Cutting the inner stems with a coping saw and then sanding with a belt sander was like watching someone play Fur Elise on a Steinway piano using a sledge hammer instead of their fingers! Yikes! I wouldn't have the guts to do that. I'd be dreaming all night about the task before me and in the morning drinking an entire bottle of Malox to sooth my acid stomach. That said, you are amazing. I am constantly aware of how much effort I've put into each canoe I've done. At some point the investment is so high that the smallest mess up would be catastrophic. I get so nervous. You are a pro so you've been there, done that. Your confidence is going to help me a lot in the future. The fitting of the stems, the system you used, was beautiful. Thank you.
Oh that Maple will look great. This series is outstanding.......come on lets float that boat! Where do you get those cake decoration bags for the thickened epoxy?
Beautiful work and great videos. I had a question as to why you don't attach the stem until after you have glassed the hull. For this boat, I see that the stem spans the hull and the deck sections so I can see why you waited until after the sections were attached. I am working on the Petrel Play and the stem seems like it ends at the part line, so is there some reason that I am not seeing for waiting to attach the stem until after the hull is glassed?
On the Petrel I could install the outer stem earlier. On this one I definitely wanted one continuous outer stem. Since the part line is down near the middle of the stem height installing it late in the process produce a better looking result.
@@NickSchade Thanks, Nick. I really do appreciate your reply. It is great to see someone with such dedication to great craftsmanship and great videos. I really don't know how you work all this in - and then taking the time to reply to everyone's questions. After some deliberation, I did decide to wait to attach the stems until after I have attached the deck to the hull on the Petrel Play also.
This series has been an incredible display of skill and talent put to a very practical purpose. Frankly, I'm in awe. But it has also been a very long series in terms of time. I assume this is your business. How many boats can you produce in a year and are you working on other boats at the same time? (Maybe during epoxy drying time for example)
I design and build boats as a business. On a good year I will build about 3 boats. I don't have the space to do multiple large projects at a time, so usually it is one boat until I'm done, then start the next project. I have done two boats simultaneously, and while it does save some time when doing epoxy work, there is not that much time saving possible.
Instead of using scarfed plywood I made a sample fiberglass panel using plywood and Formica. I spoke of this in an earlier communication. However I think I used one layer of woven roving too much. I guess it would be fine if I were building a tank.
LOL...what was that word used to describe squeeze out? “Smutchz” or something close to that. I’m always interested in expanding my nautical nomenclature. I guess that’s shop talk. LOL. Anyway it’s looking terrific. Cheers.
Jim, I know you have been waiting for the outer stems for a while. I hope this answered your questions. Yes, I do have a shinto rasp. I really like them. Mine will show up soon for dealing with epoxy drips.
Since I am not installing hatches, I want the skeg box accessible from the cockpit for installation and servicing. Skegs actually work well even nearly centered on a kayak. A centered skeg prevents side slipping and if the kayak doesn't side slip it will not be turned in a wind.
I use the skeg as an added dimension of control in wind and waves. There is very little need for it in flat and calm water. 90% of the time I would be happy without a skeg, but 10% it just makes life easier.
I bet sometimes you lose sleep at night just thinking about how to do things. I know I do. The heck with sleep...I'm going back to work in my shop and wake the neighbors.
That Maple makes a beautiful contrast. She's looking great.
Cutting the inner stems with a coping saw and then sanding with a belt sander was like watching someone play Fur Elise on a Steinway piano using a sledge hammer instead of their fingers! Yikes! I wouldn't have the guts to do that. I'd be dreaming all night about the task before me and in the morning drinking an entire bottle of Malox to sooth my acid stomach. That said, you are amazing. I am constantly aware of how much effort I've put into each canoe I've done. At some point the investment is so high that the smallest mess up would be catastrophic. I get so nervous. You are a pro so you've been there, done that. Your confidence is going to help me a lot in the future. The fitting of the stems, the system you used, was beautiful. Thank you.
Great series Nick! Thanks again for your efforts in putting these videos together!
I was not expecting the maple stems. Very nice touch!
Oh that Maple will look great. This series is outstanding.......come on lets float that boat! Where do you get those cake decoration bags for the thickened epoxy?
The pastry bags are from amazon: amzn.to/34tooRF
Beautiful work and great videos. I had a question as to why you don't attach the stem until after you have glassed the hull. For this boat, I see that the stem spans the hull and the deck sections so I can see why you waited until after the sections were attached. I am working on the Petrel Play and the stem seems like it ends at the part line, so is there some reason that I am not seeing for waiting to attach the stem until after the hull is glassed?
On the Petrel I could install the outer stem earlier. On this one I definitely wanted one continuous outer stem. Since the part line is down near the middle of the stem height installing it late in the process produce a better looking result.
@@NickSchade Thanks, Nick. I really do appreciate your reply. It is great to see someone with such dedication to great craftsmanship and great videos. I really don't know how you work all this in - and then taking the time to reply to everyone's questions. After some deliberation, I did decide to wait to attach the stems until after I have attached the deck to the hull on the Petrel Play also.
This series has been an incredible display of skill and talent put to a very practical purpose. Frankly, I'm in awe. But it has also been a very long series in terms of time. I assume this is your business. How many boats can you produce in a year and are you working on other boats at the same time? (Maybe during epoxy drying time for example)
I design and build boats as a business. On a good year I will build about 3 boats. I don't have the space to do multiple large projects at a time, so usually it is one boat until I'm done, then start the next project. I have done two boats simultaneously, and while it does save some time when doing epoxy work, there is not that much time saving possible.
Thanks. Again, an outstanding and truly educational series.
Instead of using scarfed plywood I made a sample fiberglass panel using plywood and Formica. I spoke of this in an earlier communication. However I think I used one layer of woven roving too much. I guess it would be fine if I were building a tank.
Excellent as always!!!
LOL...what was that word used to describe squeeze out? “Smutchz” or something close to that. I’m always interested in expanding my nautical nomenclature. I guess that’s shop talk. LOL. Anyway it’s looking terrific. Cheers.
schmootz - phonetically a substitute for a similar sh.... word. ;-)
Just curious if you have a Shinto Saw Rasp ? Another great video Nick ! Thanks !
Jim, I know you have been waiting for the outer stems for a while. I hope this answered your questions.
Yes, I do have a shinto rasp. I really like them. Mine will show up soon for dealing with epoxy drips.
Anxious to see how you finish the stems !
Good afternoon Nick. Skeg is very close to the cockpit. Is there an advantage in this decision? Thank you. :-)
Since I am not installing hatches, I want the skeg box accessible from the cockpit for installation and servicing. Skegs actually work well even nearly centered on a kayak. A centered skeg prevents side slipping and if the kayak doesn't side slip it will not be turned in a wind.
OK.Thank you
. :-)
I use the skeg as an added dimension of control in wind and waves. There is very little need for it in flat and calm water. 90% of the time I would be happy without a skeg, but 10% it just makes life easier.
:-) Thank you.
I bet sometimes you lose sleep at night just thinking about how to do things. I know I do. The heck with sleep...I'm going back to work in my shop and wake the neighbors.
Some of my best idea come when I would rather be sleeping.