Glad I found this. Was searching the exterior of my 2011 6R80 transmission for the output shaft speed sensor. Was driving me crazy not finding it. Found your video and turns out it's inside the transmission. Ugh. Looks like I'm going to have to take it to the shop for repair. Thank You for the video and explaining so well.
Gary Ferraro yes, I took it by O'Reilly's and down loaded the P0720 code. It was multiple times it threw that code. My transmission would not shift out of 1st, speedometer would not come off of zero. Could not go above 10 mph, or at least that's how fast it felt. Now, the check engine light is on, but the speedometer started working and going through gears like it should. Taking to shop tomorrow because I've never even tried to tear into this type of transmission.
Thanks Gary for putting this out for all of us! You are a very generous! I'm deciding if I want to tackle this job. My estimate for the job came out to $772 today (Fla. Panhandle area) not bad I guess from the comments but I thought it was high... from a $$ standpoint at least. I try to do about all things myself so it's hard to hand over control and money sometimes for me. Fingers crossed! Thanks again.
Just took my 2014 f150 to the shop today. My Leadframe has been going bad for about 6 months and my gear indicator light would always go out when the problem occurred. Last week it finally went completely out. Got a warning saying Starting System Failure. Before this I could start my truck when my indicator light was out by removing the starter relays cap and using a toothpick to manually close the relay. But after the problem last week, it won’t start. Mechanic said he just did an f150 2 weeks ago the same year as mine and the same issues as mine.
Gary...Looking thru this Ford job guide on this project...it says 53 inch pounds for the 6 bolts that connect the Lead Frame to the Valve body. (I believe you said 63...may want to check that)I'm in the middle of my swap right now with a small problem. I screwed up two of the six bolts... I hate to admit it, but for mankind...I will. I overtightened two and stretched then a little...was lucky not to have broke them. I did have a little idea of …"man this seems way too tight" before I figured it out. Soooooo, I'll get some replacements tomorrow and wrap it up (hopefully). I looked all over town to find a suitable substitute bolt but could not find the length I needed...was about 3/8ths short. I would have been willing to have gotten the job done but no luck. Believe they are a m5, .80deg, and (55mm) or 5 1/2cm long from the underside of the head to end. Oh well, I see a new lb-in torque wrench in my near future. So life's not that bad!
@@GaryFerraro the two are stretched and are now too weak to trust really. I'd sleep better if I knew I just replaced them. Ive got another vehicle for tomorrow so I'll get by.
Gary Ferraro Hey Gary... So I've got the valve body back on but that dang sleeve that runs thru the case to the Lead Frame is just not allowing me to push up that white (guillotine thing that holds the sleeve in place) I might be taking it too easy...afraid I may break something. Is there ever a need to give the outside surface of the sleeve a little tappy tap? the new o rings may be what is keeping me from pushing it in enough Sooooo I can push up the white guillotine. Not sure. Additionally, I'm almost certain the white handle is fully down and ready (to allow the sleeve to be pushed in) Any suggestions?
Super helpful video. When I pulled mine apart I noticed that the "range" sensor plate that slides back and forth was covered in ultra fine particles, would you happen to know if this would affect the vehicle whatsoever? My vehicle is doing a weird thing randomly on acceleration from stopped. Feels like it throws itself in neutral, no codes, engine revs and i just coast, scratching my head on what's going on. I've tried a flush and checked all components, the car barley has 65k miles.
Gary thanks for posting this. I just subscribed. Hey I have a p0715 code being thrown intermittently. I have had some jerking between 1 and second and today when coming to a stop it stuck in 5th and I had to start back in that gear. After that it shifted normally. I am suspecting the lead frame but wanted to see if you have seen the p0715 (input speed sensor) with these lead frames? 2012 5.0 with 171k....thanks for any help!
@@GaryFerraro awesome....i did watch your video and a couple others. I have seen where a couple folks used vaseline or grease on thermal element to help hold it in place. Is that a good idea? Thanks for the email and offer...really appreciate it
@@timk2853 As long as it's not high temperature grease because that will not melt when the trans heats up, i use a special grease for transmissions that melts when it gets hot, Called Transgel
Gary, are there any programming needed when replacing the lead frame? I plan on doing this repair myself on my 2012 Ford F150. Took it into dealer and said that the lead frame needs to be replaced. They want to charge my about $900 for the repair. I have some decent knowledge on tools and automotive repairs just never done transmission stuff before. Just want to make sure this a true remove and replace job and no programming or other surprises that i might run into. I watched your video and the Thermal part lookslike something to pay a little attention to. Thanks Gary!
No programming needs to be done, but you have to take a sleeve out to drop the valvebody. When the pan is down, look for a white tab towards the back of the valvebody, pull the tab down, this will release the sleeve and pull the sleeve out. If your not sure look for a video i did on tearing down a ZF6HP26 Transmission, this is basically the same thing. You probably have a speed sensor code
Thanks Gary. Yes I did watch on how to remove the sleeve. This is the same sleeve that i will replace due to it commonly failing/leaking. So this is just a plug and play component...? Thanks for your help!
