DRZ 470 Stroker Big Bore Review
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- Опубліковано 18 жов 2024
- going over my build and my experience with the bike's newfound power. I go over the details of my build and what my bike is equipped with. I take it for a ride and do a few pulls. this is straightforward and one off. I do my best not to edit my videos ever. you have any questions put them in the comments and I'll do a video about it even if it's just discussion.
#DRZ470sm #DRZ400sm #DRZ400 #DRZ470
I have the big bore stroker 462cc with a new FCRMX41. I highly recommend the ACT wide ratio gear cluster - by 5th gear your effectively in 6th, but 1st gear is stock. I installed it when I put the stroker in. Running 15/42 I cruise on 130 km/h at 5500rpm, it does that for hours on end. Mine’s not a SM, it’s an E with full subframe, and set up for adventure riding and enduro. But the wide ratio is a great complement to the stroked engine in particular (ie torque), and also the bigger bore
Thanks for the input. I was just chatting with a buddy about the wide ratio transmission as a compliment to the Big Bore Stroker on a future build. I also picked up an e model basically as a roller with all the parts including the carburetor just the stock fcr 39 and the stock engine with split cases. They discovered the reason why it wouldn't go anymore rod bearing failure and decided to give up on the beauty. I through in my stock engine out of the SM in it to troubleshoot the rest of the bike until I do my build on the stock e-model engine and I think I will do the full build that will mirror yours. How much clearancing did you have to do to accommodate the transmission components? What kind of cooling components did you install? Did you use an s model fan or did you install something more universal? What was the basis for using the fcr? Thanks again for the input
@@DRZWhisperer you do need to grind down the selector forks a little, but it’s not much, and they gave me instructions. I didn’t need to do anything to the cooling system, it’s an Australian E model which is a little different to the US version. They never overheat here even in 110F weather. I chose a new FX41 from FrankMX in the Netherlands because my 20 year old FCR39 had a small air leak in the mid body that wasn’t easy to fix, and after a few attempts I decided to upgrade to the FCRMX41 because it’s actually a much simpler carby and you can change the jets easier. I just run a single cable, the MX41 fitted fine, just swapped the bell mouth from the FCR39 over so it fitted the E air box. I’m running a 40pj, but still tuning the MJ. It’s a little big at 175, I think it’ll settle around 165 or 170.
@@ronanrogers4127 thanks again for the reply. Yeah I have heard that the mid body is a real pain. I also heard that the slides like to wear out over time and get loose. It sounds like you're plenty capable mechanic. It's nice to know there's some of us around that like to do it ourselves. I'm going to do a few follow up videos on my build and do some on the new build to share with the people that have this common interest. Please keep a lookout for them. I'd like to hear what you have to say.
Love your videos. I just got a 2014. Installed the lowering links, but can't get the front to lower. It's got the handle bar risers. I loosened the 8 bolts and it's honestly not budging! I can't figure it out.
Was going to get a T7 but since I already have the Athena BB on my DRZ, I think I’ll do this “ACT Wide Gears” and the Stroker 🎉
I have the FCR39 on my 01’ E, you think I’d need the 41mm..?
Thankyou for a great... and informative video :)
I had the ltz440 and loved it. Recently purchased a new to me 400sm. Looking forward to a big bore kit and possibly gears. I haven't been able to find them in stock lately. I like your style. Thinking about just getting a spare motor to add the goodies to and drop in when complete. Great vids keep up the educational content!
If you can find an engine to build that hasn't been oil starved and has a good head, you will be well served. I ordered my act wide ratio gears for my e model through the thumpertalk store. I had to wait to wait about a month, but they came in. I ordered through a trusted source on eBay for my stroker Big bore rebuild materials. If one is going into the bottom end adding the Stroker crank is just foolish not to do.
