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The best video i have ever seen to explain brake application and bias. Well done dave, amazing. One tip I learnt in the Porsche Cup Car, is the 4 coloured lights on the left and right side of the dashboard.... This shows which wheels are locking up, front or back as well as left or right so you can adapt application or bias based on the feedback. I dont have a load cell brake and i find it helpful to turn the brake pressure down to 80% in the options when using the Porsche Cup Car.
Good stuff Dave! This sort of thing is what the sim-racing community needs. Sharing this kind of info makes for better racing for everyone! Not everyone can afford to pay for racing lessons and such, it's hard enough to afford the gear and iRacing subscription! Cheers Dave! 🍻
The things that make this car a challenge to drive well are exactly the things I love about the car at the same time! When one can get it right and put together, it feels amazing!!!
Wow! I have raced real Porsche 911 GT3 cup cars for the past 3 years with ABS and I have been unable to drive the non-ABS 992 cup car in iracing. After this impressively clear video, I can now drive the 992 in anger and get the rewarding experience that I get in the real car. THANK YOU!!!! I am massively grateful. 🙏
Great video! Very well done! There are indeed some slight differences in the phases of brake release on the real car compared to iRacing, but you did an amzing job explaining how that works.
Awesome Video, I love that you showed what happens when not set properly. I struggled with this car, this video will help me understand the car more. Thank you!
The iRacing tyre model at times feels like me trying to judge how long to microwave hard butter for a sandwich, only to realise I hadn't selected defrost mode.
Well timed video Dave. I was literally looking for a braking tutorial on the 992 cup this morning after having issues at Zolder! Watched an old one of yours at the skid pan track which helped alot along with this. Thanks!
Omg I can’t wait to watch this. I got this car a long time ago and had trouble with it. Instead of putting in time to figure it out I said I get back to it later. Maybe now finally the chance to understand this car
So, What I'm taking away from this more than anything is that no matter what I try, my braking is not going to meaningfully improve until I get a load cell brake pedal. I'm not going to be able to apply braking effectively until I do.
@@roberthadfield2839 Hahahahah the base spring load is nice but they're nothing like loadcells. I'm using the CP5 pedals too and looking for some upgrades. 3DRaps has some braking mods to add some loads to the pedals. I don't feel like going LC as it does means I need a proper rig.
@davecamyt I love your races, I watch almost all of them, but your wisdom/knowledge is invaluable and appreciate these so much more as a sub-2k driver. In my 40’s, still working, not a ton of time to practice, and it’s so helpful to get these lessons. Thank you so much!
I think as an add it would be great to discuss how hard your pedal is to push. Originally I had it set to where it was way to loose and any nervous push would make them 100% instantly. that makes it hard to take corners consistently. Once I put some really hard springs on it, I could barely push it. That’s when I knew I had it. When you race or I should say when I race I get really nervous in corners because there are so many other cars around me. Before when it was loose I would get nervous and over compensate. Now with extremely hard pedals I have to work at it to take an apex. I noticed most of the time you want to be at 75% not 100% nervous Nelly would always push at 100%. This was revolutional for me. My pedals are cheap ones from china, they work great once you modify the heck out of them. Let’s be honest for some of us racing isn’t the only reason to be involved in this thing, we like to build or modify stuff as well. There’s whole generations of shade tree mechanics that I hope doesn’t disappear. So this is what a gen x person does, when they are not working… yep!
Unfortunately there is only one thing You can do... PRACTICE. Even if I was driving LMU without ABS, the Porsche Cup in iRacing is very difficult, its soooo easy to lock up, my god. But after 15-20 laps You can get it working, but the laptime wont be great yet :D
Can someone please explain the diff lock that is mentioned at 1:54. It doesn't make sense to me! I thought that the potential lock up after downshifting is caused by the engine slowing down the tires a lot when in high RPM and when you don't ease off the pressure from the brakes it can in combination with engine be too much braking at once so the tires lock up. When there is no load on transmission (engine braking) it should slow down the tires less and not more.