Ford should repair it for free. This part was recalled on F150's manufactured in 2011-2012. "If an affected vehicle exhibits this condition, dealers are to replace the molded leadframe. This service must be performed at no charge to the vehicle owner." Check this link out.... ford.oemdtc.com/2679/16n02-molded-leadframe-extended-coverage-2011-2012-ford-lincoln
Kyle, I tried already and since my truck was out of the power train warranty they said I was responsible for paying every penny. If there is something you know of please let me know. Would save me lots of money. Thanks!
I have same issue. 2012 f150 ecoboost. I’ve been taking it to the dealer for 3 years they keep saying it’s not throwing a code, there is no recall, etc. That all started at 136,000 miles. Now I’m at 156,000 they finally admit there is recall but I’m out of warranty, and my truck isn’t throwing a code! I went ahead and ordered the parts they quoted me $750 to fix it w/labor but I’m not done with them yet…..
Gary Ferraro I just replaced mine on a 2009 and it doesn't shift . Does it need to recalibrate or you think I got the wrong part ? Hope you can help me plz
I am in the middle of installing the lead frame and the new one comes with a foam strip that goes over the connectors. I haven’t seen that anywhere yet. My old one didn’t have one but I’m assuming I need to install it? Great video by they way! Saved me over 1k! Dealer was going to charge me 1,500.
Gary Ferraro I forgot to take a picture but I installed the lead frame with the foam. Trucks been running strong for nearly 20k. Thanks again for this video. I couldn’t afford to pay the dealer 2k. I was paddles up that crap creek.
Hi Gary, thanks for the great video.Has made my transmission repair a lot easier. Have taken out the valve body on my 2014 Ford Territory with the 6R80 transmission 3 times now because of contaminated transmission fluid. Necessary after 80,000 klms because Ford says the transmission is sealed for life and no fluid change is required.Lots of grey paste around the pan magnet. Problem being, I experience a stutter in the gear change from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to fourth under light acceleration. No error codes on the dash.I am guessing the contaminated oil ,prior to the 80,000klm inspection, has clogged either the solenoids or valve body channels.Solenoids have been cleaned but has not fixed the problem.Is it possible to separate the valve body to inspect the inside components for clogging? Under hard acceleration the gear change is smooth and has no stutter. Any advice would be appreciated. Located in Australia. thanks .Martin
Today my truck (2011 F150) lost all power and got stuck in 5th. I disconnected battery and that reset everything and got me home. My truck is just out of the extended coverage by 12k miles (162k) When it does it again I am going to go to ford and see if they will goodwill it for me but if/when they won't likely be doing it myself and this video was very helpful. Thank you
Hey sir. Thanks for the great video. Any thoughts on just changing out the valve body with an updated/new one at the same time as replacing a lead frame? Seems to me while in there it’s not a half bad idea...thoughts?
Just took mine to Ford was having transmission problems and electrical dash problems. Turns out they are replacing this part free of charge because ford just put out an extended warranty for 10 years or 150,000 miles for this part. I get it back tomorrow hopefully they fixed problem.
Yes I just got back from the dealer today. They replaced the lead frame at no charge because it’s covered under an extended warranty that ford put on them. They said the year of my truck and where it was built determines if it has the extended warranty. I have a 2013 f150.
