@@merkel2750My S model would power wheelie in 3rd at 30+mph with just 3x3, pipe and jet kit, running 15/47 gearing. No problem at all, not using my weight to preload the suspension or pull up, just planted squarely on the seat. Not sure why all these people are amazed with 2nd gear power wheelies, I imagine their bike must be tuned poorly, my bike stock would power wheelie in 2nd gear without issue.
@@markalan4026 I don’t know it’s weird, since adding my big bore, it seems to have lost a little bottom end power and instant response, but it can wheelie in 4th at 60-70 kph with just a little preload, I know mines tuned nearly perfectly too because I use an afr gauge to make sure.
Nice bike man. I have an '05 w/ a 440 kit, stroked +4, Stage 2 Hot Cams, full Yoshimura exhaust, Pro Taper's, etc, etc, etc. I bought it as a change of pace to my '16 Vrod Muscle. When I get bored of riding my Harley, the supermoto is there to switch things up. I've had many bikes over the years (CBR's, GSXR's, etc.), but the DRZ (IMHO) is the most fun. Peace.
I have a 2017 s that I do love but is a bit slow. Looking at some similar upgrades but am thinking it might be best to just sell my bike and buy something faster. Any thoights internet? Very cool bike in the video btw. Thx for sharing
Ever had it dynod? I love to see powerfigures I have the 434 cylinder works kit with stage 2 hot cams and a full system but nothing more. Looking into the same striker kit you have and now considering that JE Piston as well
Engine blew up so im gonna treat my bike and buy a kit i found online 470cc kit. Cylinder works 434 with crankshaft and all. But im still on a stock 36mm carb will this raise any serious issues? Need to wait a bit before i can purchase a nice fcr 39 carb
Just did something similiar to mine but im have some trouble. Did a big bore kit, stroker crank, stage 2 cams, fcr carb, exhaust is a pro circuit that came with bike. Oil fills up that catch can quick and spills out of breather tube. Im not sure what the hell is going on.
So basically the stroke kit adds 10mph more power for wheelies compared to the 440. Revs quicker to max speed? I have a 440 I can pull wheelies in 3rd but i have to rev it hard and clutch it. It will bust one in 2nd no problem at 22mph..When i test drove the bike I thought It was meaner than it was. Its no 450 fo sho..
To be fair... I weighed nearly 230 pounds back then and the bike was sprung to hell and back for the weight. made for issues with wheelies. I would say that it was worth it in the end. If I could have done anything differently, I would have gone with the RHC187 grind cams to make for more hp rather than torque, but it was a solid build.
I have always ran stock gearing as i like the tight ratio for backroads and track days. I have never had an issue in the 3 bikes i have built and they all saw pleanty of hard action on every ride.
@@Roccoo even with the plastic gear that drives the oil pump off the basket ? .... I'm looking to do a 470 build on mine also and get rid of these HotCams .... Put on a new 434 bbk with the CP 12.5:1 with the E base gasket so that's 13:1
@@Roccoo with under 8k miles would you recommend replacing anything or just put it together .... I've only done one track day on the stock cylinder stock bore ... I don't beat on it but I'm guilty of lugging it from time to time
Do you happen to have the part number for the JE piston? I’m going through the same build. I wish Cylinder Works would sell me the full kit minus their piston so I could save some money for the JE. Seems to stupid to do all that work and use their included cast piston
im working on it, i have a video in the works that explains why i havent been posting in a while. trust me, it wasnt because i didnt want to or for lack of trying. more to come!
That things taking off like a bat out of hell. Not sure about reliability. I wouldnt want to do more oil changes or valve adjustments. With these upgrades its probably more likely to have mechanical issues. Please correct me if im wrong. I would love to have a drz and take advantage of these upgrades if it meant it wasnt tampering with its maintenance schedual too bad.
This build was bullet proof! The Drz is way over built as was and can handle 50-60hp to the rear tire without a sweat. I only changed the oil every 3k and I abused this thing, I tired to break it! It saw constant redline, wheelies, days where I would waste 2 tanks of gas on one knee... There was no change whatsoever outside of more fun, more smiles and more sportbikes getting their asses handed to them at Deals gap. Look into it, I'm not the first, and I wont be the last to do it. There are guys out there that have clocked over 30k on this exact build with zero issues and no change in maintenance, including valves.
