Thanks, April! The most helpful thing for me is showing me that it's okay to cut the drywall to get the job done. I've been trying to find a way to avoid cutting open the wall to fish an outlet from one room, across the hallway, and into the other room. I'm just going to bite the bullet and use the multitool to make a few small access cuts.
We already had backsplash tiles when I installed my under cabinet lighting. Luckily the box I was running the electric from was an old-work box so I was able to pull it out to more easily run the cable up the wall. I removed the cabinet above and routed the cable out where the ~1" top recessed area of the cabinet is. I re-hung the cabinet to hide my cutouts and wired in to a 12v transformer / switch box for the LED lights. From there I ran the 12-volt lamp cords across the top of the cabinets and down the space between the cabinets to the under side recessed area where I would put the LEDs. At each workstation, I also ran extra lamp cord down to painted metal single blanks to be mounted underneath near the lights and used as touch sensors. Wired into the switch box we added an Arduino for logic control of the switches. The logic is programmed such that: Single Tap cycles through low, medium, high, off, (repeat) dim levels for the lights of the workstation corresponding to that particular touch switch. Long press cycles the lighting of all of the workstations to the same dim level. Any single taps within 5 seconds of a long press will cycle the dim levels of all workstations. It's so fun and convenient to use and I can even tap them with my elbows if my hands are greasy or wet.
Good vid April. I connected a small discreet PIR sensor to my under cabinet lights on a 2 min cycle. As an added bonus it means at night we can enter the Kitchen for a quick trip, e.g glass of water and don't need to touch the main lights as these are more than enough, and they turn off automatically
As always, nice project April! A good rule of thumb to always follow April, and yes, I know you're installing backsplash, but always, always use nail plates over the stud to protect your wires, plumbing runs, etcetera, through any stud wall, a good habit to get into, no matter. You may at one point sell and the new homeowner might decide they want to take your beautiful tile/stone backsplash down, now they nail really cool random lengths of horizontal thin barn wood up with their new zippy pneumatic 15ga finish nailer using 2.5" nails because that's all they have handy ...this may never happen, but, it only takes a moment to do this correctly. Thanks again, we enjoy and look forward to your videos.
You made that WAY harder than it needed to be. Rather than run mains power, all that was need was low voltage. 5v or 12v is safer and more than enough to power SK6812 LED 60 LED/m light strips. Low voltage wire is thinner so no need to remove drywall and run through the studs. Low voltage wire is small enough to run between the cabinets themselves. The aluminum channels the LED lights strips run in are thinner and more low profile than the lights you chose. For the average homeowner, they're a better choice all the way around. Additionally, there a numerous options to wire them to smart devices that can be operated by the home assistant of your choice (Alexa or Google).
my wife always wanted lights under her cabinets for long time in the kitchen for thanksgiving,christmas etc.but didnt know where to begin without making a total mess. but know i think i can take this on. thank you.
Looks great. My wife and I bought these led lights for under our cabinets that came with connections to have all the lights on one switch. It does use a typical plug but that could easily be modified and hooked into a wall switch. The lights came with hardware so they could be screwed into the underside of the cabinets as well as these double sided adhesive pads so if you did want to screw into your cabinets you could use those. I didn’t directly wire them into a wall switch as I was able to hide the wire and plug it into an outlet behind our fridge. On another note your kitchen is beautiful. A bit of kitchen envy going on here as yours looks very spacious.
I just installed some recessed led lights in our ceiling yesterday. My wife and I were talking about adding in a tile backsplash and this video popped up. Now I’m rethinking adding in the under cabinet lights as well as I can just cut out the drywall and run my romex from cabinet to cabinet. Electrical work has always intimated me in the past, but the more I do it, the more confidence I gain.
In most cities, get a permit if you open the walls. It protects you, your insurance and your house! Hire an electrician! It may look "easy", but there is a reason why they have to be certified and TRAINED.
Wow, our kitchens are nearly identical?! Nice! ... needed to update my lighting under the cabinets. And add to the toe kick for ambience. This helps greatly- thank you!
For those items that have a keyhole design for mounting, but no way to get to them through the fixture, photocopy them at 100% and use the photocopy as your template. Great work as always.
Your kitchen looks great, April. You did a great job on the lights and the back splash. I can't wait for Feb. 23rd. Isn't it amazing how blessed your life has been? I still remember those first two videos (which I enjoyed, BTW) and now look at you. You have a dream shop, a dream business and you're headed for TV stardom. Wow! I'm so happy for you. You deseerve it. Stay safe and thanks for all of the great UA-cam adventures.
Our kitchen renovation included planning for the lighting all wires located etc...NOW the biggest challenge is finding a light fixture slim enough and affordable. Thanks for the tip on where to mount the lights under the cabs.