my 2011 lariat limited, started to act up. sometimes whenever it decides to, it wouldn't shift into reverse the R on my dash wouldnt illuminate and if you go into drive the wrench light pops up and if you try driving, it wont shift above 1st gear. I had to turn the truck off and a on a few times to clear it and also let it warm up good enough for it to work right, took it to the dealer and they said it was the lead frame plate and that it was a $700 part..I looked online and seen there was a recall issued April 2016 for the lead frame on the 2011-2012 and its suppose to be a free fix ...but what the description says about the recall is different from what my truck is doing..sooooooooo
My 2012 F-150 Lariat (manufactured late 2011) exhibited your symptoms too, plus others. It has done the following: 1: gear ceases to be displayed on HUD 2: fails to start from a stopped position in first gear (accelerates from 0 MPH in 6th gear) 3: SPEEDO immediately drops from current driving speed to 0MPH (instant, no delay) accompanied by a downshift to 1st gear, then back up instantly (less than 1 second) [when this happened I was pitched forward into my restraint, and I thought for sure initially that someone had rear-ended me] 4: SPEEDO immediately drops from current driving speed to 0MPH (instant, no delay) accompanied by a downshift to 1st gear, then stays there until you turn the truck off and restart the truck (have to completely turn off till the hud goes blank) [I sort of feel that 3 and 4 are secondary symptoms and not to do with the actual problem - but that under no circumstances should a vehicle drop from a high gear to a low gear like this. It is an unsafe condition and in fact when it happened to me, I was pitched forward into my restraint, my rear tires spun, I lost control of the vehicle and drifted out of my lane... thank God the people around me moved out of the way.] 5: while driving in D shift, the truck fails to downshift or upshift, resulting in underpowered condition or over-revving. 6: HUD goes blank, then a wrench symbol appears that does not go away until you turn the vehicle off and on again it's at the dealership now, and I don't recall what they said they are doing to fix it, but they said it would be between $1,500 and $1,600 to repair. My truck was also NOT included in the recall you mentioned which calls for a new lead frame and update to the PCM The following is from the recall letter regarding 2011-2012 Ford F-150 trucks being recalled: The Fix: Dealers will inspect the powertrain control module for diagnostic trouble codes tied to the issue. If no related diagnostic trouble codes are present, dealers will update the powertrain control module software, which will eliminate the condition. Additionally, as part of the corresponding customer satisfaction program, Ford will provide a one-time replacement of the lead frame at no charge within 10 years or 150,000 miles from the warranty start date. If related diagnostic trouble codes are present, dealers will update the powertrain control module software and replace the lead frame for free. I feel like my truck failure needs to be examined and considered for inclusion in this recall, but I don't know how to get that to happen. I have registered a customer complaint with Ford's customer service department, and with NHTSA. The dealership does not seem to care except to get me off their repair list. Does anyone know if there is another avenue to submit a grievance to be considered for extension of a recall?
@@ligaire I'm having the same random symptoms in my 12' Expedition. There is a recall for mine, but it's not throwing any codes, therefore the dealer wont replace it under the recall. What did you end up doing, if anything?
What happened is when I am driving the speedo meter will drop down to 0 and the transmission will move to the 5 or 3 gear and this is the only gears it will have , also on the other instrument panel will appear the signal of need service , can you please advice , I am using Whatsup
@@jovensdenegociostv You probably have code P0720 or P0722 for output speed sensor which is on the conductor plate which is bolted to the valvebody. You need the plate but currently very hard to get, you may find something online. Google 6R80 Conductor plate
I have a 2013 f150 6R80 lead frame issue. my local ford dealer told me the lead frame needed to be ordered by vin# and needed to be programed. 1- does it need to be programed 2- if so, does it come programmed or is it done after install? 3- is OEM part better to use for this? 4- thoughts on the Dorman brand for this part?
Does not need programming, When these units first came out the TCM was in the lead frame, around 2010ish they eliminated the TCM from the lead frame, so there is really only one for your car. If you cannot get OE(very hard) then dorman lead frame will work (thats what i currently use).
@@GaryFerraro my truck runs fine for a while then i could stop at a traffic light and then may not shift out of first or just stay in third or 4th. stop on the side the road and turn the truck off then it starts working fine. not sure whats going on
Hi Gary, please advise I have harsh 1-2, 2-3 shifts on my Navi 12'MY 6r80..... Replaced fluid few times and filter as well, updated PCM to latest level and relearned KAM, but that did not help at all. Also no errors related to transmission or engine in memory via Ford IDS. What can you recommend to check next? I am thinking of buying a new solenoids set, or is it better to buy a new valve body assembly assuming my molded leadframe supposed to be replaced? Thank you
valvebody and solenoids do have issues. if nothing happened when memory was reset very possible valvebody or solenoids, may want to get the setup instead of just solenoids
So I removed and replaced the lead frame on my 2013 F-150, and got it all put back together and now the truck will not start. It has full power but absolutely will not start or even try to turn over. Any ideas?
I think i've found the problem, the shift linkage part isn't installed correctly. I tried moving it out of gear and it's locked in park, so looks as though truck is in some kind of fail-safe mode not letting it turn over. Gonna pull it out again and try again.
Ok, I just checked again and tried to shift into the gears without starting the truck and now it seems to be working correctly. Before, when I tried to put it in reverse or any other gear, it wouldn't budge out of park. It was as though it was locked in park. This is my brothers truck and he's doing the job, so i'm more or less just typing what he's asking. But I did get down there and check it for him just now and now it seems to be working correctly. I'll have him button it all up and see if it'll start this time. I believe he had the element upside down as well. There's another video that some guy has that's showing the element to be up and spring down. I showed him your video and that the spring needs to go up first.
Gary Ferraro 2011 f150 6.2 6r80 I have a code p0705 (trans range sensor) and since the sensor is part of the lead frame I’m assuming it needs to be changed.
