Great tips Colin, as usual. I'm in the UK and a few years ago I bought an Axminster UJK Pocket Hole Jig Kit, in addition I got their Alignment Clamp which holds the two pieces of wood in perfect symmetry for screwing. I have used this jig and clamp on many of my projects, and subsequently bought their single hole jig to add to my kit. As a 69 year-old lady I find pocket holes help me to continue with the hobby I love, as do many of your tips and tricks. Keep them coming please.
I could not have found this at a better time. I have built things on an off using pocket hole joinery and I have fallen victim to not clamping every time. The project I am currently working on is a bookcase, where clean lines is a must! I am totally building that clamping jig! Great info!!!
Whenever I see that you have a video I watch it. You are a great instructor/teacher. I am wanting to learn about woodworking so having the privilege of watching and learning from your videos is a blessing. I am planning on making bi-fold closet doors with my husband and the instructions call for pocket holes. I have saved this video to a playlist. Thank you so much for making this video.
With the Kreg jig, paint over the calibration marks with liquid paper/white out, then wipe over the surface with mineral turps/paint thinners. This leaves clear, very legible white marks.It's quick and easy, I did mine years ago, and it's still good. Further, I don't fasten my jig down, I just sit it on the bench, and even long pieces are OK - the pockets don't need to be perpendicular to the edge, and for hidden pocket holes the spacings are approximate only. Laziness is wonderful if done properly.
Colin, I set up a similar situation with my pocket hole jig. I found that the base of the jig is 1 inch thick. I attached the jig to a piece of 3/4" plywood like yours and for the extensions I used a piece of scrap 5/4 board (stair tread which is 1 inch) cut into 2 lengths about 12 inches long. Then I attached a piece of plywood under each extension, and screwed the extension to the base. Works like a charm. As for your 90° clamping jig, that would be great for face frames for cabinets or maybe even picture frames. Thanks for sharing!
I use my pocket hole jig all the time, but I use corner clamps to hold my pieces together before screwing them together. It works the best! Especially, on cabinet faces and cabinet boxed.
The pocket hole clamping jig you displayed in your video with to smaller clamps was helpful. As I found the spring loaded clamp that came with my Kreg system is not very practical. For all applications when joining the timber together especially when the timber is different thicknesses. Thanks again for your tip regarding successful clamping of pocket hope joinery. Martin.
Another thing I learned through trial and error is that if you're using an impact driver, start it on the lower setting and when the screw bites in, flip it to the higher setting. It really made a difference when assembling a melamine box
Great tips Colin. If you want to know what is and how to make "pocket hole super joints, toe nailing pocket hole joints, or cross dowel pocket hole joints" are, I have a play list ("pocket hole joinery") of all that and more on my channel. these joints make pocket hole joinery much stronger. Keep up the great shop tip videos. I'm a big (and long time) fan of your channel.
when i bought my k 4 jig i too bought several of those clamps. you are so correct about them being somewhat useless. every now and then ill use them for some different use but they were not cheap and a waste of money.
Thanks for sharing. I think you will find that 3/4" ply is in fact 19mm. With most of the world now using the metric system, it makes sense that ply is sized for the metric system.
I really like your videos Colin. They are very informative. What I do when I use 3/4 inch plywood in my Kreg jig is adjust the collar on the drill bit instead of the preset 5/8 since you might lose strength in the depth of the screw.
I'm just watching your videos now and you have some great tips! Thank you! Wanted to comment to say that the clamp you have at 5:20 can be used for clamping the jig to the end of a workbench if there is not a large lip or overhang.There is a little semi-circle on the front of the jig, and the clamp fits in there.
Colin, I've been watching several of your videos & you offer GREAT information! Thank you very much! You make it easy to get back into woodworking. You have a new subscriber!
Great vid! My Kreg K5 has been sitting there. Opened, but never used. After seeing this vid you put out? I am going to build my Tormek T8 stand out of 2/4's with the jig. Thanks very much!
