Hell yeah, these tips are pure gold, and I'm grateful for you dropping knowledge bombs! A few of these nuggets were already bouncing around in my brain (thanks to binge-watching those epic long-range vids), but your MVP move is stressing the need for a chill approach on arrival - speed in moderation (paired, of course, with a battery packed with as many mAh as humanly possible). Super clutch advice, my dude! Major props, and I'm itching to clock in a flight that stretches into the 25-minute territory. Compare that to the constant six-minute nail-biter with the DJI FPV - no more stressing about the ticking clock! :)
Beautiful and very well done sir. Do you have any recommendations for a 32 bit esc for a 20by20mm m2 mount for a Flywoo Explorer LR 4 V2 frame I'm building, I'm going to be using the matek h743 mini flight controller and Flywoo Dave-C-FPV 1404 2750kv motors
Thank you. It has been a while since I built anything myself now, the prebuilt are cheaper and I don't have any good reason to build my own anymore. I can recommend the iFlight parts though they have a good QC.
Great video new subber! Enjoyed the Google Earth planning approach and your experience with batteries! flying over water is very scary - looks like there's not much that you can do to avoid it ;) In your case each decent mountain seems to have a fjord next to it. And starting on the very base of the mountain is not good for RF - so water has to be crossed ;) Very scary if you fly back on low power. In my case flying back with low power I mostly fly over fields or forrests in worst case here ;) greets, Mario PS: one of the first FPV role models I looked up to was FPV Leif from Hardanger ;)
Thanks, yea Google earth has more nice things also. Like time planner so you can see where the sun hits on a specific time. A good vantage point is key for hitting spots. And sometimes you need to hike for a while 😄
Would love to see some tests with even larger packs myself. It would be interesting to see how it handles 6s3p. But I think the pro model would do better with it due to the powerfull motors.
Hi! I am looking into the same thing as you do in this video Mountain Surfer. I think you deliver a great guide on how to approach things before you send your trusty drone and GoPro. I always turn around with about 40% used, In case of that headwind. And I agree, I find the "30minutes guaranteed flight time" videos to be of no value add. The fullsend 6s 18650 3000mah (x2 in parallel) and the "farinsframes" p42a 4000mah is my go-to batteries, have you tested the p42a? I find them very good and reliable even in cold conditions. Thank you for posting this one, I love your lr flights.
I did take a look at the Molicel 21700 P42A when they came but I couldn't get a hold of them at the time. They do seem to one up the Samsung. In a 2p you could do 90A with a bit more capacity :) Have you flown with them for long ?
Electrical ? Sure, but as it is not designed to carry current you might want to test how much it can carry. But I think it would be difficult to solder it on. You can't just force it with a lot of solder and heat because it will damage the cells. And you need to insolate it so it dont short on anything. It's just no reason not to just use some proper wire, or magnesium strip if you have a spot-welder. Spot welder is great because it dosent introduce large amounts of heat to the battery.
Thank you. With li-ion, do you generally find that lower amp draw will allow for more capacity usage? Basically is it more efficient to go slow vs going fast?
Absolutely, but the action that uses more amp will do more damage to flight time overall. It costs more energy to accelerate and to fly fast, keeping a steady flow is the way to go. If flight time is your target. They run all kinds of tests on these cells all over the net, here's a test on the INR21700-40T lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Samsung%20INR21700-40T%204000mAh%20(Cyan)%20UK.html
great vid buddy :) when i saw the map. i saw Trandal Ferjekai. i was like ka farsken ja dæven han var jo norsk hehe. i just got some 3300mah from elefun to see if i like that contra homepade 21700 packs. these 40t 6s packs do you charge at 2a or 2.5a?
@@MountainSurfer oh snap, here im thinkin li ion i always charge my 21700 vape at 1a, gues it was a habit ^^ so a 6s1p 40t you would charge at 4.4a ? on lipos i normaly charge 2c on my smaller 6s packs. on 5ah ones i stay at1c
@@Just4FunRC Well since the cell is 4Ah I would charge it at 4A. Samsung 21700-40T 4Ah cell has a standard charge rate at 2A and rated charge at 6A. So the they recommend 0.5c but 1c is just easier.