@gary ferraro I’ll be replacing the molded leadframe this weekend, but will be replacing the valve body as well because i think thats where the issues are. However, when replacing the valvebody, is there any programming needed? Or any sort of special way i need to let the fluid disperse throughout the new valvebody? I know the fluid expands when hot but i wanted to make sure. Also, does my truck need to be in neutral while doing this? Have a 2011 Ford F150 5.0. Thanks
Do you have any codes? Why replace lead frame and valvebody? If your ordering a valvebody through your vin number, may have to program in the solenoid strategy and body I.D But i would drive it first and see how it works
I have a new lead frame and valve body kit with all the solenoids... i have Solenoid E code P0770 ... I could be wrong.. but it seems like it’s best to just change it all.. 160,000 miles on the 2011 Raptor... I feel like I’m maybe wasting money.. $1700 roughly for everything including labor
with 160K sure thats fine, known for valvebody problem, did you diagnose that the problem is in the trans? Solenoid E is SS1 only on/off solenoid in the trans, did you ohm the solenoid?
Hey Gary I just replaced this lead frame and I'm STILL having the same issue with the same code I bought the part from Ford so the replacement should be good what should I check next!?... 11 f150 6r80 ( staying in 5th and 1st rarely 3rd or will shift to those gears while driving, wiring looks decent) when running properly everything is smooth
@@vhuert10 Ok, just to confirm, you did clear the code and came back? If so how fast did come back? are there any other codes? What is the engine size?
I just swapped out my lead frame, now my truck starts, but it will not move when putting it into gear. I did the cold service fill for the putting fluid into the transmission, but now I am getting this error: P0765 Shift Solenoid D Malfunction. This code didn't show up any other time before switching out the lead frame. Anyone have any suggestions, I am at a loss for fixing my truck.
@@GaryFerraro Problem solved! Apparently Autozone had no idea which filter I needed, they gave me the 1.5 inch intake tube version and I needed the 1 inch version. Changed that and it works perfectly now! Thanks for the help anyways!
ok, do they make a holder so i can put the phone on a tripod? Thanks for the info. I,m so busy with transmissions, i have no time to research anything else.
Not sure how tall/sturdy of one you need, but this one may work out for you. www.amazon.com/Fotopro-Aluminum-Bluetooth-Control-Samsung/dp/B01MTMS8GN/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1533041110&sr=8-8&keywords=phone+tripod
Glad I found this. Was searching the exterior of my 2011 6R80 transmission for the output shaft speed sensor. Was driving me crazy not finding it. Found your video and turns out it's inside the transmission. Ugh. Looks like I'm going to have to take it to the shop for repair. Thank You for the video and explaining so well.
Your welcome, where are you located? Common problem with this unit
Gary Ferraro I'm near Galveston Texas.
Ok, just wondering if you were near me, im in new york, do you have an output speed sensor code?
Gary Ferraro yes, I took it by O'Reilly's and down loaded the P0720 code. It was multiple times it threw that code. My transmission would not shift out of 1st, speedometer would not come off of zero. Could not go above 10 mph, or at least that's how fast it felt. Now, the check engine light is on, but the speedometer started working and going through gears like it should. Taking to shop tomorrow because I've never even tried to tear into this type of transmission.
let me know what they say and how much the repair is
Thanks Gary for putting this out for all of us! You are a very generous! I'm deciding if I want to tackle this job. My estimate for the job came out to $772 today (Fla. Panhandle area) not bad I guess from the comments but I thought it was high... from a $$ standpoint at least. I try to do about all things myself so it's hard to hand over control and money sometimes for me. Fingers crossed! Thanks again.
That's actually not bad price, but if you decide to try yourself and have any questions just let me know
@@GaryFerraro thanks Gary, will do
welcome
Just took my 2014 f150 to the shop today. My Leadframe has been going bad for about 6 months and my gear indicator light would always go out when the problem occurred. Last week it finally went completely out. Got a warning saying Starting System Failure. Before this I could start my truck when my indicator light was out by removing the starter relays cap and using a toothpick to manually close the relay. But after the problem last week, it won’t start. Mechanic said he just did an f150 2 weeks ago the same year as mine and the same issues as mine.
The Lead Frame also has the Neutral switch built into the lead frame, if that failed the car will not start
Gary...Looking thru this Ford job guide on this project...it says 53 inch pounds for the 6 bolts that connect the Lead Frame to the Valve body. (I believe you said 63...may want to check that)I'm in the middle of my swap right now with a small problem. I screwed up two of the six bolts... I hate to admit it, but for mankind...I will. I overtightened two and stretched then a little...was lucky not to have broke them. I did have a little idea of …"man this seems way too tight" before I figured it out. Soooooo, I'll get some replacements tomorrow and wrap it up (hopefully). I looked all over town to find a suitable substitute bolt but could not find the length I needed...was about 3/8ths short. I would have been willing to have gotten the job done but no luck. Believe they are a m5, .80deg, and (55mm) or 5 1/2cm long from the underside of the head to end. Oh well, I see a new lb-in torque wrench in my near future. So life's not that bad!
Will check on the torque spec, i have the ATSG manual. They are not aluminum bolts, can you just loosen them and retighten ?
