I had an independent shop do mine. Charged over $1500 over $800 in parts alone. Shifting from first to second BANGS into gear under light throttle slow speed. Shop said the tranny has to reprogram itself. Also he said they had to download software for the new leadframe. Truck only has 92k 2013, and he said drive over 100 miles it’ll correct itself. Did i get shafted??? 😡
this was the best clearest, most accurate instructional video for the DIYer to make these repairs! thank you so much! IT saved me over $1000!! Subscribed!!
I cant explain how great of a video this really is. Takes his time, shows where you need to be at to support or remove something. Other videos dont do that!!! And very informative the parts. Also nice pace to keep up with as well!
I’m a former Ford mechanic (diesel driveability mostly) and I really think this might be one of the best instructional videos I’ve seen on university of UA-cam. Good job telling folks to torque their valve body. Seen a few internal pressure leaks in the past from over torqued valve body bolts messing up the gaskets.
Had an independent shop do mine. Shifting from first to second BANGS into gear. He said the tranny has to reprogram itselt. Parts alone was over $800, total bill 1500. Is the clunk shifting normal?
Awesome tutorial, very well explained and thought out. Going to be doing this soon and couldn't be happier to have come across this video. Left a sub, thank you!
Very detailed explanation with one exception: Didn't show installing the connector hub back into the transmission. Also, grease on that plunger didn't hold it for long, so instead I used a piece of wire attached to the nearest pan screw threaded holes and bended it accordingly to temporarily hold that plunger in place while the valve body was in place with a single loose screw. Then moved the wire out and done deal!
Wonderful and concise video. Did you forget to mention putting back the square plastic seal body. I missed that. But thank you for Patriots like yourself.
Great video, Bruh.... I have a 2013 F150 Ecoboost showing a P0720 code. Will this leaf frame replacement fix my issue?? My truck WON'T go up to 6th gear and WON'T go past 3rd gear once i come to a stop sign or redlight...I need my truck!!!!!
I added the thermal bypass to my truck. Before I pulled the valve body the levers were all line up. I buttoned everything up went to start the truck and all my gear shift indicators will not illuminate on the dash except park and it would not engage in any gear. I pulled the pan to inspect now the levers aren’t line up. How do you realign them? Thank you
Great video! After I replaced it I am getting code P0750 for bad shift solenoid A. I am assuming I did something wrong and I will be pulling it out again to see what I may have missed. Thank you!
@@brysoncarney6893 you're welcome! Make sure no pins backed out of the bulkhead connection. That's common. The easiest fix is to replace the transmission harness, which is about the same price as just the connector
I have been trying to find just the harness ahead of me pulling it all apart. Is it something I would have to buy used? Everything I’m seeing is quite a lot of money. Thank you again!
Just did the lead frame in a 250k 5.0. Now the transmission is slipping bad. Wonder if the transfer tubes didn’t get back in properly? Left them on the valve body. Only drove the truck 10 miles before this but it didn’t slip at all
Yeah it could be your leadframe. Check the connector on the back of the transmission first for damaged wires or being full of fluid from an unseated bulkhead sleeve
Thats what i did. Good luck finding one though. They are on mational back order. I found one on ebay brand new in its original package. Lead frame and valve body assembly😊
What is the lead frames main function and why does it go bad??? My 2011 f150 platinum with 6.2L 293k miles is showing symptoms of problem. Lost of power, speedometer needle goes to zero, rpm goes up and down.
Hello I just did this for my 2013 F-150. Once I finished everything I put the key on the ignition but it wouldn't let me start, after a closer look the gear selector is on P but the screen or computer says it's on gear "1" or first gear basically. Any idea what I did wrong?
My 2016 F150 gets stuck in like first gear and the drive selector goes away and my fans start running a high speed. I was told it was the lead frame, does that sound like it could be it?
I have a 2014 F150 with almost 280,000 miles. I don't have any codes, but it seems that the neutral safety switch is failing. It sometimes won't start, but all the lights, etc come on. I move the gear shift and then it will start. There aren't any other issues with the truck running, except the windshield wipers won't go completely off sometimes. The wipers will continue on the intermittent setting. It was suggested by a shop that it might be possible to adjust the neutral safety switch without disassembly. Is that possible?
