Dell E2310Hc Repair
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- Опубліковано 5 кві 2017
- Dell model E2310Hc monitor repair.
I have repaired several of these. The problem was the same in each. The power light would illuminate when the monitor was plugged in. The buttons would not respond, and the screen remained dark.
In each case, the processor board (main board) was the problem. The part number of the processor board is 715G3329-1-2-HF. The capacitors were removed and tested with an ESR meter. In each case, capacitors C704 and C707 had failed. Replacing these capacitors fixed all of the monitors. These capacitors are both 100uF 25V. There was no swelling or other visible indication that the capacitors were bad. An ESR meter was needed to show that they had failed.
I had four in a row with the same problem. I assume this must be a common failure.
If you have this monitor, and it is doing strange things, such as the buttons locking up. Then consider the capacitors on the main board.
The main board is available for purchase from several Chinese merchants. If you have the ability to replace the capacitors on the board, then you can save money. If you do not have an ESR meter, I suggest just replacing C704 and C707 empirically. There is a good chance that will fix the problem.
This is a detailed "how to" video. It shows the step by step of how to take the monitor apart and put it back together. It is intended for the novice. If you are experienced at monitor repair, you can probably skip most of it. This video does not include instructions on how to desolder and replace electronic parts. There are many UA-cam videos that cover that topic.
Correction: In the video C704 and C709 were identified as the problem. It should be C704 and C707.
These instructions work perfectly on an E2210Hc too! Replacing C704 and C707 on my E2210Hc with new 100uF 25V caps resulted in a fully functional 22" monitor again! YAY! THANK YOU very very much C. David Graves for the wonderful information!
Thank you for this. Fixed this monitor yesterday replacing those two caps
Thanks very much for taking the time for making this video! I was able to fix my monitor following your instructions.
Great video! I have 2 monitors Dell 2210hc. One of them started shutting down shortly after it was turned on. I took it apart and discovered, the video processor on the main board gets quite hot, as well as the 3.3V LDO nearby. I thought it's problem with the processor or the LCD panel at first. Decided to look up on UA-cam for someone repairing similar monitor, and after watching through 6-7 other videos, I came across this one. The monitors look exactly the same as mine, the internals are the same too. And guess what, turned out the problem my had was the same also. Thank you for saving me the time for digging for schematics and parts. It was an easy fix. I got very lucky finding this video!
Thank you!
Oh, BTW I didn't have 100uF/25V and replaced mine with 220uF/25V. They are larger in size but still fit and the monitor is happy with them - most importantly.
Thanks for the detailed video. I was given the same dell monitor for free today and was able to repair it in 45 minutes!
Thanks - another elated success story here! The progressively-worsening symptoms were exactly as described: with a many months-long phase of the display not reliably resuming from standby, so I'd have to power cycle it at my power board (complete with cool-down time).
I replaced the C704 and C707 capacitors (also no signs of bulging) just as you identified; with my multimeter showing much higher resistance for the old caps (not that I bothered to test beforehand since I didn't yet have new caps to compare). This is a much more convenient option than ordering a logic board and waiting for it to be delivered from China.
I'm basically a soldering newbie so was initially baffled about how to remove the caps, but dangoodell2's "Replacing Electrolytic Capacitors" recapping video was also immensely helpful. I think I'll be keeping an eye out for more of these types of ubiquitous monitors being "discarded" in the future. :)
Thanks for posting this. I was sure it was going to be caps on the power board. You saved me a lot of messing about.
I now have a working E1910c screen.
Thanks for this!! I was able to save some money because I was planning to buy another monitor. Kudosto you sir :)
Mister you are a real savior !!
Thank you very much for your great effort .
i just managed to fix my dell E2210HC i had the same problem the capacitors were the fault.
Thanks once again 💟
You sir saved my monitor today. Thank you!
Excellent. Thank you for the feedback.
Great video, I was able to repair my old monitor for the price of $2, which was the cost of four new capacitors! Thanks
That is a super bargain. I am Glad I could help.
Awesome tutorial, thank you very much!
Worked for me!, thanks
Thanks a lot, man!
You save me and save my monitor!