@@GaryFerraro the two are stretched and are now too weak to trust really. I'd sleep better if I knew I just replaced them. Ive got another vehicle for tomorrow so I'll get by.
ok, let me know how it works out
Gary Ferraro Hey Gary... So I've got the valve body back on but that dang sleeve that runs thru the case to the Lead Frame is just not allowing me to push up that white (guillotine thing that holds the sleeve in place) I might be taking it too easy...afraid I may break something. Is there ever a need to give the outside surface of the sleeve a little tappy tap? the new o rings may be what is keeping me from pushing it in enough Sooooo I can push up the white guillotine. Not sure. Additionally, I'm almost certain the white handle is fully down and ready (to allow the sleeve to be pushed in) Any suggestions?
Try wiggling the sleeve or take a small pry bar and push back on the sleeve while trying to push the white tab up. Is this a new sleeve?
My ranger started playing up. Leadframe OSS issue. Ford wanted to charge me to recondition the whole box for 8000$. I fixed it myself with this video
You get 2 thumbs up my friend, Good job
Super helpful video.
When I pulled mine apart I noticed that the "range" sensor plate that slides back and forth was covered in ultra fine particles, would you happen to know if this would affect the vehicle whatsoever? My vehicle is doing a weird thing randomly on acceleration from stopped. Feels like it throws itself in neutral, no codes, engine revs and i just coast, scratching my head on what's going on. I've tried a flush and checked all components, the car barley has 65k miles.
Gary thanks for posting this. I just subscribed. Hey I have a p0715 code being thrown intermittently. I have had some jerking between 1 and second and today when coming to a stop it stuck in 5th and I had to start back in that gear. After that it shifted normally. I am suspecting the lead frame but wanted to see if you have seen the p0715 (input speed sensor) with these lead frames? 2012 5.0 with 171k....thanks for any help!
That sensor is part of the lead frame, i would say that it's no good, not to bad to change
@@GaryFerraro Thanks Gary...that's what I am hoping...purchased all the parts today and will be tackling this weekend. wish me luck lol
@@timk2853 Will have a thermal element fall out when the valvebody comes down, watch for that. If you get stuck e-mail is
gsferraro@yahoo.com
@@GaryFerraro awesome....i did watch your video and a couple others. I have seen where a couple folks used vaseline or grease on thermal element to help hold it in place. Is that a good idea? Thanks for the email and offer...really appreciate it
@@timk2853 As long as it's not high temperature grease because that will not melt when the trans heats up, i use a special grease for transmissions that melts when it gets hot, Called Transgel
I am buying an 11 6.2L F150. It was flashed but thinking of doing this as PM.
Gary, are there any programming needed when replacing the lead frame? I plan on doing this repair myself on my 2012 Ford F150. Took it into dealer and said that the lead frame needs to be replaced. They want to charge my about $900 for the repair. I have some decent knowledge on tools and automotive repairs just never done transmission stuff before. Just want to make sure this a true remove and replace job and no programming or other surprises that i might run into. I watched your video and the Thermal part lookslike something to pay a little attention to. Thanks Gary!
No programming needs to be done, but you have to take a sleeve out to drop the valvebody. When the pan is down, look for a white tab towards the back of the valvebody, pull the tab down, this will release the sleeve and pull the sleeve out. If your not sure look for a video i did on tearing down a ZF6HP26 Transmission, this is basically the same thing. You probably have a speed sensor code
Thanks Gary. Yes I did watch on how to remove the sleeve. This is the same sleeve that i will replace due to it commonly failing/leaking. So this is just a plug and play component...? Thanks for your help!
Ford should repair it for free. This part was recalled on F150's manufactured in 2011-2012. "If an affected vehicle exhibits this condition, dealers are to replace the molded leadframe. This service must be performed at no charge to the vehicle owner."
Check this link out....
ford.oemdtc.com/2679/16n02-molded-leadframe-extended-coverage-2011-2012-ford-lincoln
Kyle, I tried already and since my truck was out of the power train warranty they said I was responsible for paying every penny. If there is something you know of please let me know. Would save me lots of money. Thanks!
I have same issue. 2012 f150 ecoboost. I’ve been taking it to the dealer for 3 years they keep saying it’s not throwing a code, there is no recall, etc. That all started at 136,000 miles. Now I’m at 156,000 they finally admit there is recall but I’m out of warranty, and my truck isn’t throwing a code! I went ahead and ordered the parts they quoted me $750 to fix it w/labor but I’m not done with them yet…..
Hello there. Is there a video of removal from the transmission and reinstall? Thanks again for the video!
Not at the moment, do you have to remove the valvebody?
very good information and great work. replacing leaf frame just does it need reprogram?
No, does not need program, the TCM is no longer in the leadframe. I just had outspeed sensor failure
Gary Ferraro ،TCM location?