That's a different kind of diff locking. One caused by not rev matching when downshifting. the wheels are turning faster than the transmission/engine can output 👍
Great video and thanks for sharing Dave. Another car that requires careful braking is the V8 Supercar and when you get it right very satisfying as well.
Thanks Dave for those great tips. I just completed a race without locking up and no incident points. I'd be curious to hear your opinion about the RFactor2 version. Im glad I now can use another car in iracing thanks to you, but I still think iracing needs to sort out their tyres. Their overheating issues are more pronounced in low down force cars and 992 cup in iracing feels like a simple rework of the gt3 with less aero. In Rf2, directional control via trail braking is paramount but also weight control to manage traction. Very fun.
I prefer to be as far back as I can on the bb with the Pcup. Reason being is it gets the rear rotated, yaw into the corner. Christian the engineer at iracing said he adjusted the initial brake input in this latest build, haven’t tried it yet. I prefer the Pcup in rf2 just a little too much slip angle (typical rf2)The challenge with this pcup is when you’re in a race, to be exact on braking is almost impossible. And as you say it’s very sensitive on steering input. Daniel Morad had said in the past, “worst car in iracing” Last update he said it’s better but still wrong on long fast corners.
Great info Dave. This is also applicable to a degree to other cars too. One thing I have learned is adjusting my braking point dependant on the speed of the car, so if I'm puhing a bit harder than normal I brake a litle earlier rather than trying to stop the car in the same distance.
A great video. Looks like the making of a tutorial for new sim racers. If you did 10-15 chapters, I'd pay $100.00 + USD for that. Just a thought. Thanks Dave.
When you said grab a cup of tea I thought I’d tuned in to GM. I enjoy the P cup for the challenge. Really great video, particularly the points on BB - picked up some useful tips!
Thanks for this video. Very clear and useful information! Red text on a black background is very hard to read, though, so I'm glad you kept telling what brake bias you were using ;-).
Great video Dave! Thanks! So just for the dummies out there (me!): are you supposed to put the brake bias more to the front or to the rear as your fuel gets lower?
Hi Dave, I just bought the 992 and hate it for everything you showed. I spin it and I lockup the front wheels often. Smooth is just not in my wheel house but I'm trying. I understood everything you demonstrated. I was using only a fixed set up on test drives at Sebring. How do use or set up that short track like you did on Iracing ? I would like to be able to to do a little testing.
How much is the SimuCUBE Active Brake Pedal helping in this braking demonstration? I have HE Ultimates+ pedals that have a lack of motor vibration feedback, though I am looking into transducers. I'm a heavy initial input left foot braker and make locking up non ABS cars difficult to avoid. My right foot is my dominant foot, so I don't have precise/control modulation in my left foot as I do with my right. Wonder why sim hardware haven't had any interest in manufacturing a Brake Bias Adjuster. Michael Schumacher used one in the F1 Ferraris and Mercs during laps all the time.