I changed my lead frame because of code p0720. Now I'm getting p0715/p0717. 2017 ford f150 2.7l leadframe from dealership selected by Vin. Any help please?
When I pulled out the lead frame connector the lead frame sleeve didn't come with it. I couldn't pull out the valve body and I'm thinking it's because of that. Any tips for how to get that out? I tried reconnecting the connector and starting over but it doesn't wanna give.
I almost gave up too, takes an uncomfortable amount of force to remove. Use a long flat head screw driver putting the tip underneath the threaded part of connector and the middle of screw driver pivoting/prying off exhaust. Use the same method to reinstall expect pivoting tip of screwdriver on the end of the connector sleeve instead of threads. Put vasoline on seal part of bulk head to assist install.
@@mikeoshea4088 It ended up giving - I just needed to find a more aggressive angle of attack. Glad it didn't break like the screw did when putting the tranny pan back on!
That locking tab on the lead frame (for the bulkhead sleeve), is designed to NOT go up until the sleeve is fully installed. I believe your description is misleading about making sure it moves up and down before installing. If it’s fighting you that is a good thing; it’s preventing you from locking it in without a properly installed bulkhead sleeve. If you really want to test before installation, you can put the bulkhead sleeve into the lead frame then move the locking tab up and down.
Thank you for the information. That makes sense. The bulkhead sleeve will push on the two slide fingers when seated, and then you push up on the slide handle. Thanks for explaining
Hello, I am the owner of f150 2011. I have a problem with the lead frame. Many services refuse to take a truck because they do not know whether it is necessary to flash the box or the control unit. Is there a need to replace the software? Or can you just replace the part?(Possible inaccuracies in translation)
Replaced my lead frame. Still have exact same problem. Won't shift between 4th and 5th. Gets stuck in 3rd won't shift. Makes funny humming noise. And will down shift to 1st all by its self. And my Speedo is way off
Lol it takes me 1.7 hours and warranty pays 1.9 I think..customer pay is like 4. You're paying for experience. I'm currently working on a Bronco transmission rebuild. I'm 30 hours into the job and it pays 10.
Dorman Leadframe: amzn.to/4bfTGgD
Filter & Pan Gasket: amzn.to/3vTvMYl
Mercon LV (You need 9-10 qts): amzn.to/47USdJZ
I had an independent shop do mine. Charged over $1500 over $800 in parts alone. Shifting from first to second BANGS into gear under light throttle slow speed. Shop said the tranny has to reprogram itself. Also he said they had to download software for the new leadframe. Truck only has 92k 2013, and he said drive over 100 miles it’ll correct itself. Did i get shafted??? 😡
this was the best clearest, most accurate instructional video for the DIYer to make these repairs! thank you so much! IT saved me over $1000!! Subscribed!!
I cant explain how great of a video this really is. Takes his time, shows where you need to be at to support or remove something. Other videos dont do that!!! And very informative the parts. Also nice pace to keep up with as well!
I'm very happy it helped you! Thanks for taking time to leave a nice comment
Dude the detail you cover is Amazing. Well done!
I’m a former Ford mechanic (diesel driveability mostly) and I really think this might be one of the best instructional videos I’ve seen on university of UA-cam. Good job telling folks to torque their valve body. Seen a few internal pressure leaks in the past from over torqued valve body bolts messing up the gaskets.
I thought I had found a good video on this before. This is heads above. Thanks brother!
Glad it was helpful!
@@BigBensCarsAndCyclesI got ripped off. I should have done it myself
Best video for this procedure so far. I salute you sir and thank you for the effort. Great Job❤
Awesome video, great detail and patience.
Wow… this was an exceptional video/tutorial! Perfect. Thanks a lot man, this is great!
Having these issues with my truck rn this is gonna make it so easy to do
I just did my lead frame today. This tutorial made it very easy. Had all the information I needed in one place start to finish. Thank you
you're weclome!
Paul any chance we could connect? I have some questions about the lead frame.
@nahnyabuhizniz4542 yeah I have a Discord and Facebook group. Links are on my channel page
Had an independent shop do mine. Shifting from first to second BANGS into gear. He said the tranny has to reprogram itselt. Parts alone was over $800, total bill 1500. Is the clunk shifting normal?