Its part of the PCM now, back in 2006 when these first came out, the TCM was in the leadframe, i think about 2010, its now part of the pcm
Gary Ferraro thank you ..really appreciate ur reply..thanks again.
Gary Ferraro I just replaced mine on a 2009 and it doesn't shift . Does it need to recalibrate or you think I got the wrong part ? Hope you can help me plz
I am in the middle of installing the lead frame and the new one comes with a foam strip that goes over the connectors. I haven’t seen that anywhere yet. My old one didn’t have one but I’m assuming I need to install it? Great video by they way! Saved me over 1k! Dealer was going to charge me 1,500.
If you like, send me a picture my e-mail gsferraro@yahoo.com
Gary Ferraro I forgot to take a picture but I installed the lead frame with the foam. Trucks been running strong for nearly 20k. Thanks again for this video. I couldn’t afford to pay the dealer 2k. I was paddles up that crap creek.
Hi Gary, thanks for the great video.Has made my transmission repair a lot easier. Have taken out the valve body on my 2014 Ford Territory with the 6R80 transmission 3 times now because of contaminated transmission fluid. Necessary after 80,000 klms because Ford says the transmission is sealed for life and no fluid change is required.Lots of grey paste around the pan magnet.
Problem being, I experience a stutter in the gear change from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to fourth under light acceleration. No error codes on the dash.I am guessing the contaminated oil ,prior to the 80,000klm inspection, has clogged either the solenoids or valve body channels.Solenoids have been cleaned but has not fixed the problem.Is it possible to separate the valve body to inspect the inside components for clogging? Under hard acceleration the gear change is smooth and has no stutter. Any advice would be appreciated. Located in Australia. thanks .Martin
do you by chance have a scan tool to try a shift adapt reset?
@@GaryFerraro thanks Gary for the reply,yes I do have an OBD II scan tool.Is this suitable?
@@martinbramston2244 Is it a multi functional scan tool or just a code reader?
Just a code reader..
Will try to source the other multi functional scan tool
Today my truck (2011 F150) lost all power and got stuck in 5th. I disconnected battery and that reset everything and got me home. My truck is just out of the extended coverage by 12k miles (162k) When it does it again I am going to go to ford and see if they will goodwill it for me but if/when they won't likely be doing it myself and this video was very helpful. Thank you
You really need to see what code is present, have you had it scanned for codes?
yes it was a P0720 and a P0722 I believe I could be mistaken. I will of course get a second opinion before any repairs are done.
If you have these codes and the 6R80 trans, the leadframe is probably your problem, this is full of fluid correct?
Yes I have a 6R80 and the fluid is full I checked it on the side of the road today. That stubby dipstick is a bitch. Thank you for your assistance
Welcome, you will probably need the lead frame, where are you located?
Hey sir. Thanks for the great video. Any thoughts on just changing out the valve body with an updated/new one at the same time as replacing a lead frame? Seems to me while in there it’s not a half bad idea...thoughts?
Not sure how much that cost but i don't really see to many issues with the valvebody, solenoids seem ok too.
good morning you doing wonderful job
would you happen to be familiar with the cause of codes P2703 , P2704 , P0731 and P0733?
Do you have to reprogram it
No, will work with just the install
Just took mine to Ford was having transmission problems and electrical dash problems. Turns out they are replacing this part free of charge because ford just put out an extended warranty for 10 years or 150,000 miles for this part. I get it back tomorrow hopefully they fixed problem.
They are replacing the lead frame?
Yes I just got back from the dealer today. They replaced the lead frame at no charge because it’s covered under an extended warranty that ford put on them. They said the year of my truck and where it was built determines if it has the extended warranty. I have a 2013 f150.
ford.oemdtc.com/2679/16n02-molded-leadframe-extended-coverage-2011-2012-ford-lincoln
great video, thank you!
Thanks for watching, please subscribe, any transmission questions just let me know
I need that same piece for my 6r80 2013 ford f-150 2wd 5.0 can you help me find one for a decent price.
Doorman makes them, can't get OE, have you googled "6R80 Lead Frame" ?
my 2011 lariat limited, started to act up. sometimes whenever it decides to, it wouldn't shift into reverse the R on my dash wouldnt illuminate and if you go into drive the wrench light pops up and if you try driving, it wont shift above 1st gear. I had to turn the truck off and a on a few times to clear it and also let it warm up good enough for it to work right, took it to the dealer and they said it was the lead frame plate and that it was a $700 part..I looked online and seen there was a recall issued April 2016 for the lead frame on the 2011-2012 and its suppose to be a free fix ...but what the description says about the recall is different from what my truck is doing..sooooooooo
is this setting any codes?