Only $10USD to repair it!
awesome! I got my grandmother one of these for $50 to upgrade her old 19 inch that she was having trouble seeing. had the same symptoms and replaced those 2 capacitors. problem solved.
You'll be happy to know that on the U2312HM you don't have to worry anymore about undoing the screws on the side of the panel as now the cage holding the boards is held in place with 4 pieces of metallic tape to save even more money. 🤣
Serdeczne dzięki za materiał ,usterka usunięta monitor działa prawidłowo. U mnie wyłączał się po około 15 min.
Thank you so much :)
The CCFL inverter is on the same PCB as the main power? Is it best to replace all 4 caps? Another similar video described that one of the transistors (or MOSFETs) on that board tends to generate heat, & some of that heat fliws into the caps or ones nearby. Thank you 🤓 can a small heat sink be placed on the transistor (s) for extra heat removal? Also, does that Dell have a kind of reset button?
thank you
Did the caps you installed have any special specifications like low ESR? Will any garden variety 100uf 25v 105 centigrade cap do? What do all the extra marking on the OEM caps mean? Where did you purchase them?
Any 100uF 25V 105C caps should be fine. Make sure the dimensions are the same so you do not get into a fit problem. Low ESR may extend the life. Japanese made caps are the best. Brand names likes Nichicon, Suncon, Sanyo, or Panasonic can always be trusted. Chinese caps with unrecognized names are worrisome. I usually buy caps in bulk from B&D enterprises in Russell, PA. If I am buying just a few, I will usually get them from some eBay vendor.
PERFECT NOTE... A DETAIL I REALIZED IN THIS MONITOR THAT ALSO WORKS WITH THE CHANGE OF THE 3.9 ohm VIDEO CARD INPUT RESISTOR.. WHICH WAS CHANGED... CONGRATULATIONS...
I can not thank you enough!
I have Dell E2210HC and it can do anything while broken but while its plugged in it could stay at Dell logo, or it can be glitched.
Can you do a set up please
Howdy! I replaced the logic board and the screen now just flashes blue, then black, then white, then grey, then grey blue green red rows (bottom to top). From what I've read it sounds like a burn-in prevention setting, but I can't even access the monitor's menu. Other people have had the issue, but can still use the monitor when it has a video input. I cannot, it still cycles through those screens. Do you know a fix? Thanks in advance!
Unfortunately I have never encountered the problem you describe. I do not know how to fix it.
Logic board ka price kitana h
The problem with my monitor is half the screen is visible in the fog.What could be the problem?
Did you come right?
Could this be the problem with my Dell monitor, they just keep blinking white after 1 second and buttons don't respond.
If your Dell monitor is the same model, then yes.
Hi I need this software please
Tem muito serviço pra quem quer trabalhar com monitores Led e Lcd hoje em dia? Quero focar neste segmento, me dá uma opinião por favor!👏💯
Hi, I have question that doesn't directly apply to this video, but you probably know the answer. It's about those backlight CCFL lamps that plug into the inverter board. The Dell in this video conveniently uses only one plug for each lamp, but usually there is a set of 2 plugs per lamp, each having 2 wires that differ in color from the other plug. It visually looks something like this:
=blue&black wires (top lamp)
=pink&white wires (top lamp)
=blue&black wires (bottom lamp)
=pink&white wires (bottom lamp)
in that order for this example.
The problem is it's easy to mix up the order if I forget to note their positions. It's obvious which lamp set plugs into the top or bottom of the board, but within that lamp set there's no way to tell which color set goes where. I could put pink&white then blue&black instead of the original order. Does this matter? As long as both top lamp plugs go in the top inverter board sockets is it okay to switch them around?
Are you sure that there are only 2 CCFLs and that each has 2 pairs of wire? Could it be that there are actually 4 CCFLs with one pair of wires each? It is common to have 4 or even 6 CCFLs in larger monitors.
In my video on the Viewsonic VP211b monitor, I show an inverter with 6 pairs of wires (for 6 CCFL bulbs).
ua-cam.com/video/X9HdT140MEA/v-deo.html
I suspect your monitor actually has 4 bulbs. Since the bulbs are all identical, it should not matter which set of wires powers which bulb.