@thenic123 Didn’t understood what you meant by: brake bias adjuster in sims ? Because you can adjust brake bias in sim like Dave does….. I also have HE Ultimates + and lock the tires easily for non ABS cars but I put all soft elastomers and put brakeforce to 90 KG (for me personally and my steady simrig) and after long straight I can brake hard without locking up because I can slam the brakes and it will be around 80% and then if I slam just harder it can go up to 100% brake input so noo software limitations used (because find it unrealistic and kinda cheating). Because I tried 70 Kg brakeforce and with my leg power I can hit too easily 100% which is insta lockups. (I’m 1m92 and 100 Kg so legpower is there 😅) that’s why 90Kg works best for me. Actually 100-110 Kg also works only when the brakepedal is freshly new lubricated with Dry lube PTFE , then it’s butter smooth and easy to go 100+ Kg brakeforce, but when using day in day for many hours it gets dryer and dryer and then pressing becomes harder therfor 90 Kg works best for 50-100 Hours of intensive use… then back Lubricating time. As for Simucube Active Pedals: as long as I’ve seen and heard and read about it, it doesn’t vibrate for lockups, only ABS. But it can change with software etc in future don’t know. (I do not own the Simucube pedals sadly and never tested it.) Hope I was clear with this book of a reply 😅
Another great Video, This applies as well to the NASCAR Gen7 car, I have found the Brake MC Sizing is as important as the Brake bias and of course changes the bias as well I have a couple videos trying to explain the Gen 7 but do not have the Subs you do
The best way to learn braking is using the G-Meter. How does it work: We need to accept, that a tire can only deliver a maximum amount of grip, before loosing traction. We need to learn, at which amount of G-Force the tire looses traction / maximum G-Load Lets say this is 1G. So at any given poin of turning, braking or accelerating u cannot u cannot put more Gs onto the tire or u loose traktion. When u look at a circular G-Meter u got the circles for G-Forces. In a perfect world u would stay at any time on the 1G circle to extract maximum grip out of ur tires. U can get 1G under braking or 1G under turning, but as soon as u brake and turn, u have to lower braking or turning less to keep the total amound of G-Forces at 1G. So if u turn 0.5G u can only brake 0.5G as both add up to 1G in total. Just look at the 1G circle on ur G-Meter. When u look at the G-Meter of very good drivers, the indicator stays almost perfect on the circle.
Thanks for this! I kind of thought this was how it worked (not just Porsche Cup) but it is could to have it explained this way. 👍 Now, If I could just be that consistent...
Great video, as always Dave 👍. I brake in exactly the same way as yourself, but I've noticed on some of the on-boards with very high level drivers, their initial application is more progressive on initial application rather than straight to 80/90% as quickly as possible and bleeding off. Any idea why this might be?
Very helpful video this os my favorite car. It took a while to get it eight and theree always more to learn. This car seems to extraxt more speed when using all the kerbs as it grabs traction at that point.
Can Dave or someone PLEASE HELP me, I'm using transducer for braking so in sim hub i see microlock ups it vibrates my pedal but on replay or the dashboard i do not see the lights pop up as a suggestion that am locking. So I wonder what to trust is it actually locking up or is it sim hub is bit more dramatic than it should be ? Please help guys please :) Thanks a lot :) my best so far at moza was only 50:1 which isn't great for top split :( so please help thank you :) PS: My theory is that it's micro locking the tyres which isn't being shown on dash board but it creates temperature which snatches away the grip and makes me lose time. My telemetry is almost same with some of the fastest guys so i shouldn't be almost 2 sec behind them :( I believe it to be locking up but I'm not sure. If it's true I will adjust my braking technique. With Lmp2 and other cars am faster but porsche cup NEVER :( HELP
Thanks for this video Dave! I just started driving this and the braking has been a struggle to understand, but I’m finally getting there. After watching this I feel I’m armed with the right tools to fully understand the braking now! Legend!
Also remember you do not need to downshift until you are off the brake. This makes for a more consistent braking profile, especially when turning as the front wheels are now also using their grip for turning, too.
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can u acknowledge why u deleted the video from last week
The best video i have ever seen to explain brake application and bias. Well done dave, amazing.
One tip I learnt in the Porsche Cup Car, is the 4 coloured lights on the left and right side of the dashboard.... This shows which wheels are locking up, front or back as well as left or right so you can adapt application or bias based on the feedback.
I dont have a load cell brake and i find it helpful to turn the brake pressure down to 80% in the options when using the Porsche Cup Car.
Yeah, I'm still struggling with PCC but this video is probably best and going to skyrocket my skill in braking zones for Porsche
No real tires were harmed in that video.
Great explanation Dave, that will help a lot of drivers!
Good stuff Dave! This sort of thing is what the sim-racing community needs. Sharing this kind of info makes for better racing for everyone! Not everyone can afford to pay for racing lessons and such, it's hard enough to afford the gear and iRacing subscription! Cheers Dave! 🍻
The things that make this car a challenge to drive well are exactly the things I love about the car at the same time! When one can get it right and put together, it feels amazing!!!
