I ran this setup a couple months ago and worked perfectly fine. Sometimes when you use your brains it all works out. Can’t be lazy with or without the money, good video.
I LOVE that I found this video, brings back memories. I installed backyard for a couple of years for a few buddies before I went pro in '99-ish, which was a whole other world with the enormous variety of cars and equipment, The head installer trained me and is my best friend to this day. My start day we had an Acura Integra he needed me to build a sub box for and we did speakers and the whole 9 yards. Anyway, THE POINT IS THIS is exactly the first trick he showed me (looping F + R w/ 4chan).thx
Yo, at first i thought you just combined the two channels, but actually no you keep both channels independent. That is pretty smart savings right there.
THANKS A MILLION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Solved my question on how to get my front and rear speakers hooked up to the amp and my subs,have to keep watching to make sure I got it right.
dude, this makes sooooo much sense i almost feel stupid for not looking at the signal paths . wow, ive wasted some $$ and time.... Never again!!! Big thanks
I think I understand the purpose of cutting the oem output wires completely from the head unit, basically the original front and rear loom becomes one big loop for front speaker to amp connection. By linking the rear to the front, you just extend the front speaker wiring to the rear where your amp is by turning the oem rear outputs into front inputs. And saves dismantling the front doors/ dash and kick panels etc. I see this working great for vehicles with two doors where the rear speakers are accessible but four door cars are still going to need some splicing under trim panels and carpets. You could make a bridge plug for the car side of the oem loom to do this in a reversible way rather than cutting the original plug off. Your idea saves a lot of time and effort running new wires though, doing it properly would mean unwrapping the loom, removing the oem wires, running new wire and tapping it all back up.
wow this is great. the only thing that confused me was when you were showing which wires were what. "gray and purples are your rear channel." so i thought you were splicing both rears together. but it finally clicked and i got it. the gray and purples are the right channel like you said at the end. this is great. thanks!!!
you could really explain this a little better, people don't seem to grasp initially that the head unit is being completely disconnected from the original car loom, new head unit outs (front+rear) need to be wired to the amp (either rca or head unit speaker outs), then you run a new feed to the rear speakers directly from the amps rear outputs, you then connect the amps front channel outputs to the factory rear speaker wires turning them into outputs those get bridged to the factory front wires behind the head unit by looping them together f/l to /rl + f/r to r/r. you could make a plug or adaptor loom to do the jumper job rather than cutting the factory wires so that the original sound system can be easily reconnected by just disconnecting the amps wiring from the head unit and plugging the original speaker loom back in to the head unit.
i have 2002 honda accord. speakers on rear deck. i installed my amp like in the video. good video. i have 1000 watts to 4 speakers, factory speakers handling it so far, lol.
What he's saying is simple for the people who don't understand its this... Your two rear speakers in the back of the car are connected to the cars factory wires... What you do is disconnect the rear speaker wires , so now let's use the left speaker for example. The left speaker side now has four wires loose, you have the (+) and (-) wires hanging from your speaker, and a positive and negative wire that were connected to your speakers (depending on if you either cut the factory clip off or have the female connector.... It took me a while to figure out, but then I realized when I connected my new rear speakers, I had to splice four wires on each speaker, making a total of eight wires in the rear...
Your videos are fn awesome. All the knowledge is very appreciated. I watched your video on how to build a custom amp rack for your trunk and I made 2 of them. One for my 4ch and one for my sub amp. They turned out great and Ill send you a pic of what they look like after I wrap them with fabric. Thx again.
mycell1982 I did what you your doing is connecting your wiring harness wires together front left to rear left the front right to rear right so when you take you wires that are in your trunk factory rear speaker wires and connect them to your amp you are making them the run for your front speakers so you don't have to run a new set to the front and you will plugs these into the front channel on the amp then you can use brand new wire and save time and money and just run 2 new wires to your rear speakers
You still have to run new rca or high level outs from the head unit to the amp, but you don't have to mess around rewiring the front doors which usually run behind the dash and are tapped up with the main loom.
excellent way to make an easily reversible custom sound install, so long as you keep the rear speaker plugs intact and don't destroy the head unit plug on the car side you can just un bridge the wires and plug everything back in.
@@frankfarrester9178 You're saying to use the old rear wires and make them the for the front speakers, BUT then still run a set of new wires for the rear?
Frank Farrester now am i supposed to connect the (R+) F to (R+) R leads together from the factory harness over to the after market wires? Or am I connecting (R)F to (R) R both on factory side of harness
The pac interfae usually does all the work digitally for you, I am assuming you have a later model GM? I only recommend using this if youre not utulizing any factory amp. (or just plain old bypassing it).
I've been doing this for a while. I figured it out back in 1992 while working as an installer. I honestly thought there would be more people than just myself who have figured this out. Unfortunately your the only one so far, that I've seen do this besides me. It's nice to see someone else getting oxygen to their brain once in a while.
