I had a question, i need to bleed a master cylinder but its on the car, i bench bleed it when it was out of the car car but apparently it still has air in it,this is not my first rodeo so im kinda stumped about whats going on, this master cylinder is a little unusual,it has your 2 normal ports but it also has a bottom port that goes to the driver side front wheel only, if i decided to do the plug method he first shows in this video, could i leave the bottom port hooked up as it is, to the front driver side caliper ? that line is buried under the master and i would prefer not to deal with it. When i bled the wheels the front ones are great, solid fluid coming out,the back ones 2 but they just dont seem to have a lot of pressure,my problem is the following, the car stops fine but the pedal is way long,i did also install a a booster and i have a tool to measure depth and i did that and left 20 thousands as a air gap,i dont think the problem is the rod but air in the system, sorry for the long post, thank you for any input you might have!
@@riotautorepair9662 But why not show complete fluid occupation of the space? It’s fundamental to the process. No air should be in any of the circuits; the entire point of the extra process is to ‘prove’ visually you have complete evacuation of air. The other way is a damn good guess with corroborating evidence.
So I'm kind of leaning towards doing the 1st method because the 2nd method takes a really long time (i've done it before). So, after you install it on the booster but before you hook up the brakes lines, how do you minimize getting air into the MC again? Do you install the cover and press the brake pedal while hooking up the brake lines? I know you have to bleed all the lines going to the calipers but getting all the air out of the MC seems to be the hard part.
Yeah, every video I've watched so far conveniently leaves out all that information. What's the purpose of showing you how to bench fill the master cylinder then skip showing anybody how to put one on afterwards.
First, use the hoses and do it correctly. You will always introduce some air just because you disconnect / reconnect the lines..So yes you should bleed the entire system when finished..
Bro I had to bench bleed it the first way today and I thought I was doing it wrong so I said fuck it and put it on I'll try bleeding it on the vehicle, but now watching this vid I actually did it right by accident thought I was making a mess for no reason and tripped out thought it was wrong and got pissed 🤘🏼 I'm pro af lol
The problem with step two is getting the damn fittings, the kits have only one type of fitting, but the MC has two ports, how ridiculous. I think step one is your best go.
Yea that’s a crock of shit, dude man still had air in the lines on the second version...perfect example of why I work on my truck myself, can’t trust someone else to get the job done right anymore these days
Hopefully this keeps air out of lines and you avoid pumping bubbles the length of the car. It's good to flush lines of burned old fluid but you waste a lot of fluid pumping to fill the cylinder and get bubbles out the back.
The plugs remain in outlets while you are installing master on car. Then you can “test” it on the car by starting it up and pushing down on brake pedal (if using brass plugs). If you feel a good hard pedal, remove plugs and install brake lines. Now you may have to bleed entire system in the proper sequence.
What a sloppy job. First you put gloves on. And for the second method you let the hoses fill and then you submerge them in the fluid. Otherwise your stroke will never be able to push the air out because the air will have to travel too long. The shorter the hoses the better.
Well so does mine. So there are more than one place that can be a problem. Master first. ABS second. The rear brakes drum brakes with shoes. They are very difficult and people leave them for years. If they are worn down or installed wrong. Mine are installed with the shoes wrong. Air in the wheel cylinder or lines. Air in the front calipers. So bleed the lines back to front. Also it can be a bad master.
I used method 1. I cycled to piston until I seen no more bubbles. Although there was a lot of resistance, I never got to the point where I was unable to move the piston. Did I do this correctly?
I watched the video again and the piston was still going in. So that tells me the first method did not get all the air out. Show me proof next time and do the second method after the first.
I did my master cylinder like this but when I continue pushing I didn't get any resistance it just kept pushing in the fluid just kept coming up is it ready or not thank you
@@jw200 I already bought the tool months ago. It makes it easier to prevent pushing the piston too far...which is what I ended up doing before i got the plunger.
If you agitate the fluid too much, it airates the fluid, and then you will have a small amount of air left in the bore! slower is faster, and better.
Totally agree. This guy pushed the piston far too fast and even ended the video with air still coming out of the MC into the clear tubes.
