How to Install Mechanical Fuel Pump in 1969-1988 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks Manual
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- Опубліковано 27 бер 2012
- To find the correct fuel pump for your application please visit FuelPumpU
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This video is about how to install a mechanical push rod driven style fuel pump. Airtex is committed to providing the most up-to-date, in-depth fuel pump replacement information that professional technicians need to diagnose, repair and install today's complex fuel delivery systems. Airtex is the only automotive aftermarket manufacturer in the United States that designs and builds electrical AND mechanical fuel pumps for a full range of car, truck, fleet and specialty vehicles. - Авто та транспорт
I went from worried to do this repair to being almost completely confident in 2 minutes. Great video, thanks man!
Regardless of what most people think, your best trick is the black tape securing the wobble socket to the extension AND keeping the socket from going limp. Outstanding!
hilarious...I just bought a set of universals that are spring loaded from O'Reilly's. I needed them about 2 weeks ago when reassembling certain things on my '71 Highboy. Wish I would have had them then, would have saved a lot of cussing.
I didn't have safety glasses or fire extinguisher available but after few tries and some cursing I was able to get the fuel pump installed 👍
Aside from the hacksaw blade trick, (which I've never tried) you can take out the bolt on the front of the block in line with the pushrod and insert one of the bolts you take out of the fuel pump. If you have the pump off and lift the rod up, you can tighten that bolt enough to catch the rod and hold it in place. Then you don't have to hold anything and try to put the pump in at the same time. There's already not much room to work in there with one hand, let alone two. Just an idea for those who may not want to or can sacrifice a hacksaw blade. Its actually why that hole is there.
This is what I do, way easier.
Learn that trick back in the day thanks GM excellent idea
Thank you for this advice.
I’m doing a fuel pump now on a 1982 C 30 with a 454. I tried that trick but the hole doesn’t go all the way through on this one.
This is a good trick actually.
You made this a breeze I wouldve been screwed if I hadnt watched the Hacksaw blade trick, THANKS!
Tim Talley man i have been struggling with this for weeks🤣
Actually you just have to remove the bolt in front of the block just in front of the pump and the. insert a straw thru the hole to hold up the rod.... that’s how chevy designed it.
Just wanted to say thanks! I followed your procedure including the hack saw blade, worked like a charm. I did have a little trouble priming the new pump but figured it out. Great video and much appreciated.
The hacksaw blade trick worked GREAT! Last time I did a pump was using the grease to hold the rod.
Had to remove the plate and grease the rod and then put back the plate to work quickly before the rod falls again. This hacksaw trick eliminates all that. My block didn't have the boss drilled and tapped to use a longer bolt to hold the rod.
Awesome video. You saved me much additional grief and frustration trying to find a way to hold the damn pushrod up out of the way on my 84 k20. That hacksaw blade trick works great!
At 1:22 you do not need any hacksaw blade or any type of metal to hold back the fuel pump pushrod. Just simply remove the bolt thats right on front of the block next to the fuel pump and screw in a longer bolt finger tight. That bolt hole is designed in place by the manufacturer just for that purpose. Once the new fuel pump is in place, simply remove your longer bolt and reinstall your original bolt. It helps to put a small dab of silicone on the threads to prevent oil leaks.
Does the Fuel Pump Arm go Under the Cam Pushrod? Or ride on it?
Under
No, doesn’t work on my ‘67 Coronet …
Someone had told me this to wish I could visually see it done thanks for the tip. Working on 77 Ford ltd
Thank you for demonstrating how to position the rod. This will be my first time installing one
There is a small bolt on the front of the block, GM only, its visible in the video (1:29), that you can temporarily replace with a longer one before you remove the pump. that bolt will hold the rod up until you have installed the new pump. then you remove the longer bolt and re install the short bolt. much easier than a hacksaw blade.
right! I saw the hack saw blade and thought hack job, hardened steel potentially breaking inside the engine, smh.
nate dogg
Which bolt will that be i see 2 bollts and will it work for a 86 Buick regal
Do they have those on GMCs? What if you’ve already taken the fuel pump out!
I love that hacksaw blade tip for holding the pushrod. A real time and mess saver compared to the packed grease method. You guys rock!
I never used anything to keep the pushrod up I wonder if that is the reason why my blazer is running rough
Just got a 79! She's gorgeous! Appreciate the videoe tons!!
amazingly helpful, i'm glad i have an old beast i can work on this easily. thanks!!
conveniently edited through the most challenging part.
Dave Ringler right? I only wanted to see the video to see if there was an easier way to do it
@@oldmanuncle1237 These responses speaking about the most difficult part not being shown while not mentioning the difficult part is hilarious.