Hi, I'm trying to add an amplifier to my existing factory 4-speaker system and I don't want to put new speaker wires and glad to see this video. Regarding the harness, is there a particular harness I need to buy for my Honda Civic 2009? Appreciate very much your help. Just so you know, I learn a lot of DIY and other info from subscribing your video channel. Keep it up!
Nice vid! Sorry to comment on an older video but I have a 4 channel amp I’m using for a boat. Should I be running all four speaker wires into the amp or should I be trying to do something like this. Newb question but if I tie two wires together and run two channels in my 4 channel amp, are my speakers getting less power than if they had a wire for each of them? Speakers are 4 ohm
@@Lesscoelectronics Thanks! Also have a question about wiring the AMPs + and - on a boat. The only way I was able to get them from in the cabin to the battery was to hang them over the AC unit which obviously creates some condensation inside a small compartment. Both wires are 4 gauge and the + wire is wrapped in wire loom. Will they be okay or do I need to put the wires in something else or wire them elsewhere?
Can you replace factory stereo and add small 4 channel amp without replacing factory wiring to speakers. I was told as long as you go from factory wiring harness to amp it is possible. Please advise
So for the output from factory to input to amp, do I use a 4 channel LOC and wire them individually? Or 2 channel LOC and wire them how he did in video and just use a low input connecter(RCA) y splitter to the amp input ?
I need you to please explain and also show how you actually do it to speakers on a car please that would make life much easier for me :) awesome video!
Lessco Electronics, Quick question. The connector end of the wiring harness your showing..... does that plug in plug directly into the stereo or does the connector from the stereo plug into that harness? I guess I'm asking if you do the jump before you plug it into the factory harness?
the stereo gets disconnected completely from the original car loom and instead you run wires from the head unit directly to the amplifier, this is the major info that is missing from the how to (you sort of figure it out as he goes along but yeah) this trick saves time rerouting wiring from the amp to the front speakers by recycling the original speaker loom turning it from front + rear out from the head unit into front out only from the amp. so you end up with power ground and remote to the amp as well as the new inputs (rca / high level from head unit) going to the amp and four shorter runs from the amp going to the original rear speaker location , two for rear two for front. it would be a little more involved if the car had four door speakers rather than front door and rear shelf speakers as you would then have to strip more or the carto get to the rear speaker wires and possibly have to run some slightly longer runs. the biggest benefit i can see besides labour and material saving is the possibility of making an easily reversible amp install that has the factory loom intact, all you do is wire up an adaptor plug rather than cutting the factory loom.
Thanks, Much! Clear/concise/No loud music blaring in back of you... VERY easy to comprehend. I've got an 87 4Runner... Just installed a modest Pioneer BT7300U...I'm running it to 2- 4" blaupunkt's up front and 2- 6x9" Pioneer 4ways in the back seat area. Someone just gave me a 4channel Amp, 2 Channel Amp and a 10" JL Sub in a Box.... Obviously gonna have to run off the Sub wire up front..would this trick be fine for me for the fronts? (I ask cuz it's a Toyota, hahaha)... Thanks again, Lesco
this jump trick works and i do it in every install to save time and a little bit of money so you don't have to buy more wire nice vid but showing the way to do it is better than explaining it cuz some ppl have half a brain and need to see it to get it but good vid. BTW Honda and Toyota's are not a joke remember they didn't go bankrupt like Chrysler did
YES! that matters cause if you tune the front and rear differently at the amp and also in the radio the sound will be all messed up. They should be correct, Not to mention your fader and balance will be all wacky. Take the time and get them straightened out.
great vid mate ....help ??? I have a rangerover that has a mono High level output for the rear stock sub woofer that I'm using for my amp spliced to 2 channel for my high level input on the amp my question is can I splice again to run into a 4 channel amplifier instead of just a 2 channel amp
This is only for a very low power setup right? You would have all the amplifier power being pushed through 2 rather than equally through 4 to the front
You can still do this, take the audio out from the stock radio for the converters, split them as needed for your 6 channels of rca's and run the amps outputs to the car side speaker wires and youre good
Great idea for newbies, but instead of talking so much , put a chart up, get to the point much quicker, keep your Honda comments to a minimal...awesome idea and for posting a video about it... good job
So my question is... If u have a sub amp already installed... But adding another amp to your door speakers...u don't have to run speaker wire to your 4 channel amp...u just change it in the back of radio... Is that correct
the loom on the head unit side is no longer connected to the loom on the speaker side at all, you should run the line out converters directly to the amp, the rear outs from the amp to the rear speakers, the old rear speaker wires are just going to be recycled as inputs for the fronts by bridging the original disconnected speaker loom behind the head unit and connecting old rear speaker end loom to the front output on the amp.