Jeg såg litt på hvilken batterier jeg skulle skaffe meg til chimera’7.. jeg valgte og kjøpe meg 5000mah lipo 6s pga att jeg var usikker på hvor mye amp 1300kv brukte på normal cruise. Men jeg testa her om dagen ett 3700mah og merket att 5000lipo er tungt. Jeg har ikke likt så godt liion er att det tar lang tid oh ladde pga att det er max 1c.. men jeg fant nå en side som har fullsendt liion på -15 prosent, men dette er jo den IFLIGHT - FULLSEND LR 6S 1P 4000MAH.. har du testa disse?
Ja de veier rimelig mye. Det er også bunnløs kraft å ta i, jeg bruker å refferere til denne ua-cam.com/video/2KvYGGL9g-8/v-deo.html som viser rimelig greit hvor mye den kan flytte på seg uten å svette. Jeg flyr ofte med både doble 1800 og også 1x1800 og 1x2200 i paralell avhengig av hva jeg skal gjøre. Vil foresten anbefale å lade alle batterier på 1C om du vil ta vare på de. Spessielt når de er så dyre som de her store batteriene her. Nesten alt man gjør med den ømfintlige lipo chemien er skadelig for batteriet. Lading over 1c, utlading, lagring, tempratur. Bare du lar de stå full lagret så taper man levetid hvert sekund for det dannes krystaller inne i batteriet. helt sykt 😂 Jeg har ikke testet de enda nei, jeg såg ikke at de var ute før i dag faktisk. Men jeg kommer til å kjøpe noen for prisen er ikke gale i forrhold til hva cellene koster. De er laget av samme cellene som jeg har brukt selv på mine pakker INR21700-40T. Setter du 2 slike sammen får du det jeg flyr mest med. Bare hold et øye med sensoren så du ikke overstiger 80A. Jeg har fløget med samme batteriet i over 2 år og tatt vare på det, jeg har ikke merket noe tap enda.
@@MountainSurfer jeg var ute og testa for første gang ogår resque mode. Og det gikk ikke helt så bra, på 3 forsøk så endre det i att quad gikk opp til 90 meter ish og plutselig deaktiverte drona seg å gikk rett ned, 3 timer senere fant jeg den like strøken 50 Cm under snø å myr. Testet og alt virka, Men tipper feilen var også att jeg var innenfor 200 meter når jeg prøvde, Har du lyst og dele erfaring med sine resque settings? Kjører du standard betaflight, eller har du testa dine egne settings?
Nice at du fant den igjen da, jeg har ikke altid vært så heldig :) Jeg har også forferdelig erfaring med RTH, jeg kjører betaflight og 200m skal gå fint. Høres nesten ut som du har drop og ikke GPS rescue. Sjekk hvilke stage du har på failsafe. Den må ha satt "Home position" som gjøres etter 100m og du må ha minimumet med satelitter locked når du tar av. (bruker å være 8) Om du har på den sanity checks og slikt så får du ikke armert uten dette er på. Merk også at den fungerer ikke slik som DJI gjør, den vil ikke lande og slikt, den er bare ment for å sende dronen tilbake i nærheten så du kan ta tilbake kontroll. Jeg bruker å teste min når jeg flyr første batteri og jeg flyr rett frem over 100m ser at pilen er peker rett bak og så aktiverer jeg GPS rescue. Ikke failsafe. Ser at den snur og går opp så bare fortsetter jeg. Både bardwell og nurk har video på dette Bardwell går gjennom instillingene ua-cam.com/video/-bYavyTRvx8/v-deo.html Nurk har en serie hvor han failer på dette som er interesant å se ua-cam.com/video/GE6K9HiTO90/v-deo.html
Have you noticed any performance differences between Lion and Lipo packs in cold weather? Does one or the other seem to not be effected by the cold as much as the other as far as voltage sag?
Good question, but no I don't. I remember seeing a operation temperature graph somewhere that stated that lithium batteries lost 40% capacity at -20c. And that seems about right to me. I highly recommend preheating batteries before flying in below 0c. Optimal temperature is somewhere in the 15c-35c range. I use a thermal bag with a USB blanket heater when I am out.
Hell yeah, these tips are pure gold, and I'm grateful for you dropping knowledge bombs!
A few of these nuggets were already bouncing around in my brain (thanks to binge-watching those epic long-range vids), but your MVP move is stressing the need for a chill approach on arrival - speed in moderation (paired, of course, with a battery packed with as many mAh as humanly possible).
Super clutch advice, my dude!