4:21 - brake bias is still 42.1% when you thought you were doing 44% brake bias. But the later 44.3% demonstrates the effect well.
Ah, the active reset changed it back. Thankfully I did it again 😁
Wow! I have raced real Porsche 911 GT3 cup cars for the past 3 years with ABS and I have been unable to drive the non-ABS 992 cup car in iracing. After this impressively clear video, I can now drive the 992 in anger and get the rewarding experience that I get in the real car. THANK YOU!!!! I am massively grateful. 🙏
Happy to help 😁
Did my first porsche cup race this morning doing this and finished top 5 in the car, never thought I'd ever get a grip on this car. YOU THA MAN DAVE!!
Thank you. I can't stop this car to save my life
Great video! Very well done!
There are indeed some slight differences in the phases of brake release on the real car compared to iRacing, but you did an amzing job explaining how that works.
Awesome Video, I love that you showed what happens when not set properly. I struggled with this car, this video will help me understand the car more. Thank you!
0:35 Here here! 🍻
The iRacing tyre model at times feels like me trying to judge how long to microwave hard butter for a sandwich, only to realise I hadn't selected defrost mode.
It's a good analogy, honestly. With the Porche cup car being a wet piece of bread with frozen butter.
Well timed video Dave. I was literally looking for a braking tutorial on the 992 cup this morning after having issues at Zolder! Watched an old one of yours at the skid pan track which helped alot along with this. Thanks!
I just started the Porsche Cup cars this week and the other night racing Spa in the rain was a good crash course, excuse the pun.
informative video, not much ads, great quality content. well done!
gonna try this tomorrow instead of doing work at home 😂
Omg I can’t wait to watch this. I got this car a long time ago and had trouble with it. Instead of putting in time to figure it out I said I get back to it later. Maybe now finally the chance to understand this car
So, What I'm taking away from this more than anything is that no matter what I try, my braking is not going to meaningfully improve until I get a load cell brake pedal. I'm not going to be able to apply braking effectively until I do.
Moza sells a 2 pedal load cell set for under $200!
I use SRP-Lite pedals and manage braking the car fine
@@projectbuns Yeah, I'm using the CAMMUS pedals that came with my C5. They pretty much are nothing more than on-off switches
@@roberthadfield2839 oh boy. Gotcha. That would definitely make braking the car tough, hah
@@roberthadfield2839 Hahahahah the base spring load is nice but they're nothing like loadcells. I'm using the CP5 pedals too and looking for some upgrades. 3DRaps has some braking mods to add some loads to the pedals. I don't feel like going LC as it does means I need a proper rig.
Excellent vid dave!! Explained lovley :)
@davecamyt I love your races, I watch almost all of them, but your wisdom/knowledge is invaluable and appreciate these so much more as a sub-2k driver. In my 40’s, still working, not a ton of time to practice, and it’s so helpful to get these lessons. Thank you so much!
I am a good GT3 driver but the Porsche Cup Car makes me driving Like an Amateur and i love it !
This is the Perfect challenge !
Great content Dave mate, really enjoying the channel
Thank you buddy 😁
Theory is essential, but these practical examples are also really easy to comprehend.
I think as an add it would be great to discuss how hard your pedal is to push. Originally I had it set to where it was way to loose and any nervous push would make them 100% instantly. that makes it hard to take corners consistently. Once I put some really hard springs on it, I could barely push it. That’s when I knew I had it. When you race or I should say when I race I get really nervous in corners because there are so many other cars around me. Before when it was loose I would get nervous and over compensate. Now with extremely hard pedals I have to work at it to take an apex. I noticed most of the time you want to be at 75% not 100% nervous Nelly would always push at 100%. This was revolutional for me. My pedals are cheap ones from china, they work great once you modify the heck out of them. Let’s be honest for some of us racing isn’t the only reason to be involved in this thing, we like to build or modify stuff as well. There’s whole generations of shade tree mechanics that I hope doesn’t disappear. So this is what a gen x person does, when they are not working… yep!