Was looking to see if anyone else commented on the bare exposed romex without conduit what about low voltage like power for rgb rgb lights does that require it as well?
Led strips or low volt lighting makes this much easier to run the wire. You can put the transformer on top of the cabs or under the sink. Then you run the small low volt wire, or led strips, right along the front bottom edge of the uppers where it can't be seen. Low volt is much safer as well.
@@DaddyHaxTV You could, if you needed better lighting though, regular leds would do better. Rgb would look nice though, why not both? Bright white for work and rgb for all other times.
So I literally just subscribed to your channel because you’re a woman doing this kind of work and I would like to learn from you for when my husband and I move into our new house. I did enjoy the video!
A few tips, I recommend LED strip lights and the use of 14-2 romex vs.12-2. Secondly I would recommend also if the back splash is already done, lighting can be added with wiring inside cabs.
Two things about this: 1) If it's a 20A circuit, you have to use 12 ga wire. 2) You cannot use Romex here at all. Since the wire is exposed, NEC requires BX (armored) cable.
You are really brave cutting your walls like this and drilling into studs andaround wires. This is like hacking and tinkering, it's doesn't feel right because it involves destruction and hiding it. It takes guts to do something like this.
I did much the same but made my life much easier by replacing the outlet boxes with 2 outlet strips. One 3 ft & one 6 ft, surface mounted, just under the back edge of the cabinet. Many more outlets, spread along the length of the counter, with the added bonus of a clear backsplash with no outlets to cut tile to fit around.
Instead of doubling your gang box and using 2 separate switches, get a decora style double-switch that allows you to have 2 switches in a single gang box. Also, looks better and matches your already existing decora outlets.
Ohh April - buy Ikea under kitchen LED lights. The modules feed each other (12v) and there's only 1 wire. All mess is under the cabinet (not visible). You get wireless Bluetooth button as well (dimmer) for LEDs They are pretty bright - installed into my working space a 3 module rig.
Great video and extensive install. It might be easier to make just one run to each group of cabinets for each group of lights, and link them under the cabinets.
It’s been a while since I start watching your vids April. Nice project you are such a talented woman. A lot of guys will be envious of your skill and creativity. More power to your channel stay safe. New sub here..greetings from Philippines.
Under cabinet lighting ROCKS have it in the kitchen and it is great for doing stuff like turning on the coffee maker with out having to turn on the overhead lights. If anyone does this go with the LED sets as they are so much brighter and energy efficient
That turned out nice. Only thing I’d do differently is the patchwork. There’s no need to tape and mud the joints. Just screw the drywall back in place, and as long as it’s secure, you’re good to go.
Hi April, great job. I usually make the cabinets lower shelf a bottom chase to run my wires completely out of sight without the extensive wall break out that you did in your wall installation. On American frame cabinets where you have a half inch gap between the boxes (cabinets) that space can be use for risers to get wires up and over undermount microwaves or tall appliances like refrigerators. On European styled cabinets where the boxes meet flush, we'll use the small gap in the cabinets often found between the adjustable shelves. Our fixtures are our junction boxes and we generally use low voltage fixtures to that we can stay within the codes. We find this system works if you get a bad fixture from the manufactures or the client wants to add or remove a fixture later on. We'll have 90% access to the system without blowing up a lot of previous great work.
@@richs5422 I'm semi retired but I think I can get into some of my old projects and do a show and tell. I uploaded a few of my cycling videos but never a link to someones else. Can be done in the comments I guess. Another new trick for this old dog to learn. :)
Her fixtures are completely serviceable, the driver is under the lense, makes it super easy to fix. Hers were simply a cost effective fixture, codewise there was nothing wrong maybe not requiring 12AWG but if thats all she had on hand... and there is no rule that sais you cant oversize your wire as long as the devices are rated for the size.. just reduces resistance and voltage drop, lol. And the more modern led strips require a plug either below the sink or above the cabinets which in her case would have been a heck alot more work. Her work was good and as a master electrician I approve her video, as my old teacher always said theres 20ways to skin a cat.
@@gophersgirl Yes, Aprils fixtures are easy to access to and so are the type that connect to one another in a daisy change. But any contractor that specialize in kitchens will tell, that the options are unlimited. Here in April's kitchen, her canbinets are mounted against the traditional wall. But would that light system work over an island or a penisula? And you have a client that does not want to see any hardware and the lights systems issued are cannisters or spotlights. This system that I suggested works with all lighting. Plus it's satisfies the number one objective, the client! ;)
I just installed Philips Hue led strips under my kitchen cabinets and control them via wireless proximity switch with time and couple day/night profiles. Imo quite a bit more elegant solution these days.
@@smartgorilla LED lighting fixtures that are wired. DC has lower current and doesn't require installing AC wiring behind walls. I won't go into the potential issues with following electrical code, etc. for this project. DC LEDs are just less invasive for a project like this one.