I get what you are saying. That will not affect the head unit by sending an amplified signal through the head unit. I figured you would take the wire that goes to green/purple and disconnect it then disconnect the wire going to either the white/grey and then connect the wire that went to green/purple to the one that went to white/grey so it doesnt get sent back through H/U or does it just not affect it?
Lessco Electronics Will this trick work if I was to install a crossover for my mids and tweeters/highs? Or by doing this will eliminate me to install the crossover? I bought a set of components that came with the crossovers and tweeters and I want to install them, but I'm not sure if this trick will work or if I'm better off just running new speaker wires from the input of the crossover which is going to be on the front doors, all the way to the back/trunk where my amp is gonna be, eliminating using the factory wires. Sorry for all the questions, I would appreciate your advice.
This is not directly related,but I have a question that needs clarification,,any help will be appreciated. I have a pioneer 6500f(4 channel,60*4wrms @ 4 ohms)amplifier,and also a pioneer 310d4(400wrms,dual 4 ohms)woofer. I want to get the most power out of it,is it safe to bridge each voice coil as it is 4 ohms stable when brigded(the amp) inorder to get 360wrms,as the amp is 180wrms*2@ 4 ohms,when you bridge 2 channels,,so it safe to bridge all 4 channels using a 4 ohm dual voice coil sub?
I have a question i love the vids man, very informative, i have a 99 chrysler concorde with infinity fact. amp, i have an alpine cda-9886 i just need ur opinion on that.specific unit man, thanks.once.again
Hello, I'm still looking for an answer to my question. I want to add a component system to my 2003 Ford Crown Victoria, and I would like to power them with a 4 chabnel memphis amp. Is it ok for me to connect my tweeter, to my door speakers? What would be the easiest course?
my Kenwood kvt 514 head unit cuts off when I play to loud after maybe 10 mins. (everything is tight and secure and connected good) the amp on the radio is really hot when it does that. I can do this (with a loc) and use a 2 channel amp to solve that problem. am I right. let me know if I'm wrong and please give advice to fix this issue. my car is a 98 town car
What do you recommend in my situation, I have a stereo with 1 rca output I want to hook up a epicenter with 2 amps 1 for sub and a 4 channel. How would I wire up my rca cables? I was thinking to hook up the rca from the stereo to the epicenter then epicenter to sub amp input like normal. Then rca from sub amp output to 4 channel input?
quick question ,if i connect those wires behind the stereo what cable do i have to run to amp ? or can i run rcas and cut the end that does goes into the stereo and connect them to the speaker wires ?
im not sure if the cheat would work for me because im using speaker input and no rca. so my rear outputs from the head unit would need to go to the speaker level input on the amp.
what he is doing is using the stock rear speaker wires that run through your vehicle to where the rear speakers used to be, connecting those to the Front channel of the amp, then connecting the rear speaker wires those to the front speaker wires that run to your stock front speaker location and using the wires that are run through your vehicle to power your front speakers. this saves time as he no longer needs to run speaker wire to the front speakers from the rear of the vehicle
Hey just wondering if u could give me some tips I have a Kenwood KAC-M1804 400W amp and hooked it up but sends my head unit to protect mode any ideas of y it might be?
+lessco electronics I just did your wire setup in my car connected the rear speakers to the rear output of my car. I connected the positive terminal and negative of both rear input that are "dangling down" and connected it to my front output to my amp. now everything is hooked up to my amp. my car has the same exact color wires and location as you showed in your video I connected the grey front right and purple rear right positive together and negative. the left side I connected the white positive with the green and same with the negative .. I use to have a sub so my power and ground are good but when I turn the car over my amp shows I messed up somewhere since I don't get sound. did I do something wrong can you get into detail exactly what you did? what about the rca i have a 4 channel heafunit do i put the rear ro the rear and front to the front? I followed you and nothing. help!!!
What if I tapped into the wire harness behind the deck and crimped each speaker wire fronts and rears to a 9wire and ran the 9wire to the back. Should be go to go right?
no rca's at all here my friend... youre tying the fronts and rears behind the radio so its a short run from the amp in the trunk to grab the fronts (where the backs used to be) then run new rears and wala... dodne!
Would a 4 Channel Amp work to power 4 door speakers, 2 tweeters, and 2 8" factory subs? if not what kind of Amp would i be looking for? My car model is a 2006 Volvo S80 and my battery is in the back of the car :)
if you use three way cross overs and dual voice coil subs yeah, just run mids and tweets to your doors and left front and rear lows to one dvc sub and the right front and rear lows to the other dvc sub. front rear bias will still work on the doors but will make the dvc subs see different levels per voice coil. the other option is run higher impedence front and rear speakers in parrallel from the front channels and run two subs of normal impedance off the rear channels via low pass filters. for example if you have a 4 ohm amp you would use two 8 ohm two way component speaker sets for left front and another two for right front then use one 4 ohm sub off the left rear and one 4 ohm sub off the right rear. front rear - bias will then be doors - sub bias.