Just some friendly clarification. Your build is a 462cc. The 470 (469cc) required the discontinued 67.7mm (+5) stroker kit w/94mm bigbore to make 469cc. This kit also required either a .100" spacer or a special piston. People that don't really know what's what have tried installing the shorter "470" piston in a 462 only to wonder why they have no compression. This of course is because the special stroker piston is .100" shorter. I believe the JE compression ratio is rated with the stock 3 layer gasket. The +4 stroker kit raises your compression .8. Most people don't realize this as Hot Rods doesn't advertise it. Using the single layer "E" gasket raises your compression ratio to 13:1. That's boarderline for pump gas. A LTZ built identically would ping due to the extra weight/load under race conditions. I have a recommendation on cams if you're after something besides bottom end power. Without porting and oversized valves it's hard to get cams that don't choke off mid to top end. Web 539+3/539+3 do a pretty good job on a non ported/ stock size valve head. Of course piston to valve clearance becomes very tight and you have to set the cams at a wider LBA and possibly deepen the piston's reliefs depending on piston brand and base gasket. Once you port it and use o/s valves you don't need such a large exhaust cam. 539 is enough. The motor still responds very well to more lift on the intake than a 539 but stock springs are limited to .400. Kibblewhite will let you go a closer to .430 but at that point you are limited by the guides.
I want a Drz like this so bad but I would 100 % pull the trigger on it right now if they updated it because let's be honest, The Drz400 is outdated. Still a bad ass bike you have there !
i bought a 2017 new. im a new rider and already ate it with this bike. got insurance to fix it though and added a few things so far. but i have plans for this bike im tryin to learn all i can. so far i did mostly practical things like asv break away levers. warp 9 pegs, warp 9 shifter. pro taper contour bars new grips, pro taper aluminum throttle tube. only performance mod so far is a yoshi rs2 pro comp series full system exhaust and rejetted the carb. i believe in dont fix what aint broke so when it tires out ill do a big bore. i was thinking of maybe the 485 from max rpms. i saw your list of upgrades. are web cams better quality than hot cams? also is JE a good quality for the piston and one other question. what is the base gasket mod you mentioned
ok, the max rpm 485 kit, where it is going to make more power, you are going to be spending nearly twice as much for about 5 more hp unless you plan to send your head out for some major work. answering in order of questions asked. The reasoning for the webcam shafts over say, hotcams, yoshi or even a set of drz-e cams is souly for the benefit of the stroker kit. when you increase the stroke of one of these motors, you run into the issue of the factory cams closing the valves before the motor hits the bottom of the intake stroke and opening before the piston reaches the bottom of the firing stroke. the factory cams are built to be "nearly" exact to the motor with a few exceptions to performance. all of this is due to lack of duration on the part of both the factory cams and the aftermarket ones alike (apart from web cams). factory sm/s cams have a duration (time from open to close on the valve) of about 227*/243*, with hot cams coming in at 238* for stage 2's. where as the web cams are spec'd out with a longer duration of 272*-280*. That little bit more of degree in duration makes all the difference int he world for a stroker. not to mention hot cams have a lif of about .358-.340 and with web cams you hit nearly .384-.400 in lift!! (540/539 grind cams that is). for more info, look here --->www.suzukicentral.com/forums/15-performance-parts/80764-cam-specs-all-major-aftermarket-brands.html So in short, no, they are not better quality, they are the same quality but perform better in the bike. JE is a great piston company, personally I prefer wisco so I can get the pro series pistons (3 ring pistons) and a touch more compression, but JE makes forged pistons and I would not hesitate to run one. Really any maker of a forged piston is good but what ever you do, do not buy anything from namura! They are trash! The base gasket mod is a rather simple mod that is hell to do. Basically, all drz's, apart from E models come with a 3 layer base gasket at the bottom of the cylinder. these measure out to be about .030 of an inch thick or so. By taking this 3 layer gasket and removing the rivets you are left with two crush gaskets and a metal divider. you can then use one of the .010 crush gaskets as your new base gasket. this reduces your deck height of the motor and increases your compression... about .9. so say that you get a BBK and the kit specs out with a compression ratio of 12.2:1, by doing the .010 base gasket mod, your will raise the compression to about 13.1:1. this makes the motor rev a bit quicker and fell snappier over all. it will also help with hp to a lesser extent. the only down side is that you will need to run 93 octane. I never saw that as a problem personally. Hope this helps, I will try and put out a video on this at some point.