@paulvan958 did you do the work on a lift or stands? Trying to decide If I want to change the lead frame out on stands
Awesome tutorial, very well explained and thought out. Going to be doing this soon and couldn't be happier to have come across this video. Left a sub, thank you!
Happy to help! Thanks
Very detailed and easy to understand. Good job!
I'm glad it helped!
Very detailed explanation with one exception: Didn't show installing the connector hub back into the transmission. Also, grease on that plunger didn't hold it for long, so instead I used a piece of wire attached to the nearest pan screw threaded holes and bended it accordingly to temporarily hold that plunger in place while the valve body was in place with a single loose screw. Then moved the wire out and done deal!
Wonderful and concise video.
Did you forget to mention putting back the square plastic seal body. I missed that.
But thank you for Patriots like yourself.
You just saved me $2k thank you !
Awesome. You're welcome!
Excellent vid. I trust me doing this job with the guidance of your vid over some careless tech working at the sdealership under someone's ASE cert.
I'm glad it helped !
Ingot ripped off, and my truck bangs into gear from first to second under light throttle
This is a fantastic video, great job
Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful!
Thank you sir! You're saving me big!!
You're welcome!
Great detailed video 🙌
Just did this to my 16 f150 5.0. Was giving me a 715 code. Now im having hard shift into 2nd, and revs up a few hundred rpm shifting from 5 to 6.
I believe that would be an intermediate clutch concern. Did you reinstall the rubber tube seals? Were any solenoids damaged during the repair?
That was perfectly explained. Thank you
You're welcome!
Great vid, gonna save me over a thousand bucks
Great Video!
Amazing detail
@@PaulSteely thanks, I'm happy it was helpful to you
Great video, Bruh....
I have a 2013 F150 Ecoboost showing a P0720 code. Will this leaf frame replacement fix my issue?? My truck WON'T go up to 6th gear and WON'T go past 3rd gear once i come to a stop sign or redlight...I need my truck!!!!!
Yup this should fix that!
I added the thermal bypass to my truck. Before I pulled the valve body the levers were all line up. I buttoned everything up went to start the truck and all my gear shift indicators will not illuminate on the dash except park and it would not engage in any gear. I pulled the pan to inspect now the levers aren’t line up. How do you realign them? Thank you
Thanks! Ben
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Kiitos Arto CANADA
Great video! After I replaced it I am getting code P0750 for bad shift solenoid A. I am assuming I did something wrong and I will be pulling it out again to see what I may have missed. Thank you!
@@brysoncarney6893 you're welcome! Make sure no pins backed out of the bulkhead connection. That's common. The easiest fix is to replace the transmission harness, which is about the same price as just the connector
I have been trying to find just the harness ahead of me pulling it all apart. Is it something I would have to buy used? Everything I’m seeing is quite a lot of money. Thank you again!
Just did the lead frame in a 250k 5.0. Now the transmission is slipping bad. Wonder if the transfer tubes didn’t get back in properly? Left them on the valve body. Only drove the truck 10 miles before this but it didn’t slip at all
Hi, yeah I'd check those for sure
Great video. I have a 2016 F150 V8 with a dtc code P0715. Should I being doing this as well to fix my problem or is it something else. Thank you.
Yeah it could be your leadframe. Check the connector on the back of the transmission first for damaged wires or being full of fluid from an unseated bulkhead sleeve
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles Thank you soo much. I will check it out.
If you are swapping out the entire valve body/lead frame assembly, do you need to reprogram?
Yes, the valve body should come with a solenoid strategy sticker
Great video! What is the computer software you’re using that you showed the picture of the bypass plug?
Happy it helped. That's ford's workshop manual
Thank-you for the video!! If that bypass plug is installed upside down pointy part upward will it cause problems? Thanks!
@@bluecamino9451 I believe it would cause no flow in the cooler lines
What’s the torque and tightening sequence for the lead frame to valve body bolts and the transmission pan bolts? I have a 2012 F-150 3.5L
Hi, if I didn't show the sequence in the video, I'll take a picture and post it on my Facebook or discord group, just join and ask. Thanks
I’ve put about 6 quarts in it and it’s over full. Do I need to start it to go through the Wahl body then check it again.
Let the engine idle and it'll pull 5 quarts or so through the pump and converter and you'll be able to put the rest in
My bulkhead connector did come off with the plug, is it okay to reuse?