Another tip - before trying to put the boards together, run the screw into the pocket hole so it pops out any remaining wood at the bottom of the pocket hole, then clean it up. This stops any tendency to 'bridge' caused by the waste getting in the gap and also helps the screw get a clean entry into the cross piece.
The flat panel jig with toggle clamps can be improved by having a 4" (100mm) gap in the corner. Then you can also use it to make 'T' joints as well as 'L' joints without changing anything around. I've been using one made that way for several years, the base panel is made from melamine covered chipboard so I can use it for glued joints and any glue squeeze out just pops off when its dried.
Could you please specify where the 4" gap goes in the corner I'm having difficulty visualizing the gap? I plan on making the jig and improvement sounds great.
The flat jig almost looks like the one toggle clamp will not allow for the drill bit to access the two drilled holes. You did not show it in operation but it looked like the clamp just gets in the way.
Thanks for the tips! I have had trouble with using pocket holes to clamp boards together on the short sides to make a bench top. I was using an impact driver and it would snug up just a little too much and introduced some cup to my bench top. I've learnt from that but it was an annoying thing to learn after the glue had gone off
Colin that Kreg clamp is basically most useful when using the one or two hole jigs. It’s purpose is to hold the small jigs in place. The two hole jig in fact has a mounting pad for this clamp. Check out Kreg’s instructions.
@woodworkweb Thank you Colin... I’ve heretofore not ever used pocket holes for anything because I have always made everything with joinery and glue. I guess maybe I was of the idea that, I don’t really need to do it and there’s skill building in even building shop projects and jigs with the same Dado/Rabbet/Mortise/Tenon/Box/Dovetails that I use in finished projects/gifts/nicer shop projects like tool chests/tool wall cabinets. BUT: I’ve done enough of that now with jigs/shop gear and I really think I’d like to reclaim that time by turning out jigs/gear faster. Also thinking that maybe by using pocket hole joinery on jigs, that I can modify/refit them easier which saves on material and time both. I’ll still not be building furniture with them, but I just ordered the KMS5 System and I think your videos on pocket hole joinery were what pushed me to pull the trigger. You don’t shame or talk condescendingly of purists or those of use who have a blend of machine/hand tool shops. I’m probably 85-15% handtool to machine; only really using machines where they save time that can be better spent cutting/designing joinery. So jointer/planer are the machines that use up 12 of that 15%. Thanks a bunch brother and Semper Fidelis, Shannon
Not being a joinery guy, I often wonder why we need the pocket hole screws in the first pace if you are going to take them out anyway..why not just clamp it properly and let it dry? Is this just a step so you don't have to wait for glue? Thanks for the video - as always, great!
Do you have a video that illustrates how you built the assembly jig? Though it looks straightforward to build, but I'm curious on the way you elevated the wood so the sawdust would not gather on the edges. Thanks in advance.
I made a wooden pice for the vice to which my pocket hole jig is screwed. I attached rare earth magnets into the wood and these hold my pocket hole drill bit and screw bit so they are always handy.
I always wondered why my floor would not come out even. I have MDF flooring and when I had a small section go bad I just thought to replace it with plywood. Well they never seemed to be exact same size so I did the whole bathroom and tore out all the mdf. Now I know why they never matched lol
I have a bad problem. I am new to all this and thought I was being so precise. I drilled through the bottom of the jig! Now what do I do? Should I fill with epoxy or something? I don't know what I did wrong.
Good tips, but you seem to be stuck on the clamp only being used "in the air" so to speak, which is problematic. I have used these clamps quite successfuly though, as long as you're clamping the joints down on the edge of your work bench, or any flat surface. Kreg makes a variety of clamps of different sizes and configurations (although, somewhat pricey), for several applications, maybe you could do a future video on those.
One thing I would add is to routinely check that the Kreg jig is holding it's height setting. Mine tends to slip often....and if you aren't paying attention than you will end up making the holes to deep and your screws will stick out the other side of the mating pieces when you go to put them together. So as you are making the pocket holes, make sure you constantly make sure the height adjustment is not slipping to a lower setting. Might save you ruining some wood.