I see what you mean, I've seen those lamps and they're 2 in parallel at the top, and 2 at the bottom. What I'm referring to looks exactly like the lamp plugs in your "Samsung SyncMaster 2433BW-1" video, except the plugs in your Samsung video are joined together, preventing any mix up possibility. I'm sure you've seen those unjoined plugs I'm talking about, as it's very common. So it's okay to change the order then?
I do not have your monitor in front of me, so I can not be 100% sure. With that disclaimer said.
I believe it is probably safe to change the order of your back lite wires. Each set of wires and each bulb should be electrically identical and interchangeable. I have swapped back lite wires in monitors for trouble shooting inverter and bulb problem. It did not cause any problems.
Thanks!
In the case of the monitor in your photograph, the correct answer is: Yes. You can switch the order of the wire pairs. This monitor has 4 back lights. 2 on the top and 2 on the bottom. Each pair of wires is supplying a single back light. Each back light is physically and electrically identical.
There is a video about this over on the YT channel Ri5ux, he shows you how to quickly and easily take it apart without mangling the cover.
Getting this apart was the biggest mystery until I watched the other video.
It looks like he had a stack of a couple dozen he was repairing LOL
BRO I HAVE THAT SAME MONITER IT PUTS OUT 1080 AND ITS A GOOD BEGINER MONITER THERES NOTHING RONG WITH IT
Maybe this was the problem with your one screen that worked:
I have one of these exact models, given to me because the screen won't respond after coming out of power save mode. Otherwise the screen works fine. But, when it enters power save mode and the LED indicator turns yellow, if I leave it like that for more than a couple minutes and try to wake it up the LED turns blue and quickly blinks off and on once, then the blue LED stays on but the buttons are totally unresponsive with no screen image. It has to be unplugged from the mains and replugged to start working again. If it's in power save for less than a minute it wakes up okay. I don't have a cap tester, but if I need to remove the caps to test them I may as well replace them.
What do you think?
Edit: I tried it again, this time the blue LED quickly blinked off then on once like above, but showed the Dell logo (that always appears when you first power it on) and froze there. Trying again I see it usually shows the logo briefly, turns black and freezes. This indicates that the screen is actually powering off then on when coming out of power save and causing a conflict with the standby status. Also, when I unplug the screen I need to keep it unplugged from the mains for at least 10 seconds, sometimes longer. Plugged back in too soon and the problem resumes. After several tests the screen turned itself off and froze with the LED blue, this time without entering power save mode.
mikuanda.
Capacitors go bad slowly and they are temperature sensitive. You may have caps that are right at the threshold and may get worse as they heat up. The symptoms you are having are consistent with logic problems. I would just go ahead and empirically replace C704 and C707.
BTW: The one monitor that did work actually had bad caps, they just had not gotten bad enough to cause the monitor to fail. I replaced the caps on that monitor as well.
Thank you David. Yes, I heard you say you found and replaced the ready-to-fail caps on the "good" monitor, but at 16:00 where you weren't sure exactly what prompted the previous owners to discard it, I'm suggesting they may have had my symptoms, since they aren't immediately obvious. Anyhow, I'm going to replace those two caps and I'll reply with the results.
It's fixed, exactly as you described, those two caps. Thanks very much for putting up this video.
Those caps were murder to replace though, as the solder wouldn't melt. I had to make my iron red hot, and still had to use a knife and pliers to rip out two leads that had pulled out of the caps and were still in the solder pad holes. I ended up ripping out an entire pad, and tediously coaxed as much solder as I could into the cavity to ensure a connection. Anyway, it's done and it works, thanks to you!
I am glad to hear it worked for you. I find it to be very satisfying to bring something back to life for a few dollars in parts.
It sounds like you have a poor quality soldering iron. Maybe it needs a new tip? If you have not already done so, you should invest in a solder sucker tools. A cheap plastic one works fine. It is a necessity tool if you are going to be doing electronic projects.
I do have pumps, it turns out I wasn't tinning the iron. I don't solder very often and always thought the purpose of tinning was just to aid in cleaning the tip. Now I know it is to improve heat transfer, to avoid the very problem I experienced.