@@davidenete most leds are 12-24V, including the ones she used, if you paid attention in her video, her fixture had the driver built into the housing ( and replaceable), so the light still gets 12VDC. And those fixtures IMO are a bit more old-school but will also be a budget thing as well, you can spend 40$ or 200 and have almost identical look, for the strips with the plug in driver ( which you were thinking of that only need a LV cable run to each location) it usually requires to add an extra plug either under the sink or above the cabinates. Her way is quicker.
Thank you April! I have combed UA-cam looking for how to hardwire under counter lighting. After watching many, your video did exactly what I was looking for and answered questions I had in mind. This was perfect! I’m more ready and excited for my next DIY project!
Thanks April, this was a nice video. Like other comments I was surprised that you didn’t use LED fixtures... perhaps hat a future time you will consider adding IP67 weather resistant LED strip lighting along the upper edge of the cabinet base. These LED strips are fairly inexpensive and come in 5m (16’) lengths. Wishing you and your family a blessed new year filled with peace, prosperity, health and happiness. Greetings from NE Ohio.
omg!!! So much to like about this project! It has been executed very nicely. Products used are perfect & so is the skill & technique. The whole project just works. Great job!
I like this Idea, but for my place I would use leds that change colors, since the majority of the house has that possibility already. Also dimming could be nice based on the time of the day, I find that I only use my lights at 100% when it's required, but if not reading, or doing anything that requires that much light I keep my lights at 40-60% because it is more mellow. Back splash looks great!
This is early 2000s work. In 2020s, you would use an 120v LED strip, wire the high voltage side to the light switch...and just use some 3m sticky tape. Dont have to destroy your wall, super easy and safe, better light coverage, and quick.
Yeah until the 3m tape starts to fall from the heat of cooking. You still will have to cut into the wall unless you don't hide the wire, which is trash.
Just a suggestion on the recessed can light above your sink that you're never going to use lol. Why not use a conversion kit for a can light and turn it into a drop-down pendant light, this kit will take the recessed can that already exists and give you the ability to bring your light down to your sink area and give a more pleasing look in the process. Again just a suggestion but everything looks great, keep up the good work.
Thanks! I got that at the Souvenir Shop at the Admiral Nimitz WWII Museum. Of course it is unarmed and was used in Boot Camp Training in WWII, now they had some for sale. I thought it looked pretty cool. Thanks for watching.
@@AprilWilkerson Awesome. I've been collecting WWII stuff since I was a teen in the 80's. I am doing a kitchen remodel right now and found your videos. Super helpful.
APRIL, NICE JOB!!! HOWEVER, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, BUT, There is under cabinet lighting available which is 12volt & remote control. All low volt so no romex reqired. !
Love mine. I got the rigid from home Depot which isn't top quality but it is versatile with interchangeable heads. It has a multi-tool oscillating cutter head like she was using. I also bought a low profile angle drill attachment and a nailer attachment that works like a palm nailer. All of them have helped so much when I get into tight spots!
@@oodoodoopoopoo I use it to cut open walls, flush cut pvc stubs for closet flanges, cut shims, cut out brass or pvc “frozen” clean out plugs, I’ve cut open a tile wall with it to replace a faucet, cut out rotted toilet bolts. The list is endless of what it can do
@@plumberguy1689 - agree. My first use ever was a tight spot where my Ryoba Japanese saw couldn't accurately reach for trimming some door jambs to tuck the flooring.
Nice, about to do this project. I will be adding a USB and a cat6 cable also to the counter for all that hi tech kitchen stuff that is coming. Robot's are coming so might as well plan for them.
Yellow 12/2 is oversized and much more difficult to work with than 14/2, which is typically good for 15A lighting circuits. Good idea though, doing it before tile backsplash. 👍
Nice job but here in EU most of the houses are in brick. So putting cables in the wall is not as easy as in your house ... therefore I installed HUE ledstrips in LED profiles.
You have to plan such things early for any substantional building. It is not easy to add wires to reinforced concrete wall without ruining half of your kitchen.
Thank you, April. I’ll be ordering from Kiwiko and your store for these educational gifts for my grandson. He’ll love it. God bless you abundantly. Lots of love from San Antonio.❤️
well done, althought you could have done this without destroing all your kitchen gebson board, just a 2mm flexable wires and an external small cable duct from the power source to the lights and you will save many time, tools and efforts, also you will save many damages that have to be fixed afterward. Also a tip, if you had used a Led light it would have been much smaller to be hidden under the upper side of the kitchen and more britter for the kitchen lightnning
I like making a copy of the fixture on my computer scanner to create a paper template for drilling the holes. It is much easier to tape up the paper and drill than hold up the fixture and mark.