ties in really well with the tutorial you made on getting the PCup turning with the brakes
Unfortunately there is only one thing You can do... PRACTICE. Even if I was driving LMU without ABS, the Porsche Cup in iRacing is very difficult, its soooo easy to lock up, my god. But after 15-20 laps You can get it working, but the laptime wont be great yet :D
Can someone please explain the diff lock that is mentioned at 1:54. It doesn't make sense to me! I thought that the potential lock up after downshifting is caused by the engine slowing down the tires a lot when in high RPM and when you don't ease off the pressure from the brakes it can in combination with engine be too much braking at once so the tires lock up. When there is no load on transmission (engine braking) it should slow down the tires less and not more.
That's a different kind of diff locking. One caused by not rev matching when downshifting. the wheels are turning faster than the transmission/engine can output 👍
Thanks Dave! This is the biggest issue I've had with this car!
Also second point - load cell is MUST HAVE
Great video and thanks for sharing Dave.
Another car that requires careful braking is the V8 Supercar and when you get it right very satisfying as well.
Thanks Dave for those great tips. I just completed a race without locking up and no incident points. I'd be curious to hear your opinion about the RFactor2 version. Im glad I now can use another car in iracing thanks to you, but I still think iracing needs to sort out their tyres. Their overheating issues are more pronounced in low down force cars and 992 cup in iracing feels like a simple rework of the gt3 with less aero. In Rf2, directional control via trail braking is paramount but also weight control to manage traction. Very fun.
I prefer to be as far back as I can on the bb with the Pcup. Reason being is it gets the rear rotated, yaw into the corner. Christian the engineer at iracing said he adjusted the initial brake input in this latest build, haven’t tried it yet. I prefer the Pcup in rf2 just a little too much slip angle (typical rf2)The challenge with this pcup is when you’re in a race, to be exact on braking is almost impossible. And as you say it’s very sensitive on steering input. Daniel Morad had said in the past, “worst car in iracing” Last update he said it’s better but still wrong on long fast corners.
Great info Dave.
This is also applicable to a degree to other cars too.
One thing I have learned is adjusting my braking point dependant on the speed of the car, so if I'm puhing a bit harder than normal I brake a litle earlier rather than trying to stop the car in the same distance.
yeah that works with no ABS cars but real world race cars with proper ABS you actually need to stomp on the brakes.
very well explained and demonstrated! i actually dont drive the porsche cup, but i feel like it's something i'd like to give it a try soon
Spot on. I race the 991.2 GT3 Cup.
Perfect explanation Dave! Well done💜
10:21 Brake like Kimi. It's all good, Dave...all good. Toto forgives you.
Love these tips videos Dave. Keep em coming!👍
A great video. Looks like the making of a tutorial for new sim racers. If you did 10-15 chapters, I'd pay $100.00 + USD for that. Just a thought. Thanks Dave.
Wow, it's the video I've been looking for. Thank you so much. Hugs from Brazil
When you said grab a cup of tea I thought I’d tuned in to GM. I enjoy the P cup for the challenge. Really great video, particularly the points on BB - picked up some useful tips!
More of this please!!!! Love the tip talks!
Thanks for this video. Very clear and useful information! Red text on a black background is very hard to read, though, so I'm glad you kept telling what brake bias you were using ;-).
Yes I'll change that. I've been meaning to for a while 😁
I was wondering why I'm so bad at this car! Turns out it's because the things you're not supposed to do when braking is exactly how I brake. Figures.
Great video Dave! Thanks! So just for the dummies out there (me!): are you supposed to put the brake bias more to the front or to the rear as your fuel gets lower?
To the rear 😁
@@davecamyt Thank you! 😃
Awesome explanation, Dave, as always mate. 👏
Greatly informative video Dave! Thanks!