I had a question, i need to bleed a master cylinder but its on the car, i bench bleed it when it was out of the car car but apparently it still has air in it,this is not my first rodeo so im kinda stumped about whats going on, this master cylinder is a little unusual,it has your 2 normal ports but it also has a bottom port that goes to the driver side front wheel only, if i decided to do the plug method he first shows in this video, could i leave the bottom port hooked up as it is, to the front driver side caliper ? that line is buried under the master and i would prefer not to deal with it.
When i bled the wheels the front ones are great, solid fluid coming out,the back ones 2 but they just dont seem to have a lot of pressure,my problem is the following, the car stops fine but the pedal is way long,i did also install a a booster and i have a tool to measure depth and i did that and left 20 thousands as a air gap,i dont think the problem is the rod but air in the system, sorry for the long post, thank you for any input you might have!
Method 1 worked for me. Thanks.
Where do i get those plugs for the ports in the 1st method?
Napa or advance auto parts
Moscow 🤣
The second one he did was not ready. You should have solid fluid in both lines.
truelyyy!
Not enough fluid, it looked like the tube for the front brakes was not in the reservoir enough.
I think it was more for the purpose of an example of what to do over actually completing the job
@@riotautorepair9662
But why not show complete fluid occupation of the space?
It’s fundamental to the process. No air should be in any of the circuits; the entire point of the extra process is to ‘prove’ visually you have complete evacuation of air. The other way is a damn good guess with corroborating evidence.
Not enough brake fluid in the 2nd method to keep bleeding.
So I'm kind of leaning towards doing the 1st method because the 2nd method takes a really long time (i've done it before). So, after you install it on the booster but before you hook up the brakes lines, how do you minimize getting air into the MC again? Do you install the cover and press the brake pedal while hooking up the brake lines? I know you have to bleed all the lines going to the calipers but getting all the air out of the MC seems to be the hard part.
no.
Yeah, every video I've watched so far conveniently leaves out all that information. What's the purpose of showing you how to bench fill the master cylinder then skip showing anybody how to put one on afterwards.
First, use the hoses and do it correctly. You will always introduce some air just because you disconnect / reconnect the lines..So yes you should bleed the entire system when finished..
The second method isn't complete at all. He needs to slow way down and keep going.
ok so he did that wrong. pump slowly to avoid aerating the fluid!!! sometimes very short strokes work better.
That's what she said.
Lmmfao!
Yeah, but if you do it fast you'll get done quicker.
Bro I had to bench bleed it the first way today and I thought I was doing it wrong so I said fuck it and put it on I'll try bleeding it on the vehicle, but now watching this vid I actually did it right by accident thought I was making a mess for no reason and tripped out thought it was wrong and got pissed 🤘🏼 I'm pro af lol
The problem with step two is getting the damn fittings, the kits have only one type of fitting, but the MC has two ports, how ridiculous. I think step one is your best go.
I don't see how far u have to push in and out, u need a bigger camera!
Don’t buy Napa remanufactured brake cylinders. They don’t work out of the box even with a proper bench bleed.
When doing this is it normal for the MC to introduce new air if the Piston is pushed in too rapidly?
Tapping on the outside of the cylinder frees up stuck air bubbles,same with brake lines.
@WorldRenownedCFE I can see the bubbles bleeding up out of the master cylinder that weren't there before tapping.
Do you sale the Upgrade Master Cilinder For A 97 chevy pick up 5.7 4x4
Yea that’s a crock of shit, dude man still had air in the lines on the second version...perfect example of why I work on my truck myself, can’t trust someone else to get the job done right anymore these days
The first one was worse.
After I bled all air bubbles out, I can still push cylinder. Fluid rises in rear reservoir.
Is this normal?
I like the first method better.
We all do,lol, 2 plugs, no mess, done
Ant body know the correct of the tool he use to stroke the master cylinder piston?
Master Cylinder Bleeder Tool, NAPA part# UP BSE150
Is the pressure the same on both line outs?
I know your question is old, but it would depend on the system I supose. Especially front disc/rear drum.