You are recycling the original speaker wires by turning the original looms rear outs into front inputs from the amp by bridging them behind the head unit (after disconnecting them from the head unit), you could make a plug for this to make the mod reversible. But you are still using new outputs from head unit to the amp and new (much shorter) runs from the amp to the rear.
Where do I connect my wires from the doors speakers to. After I wire the wires coming from my stereo like that. Thank you so much. PLEASE HELP. Because I have no sound after I did that trick myself. All I have is four sets of speaker wires hanging there. So I guess my question is where do I connect those wires to l. So I have sound coming from my door speakers.
yes, you are grabbing the rear speakers up front using this tip, and running new fronts a short distance behind the dash, so wala, front and rear, left and right respectively
Hey I have an 03 Lincoln ls with navigation ran the wires to all doors got power to the amp but it wouldn't make a sound I'm using a hi/lo impedance adapter which I wired from the left rear speaker any suggestions on what could possibly be wrong
quick question.. I have a 4 channel amp and i can bridge it to give it a total of 240rms watts on 2 channels my question is.. can i use one subwoofer and use the 2 channels of the same amp to give it a total of 480watts rms. meaning bridge it once... then on the other 'bridge' channel bridge it again to the same sub.
how much power do you think is too much for factory speaker wire? I'm going to install a 4 channel amp and new speakers in my charger, so I'm thinking your 300 has the same wiring and you would have some good input. Thanks.
I bought a 4 channel amp & an alpine radio. The radio has 2x outputs, left & right. While my amp has 4 inputs, front left & right + rear left & right. How am I supposed to connect that? Should I just put a splitter or something between the radio & amp?
@Alexo Yes sir, it means the stock watts your deck feeds to your door speakers.. isn’t enough anymore.. if your at high volumes with a sub and amp.. then yea fasho that’s the problem...
Is it possible to run 4 speakers parallel and 1 sub with this trick on one 4 channel Amp? Sorry, I'm new to this and I'm trying to avoid having to run as much wire as possible. Thanks!
you could, however it wont be optimal. Id add a mono amp to the sub abd use the proper low pass filter on it, and get independant control over the whole system, not just 1/2
I ran this setup a couple months ago and worked perfectly fine. Sometimes when you use your brains it all works out. Can’t be lazy with or without the money, good video.
Did you use 1 harness or 2
I LOVE that I found this video, brings back memories. I installed backyard for a couple of years for a few buddies before I went pro in '99-ish, which was a whole other world with the enormous variety of cars and equipment, The head installer trained me and is my best friend to this day. My start day we had an Acura Integra he needed me to build a sub box for and we did speakers and the whole 9 yards. Anyway, THE POINT IS THIS is exactly the first trick he showed me (looping F + R w/ 4chan).thx
Yo, at first i thought you just combined the two channels, but actually no you keep both channels independent. That is pretty smart savings right there.
why am i lost
THANKS A MILLION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Solved my question on how to get my front and rear speakers hooked up to the amp and my subs,have to keep watching to make sure I got it right.
aye how did you figure it out I followed him and did everything right and nothing no sound
dude, this makes sooooo much sense i almost feel stupid for not looking at the signal paths . wow, ive wasted some $$ and time.... Never again!!! Big thanks
I think I understand the purpose of cutting the oem output wires completely from the head unit, basically the original front and rear loom becomes one big loop for front speaker to amp connection.
By linking the rear to the front, you just extend the front speaker wiring to the rear where your amp is by turning the oem rear outputs into front inputs. And saves dismantling the front doors/ dash and kick panels etc.
I see this working great for vehicles with two doors where the rear speakers are accessible but four door cars are still going to need some splicing under trim panels and carpets.
You could make a bridge plug for the car side of the oem loom to do this in a reversible way rather than cutting the original plug off.
Your idea saves a lot of time and effort running new wires though, doing it properly would mean unwrapping the loom, removing the oem wires, running new wire and tapping it all back up.
Clever cheat, maybe a diagram would help some ppl. Thx for posting, saved me an extra job
wow this is great. the only thing that confused me was when you were showing which wires were what. "gray and purples are your rear channel." so i thought you were splicing both rears together. but it finally clicked and i got it. the gray and purples are the right channel like you said at the end. this is great. thanks!!!
you could really explain this a little better,
people don't seem to grasp initially that the head unit is being completely disconnected from the original car loom,
new head unit outs (front+rear) need to be wired to the amp (either rca or head unit speaker outs),
then you run a new feed to the rear speakers directly from the amps rear outputs,
you then connect the amps front channel outputs to the factory rear speaker wires turning them into outputs
those get bridged to the factory front wires behind the head unit by looping them together f/l to /rl + f/r to r/r.
you could make a plug or adaptor loom to do the jumper job rather than cutting the factory wires so that the original sound system can be easily reconnected by just disconnecting the amps wiring from the head unit and plugging the original speaker loom back in to the head unit.
i have 2002 honda accord. speakers on rear deck. i installed my amp like in the video. good video. i have 1000 watts to 4 speakers, factory speakers handling it so far, lol.
