I had a 72 , lowered 2" . I just took the springs to a spring shop , got them de-arced . When dealing with driveshaft angles you want between 1 and 4 % on each yoke ,ideally each the same ,any less and the needle bearings will hammer out the cups , more will cause wear and vibration. Always liked the ride and handling better with a long box better . Crew cab best of all
Thanks for your detailed information on dimensions, prices and step by step instruction. It inspires me to do my 69 next spring. Good things to know and consider when in the planning stage.
I prefer the height but you live in the city and see speed bumps here and there. I live in alaska... need I say more?LOL A good job of thinking ahead, no surprises or at least fewer. A good job done well and learned more about what your working with
Couple nights back I discovered your Channel I enjoy the content how detailed you are but I noticed you got a TA in the corner I love them all Trans Am So I would love to see do something with that
The Flex-o-matic springs are longer than the standard springs. The rear shackle for the standard spring is considerably shorter, so if you were to use the extended hangar you purchased on a std spring setup, you'd get more drop. I don't know if there is enough room to build an extended hangar for the flex-o-matic setup without it hitting the underside of the bed. I have a '68 with standard springs and an '69 with Flex-o-matic.
Thanks, that explains a lot. That flex-o-matic mechanism is close to the bed floor now, I'm not sure you could move it up much more without having to cut the bed floor brace.
@@330_garage3 The flex o matic seems to ride better than the std spring. Neither haul much weight. But if your looking to go down more about the only options are an axle flip and c-notch or 4-link it. There is also a kit out there to install late model T-Bird IRS if you want to get real fancy.
I just looked at my 71. It has the flexomatic. The top of the spring is directly below the bed. It's not going anywhere. That could be why the front mount has 2 sets of holes. I bet the top hole is 8" lower than stock, giving you the 4" rear axle drop. Thanks much for the pinion angle shims. I never thought of that.
Wanted to see what's the options for 70 stepside before start ordering. Were you leveling it without a fuel tank? Saw one in the background, though looked like it was from a chevy? Looks like the kit I may need. Thanks
Love the video! Do you happen to have a part number I’m looking to do the same thing on my F250 and just want to make sure there’s no big differences I also have the flex-o-matic Shackle so I’m glad to see a video that actually work…
I like the result doesn't seem like you going for a x treme drop or you would had put the axle on top of the springs that would had been about 4" right there , the shackles worked really well though . I have a 250 as well DJM doesn't really list any parts for bumpside 250"s I called them once they said they made them at one time but they just sat on the shelf . I don't see why those shackles would not fit a F250 unless the front hanger is different bolt pattern or something . I would rather use the kit with shims instead of putting my axle on top of the springs
That’s exactly what I was thinking I believe in my lmc catalog the factory hanger for f100 and f250 are the same so the djm would have to be the same if that’s the case.. just a much better cleaner look then flipping the axle... unless you do both! Lol
@@gabeguedea2499 There's 250 kits but I seen 1 for 600 bucks ,m? I'm like ???? They use a metal u shape thing with your original perch so you don't need to cut your old one off it fits underneath can buy that or make it for 50 bucks , then find the 7/8 standard 250 or 1 1/8 drop beams usually 3" add a front spring from a 91-94 explorer that be 4-5" drop in front
@@mrb2917 Measuring this way give you *independent* angle(s) of the transmission and pinion, it does not give you the relationship between the pinion and the transmission. The transmission could be perfectly level with the pinion. Doing it this way does not give you pitch or yaw....
nice job... but when you put your bed back on and put the level and and said it was ass high still... you didn't have the tailgate on ! Then are you planning on putting the fuel tank in the rear like 20 gal. thats more weight and going to lower it and make it front high,,, I'm sure you thought about that later after making this video
I usually try to let my eye decide what looks "level" than an actual level. Sometimes the level will say something is level, but the eye, based on the physical dimensions of the vehicle, will not agree. The most common crime with these trucks and lowering kits is being too low in the rear due to the dimensions of the trucks being front-thick. If you know what I'm saying...
