Please don't apologize for a product review, your straight up to the truth about the dislikes of it or the likes of it leaving it up to a consumer to make there own decisions whether to purchase or not.....i e seen to many on UA-cam where they made a product seem like the next best thing to peanut butter and it really isn't 👍
I love the honesty of your vids mate. I've learnt more in half a dozen of your vids than anyone else on youtube except maybe ToT but he doesn't count coz he isn't Australian. Keep up the content 👍
Max, I see no need for you to apologise for doing the odd review, after all it's your Shop & your channel, we're just "guests". Those who are "traumatised" having to face watching a review can always "tune out" by "changing channels"... And it's not like how other channels operate where they're constantly doing reviews & so can't be believed.
G'day, fella. I'm a pom, and we've got a 1938 Derbyshire lathe in our workshop as well as several other makers lathes, one of which is Australian, but I'll get to that in a moment. Every lathe, milling machine, and drill press, you name it we got it, as well as 90% of our tools, all were inherited by my father in 1978 when my grandfather passed away. He inherited everything from his father going right back to 1862 when the business was started. It will all belong to me one day when dad passes, but I'm in no hurry 😏 joking. That was a joke, seriously. I know, bad taste right?🤭 Since then, there have been a few additional items dad purchased then more recently by myself. Items such as our brilliant CNC cutting tables, lathe and milling machine and welders, etc. Most dads of a certain age are no good with computers. Mine is no exception. He still prefers to cut and gouge using gas or weld with an arc welder or stick, as the Americans call them. Whereas I prefer plasma. Anyway, the Derbyshire was overhauled just last month for the first time. In situ were a number of securing nuts with holes drilled in them. This was to allow wire to pass through preventing the nuts from being removed, and all had crimped lead tabs fixed to the ends, preventing tampering. This apparently was a government requirement back in the day for some machines that were used on government contracts. Why or how this was so important? I have no idea. I mean, what does it matter if the machines are adjusted? That's what we do. It makes no sense to me. On each set of wires, there are six in total, there is an embossed metal tag, like an American dog tag. Each is dated 23rd April 1938, which is 26 days before my grandfather purchased it. I remember the identical shift set up to yours as it was me who overhauled our lathe. 😁 You may be surprised to learn it's a common setup as I have found it on two other machines, one of which is Australian built, the one I mentioned at the beginning. Its called the "Advanced." It's a bugger of a beast to operate right now as there's an issue with the gear box. When I have the time, I'll strip it down then try to get hold of any spare parts, which may be difficult since the company who built it is no longer trading. Now, we could see your ball bearing was knackered. I mean, it was really worn out and pitted like a spotty teenagers face. That shouldn't be like that, the ball-bearing i mean, which is why it caused so much wear. Between my spring and a very nice shiney ball bearing (original) is a bronze, not brass, but a bronze coupling much like what you were describing. The spring sits nicely inside the coupling while the other end cups the ball bearing, allowing it to run smoothly in all four directions with the aid of oil, which is drip fed. From now on, let's just call it "ball" instead of ball bearing. According to dad, and some papers we found packed away in a suitcase under the stairs. Our company was started in 1862 by my great grandfather, who bought it as a derelict blacksmiths foundry. With it came ledgers, receipts, and order books going back the the1600s. The man he purchased it from called Ernest Charles Colchester ( what a brilliant name) was a smithy from 1673 until 1746, when he died. In 1752 a man called Arnold Cooper, also a blacksmith, purchased the land and demolished half of the barn so he could start a foundry business, to forge anything and everything of the day. There was a high demand for sword blanks, whatever they are. Carrage springs, lanterns, and railings. Something else, too, hand bells of all things. According to some of the ledgers we have, hand bells were made in their dozens and shipped around the world. After he died in 1836, the foundry lay dormant until my great grandfather made the purchase. He started off mainly forging iron gates and continued making springs for carages but didn't bother with the bells. Great grandfather then landed a contract to machine cogs, sprockets, and straps for engines used in the Dudley colliery pit in the West Midlands. That was his first big major contract which started on 12/10/1862 and ran until the pit closed in 1968. He had eight colliery contracts, the biggest providing equipment for a company called Bridgestone, who in later years built heavy plant machines used in "open pit mines" like Kellingly colliery in North Yorkshire. He also had a contract with Caterpillar USA machining parts for one particular model of mining truck and we still have that contract only now we manufacture seventeen different parts. From 1919, right through until 1962, grandfather worked for the government producing many different militery parts for tanks, engines, vehicle parts including sprockets and wheels. Even parts for some hand held weapons, although the later didn't last. After the war ended in 1945, he continued making parts for the war ministry, who later became the MOD, Ministry of Defence. Dad continued their work until the MOD pulled all contracts in 1982, not long after the Falklands war ended. He still had plenty of work coming in but losing those MOD contracts was a hard pill to swallow. I officially joined the company in 1979, age 18, but I had worked alongside dad and my grandfather since I was a young boy. Machining is literally in my blood with all the machinist oil, shavings, and chips I've handled over the years.😂 Apologies, I went off pist there a bit. Stupid bastard. To recap. If you design a holder like you said in the video, to secure the spring at one end and cup a brand new ball at the other. A ball of the same or similar size, it's not critical, it will last well after your leave this godforsaken planet. If you have a piece of bronze laying about your shop, all well and good. If not, then I'm sure one made out of brass will suffice but make sure you use a brand new ball, that's key, because you need the hard smooth shiney surface of the ball and a little oil to allow the ball to roll, not scrape along. Got it! 😂 There were way too many balls for my liking. 😮 Cheers, and good luck mate.👍🏴⚒️
Good one Max👍. Looks spot on. As for the reviews. I personally enjoy watching an honest shake down, and if you get to keep the tools, well that’s a bonus. Greetings from Amsterdam.