Doing a similar build. But with Athena big bore kit for a friend. Already had hotcams and FCR and MRD. But he over torqued his oil drain bolt and the case literally split at the bolt hole. So installing all bee bearings and crank...thats parts done and only thing left is everything outside the case on both sides and the BB. So all the easy stuff left. He sent me your video link....i think he is getting excited for his new engine.
as a big motorcycle fan, a big fan of my new to m drz, a big fan of proven / reliable engine mods, i really appreciate this video. 20 horse on a thumper bike is frankly insane. i wanna do this. maybe do the stage 1 cam instead? if you ever wander into my state, as a good neighborly Oklahomosexual ill show ya some good trails and roads.
I recommend it. Where at in Oklahoma are you. Find me on Instagram and let's chat about it. The FCR or Lectron Carburetor would be a big improvement with stage 1 or 2. This build isn't for everybody, it's expensive and not everyone has the skills to do it.
👍🏼🤠🇨🇦 keep up the great video,s. Gonna pick one up for the winter and rebuild it. I was a Yamaha guy but they dropped their wr250r and I don't like the fuel injection and air cooled so I'm gonna go with the drz400 but I'll be building a full on dual sport maybe down the road I'll try out the super moto tires but was never my thing because I like to just take off though trails so much.
I'm excited to see where this goes
I used a wide band o2 the jd kit jet was way off when I did the 3x3
Wichita resident here. I was watching thinking, is that the Kansas Star casino??? Wild lol
🤫
@@DRZWhisperer I just bought a KLX400 so I'm doing a few things. I'm sure I'll see you out somewhere. I pass the Kansas Star several times a year headed south for work.
@@jfreundST1 if you do Instagram follow me and at can chat and maybe I can check out your green drz
Just got my first bike; a 2015 drz400sm. Excited to learn from you!
Thanks Dayton! Follow me on Instagram and you can message me if you have any questions
Thank you for mentioning the pilot jet you chose. I have completely stock internals...but picked up a JD kit with a full yoshi and 3x3...they sent a 25 as a pilot...it breaks up just a little bit in 2nd/3rd higher rpms.
Think I'll swap her for a 30
The stock carb works very good in a lot of locations and conditions with the 25 pilot jet. If you do choose a richer pilot try a 27.5 or whatever the step is between the 30 and the 25 because that is a relatively large adjustment. Is it doing a massive amount of backfiring?.
@@DRZWhisperer Not at all. Just here and there...I've put 1200 miles on her as is with no issues. I'll attempt the 27.5 over the winter.
@@Iwasthewalrus well an occasional pop isn't grounds for a size up pilot. I'd advise you check out the thumpertalk jetting database for comparisons.
Your channel seems to have the best DRZ content on youtube. I have a stock DRZ, how do I get the best bang for my buck with the motor on a 1000 dollar budget??
There are stages of progression for doing modifications on the DRZ400 engine. They are not what you might think right off the bat. If we are talking about an engine on a brand new bike that's just been broken in and ready for its first service, a simple jetting adjustment from the stock gives you a pretty good upgrade to power delivery by way of throttle response. Most people use the JD jet kit because it has a few different combinations for different elevations and setups such as stock exhaust or aftermarket exhaust full exhaust slip on etc. There are other combinations that you can do to get more power such as a Big Bore kit or fcr carburetor. Some people combine those two but that breaks your budget. I would not recommend using a used carburetor or the knockoff carburetor available online for a plethora of reasons. Some people go for cams such as stage 2 Hot cams with the stock carburetor and stock displacement. If your plan is to eventually do some major engine work a big upgrade can be just the fcr carburetor. Brand new ones aren't cheap though. There's a lot of different options and progression of your build as money becomes available. I came from a converted Supermoto and was used to quite a bit more power so I found out quite quickly that just the carburetor alone was not going to be enough however it did make a big difference in how what power it did have it delivered it. For me there's not one single silver bullet that's going to take care of the job all by itself. I think I will do a video on this topic and I think I will make it a motovlog. Please subscribe if you don't already have a subscription and come along for the ride with me with the notifications on.
@@DRZWhisperer Thank. My bike is a 2019 with 2000 miles. I did the 3x3 and JD jet kit, but the thing is still pretty week compared to my WR 450. I'm a current subscriber and look forward to this video.