34.5 stock It made 51 with the cams I went with. With rhc187s it would have made closer to 54. But the cams I went with were built to make more torque.
@@keemoify typically they hold up well. When I had this bike I put about 12k on it and the compression never moved and this bike was ridden HARD up at deals gap. It's no uncommon for builds like this to last 24k+ miles without rebuilding. Just do the valves every 5k or so.
I ended up using kebblewhite valves and springs. After reading up on them for a long time I found that 90% of the problems came from a first run batch of valves that had not been heat treated properly and that a lot of people tried lapping them into place, rather than having new seats cut. this lead to premature failure and all the bad reviews. If I had it to do again, i would have used inconle valves because they are much more stable at temp and erode much slower than Ti or SS valves. Valve diameter stayed the same, no change in size overall.
Rocco Rocks I’m assuming after the stroker kit and low base gasket you had to upgrade your valves? I’ve had kind of laziness with my engine after doing a big bore and cams. Ticks really loud from the cams and it’s honestly slower then most drz’s with a full system and a good rejet
Nah man, there's way more room to grow. This was just off the shelf parts, cobbled together and tuned. BUT, it will go this fast, faster and do so while shooting sparks off the pegs on the inside of a curve while passing a sport bike. The bike was built to ride at Deals Gap, it makes great torque and good top end hp to burning up back roads and tight tracks. It will do all of this without exploding every 100 hours of riding or needing a oil change every 100 miles. But hey, if I had as many videos as you and only 174 subs, I would be reaching for the low hanging fruit too. So I can't blame you for your comment.
all the time and 💰 in upgrades why not just get a 450 motor cross bike ,i have a drz its a terd and I love it .like a good reliable fat woman always there for ya
Because I already had the drz. The cost to convert to a 450mx bike, convert the bike, get it tagged and build it reliable enough to stand up to the punishment of long, 100 mile days at deals gap doing nothing but dragging knee was unbelievable! I wanted something that would take the beating and keep running just as tight as the day I built it. I wanted a bike that was going to be reliable 50+ hp to the tire that would be just as at home ripping wheelies as it was on a daily commute. I have had friends with 450mx bikes that were converted, and where they are a blast to ride, there is always something going on with them. this drz hit the 50hp mark and ran like a top until the day I sold it. ZERO issues. total, I was 7k into the bike with mods and bike cost. For that it brought me a million smiles and was never down with an issue. to build a good, solid, clean mx bike would have ran me closer to 10k. As far as time goes, I don't know about you, but I really enjoy working on, researching and putting the pieces together to make something better. All of the work was well worth it, all of the time was well spent and I walked away smarter because of it. If I built another sm, the only thing I would do differently is that I would source out a K model to save weight. Honestly, I would probably just buy a frame and build it from scratch.
bikes been going strong for a few years now. I know the new owner and he flogs it. Secondly, I'm not the only confirmed case, in fact there are more high milage DRZ's making these numbers than ktms. Next
@@Roccoo put 3,500 miles on my 440 build with stage 3 hot cams, fcr carb jetted, piped and I lost part of the transmission when the case let go !! It’s a time bomb
probably not, I built the bike specifically to hit back roads in drive around town and do wheelies I don't really do any freeway riding. So really I don't need to spend the money on it.
yeah I bet I've just got the fcr 39 on mine with a full exhaust and 3x3 k&n air filter. I was thinking of doing hotcams next. Have you had both stage 1 and 2 or just the stage 2. From what I understand 1 is for low to midrange improvements and stage 2 is for mid to high end improvements. So I'm thinking the stage 2 is the way to go for me then if I want more low end power I'll go for the 440 kit.
i have had e cams, stage 1's stage 2's 187 rch cams and now web cams. i would say that if you are planning on doing the BBK then get the stage 2's. you wont notice a huge improvement right off the bat, but when you go bbk you will really feel it breathing then!