I must assume you're talking about the push rod part....
And try replacing it on a 1986 GMC Cargo Van...good times so far.
@@diablovegas7686 I’m dying for the record. Slowly and at god will only.
@@dhgcrack3r111 sorry to hear that
Thank you! It did help me changing the fuel pump of my Camaro 1971.
I was about to attempt this blind. Didn't know you have to hold the push rod up with something. Thanks for making this video.
Actually you just have to remove the bolt in front of the block just in front of the pump and the. insert a straw thru the hole to hold up the rod.... that’s how chevy designed it.
@@fleetcaretrucksmy block does not have the side hole
Thank you. Appreciate the hacksaw blade tip. Great brief video. Short and sweet and to the point. Very professional.
agree
Thank you. Video helped me save time and money.
Best video by far! Thanks
Is any kind of thread seal needed when re-attaching the fuel line? And will the mounting gaskets seal fine alone, without anything added to them?
Short and to the point. Thank you.
Dam he makes look soo easy, thanks UA-cam
Is it possible to install the pump without lifting the activating rod out of the way? Installed one on a 265 SBC and used the bolt hole in the front to hold the rod up while installing. The pump is not pumping fuel after a few times cranking. Will the fuel pump arm fit inside if it is not under the crankshaft lever? It bolted securely to the block and the bolts had some pressure on them like it was pressing the fuel pump arm down under the crank activating shaft. Hopefully this makes sense. Should I prime the carb with gas until it starts to build enough vacuum for the pump to work or is the lever not working? Thanks!
i have a "69 chevy w 250/6 straight. i have had my carburator recently rebuilt professional.
i ran at least a full tank of gas through the truck ...punning almost perfect-acceleration. The next day through now it started just shutting down on me and i can see alack of gasoline in the upper fuel filter . if i disconnect any line all the way back to the tank...fuel free flows through jus free flow.
any ideas?? new fuel pump inline filters new I'm at a loss...when it does restart it runs revs and ideas perfectly until you get to the "under a load" power loss due to lack of fuel pressure maintaining... fuel cap has been replaced too.
I've just replaced the original fuel pump on my '78 GMC pickup with the 350 engine. The truck has been rather hard to start for some time and required repeated pumping of the accelerator. My manual said that the fuel pump is the most likely cause and so, without any help to check it out, I replaced it. Regarding the push rod, I cranked the engine over with two touches of the key and found that the rod slides all the way back up into a hole. To do that, I applied heavy, long fibre grease to it and then grabbed the rod with curved needle nose pliers and pushed it up. It started to slide down, but slowly enough for me to get the pump arm under it first. Then I was able to bolt 'er up, starting with the right (easiest) bolt which I pre installed in the pump. Should probably have put the other one in the pump as well.
my fuel pump was leaking on my 1986 olds mechanical fuel pump and we patched it with rubber hose. after patching the car wouldnt run. I disconnected the fuel line to see if gas came out and not gas but car would run. can the fuel go backwards through the return line???
Rod will not lift up high enough to allow the actuator arm on the new pump to get under it? I have turned themotor over several times trying to find the poin on the cam that lets the arm up, but so far it is only rising about 1/2 inch above the housing? What can I do?
Best video I've ever seen on replacing anything ever. Yhank you
Great trick with the hacksaw blade.
+thefixer You are right!!!!!!
Thank you for saving me a headache.
Should I replace my fuel lines when replacing the pump? Is it necessary? The lines are more expensive than the pump.
i have a 1979 GMC Jimmy High Sierra. i'm not comfortable doing the work myself, but i'm trying to get a reasonable idea of the about of labor (time-wise) it should take to replace it so i don't get ripped off for labor costs. Can you give me a ballpark?
Hi, I have '62 Pontiac Bonneville, my pump is on the driver side... I imagine the steps are still the same..? Also, my pump is bolted together not the sealed style you show here...
Thanks for the info! I've seen some pumps with a vent tube. Is it necessary to have one?
Mossy500A mine is pumping gas into the carb through the vent or vacuum tube. Trying to figure out what’s up also.
I just changed mine in a 66 cutlass it won’t start do I have to prime that pump or something? The car starts with starting fluid
I love the music and information thank you
if I do this on my motor, will there come any oil out of the block, because it seems logic to me if there is a rod it need lubrication, and there doesn't seem to be a gasket to prevent oil from leaking through the rod in direction of the pump, which would mean oil would come out. r do I get something wrong here?
What causes a mechanical fuel pump to fail?
Will my gas pedal "soften" because of a faulty mechanical fuel pump?
