THanks, it really helps to see the manual steps done by a human. Have you had experiance using any off brand release film. I just purchased this and am contemplating the operation costs (I counted resin of course but the at the cost anycubic has for film, the cost per print due to release film is very significant. What sort of life time do you typically get? Are there certain procedure settings that result in shorter or longer lifespans? The off brand films I see for sale do seem to get amazing reviews for a fraction of the cost but if you have experiance with any one of them in particular I'd love to know.
I have personally not yet tried using non Anycubic film, but the lifespan of FEP film can be long if you work carefully, and if you don't have too many failures that might cause damage. I personally don't believe it should be a problem using other FEP film, you will just have to dial in the first layer settings for whichever film you decide to use.
Funny enough the plate does have leveling screws hidden underneath some stickers on the sides they wluld be nearly undetectable had the support guy told me about them
I was having some super funky issues with prints and contacting support led me to manually adjusting the screw as well as I threw some washer in-between the build plate and the bracket cause I seemed short? Almost printing alot better now but having some crazy issues like I'm using phrozen 8k resin at .03 layer height and any exposure time under 3seconds the print won't even bother to build up
Im using m5s Pro, and I constantly gettin force lift error. Printer is leveled using high speed resin with 1.9 exposure time. What I am doing wrong? It only prints the bottom layer.
A lot of the settings is dependant on the resin you are using, but those settings can be found on the resin manufacturer's website most of the time. Are you using the Anycubic Photon Workshop Slicer?
i have just got the photo mono5s pro iam trying to print with washebal resin and keep getting fail and now i cant get a print with anycubic high speed resin any ideas
I have tried mine for weeks 2-3 failed print everyday. constantly trying, wasting resin, and I have never been able to print a thing yet will not adhere to bed. increased first layers all the way up to 55 sec in % sec increment's still nothing. any advice?
I had to take the first layer up to 90 seconds. Then a 99 success rate. Also use Anycubic photon workshop. I had to stop using Lyche for a higher success rate. Also just swapped to a regular feb not the speed feb, I am starting to reduce first layer print time now.
If you are experiencing the print pulling itself off of the FEP film, what could help is reducing the lifting speed of the bed in-between layers, faster lifting speeds could cause too much pulling force for the FEP film to hold onto the print, this will however increase printing times though.
A good tip to clean is to take a scrap resin print, put it on the bottom pf the vat then expose the bottom for 15-30s, and pull out the cured bottom using the scrap print, that should clean any residue.
Also, feel free to talk about any positive or negative experiences you might have had with this printer, and why you think this is either the best printer money can buy, or why you should rather look at other options
Here is a link to the Website page, you can just select the appropriate OS version you require: www.anycubic.com/pages/anycubic-photon-workshop-3d-slicer-software
What I did notice in your video was that you didn't print out the figurine you had uploaded initially but instead you printed out the dragon and didn't show the printer actually working, that's a little suspect. My question is why is that?
The reason was because my camera can only record up to 29 minutes, and the dragon print was 7 hours+ and printed overnight so I couldn't record the printing process, I can assure you that the dragon was printed on the M5s.
@@alvinjones593 I unfortunately only had footage of the print once it was finished, my camera only records for 29 minutes, and because the print was over 6 hours, I couldn't record the process, I apologise if this caused confusion.
I'm sorry to hear that, one thing I might suggest that could help is to lower the retraction speed of the bed, it could be that the force created when the build plate rises up is too much for the adhesion. A speed of around 5mm/s or even down to 2mm/s should be good, this will make the print take slightly longer though. Hopefully this helps a bit
My wife bought this for me for xmas. I haven't had good luck so far. Tried the app and it gives me 60 seconds to put in a code but it takes 2 hours for the email to come. I couldnt get it to connect to my wifi, and the first 2 prints failed. This is my first resin printer and im thinking i should have looked for a Fisher Price one to cut my teeth.
I'm sorry to hear that you have not been having much luck with this printer, a few tips that might be able to help is to remember that you need a specific "Fast Resin" to be able to print at those hyper speeds, the speed at which you can print resin is bottlenecked by it's curing time, do a little bit of research on the resin that you are trying to use and see what people say the best curing times for it is. Another thing is, if you you are experiencing the prints disconnecting from the build plate, this could be because of the rising speed, lower that to around 2mm/s - 4mm/s. Because of the fast lifting speeds, there is a great pulling force on the print which can sometimes be too much for the build-plate's adhesion, reducing the speed might reduce the amount of failures. Last tip is to not use too thin supports, you might think a support is too thick to hold onto the print, but if your settings are correct, you can remove the support without it doing any damage to your print, play around with thicker settings and see if you have more successful prints, you can than very gradually reduce the tip diameter of the support until you start seeing failures occur, than you know what the smallest diameter is without the chances of failures. Resin printing is a little bit tricky and there is a lot to learn, but it has a massive payoff at the end when you get a grasp on how it works. I hope some of this helps you and I hope for successful prints in you future!