Enjoyed this one greatly Max...My cup of tea...milling, turning and TIG' ing..repeat and rinse, restore function of a part, just don't get any better for me!✔
Hello Max. That turned out well. It's the small things, like crisp detents, that make a machine much more enjoyable to use. The work you did on the detents is where digital readouts really shine. I sometimes use my Brideport clone with dro as a co-ordinate measuring machine to measure features on parts. It can be very handy. An odd thing I just discovered about digital read outs is that they are one of the few things that has actually come down in price over the last twenty years. A few weeks ago I found some old reciepts from when I bought the Mitutoyo read outs for my Bridgeport clone back in 2003. I compared them to the Mitutoyo read outs I bought last summer (2023) for my HBM and both the readout head (display box) and bars were cheaper in 2023 than they were in 2003. I don't know how they do it as just about everything else has doubled in that time. Ken
One day i will get a couple set up on the machines . Hopefully at least one DRO a year will get done . The Bridgeport & JFMT Lathe will be first . The Stanko mill already has one , an old Mitutoyo linear ( the size of a microwave oven ! ) 👍
Thanks Max. You sang my song when the edge finder broke. I'm pretty sure most of us have sang the song before. Should be the Machinist Anthem. lol. 2nd verse is Son-of-a ____________
G'day Max, absolutely loved this one mate, saved it to my problem solving solving playlist, thanks for taking the time to explain everything mate As far as the review goes, stick with em, you're honest and straightforward with them, show us a bit of kit we could use in the shop, and you get to keep it too, its a win win buddy
Enjoyed the video Max, great camera work, and as a bonus, I learned a new Ausie euphemism regarding undies! 😅👍 Hate to laugh during someone else's misfortune, but it could not be helped..... LOL!
Good one Max! Nice refurbishment of the wishy washy detent plate. That should eliminate any herkie jerkiness... Good stuff enjoyed as usual. Cheers...ATB...
Hi Max. A day late and a dollar short I know but if you’ve never tried it, I’ve had tremendous success with tig build up of surfaces that will need to be wear resistant by clamping broken high speed steel drill bits and other cutters with needle nose vise grips and using them as tig filler. Works great. Try sometime.
Lovely little repair job Max. It's these sort of jobs that make the machine a pleasure to use, everything rolling then positively stopping in position. Had to do similar on the fwd/reverse lever on my new to me chinese lathe. It was like a wotsit in a bucket until I sorted the linkage and detents out.
Well figured out Max, great end result, looks bang on. Always enjoy watching you on the Bridgeport seeing the UK 3 pin socket in view, makes me think you are just round the corner so I have access to some bigger gear if I need it 😂😂. Cheers, Jon
Very good video once again Max, And them o sh$t moments Happen to all of us from time to time I had mine last week when a part I was making ripped out of the mill vice. Cheers
I absolutely agree with your assessment of speedy sleeves over a groove. As I remember the manufacturer recommends filling the groove with a hardening locktite. I dislike using speedy sleeves, especially on smaller shafts as a straight push on fitment. I found that the thickness of the sleeve imposed a higher load on the seal lip because in the smaller diameters the thickness of the sleeve becomes a significant fraction of the diameter. That resulted in higher seal lip pressure and short seal life. I prefer to turn down the damaged shaft to fit a sleeve which returns the shaft to standard size.