My 2012 F-150 Lariat (manufactured late 2011) exhibited your symptoms too, plus others. It has done the following:
1: gear ceases to be displayed on HUD
2: fails to start from a stopped position in first gear (accelerates from 0 MPH in 6th gear)
3: SPEEDO immediately drops from current driving speed to 0MPH (instant, no delay) accompanied by a downshift to 1st gear, then back up instantly (less than 1 second) [when this happened I was pitched forward into my restraint, and I thought for sure initially that someone had rear-ended me]
4: SPEEDO immediately drops from current driving speed to 0MPH (instant, no delay) accompanied by a downshift to 1st gear, then stays there until you turn the truck off and restart the truck (have to completely turn off till the hud goes blank) [I sort of feel that 3 and 4 are secondary symptoms and not to do with the actual problem - but that under no circumstances should a vehicle drop from a high gear to a low gear like this. It is an unsafe condition and in fact when it happened to me, I was pitched forward into my restraint, my rear tires spun, I lost control of the vehicle and drifted out of my lane... thank God the people around me moved out of the way.]
5: while driving in D shift, the truck fails to downshift or upshift, resulting in underpowered condition or over-revving.
6: HUD goes blank, then a wrench symbol appears that does not go away until you turn the vehicle off and on again
it's at the dealership now, and I don't recall what they said they are doing to fix it, but they said it would be between $1,500 and $1,600 to repair.
My truck was also NOT included in the recall you mentioned which calls for a new lead frame and update to the PCM
The following is from the recall letter regarding 2011-2012 Ford F-150 trucks being recalled:
The Fix: Dealers will inspect the powertrain control module for diagnostic trouble codes tied to the issue. If no related diagnostic trouble codes are present, dealers will update the powertrain control module software, which will eliminate the condition. Additionally, as part of the corresponding customer satisfaction program, Ford will provide a one-time replacement of the lead frame at no charge within 10 years or 150,000 miles from the warranty start date. If related diagnostic trouble codes are present, dealers will update the powertrain control module software and replace the lead frame for free.
I feel like my truck failure needs to be examined and considered for inclusion in this recall, but I don't know how to get that to happen. I have registered a customer complaint with Ford's customer service department, and with NHTSA. The dealership does not seem to care except to get me off their repair list. Does anyone know if there is another avenue to submit a grievance to be considered for extension of a recall?
@@ligaire I'm having the same random symptoms in my 12' Expedition. There is a recall for mine, but it's not throwing any codes, therefore the dealer wont replace it under the recall. What did you end up doing, if anything?
Good day sir , Thank you for this video it’s helping me a lot , I have problems I’m my F150 with speed sensor ,can you please give me more info
If you have a 6R80 Transmission, the plate that bolts onto the valvebody is no good, currently they are very hard to get
What happened is when I am driving the speedo meter will drop down to 0 and the transmission will move to the 5 or 3 gear and this is the only gears it will have , also on the other instrument panel will appear the signal of need service , can you please advice , I am using Whatsup
@@jovensdenegociostv You probably have code P0720 or P0722 for output speed sensor which is on the conductor plate which is bolted to the valvebody. You need the plate but currently very hard to get, you may find something online. Google 6R80 Conductor plate
I have a 2013 f150 6R80 lead frame issue. my local ford dealer told me the lead frame needed to be ordered by vin# and needed to be programed.
1- does it need to be programed
2- if so, does it come programmed or is it done after install?
3- is OEM part better to use for this?
4- thoughts on the Dorman brand for this part?
Does not need programming, When these units first came out the TCM was in the lead frame, around 2010ish they eliminated the TCM from the lead frame, so there is really only one for your car. If you cannot get OE(very hard) then dorman lead frame will work (thats what i currently use).
@@GaryFerraro my truck runs fine for a while then i could stop at a traffic light and then may not shift out of first or just stay in third or 4th. stop on the side the road and turn the truck off then it starts working fine. not sure whats going on
@@brentbourgeois8139 Are there any codes present?
@@GaryFerraro yes sir. P0720 - output shaft speed sensor
That’s the problem. You need a Lead Frame. OE not available may have to get Dormann
Hi Gary, please advise I have harsh 1-2, 2-3 shifts on my Navi 12'MY 6r80..... Replaced fluid few times and filter as well, updated PCM to latest level and relearned KAM, but that did not help at all. Also no errors related to transmission or engine in memory via Ford IDS. What can you recommend to check next? I am thinking of buying a new solenoids set, or is it better to buy a new valve body assembly assuming my molded leadframe supposed to be replaced? Thank you
valvebody and solenoids do have issues. if nothing happened when memory was reset very possible valvebody or solenoids, may want to get the setup instead of just solenoids
So I removed and replaced the lead frame on my 2013 F-150, and got it all put back together and now the truck will not start. It has full power but absolutely will not start or even try to turn over. Any ideas?
I think i've found the problem, the shift linkage part isn't installed correctly. I tried moving it out of gear and it's locked in park, so looks as though truck is in some kind of fail-safe mode not letting it turn over. Gonna pull it out again and try again.