Will my fuel pressure drop if the pump has gone bad?
I just ordered one of your pumps from Summit Racing to install in my 1980 Buick Regal, 3.8L V6. The car would shake on a cold start, but the shaking would stop when the engine warmed up. The car won't start at all now. Is that a clear sign of fuel starvation?
Please answer my questions, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I have a 1967 Pontiac Lemans and was going to replace my mechanical fuel pump, but i have a problem. Apparently the bolts that attach the fuel pump to the block are some strange star shaped bolts. I have gone to several places looking for a star shaped type socket but can not find it anywhere. Any suggestions as to where to get this socket? By the way it's not a torx but it looks like a reverse type torx bolt.
I have a 1988 Chevrolet c1500 2wd 5.7 engine. Right now it has a electric fuel pump in the gas tank . My question is can I replace the electric fuel pump with a mechanical fuel pump?
My 73 Chevy c20 is leaking from the fuel pump area , i found out it’s leaking from one the bolts on the block off plate. But one of the bolts is stripped (keeps turning) won’t tighten. How do I fix this issue . Thanks in advance.
Before you take the old one off pull the small bolt out from the side of block that goes into chamber with the pushrod that runs pump. Insert a longer bolt to hold the pushrod in place while making the switch from old to new pump, then pull long bolt out and put short one back in. No fighting the pushrod to keep it out of the way
That hacksaw trick was beautiful. The push rod is so light a hacksaw blade is the perfect size and more than enough strength to leverage that thing. Ran into this problem this morning and had the job done in less than 30min thanks to this video. No need to remove more bolts and hope you have a longer one.
@@silverstacker177
There's no "hope" about it.
You use one of the fuel pump bolts to hold the rod.
It's literally what that tapped hole in the block was made for..its only purpose is to provide hands-free retention of the pushrod.
Thank you!
I'm replacing the hard line from the pump to the carb on my and 350. I don't have an old fitting to compare to a new one. what is the fitting size that threads into the pump? thanks
zach johnson I don't know if you've figured it out yet but it's a 3/8 inch
Nice and simple DIY 👌🏾 a shop would charge over a hundred bucks for this 5min install and $20 dollar part
If you think this is a 5 min job , I'll pray for you 🙏
@@jimscycleandautotn8508 10min
Generally what size are the two mounting bolts?
How come the new pump bolt holes dont line up with the block
Can the engine be turned first, say to top dead center, so that the push rod is pushing less against the fuel pump arm when installing?
Yes, you could turn the engine to orientate the cam position.
The bolt that sits in the block, at the bottom of the fuel pump opening, it keeps the pushrod from falling out....do you know what size of bolt that is? I need re-thread the opening that the bold screws into, but none of the local parts stores have a tap that big. Any ideas?
I think it is 3/8", course thread
I have a 78 camaro just changed battery spark plugs ND cables distributor and alternator can a bad fuel pump cause car to shut off while driving
It isn't likely a mechanical pump will intermittently fail while driving. It will be good or bad, not much in between.
I've seen someone install install one by simply pushing the rod in by force and then putting bolts is that the wrong way to do it???
So the only fuel pump Autozone carries for my 84 z28 has three outlets on the bottom, instead of two. The hell is that all about and what should I do?
Good info thank you
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Hello how do I get the second bolt off my old fuel pump on a 81 cutlass supreme 231 v6
It may require you to use a "wobble " or "swivel" socket or extension to get good alignment on the bolt.
Great information, BUT how do I remove the piece of hacksaw blade that just broke off and fell deep into my engine? This would have fixed my fuel pump problem, but i cant put it back on until i remove the hacksaw blade. As a beginner I'm soooooo bummed now. My magnetic reach tool can't get to it.
I’m curious how you ever got it out
Theres a short bolt on front of block that lines up with your fuel shaft! Remove it and temporary install a long bolt by hand and it will hold the fuel pump shaft up where it belongs until your done installing your new one, dont forget to remove the long bolt and let the shaft ride down on pump plunger, reinstall the short bolt you took out the front. He didnt mention this, he probably doesnt know, its tricky to get pump pump shaft back up from the bottom when it comes down,
What if my new pump has a different number than my old one and the old one is longer?
Good info
My fuel pump rod has dropped down and will not raise up sufficiently to install new pump actuator arm under it? Ihave turned themotor over trying to get the cam to allow it to slide further up into the engine but it won't go far enough to get the arm under the rod? What next?
What the guy doesn't show is the proper GM procedure for holding the pushrod out of the way when installing the pump. At 1:29 you will see a bolt head on the front side of the block in line with the pushrod. It is a plug and can be removed. Then thread a bolt in far enough to lock the pushrod in the upper most position. Then install the pump.