Holy crap fella you really need a new muffler that's got some serious rot to it thought that would come before a lowering kit.like the truck refurbish vids.nice job!!!!vids and editing.i personally dont like lowered look.keep it just level.thought maybe you was testing on ur frame weld.just curious how come you didnt just box in that portion of frame since you had it open for welding.thought would give much more strength to the shortened frame. Otherwise kudos.now a nice blue paint job.and I'll buy it!!!!snookie pa.
i wonder if a guy ONLY wants 2 inches lowering; why couldnt a guy JUST remove fr spring hanger and reposition it about 2-3 inches higher, simulating the new rebuilt ahnger and just redrill some new holes to mount it in this higher position? you may have to trim a bit of curved top of old bracker but so what its not touching the frame any longer anyways.
All those spots are unreliable You measure from the bottom lip of the fender to the CENTER of the wheel.. So remove the hun can and measure to the Center of the axle That’s TRUE ride height
I had a 72 , lowered 2" . I just took the springs to a spring shop , got them de-arced . When dealing with driveshaft angles you want between 1 and 4 % on each yoke ,ideally each the same ,any less and the needle bearings will hammer out the cups , more will cause wear and vibration. Always liked the ride and handling better with a long box better . Crew cab best of all
best series of videos for all the things i want to do with my 1969 f100
Nice ! Glad you guys are finding this stuff helpful - even if it shows you what not to do
Thanks for your detailed information on dimensions, prices and step by step instruction. It inspires me to do my 69 next spring. Good things to know and consider when in the planning stage.
Thanks for sharing your content it has been very informative and helpful to others
Glad you guys are finding it useful!
I prefer the height but you live in the city and see speed bumps here and there. I live in alaska... need I say more?LOL A good job of thinking ahead, no surprises or at least fewer. A good job done well and learned more about what your working with
Good Job! I really like a level truck!
watching this 4 years later seeing those "5 dollar pinion shims" be 30 bucks now lmao
I have a 1973 which is similar in many ways. I had always wondered what it would take to convert it to a short bed. Thanks for the video.
Was waitin for this one. Good job
Waiting for you to lower this,great content as always.
Couple nights back I discovered your Channel I enjoy the content how detailed you are but I noticed you got a TA in the corner I love them all Trans Am So I would love to see do something with that
Resurrection Motors after the F100
👍
My plan is to start making some progress on the TA in the spring.. I'll keep posting videos as I make headway on it
@@330_garage3 sounds awesome dude I can't wait to see you're next video
Good job. Honestly like what you’re doing to the truck.
Subscribing now.
I still can’t believe you put an ls in a Ford
The Flex-o-matic springs are longer than the standard springs. The rear shackle for the standard spring is considerably shorter, so if you were to use the extended hangar you purchased on a std spring setup, you'd get more drop. I don't know if there is enough room to build an extended hangar for the flex-o-matic setup without it hitting the underside of the bed. I have a '68 with standard springs and an '69 with Flex-o-matic.
Thanks, that explains a lot. That flex-o-matic mechanism is close to the bed floor now, I'm not sure you could move it up much more without having to cut the bed floor brace.
@@330_garage3 The flex o matic seems to ride better than the std spring. Neither haul much weight. But if your looking to go down more about the only options are an axle flip and c-notch or 4-link it. There is also a kit out there to install late model T-Bird IRS if you want to get real fancy.
I just looked at my 71. It has the flexomatic. The top of the spring is directly below the bed. It's not going anywhere.
That could be why the front mount has 2 sets of holes. I bet the top hole is 8" lower than stock, giving you the 4" rear axle drop. Thanks much for the pinion angle shims. I never thought of that.
Try a 50/5p mix of acetone and transmission fluid. (Don’t forget it’s flammable eats paint and melts plastic)
I do like the rest of the work though
I seen some guy just turn the stock shackle upside down that must had been at least 6" drop maybe he cut a hole in the bed for the shackle ...
Very good job
I have a 1978 Ford F100 custom. With helper span's. It is a short bed. Have had people try an buy it.
Wanted to see what's the options for 70 stepside before start ordering. Were you leveling it without a fuel tank? Saw one in the background, though looked like it was from a chevy? Looks like the kit I may need. Thanks
Love the video! Do you happen to have a part number I’m looking to do the same thing on my F250 and just want to make sure there’s no big differences I also have the flex-o-matic Shackle so I’m glad to see a video that actually work…
I thought I had listed it in the description... but just in case. DJM Suspension Shackle and Hanger Kits HS1130-4
330_Garage you probably did I just didn’t look lol thankyou very much
I like the result doesn't seem like you going for a x treme drop or you would had put the axle on top of the springs that would had been about 4" right there , the shackles worked really well though .