I have used a fair few speedie sleeves over the years and have always been happy with them. I am no machinist, just a bush mechanic and they are a good quick easy fix for people like me. I put a couple on the front axles of my CJ3A Jeep about 40 years ago. The axles were very pitted where the seal stops the diff oil going into the CV joint housing. They are still holding. I will admit it doesn’t do a lot of 4WDing any more. Max’s solution was much more betterer. Jeff.
A small bronze plunger with a hemispherical contact surface for the ball would be the answer for the detent ball me thinks Max. Nevertheless excellent repair. cheers
Hi Max, Nice video as always, just one thing mate, the sound is breaking up at the end of the video, not sure if its something my end or a problem at your end. Anyhoo, keep em comming, best wishes, Mal.
Max, thanks for the video. To me, that whole assembly seems to be really worn out and sloppy from the wear, or is that the way lathe gears changes work ? Notes from the layman, cheers.
Hi Max, nearly did the same to my Vertex edge finder the other day. Fitted a speedy sleeve to my mates Falcon years ago, rear main seal leaking. Waste of time, still leaked, found out torquing up flex plate bolts deformed the crankshaft seal running surface, Ford design problem, bolt holes too close to seal running surface.
G'day Max. Excellent video with the tig & machining. My question is, why didn't you looking at the job, use the LHS flat section to use as a starting reference for the drilling. The big bushing & cutting out the side relief looked good. Thanks for your knowledge & imput. Will drop off some material that will load the baring under the spring
Max could you machine the ends down on the shaft and put smaller sized ID with same OD in?? Or would that effect other parts that the shaft drives on or fits into, keep up the great work, From kiwi land.
I'd much rather watch an honest pull-no-punches declared review video than the end to end infomercial that many other creators have descended to.
Amen to that 👏👏👏👍🏻
Descended to!!!!! 😂 well said
Yep. Give me a man who uses Transmission Fluid and acetone over a man with a swimming pool full of free Evaporust any day.
No worries , Thanks 👍
Please don't apologize for a product review, your straight up to the truth about the dislikes of it or the likes of it leaving it up to a consumer to make there own decisions whether to purchase or not.....i e seen to many on UA-cam where they made a product seem like the next best thing to peanut butter and it really isn't 👍
Cheers 👍
I love the honesty of your vids mate. I've learnt more in half a dozen of your vids than anyone else on youtube except maybe ToT but he doesn't count coz he isn't Australian. Keep up the content 👍
Cheers 👍
Hey mate please don’t apologize for doing a review, most utubers do it! Love your content mate! From northwest Indiana USA
No worries , Thanks 👍
Max, I see no need for you to apologise for doing the odd review, after all it's your Shop & your channel, we're just "guests".
Those who are "traumatised" having to face watching a review can always "tune out" by "changing channels"...
And it's not like how other channels operate where they're constantly doing reviews & so can't be believed.
No worries 👍
G'day, fella.
I'm a pom, and we've got a 1938 Derbyshire lathe in our workshop as well as several other makers lathes, one of which is Australian, but I'll get to that in a moment.
Every lathe, milling machine, and drill press, you name it we got it, as well as 90% of our tools, all were inherited by my father in 1978 when my grandfather passed away. He inherited everything from his father going right back to 1862 when the business was started. It will all belong to me one day when dad passes, but I'm in no hurry 😏 joking. That was a joke, seriously. I know, bad taste right?🤭
Since then, there have been a few additional items dad purchased then more recently by myself. Items such as our brilliant CNC cutting tables, lathe and milling machine and welders, etc. Most dads of a certain age are no good with computers. Mine is no exception. He still prefers to cut and gouge using gas or weld with an arc welder or stick, as the Americans call them. Whereas I prefer plasma.
Anyway, the Derbyshire was overhauled just last month for the first time. In situ were a number of securing nuts with holes drilled in them. This was to allow wire to pass through preventing the nuts from being removed, and all had crimped lead tabs fixed to the ends, preventing tampering. This apparently was a government requirement back in the day for some machines that were used on government contracts. Why or how this was so important? I have no idea. I mean, what does it matter if the machines are adjusted? That's what we do. It makes no sense to me.
On each set of wires, there are six in total, there is an embossed metal tag, like an American dog tag. Each is dated 23rd April 1938, which is 26 days before my grandfather purchased it.