Yes its ok to put that connecter shell back in
what was different with 2010 6r80. i see some parts are 2011-2018 and some also include the 2010. was the change with the ecu?
on a 2010, the TCM is built into the leadframe, and serviced by replacing the whole valve body
Sure wish i seen this before i told the ford dealership to change my lead frame, cause its not cover under the recall cause its been past 10 years.
Hello, thank you for the video. I would like you to tell me where I can buy the part
You're welcome. The part isn't as hard to get at the moment at the dealer. I'd only use an OEM lead frame. Part # AL3Z7G276D. Check ebay.
Im thinking about replacing the valve body all together. Might save some time from having to remove the lead frame
That will require programming the new solenoid strategy using forscan
Thats what i did. Good luck finding one though. They are on mational back order. I found one on ebay brand new in its original package. Lead frame and valve body assembly😊
What is the lead frames main function and why does it go bad??? My 2011 f150 platinum with 6.2L 293k miles is showing symptoms of problem. Lost of power, speedometer needle goes to zero, rpm goes up and down.
That sounds like the leadframe. The main failure point is the OSS
Stupid question but if it takes 9-10 quarts and the pan only holds 4-5 should I fill it till it’s full run the truck then fill again?
The pan will take 4 to 5 (thats fine to start with), then with the engine running, the torque converter will fill up and itll take another 4 or 5
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles thank you - so add 4-5 start truck cycle gears - shut off and fill again ?
Hello I just did this for my 2013 F-150. Once I finished everything I put the key on the ignition but it wouldn't let me start, after a closer look the gear selector is on P but the screen or computer says it's on gear "1" or first gear basically. Any idea what I did wrong?
I think you didn't line up the range sensor with the manual lever. The range sensor is on the leadframe
11:27
Got it, I have a picture where I did align the leadframe however I don't remember lining up the lever, thank you for your reply! Trying it tomorrow
My 2016 F150 gets stuck in like first gear and the drive selector goes away and my fans start running a high speed. I was told it was the lead frame, does that sound like it could be it?
If there are OSS codes then yes. What codes are in it? Might need u to make another comment so I'm notified. Apologies it took 3 weeks to reply
I have a 2014 F150 with almost 280,000 miles. I don't have any codes, but it seems that the neutral safety switch is failing. It sometimes won't start, but all the lights, etc come on. I move the gear shift and then it will start. There aren't any other issues with the truck running, except the windshield wipers won't go completely off sometimes. The wipers will continue on the intermittent setting. It was suggested by a shop that it might be possible to adjust the neutral safety switch without disassembly. Is that possible?
Hi. It's possible to adjust the shifter cable. That would be a good start since there's no codes
Thank you very much!!
I changed my lead frame because of code p0720. Now I'm getting p0715/p0717. 2017 ford f150 2.7l leadframe from dealership selected by Vin. Any help please?
@@classproject1433 check for damaged wires near the transmission connector on the back that was removed. Or pulled out pins in that connector
So I don’t have the bypass valve, I have the blank plug. But I installed it upside down. Is that a big issue?
If the transmission overheats you'll want to switch that around
@@BigBensCarsAndCyclesthank you for your video!
What is the function of the feed tubes? If one is gone is that a problem. Will it be a pressure problem?
Look up with a flash light, it may be a blank hole. The purpose of them is to seal pressure ports
Thanks you are a lifesaver
So would a 2010 6r80 6.2 raptor have a mechatronic or a lead frame?
Mechtronics
When I pulled out the lead frame connector the lead frame sleeve didn't come with it. I couldn't pull out the valve body and I'm thinking it's because of that. Any tips for how to get that out? I tried reconnecting the connector and starting over but it doesn't wanna give.
did you pull the release lever down? of so put the connector half way on and use the lever handle as leverage
I almost gave up too, takes an uncomfortable amount of force to remove. Use a long flat head screw driver putting the tip underneath the threaded part of connector and the middle of screw driver pivoting/prying off exhaust. Use the same method to reinstall expect pivoting tip of screwdriver on the end of the connector sleeve instead of threads. Put vasoline on seal part of bulk head to assist install.
This is obviously after doing the stated above (lower the release lever all the way down)
@@mikeoshea4088 It ended up giving - I just needed to find a more aggressive angle of attack. Glad it didn't break like the screw did when putting the tranny pan back on!
