show me your tune you used
Are you going to start doing review on midrange speakers?
I will do a few
What radio you have in this video
Does anyone know earthquake subs I want Parker to do a review on the dbxi model they are very interesting
do you think they make noise because the amp doesnt have as much capacitors compare to an a/b amp? would those 1 farad caps help filter the noise
Its a blown Pico fuse.
Usually those 1 farad capacitors aren't real, most capacitors made by amplifier brands to buffer your power rails going into an amplifier usually aren't legitimate, typically they're just a board with a bunch of tiny no name branded cheap capacitors wired in parallel surrounded by a cheap can. I had a so-called 1 farad capacitor by lightning audio and it just had several capacitors wired in parallel on a tiny board, with a block of concrete on the bottom to make it seem like it was heavier than it actually was and it only added up to about a hundred thousand microfarads. That's also one of the reasons why most people who use power capacitors for subwoofer amplifiers always say they don't really do much because they're not really what they are advertised and they are being ripped off. If you want to get a real one farad capacitor, go to Mouser Electronics, find a screw type capacitor, make sure it's at least 16 - 25 volts, use nichicons nt or lnr series as an example, both are fantastic. it won't be cheap but you get what you pay for, you'd actually be getting a real 1 farad capacitor from a well-established brand and a well-known component distributor. This is a REAL 1 Farad capacitor, it's worth the 172 bucks! 647-LNR1C105MSE www.mouser.com/access/?pn=647-LNR1C105MSE&sn=647-LNR1C105MSE&LNR1C105MSE&Nichicon I also highly recommend you get 470 ohm 3 or 5 watt resistor and have that attached to the negative terminal when you first power up the capacitor the resistor is going to get incredibly hot, however it's necessary to have a resistor at on it at first to limit the capacitors inRushCurrent, it'll draw so much current that it's almost like a dead short. it would put a considerable strain on your alternator and battery if you don't put a resistor before it you'll likely get a spark from one of its terminals once you touch it because it'll be sucking so much power. leave the resistor attached for 5 or 10 mins before hooking it up to the system directly. Also don't forget to observe proper polarity, make sure the positive goes to the positive and the negative goes to the negative, otherwise you can damage the capacitor.
@@analogaudiorules1724 yeah i know those 1 farad capacitors are a joke for storage but ive seen a video of a guy showing that they help eliminate engine noise. i use a bank of maxwell super caps with a 120ah agm in the trunk for storage. its a bit of an overkill for 1500w but it keeps my voltage up to the mids 13s. my car limits my voltage to 13.8v instead of the traditional 14.4v, its something to do with gas efficiency
What ur crossovers set at
Ay basshead parker !! Fist off the deafbounce
Mids sound great an i think there are my next
Mids., secondly the ground on the alt could have been some of that problem. Should have grounded to the block( engine) . third,
Running the ground all
The way back work great.....never ground anything by a electric motor. You will pick up
Interference.( blower motor)
I’m guessing you don’t have to worry about neighbors at the new house. I’m happy with sky high rca’s
That app looks almost identical to my deaf bonce 500.4
Hey did u get the noise sorted out completely
Hey Parker would be a good setup for 2 12s for an extended cab I have 2 nemisis audio 12s on 1 k amp but want something that will flex the windshield and wipers mine rattles the truck decent but want more damage lol and want something that plays low and hits hard any suggestions and don’t want to pay 500$ a sub wanna go with 2 12s on maybe like a 6 k cause want to keep stock alternator and no additional battery’s truck has 2 battery anyway
I know this don't have anything to do with this video but if you had a choice between american bass elite or audiopipe bdc4 which would you go with
American Bass
@@chadwargo5798 thanks that's what I figured
not a fan of that short power cable, looking like it is kinked. or is that the heat shrink.
I'm from GA we need to get together and do a video im currently building a big 2 12 set up. Im like 1.5 hours away from Asheville
Nice amp
why not go with Class A/B amplifiers for SQ? or why do people also use Class D for mids/highs; eventho it lacks quality IMO ?
I have this same exact amp an I’m having that problem.. by running the wire really stop the noise? Need to know for sure
Yes it stopped 95% of it!
Ok bro I’ll try it tmrw
@@ParkerTheBasshead didn’t work bro...
Those rcas are what I always used, cost wise they’re the best and as far as shielding.
Where can I get those rca
@@bigchief1658 I get mine on eBay straight from Knukonceptz.
@@bigchief1658 it’s their Krystal model.
Best cables EVER have them running im both cars. ZERO noise at ALL! ....Krystal cables THE BEST!
The whisling noise can be stopped completely by fixing the ground resistor inside on the headunit's circuit board, its a regular problem found in audio systems
What resistor where is it located on the board?
@@jarredri its usually located close to the rca outputs... i recomend you consult someone does repairs... if it isnt done properly it can mess up the head unit
U shouldnt have to run that ground all the way to the amp. Just ground that wire on the rca in the headunit to the frame. Worked for me. If you have to u can do the same at the amp
did u ck ur grounds on that alt had same issue
Sundowns expensive. Any recommendations on what the best quality 4 channel budget amp might be?
DS18 offers some amazing amps for impeccable prices for budget builds!!!
Skar. Watch budget gem or budget bust he reviews a bunch of amps. So does bigD wiz. There are a ton of budget amps out there it really comes down to your application as to which features you need.
How do you like that amp so far I’m running 8 speakers I wanna do 500.4 or 1000.4 sfb
Been great so far!
You should get the sundown audio salt 12k bad ass amp
NICE BRO!!!
Hole sheat thas Fing Cool dude😎
Anyone looking to get their hands on a sundown sfb 1000.4 ?. I got a like new sfb 1000.4 seating in my room for a good deal. I'm in Lanham Maryland.
I would isolate grounds, recheck for contact and give all hardware their own separate ground locations.
"Rf ground loop isolator"it connects to the RCA's and it knocks out the distortion you're picking up the electrical interference of the vehicle
Didn't work for me. I still get buzzing or whining and I bought new pioneer deck and I still have it. Only th ing i can think of is a ground loop to my seat frame where its connected at
Also I only get buzz when running dual amps set ups
A "rf gound loop isolator" is cylindrical and look like a "D" size battery with male rca plugs on one end and female on the other it goes inbetween the radio and the amplifiers good rca's are shielded but some cars have it and that was always the solution good luck happy bumpin
Rca ground loop isolator search that on amazon
It also knocks out the thumping that some systems will have when you change the radio station or when you turn it on and off your hear loud thumps go into the subwoofers it knocks out the winding from the engine and that bass thumping feedback
Should just build nasty doors
Biggest improvement on mine was adding 10 6.5s , 2 - 10 inch neos , 8 tweeters , just need to get horns
Makes everything so much better
Try grounding the RCAs to the head unit.
Correct!!