How it is done in a shop for replacing the actuators or the heater core: the whole dashboard instrument panel and upper steering column is removed as a unit and placed on a towel on a workbench. Two hours out, two hours in. Two people are needed for the lift out and reinstall. The shops who quote $2,500 have not figured this out. I will give kudos to gmcphoto for a clever DIY one man operation leaving the dashboard and steering wheel/column in car spread out over a few days, especially the hole above the clock. In the shop way the actuators are replaced within minutes with the complete dash out of the car. The shop way sounds more intimidating - but I promise you it is much less work, fewer parts to remove, faster, and easier. You only need the second person when lifting the whole assembly out or in. In the shop way you can leave the passenger airbag, dash trim, instrument panel, radio and HVAC controls, steering wheel and column all attached to the dashboard. Basically: disconnect battery, remove top dash trim and four small fastener screws by windshield as shown in this video, remove both left and right footwell sill trim, remove footwell electrical connectors on both sides, disconnect shifter cable from steering column (don't forget the push clip holding the shifter cable to the dashboard assembly), disconnect lower steering shaft near firewall, on the engine side of the firewall pop off the instrument harness connector cover (its the one nearest to drivers fender), unfasten 10mm bolt to disconnect, then push firewall connector through to passenger compartment. Remove the two bolts/nuts holding each side of the dashboard assembly to the body as shown in this video. There is also one 8mm screw attaching the part of the center stack air distribution housing to the heater core housing - its on the lower passenger side of the stack and is almost visible at the 4:00 mark its kind of below his hand slightly to the right, you can see the housing he is holding at 6:59 with the screw hole by the dark gray electrical connector. Then two people can lift this whole assembly out of the car. I will echo gmcphoto's sentiments that this is not hard work, it is tedious, but is not suitable for a novice mechanic.
Thanks for your comment. It would be so nice to see a video of the method you described. I approached this job from simply not knowing. However I don’t recall seeing any harness disconnects on the driver side that would facilitate you being able to completely remove the dash. They have to exist from a factory assembly point but I didn’t see them. My method especially being a one man show worked and nothing was damaged. Definitely a job you want to in an A/C garage or cooler time of year.
Your video was a great explanation, and it would be the way I would DIY this if working alone - especially the genius hole (not needed when removing the complete dash assembly for a repair on a work bench). The complete fully fitted dashboard and steering column assembly is too heavy and unwieldly to handle without two guys. Pop your hood, look on the far driver's side of the firewall, there is a large electrical harness connector that looks unremovable because it has a pop off cover. Underneath that cover is a 10mm bolt in the center. Unfasten that bolt and the engine compartment side of the harness comes off. There are a couple of squeeze plastic tangs that when released allow you to push the interior side of this harness connection into the passenger compartment. The shop method is not covered in any book or video, just developed by mechanics doing the job a few times and realizing you can more easily remove it as an assembly. Its kind of like in the old days when guys learned that for some car/truck models it made the job easier and faster to remove the whole front body clip of a car when pulling an engine.
I finished the job up and yes, you can do it yourself. As you stated, the BEST TIP you offered was the hole you drilled in the plastic to access the mystery screw. My only tip was to use a "step drill bit", which is one of those cone shaped bits with ever enlarging holes and PLACEMENT of the hole as far back, meaning place the bits as far back (into the passenger compartment)(or high) is critical. I noticed the notch you had and that small notch you cut will make a difference. I went with the biggest hole I could, which was about the size of a real old silver dollar like yours or bigger. Even with a flex swivel attachment on a 1/4" drive using a 7mm socket, it was TIGHT. But once you get that screw out, plus one more not shown in your video, you can wiggle the center stack out and replace BOTH actuators. Don't go cheap...do them all as you're right. Motorcraft ones are between $32 and $39 bucks a pop. If someone can document better ones, then buy those, but I replace 3/5 and the other two can be accessed with the dash intact. So my hats off to you for pointing this out to anyone undertaking this job. If I had to do this again, I could probably do it in
Great video.... I see people pay $2,500 to have these changed.... Thank goodness I can do my own.... This is the best video on the 03-11 Town Car blend door actuators by far!!
Great video bro!!! My its 2006 only blowing in floor vents, it does code 1264 to replacement all 5 actuator isn't necessary pull the hole dash out? Thank you
If only there was an access door on top of the dash for the BDA. This would be a 15 minute job. Or if the BDA was batter made. The gear is plastic which decays from daytime heating and time.