HELP. Does anyone know what part number this is for the 6R140 transmissions for 2015 F250 SuperDuty? I'm going nuts here and can't find it. Thank you
I don't believe the 140 has a leadframe.
That locking tab on the lead frame (for the bulkhead sleeve), is designed to NOT go up until the sleeve is fully installed. I believe your description is misleading about making sure it moves up and down before installing. If it’s fighting you that is a good thing; it’s preventing you from locking it in without a properly installed bulkhead sleeve.
If you really want to test before installation, you can put the bulkhead sleeve into the lead frame then move the locking tab up and down.
Thank you for the information. That makes sense. The bulkhead sleeve will push on the two slide fingers when seated, and then you push up on the slide handle. Thanks for explaining
Yes, well stated….. exceptional video with exceptional informative comment! Hats off guys.
Hello, I am the owner of f150 2011. I have a problem with the lead frame. Many services refuse to take a truck because they do not know whether it is necessary to flash the box or the control unit. Is there a need to replace the software? Or can you just replace the part?(Possible inaccuracies in translation)
Hi. It is not required to program a new leadframe
Can you post the link for the step by steps on the computer like you had
Sorry no its on ford
Replace the pan with aftermarket one with a plug in it ..easier to remove pan on next fluid change.
That's what I'd do if I owned one, for sure
How do you feel about the Dorman lead frames for the 6r80 ?
They can be hit or miss. I'd get an oem if possible
TRASH - wasted my money on Dorman. It took me almost 90 days on a waitlist but I got an OEM frame from my local dealer
Now one question, U don't have to change any of the selinoids , just the lead frame, ,
Correct
Do you have to program the new lead frame ?
No you don't. On 2010 and older you do because the tcm is built in. But not 2011 and newer
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles thanks I appreciate your help
Been looking for this answer for a while now! Thanks!
Can you share the link of the torque sequence ?
Hi, you can pause the video at 15:20 and the spec is 71 in lbs. You can also "print screen" and paste into paint, then print out if needed
By chance, could you just replace the solenoid itself on the valve body?
Yeah, looks like they're serviceable separately
Thank you for the reply back. downshifting into first gear seems a little jerky
Replaced my lead frame. Still have exact same problem. Won't shift between 4th and 5th. Gets stuck in 3rd won't shift. Makes funny humming noise. And will down shift to 1st all by its self. And my Speedo is way off
Can you record the problem and post it in my discord or Facebook group? I'll take a look. It may take up to a day for me to respond sometimes
Same problem. Was told that maybe it’s a throttle body
Does the lead frame need to be reprogrammed??
No
I have a 2011 f150 5.0 and code popped up as P0705 so i want to assume this Lead frame is the issue?.
Hi, yes most likely. Check for damaged wires on the transmission main bulkhead connector too
@BigBensCarsAndCycles thanks I appreciate it!
Is there any programming after doing this
Nope. No programming
Where are you located? By any chance in Orlando fl?
Sorry. Virginia!
Whats the trick to getting oil in
Get a fluid transfer pump, they're cheap on amazon and you pump it up to build pressure to transfer the fluid
Are the valve body bolts all the same length?
The 3 short ones go in the back (where my finger is, on the video thumbnail) the rest are the same length
So you do it in 15 minutes but the shop charges 8 hours? Interesting ;)
Lol it takes me 1.7 hours and warranty pays 1.9 I think..customer pay is like 4. You're paying for experience. I'm currently working on a Bronco transmission rebuild. I'm 30 hours into the job and it pays 10.
Ha just messing with you @@BigBensCarsAndCycles completely understand the experience is where it matters. Newer or older bronco? Yikes.
@peterson1943 thanks for the humor. Sorry if I came across grumpy. New Bronco with a 7 speed manual. Total nightmare.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles30 hours in on a manual transmission? Dayummm
That gasket is reusable.
Yup, just inspect for the rubber coming apart
always use Ford OEM, not that Dorman junk
Oem is a lot more reliable for sure
Im sure the oem will last a lot longer than the dorman but its still prone to failing. It's not very well designed piece to begin with
Ford OEM is the reason he’s fixing this in the first place 😂
Don’t put this style on a 2010. Ask me how I know 🤬
Yup the 2010s have the TCM built into it