I think that if you’re aware it’s a natural product you know that it will not work the same as other products. When trying a new product it really doesn’t make sense to use it on a bunch of things at once. It would make sense to try it on one piece and following through. To me, this doesn’t tell me whether this product is worth using or not.
The problem I had then and I still think persist today is they aren’t really transparent about what QCS is and how it works. At the time I made the video I was using soy gel, which works great on old and new finishes but I was excited to try the QCS, and it was obvious for my test that synthetic or plasticky Modern finishes were immune to the effects of QCS, but that older shellac based or possibly lacquer based finishes would come off with QCS. The biggest problem I had with it it wasn’t clear how to neutralize it and they recommended using more QCS to neutralize the existing QCS, which gets kind of expensive compared to other strippers, which are also non-toxic like soy gel. I tried using a degreasing stripper neutralizer on QCS and it didn’t seem to work. What did work was some denatured alcohol and the makers of QCShave since put out a QCS neutralizer.
The QCS team actually put out a video explaining why their products didn’t work and it confirmed what I had already seen because the video they made came out shortly after mine. ua-cam.com/video/ytYNI-tE1QE/v-deo.htmlsi=nk6fQdSW2LhoMk8J
Some of the pieces had more modern finishes on them and it plain just didn’t work. Older finishes started to peel within minutes but 15 minutes after applying on some more modern pieces and it was like misting it with water. Stripwell addresses this issue. ua-cam.com/video/ytYNI-tE1QE/v-deo.html
I did. Part of my problem was when I started dipping my steel wool into the QCS The wool was soaking up the solution. I want to experiment with a coarser steel wool to see if it holds less of the solution and doesn’t clog as easily. Offhand, without any more experimentation at this point, I would say that it’s important to do as much scraping to remove as much finish before starting in with the steel wool. I also do a lot of my work outside, and if any stripper gets too warm, then it dries out, and I was hoping QCS would be a little different that way, but I also found that it works quickly enough that spraying it on and walking away can actually cause problems. It needs to be monitored, so you don’t end up with a bunch of half cooked finish sticking to itself and to your project. I have a couple of more antique pieces where I’m looking forward to trying it and making some videos about it in the near future. So, please let me know if you have any tips, ideas or tricks because I’m always looking for people that actually have experience using the products.
I would also be curious to see more information from the company about the chemical process because I get nervous that there might be some solution left in the wood fibers and if it gets humid, would it reactivate and mess with a newly applied finish? By contrast, when I use soy gel, it’s pretty clear when it’s gone because you cook it with a pretty strong super detergent once the finish is loose and you’ve done your scraping and scrubbing. Like I said, I think there’s definitely a place for QCS and I have some projects coming up, these are old or more antique style pieces that will get painted, but will probably match up better with the QCS chemistry.
@@kennedymueller1788 Part of it will depend on how thick the finish is because I have had a lot of material come off a surface where I was using a big scraper and shoveling it into a bucket. Of course, steel wool wool makes sense to gather up some of that material, but even a coarse steel wool will clog up fairly quickly, and you will be throwing away a pad with a couple of passes would be my guess. My refinishing season just started so my videos about further QCS testing or a little behind but I did invest in four more bottles when they had a sale over the winter so I could do some serious testing.
Focus on one project at a time. Too much time getting back to the last pieces plus I believe this product is meant for paint removal and not stain so much
It is meant for shellac and older varnish finishes. I had multiple pieces to work on and I wanted to see how it would do. The QCS people admit that their product formula at this point doesn’t work as well on the more modern “plastic” finishes. I wanted to try it on some older furniture that has a lot of molding on the drawers and curves but it is currently below zero where I am and I have to hold off on larger stripping projects. I have some small panels that I intend to do more testing with in the near future that are salvage pieces and a good “fit” for what the QCS Class Formula can do.
I'm sooooo confused. A quote from Planes, Trains and Automobiles. "“Here’s a good idea: Have a point! It makes it so much more interesting for the listener!”"
The point was I had a mix of vintage and modern pieces of furniture so I was able to test QCS on different eras of finishes. It didn’t work at all on a more plastic (catalyzed varnish or polyurethane?) modern finish and the folks at Stripwell later put out a video admitting it doesn’t work on more modern finishes.
@@therealflippingidiot You did a great job. I could hear you just fine. I for one appreciate your time and efforts in putting out this video. It was very helpful for me.
@@beltonlana1 Thanks! I plan on making more videos and appreciate hearing that they help demystify either furniture flipping or woodworking related projects.
I think that if you’re aware it’s a natural product you know that it will not work the same as other products. When trying a new product it really doesn’t make sense to use it on a bunch of things at once. It would make sense to try it on one piece and following through. To me, this doesn’t tell me whether this product is worth using or not.
The problem I had then and I still think persist today is they aren’t really transparent about what QCS is and how it works.
At the time I made the video I was using soy gel, which works great on old and new finishes but I was excited to try the QCS, and it was obvious for my test that synthetic or plasticky Modern finishes were immune to the effects of QCS, but that older shellac based or possibly lacquer based finishes would come off with QCS.