Hi! With this method i can connect front & rear speakers in series on a single chanell, to have a 8 ohms impedance and 4ohms at each speaker? Thanks
What he's saying is simple for the people who don't understand its this... Your two rear speakers in the back of the car are connected to the cars factory wires... What you do is disconnect the rear speaker wires , so now let's use the left speaker for example. The left speaker side now has four wires loose, you have the (+) and (-) wires hanging from your speaker, and a positive and negative wire that were connected to your speakers (depending on if you either cut the factory clip off or have the female connector.... It took me a while to figure out, but then I realized when I connected my new rear speakers, I had to splice four wires on each speaker, making a total of eight wires in the rear...
hooking to an amp would help me out but i think i got the point. Thanks there still arent any other videos on the subject.
Your videos are fn awesome. All the knowledge is very appreciated. I watched your video on how to build a custom amp rack for your trunk and I made 2 of them. One for my 4ch and one for my sub amp. They turned out great and Ill send you a pic of what they look like after I wrap them with fabric. Thx again.
Matthew Powell glad i helped man!💪
Did anyone else not understand any of this?
mycell1982 I did what you your doing is connecting your wiring harness wires together front left to rear left the front right to rear right so when you take you wires that are in your trunk factory rear speaker wires and connect them to your amp you are making them the run for your front speakers so you don't have to run a new set to the front and you will plugs these into the front channel on the amp then you can use brand new wire and save time and money and just run 2 new wires to your rear speakers
You still have to run new rca or high level outs from the head unit to the amp, but you don't have to mess around rewiring the front doors which usually run behind the dash and are tapped up with the main loom.
excellent way to make an easily reversible custom sound install, so long as you keep the rear speaker plugs intact and don't destroy the head unit plug on the car side you can just un bridge the wires and plug everything back in.
@@frankfarrester9178 You're saying to use the old rear wires and make them the for the front speakers, BUT then still run a set of new wires for the rear?
Frank Farrester now am i supposed to connect the (R+) F to (R+) R leads together from the factory harness over to the after market wires? Or am I connecting (R)F to (R) R both on factory side of harness
Awsome trick! Now I have the dedication to actually install a 4 channel!
The pac interfae usually does all the work digitally for you, I am assuming you have a later model GM? I only recommend using this if youre not utulizing any factory amp. (or just plain old bypassing it).
I've been doing this for a while. I figured it out back in 1992 while working as an installer. I honestly thought there would be more people than just myself who have figured this out. Unfortunately your the only one so far, that I've seen do this besides me. It's nice to see someone else getting oxygen to their brain once in a while.
"OLD SCHOOL" at its Finest
you can plug in an aftermarket metra harness adapter and tie the fronts to the rears without cutting anything at all
Hi, I'm trying to add an amplifier to my existing factory 4-speaker system and I don't want to put new speaker wires and glad to see this video. Regarding the harness, is there a particular harness I need to buy for my Honda Civic 2009? Appreciate very much your help. Just so you know, I learn a lot of DIY and other info from subscribing your video channel. Keep it up!
Wow thanks for the fast response!! Il go and take a look ASAP!
Dude to you its like whatever. But to me your a radio installation God. Thank you.
uhhhh that's genius! not like "rocket surgery" genius but ghetto fabrication genius!! Thank you for saving me time on my install.
Nice vid! Sorry to comment on an older video but I have a 4 channel amp I’m using for a boat. Should I be running all four speaker wires into the amp or should I be trying to do something like this. Newb question but if I tie two wires together and run two channels in my 4 channel amp, are my speakers getting less power than if they had a wire for each of them? Speakers are 4 ohm
if you have 4 channels, run all 4 channels
@@Lesscoelectronics Thanks! Also have a question about wiring the AMPs + and - on a boat. The only way I was able to get them from in the cabin to the battery was to hang them over the AC unit which obviously creates some condensation inside a small compartment. Both wires are 4 gauge and the + wire is wrapped in wire loom. Will they be okay or do I need to put the wires in something else or wire them elsewhere?
Can you replace factory stereo and add small 4 channel amp without replacing factory wiring to speakers. I was told as long as you go from factory wiring harness to amp it is possible. Please advise
So for the output from factory to input to amp, do I use a 4 channel LOC and wire them individually? Or 2 channel LOC and wire them how he did in video and just use a low input connecter(RCA) y splitter to the amp input ?