I've got a DRZ, and just don't get spending this kind of money for 50ish horsepower. Not only is it expensive, but it's not reliable. Just buy a KTM 690 or a Yamaha R1.
I had, at the time of this build, a cbr1000rr and street triple. The reliability factor was still extremely high and much cheaper to maintain than a ktm. not to mention the parts availability was second to none. This thing had the shit beat out of it until the day i sold it and never once gave me a single issue. this is not something you buy and build as a seasoned rider with out purpose, it is what you do to a drz as you grow as a rider. all in total, I had 2k in parts, including suspention, electrical, motor, dyno time and cosmetics. considering you can buy a drzsm for about 3k and drop 2k in it and have a brand new bike that makes good numbers, it is well worth it. not to mention the cams I ran for this build were heavily torque geared, 50 is hardly what this build is capable of. With Webcams rhc187's it sees 55hp. I built the bike to run at deals gap and to do wheelies on command without the bearing issues of a ktm, the maintenance issues of a mx bike or the lack of cornering potential of a sport bike. I was happy with it.
That 2nd gear effortless power wheelie, sick
My stocker gets up in 5th 49 tooth on the back 14 front
No clucth back of then hit it straight up
My stock e model would lift in third with no clutch or bounce.
@@merkel2750My S model would power wheelie in 3rd at 30+mph with just 3x3, pipe and jet kit, running 15/47 gearing.
No problem at all, not using my weight to preload the suspension or pull up, just planted squarely on the seat.
Not sure why all these people are amazed with 2nd gear power wheelies, I imagine their bike must be tuned poorly, my bike stock would power wheelie in 2nd gear without issue.
@@markalan4026 I don’t know it’s weird, since adding my big bore, it seems to have lost a little bottom end power and instant response, but it can wheelie in 4th at 60-70 kph with just a little preload, I know mines tuned nearly perfectly too because I use an afr gauge to make sure.
Nice bike man. I have an '05 w/ a 440 kit, stroked +4, Stage 2 Hot Cams, full Yoshimura exhaust, Pro Taper's, etc, etc, etc. I bought it as a change of pace to my '16 Vrod Muscle. When I get bored of riding my Harley, the supermoto is there to switch things up. I've had many bikes over the years (CBR's, GSXR's, etc.), but the DRZ (IMHO) is the most fun. Peace.
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what is your carb jetting ?
sounds like my 530exc thats what i love about it tons of torque on demand
Effortless pickup, noice!
its really pours on the power around 5k and the nose gets light fast lol
This is a great video, thanks for all the technical info in the comments.
Yo Rocco, how you been doing? Havnt posted much.. just checking in
Man that is awesome! That's my dream supermoto. How have your mods affected reliability and service intervals?
I kept the bike for another 12k miles before selling it and never a hickup. The next owner reported much of the same before he sold it.
@@Roccoo wow I kinda figured that it retained reliability. Can't ask for much more than that. Thanks
@@Roccoo man the drz is a resilient bike
Why do people sell there drz?
That bike is mental! So sick
I have a 2017 s that I do love but is a bit slow. Looking at some similar upgrades but am thinking it might be best to just sell my bike and buy something faster. Any thoights internet? Very cool bike in the video btw. Thx for sharing
Do you remember your jetting? I’m finishing the exact same build plus having the head ported and would like a baseline.
The exact size? No. But I remember I was w sizes above what was recommended for a big bore kit with 3x3 mod and mrd
@@Roccoo typo? Imm assuming you meant 2-3 sizes larger on the main jet?
Ever had it dynod? I love to see powerfigures I have the 434 cylinder works kit with stage 2 hot cams and a full system but nothing more. Looking into the same striker kit you have and now considering that JE Piston as well
yes! There is a video of the dyno day on my channel. made 50hp.
It sounds so good
hell yea man do a riding vid of u on pine mountain show the full road theres some fun turns their man
Engine blew up so im gonna treat my bike and buy a kit i found online 470cc kit. Cylinder works 434 with crankshaft and all. But im still on a stock 36mm carb will this raise any serious issues? Need to wait a bit before i can purchase a nice fcr 39 carb
Just did something similiar to mine but im have some trouble. Did a big bore kit, stroker crank, stage 2 cams, fcr carb, exhaust is a pro circuit that came with bike. Oil fills up that catch can quick and spills out of breather tube. Im not sure what the hell is going on.