GM's quick take up calipers and stepped master cylinders are dangerous. Still, great video for how to bleed a master,
is this the same as loosening the brake lines connected to the mc and having someone pump it?
Hopefully this keeps air out of lines and you avoid pumping bubbles the length of the car.
It's good to flush lines of burned old fluid but you waste a lot of fluid pumping to fill the cylinder and get bubbles out the back.
Thanks
When you have finished the bench bleed, what keeps air from coming back in through the outflow holes?
The plugs remain in outlets while you are installing master on car. Then you can “test” it on the car by starting it up and pushing down on brake pedal (if using brass plugs). If you feel a good hard pedal, remove plugs and install brake lines. Now you may have to bleed entire system in the proper sequence.
the pressure from the fluid up top keeps the air out...if the fluid dropped completely out it would put air back in.
NAPA knows how !!!
this work for a step bore??
where do you get those screw in plugs from?
Or buy a master bleeding kit. It comes with nipples of all sizes, end caps and tubing for like $10. Typically available at any auto store.
Cool Name Not true , alot of master cylinders come with rubber plugs that don't thread in
Of ebay. Buy the one in steal not plastic. You can ruse them .
@keep_m_running
I noticed you didn't bleed the back port. I assume you don't have to bleed that port
What did I just watch
Why would you need to have the tube ends under the fluid in the tank....when you are trying to remove air in one direction ?
the air will be removed in the tank(hence the bubbles in the tank)
When the air is all out, fluid will come out the tubes and suck fluid back in to the bore from the bleeder tubes
Because after pushin when you release it suck air back in.
Interesting. Seems easy enough but I can't get mine to gravity bleed
What a sloppy job. First you put gloves on. And for the second method you let the hoses fill and then you submerge them in the fluid. Otherwise your stroke will never be able to push the air out because the air will have to travel too long. The shorter the hoses the better.
Yeah a shorter hose but it has to make it to the top. So how about a smaller size after the first inch of bigger hose?
I did everything right , whrn I turn on the car the brake pedal feels really soft , tske goes all the way to the floor ?
Well so does mine. So there are more than one place that can be a problem. Master first. ABS second. The rear brakes drum brakes with shoes. They are very difficult and people leave them for years. If they are worn down or installed wrong. Mine are installed with the shoes wrong. Air in the wheel cylinder or lines. Air in the front calipers. So bleed the lines back to front. Also it can be a bad master.
Music?
I agree, truly annoying. It needs a ukulele and snap track.
Kazoo makes the best background music.
Wow, that was excellent!!!! 10 stars!! No bs, just straight facts. Sub'd!
Wait...did I just get punked?
I used method 1. I cycled to piston until I seen no more bubbles. Although there was a lot of resistance, I never got to the point where I was unable to move the piston. Did I do this correctly?
Yes 100% correct
More question ? Insta keep_m_running
The special birthday biomechanically care because doctor feraly signal mid a discreet plough. dreary, joyous kick
can we do this when cylinder mounted on the car?
Yes with 2 people.
Esta buena la tutorial, mejor seria en español gracias
O en Japones no?
N n
What tool was that did he use?
Did you find that tool?
Master Cylinder Bleeder Tool, NAPA part# UP BSE150
I watched the video again and the piston was still going in. So that tells me the first method did not get all the air out. Show me proof next time and do the second method after the first.
Yes, this video was a waste of time. Terribly done IMO.
I did my master cylinder like this but when I continue pushing I didn't get any resistance it just kept pushing in the fluid just kept coming up is it ready or not thank you
Get some real plug , not the plastic one.and yes you should feel a difference. It should be harder to push.
For more question @keep_m_running
What is the tool you're using to compress the piston? I can't find it at all
Use simple screwdriver.
No need for the special tool
@@jw200
I already bought the tool months ago.
It makes it easier to prevent pushing the piston too far...which is what I ended up doing before i got the plunger.
@@jw200 What a simple screwdriver ? 🤔
Plastic would not scratch the inside bore.
You should have proved the first method actually works, and done the second method after the first. I need to see proof.
Yeah, I'm skeptical that there were no air bubbles left inside the master cylinder.
Yooo!! Where are your gloves?!