#2
I need you to please explain and also show how you actually do it to speakers on a car please that would make life much easier for me :) awesome video!
he just did. use your imagination.
dude your a freeken GENIUOS i would of never thought of that im installing 4 ch. on to factory 05cts stereo...ur dope bro.. lawnmowers lol!!!!
Lessco Electronics,
Quick question. The connector end of the wiring harness your showing..... does that plug in plug directly into the stereo or does the connector from the stereo plug into that harness?
I guess I'm asking if you do the jump before you plug it into the factory harness?
the stereo gets disconnected completely from the original car loom and instead you run wires from the head unit directly to the amplifier, this is the major info that is missing from the how to (you sort of figure it out as he goes along but yeah)
this trick saves time rerouting wiring from the amp to the front speakers by recycling the original speaker loom turning it from front + rear out from the head unit into front out only from the amp.
so you end up with power ground and remote to the amp as well as the new inputs (rca / high level from head unit) going to the amp and four shorter runs from the amp going to the original rear speaker location , two for rear two for front.
it would be a little more involved if the car had four door speakers rather than front door and rear shelf speakers as you would then have to strip more or the carto get to the rear speaker wires and possibly have to run some slightly longer runs.
the biggest benefit i can see besides labour and material saving is the possibility of making an easily reversible amp install that has the factory loom intact, all you do is wire up an adaptor plug rather than cutting the factory loom.
Thanks, Much! Clear/concise/No loud music blaring in back of you... VERY easy to comprehend. I've got an 87 4Runner... Just installed a modest Pioneer BT7300U...I'm running it to 2- 4" blaupunkt's up front and 2- 6x9" Pioneer 4ways in the back seat area. Someone just gave me a 4channel Amp, 2 Channel Amp and a 10" JL Sub in a Box.... Obviously gonna have to run off the Sub wire up front..would this trick be fine for me for the fronts? (I ask cuz it's a Toyota, hahaha)... Thanks again, Lesco
Damn man! Freaking brilliant! I'm so pissed I did not think about this years ago!!!
great tip but ,,, what about the rca cable?
this jump trick works and i do it in every install to save time and a little bit of money so you don't have to buy more wire nice vid but showing the way to do it is better than explaining it cuz some ppl have half a brain and need to see it to get it but good vid. BTW Honda and Toyota's are not a joke remember they didn't go bankrupt like Chrysler did
Damn... I've been installing for years... Didn't think about doing this...
YES! that matters cause if you tune the front and rear differently at the amp and also in the radio the sound will be all messed up. They should be correct, Not to mention your fader and balance will be all wacky. Take the time and get them straightened out.
is this a 2 channel radio diagram
great vid mate ....help ??? I have a rangerover that has a mono High level output for the rear stock sub woofer that I'm using for my amp spliced to 2 channel for my high level input on the amp my question is can I splice again to run into a 4 channel amplifier instead of just a 2 channel amp
This is only for a very low power setup right? You would have all the amplifier power being pushed through 2 rather than equally through 4 to the front
You can still do this, take the audio out from the stock radio for the converters, split them as needed for your 6 channels of rca's and run the amps outputs to the car side speaker wires and youre good
Great content thank you
Great idea for newbies, but instead of talking so much , put a chart up, get to the point much quicker, keep your Honda comments to a minimal...awesome idea and for posting a video about it... good job
I saw this video over 2 years ago and remembered to do this saved so much time
Thank you 🤝 most definitely doing this today 😎
im lost ,this works on a 4 channel amp
So my question is... If u have a sub amp already installed... But adding another amp to your door speakers...u don't have to run speaker wire to your 4 channel amp...u just change it in the back of radio... Is that correct
you should be using a 4 channel on 4 speakers and a seperate 2/1 channel for your sub. 1 channel per speaker
Sorry, I misunderstood the connection explanation. Now I got it . Thanks !!
Isn’t speed wire the best way now? One cord with all the wires inside
you are a genius man , i got your point i never think of that, thanks man!
if I'm using my factory head unit and a line output converter can I still use this trick? if so, how? great video thanks!
the loom on the head unit side is no longer connected to the loom on the speaker side at all, you should run the line out converters directly to the amp, the rear outs from the amp to the rear speakers,
the old rear speaker wires are just going to be recycled as inputs for the fronts by bridging the original disconnected speaker loom behind the head unit and connecting old rear speaker end loom to the front output on the amp.
I get what you are saying. That will not affect the head unit by sending an amplified signal through the head unit. I figured you would take the wire that goes to green/purple and disconnect it then disconnect the wire going to either the white/grey and then connect the wire that went to green/purple to the one that went to white/grey so it doesnt get sent back through H/U or does it just not affect it?
Tricks of the trade, good tip bro!!