Im new to pocket hole joinery. I've never heard of reusing screws? Even the good ones. I would think you run the risk of head damage, either break or rounding the head?? What's your thoughts
I certainly never re-use the Bluekote ones. Some of the coating comes off as you drive the screw and I reckon if you were to use them again, good luck with corrosion resistance.
I use threaded inserts in my work bench near the center, but on the edge. I drilled the holes out in the unit to clearance for 1/4-20's and placed the inserts into the work bench so all I have to do is run the screws into the inserts and I'm ready to go. I use a couple of pc's of wood on either side of the jig that are the same height as the jig for support of long pc's. I drill a lot of pocket holes and this system seams to work great.
It's possible, depending on how they're placed. The closer to the pockets, the more out of the way it'll be, and as a side benefit it will hold better close to the joint. Of course, too close, and you may need a pocket screw right where the toggle hits. However, I wouldn't trust those toggles to hold with a lot of downward force. They're great for clamping lateral (sideways) movement, but the pure force one of those screws can impart going in is amazing - he wasn't exaggerating when he said you can't hold it by hand. Especially as far away as he has them, it looks like the screw could still lift the board. Imagine them in hard maple or white oak instead of pine.
G'day Collin. I wanted to ask you about when you have a board clamped to another board in a T and screwing it down. Like the one where you were describing the glue being stronger than the screws. I was trying to do this on melamine, very slippery stuff I know, to make a mold and I was clamping the pieces down and was finding the boards were trying to wander around when the screws were put in. Any advice on how to combat this? I tried clamping down plastic squares as well clamping the boards but at the end of the day I was still clamping one piece of melamine to another in a tee fashion and the bloody stuff tries to slide everywhere with the coefficient of friction melamine has. Any advice will be greatfully received as I will have to make many of these molds over time.
Whenever you need something built fast and able to be disassembled: use pocket holes. Whenever you need more precision, strength and beauty: use joints and glue. Is that a good way of thinking as a woodworker?
Yeah that’s a smart jig. Only thing I would adjust is the distance of the clamp where you’re going to drive the screws through the pocket holes. If you look closely at 7:25 you’ll see what I mean the clamp is to close to the pocket holes. But again it’s a smart idea thanks for the tip.
Thanks, I enjoy your videos. I haven't checked it out myself yet but I saw the other day that a 2x4 is the same level as the platform on a Kreg jig, that would give level support.
What jig is this? It looks like a K4 but that clamp is in the rear with a handle. Like the K5 I have but the K5 breaks all the time and I'm on my third in 6 months with no other choice that has the clamp on the same side as the drilling.
Great tips Colin, as usual. I'm in the UK and a few years ago I bought an Axminster UJK Pocket Hole Jig Kit, in addition I got their Alignment Clamp which holds the two pieces of wood in perfect symmetry for screwing. I have used this jig and clamp on many of my projects, and subsequently bought their single hole jig to add to my kit. As a 69 year-old lady I find pocket holes help me to continue with the hobby I love, as do many of your tips and tricks. Keep them coming please.
Thanks for watching!
I could not have found this at a better time. I have built things on an off using pocket hole joinery and I have fallen victim to not clamping every time. The project I am currently working on is a bookcase, where clean lines is a must! I am totally building that clamping jig! Great info!!!
Useful video. I'd never have thought of using pocket holes to temporarily clamp wood for glueing. Thank you.
Whenever I see that you have a video I watch it. You are a great instructor/teacher. I am wanting to learn about woodworking so having the privilege of watching and learning from your videos is a blessing. I am planning on making bi-fold closet doors with my husband and the instructions call for pocket holes. I have saved this video to a playlist. Thank you so much for making this video.