Still have that bike?
So basically the stroke kit adds 10mph more power for wheelies compared to the 440. Revs quicker to max speed? I have a 440 I can pull wheelies in 3rd but i have to rev it hard and clutch it. It will bust one in 2nd no problem at 22mph..When i test drove the bike I thought It was meaner than it was. Its no 450 fo sho..
To be fair... I weighed nearly 230 pounds back then and the bike was sprung to hell and back for the weight. made for issues with wheelies. I would say that it was worth it in the end. If I could have done anything differently, I would have gone with the RHC187 grind cams to make for more hp rather than torque, but it was a solid build.
Rocco, I just recently bought a drz. I really dig that gauge set up. What set is that and where did you get it? The mount and all. Thanks!
quinn fairbank that would be a trailtech vapor in black with a trail tech mount. i got it on amazon
I've read that doing this 470 build breaks 4th and/or 5th gear .... You do the ACT or left it ? .... Any damage to the trans ?
I have always ran stock gearing as i like the tight ratio for backroads and track days. I have never had an issue in the 3 bikes i have built and they all saw pleanty of hard action on every ride.
@@Roccoo even with the plastic gear that drives the oil pump off the basket ? .... I'm looking to do a 470 build on mine also and get rid of these HotCams .... Put on a new 434 bbk with the CP 12.5:1 with the E base gasket so that's 13:1
@@IrnMaiden304 even with the oil pump gear. Never needed to change one.
@@Roccoo with under 8k miles would you recommend replacing anything or just put it together .... I've only done one track day on the stock cylinder stock bore ... I don't beat on it but I'm guilty of lugging it from time to time
My BBK only has a few minutes of idling and maybe 20 miles of riding roughly
Do u know the total cost of the motor build?
I think some of your re-entry tiles fell off
top speed?
Do you happen to have the part number for the JE piston? I’m going through the same build. I wish Cylinder Works would sell me the full kit minus their piston so I could save some money for the JE. Seems to stupid to do all that work and use their included cast piston
I actually found a CW kit with the piston mention in the vid on ebay for 399.95 free shipping.
Bro where did you get this nice dashboard from?
I wonder how it'd do with that 470 kit and a lectron carb
Way less power than the fcr lectron is stock size 36mm his fcr is +5mm =more air = more fuel=more hp
Does it overheat with the increased capacity?
How is the modified bike holding up reliability wise?
Yeah id like to know how bad it changed the service intervals
What did you do for "full valve train upgrade"?
Just found your channel, just found out you hadn't posted 5 months before this, just hoping you'll start uploading again.
im working on it, i have a video in the works that explains why i havent been posting in a while. trust me, it wasnt because i didnt want to or for lack of trying. more to come!
awesome sick dude best of luck with everything!
dude do you have videos of how you built it? thisis what I want for my drz, i seriously love your videos. link to the bore kit?
I'm going to be making a video about that here soon, the links will be in the the description
you are amazing! I hope you continue your videos youre the boss!
I was waiting for this video, I think I saw your post on TT
this is just a preview. im waiting on this rain to fuck off and im going back to the gap with it
Nice man. I'm looking forward to it, there aren't any other decent 470 videos out there.
That things taking off like a bat out of hell.
Not sure about reliability. I wouldnt want to do more oil changes or valve adjustments. With these upgrades its probably more likely to have mechanical issues.
Please correct me if im wrong. I would love to have a drz and take advantage of these upgrades if it meant it wasnt tampering with its maintenance schedual too bad.
This build was bullet proof! The Drz is way over built as was and can handle 50-60hp to the rear tire without a sweat. I only changed the oil every 3k and I abused this thing, I tired to break it! It saw constant redline, wheelies, days where I would waste 2 tanks of gas on one knee... There was no change whatsoever outside of more fun, more smiles and more sportbikes getting their asses handed to them at Deals gap.
Look into it, I'm not the first, and I wont be the last to do it. There are guys out there that have clocked over 30k on this exact build with zero issues and no change in maintenance, including valves.