Looks great! A lot of voltage and thick electrical wires for what could be small 12v LEDs! Also, dang those cabinets need to be lifted to the ceiling-IDK why folks still build houses with them so close to the countertops.
From JUDY &JIMM THANX KIDDO, We are amidst several remods, rehahabs, & NEW builds ?! ALSO GREAT TO KNOW We Have A TEXAS Connect to 60 INCH Sawmiller For our Pecans & Live Oaks & Hickories , Holler when ready, BUT NOT NEXT WEEK, You have A Great future , Jimm
generally I'd put outlets inside the cabinet/s, fish up/down walls and go across the top of cabinets if there's space (conduit/wiremold/mc cable), alternate go down into base cabinets, basement to get across. put outlets in as few of cabinets as possible and use the lights daisy chain feature. then again fishing wire like that can bet very complex, time consuming and costly if you hit things within the walls.
Oh dear! I just installed motion/voice control lighting with plug on just one end to power it. It was just touch then I added a FEIT plug to work on my Google talk box. All neatly tucked under and only the light shining is seen. Plus I can change color. I think under this counter method will be history......about now in life. But ya got power! I seen the surround sound guys just cut Sheetrock to run power then just place a nice trim piece over it. I’ve ran many outlets that way also. Be nice if you cover better methods for the average joe to install with little skill level. Like me! 🤗
A very nice remodel. The only thing I might of considered, with the power outlets being pulled out, I would of upgraded them to power outlets with USB charging ports.
Great project. Need to do this for the wife. And I'm so glad you put in inserts to cover the Romex. I saw the exposed, yellow wires and I was like, "April, nooooo!" lol
you forgot to put the wire in conduit for CODE no bare wires are to be seen or that can be hit at any time Also you could have used 14-2 instead of 12-2 wire for it's a lighter wire just for lighting and easer to pull also other than that great video
Amazon or eBay a roll of LED lights they also can change color stick on bottom of the cabinet run them underneath down and back leave them on 24/7 they never get hot last forever almost
Nice vid I would just put a pelmet on the cupboards.cover the wire behind it until I reached the socket then cut the plasterboard especially for Brick houses then you have less chasing the wall out.
I loved the grenade sitting in the kitchen window. Nothing like being prepared for anything...
Thanks, April! The most helpful thing for me is showing me that it's okay to cut the drywall to get the job done. I've been trying to find a way to avoid cutting open the wall to fish an outlet from one room, across the hallway, and into the other room. I'm just going to bite the bullet and use the multitool to make a few small access cuts.
That's exactly how i feel, i still think it's not ok to cut the drywall but i see there is no way around it.
We already had backsplash tiles when I installed my under cabinet lighting. Luckily the box I was running the electric from was an old-work box so I was able to pull it out to more easily run the cable up the wall. I removed the cabinet above and routed the cable out where the ~1" top recessed area of the cabinet is. I re-hung the cabinet to hide my cutouts and wired in to a 12v transformer / switch box for the LED lights. From there I ran the 12-volt lamp cords across the top of the cabinets and down the space between the cabinets to the under side recessed area where I would put the LEDs. At each workstation, I also ran extra lamp cord down to painted metal single blanks to be mounted underneath near the lights and used as touch sensors. Wired into the switch box we added an Arduino for logic control of the switches. The logic is programmed such that:
Single Tap cycles through low, medium, high, off, (repeat) dim levels for the lights of the workstation corresponding to that particular touch switch.
Long press cycles the lighting of all of the workstations to the same dim level. Any single taps within 5 seconds of a long press will cycle the dim levels of all workstations.
It's so fun and convenient to use and I can even tap them with my elbows if my hands are greasy or wet.
Good vid April. I connected a small discreet PIR sensor to my under cabinet lights on a 2 min cycle. As an added bonus it means at night we can enter the Kitchen for a quick trip, e.g glass of water and don't need to touch the main lights as these are more than enough, and they turn off automatically
As always, nice project April!
A good rule of thumb to always follow April, and yes, I know you're installing backsplash, but always, always use nail plates over the stud to protect your wires, plumbing runs, etcetera, through any stud wall, a good habit to get into, no matter. You may at one point sell and the new homeowner might decide they want to take your beautiful tile/stone backsplash down, now they nail really cool random lengths of horizontal thin barn wood up with their new zippy pneumatic 15ga finish nailer using 2.5" nails because that's all they have handy ...this may never happen, but, it only takes a moment to do this correctly. Thanks again, we enjoy and look forward to your videos.