@3DPrintingStorecoza Thanks for the reply. I did end up getting a few things to work out. My main issue was there was a thin layer of resin on the build plate. I scraped it off and had a better go. The other problem was the stl I downloaded was meant for pla and I think it was a difficult print.
I happy that you were able to find a solution, thoroughly cleaning your build plate after prints is a must, and there is always the unfortunate possibility that you might have a bad or corrupted STL which can cause a lot of problems as well@@junkopotomus
@@junkopotomusnote that resin printers don't work well with large flat surfaces, so you'll often want to angle your prints to avoid having issues. You can lower the retraction speed and increase the height so resin has time to flow under. That will increase the print time though. Also you need your room temp to be at the resin's recommended temp, otherwise it may not flow well and will take longer to cure. For the wifi, I'm not sure, but often iot devices have issues with 5ghz networks, so try decoupling your 5ghz and 2.4ghz networks in your router's settings and connecting to the 2.4ghz one.
I just want something that I am spending hundreds of monies on to have a preinstalled screen protector. I waste more money buying and trying to get a protector on correctly than I do anything else.
For me this printer is a nightmare, fails, problem with supports, bugs on slicer, print not at the level of 12k. I have given the printer to Friend and he didn't arrive to make anything with it. No never again anycubic, I have taken saturn 3 ultra and that's a printer with no gadget but very high quality print, and zero fail after more than 100 prints. m5s is a fail printer.
I will have to give it more time and testing to see if I come to the same conclusion or a different one, but Elegoo and the Saturn 3 especially are amazing too, I'm sorry to hear that your experience with this printer was not favourable.
@@DragonProtector there are no new firmware, I have big problem with the printer and anycubic. This printer is the worst printer made actually, I have Saturn 3 ultra without any of the m5s gadget, I am very satisfy of it, and 4 other printers and problems with. Anycubic have a bad slicer also, this is a bad compagny.
THanks, it really helps to see the manual steps done by a human. Have you had experiance using any off brand release film. I just purchased this and am contemplating the operation costs (I counted resin of course but the at the cost anycubic has for film, the cost per print due to release film is very significant. What sort of life time do you typically get? Are there certain procedure settings that result in shorter or longer lifespans? The off brand films I see for sale do seem to get amazing reviews for a fraction of the cost but if you have experiance with any one of them in particular I'd love to know.
I have personally not yet tried using non Anycubic film, but the lifespan of FEP film can be long if you work carefully, and if you don't have too many failures that might cause damage. I personally don't believe it should be a problem using other FEP film, you will just have to dial in the first layer settings for whichever film you decide to use.
@@3DPrintingStorecoza thankyou for the reply and for the insight. That helps.
Funny enough the plate does have leveling screws hidden underneath some stickers on the sides they wluld be nearly undetectable had the support guy told me about them
Oh really! That's really good to know, thanks for telling me
I was having some super funky issues with prints and contacting support led me to manually adjusting the screw as well as I threw some washer in-between the build plate and the bracket cause I seemed short? Almost printing alot better now but having some crazy issues like I'm using phrozen 8k resin at .03 layer height and any exposure time under 3seconds the print won't even bother to build up
As always, I hope that you enjoyed the video, if you have anything you want to ask regarding this printer, feel free to do so!
Im using m5s Pro, and I constantly gettin force lift error. Printer is leveled using high speed resin with 1.9 exposure time. What I am doing wrong? It only prints the bottom layer.
thx! I have had mine all setup but no idea how to calibrate the printing or settings for it. I got it back when early bird pre order was a thing
A lot of the settings is dependant on the resin you are using, but those settings can be found on the resin manufacturer's website most of the time. Are you using the Anycubic Photon Workshop Slicer?
Not done any 3d printing yet. I currently dont have a spot for it but want to be prepared when I do.@@3DPrintingStorecoza
So I guess the first step is to plug it in and turn it on? I don't know how to move that thing that holds the build plate. Hah!! I was right :)
I am an orthodontist. Will I be able to print dental models with the high speed resin and will the quality be the same?
I'm also an orthodontist. Trying to figure this out myself.
I order today my printer but i have question i can use my MacBook pc on this printer? Or is only window pcs?
Photon workshop is available on mac, you just have to copy to the usb key
i have just got the photo mono5s pro iam trying to print with washebal resin and keep getting fail and now i cant get a print with anycubic high speed resin any ideas
maybe a problem of lifting speed or exposure time ?
I have tried mine for weeks 2-3 failed print everyday. constantly trying, wasting resin, and I have never been able to print a thing yet will not adhere to bed. increased first layers all the way up to 55 sec in % sec increment's still nothing. any advice?
I had to take the first layer up to 90 seconds. Then a 99 success rate. Also use Anycubic photon workshop. I had to stop using Lyche for a higher success rate. Also just swapped to a regular feb not the speed feb, I am starting to reduce first layer print time now.
If you are experiencing the print pulling itself off of the FEP film, what could help is reducing the lifting speed of the bed in-between layers, faster lifting speeds could cause too much pulling force for the FEP film to hold onto the print, this will however increase printing times though.
A good tip to clean is to take a scrap resin print, put it on the bottom pf the vat then expose the bottom for 15-30s, and pull out the cured bottom using the scrap print, that should clean any residue.