@@nvmcrider8475 yes I can identify with the comparison between the WR 450 and the DRZ. I have wrote a few wr's that I've repaired for people in my community and my yz400f is something of a wr itself. The stroker Big Bore components along with cams that would complement it in conjunction with a fcr carburetor would absolutely obliterate your budget of $1,000 plus if you wanted to have someone do the labor it's going to cost a substantial amount of money. My e-model engine that I resurrected had the fcr slant on it and it was in good condition operating my stock engine from my SM model so I decided to stick with it but Parts alone for the build with the wide ratio gears I ordered from act put parts alone over $2,000. If you take that and combine with the super motor wheels that I picked up had another $500 and a set of Q3 Plus tires which I installed myself, and I end up with quite a bit of money installed but I'm going to try that setup also very soon. As I've stated in my videos too many people get caught up in the maximum horsepower although if it's one's goal to do so you can chase that and do substantial head work such as larger valves custom grind cams and run race fuel with higher compression piston etc but for a practical platform so far the stroker Big Bore 462 as I refer to 470 for ego purposes only makes a pretty dull bike more what I think it should have came out like along with the fcr carburetor. With all of that said there's no way in hell it would pass emissions that way so they put the turd carb on it.
@@DRZWhisperer Thanks for the reality check. Maybe I should just leave it stock and not go down the slippery slope of trying to make it something it isn't. You might have just saved me a small fortune.
@@nvmcrider8475 the payoff of the investment in parts is worth it. It's not easy asking something to do what it's not designed to do. I would cringe to saw what a pro would charge. If you were just down the road I'd help you out because it's that big of an improvement.
Thanks for such an informative and detailed video. Do you have a ballpark guess at how many labor hours a shop would charge for the engine work you describe (and maybe even to add the wide ratio transmission)? Do you sell your services?
Advanced clutch transmission act, the company that manufactures the wide ratio gears, sells modified shift forks to go with the gears because they have to be clearanced due to the decreased amount of space due to the larger 5th gear wheel for about $100 in addition to the cost of the transmission gears which is about $600 and some extra. The next modification needs to be done to the case half also for clearance. It is not a big job but a necessary one. To disassemble the engine to the point of splitting the cases and rebuilding an engine may vary from shop to shop. You also need to consider engine removal and replacement if that's something that you would want a place to do for you. To do a stroker Big Bore with the wide ratio transmission, in addition to having the fcr carburetor parts cost could be rather expensive. But I think that the increased power especially in the bottom end and mid-range that it would provide with very much compliment the wide ratio gearing I have had input from people that have done just a wide ratio alone to a stock engine and be quite satisfied especially for Road use. I do sell my services some of my friends and local people that I know. Mostly I do my own projects as I am continually teaching myself to be good enough of a mechanic to get done water I need to do my advice would be to get in touch with your local shops and get some quotes. It's not a cheap job to have done but if you're going to do it or wanting to do it I wouldn't cut any corners
Have you considered different cams? i.e. RHC187 grind or web cams 540/539
Also did you use the standard valves/springs?
From what i've read, you may blow head gaskets unless you perform these mods. This is due to the increase in total upswept cylinder volume (with the new cam grinds allowing for extra decompression of the motor at the end of the stroke due to exhaust being open for a touch longer. New valves/springs required to suit this as the stock ones aren't necessarily rated for that level of lift). You will likely get a nice increase in torque by doing so as well.