Super helpful. Thank you
You made that WAY harder than it needed to be. Rather than run mains power, all that was need was low voltage. 5v or 12v is safer and more than enough to power SK6812 LED 60 LED/m light strips. Low voltage wire is thinner so no need to remove drywall and run through the studs. Low voltage wire is small enough to run between the cabinets themselves. The aluminum channels the LED lights strips run in are thinner and more low profile than the lights you chose. For the average homeowner, they're a better choice all the way around. Additionally, there a numerous options to wire them to smart devices that can be operated by the home assistant of your choice (Alexa or Google).
Just a tip, next time make an angled cut with your multi tool when you cut drywall...
Why?
@@Tellyfive easier when you're going to put them back in. The pieces will kind of "rest" in their cutouts.
Yep!!!!
brilliant !
my wife always wanted lights under her cabinets for long time in the kitchen for thanksgiving,christmas etc.but didnt know where to begin without making a total mess. but know i think i can take this on. thank you.
Looks great. My wife and I bought these led lights for under our cabinets that came with connections to have all the lights on one switch. It does use a typical plug but that could easily be modified and hooked into a wall switch. The lights came with hardware so they could be screwed into the underside of the cabinets as well as these double sided adhesive pads so if you did want to screw into your cabinets you could use those. I didn’t directly wire them into a wall switch as I was able to hide the wire and plug it into an outlet behind our fridge. On another note your kitchen is beautiful. A bit of kitchen envy going on here as yours looks very spacious.
I just installed some recessed led lights in our ceiling yesterday. My wife and I were talking about adding in a tile backsplash and this video popped up. Now I’m rethinking adding in the under cabinet lights as well as I can just cut out the drywall and run my romex from cabinet to cabinet. Electrical work has always intimated me in the past, but the more I do it, the more confidence I gain.
In most cities, get a permit if you open the walls. It protects you, your insurance and your house! Hire an electrician! It may look "easy", but there is a reason why they have to be certified and TRAINED.
Wow, our kitchens are nearly identical?! Nice! ... needed to update my lighting under the cabinets. And add to the toe kick for ambience. This helps greatly- thank you!
This is one the best and honest cabinet light installations other than a professional should install these lights...
For those items that have a keyhole design for mounting, but no way to get to them through the fixture, photocopy them at 100% and use the photocopy as your template. Great work as always.
Your kitchen looks great, April. You did a great job on the lights and the back splash.
I can't wait for Feb. 23rd. Isn't it amazing how blessed your life has been? I still remember those first two videos (which I enjoyed, BTW) and now look at you. You have a dream shop, a dream business and you're headed for TV stardom. Wow! I'm so happy for you. You deseerve it. Stay safe and thanks for all of the great UA-cam adventures.
Looks awesome, love your videos! Just finished my backsplash in ny kitchen, 1am this morning first time doing it, very proud!!... now I'm at work. 😴👍🏾
Our kitchen renovation included planning for the lighting all wires located etc...NOW the biggest challenge is finding a light fixture slim enough and affordable. Thanks for the tip on where to mount the lights under the cabs.
Code says you can’t have an open romex wire. Need conduit from the wall under the cabinet to the light fixture.
Was looking to see if anyone else commented on the bare exposed romex without conduit what about low voltage like power for rgb rgb lights does that require it as well?
@@patrickbentley4038 no not for low voltage
At the end of the video you can see that she covered up the underside with some stained plywood, so the nm cable is now mechanically protected!!!
I like the fraction to decimal boards, but how about a decimal to mm board. That would be really handy for cnc and machine work.
Led strips or low volt lighting makes this much easier to run the wire. You can put the transformer on top of the cabs or under the sink. Then you run the small low volt wire, or led strips, right along the front bottom edge of the uppers where it can't be seen.
Low volt is much safer as well.
Plus you can get RGB strips and have different lighting scenes.
@@DaddyHaxTV You could, if you needed better lighting though, regular leds would do better.
Rgb would look nice though, why not both? Bright white for work and rgb for all other times.
@@nevermindthebull0cks do you have a link for this?
@@biologistjim4905 They are just led lights in adhesive backed strips. They come with a driver. Amazon for cheap.
@@nevermindthebull0cks The driver is a power supply?
The most comprehensive video that I have found yet! Thank you, Ms Wilkerson!
Glad it was helpful!
So I literally just subscribed to your channel because you’re a woman doing this kind of work and I would like to learn from you for when my husband and I move into our new house. I did enjoy the video!
Awesome! Hope you enjoy my Channel. Thanks for watching.
A few tips, I recommend LED strip lights and the use of 14-2 romex vs.12-2. Secondly I would recommend also if the back splash is already done, lighting can be added with wiring inside cabs.
Two things about this:
1) If it's a 20A circuit, you have to use 12 ga wire.
2) You cannot use Romex here at all. Since the wire is exposed, NEC requires BX (armored) cable.
Hey April, thank you for that little trick @ 4:20.