The biggest problem I had with it it wasn’t clear how to neutralize it and they recommended using more QCS to neutralize the existing QCS, which gets kind of expensive compared to other strippers, which are also non-toxic like soy gel.
I tried using a degreasing stripper neutralizer on QCS and it didn’t seem to work. What did work was some denatured alcohol and the makers of QCShave since put out a QCS neutralizer.
The QCS team actually put out a video explaining why their products didn’t work and it confirmed what I had already seen because the video they made came out shortly after mine.
ua-cam.com/video/ytYNI-tE1QE/v-deo.htmlsi=nk6fQdSW2LhoMk8J
I think you were working on too many pieces at once… if left on too long it tends to dry out.
Some of the pieces had more modern finishes on them and it plain just didn’t work.
Older finishes started to peel within minutes but 15 minutes after applying on some more modern pieces and it was like misting it with water.
Stripwell addresses this issue.
ua-cam.com/video/ytYNI-tE1QE/v-deo.html
Did you read the directions that say to use steel wool for removal
I did.
Part of my problem was when I started dipping my steel wool into the QCS The wool was soaking up the solution.
I want to experiment with a coarser steel wool to see if it holds less of the solution and doesn’t clog as easily.
Offhand, without any more experimentation at this point, I would say that it’s important to do as much scraping to remove as much finish before starting in with the steel wool.
I also do a lot of my work outside, and if any stripper gets too warm, then it dries out, and I was hoping QCS would be a little different that way, but I also found that it works quickly enough that spraying it on and walking away can actually cause problems.
It needs to be monitored, so you don’t end up with a bunch of half cooked finish sticking to itself and to your project.
I have a couple of more antique pieces where I’m looking forward to trying it and making some videos about it in the near future.
So, please let me know if you have any tips, ideas or tricks because I’m always looking for people that actually have experience using the products.
I would also be curious to see more information from the company about the chemical process because I get nervous that there might be some solution left in the wood fibers and if it gets humid, would it reactivate and mess with a newly applied finish?
By contrast, when I use soy gel, it’s pretty clear when it’s gone because you cook it with a pretty strong super detergent once the finish is loose and you’ve done your scraping and scrubbing.
Like I said, I think there’s definitely a place for QCS and I have some projects coming up, these are old or more antique style pieces that will get painted, but will probably match up better with the QCS chemistry.
@@therealflippingidiot I watched qcs video that says use #0 for the initial removal on vertical surfaces.
@@kennedymueller1788
Part of it will depend on how thick the finish is because I have had a lot of material come off a surface where I was using a big scraper and shoveling it into a bucket.
Of course, steel wool wool makes sense to gather up some of that material, but even a coarse steel wool will clog up fairly quickly, and you will be throwing away a pad with a couple of passes would be my guess.
My refinishing season just started so my videos about further QCS testing or a little behind but I did invest in four more bottles when they had a sale over the winter so I could do some serious testing.
The steel wool is suppose to be dipped into more qcs and used that way @theflippingidiot7705
Focus on one project at a time. Too much time getting back to the last pieces plus I believe this product is meant for paint removal and not stain so much
It is meant for shellac and older varnish finishes. I had multiple pieces to work on and I wanted to see how it would do.
The QCS people admit that their product formula at this point doesn’t work as well on the more modern “plastic” finishes.
I wanted to try it on some older furniture that has a lot of molding on the drawers and curves but it is currently below zero where I am and I have to hold off on larger stripping projects.
I have some small panels that I intend to do more testing with in the near future that are salvage pieces and a good “fit” for what the QCS Class Formula can do.
Lopez Paul Young Matthew Harris David
White Mark Gonzalez Donald Rodriguez Brenda
Wilson Matthew Davis Lisa Moore Sharon
White Angela White William Miller Christopher
I'm sooooo confused. A quote from Planes, Trains and Automobiles. "“Here’s a good idea: Have a point! It makes it so much more interesting for the listener!”"
The point was I had a mix of vintage and modern pieces of furniture so I was able to test QCS on different eras of finishes.
It didn’t work at all on a more plastic (catalyzed varnish or polyurethane?) modern finish and the folks at Stripwell later put out a video admitting it doesn’t work on more modern finishes.
This is the video from a year ago and they may have updated their products.
ua-cam.com/video/6Ld0jmIuTdw/v-deo.htmlsi=PUvpzqjrHl3VXCyP
You move too much making me dizzy
Are you UNDERSTANDING the WORDS that are COMING OIT of MY MOUTH!!!! 😬 Please. Speak louder....t.y.
It’s a low budget operation and I don’t have a sound guy yet… or a microphone for that matter….
But I am working on it.
@@therealflippingidiot You did a great job. I could hear you just fine. I for one appreciate your time and efforts in putting out this video. It was very helpful for me.
@@beltonlana1
Thanks!
I plan on making more videos and appreciate hearing that they help demystify either furniture flipping or woodworking related projects.