Very well explained. Thanks Dave
Good day Dave! Thanks for another great video!
Finally some good tips and techniques for iracing. Hard to find anything worth watching
Hi Dave, I just bought the 992 and hate it for everything you showed. I spin it and I lockup the front wheels often. Smooth is just not in my wheel house but I'm trying. I understood everything you demonstrated. I was using only a fixed set up on test drives at Sebring. How do use or set up that short track like you did on Iracing ? I would like to be able to to do a little testing.
How much is the SimuCUBE Active Brake Pedal helping in this braking demonstration? I have HE Ultimates+ pedals that have a lack of motor vibration feedback, though I am looking into transducers. I'm a heavy initial input left foot braker and make locking up non ABS cars difficult to avoid. My right foot is my dominant foot, so I don't have precise/control modulation in my left foot as I do with my right. Wonder why sim hardware haven't had any interest in manufacturing a Brake Bias Adjuster. Michael Schumacher used one in the F1 Ferraris and Mercs during laps all the time.
@thenic123 Didn’t understood what you meant by: brake bias adjuster in sims ? Because you can adjust brake bias in sim like Dave does…..
I also have HE Ultimates + and lock the tires easily for non ABS cars but I put all soft elastomers and put brakeforce to 90 KG (for me personally and my steady simrig) and after long straight I can brake hard without locking up because I can slam the brakes and it will be around 80% and then if I slam just harder it can go up to 100% brake input so noo software limitations used (because find it unrealistic and kinda cheating). Because I tried 70 Kg brakeforce and with my leg power I can hit too easily 100% which is insta lockups. (I’m 1m92 and 100 Kg so legpower is there 😅) that’s why 90Kg works best for me. Actually 100-110 Kg also works only when the brakepedal is freshly new lubricated with Dry lube PTFE , then it’s butter smooth and easy to go 100+ Kg brakeforce, but when using day in day for many hours it gets dryer and dryer and then pressing becomes harder therfor 90 Kg works best for 50-100 Hours of intensive use… then back Lubricating time.
As for Simucube Active Pedals: as long as I’ve seen and heard and read about it, it doesn’t vibrate for lockups, only ABS. But it can change with software etc in future don’t know. (I do not own the Simucube pedals sadly and never tested it.)
Hope I was clear with this book of a reply 😅
Thanks for this Dave. Great video.
Another great Video, This applies as well to the NASCAR Gen7 car, I have found the Brake MC Sizing is as important as the Brake bias and of course changes the bias as well I have a couple videos trying to explain the Gen 7 but do not have the Subs you do
Thank you for this. I am getting better at this. So in a car that TC and ABS I should be using that?
The more you can keep your car out of abs/tc the better 👍
@@davecamyt So no brakes at all? Cool, got it. 🤘
The best way to learn braking is using the G-Meter. How does it work:
We need to accept, that a tire can only deliver a maximum amount of grip, before loosing traction.
We need to learn, at which amount of G-Force the tire looses traction / maximum G-Load
Lets say this is 1G. So at any given poin of turning, braking or accelerating u cannot u cannot put more Gs onto the tire or u loose traktion.
When u look at a circular G-Meter u got the circles for G-Forces. In a perfect world u would stay at any time on the 1G circle to extract maximum grip out of ur tires.
U can get 1G under braking or 1G under turning, but as soon as u brake and turn, u have to lower braking or turning less to keep the total amound of G-Forces at 1G.
So if u turn 0.5G u can only brake 0.5G as both add up to 1G in total. Just look at the 1G circle on ur G-Meter.
When u look at the G-Meter of very good drivers, the indicator stays almost perfect on the circle.
well done Dave very informative e.
7:13 DON’T SHOOT ME MATE, You can overtake me safely ! 😂
Driving that car is like wrestling a bear after 10 pints. I still love it though!
Great explanation of this !!
Go full speed and then hit the wall head on it means you can use full throttle for longer.