That alone was worth my time to watch this video. 😊
You are really brave cutting your walls like this and drilling into studs andaround wires. This is like hacking and tinkering, it's doesn't feel right because it involves destruction and hiding it. It takes guts to do something like this.
I did much the same but made my life much easier by replacing the outlet boxes with 2 outlet strips. One 3 ft & one 6 ft, surface mounted, just under the back edge of the cabinet. Many more outlets, spread along the length of the counter, with the added bonus of a clear backsplash with no outlets to cut tile to fit around.
Instead of doubling your gang box and using 2 separate switches, get a decora style double-switch that allows you to have 2 switches in a single gang box. Also, looks better and matches your already existing decora outlets.
Ohh April - buy Ikea under kitchen LED lights. The modules feed each other (12v) and there's only 1 wire. All mess is under the cabinet (not visible). You get wireless Bluetooth button as well (dimmer) for LEDs
They are pretty bright - installed into my working space a 3 module rig.
Great video and extensive install. It might be easier to make just one run to each group of cabinets for each group of lights, and link them under the cabinets.
It’s been a while since I start watching your vids April. Nice project you are such a talented woman. A lot of guys will be envious of your skill and creativity. More power to your channel stay safe. New sub here..greetings from Philippines.
Under cabinet lighting ROCKS have it in the kitchen and it is great for doing stuff like turning on the coffee maker with out having to turn on the overhead lights. If anyone does this go with the LED sets as they are so much brighter and energy efficient
That turned out nice. Only thing I’d do differently is the patchwork. There’s no need to tape and mud the joints. Just screw the drywall back in place, and as long as it’s secure, you’re good to go.
Hi April, great job. I usually make the cabinets lower shelf a bottom chase to run my wires completely out of sight without the extensive wall break out that you did in your wall installation. On American frame cabinets where you have a half inch gap between the boxes (cabinets) that space can be use for risers to get wires up and over undermount microwaves or tall appliances like refrigerators. On European styled cabinets where the boxes meet flush, we'll use the small gap in the cabinets often found between the adjustable shelves. Our fixtures are our junction boxes and we generally use low voltage fixtures to that we can stay within the codes. We find this system works if you get a bad fixture from the manufactures or the client wants to add or remove a fixture later on. We'll have 90% access to the system without blowing up a lot of previous great work.
Sounds like a great way to do it. Could you make a video or link to one that shows how? Thanks!
@@richs5422 I'm semi retired but I think I can get into some of my old projects and do a show and tell. I uploaded a few of my cycling videos but never a link to someones else. Can be done in the comments I guess. Another new trick for this old dog to learn. :)
Her fixtures are completely serviceable, the driver is under the lense, makes it super easy to fix. Hers were simply a cost effective fixture, codewise there was nothing wrong maybe not requiring 12AWG but if thats all she had on hand... and there is no rule that sais you cant oversize your wire as long as the devices are rated for the size.. just reduces resistance and voltage drop, lol. And the more modern led strips require a plug either below the sink or above the cabinets which in her case would have been a heck alot more work. Her work was good and as a master electrician I approve her video, as my old teacher always said theres 20ways to skin a cat.
@@gophersgirl Yes, Aprils fixtures are easy to access to and so are the type that connect to one another in a daisy change. But any contractor that specialize in kitchens will tell, that the options are unlimited. Here in April's kitchen, her canbinets are mounted against the traditional wall. But would that light system work over an island or a penisula? And you have a client that does not want to see any hardware and the lights systems issued are cannisters or spotlights. This system that I suggested works with all lighting. Plus it's satisfies the number one objective, the client! ;)
I just installed Philips Hue led strips under my kitchen cabinets and control them via wireless proximity switch with time and couple day/night profiles. Imo quite a bit more elegant solution these days.
April, я в очередной раз восхищён Вашим талантом!
LED strips? They hide easier...
Or just buy really nice ones from ikea for 30 bucks that's perfectly fit
@@Jonasmonasonas Like which ones are nice?
@@IceTurf search for ikea irsta we have them in our kitchen and I can really recommend them but they also have different ones
Exactly. And if they over heat, lower the voltage or mount them on to aluminum flat bar. which you can then glue to the cabinet.
Could have put them on a dimmer switch as well, if they are dimmable LED's that is. 👍
With the proliferation of DC powered LEDs, why did you choose to use AC fixtures?
Better for the environment. No batteries
@@smartgorilla LED lighting fixtures that are wired. DC has lower current and doesn't require installing AC wiring behind walls. I won't go into the potential issues with following electrical code, etc. for this project. DC LEDs are just less invasive for a project like this one.
@@davidenete most leds are 12-24V, including the ones she used, if you paid attention in her video, her fixture had the driver built into the housing ( and replaceable), so the light still gets 12VDC. And those fixtures IMO are a bit more old-school but will also be a budget thing as well, you can spend 40$ or 200 and have almost identical look, for the strips with the plug in driver ( which you were thinking of that only need a LV cable run to each location) it usually requires to add an extra plug either under the sink or above the cabinates. Her way is quicker.