Also, feel free to talk about any positive or negative experiences you might have had with this printer, and why you think this is either the best printer money can buy, or why you should rather look at other options
can you link share for Anycubic Photon Workshop? thanks alot
Here is a link to the Website page, you can just select the appropriate OS version you require:
www.anycubic.com/pages/anycubic-photon-workshop-3d-slicer-software
What I did notice in your video was that you didn't print out the figurine you had uploaded initially but instead you printed out the dragon and didn't show the printer actually working, that's a little suspect. My question is why is that?
The reason was because my camera can only record up to 29 minutes, and the dragon print was 7 hours+ and printed overnight so I couldn't record the printing process, I can assure you that the dragon was printed on the M5s.
@@3DPrintingStorecoza But you never even showed the dragon. 🙄 so suspect.
@@alvinjones593 I unfortunately only had footage of the print once it was finished, my camera only records for 29 minutes, and because the print was over 6 hours, I couldn't record the process, I apologise if this caused confusion.
I keep seeing people get this printing no issue off the bat but I've literally been unable to get a single print to stay on the bed.
I'm sorry to hear that, one thing I might suggest that could help is to lower the retraction speed of the bed, it could be that the force created when the build plate rises up is too much for the adhesion.
A speed of around 5mm/s or even down to 2mm/s should be good, this will make the print take slightly longer though.
Hopefully this helps a bit
How did totoro turned into a dragon?
My wife bought this for me for xmas. I haven't had good luck so far. Tried the app and it gives me 60 seconds to put in a code but it takes 2 hours for the email to come. I couldnt get it to connect to my wifi, and the first 2 prints failed. This is my first resin printer and im thinking i should have looked for a Fisher Price one to cut my teeth.
I'm sorry to hear that you have not been having much luck with this printer, a few tips that might be able to help is to remember that you need a specific "Fast Resin" to be able to print at those hyper speeds, the speed at which you can print resin is bottlenecked by it's curing time, do a little bit of research on the resin that you are trying to use and see what people say the best curing times for it is.
Another thing is, if you you are experiencing the prints disconnecting from the build plate, this could be because of the rising speed, lower that to around 2mm/s - 4mm/s. Because of the fast lifting speeds, there is a great pulling force on the print which can sometimes be too much for the build-plate's adhesion, reducing the speed might reduce the amount of failures.
Last tip is to not use too thin supports, you might think a support is too thick to hold onto the print, but if your settings are correct, you can remove the support without it doing any damage to your print, play around with thicker settings and see if you have more successful prints, you can than very gradually reduce the tip diameter of the support until you start seeing failures occur, than you know what the smallest diameter is without the chances of failures.
Resin printing is a little bit tricky and there is a lot to learn, but it has a massive payoff at the end when you get a grasp on how it works. I hope some of this helps you and I hope for successful prints in you future!
Same. I got mine and have had 2 fails. It's quite annoying and I'm thinking about just taking it back at this point
@3DPrintingStorecoza Thanks for the reply. I did end up getting a few things to work out. My main issue was there was a thin layer of resin on the build plate. I scraped it off and had a better go. The other problem was the stl I downloaded was meant for pla and I think it was a difficult print.
I happy that you were able to find a solution, thoroughly cleaning your build plate after prints is a must, and there is always the unfortunate possibility that you might have a bad or corrupted STL which can cause a lot of problems as well@@junkopotomus
@@junkopotomusnote that resin printers don't work well with large flat surfaces, so you'll often want to angle your prints to avoid having issues.
You can lower the retraction speed and increase the height so resin has time to flow under. That will increase the print time though.
Also you need your room temp to be at the resin's recommended temp, otherwise it may not flow well and will take longer to cure.
For the wifi, I'm not sure, but often iot devices have issues with 5ghz networks, so try decoupling your 5ghz and 2.4ghz networks in your router's settings and connecting to the 2.4ghz one.
I just want something that I am spending hundreds of monies on to have a preinstalled screen protector. I waste more money buying and trying to get a protector on correctly than I do anything else.
For me this printer is a nightmare, fails, problem with supports, bugs on slicer, print not at the level of 12k. I have given the printer to Friend and he didn't arrive to make anything with it. No never again anycubic, I have taken saturn 3 ultra and that's a printer with no gadget but very high quality print, and zero fail after more than 100 prints. m5s is a fail printer.
I will have to give it more time and testing to see if I come to the same conclusion or a different one, but Elegoo and the Saturn 3 especially are amazing too, I'm sorry to hear that your experience with this printer was not favourable.
did you make sure it was hot enough?
@@DragonProtector Yes I use thermalvatband on all my printer, it is just m5s is a big cheat. I never use it again too many problems.
firmware update? Maybe you got a defective unit?@@deneau
@@DragonProtector there are no new firmware, I have big problem with the printer and anycubic. This printer is the worst printer made actually, I have Saturn 3 ultra without any of the m5s gadget, I am very satisfy of it, and 4 other printers and problems with. Anycubic have a bad slicer also, this is a bad compagny.