Did you hook up the manual valve? thats where the neutral switch is
That's the shift linkage part that slides with the piece on the lead frame, correct?
yes
Ok, I just checked again and tried to shift into the gears without starting the truck and now it seems to be working correctly. Before, when I tried to put it in reverse or any other gear, it wouldn't budge out of park. It was as though it was locked in park. This is my brothers truck and he's doing the job, so i'm more or less just typing what he's asking. But I did get down there and check it for him just now and now it seems to be working correctly. I'll have him button it all up and see if it'll start this time. I believe he had the element upside down as well. There's another video that some guy has that's showing the element to be up and spring down. I showed him your video and that the spring needs to go up first.
What would you charge for this job?
Michael Prezioso what year truck or car is it
Gary Ferraro 2011 f150 6.2 6r80 I have a code p0705 (trans range sensor) and since the sensor is part of the lead frame I’m assuming it needs to be changed.
I would have to price out the part to be sure but may run around 975
Recall get it for free
@gary ferraro I’ll be replacing the molded leadframe this weekend, but will be replacing the valve body as well because i think thats where the issues are. However, when replacing the valvebody, is there any programming needed? Or any sort of special way i need to let the fluid disperse throughout the new valvebody? I know the fluid expands when hot but i wanted to make sure. Also, does my truck need to be in neutral while doing this? Have a 2011 Ford F150 5.0. Thanks
Do you have any codes? Why replace lead frame and valvebody? If your ordering a valvebody through your vin number, may have to program in the solenoid strategy and body I.D But i would drive it first and see how it works
I have a new lead frame and valve body kit with all the solenoids... i have Solenoid E code P0770 ... I could be wrong.. but it seems like it’s best to just change it all.. 160,000 miles on the 2011 Raptor... I feel like I’m maybe wasting money.. $1700 roughly for everything including labor
with 160K sure thats fine, known for valvebody problem, did you diagnose that the problem is in the trans? Solenoid E is SS1 only on/off solenoid in the trans, did you ohm the solenoid?
Hey Gary I just replaced this lead frame and I'm STILL having the same issue with the same code I bought the part from Ford so the replacement should be good what should I check next!?... 11 f150 6r80 ( staying in 5th and 1st rarely 3rd or will shift to those gears while driving, wiring looks decent) when running properly everything is smooth
what code do you have?
p0720
speed output sensor, thank you somuch having to take care of all this during the holidays
@@vhuert10 Ok, just to confirm, you did clear the code and came back? If so how fast did come back? are there any other codes? What is the engine size?
@@GaryFerraro 5.0 2011 I'm still having the same code air and it came back on about maybe 10 miles after I changed out the new leaf frame
You could remove pypass the cooler and there are less pieces first amendment as the heat weather in summer with snowmobiles, reach as high as 111.
111c
yes, first amendment big issue with transmissions in trucks
Great video!!! I’m having a little trouble though. Installed everything and the truck won’t shift into any gear. Is there any programming necessary?
You may have not hooked up the manual valve
That’s what we thought, my brother helped me, so we dropped the pan and checked and we can see it moving when I move the shifter.
It pulls code p0707
Thats a range switch code, drop the pan see if its hooked up
I just swapped out my lead frame, now my truck starts, but it will not move when putting it into gear. I did the cold service fill for the putting fluid into the transmission, but now I am getting this error: P0765 Shift Solenoid D Malfunction. This code didn't show up any other time before switching out the lead frame. Anyone have any suggestions, I am at a loss for fixing my truck.
OK, you hooked up the manual valve?
@@GaryFerraro the valve with the spring? yes, put it back in...
@@GaryFerraro The green colored valve that has the spring and falls out, yes, i put that back in!
@@terryjohnson5782 I mean the manual valve hooks up to the linkage to select the different ranges
@@GaryFerraro Problem solved! Apparently Autozone had no idea which filter I needed, they gave me the 1.5 inch intake tube version and I needed the 1 inch version. Changed that and it works perfectly now! Thanks for the help anyways!
Anyone have the Ford part number for this leadframe?
AL3Z-7G276-D
@@smcool100 thx
Ive got a 2012 ford ranger with the input speed code.
Ive got a spare 2013 box.
Can i rob the 2013 for the whole valve body?
Holy potato recording. It was 2017 when you recorded this, where was your higher quality camera...or were using your nokia?
I think its my computer, everytime i try to upload in HD it always says there not enough room try a lower resolution. I actually have a samsung
Make sure you record in HD on your phone then. There is usually an option in the Settings
ok, do they make a holder so i can put the phone on a tripod? Thanks for the info. I,m so busy with transmissions, i have no time to research anything else.
Not sure how tall/sturdy of one you need, but this one may work out for you. www.amazon.com/Fotopro-Aluminum-Bluetooth-Control-Samsung/dp/B01MTMS8GN/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1533041110&sr=8-8&keywords=phone+tripod
Thanks for the info, will check it out, i have I phone 7