P.S. your voice and speech patterns sound similar to Dr Phil :P
Thanks for the detailed message. I've also read those volumes especially on thumper talk regarding different cam suggestions however I have read also that the people that were running the stage two Hot cams with this setup we're running a 150 or 155 main jet on an fcr 39 MX which is what I'm running along with standard valves and springs. Some people also run an aftermarket CDI which increases the rev limiter and I think timing. That can definitely have cylinder head gasket failure written all over it. If memory serves they were also at a similar elevation which doesn't surprise me they had trouble. So many people want to run a little higher compression and they squeeze a little bit more out of it by using thinner and thinner base gaskets. They probably didn't measure squish. I am running a 170 main which tested good in cooler weather which means that I am a little rich and these hotter temperatures of Summer. The objective of this build was not to squeeze every last little bit of power out of it, but rather to have a nice usable amount of power with a touch of reliability. I've played the game of trying to get away with the highest amount of compression on pump gas and ended up blowing head gaskets. If you're going to be in that game you run race fuel and that pretty much means it's not going to be a street bike. This is a bit of an experiment. I'm sharing my results as they come along. Clearly there's a lot more power that could be got out of this setup with head work porting, larger ,valve springs, different cams such as the one you suggest. I think many people have failures of their head gasket because they did not resurface the head like I did in my build. I'm not pretending to be an expert engine builder, and I'm not attempting to rebut anything you've suggested. If I do end up having an issue with this I will share that as a part of this series. My justification for my action is lean equals heat, heat equals wear, and cylinder head warpage and cylinder head warpage equals head gasket failure.
Wait until the end of the vids to ask questions, you've already answered them :)
What part of the country are you located? That stroker sounds great. I am running a bb kit, stage 2 cams, an fcr39 and a Yoshimura exhaust system. I really like my DRZ400SM in spite of some of its issues. Thanks for all the DRZ videos they are entertaining with a lot of smart, correct information.
I'm in the Wichita, KS area
How often are you changing the oil on this for street riding? I have a 434kit and stg 2 cams in my SM and not sure if 1000km/600mi is ok or not
After I did my initial break in oil change, which was after a 30 minute easy ride, I changed it at 500 miles and plan to keep changing it at that interval. The performance of this engine is getting close to that of converted supermotos, so the service intervals, in my opinion, should reflect that. Making observations of the oil and filter, along with inspecting the spark plug regularly can tell a person a lot about an engine's health.
You mentioned crank bearings. Did you use the ones that come with the hotrods kit? I heard the failure rate on those is unreasonably high
I did in fact use the hotrods bearings. They have more ball bearings than stock. I I'm a firm believer that success of many components has to do with how you break the engine in and how you perform maintenance. Time will tell. Thank you for your valuable input. The point of this is to encourage this sort of discussion
Hi Dewey - where you get that FCR carb from? Also does it fit the stock air boot ok? Who all makes the big bore kits ? What brands is they?
First of all thank you for commenting on my video and showing interest. I purchased the fcr carb from a website called kehinfcr.com and I had a terrible experience but found a way to make it work. I would strongly advise buying a new one from thumpertalk store. It will come outfitted exactly the way you need it to and not have any problems with fitting the boot on the air filter side. All of these come with a boot that is different than the size for the mikuni stock carb so it fits correctly and a apparatus that goes on your intake port in place of one of the bolts so that you still have your vacuum function for your pet cock if you're still using that. Not just any fcr will work without an adapter and I don't advise getting a used one. I purchased my "kit" from eBay and the main components are the hot rods components mainly the stroker crank. This came with CP Pistons on both that I built and the cylinder itself was not necessarily branded. I've had my own Big Bore kits made out of no good cylinders on Yamahas I've done in the past from us Chrome and of course there's many others. The main thing to avoid is the stroker setup that has a longer rod because those can cause problems. The stroker crank and the counterbalancer needs to be checked for clearance. Remember there are no set jets that you will need for your setup if you choose to do this and I think a lot of people blow their new builds up based upon well I need this one and that one and I should be good. That is not the case it needs to be properly jetted and that means trial and error and having the skill to do it. I'm not a mechanic, I just play one on UA-cam and Instagram.
@@DRZWhisperer GREAT reply!!! Thank you on that - I would like to do this and the trans gears as well. Got gears turnin tho and thank you again the reply!!! GREAT VIDEO!
I need some one to do that job for me here in new jersey
It's a good upgrade that unlocks a lot of horsepower lower in the Rev range and as I said in my video the mistake that too many people make is getting these builds leaner and leaner to get a higher horsepower number. It's not a cheap build especially if you pay power sports mechanic rates for it!
So are you running 87 octane fuel with ethanol? Wish I had more mechanical skills to do stuff like this myself lol
Sorry for the delayed response. I always run 91 minimum. This is a 12.5:1 compression build.