Thank you April! I have combed UA-cam looking for how to hardwire under counter lighting. After watching many, your video did exactly what I was looking for and answered questions I had in mind. This was perfect! I’m more ready and excited for my next DIY project!
You are so welcome! Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
Thanks April, this was a nice video. Like other comments I was surprised that you didn’t use LED fixtures... perhaps hat a future time you will consider adding IP67 weather resistant LED strip lighting along the upper edge of the cabinet base. These LED strips are fairly inexpensive and come in 5m (16’) lengths. Wishing you and your family a blessed new year filled with peace, prosperity, health and happiness. Greetings from NE Ohio.
Nice video April!!! Great job ur the best woodworker I know 🙂
omg!!! So much to like about this project! It has been executed very nicely. Products used are perfect & so is the skill & technique. The whole project just works. Great job!
I like this Idea, but for my place I would use leds that change colors, since the majority of the house has that possibility already. Also dimming could be nice based on the time of the day, I find that I only use my lights at 100% when it's required, but if not reading, or doing anything that requires that much light I keep my lights at 40-60% because it is more mellow. Back splash looks great!
Love the grenade
This is early 2000s work. In 2020s, you would use an 120v LED strip, wire the high voltage side to the light switch...and just use some 3m sticky tape. Dont have to destroy your wall, super easy and safe, better light coverage, and quick.
Yeah until the 3m tape starts to fall from the heat of cooking. You still will have to cut into the wall unless you don't hide the wire, which is trash.
Pretty well done, April! Really nice! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Just a suggestion on the recessed can light above your sink that you're never going to use lol. Why not use a conversion kit for a can light and turn it into a drop-down pendant light, this kit will take the recessed can that already exists and give you the ability to bring your light down to your sink area and give a more pleasing look in the process. Again just a suggestion but everything looks great, keep up the good work.
I was going to suggest the same thing. Pendants look great and are perfect for directing light down where you want it.
Looks so cool with those lights! I wouldn't have thought to do that but now looking around my kitchen....Hmmm.
Nice job. Love the grenade sitting on the window sill!
Thanks! I got that at the Souvenir Shop at the Admiral Nimitz WWII Museum. Of course it is unarmed and was used in Boot Camp Training in WWII, now they had some for sale. I thought it looked pretty cool. Thanks for watching.
@@AprilWilkerson Awesome. I've been collecting WWII stuff since I was a teen in the 80's. I am doing a kitchen remodel right now and found your videos. Super helpful.
Great work, I really love your kitchen, an the tiles you added.
Nice transformation. Backsplash looks great
APRIL,
NICE JOB!!!
HOWEVER,
I hate to be the bearer of bad news,
BUT,
There is under cabinet lighting available which is
12volt & remote control. All low volt so no romex reqired.
!
That multi-tool sure looks handy!
It's the best! Everyone should have one!
Love mine. I got the rigid from home Depot which isn't top quality but it is versatile with interchangeable heads. It has a multi-tool oscillating cutter head like she was using. I also bought a low profile angle drill attachment and a nailer attachment that works like a palm nailer. All of them have helped so much when I get into tight spots!
@@oodoodoopoopoo I use it to cut open walls, flush cut pvc stubs for closet flanges, cut shims, cut out brass or pvc “frozen” clean out plugs, I’ve cut open a tile wall with it to replace a faucet, cut out rotted toilet bolts. The list is endless of what it can do
@@plumberguy1689 - agree. My first use ever was a tight spot where my Ryoba Japanese saw couldn't accurately reach for trimming some door jambs to tuck the flooring.
@@oodoodoopoopoo The Rigid has a pretty good warranty as well - does it not?
Great video, love watching April’s projects.
Nice, about to do this project. I will be adding a USB and a cat6 cable also to the counter for all that hi tech kitchen stuff that is coming. Robot's are coming so might as well plan for them.
So well spoken and easy to follow. Thanks for the video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice job as always April, can't wait to see what you show us next.
I like it, wife has been asking for something like this for many years... to bad I tiled the back splash about 5 years earlier...
IKEA LED strips!!!! Bright, low profile and dimmable.
Yellow 12/2 is oversized and much more difficult to work with than 14/2, which is typically good for 15A lighting circuits. Good idea though, doing it before tile backsplash. 👍
Great video! I've been wanting to do this for a long time.
You could add a dimmer switch to get even more options for different effects. I enjoyed this video.
I know what’s going to happen in my kitchen in the near future. 👍👍👍. ✌️😎
Nice job but here in EU most of the houses are in brick. So putting cables in the wall is not as easy as in your house ... therefore I installed HUE ledstrips in LED profiles.