Nice bike!
How do you like the hydraulic clutch?
I'll be at the gap tomorrow but still can't ride just going to hang out maybe stay for eosb and fiddy races
Just some friendly clarification.
Your build is a 462cc. The 470 (469cc) required the discontinued 67.7mm (+5) stroker kit w/94mm bigbore to make 469cc. This kit also required either a .100" spacer or a special piston. People that don't really know what's what have tried installing the shorter "470" piston in a 462 only to wonder why they have no compression. This of course is because the special stroker piston is .100" shorter.
I believe the JE compression ratio is rated with the stock 3 layer gasket. The +4 stroker kit raises your compression .8. Most people don't realize this as Hot Rods doesn't advertise it. Using the single layer "E" gasket raises your compression ratio to 13:1. That's boarderline for pump gas. A LTZ built identically would ping due to the extra weight/load under race conditions.
I have a recommendation on cams if you're after something besides bottom end power. Without porting and oversized valves it's hard to get cams that don't choke off mid to top end. Web 539+3/539+3 do a pretty good job on a non ported/ stock size valve head. Of course piston to valve clearance becomes very tight and you have to set the cams at a wider LBA and possibly deepen the piston's reliefs depending on piston brand and base gasket.
Once you port it and use o/s valves you don't need such a large exhaust cam. 539 is enough. The motor still responds very well to more lift on the intake than a 539 but stock springs are limited to .400. Kibblewhite will let you go a closer to .430 but at that point you are limited by the guides.
He's baaaaaaaaaaack
im still here!
I want a Drz like this so bad but I would 100 % pull the trigger on it right now if they updated it because let's be honest, The Drz400 is outdated. Still a bad ass bike you have there !
what made you pick that choice of webcam
i bought a 2017 new. im a new rider and already ate it with this bike. got insurance to fix it though and added a few things so far. but i have plans for this bike im tryin to learn all i can. so far i did mostly practical things like asv break away levers. warp 9 pegs, warp 9 shifter. pro taper contour bars new grips, pro taper aluminum throttle tube. only performance mod so far is a yoshi rs2 pro comp series full system exhaust and rejetted the carb. i believe in dont fix what aint broke so when it tires out ill do a big bore. i was thinking of maybe the 485 from max rpms. i saw your list of upgrades. are web cams better quality than hot cams? also is JE a good quality for the piston and one other question. what is the base gasket mod you mentioned
ok, the max rpm 485 kit, where it is going to make more power, you are going to be spending nearly twice as much for about 5 more hp unless you plan to send your head out for some major work.
answering in order of questions asked.
The reasoning for the webcam shafts over say, hotcams, yoshi or even a set of drz-e cams is souly for the benefit of the stroker kit. when you increase the stroke of one of these motors, you run into the issue of the factory cams closing the valves before the motor hits the bottom of the intake stroke and opening before the piston reaches the bottom of the firing stroke. the factory cams are built to be "nearly" exact to the motor with a few exceptions to performance. all of this is due to lack of duration on the part of both the factory cams and the aftermarket ones alike (apart from web cams). factory sm/s cams have a duration (time from open to close on the valve) of about 227*/243*, with hot cams coming in at 238* for stage 2's. where as the web cams are spec'd out with a longer duration of 272*-280*. That little bit more of degree in duration makes all the difference int he world for a stroker. not to mention hot cams have a lif of about .358-.340 and with web cams you hit nearly .384-.400 in lift!! (540/539 grind cams that is). for more info, look here --->www.suzukicentral.com/forums/15-performance-parts/80764-cam-specs-all-major-aftermarket-brands.html
So in short, no, they are not better quality, they are the same quality but perform better in the bike.
JE is a great piston company, personally I prefer wisco so I can get the pro series pistons (3 ring pistons) and a touch more compression, but JE makes forged pistons and I would not hesitate to run one. Really any maker of a forged piston is good but what ever you do, do not buy anything from namura! They are trash!