Brilliant vid 👍🏻
Thanks for this! I kind of thought this was how it worked (not just Porsche Cup) but it is could to have it explained this way. 👍 Now, If I could just be that consistent...
thanks Dave!
Great video, as always Dave 👍. I brake in exactly the same way as yourself, but I've noticed on some of the on-boards with very high level drivers, their initial application is more progressive on initial application rather than straight to 80/90% as quickly as possible and bleeding off. Any idea why this might be?
It depends on the turn and how much does I need to get off. Braking that hard as I did is quite specific to the likes of Monza T1 👍
Very helpful video this os my favorite car. It took a while to get it eight and theree always more to learn. This car seems to extraxt more speed when using all the kerbs as it grabs traction at that point.
I needed this video so bad 😂😂
So helpful, off to practice 👍
Get the simagic haptic motor. Its almost like cheating. Let off the brake when it vibrates indicating lock or ebs.
Can Dave or someone PLEASE HELP me, I'm using transducer for braking so in sim hub i see microlock ups it vibrates my pedal but on replay or the dashboard i do not see the lights pop up as a suggestion that am locking. So I wonder what to trust is it actually locking up or is it sim hub is bit more dramatic than it should be ? Please help guys please :) Thanks a lot :) my best so far at moza was only 50:1 which isn't great for top split :( so please help thank you :)
PS: My theory is that it's micro locking the tyres which isn't being shown on dash board but it creates temperature which snatches away the grip and makes me lose time. My telemetry is almost same with some of the fastest guys so i shouldn't be almost 2 sec behind them :( I believe it to be locking up but I'm not sure. If it's true I will adjust my braking technique. With Lmp2 and other cars am faster but porsche cup NEVER :( HELP
You mentioned that the fronts are less likely to lock up when there’s more fuel - wouldn’t this be the opposite because of the added load ?
No, it's all about weight over the front 👍
It’s a good car just wish it had abs on it
inspired by this morning watching GM and his rants 😆
It was already in the works 😁
@@davecamyt a very needed informative video - im already inconsistent driver as it is, and this car just highlights my negatives even more!
beginner here
isn't releasing the brake and starting to turn in the same as "trailbreaking"?
That's exactly what it is. A common mistake is that people don't do both at the same time. 👍
Thank you
Cheers Dave
Good stuff!
In your next video please explain how I can put my feet up ‘and’ grab a cup of tea please 😂
GREAT tutorial
So reduce front brake bias every 10L?
Yes about that 👍
Thanks for this video Dave! I just started driving this and the braking has been a struggle to understand, but I’m finally getting there. After watching this I feel I’m armed with the right tools to fully understand the braking now! Legend!
Thank u 🎉
The Porsche Cup was the first car I bought, and the worst mistake ever ahahah. Can’t brake on that thing
Great vid!! How can i restart the car in a specific corner? didnt know we could do that
It's the active reset feature. ua-cam.com/video/W2thO9CVevk/v-deo.htmlsi=XuWGmWvdxuNbwMNo
@@davecamyt Thanks Dave!!
idk why but i always set it to -6.00, but i still dont get it. some day
How am I gonna grab a cup of tea if I just put my feet up?
0:15 they said it before the rework. Now it should feel closer to the real thing.
Moard still says it doesn’t.
@@Alewiska rip. It's easier though and you can feel the back getting more grip as you go on the throttle.
Good info.. when you first said you were going to demonstrate 44.1%... you never set it... you were at 42.1%.. and then just went to 45%....
I went back after though to 44.3 😁
@@davecamyt This was what I came here to say and I'm glad another sharp viewer caught it. You did go back though.
Lovely!
Just the video I needed lol
Please tell aa well, how to brake while turning...😢😊
Bro I lock up at 42.1% even if I press 65/70% the brake, this car is so bad 😂❤
Also remember you do not need to downshift until you are off the brake. This makes for a more consistent braking profile, especially when turning as the front wheels are now also using their grip for turning, too.
You're wasting all that engine braking if you don't downshift 👍