I'm assuming you removed or at least "hinged" the dash (you did) and then removed that "center piece" AKA plenum chamber...the one with the "mystery" screw. My question would be...why remove that center piece/plenum chamber, since I assume you're able to replace both actuators (YH 1754 & YH1755) on either side as they just screw in with 3-7mm screws? I found it fascinating that people leave a (loose) nut in on the drivers side and pull away on the passenger's side without much thought of bending anything. Based on this video, I decided to replace BOTH the aforementioned parts as like you, I don't want to be doing this again next year. You are spot on with the airbag. Just remembered to removed the two silver 8 mm bolts from UNDERNEATH the airbag before yanking. Luckily, mine gave way easily on the left side...not so much the right. But to recap, why take the center piece/plenum chamber off in the first place?
I could not physically get to the left side top plenum actuators hence why I removed the plenum box. I definitely agree once you gain access replace them all.
@@gmcphoto I awaiting parts. Can you elaborate..."could not get to the left side". Was that because you couldn't pull the dashboard out far enough, preferring to keep it "hinged" rather than moving both sides out. Likely I'm gonna find out this weekend, but would appreciate your commentary. Like you, I'm also retired and I guess most owners of these cars fit our profiles
Most of the main wiring harnesses run to the left side of the fire wall which prevented me from pulling the dash back far enough to gain access to the actuator screws. I also didn’t want to force anything fearing I’d damage a wire and that would be another nightmare scenario. I absolutely hate chasing electrical issues. And you would really find out until it was back together again.
@@gmcphoto I certainly can’t argue the logic. At least it gives me something to look forward to. I’m hoping not to have to remove the radio and the clock and get the drill out.
Do you remember the code you had? My code says b2267 maybe hvac or actuator I'm still trying to figure out were exactly this code i have says to repair.
Thank you so much I have to get mine replaced not sure which one went out but definitely from what it sounds like would be beneficial to do when I replace my heater core which is also leaking
Hey I love the video and it has helped tremendously. One question. How did you get the 3 bolts reinstalled? One being the one you drilled a hole for. Which is what I did also. These things were a booger to get out. Thanks
Ok thanks . Patience is 90 percent . I still only got the one that I cut the hole for out. I haven’t dropped the steering wheel yet . Not sure which are the correct bolts
Honestly I’m not sure but if I was to guess it would be the top two on the center plenum. I’d replace all 4 because at around $35 each do you really want to go back in there.
I didn’t have to replace my one, just the 4 center ones. But if memory serves it was accessible once I removed my glove box. Located near the passenger foot well area. I’m sorry I can’t be of more help.
@gmcphoto thanks for a prompt response! I went through a couple of other full dash disassembly videos and found it. You're right. It's right in front of you when the glove box is out.
I replaced all mine, so I’d hopefully never ever, ever have to tackle this job again. I waited for a cool weather before I started tackling this as I live in FL. I also worked just 4 hours a day on this.
i too live in fla and agree 100 percent.. just thought i would ask, i dare not take on a task of this magnitude for fear of not repairing and reassembling it correctly... lots of mechanics have turned this job down for good reason i see lol
I'm sorry you didn't find it helpful. My intent was just to explain what fasteners to remove and there locations. Once the center plenum is removed installing the actuators is straightforward. This is a time-consuming job that requires general mechanical skill as was recorded with that in mind.
@@gmcphoto do you have any reccomendations on videos that show where they are actually located? The heat does not come out hot enough in my car and also when i switch to heat to ac it does not work at all. I know one of my actuators is out i dont know if thats the problem this car is giving me headaches thanks
@@diamondmafiamedia9100 there are 4 actuators on the center plenum. The top two can’t be seen even with the dash partial removed. You must remove the center duct/plenum to gain access. I won’t lie it’s a pain is the ass. There is a video on YT that shows how to use the a/c controls to put the system in diagnostic mode. The temperature display will show various codes. This may help you pin point your specific issue. However, for me I knew I had to replace a actuator, but figured if I’m going to go through the job of removing dash it just made sense to replace them all. It’s a job I don’t want to do again. Hope this helps.