I remember the identical shift set up to yours as it was me who overhauled our lathe. 😁 You may be surprised to learn it's a common setup as I have found it on two other machines, one of which is Australian built, the one I mentioned at the beginning. Its called the "Advanced."
It's a bugger of a beast to operate right now as there's an issue with the gear box. When I have the time, I'll strip it down then try to get hold of any spare parts, which may be difficult since the company who built it is no longer trading.
Now, we could see your ball bearing was knackered. I mean, it was really worn out and pitted like a spotty teenagers face. That shouldn't be like that, the ball-bearing i mean, which is why it caused so much wear.
Between my spring and a very nice shiney ball bearing (original) is a bronze, not brass, but a bronze coupling much like what you were describing. The spring sits nicely inside the coupling while the other end cups the ball bearing, allowing it to run smoothly in all four directions with the aid of oil, which is drip fed. From now on, let's just call it "ball" instead of ball bearing.
According to dad, and some papers we found packed away in a suitcase under the stairs. Our company was started in 1862 by my great grandfather, who bought it as a derelict blacksmiths foundry. With it came ledgers, receipts, and order books going back the the1600s.
The man he purchased it from called Ernest Charles Colchester ( what a brilliant name) was a smithy from 1673 until 1746, when he died.
In 1752 a man called Arnold Cooper, also a blacksmith, purchased the land and demolished half of the barn so he could start a foundry business, to forge anything and everything of the day.
There was a high demand for sword blanks, whatever they are. Carrage springs, lanterns, and railings. Something else, too, hand bells of all things. According to some of the ledgers we have, hand bells were made in their dozens and shipped around the world.
After he died in 1836, the foundry lay dormant until my great grandfather made the purchase. He started off mainly forging iron gates and continued making springs for carages but didn't bother with the bells.
Great grandfather then landed a contract to machine cogs, sprockets, and straps for engines used in the Dudley colliery pit in the West Midlands. That was his first big major contract which started on 12/10/1862 and ran until the pit closed in 1968.
He had eight colliery contracts, the biggest providing equipment for a company called Bridgestone, who in later years built heavy plant machines used in "open pit mines" like Kellingly colliery in North Yorkshire. He also had a contract with Caterpillar USA machining parts for one particular model of mining truck and we still have that contract only now we manufacture seventeen different parts.
From 1919, right through until 1962, grandfather worked for the government producing many different militery parts for tanks, engines, vehicle parts including sprockets and wheels. Even parts for some hand held weapons, although the later didn't last.
After the war ended in 1945, he continued making parts for the war ministry, who later became the MOD, Ministry of Defence. Dad continued their work until the MOD pulled all contracts in 1982, not long after the Falklands war ended.
He still had plenty of work coming in but losing those MOD contracts was a hard pill to swallow. I officially joined the company in 1979, age 18, but I had worked alongside dad and my grandfather since I was a young boy. Machining is literally in my blood with all the machinist oil, shavings, and chips I've handled over the years.😂
Apologies, I went off pist there a bit. Stupid bastard.
To recap. If you design a holder like you said in the video, to secure the spring at one end and cup a brand new ball at the other. A ball of the same or similar size, it's not critical, it will last well after your leave this godforsaken planet.
If you have a piece of bronze laying about your shop, all well and good. If not, then I'm sure one made out of brass will suffice but make sure you use a brand new ball, that's key, because you need the hard smooth shiney surface of the ball and a little oil to allow the ball to roll, not scrape along. Got it! 😂
There were way too many balls for my liking. 😮
Cheers, and good luck mate.👍🏴⚒️
Thanks . That was quite a story ! Cheers 👍👍👍
That is the kind of video I like to see. Fixing a piece of gear, not just patching it up. Pretty soon we'll be seeing projects on the JFMT. KOKO!
No worries 👍
Max, if you are willing to record and post, I'll watch it. I always learn or reminded of something I need to know. Crack on Mate! 👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks 👍
Good one Max👍. Looks spot on. As for the reviews. I personally enjoy watching an honest shake down, and if you get to keep the tools, well that’s a bonus. Greetings from Amsterdam.
No worries 👍
It is nice to see you working your magic on the JFMT lathe. The handle works great,
Thanks 👍
Love how you make it all look so easy. You are a real master of the trade. Thanks Max. I will surely use what I learn from watching your videos.