The base gasket mod is a rather simple mod that is hell to do. Basically, all drz's, apart from E models come with a 3 layer base gasket at the bottom of the cylinder. these measure out to be about .030 of an inch thick or so. By taking this 3 layer gasket and removing the rivets you are left with two crush gaskets and a metal divider. you can then use one of the .010 crush gaskets as your new base gasket. this reduces your deck height of the motor and increases your compression... about .9. so say that you get a BBK and the kit specs out with a compression ratio of 12.2:1, by doing the .010 base gasket mod, your will raise the compression to about 13.1:1. this makes the motor rev a bit quicker and fell snappier over all. it will also help with hp to a lesser extent. the only down side is that you will need to run 93 octane. I never saw that as a problem personally.
Hope this helps, I will try and put out a video on this at some point.
That bike is awesome! Too bad there isn't a 6-speed upgrade
for daily yes! but for single trach and deals gap, i freaking love this 5 speed
great drz man!
How much hp? 50?
It should have about 39 stock..
34.5 stock
It made 51 with the cams I went with. With rhc187s it would have made closer to 54. But the cams I went with were built to make more torque.
@@Roccoo thanks for the answer, how often do the piston rings gotta be changed if i may ask?
@@keemoify typically they hold up well. When I had this bike I put about 12k on it and the compression never moved and this bike was ridden HARD up at deals gap. It's no uncommon for builds like this to last 24k+ miles without rebuilding. Just do the valves every 5k or so.
Checking for cops... aaand WHEELIE!!!
Niiiice
Fucking A that's BAD ASS.
Yup, i want that.
If you had mirrors you wouldn’t need to keep turning your shoulder to see what might be behind you
Bike has bar ends...
whats the specs?
Nice👍👍👍👍
Are these stricly power ups or clutch ups. They look and sound like power ups but can't see your clutch hand much so just curious. B.A. drz BTW!
How did you get a tachometer on your drz?
Trail tech comes with previsions to hook one up, super easy to do
@@Roccoo where did you get the mount?
Hello! What brand of speedometer?
Trailtech Vapor.
Nice
fucking sick
Pls cover the break
what brand of valvetrain did you go with
I ended up using kebblewhite valves and springs. After reading up on them for a long time I found that 90% of the problems came from a first run batch of valves that had not been heat treated properly and that a lot of people tried lapping them into place, rather than having new seats cut. this lead to premature failure and all the bad reviews. If I had it to do again, i would have used inconle valves because they are much more stable at temp and erode much slower than Ti or SS valves.
Valve diameter stayed the same, no change in size overall.
Rocco Rocks I’m assuming after the stroker kit and low base gasket you had to upgrade your valves? I’ve had kind of laziness with my engine after doing a big bore and cams. Ticks really loud from the cams and it’s honestly slower then most drz’s with a full system and a good rejet
What speedometer is that?
Trailtech
I wanna bore my Drz, your Drz is beast buddy👍
Where'd you get the tach?
It's the Trailtech Vapor. I was wondering the same thing!
You need to change that gearing. Get the 16/38 ratio.
So basically this is the fastest a drz is gonna go lol
Nah man, there's way more room to grow. This was just off the shelf parts, cobbled together and tuned. BUT, it will go this fast, faster and do so while shooting sparks off the pegs on the inside of a curve while passing a sport bike. The bike was built to ride at Deals Gap, it makes great torque and good top end hp to burning up back roads and tight tracks. It will do all of this without exploding every 100 hours of riding or needing a oil change every 100 miles. But hey, if I had as many videos as you and only 174 subs, I would be reaching for the low hanging fruit too. So I can't blame you for your comment.
Rocco Rocks 💀💀💀 cooked his ass
@@Roccoo can i get a link to where you got the dash? Looped my drz and need another one because mine broke
Nice I like the mrd son!
thanks!
Need more 470 videos
Marco Chavanne sold mine sadly
have you seen its top speed now?
i have not but i was never really concerned with that on this bike. i have a cbr1000rr for that, the fastest ive had it was 109
I rode this bike a while back. It pulls like a train. Trust me.
wait till you ride it now with the stroker kit!
319lbs, 39hp. The specs are pretty average as stock... but still a sweet bike anyway.
where you from dude?