How it is done in a shop for replacing the actuators or the heater core: the whole dashboard instrument panel and upper steering column is removed as a unit and placed on a towel on a workbench. Two hours out, two hours in. Two people are needed for the lift out and reinstall. The shops who quote $2,500 have not figured this out. I will give kudos to gmcphoto for a clever DIY one man operation leaving the dashboard and steering wheel/column in car spread out over a few days, especially the hole above the clock. In the shop way the actuators are replaced within minutes with the complete dash out of the car. The shop way sounds more intimidating - but I promise you it is much less work, fewer parts to remove, faster, and easier. You only need the second person when lifting the whole assembly out or in. In the shop way you can leave the passenger airbag, dash trim, instrument panel, radio and HVAC controls, steering wheel and column all attached to the dashboard. Basically: disconnect battery, remove top dash trim and four small fastener screws by windshield as shown in this video, remove both left and right footwell sill trim, remove footwell electrical connectors on both sides, disconnect shifter cable from steering column (don't forget the push clip holding the shifter cable to the dashboard assembly), disconnect lower steering shaft near firewall, on the engine side of the firewall pop off the instrument harness connector cover (its the one nearest to drivers fender), unfasten 10mm bolt to disconnect, then push firewall connector through to passenger compartment. Remove the two bolts/nuts holding each side of the dashboard assembly to the body as shown in this video. There is also one 8mm screw attaching the part of the center stack air distribution housing to the heater core housing - its on the lower passenger side of the stack and is almost visible at the 4:00 mark its kind of below his hand slightly to the right, you can see the housing he is holding at 6:59 with the screw hole by the dark gray electrical connector. Then two people can lift this whole assembly out of the car. I will echo gmcphoto's sentiments that this is not hard work, it is tedious, but is not suitable for a novice mechanic.
Thanks for your comment. It would be so nice to see a video of the method you described. I approached this job from simply not knowing. However I don’t recall seeing any harness disconnects on the driver side that would facilitate you being able to completely remove the dash. They have to exist from a factory assembly point but I didn’t see them. My method especially being a one man show worked and nothing was damaged. Definitely a job you want to in an A/C garage or cooler time of year.
Your video was a great explanation, and it would be the way I would DIY this if working alone - especially the genius hole (not needed when removing the complete dash assembly for a repair on a work bench). The complete fully fitted dashboard and steering column assembly is too heavy and unwieldly to handle without two guys. Pop your hood, look on the far driver's side of the firewall, there is a large electrical harness connector that looks unremovable because it has a pop off cover. Underneath that cover is a 10mm bolt in the center. Unfasten that bolt and the engine compartment side of the harness comes off. There are a couple of squeeze plastic tangs that when released allow you to push the interior side of this harness connection into the passenger compartment. The shop method is not covered in any book or video, just developed by mechanics doing the job a few times and realizing you can more easily remove it as an assembly. Its kind of like in the old days when guys learned that for some car/truck models it made the job easier and faster to remove the whole front body clip of a car when pulling an engine.
I finished the job up and yes, you can do it yourself. As you stated, the BEST TIP you offered was the hole you drilled in the plastic to access the mystery screw. My only tip was to use a "step drill bit", which is one of those cone shaped bits with ever enlarging holes and PLACEMENT of the hole as far back, meaning place the bits as far back (into the passenger compartment)(or high) is critical. I noticed the notch you had and that small notch you cut will make a difference. I went with the biggest hole I could, which was about the size of a real old silver dollar like yours or bigger. Even with a flex swivel attachment on a 1/4" drive using a 7mm socket, it was TIGHT. But once you get that screw out, plus one more not shown in your video, you can wiggle the center stack out and replace BOTH actuators. Don't go cheap...do them all as you're right. Motorcraft ones are between $32 and $39 bucks a pop. If someone can document better ones, then buy those, but I replace 3/5 and the other two can be accessed with the dash intact. So my hats off to you for pointing this out to anyone undertaking this job. If I had to do this again, I could probably do it in
Great video.... I see people pay $2,500 to have these changed.... Thank goodness I can do my own....
This is the best video on the 03-11 Town Car blend door actuators by far!!
If you got that far, just go ahead and replace them all
Are all the actuators except the recirculation actuator the same part number? I’m having no luck finding parts. I only come up with two part numbers.
I put the p/n in the video as subtitles fast forward through the video to catch them.
Thank you for making this video.
Very good info how did it came out??
No issues at all, everything is working as it should.
great how many miles do you have on the car ?
are you in Florida by chance?@@gmcphoto
God it takes a lot of courage and patience to do what you are doing.....
I have done three Corwn Vics. It is a royal pain.
Great video bro!!! My its 2006 only blowing in floor vents, it does code 1264 to replacement all 5 actuator isn't necessary pull the hole dash out? Thank you
I left my Town Car running with the keys in it at the projects.
My 2006 towncar signature Ltd has no vacuum tubes line to module . Is it normal?
If only there was an access door on top of the dash for the BDA. This would be a 15 minute job. Or if the BDA was batter made. The gear is plastic which decays from daytime heating and time.