Lessco Electronics Will this trick work if I was to install a crossover for my mids and tweeters/highs? Or by doing this will eliminate me to install the crossover? I bought a set of components that came with the crossovers and tweeters and I want to install them, but I'm not sure if this trick will work or if I'm better off just running new speaker wires from the input of the crossover which is going to be on the front doors, all the way to the back/trunk where my amp is gonna be, eliminating using the factory wires. Sorry for all the questions, I would appreciate your advice.
this isn't effective when youre adding crossovers.
Thank you, you saved me time and money.
Thats a winner, I have no bad things to say about it
This is not directly related,but I have a question that needs clarification,,any help will be appreciated.
I have a pioneer 6500f(4 channel,60*4wrms @ 4 ohms)amplifier,and also a pioneer 310d4(400wrms,dual 4 ohms)woofer.
I want to get the most power out of it,is it safe to bridge each voice coil as it is 4 ohms stable when brigded(the amp) inorder to get 360wrms,as the amp is 180wrms*2@ 4 ohms,when you bridge 2 channels,,so it safe to bridge all 4 channels using a 4 ohm dual voice coil sub?
what if your car has a factory amp can you still do that
I have a question i love the vids man, very informative, i have a 99 chrysler concorde with infinity fact. amp, i have an alpine cda-9886 i just need ur opinion on that.specific unit man, thanks.once.again
Hello, I'm still looking for an answer to my question. I want to add a component system to my 2003 Ford Crown Victoria, and I would like to power them with a 4 chabnel memphis amp. Is it ok for me to connect my tweeter, to my door speakers? What would be the easiest course?
Very nice video. Thank you for sharing.
i noticed you mentioned base model would this work for bose,? 08 chev imp
also what if i wanted to bridge the two fronts thumbs up btw
my Kenwood kvt 514 head unit cuts off when I play to loud after maybe 10 mins. (everything is tight and secure and connected good) the amp on the radio is really hot when it does that. I can do this (with a loc) and use a 2 channel amp to solve that problem. am I right. let me know if I'm wrong and please give advice to fix this issue. my car is a 98 town car
Smooth move !!! I get it!!!! I'm going to do this to night
Thank you man that is super useful information!
VERY GOOD INFORMATION, THANKS
OHHH ok so I'm just using new rear wires for rear and stock rear wires to the front
What do you recommend in my situation, I have a stereo with 1 rca output I want to hook up a epicenter with 2 amps 1 for sub and a 4 channel. How would I wire up my rca cables? I was thinking to hook up the rca from the stereo to the epicenter then epicenter to sub amp input like normal. Then rca from sub amp output to 4 channel input?
What subs and amps? How did it work out for you?
@@ABONE1 I just bought a receiver with three rca outputs
So then you still have to run wire to the front where the old rear wires are hanging?
So when you are connecting the factory harness and the head unit harness how do you wire the two together?
This is great I thought it would work for me but unfortunately it doesn't as I have a factory amp hidden in the car somewhere.
WHY IS THIS SO GENIUS
quick question ,if i connect those wires behind the stereo what cable do i have to run to amp ? or can i run rcas and cut the end that does goes into the stereo and connect them to the speaker wires ?
im not sure if the cheat would work for me because im using speaker input and no rca. so my rear outputs from the head unit would need to go to the speaker level input on the amp.
I did that prior because I had the LC2i but found out afterwards that I got the wrong loc. So I ended up buying the aftermarket stereo.
THIS SMART GUY MAKES ALLOT GOOD VIDEOS THANK U BRO !!
what he is doing is using the stock rear speaker wires that run through your vehicle to where the rear speakers used to be, connecting those to the Front channel of the amp, then connecting the rear speaker wires those to the front speaker wires that run to your stock front speaker location and using the wires that are run through your vehicle to power your front speakers. this saves time as he no longer needs to run speaker wire to the front speakers from the rear of the vehicle
he just needs to run another short length from the front outs of the amp to the old rear speaker wires.
Took me a bit of thinking but I got it.awsome tip
Hey just wondering if u could give me some tips I have a Kenwood KAC-M1804 400W amp and hooked it up but sends my head unit to protect mode any ideas of y it might be?
+lessco electronics I just did your wire setup in my car connected the rear speakers to the rear output of my car. I connected the positive terminal and negative of both rear input that are "dangling down" and connected it to my front output to my amp. now everything is hooked up to my amp. my car has the same exact color wires and location as you showed in your video I connected the grey front right and purple rear right positive together and negative. the left side I connected the white positive with the green and same with the negative .. I use to have a sub so my power and ground are good but when I turn the car over my amp shows I messed up somewhere since I don't get sound. did I do something wrong can you get into detail exactly what you did? what about the rca i have a 4 channel heafunit do i put the rear ro the rear and front to the front? I followed you and nothing. help!!!