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
With the Kreg jig, paint over the calibration marks with liquid paper/white out, then wipe over the surface with mineral turps/paint thinners. This leaves clear, very legible white marks.It's quick and easy, I did mine years ago, and it's still good. Further, I don't fasten my jig down, I just sit it on the bench, and even long pieces are OK - the pockets don't need to be perpendicular to the edge, and for hidden pocket holes the spacings are approximate only. Laziness is wonderful if done properly.
thanks collin good video i watch all your videos
Colin, I set up a similar situation with my pocket hole jig. I found that the base of the jig is 1 inch thick. I attached the jig to a piece of 3/4" plywood like yours and for the extensions I used a piece of scrap 5/4 board (stair tread which is 1 inch) cut into 2 lengths about 12 inches long. Then I attached a piece of plywood under each extension, and screwed the extension to the base. Works like a charm. As for your 90° clamping jig, that would be great for face frames for cabinets or maybe even picture frames. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Thanks again Colin - your woodworking tips are invaluable and delivered fast and sharp.
You're welcome, Benny! Thanks for watching.
I use my pocket hole jig all the time, but I use corner clamps to hold my pieces together before screwing them together. It works the best! Especially, on cabinet faces and cabinet boxed.
Like the jig with the toggle clamps, I'll have to build one. I wish I had that jig when I assembled all my face frames.
The pocket hole clamping jig you displayed in your video with to smaller clamps was helpful. As I found the spring loaded clamp that came with my Kreg system is not very practical. For all applications when joining the timber together especially when the timber is different thicknesses. Thanks again for your tip regarding successful clamping of pocket hope joinery.
Martin.
I've always thought of pocket hole screws as holding it untill the glue dries. I never thought to remove them to use again! Thanks for the tip.
Fabulous explanations....it’s all in the details. Cheers
Another thing I learned through trial and error is that if you're using an impact driver, start it on the lower setting and when the screw bites in, flip it to the higher setting. It really made a difference when assembling a melamine box
Great tips Colin. If you want to know what is and how to make "pocket hole super joints, toe nailing pocket hole joints, or cross dowel pocket hole joints" are, I have a play list ("pocket hole joinery") of all that and more on my channel. these joints make pocket hole joinery much stronger. Keep up the great shop tip videos. I'm a big (and long time) fan of your channel.
Thank you for the video, very informative. Keep them coming. Thanks for sharing!!
when i bought my k 4 jig i too bought several of those clamps. you are so correct about them being somewhat useless. every now and then ill use them for some different use but they were not cheap and a waste of money.
Very useful tips.... Thanks for sharing.....
Very useful tips. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing. I think you will find that 3/4" ply is in fact 19mm. With most of the world now using the metric system, it makes sense that ply is sized for the metric system.
Yes its time for usa to move on to metric and leave the old days
I have rearranged my schedule for today so I can go make an assembly jig. This would have helped in many previous projects.
Thanks for this one.
DONE! Can't wait for my next pocket hole project.😋
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
Thank you Colin! Was not aware that the glue is the the main deal not the screws, thank you!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Your clamping Jig is wonderful! Thanks!
Pocket screws are the woodworking Gods gift to woodworkers.
Good video ! Lots of good tips.
Colin - thanks for sharing good tips
Pocket hole joinery is indispensable!
Thank you for this video. The wing nut on the clamping arm was a good idea. I enjoy and learn from your videos.
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
I really like your videos Colin. They are very informative. What I do when I use 3/4 inch plywood in my Kreg jig is adjust the collar on the drill bit instead of the preset 5/8 since you might lose strength in the depth of the screw.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
With my R3 jig, you are supposed to adjust both the jig AND the bit. At least that’s the way the instructions in the kit tell you to do it.
Awesome tips! Thank you!
I'm just watching your videos now and you have some great tips! Thank you! Wanted to comment to say that the clamp you have at 5:20 can be used for clamping the jig to the end of a workbench if there is not a large lip or overhang.There is a little semi-circle on the front of the jig, and the clamp fits in there.
Colin, I've been watching several of your videos & you offer GREAT information! Thank you very much! You make it easy to get back into woodworking. You have a new subscriber!
Colin, what is the reason for using pocket holes for two pieces that could be glued? Thanks for your video, always fun and useful!