Thanks 👍
Enjoyed this one greatly Max...My cup of tea...milling, turning and TIG' ing..repeat and rinse, restore function of a part, just don't get any better for me!✔
No worries Al 👍
🏁🏁🏁@@swanvalleymachineshop
Hello Max. That turned out well. It's the small things, like crisp detents, that make a machine much more enjoyable to use. The work you did on the detents is where digital readouts really shine. I sometimes use my Brideport clone with dro as a co-ordinate measuring machine to measure features on parts. It can be very handy. An odd thing I just discovered about digital read outs is that they are one of the few things that has actually come down in price over the last twenty years. A few weeks ago I found some old reciepts from when I bought the Mitutoyo read outs for my Bridgeport clone back in 2003. I compared them to the Mitutoyo read outs I bought last summer (2023) for my HBM and both the readout head (display box) and bars were cheaper in 2023 than they were in 2003. I don't know how they do it as just about everything else has doubled in that time. Ken
One day i will get a couple set up on the machines . Hopefully at least one DRO a year will get done . The Bridgeport & JFMT Lathe will be first . The Stanko mill already has one , an old Mitutoyo linear ( the size of a microwave oven ! ) 👍
Watching from down swingin pig way mate. Love your work. You and Curtis make my day.
Thanks 👍
I'm always learning new technical machinists' terms, from Max, like this eisode's "That'll rip your undies!"😹
LOL
👍👍
No worries Mate , Cheers 👍
Ouch, feel the pain on edge finder, too many things going on. time to get the "Sticky Pin" out.
Nice repair Max.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks . I knew i had to drop the knee a tad , but with the camera there it did not happen ! 👍
That JFMT should be good as new once you’re done.
Enjoyable & educational as well.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks Ian . 👍
Enjoyed…great discussion/repairs
Thanks Chuck 👍
Thanks Max. You sang my song when the edge finder broke. I'm pretty sure most of us have sang the song before. Should be the Machinist Anthem. lol. 2nd verse is Son-of-a ____________
Cheers 👍
It was an odd feeling because the view through the camera was closer than what you saw and I was thinking, raise the quill!
The review video was great. This was awesome! Thanks Max!
Thanks 👍
G’Day Max, so glad you sorted out that detent plate. Those things need to be crisp.👍
They do ! 👍
G'day Max, absolutely loved this one mate, saved it to my problem solving solving playlist, thanks for taking the time to explain everything mate
As far as the review goes, stick with em, you're honest and straightforward with them, show us a bit of kit we could use in the shop, and you get to keep it too, its a win win buddy
Cheers Mate 👍
I am glad I am not the only one who has a visit from the blue bird of happiness - Good onya
No worries 👍
Excellent video Max.
Thanks 👍
The point of no return... always adds a bit more stress :)
Nice fix, Max. That will work. For sure.
Cheers Rusty 👍
Enjoyed the video Max, great camera work, and as a bonus, I learned a new Ausie euphemism regarding undies! 😅👍 Hate to laugh during someone else's misfortune, but it could not be helped..... LOL!
Thanks 👍
That couldn’t of worked out any better. Just goes to show all the time spent setting up well worth it 👍👍👍👍
It's all about the set up in this game . 👍
Good one Max! Nice refurbishment of the wishy washy detent plate. That should eliminate any herkie jerkiness...
Good stuff enjoyed as usual.
Cheers...ATB...
Thanks Dean 👍
Video quality was excellent on this project. 👍
Thanks Tom . As you know , it's an ongoing battle ! 👍
Yep. I am thinking about getting the latest version of DJI’s action camera 4 for videoing.@@swanvalleymachineshop
Another good video my friend...... Stay safe Max
Thanks 👍
Max, yet another great video of a real tradesman in action!
Thanks 👍
Love your problem solving solutions. Good learning experience to trust your instincts. Thanks!
Cheers 👍
Well you nailed that max good job👍
No worries 👍
Hi Max. A day late and a dollar short I know but if you’ve never tried it, I’ve had tremendous success with tig build up of surfaces that will need to be wear resistant by clamping broken high speed steel drill bits and other cutters with needle nose vise grips and using them as tig filler. Works great. Try sometime.
Good idea . I did think about a hard facing layer with the Eutalloy torch , but the stuff is that hard it can only be ground . Cheers 👍
very good job friend max
Thanks 👍
Lovely little repair job Max. It's these sort of jobs that make the machine a pleasure to use, everything rolling then positively stopping in position. Had to do similar on the fwd/reverse lever on my new to me chinese lathe. It was like a wotsit in a bucket until I sorted the linkage and detents out.