I have a 250 as well DJM doesn't really list any parts for bumpside 250"s I called them once they said they made them at one time but they just sat on the shelf . I don't see why those shackles would not fit a F250 unless the front hanger is different bolt pattern or something . I would rather use the kit with shims instead of putting my axle on top of the springs
That’s exactly what I was thinking I believe in my lmc catalog the factory hanger for f100 and f250 are the same so the djm would have to be the same if that’s the case.. just a much better cleaner look then flipping the axle... unless you do both! Lol
@@gabeguedea2499
There's 250 kits but I seen 1 for 600 bucks ,m? I'm like ???? They use a metal u shape thing with your original perch so you don't need to cut your old one off it fits underneath can buy that or make it for 50 bucks , then find the 7/8 standard 250 or 1 1/8 drop beams usually 3" add a front spring from a 91-94 explorer that be 4-5" drop in front
Will you be replacing the leaf springs? And if so, won't that change your pinion angle again?
Shouldn't you measure pinion angle on the driveshaft...
no the way he's doing it works fine
@@mrb2917
Measuring this way give you *independent* angle(s) of the transmission and pinion, it does not give you the relationship between the pinion and the transmission. The transmission could be perfectly level with the pinion. Doing it this way does not give you pitch or yaw....
QA1 have a bad ass front end set up for 67-72 F100 if you wanna do that check them out
I have a 72 f250 and wondering if I can lower it the same way
So if I got a long bed I can cut out sections to make it a short bed? Is that without cutting any frame section?
You have to cut/shorten the frame and also cut/shorten the bed itself so they match.
nice job... but when you put your bed back on and put the level and and said it was ass high still... you didn't have the tailgate on ! Then are you planning on putting the fuel tank in the rear like 20 gal. thats more weight and going to lower it and make it front high,,, I'm sure you thought about that later after making this video
I usually try to let my eye decide what looks "level" than an actual level. Sometimes the level will say something is level, but the eye, based on the physical dimensions of the vehicle, will not agree. The most common crime with these trucks and lowering kits is being too low in the rear due to the dimensions of the trucks being front-thick. If you know what I'm saying...
Holy crap fella you really need a new muffler that's got some serious rot to it thought that would come before a lowering kit.like the truck refurbish vids.nice job!!!!vids and editing.i personally dont like lowered look.keep it just level.thought maybe you was testing on ur frame weld.just curious how come you didnt just box in that portion of frame since you had it open for welding.thought would give much more strength to the shortened frame. Otherwise kudos.now a nice blue paint job.and I'll buy it!!!!snookie pa.
if its too low,you can jack it & re camber the diff with wedges,bronco,s have a 1" wedge.std.
i wonder if a guy ONLY wants 2 inches lowering; why couldnt a guy JUST remove fr spring hanger and reposition it about 2-3 inches higher, simulating the new rebuilt ahnger and just redrill some new holes to mount it in this higher position?
you may have to trim a bit of curved top of old bracker but so what its not touching the frame any longer anyways.
Looks like done a great job on bed mines a 1965 f100 im flat bed it crown Victoria crossmember any way thks for the video
I have sub to your video
QA1 now makes a kit...
All those spots are unreliable
You measure from the bottom lip of the fender to the CENTER of the wheel.. So remove the hun can and measure to the Center of the axle
That’s TRUE ride height
3/4" not enough.jack the diff off the ground,see how much it comes out.it should be half way in,at least.
Looks like someone put a 5th wheel kit on your frame
yeah or a gooseneck plate at one time. They didn't want it coming off, thats for sure haha
I gotta a 70 long bed i wana do this to
how much down
If you watch the UA-cam guy thecraig909 he has the same f100 and he lowered his the same and it looks real good check his videos
he cut a front spring and did an axle flip in the rear. just a different way of going about it.
I don't think you needed to put tape on the truck...
you messing the hole truck up by shorting the bed and putting a lowering kit on it leave it like it is it looks good the way it is
Short bed is way more desirable n then long bed and lower trucks look better .
“Lowering”, you mean neutering. I’m out.
Wayyy to much talking
Nah