You are the man 👍🏼
Great vid! My Kreg K5 has been sitting there. Opened, but never used. After seeing this vid you put out? I am going to build my Tormek T8 stand out of 2/4's with the jig. Thanks very much!
I`ve been using pockets for 5 or 6 years still these tips help me, keep em coming
Thanks for watching!
This video i s full of great tips. The jig you made on 7:00 is very interesting! Thank you so much for this great video
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Some good tips there Colin thanks. Those pocket hole jigs are expensive but amazing tools for joinery
Thanks for watching!
Great,
Greetings from Germany
Kerim
Another tip - before trying to put the boards together, run the screw into the pocket hole so it pops out any remaining wood at the bottom of the pocket hole, then clean it up. This stops any tendency to 'bridge' caused by the waste getting in the gap and also helps the screw get a clean entry into the cross piece.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Thank you Colin, appreciated all these tips.
The flat panel jig with toggle clamps can be improved by having a 4" (100mm) gap in the corner. Then you can also use it to make 'T' joints as well as 'L' joints without changing anything around. I've been using one made that way for several years, the base panel is made from melamine covered chipboard so I can use it for glued joints and any glue squeeze out just pops off when its dried.
Bruce Lee Thanks for this tip. I made one this afternoon and included your modification.
Could you please specify where the 4" gap goes in the corner I'm having difficulty visualizing the gap? I plan on making the jig and improvement sounds great.
That's a GREAT tip. Thanks for sharing.
The flat jig almost looks like the one toggle clamp will not allow for the drill bit to access the two drilled holes. You did not show it in operation but it looked like the clamp just gets in the way.
Love this tip: Take out the pocket hole screws and re-use them, they're not serving any purpose anyway once the joint is glued. Cheers!
pocket hole jig is a great idea. i love the gap for the dust.
Thanks for the tips! I have had trouble with using pocket holes to clamp boards together on the short sides to make a bench top. I was using an impact driver and it would snug up just a little too much and introduced some cup to my bench top. I've learnt from that but it was an annoying thing to learn after the glue had gone off
Quit using my driver on pocket holes, not enough control. Now I use my drill to drive.
Colin that Kreg clamp is basically most useful when using the one or two hole jigs. It’s purpose is to hold the small jigs in place. The two hole jig in fact has a mounting pad for this clamp. Check out Kreg’s instructions.
Will make your clamping board jig , thank you.
@woodworkweb Thank you Colin... I’ve heretofore not ever used pocket holes for anything because I have always made everything with joinery and glue. I guess maybe I was of the idea that, I don’t really need to do it and there’s skill building in even building shop projects and jigs with the same Dado/Rabbet/Mortise/Tenon/Box/Dovetails that I use in finished projects/gifts/nicer shop projects like tool chests/tool wall cabinets. BUT: I’ve done enough of that now with jigs/shop gear and I really think I’d like to reclaim that time by turning out jigs/gear faster. Also thinking that maybe by using pocket hole joinery on jigs, that I can modify/refit them easier which saves on material and time both. I’ll still not be building furniture with them, but I just ordered the KMS5 System and I think your videos on pocket hole joinery were what pushed me to pull the trigger. You don’t shame or talk condescendingly of purists or those of use who have a blend of machine/hand tool shops. I’m probably 85-15% handtool to machine; only really using machines where they save time that can be better spent cutting/designing joinery. So jointer/planer are the machines that use up 12 of that 15%. Thanks a bunch brother and Semper Fidelis, Shannon
Great Tips again Colin. Very much apreciated. Thank You. All the best from North London U.K.
You're welcome, Trev! Thanks for watching.
Great tips, thank you.
I have subscribed, i find your video’s very informative. Thank you sir. 👍🏼👏🏼👏🏼🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
That’s a great video with lots of great tips
Just starting to do this and your video helps me refresh important steps
Not being a joinery guy, I often wonder why we need the pocket hole screws in the first pace if you are going to take them out anyway..why not just clamp it properly and let it dry? Is this just a step so you don't have to wait for glue? Thanks for the video - as always, great!