***** Several people have told me the same thing, about using the longer bolt to block the push rod.
How does one know when the pushrod is in the most retracted position?
Is this something one can do after they remove the pump, turn the crankshaft by hand (wrench) until the pushrod retracts?
Anyone know if you can do the bolt trick on a Pontiac 400?
I'm replacing the pump on a C50 SBC Boom truck. You would have to break your arm in two places and take the stops out of your neck so you could completely turn your head around. Removing the alternator, heater hose, lengthen your torso about ten inches. Than just maybe. The small bolt.....you would need another lifetime to start that one. Solution? Electric fuel pump here I come.
Good video. Can you do the fuel line from the pump to the carburetor.
Lines aren't our specialty. Pumps are! I will add it to the growing list of video requests though.
Ok I installed a brand new pump exactly how you did and it has no suction truck won’t start, line is not clogged and fuel is new in tank why wouldn’t it start?
you would be ahead of the game to removed the small bolt in the front cover and install a longer one finger tight to retain the pump push rod. no need for a hacksaw blade.
Its a pity they don't show you, how to replace the fuel pump on a SB corvette with air con. Because it isn't that easy as per the video
I am installing a 307 motor from a 70's camaro in my 1954 Dodge 1/2 ton but the motor doesn't have a fuel pump. I got 2 pumps from a buddy of mine but one has a long pump arm and the other has a long arm. How can I tell what one I should install???? Any help will be appreciated.
By looking at the pump you really are just guessing. Numbers stamped in the pump may help identify what pump you actually have. Or, go with a new pump for you application. That way you know it is correct.
@@AirtexFuelPumps Thanks for your info. My problem is that there was no pump on the motor when I got it and the pumps that I have are new and have no numbers on them. All I have to tell you is that one has the long arm and one has a short are. I found another new one in my box of parts that has a short arm and two small line that hoses can be attached to. Now I am really confused. I need to find a site with pictures I guess.
Andy's Dog House ; Look at the one in the video, thats the type you need. SBC short arm on the pump: mine was for a;Corvette 1968 327- Corvette 1969 with Rochester carb-&1970-71-72 350 with Holley carb; It looks just like the one in the video and your sbc 307 fuel pump will be the same they where made 1968-1973 not hard to get just go to parts store and tell them the year of your 307 and the car or truck that it came out of and if they know what they are doing they should have one in stock or able to order one for you...
@@dustinsirrine227 Thanks for dropping by. Thanks for your info. All the info that I can get will be a great help.I am learning as I go and having fun doing it. Thanks again.
The HACK SAW BLADE is a great idea. Thanks.
Do you have to drain the crankcase first
I am replacing the pump on my 1986 southwind motorhome. I am trying to figure out what tool I need to remove the line. I have a 5/8 wrench and I'm getting met with blank stares when I ask for a line wrench and show a screen shot of the video. I need more info on this please.
I am not sure why the blank stares. 5/8" is a standard size wrench. Line wrenches aren't an uncommon wrench. I would try an online search of the local stores that sell the wrench and take the listing to them.
Airtex-ASC Performance Pumps thank you for the reply. I was able to locate the tool and figure out what I wasn't doing right. I've hit it with pb blaster 5 times, knocked it, wire brushed it, and it's not coming loose. I am calling on stronger reinforcements due to my size.
It won't hurt letting the PB Blaster soak for a longer time. Try one more time before the reinforcements arrive!
Airtex-ASC Performance Pumps I am only 100lbs and have nerve damage in my dominant hand, I can logically figure out most things but physically I admit I am not always capable. I got the pb blaster on it Sunday and Monday. I also found that my pump might not be the cause. The hoses connecting the in line filter to the fuel line on either side were completey dessimated. There is no way there was pressure in the line. It went from starting fine, to needing gas in the carb, to not starting at all.
while you are there replace anything that even remotely looks suspect.
I have a 75 Caprice 400 small block is it. the same steps ?
This is a typical replacement for a push rod driven pump. The 350ci and 400ci use the same pumps. Same procedure.
Couldn’t find a hacksaw blade but plumbers tape did the trick too
What tools are needed?
شكراً 🌹
I have a 1984 Chevy stepvan 30 with a 5.7l and recently have been having issues symptoms are feels like it's not getting any Gas jerking every now and then finally replaced the fuel filter worked great for awhile then it started up again usually works great at 3am but on my way back home around 11 am sometimes it starts acting up again feels like No gas and dies Can this be my Fuel pump going out?
when was the last time you changed your fuel filter?