How's your MPG brother?!
I'm getting right at 40MPG
What brand striker kit?
How long did it take?
Thank you.
MJBenoit
Good question. For the most part this was an eBay kit from a source that I've ordered other dirt bike parts from before it was a cylinder works cylinder and hot rods stroker crank kit with CP Pistons this one was my second build and for me doing it part-time in the evening took me about a week maybe less
Did you get the braptv kit from ebay and how many miles are on it now
I did. With the CP piston
We are just shy of 6500 miles
@@DRZWhisperer nice bro, I'm about to buy a kit but I'm torn between going stock or going 470, I currently have the 434 but I was worried about deck height with the stroker. Did you have any issues or did it go together the same as stock would?. Also did you go OEM on the main bearings or stick with the ones in the kit.
@@jessecrawford2711 Sorry for the delayed reply. I did have a single problem with this build and that was the base gasket that the kit came with. I think it was vertex but the material delaminated and I ended up with an exterior coolant leak last summer. Thank goodness it was exterior. I used the OEM base gasket when I put it all back together with a new head gasket. I checked the ring end gaps before reassembly and they were where I had set them and the cylinder still looked brand new. that was at 4000 miles. Make sure and torque the head bolts to 40Ft/Lbs instead of the factory 30 something. you have to check clearance on between the ballancer shaft and the crank shaft as indicated in the kit instructions at partial assembly. It is a good idea to measure your squish if you are concerned with deck clearance. I made sure I resurfaced the head to ensure a good seal with the bigger bore as well as replaced the valve guide seals.
Mine dies and has something bad bad going on rn Will only go 10 mph lol throttle not working
Well my friend I don't have a lot of information to go off of so all I can really say is that sucks. If I had a little bit more background information I might be able to help you walk through it and help solve the problem. Ultimately you want your throttle to work correctly so make sure your cables are working right and depending on what carburetor you have you may want to give it a thorough clean by removing your main and pilot jet and see if you have an obstruction.
Does the kit make it better for highway travel?
Honestly it does for me because it doesn't feel like it's struggling to go the highway speed. I think this upgrade would go very well with the wide ratio transmission which my next build will have. I may upgrade this transmission as well if I like it.
Yea O saw the kit is about $1500
I wonder how much labor a shop charges
Probably a lot
@@ricardogonzalez7687 I've now built 3 including one with wide ratio gears 🤑
Do you have a shop?
@@ricardogonzalez7687 no I just am a self taught mechanic that does a thing or two as a hobby.
No sane person says “ THIS IS THE JETTING YOU HAVE TO USE” 😂I challenge you to show me someone that’s said that.
If they have you shouldn’t be hanging around them.
People usually say “this is what I run”.
How didi miss this? All I have to say is I've literally heard people tell me this is the jetting you need to use and my reaction was the same.
@@DRZWhisperer some people get lucky and some “like me” buy an afr gauge, weld a bung in the header and still end up not happy with perfect afr numbers lol, I should just buy a FI bike.
@@merkel2750JD jet kits give you advice which jets to use at what elevation and temperatures... Get it on a Dyno if you aren't happy with the fuelling, that'll tell you everything you need to know
The cooling effect with fuel is only significant in air cooled engines.
youre incorrect! do some more research bud!
@@fastballfilms4214 30 years of being a mechanic and building engines. I’d say I have some semblance of an idea what I’m talking about.👍🏼
If you are running lean you're producing more heat, and heat is not good when you want to minimize wear. If you are running an adequately rich fuel mixture, (without being too rich) you are burning cooler, which reduces engine heat and in turn slows down wear.
Do you have a shop?
I am a hobbyist mechanic and I just work out of my garage at my house.