I'm assuming you removed or at least "hinged" the dash (you did) and then removed that "center piece" AKA plenum chamber...the one with the "mystery" screw. My question would be...why remove that center piece/plenum chamber, since I assume you're able to replace both actuators (YH 1754 & YH1755) on either side as they just screw in with 3-7mm screws? I found it fascinating that people leave a (loose) nut in on the drivers side and pull away on the passenger's side without much thought of bending anything. Based on this video, I decided to replace BOTH the aforementioned parts as like you, I don't want to be doing this again next year. You are spot on with the airbag. Just remembered to removed the two silver 8 mm bolts from UNDERNEATH the airbag before yanking. Luckily, mine gave way easily on the left side...not so much the right. But to recap, why take the center piece/plenum chamber off in the first place?
I could not physically get to the left side top plenum actuators hence why I removed the plenum box. I definitely agree once you gain access replace them all.
@@gmcphoto I awaiting parts. Can you elaborate..."could not get to the left side". Was that because you couldn't pull the dashboard out far enough, preferring to keep it "hinged" rather than moving both sides out. Likely I'm gonna find out this weekend, but would appreciate your commentary. Like you, I'm also retired and I guess most owners of these cars fit our profiles
Most of the main wiring harnesses run to the left side of the fire wall which prevented me from pulling the dash back far enough to gain access to the actuator screws. I also didn’t want to force anything fearing I’d damage a wire and that would be another nightmare scenario. I absolutely hate chasing electrical issues. And you would really find out until it was back together again.
@@gmcphoto I certainly can’t argue the logic. At least it gives me something to look forward to. I’m hoping not to have to remove the radio and the clock and get the drill out.
Great information 👍🏾 thanks
Do you remember the code you had? My code says b2267 maybe hvac or actuator I'm still trying to figure out were exactly this code i have says to repair.
Thank you so much I have to get mine replaced not sure which one went out but definitely from what it sounds like would be beneficial to do when I replace my heater core which is also leaking
Hey I love the video and it has helped tremendously. One question. How did you get the 3 bolts reinstalled? One being the one you drilled a hole for. Which is what I did also. These things were a booger to get out. Thanks
I used a swivel on a six inch extension and used a small piece of tape to hold the screw into the 7mm sockets plus a whole lot of patience
Ok thanks . Patience is 90 percent . I still only got the one that I cut the hole for out. I haven’t dropped the steering wheel yet . Not sure which are the correct bolts
Are there 4 or 5 to replace?
4 on the center cluster. Behind the radio. There is another one the passenger side foot well.
Which actuator diverts air to defrost windshield?
Honestly I’m not sure but if I was to guess it would be the top two on the center plenum. I’d replace all 4 because at around $35 each do you really want to go back in there.
You sound like Ray from Everybody Loves Raymond :)
How do I get to the recirculator one? Took glive box off, was only able to see the right mail blend door.
I didn’t have to replace my one, just the 4 center ones. But if memory serves it was accessible once I removed my glove box. Located near the passenger foot well area. I’m sorry I can’t be of more help.
@gmcphoto thanks for a prompt response! I went through a couple of other full dash disassembly videos and found it. You're right. It's right in front of you when the glove box is out.
Your climate control module hanging with 2 electrical harnesses but NO VACUUM TUBES ?
My 2008 Signature Limited model had no vacuum tubes.
@@gregmccall8553my ‘07 has no vacuum either.
Brilliant!
Would u like to work on mine? Too big of a task for me. Lol but for real
I replaced all mine, so I’d hopefully never ever, ever have to tackle this job again. I waited for a cool weather before I started tackling this as I live in FL. I also worked just 4 hours a day on this.
i too live in fla and agree 100 percent.. just thought i would ask, i dare not take on a task of this magnitude for fear of not repairing and reassembling it correctly... lots of mechanics have turned this job down for good reason i see lol
Your not even showing anything though how to actually put it in
I'm sorry you didn't find it helpful. My intent was just to explain what fasteners to remove and there locations. Once the center plenum is removed installing the actuators is straightforward. This is a time-consuming job that requires general mechanical skill as was recorded with that in mind.
@@gmcphoto do you have any reccomendations on videos that show where they are actually located? The heat does not come out hot enough in my car and also when i switch to heat to ac it does not work at all. I know one of my actuators is out i dont know if thats the problem this car is giving me headaches thanks
@@diamondmafiamedia9100 there are 4 actuators on the center plenum. The top two can’t be seen even with the dash partial removed. You must remove the center duct/plenum to gain access. I won’t lie it’s a pain is the ass. There is a video on YT that shows how to use the a/c controls to put the system in diagnostic mode. The temperature display will show various codes. This may help you pin point your specific issue.
However, for me I knew I had to replace a actuator, but figured if I’m going to go through the job of removing dash it just made sense to replace them all. It’s a job I don’t want to do again. Hope this helps.