+joshua bunch just changed it two days before it started acting up more. I replaced both the one on the carb and the external one on the fuel line. Problem still prisisted I finally had the Fuel pump replaces yesterday I guess I will see if my Problem was solved tomorrow, under my Normal driving conditions
+PeteyPablo okay good, yeah I think I meant to say fuel pump.
+PeteyPablo Were you able to figure out what the problem was?? I have the same problem with a 79 el camino. I changed the d is. Cap, Module, Filters, and still have what you are describing.
+joshua bunch thanks for your reply it's been two working days and the truck has been running like a champ. Glad it all worked out still bummed about the one day I lost when the pump gave out for good. But all is great now.
I’m replacing the fuel pump on my 77 nova but I can’t find the pushrod. I even inserted my finger just to try to locate it but found nothing, I don’t want to install it just to deal with more problems
I have a 77 and it was right there. Maybe it was just staying up for you which is lucky
CAN, YOU PLEASE,LET M3 KNOW ON A MECHANICAL FUEL PUMP IF?? THE PUSH ROD ITS OK TO BE BENT OR HAS TO BE STRAIT. ...PLEASE REPLY...THANKS.
THANK, U VERY MUCH .....
We live a pie in our day
DEESKI-OHTTO!
Hahaha waterboy,you get it? OG Farmer fram?
I have oil gushing out of where the fuel pump bolts up to. Is that normal?
No that is not normal. It could be the gasket slipped out of place when the the pump was installed. The pump housing may be cracked from over tightening. Whatever it is, it is not normal and needs to be addressed.
This also can cause a major oil leak and have your vehicle jerking while driving.
What is the name of the plate bolted on to the block that the f/p bolts over? I have a car missing that and need to find that plate! (And no not the fuel pump block off plate)
To safely answer your question we would need to know your application. Make, model, year, engine displacement.
Airtex-ASC Performance Pumps it is a 1980 Chevy Elcamino 3.8l V6
Airtex-ASC Performance Pumps I've been looking everywhere for the fuel pump mounting plate and have no luck!
Airtex-ASC Performance Pumps it looks different from the one in this video. It has one 3 bolts. Ok on the top center and two on the bottom
There are two different 3.8's used in a 1980 El Camino. The first uses pump #41386, the second uses pump #41209. Both of these pumps have two mounting holes. I'm not sure what you truly have.
What if I install without pussrod up and out of the way ?
what size wrench to remove the bolt for the line
I think its a 15mm
On my 350 there is a bolt hole in the front of the block where you can install a special bolt that has no threads near the tip. when installed in the block it will put pressure on the rod and keep it from sliding forward. I don't know why this guy doesn't use it. Maybe my block is a different year.
Your block is most likely different than the one Richard is working with.
I tried everything with the pliers, saw blade etc. and got frustrated. I then used one of those pen magnet parts retrievers to lift the rod and stuck a tongue depressor/popsicle stick underneath it. That was a piece of cake to then slide the pump in.
Says to use a silicone gasket sealant - yet ALL silicone gasket sealant manufacturers specifically say not to use with petrol.
What is the thread ?
5/16 or
Why not replace the 4 bolt plate gasket behind it?
Mike Toenies, It was felt that at this time it was not a requirement. There is nothing wrong with replacing while replacing the fuel pump. Thanks for the input!
i need help, which line goes where?
pay attention when removing,make notes,take pictures etc reinstall in the exact reverse order,this applies to taking apart ANYTHING
What happens if u don’t push the rod up and still install the pump?
You can't. You probably figured out by now, but for anyone reviewing the comment
参考になります
Air pressure rotary pump are cheap and available in power tools so least industrial modification needed
Is that a 454?
Yeah thanks, and be nice to tell people 7/16 for the bolts and 5/8 for the line...
what the thread 5/16
Also my fuel pump is on the driver side and its the same type of pump you installing
Can you turn the back ground music off?
watch square body mechanic .. . there is a bolt to hold plunger up. i have so many emission in the way could not see bolt hole and no access from top enjoy
What about a g20 van? Everybody is working on a c10!
Yes and how much do i have to take off of the engine before i can reach it?
How do one with factory AC. ! Not even close!
Same pump but a bit more difficult on a g van.
Yeah. Even the hack saw trick is difficult in here. I'm lying under it as i'm commenting this
Aha! You don’t know about the short bolt you remove from the front of the block, and install one of the fuel pump bolts in that hole. The bolt is long enough to hold the pushrod up away from the FP arm. When you have one bolt semi tight, remove the bolt you installed, and use it to finish attaching the fuel pump. Put the short bolt back in the front of the block. No hack saw blade? No worries, this method works best.