Major props, and I'm itching to clock in a flight that stretches into the 25-minute territory. Compare that to the constant six-minute nail-biter with the DJI FPV - no more stressing about the ticking clock! :)
This is a must that any mid/long range quad pilot should learn in the first place ! Subbed
Beautiful and very well done sir. Do you have any recommendations for a 32 bit esc for a 20by20mm m2 mount for a Flywoo Explorer LR 4 V2 frame I'm building, I'm going to be using the matek h743 mini flight controller and Flywoo Dave-C-FPV 1404 2750kv motors
Thank you. It has been a while since I built anything myself now, the prebuilt are cheaper and I don't have any good reason to build my own anymore.
I can recommend the iFlight parts though they have a good QC.
So beautiful flight
Great video new subber! Enjoyed the Google Earth planning approach and your experience with batteries! flying over water is very scary - looks like there's not much that you can do to avoid it ;) In your case each decent mountain seems to have a fjord next to it. And starting on the very base of the mountain is not good for RF - so water has to be crossed ;)
Very scary if you fly back on low power. In my case flying back with low power I mostly fly over fields or forrests in worst case here ;)
greets, Mario
PS: one of the first FPV role models I looked up to was FPV Leif from Hardanger ;)
Thanks, yea Google earth has more nice things also. Like time planner so you can see where the sun hits on a specific time.
A good vantage point is key for hitting spots. And sometimes you need to hike for a while 😄
Sub earned! Dope content 🔥
Great information and video 🤩👏👏
Thank you
That was very interesting, I always wonder where the point of diminishing returns begins 🤔
Would love to see some tests with even larger packs myself. It would be interesting to see how it handles 6s3p. But I think the pro model would do better with it due to the powerfull motors.
Hi! I am looking into the same thing as you do in this video Mountain Surfer. I think you deliver a great guide on how to approach things before you send your trusty drone and GoPro.
I always turn around with about 40% used, In case of that headwind. And I agree, I find the "30minutes guaranteed flight time" videos to be of no value add.
The fullsend 6s 18650 3000mah (x2 in parallel) and the "farinsframes" p42a 4000mah is my go-to batteries, have you tested the p42a?
I find them very good and reliable even in cold conditions.
Thank you for posting this one, I love your lr flights.
I did take a look at the Molicel 21700 P42A when they came but I couldn't get a hold of them at the time.
They do seem to one up the Samsung. In a 2p you could do 90A with a bit more capacity :)
Have you flown with them for long ?
@@MountainSurfer Since June, so not that long yet, It has a little more weight and also more punch compared with my 18650.
Happy new year!
do you think flat copper desoldering wick is good for connecting cells?
Electrical ? Sure, but as it is not designed to carry current you might want to test how much it can carry.
But I think it would be difficult to solder it on. You can't just force it with a lot of solder and heat because it will damage the cells.
And you need to insolate it so it dont short on anything.
It's just no reason not to just use some proper wire, or magnesium strip if you have a spot-welder.
Spot welder is great because it dosent introduce large amounts of heat to the battery.
Thank you. With li-ion, do you generally find that lower amp draw will allow for more capacity usage? Basically is it more efficient to go slow vs going fast?
Absolutely, but the action that uses more amp will do more damage to flight time overall. It costs more energy to accelerate and to fly fast, keeping a steady flow is the way to go. If flight time is your target.
They run all kinds of tests on these cells all over the net, here's a test on the INR21700-40T lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Samsung%20INR21700-40T%204000mAh%20(Cyan)%20UK.html
great vid buddy :) when i saw the map. i saw Trandal Ferjekai. i was like ka farsken ja dæven han var jo norsk hehe. i just got some 3300mah from elefun to see if i like that contra homepade 21700 packs.
these 40t 6s packs do you charge at 2a or 2.5a?
Haha thanks, I always charge at 1c. So the 8Ah is charged at 8A.
@@MountainSurfer oh snap, here im thinkin li ion i always charge my 21700 vape at 1a, gues it was a habit ^^ so a 6s1p 40t you would charge at 4.4a ?
on lipos i normaly charge 2c on my smaller 6s packs. on 5ah ones i stay at1c
@@Just4FunRC Well since the cell is 4Ah I would charge it at 4A.
Samsung 21700-40T 4Ah cell has a standard charge rate at 2A and rated charge at 6A.
So the they recommend 0.5c but 1c is just easier.