You have to plan such things early for any substantional building. It is not easy to add wires to reinforced concrete wall without ruining half of your kitchen.
Masonry and brick is far superior to american 'warehouse' type houses.
Your kitchen is looking great!!! Those under cabinet lights really highlight everything..
Thank you, April. I’ll be ordering from Kiwiko and your store for these educational gifts for my grandson. He’ll love it. God bless you abundantly.
Lots of love from San Antonio.❤️
I'll definitely be circling back to this down the road!
well done, althought you could have done this without destroing all your kitchen gebson board, just a 2mm flexable wires and an external small cable duct from the power source to the lights and you will save many time, tools and efforts, also you will save many damages that have to be fixed afterward. Also a tip, if you had used a Led light it would have been much smaller to be hidden under the upper side of the kitchen and more britter for the kitchen lightnning
Perfect timing! Just getting ready to start a kitchen "refresh".
Wow that turned out gorgeous, April! Nice work.
Just a tip, use 5/8 size of drill bits/auger bit and 14/2 wire instead of 12/2 it's more easier to maneuver and cheaper.
I like making a copy of the fixture on my computer scanner to create a paper template for drilling the holes. It is much easier to tape up the paper and drill than hold up the fixture and mark.
Tan brown granite countertops! Had them in the old home!
LOL ... Is there anything you can't do !!!
Great job on the install April
Great job. I think the LED strips look better.
I am an electrician. I do not criticize anyone’s work just glad I am not doing it! Great work.
Love this channel, it's always interesting and informative!
Yeah, won't be doing this myself, I would just end up with holes in my walls for yrs....
A meticulous work and a clean job, congratulations 😊👍👍
Your DIY vids are always so good
Love my Fraction/Decimal chart!
Glad you like it. Very handy for sure. Thanks for your support!
april i love your job..
Looks great! A lot of voltage and thick electrical wires for what could be small 12v LEDs! Also, dang those cabinets need to be lifted to the ceiling-IDK why folks still build houses with them so close to the countertops.
Nice job. I personally install them much closer to the back, as to avoid wire exposure, but they look great!
Great video as we have been contemplating doing this upgrade also and it gave some great helpful tips and ideas... Thank you!
This video was quite helpful.
Thanks! Glad you found it useful.
nice . and your performance very good . thanks.
0:44 One switch to rule them all!
From JUDY &JIMM
THANX KIDDO, We are amidst several remods, rehahabs, & NEW builds ?! ALSO GREAT TO KNOW We
Have A TEXAS Connect to 60 INCH Sawmiller For our Pecans & Live Oaks & Hickories , Holler when ready,
BUT NOT NEXT WEEK, You have A Great future , Jimm
👌 God bless your nation April.
Greetings from Nicaragua.
generally I'd put outlets inside the cabinet/s, fish up/down walls and go across the top of cabinets if there's space (conduit/wiremold/mc cable), alternate go down into base cabinets, basement to get across. put outlets in as few of cabinets as possible and use the lights daisy chain feature.
then again fishing wire like that can bet very complex, time consuming and costly if you hit things within the walls.
Amazing,thank you so much!
Great video but just need to look how to hook up the light switch and each light in more detail. But love all your videos. Thank you
Oh dear! I just installed motion/voice control lighting with plug on just one end to power it. It was just touch then I added a FEIT plug to work on my Google talk box. All neatly tucked under and only the light shining is seen. Plus I can change color. I think under this counter method will be history......about now in life. But ya got power! I seen the surround sound guys just cut Sheetrock to run power then just place a nice trim piece over it. I’ve ran many outlets that way also. Be nice if you cover better methods for the average joe to install with little skill level. Like me! 🤗
A very nice remodel. The only thing I might of considered, with the power outlets being pulled out, I would of upgraded them to power outlets with USB charging ports.
I like how you hid the romex with the pine plank board.
Great project. Need to do this for the wife. And I'm so glad you put in inserts to cover the Romex. I saw the exposed, yellow wires and I was like, "April, nooooo!" lol
you forgot to put the wire in conduit for CODE no bare wires are to be seen or that can be hit at any time
Also you could have used 14-2 instead of 12-2 wire for it's a lighter wire just for lighting and easer to pull also other than that great video
Someone else pointed out at 8:00 you can see she put in a panel to cover the wire, though didn’t mention it.
Thanks for sharing with us April, enjoyed the video. Fred 👍👍👏🏻👏🏻
Amazon or eBay a roll of LED lights they also can change color stick on bottom of the cabinet run them underneath down and back leave them on 24/7 they never get hot last forever almost
Nice vid I would just put a pelmet on the cupboards.cover the wire behind it until I reached the socket then cut the plasterboard especially for Brick houses then you have less chasing the wall out.