Cock in a shirt sleeve ! 👍
Well figured out Max, great end result, looks bang on. Always enjoy watching you on the Bridgeport seeing the UK 3 pin socket in view, makes me think you are just round the corner so I have access to some bigger gear if I need it 😂😂. Cheers, Jon
Just a plane flight away ! 👍
thats a nice fix max.
cheers ben.
Thanks 👍
winner by feel - priceless
Cheers 👍
Yep - another WIN in my book too - Cheers
Thanks 👍
Very good video once again Max, And them o sh$t moments Happen to all of us from time to time I had mine last week when a part I was making ripped out of the mill vice. Cheers
It happens ! 👍
great work thanks for the video
Cheers 👍
I absolutely agree with your assessment of speedy sleeves over a groove. As I remember the manufacturer recommends filling the groove with a hardening locktite. I dislike using speedy sleeves, especially on smaller shafts as a straight push on fitment. I found that the thickness of the sleeve imposed a higher load on the seal lip because in the smaller diameters the thickness of the sleeve becomes a significant fraction of the diameter. That resulted in higher seal lip pressure and short seal life. I prefer to turn down the damaged shaft to fit a sleeve which returns the shaft to standard size.
Thanks . Yes they are only a patch up repair , ok on some things but not others . 👍
I have used a fair few speedie sleeves over the years and have always been happy with them. I am no machinist, just a bush mechanic and they are a good quick easy fix for people like me. I put a couple on the front axles of my CJ3A Jeep about 40 years ago. The axles were very pitted where the seal stops the diff oil going into the CV joint housing. They are still holding. I will admit it doesn’t do a lot of 4WDing any more. Max’s solution was much more betterer. Jeff.
Hi max, another great video, from kiwi land.
Cheers 👍
Nice fix!!
Thanks 👍
Thank you Max!
No worries 👍
G'day Max,, it just goes to show how much is involved in a ,,,, i will knock this over in 5 minutes job,,,,,, good viewing!!!
Nothing takes 5 minutes in this game ! Cheers 👍
Good win!
Thanks 👍
A small bronze plunger with a hemispherical contact surface for the ball would be the answer for the detent ball me thinks Max. Nevertheless excellent repair. cheers
Thanks 👍
Thanks Max.
No worries . 👍
Can never have too many edge finders lying around the shop 😈
As long as they are in one piece ! 👍
Hi Max, Nice video as always, just one thing mate, the sound is breaking up at the end of the video, not sure if its something my end or a problem at your end. Anyhoo, keep em comming, best wishes, Mal.
No worries . Not sure about the sound , will check it out . 👍
Gidday Max.
Cheers Graham . I will be over your way later in the year , will give you a ring . 👍
Thx for the vid.
No worries 👍
You also may want to consider trying to use a ceramic ball.
Well done Max!
Ok , never even heard of them ! 👍
Max, thanks for the video. To me, that whole assembly seems to be really worn out and sloppy from the wear, or is that the way lathe gears changes work ? Notes from the layman, cheers.
They have a little bit of slop ! 👍
my father work in accounting department of metalworks company in the past sir
Thanks 👍
I think I would have a Cold one and call it a win , LOL !
I did ! 🍺🍺🍺
Hi Max, nearly did the same to my Vertex edge finder the other day.
Fitted a speedy sleeve to my mates Falcon years ago, rear main seal leaking.
Waste of time, still leaked, found out torquing up flex plate bolts deformed the crankshaft seal running surface, Ford design problem, bolt holes too close to seal running surface.
Personally i am not a fan of them . We use them at work for transmission yolks on machines . 👍
I guess even the best wreck some stuff sometimes!
Cheers 👍
G'day Max. Excellent video with the tig & machining.
My question is, why didn't you looking at the job, use the LHS flat section to use as a starting reference for the drilling. The big bushing & cutting out the side relief looked good. Thanks for your knowledge & imput.
Will drop off some material that will load the baring under the spring
Using that edge puts the chicken before the egg ! 👍
@@swanvalleymachineshop
Chicken before the egg, Izzz the like Red Rooster or Kentucky Fried 🤔 😋 😜 😆 🤣 😂
Max could you machine the ends down on the shaft and put smaller sized ID with same OD in?? Or would that effect other parts that the shaft drives on or fits into, keep up the great work,
From kiwi land.
It's hardened , also their is an internal keyway so the shaft would be weakened . 👍
I do my best to reclaim my brass, aluminum, and other nonferrous chips.
It pays too , adds up over a couple of years . 👍
👍
No worries 👍👍👍