Pigeon Forge Tennessee
Rocco Rocks does your friend have his grom still. If so could you make videos with him he's a Crack up
MOTOhuggy bear my Channel can be found. Grom updates to come
thats the dude ^^
all the time and 💰 in upgrades why not just get a 450 motor cross bike ,i have a drz its a terd and I love it .like a good reliable fat woman always there for ya
Because I already had the drz. The cost to convert to a 450mx bike, convert the bike, get it tagged and build it reliable enough to stand up to the punishment of long, 100 mile days at deals gap doing nothing but dragging knee was unbelievable! I wanted something that would take the beating and keep running just as tight as the day I built it. I wanted a bike that was going to be reliable 50+ hp to the tire that would be just as at home ripping wheelies as it was on a daily commute.
I have had friends with 450mx bikes that were converted, and where they are a blast to ride, there is always something going on with them. this drz hit the 50hp mark and ran like a top until the day I sold it. ZERO issues. total, I was 7k into the bike with mods and bike cost. For that it brought me a million smiles and was never down with an issue. to build a good, solid, clean mx bike would have ran me closer to 10k.
As far as time goes, I don't know about you, but I really enjoy working on, researching and putting the pieces together to make something better. All of the work was well worth it, all of the time was well spent and I walked away smarter because of it. If I built another sm, the only thing I would do differently is that I would source out a K model to save weight. Honestly, I would probably just buy a frame and build it from scratch.
Please help, i have carburateor keihin 41 and kit drz 470 hotcams stage 2... A need how to jets carbueator
The cases won’t last with that hp
bikes been going strong for a few years now. I know the new owner and he flogs it. Secondly, I'm not the only confirmed case, in fact there are more high milage DRZ's making these numbers than ktms. Next
@@Roccoo put 3,500 miles on my 440 build with stage 3 hot cams, fcr carb jetted, piped and I lost part of the transmission when the case let go !! It’s a time bomb
is this in mph or kph
it is in bald eagles
lmaoooo mph it is
Looks like east tn
What bend pro taper are those?
HNNNNNNNNNNNNG
My stocker has stage 2 hotcams lol
atc wide ratio gearbox next?
probably not, I built the bike specifically to hit back roads in drive around town and do wheelies I don't really do any freeway riding. So really I don't need to spend the money on it.
fair enough just sounded like having the extra power made it eat through the gears even faster than with the 440 kit
it does, oh does it ever. but its a blast in the twisties!
yeah I bet I've just got the fcr 39 on mine with a full exhaust and 3x3 k&n air filter. I was thinking of doing hotcams next. Have you had both stage 1 and 2 or just the stage 2. From what I understand 1 is for low to midrange improvements and stage 2 is for mid to high end improvements. So I'm thinking the stage 2 is the way to go for me then if I want more low end power I'll go for the 440 kit.
i have had e cams, stage 1's stage 2's 187 rch cams and now web cams. i would say that if you are planning on doing the BBK then get the stage 2's. you wont notice a huge improvement right off the bat, but when you go bbk you will really feel it breathing then!
i want these mods
I've got a DRZ, and just don't get spending this kind of money for 50ish horsepower. Not only is it expensive, but it's not reliable. Just buy a KTM 690 or a Yamaha R1.
I had, at the time of this build, a cbr1000rr and street triple. The reliability factor was still extremely high and much cheaper to maintain than a ktm. not to mention the parts availability was second to none. This thing had the shit beat out of it until the day i sold it and never once gave me a single issue. this is not something you buy and build as a seasoned rider with out purpose, it is what you do to a drz as you grow as a rider. all in total, I had 2k in parts, including suspention, electrical, motor, dyno time and cosmetics. considering you can buy a drzsm for about 3k and drop 2k in it and have a brand new bike that makes good numbers, it is well worth it. not to mention the cams I ran for this build were heavily torque geared, 50 is hardly what this build is capable of. With Webcams rhc187's it sees 55hp. I built the bike to run at deals gap and to do wheelies on command without the bearing issues of a ktm, the maintenance issues of a mx bike or the lack of cornering potential of a sport bike. I was happy with it.
For all that money you put into that bike and it doesn't look that much quicker
close ratio gears and wasnt going full out on it.
I can pull the wheel up at 70mph on mine with just different sprockets
What sprockets?
What did you do for the valvetrain?
I seen this kit if it's the same one it comes with heads oversized steel valves with titanium retainers