What if I tapped into the wire harness behind the deck and crimped each speaker wire fronts and rears to a 9wire and ran the 9wire to the back. Should be go to go right?
uh huh
When I wire the wires on my harness together do I add the car harness specker wires as well? Or is it now going thru rca ?
no rca's at all here my friend... youre tying the fronts and rears behind the radio so its a short run from the amp in the trunk to grab the fronts (where the backs used to be) then run new rears and wala... dodne!
can you do a video on a ground lug? like the ones that come with the JL Audio amp wiring kit?
Would a 4 Channel Amp work to power 4 door speakers, 2 tweeters, and 2 8" factory subs?
if not what kind of Amp would i be looking for?
My car model is a 2006 Volvo S80 and my battery is in the back of the car :)
if you use three way cross overs and dual voice coil subs yeah, just run mids and tweets to your doors and left front and rear lows to one dvc sub and the right front and rear lows to the other dvc sub.
front rear bias will still work on the doors but will make the dvc subs see different levels per voice coil.
the other option is run higher impedence front and rear speakers in parrallel from the front channels and run two subs of normal impedance off the rear channels via low pass filters.
for example if you have a 4 ohm amp you would use two 8 ohm two way component speaker sets for left front and another two for right front then use one 4 ohm sub off the left rear and one 4 ohm sub off the right rear.
front rear - bias will then be doors - sub bias.
And I thought I knew it all, lol. Great tip!
Thank you (46 year old man wondering wtf am i 19 again or just wishing)
Wont that lower the impedance if you have 4ohm speakers down to 2ohms per channel?
what do you mean when you say factory side? do you do this to both your aftermarket harness and the headunit harness, then connect them?
Yes, you are connecting the fronts and rears together behind the dash. does that make sense?
You are recycling the original speaker wires by turning the original looms rear outs into front inputs from the amp by bridging them behind the head unit (after disconnecting them from the head unit), you could make a plug for this to make the mod reversible.
But you are still using new outputs from head unit to the amp and new (much shorter) runs from the amp to the rear.
Where do I connect my wires from the doors speakers to. After I wire the wires coming from my stereo like that. Thank you so much. PLEASE HELP. Because I have no sound after I did that trick myself. All I have is four sets of speaker wires hanging there. So I guess my question is where do I connect those wires to l. So I have sound coming from my door speakers.
whats the year make and model?
@@Lesscoelectronics 2001 acura tl so how do I hook up the four door speakers. With front to rear jump.
With the wires"paired"like that is the fader function going to work?
yes, you are grabbing the rear speakers up front using this tip, and running new fronts a short distance behind the dash, so wala, front and rear, left and right respectively
@@Lesscoelectronics 4 channel amp , speaker level connection wired
Hey I have an 03 Lincoln ls with navigation ran the wires to all doors got power to the amp but it wouldn't make a sound I'm using a hi/lo impedance adapter which I wired from the left rear speaker any suggestions on what could possibly be wrong
I wish I would have known this like 2 years ago
Thanks for sharing this 🙌
No problem 😊
quick question.. I have a 4 channel amp and i can bridge it to give it a total of 240rms watts on 2 channels my question is.. can i use one subwoofer and use the 2 channels of the same amp to give it a total of 480watts rms. meaning bridge it once... then on the other 'bridge' channel bridge it again to the same sub.
if you bridge it youll have 2 channels to work with, you cant bridge it 2x if thats what youre asking me. (I hope Im understanding you!)
I understand this fully!!!
how much power do you think is too much for factory speaker wire? I'm going to install a 4 channel amp and new speakers in my charger, so I'm thinking your 300 has the same wiring and you would have some good input. Thanks.
horayforjoe I'd say appx 30w rms per channel give or take
Lessco Electronics Thank you. I also appreciate the quick reply.
Nice job Man U great and smart too
I bought a 4 channel amp & an alpine radio. The radio has 2x outputs, left & right. While my amp has 4 inputs, front left & right + rear left & right. How am I supposed to connect that? Should I just put a splitter or something between the radio & amp?
If my head unit that's powering my highs, is causing distortion in my door speakers, will an amp fix that issue?
@Alexo Yes sir, it means the stock watts your deck feeds to your door speakers.. isn’t enough anymore.. if your at high volumes with a sub and amp.. then yea fasho that’s the problem...
Is it possible to run 4 speakers parallel and 1 sub with this trick on one 4 channel Amp? Sorry, I'm new to this and I'm trying to avoid having to run as much wire as possible. Thanks!
you could, however it wont be optimal. Id add a mono amp to the sub abd use the proper low pass filter on it, and get independant control over the whole system, not just 1/2
Thanks for the response! Really appreciate it.
93Akkord
True, but chrysler dont make any lawnmowers either
it will work with sub if you have a 5 channel amp right?
wire the sub up as normal
so do I put both of my channels to high pass