I dont get why you'd do all this extra work for more power... Why not just buy a ktm 525 exc or 500 exc converted for supermoto... Thats what my 525 is, also my ktm 450 for enduro has close to 500 engine hours and not a single problem so the engines are really reliable... Only changed the top end at 250 hours for a hi compression piston for peace of mind
I understand your perspective. On this and respect your opinion however please try to see the concept of this project through my eyes. I wanted a supermoto that has two quarts of oil capacity, carbureted, and a plethora of parts availability had a reasonable cost. For me that motorcycle is the DRZ 400SM. I understand that EFI is very reliable until it isn't just like carburation both have their strengths and weaknesses.. If you make a modification to how the engine runs even something simple like an exhaust you have to retune it and for carburation that means changing the jetting. Changing the jetting doesn't require a EFI flash or controller and dyno tune. The controller for the carburetor is me and my brain. It is rather convenient though if you have an auto tuner for your EFI where you make a change and then you can have it done that way. I see the potential in that. Yes it would be much easier to just buy something that's ready to go but there is no such thing. A 500 EXC for example has to be uncorked flashed and tuned and all of that.There are much more expensive motorcycle as well. I'm not just a rider and maybe someone that's just a rider needs to get something a little bit more plug and play ready but I'm a rider that wrenches and I appreciate the challenge of doing something and making my own project and doing it right. There's many people that talk trash on the modifications in which I made because they skipped over certain steps that I've done It in a very thorough way to prove that it can be reliable. I'm also doing this project in a transparent way. I did have one issue and I corrected it. I like the fact that you have your bikes the way you want them and I think that it would be only reciprocal for you to respect the fact that I like mine the way I like mine. We don't always have to agree but understanding where each of us is coming from is also valuable. How high did you go with your compression on your top end? Did you check your ring end gap to see if you were out of run out on the service limit? Did you check cylinder head warpage? Aren't those KTMs a single cam with rockers? I've never been in one of those but I've heard of the ones of old you needed to use a master link If you were going to do a cam chain replacement if you're not splitting the cases. I think they have since corrected that issue but that's wild. I've also heard of some people that really like their FS 450 or the comparable KTM 450 factory supermoto with the 16 and 1/2-in wheel on the front. I've heard of some people taking the 500 transmission as it is a six-speed and adapting it to the 450 for road course use. I think that would be an interesting modification rather than having a 500 not necessarily because the 500 isn't as good of a bike but just to prove that it can be done. Apologize for the long response and I appreciate your contribution in the comments.
@@DRZWhisperer tbh mate I can't remember what compression I went with as I did the top end about 8 years ago lol the 450 has a full akrapovic exhaust, hi comp piston and JD jet kit and is an animal compared to my brothers 2006 stock 450. I have the KTM 525 for supermoto and 450 for enduro, 450 is a 2004 model and 525 is 2006 both carb models... They is a way to get down the engine without splitting the cam chain but I just split it. I didn't check tbh still had loads of compression and power but I thought seen as it had like 250 hours on I'd change the top end. My brother had a drz 400, don't get me wrong they're decent bikes but for enduro they're abit on the heavy side and it was slow compared to my 450 exc but the drz is a lot less maintenance compared to the exc so it's all preference which bike suits you best
Wide open right off the bat🤦♂️😂
Put a 45mm carb. Eliminate air filter and Dynatek Cdi and yoshimura doble.. easy 65hp to 68hp
On a Drz 400? Never making that power. I've been in the cult along time and never seen higher than 55hp that's with head work, cams, 41mm pumper, etc etc. 60hp+would be good for 1 pass before it blew...maybe if you could get it there.
@@jmfaria450 Drz 400 make easy 47hp. My Drz 440 make 58hp and Drz 470 make 65hp
@@prbikegang6467 Why not just buy a Husky 701 or a KTM 690? With the upgrades I have spent on my DRZ I could almost justify the price gap.
@@jbird73 i like old school.... Drz ,RMZ or Crf
@@prbikegang6467 no they don’t😂 the biggest worked drz470 made 61 Ho with a huge amount of work and the best cams, the best head work, OS valves and all that. Not to mention hours and hours on a dyno, a stock drz E makes 42 or so hp a BBK makes 48-50 a stroker without cams would be closer to 52-54.
4:30
To what are you referring
Lost me at ebay kit
It included hot rods stroker crank CP or wiseco piston cylinder works Big bore cylinder, bearings, vertex gaskets and seals. Hot cams I bought separately