@@MountainSurfer reocommendation are meant to be push. so yeah lets hit 1c ^^
Jeg såg litt på hvilken batterier jeg skulle skaffe meg til chimera’7.. jeg valgte og kjøpe meg 5000mah lipo 6s pga att jeg var usikker på hvor mye amp 1300kv brukte på normal cruise.
Men jeg testa her om dagen ett 3700mah og merket att 5000lipo er tungt. Jeg har ikke likt så godt liion er att det tar lang tid oh ladde pga att det er max 1c.. men jeg fant nå en side som har fullsendt liion på -15 prosent, men dette er jo den IFLIGHT - FULLSEND LR 6S 1P 4000MAH.. har du testa disse?
Ja de veier rimelig mye. Det er også bunnløs kraft å ta i, jeg bruker å refferere til denne ua-cam.com/video/2KvYGGL9g-8/v-deo.html som viser rimelig greit hvor mye den kan flytte på seg uten å svette.
Jeg flyr ofte med både doble 1800 og også 1x1800 og 1x2200 i paralell avhengig av hva jeg skal gjøre.
Vil foresten anbefale å lade alle batterier på 1C om du vil ta vare på de. Spessielt når de er så dyre som de her store batteriene her.
Nesten alt man gjør med den ømfintlige lipo chemien er skadelig for batteriet. Lading over 1c, utlading, lagring, tempratur. Bare du lar de stå full lagret så taper man levetid hvert sekund for det dannes krystaller inne i batteriet. helt sykt 😂
Jeg har ikke testet de enda nei, jeg såg ikke at de var ute før i dag faktisk.
Men jeg kommer til å kjøpe noen for prisen er ikke gale i forrhold til hva cellene koster.
De er laget av samme cellene som jeg har brukt selv på mine pakker INR21700-40T.
Setter du 2 slike sammen får du det jeg flyr mest med. Bare hold et øye med sensoren så du ikke overstiger 80A.
Jeg har fløget med samme batteriet i over 2 år og tatt vare på det, jeg har ikke merket noe tap enda.
@@MountainSurfer jeg var ute og testa for første gang ogår resque mode.
Og det gikk ikke helt så bra, på 3 forsøk så endre det i att quad gikk opp til 90 meter ish og plutselig deaktiverte drona seg å gikk rett ned, 3 timer senere fant jeg den like strøken 50
Cm under snø å myr. Testet og alt virka,
Men tipper feilen var også att jeg var innenfor 200 meter når jeg prøvde,
Har du lyst og dele erfaring med sine resque settings? Kjører du standard betaflight, eller har du testa dine egne settings?
Nice at du fant den igjen da, jeg har ikke altid vært så heldig :)
Jeg har også forferdelig erfaring med RTH, jeg kjører betaflight og 200m skal gå fint.
Høres nesten ut som du har drop og ikke GPS rescue.
Sjekk hvilke stage du har på failsafe.
Den må ha satt "Home position" som gjøres etter 100m og du må ha minimumet med satelitter locked når du tar av. (bruker å være 8)
Om du har på den sanity checks og slikt så får du ikke armert uten dette er på.
Merk også at den fungerer ikke slik som DJI gjør, den vil ikke lande og slikt, den er bare ment for å sende dronen tilbake i nærheten så du kan ta tilbake kontroll.
Jeg bruker å teste min når jeg flyr første batteri og jeg flyr rett frem over 100m ser at pilen er peker rett bak og så aktiverer jeg GPS rescue. Ikke failsafe. Ser at den snur og går opp så bare fortsetter jeg.
Både bardwell og nurk har video på dette
Bardwell går gjennom instillingene ua-cam.com/video/-bYavyTRvx8/v-deo.html
Nurk har en serie hvor han failer på dette som er interesant å se ua-cam.com/video/GE6K9HiTO90/v-deo.html
Have you noticed any performance differences between Lion and Lipo packs in cold weather? Does one or the other seem to not be effected by the cold as much as the other as far as voltage sag?
Good question, but no I don't.
I remember seeing a operation temperature graph somewhere that stated that lithium batteries lost 40% capacity at -20c.
And that seems about right to me.
I highly recommend preheating batteries before flying in below 0c.
Optimal temperature is somewhere in the 15c-35c range.
I use a thermal bag with a USB blanket heater when I am out.
You could climb mount everest with that much power :)
Haha
why did 7:02 look like a warthunder map 😭
fuck, norway is so beautiful,
lol