I never used the clamp the way you do, I always use the clamp to clamp the work pieces onto a bench etc..
Anyway, great video as usual.
And that is your two cents
I have never met this man but I like what he does. And watching him do it. Sincerely L H
This is a great video as I enter my wood working gig
Do you have a video that illustrates how you built the assembly jig? Though it looks straightforward to build, but I'm curious on the way you elevated the wood so the sawdust would not gather on the edges. Thanks in advance.
Awesome video. I could watch your videos all day long. 👍👍
Thanks,my english is not well,i'm from chile.But your explanations are so clear.
You're Welcome!
I made a wooden pice for the vice to which my pocket hole jig is screwed. I attached rare earth magnets into the wood and these hold my pocket hole drill bit and screw bit so they are always handy.
Another great tip, thanks for sharing Colin, your a pleasure to listen to
You're Welcome!
Great tips. Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome, Hans! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the tips, just ordered a kregs k4.
Awesome watch by the way!
Great video! I seriously may have to go back and find previous projects to take the screws back out of! Lol
Does anyone NOT glue their joints?
Thanks again for taking time and posting these tutorials.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
As always...get info! I do love my Kreg Jig & these were great tips. Thank you for taking the time to make your videos!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
I always wondered why my floor would not come out even. I have MDF flooring and when I had a small section go bad I just thought to replace it with plywood. Well they never seemed to be exact same size so I did the whole bathroom and tore out all the mdf. Now I know why they never matched lol
Awesome tips..
Lightly hammer a golf tee into the "mistake" screw hole, break off and sand flush. It's as good as new.
Awesome better quality is the way to go
This is awesome and so helpful!
I have a bad problem. I am new to all this and thought I was being so precise. I drilled through the bottom of the jig! Now what do I do? Should I fill with epoxy or something? I don't know what I did wrong.
Great tips Colin, thank you from Tennessee.
You're Welcome!
Great set of tips Colin, thank you.
Very useful tips, thanks for sharing.
Good tips, but you seem to be stuck on the clamp only being used "in the air" so to speak, which is problematic. I have used these clamps quite successfuly though, as long as you're clamping the joints down on the edge of your work bench, or any flat surface. Kreg makes a variety of clamps of different sizes and configurations (although, somewhat pricey), for several applications, maybe you could do a future video on those.
One thing I would add is to routinely check that the Kreg jig is holding it's height setting. Mine tends to slip often....and if you aren't paying attention than you will end up making the holes to deep and your screws will stick out the other side of the mating pieces when you go to put them together. So as you are making the pocket holes, make sure you constantly make sure the height adjustment is not slipping to a lower setting. Might save you ruining some wood.
Some Good Tips I will use for sure !
Thx’s for Sharing
Im new to pocket hole joinery.
I've never heard of reusing screws?
Even the good ones.
I would think you run the risk of head damage, either break or rounding the head??
What's your thoughts
I certainly never re-use the Bluekote ones. Some of the coating comes off as you drive the screw and I reckon if you were to use them again, good luck with corrosion resistance.
A way I have found a good way to fill OOPS holes. I use wood skewer sticks like you would use on your BBQ work great
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
I believe the Kreg pocket hole jig settings account for the smaller dimension width of the lumber
I use threaded inserts in my work bench near the center, but on the edge. I drilled the holes out in the unit to clearance for 1/4-20's and placed the inserts into the work bench so all I have to do is run the screws into the inserts and I'm ready to go. I use a couple of pc's of wood on either side of the jig that are the same height as the jig for support of long pc's. I drill a lot of pocket holes and this system seams to work great.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
The toggle clamps is a great idea! But doesn’t it impede on the ability to drive the screws?
It's possible, depending on how they're placed. The closer to the pockets, the more out of the way it'll be, and as a side benefit it will hold better close to the joint. Of course, too close, and you may need a pocket screw right where the toggle hits. However, I wouldn't trust those toggles to hold with a lot of downward force. They're great for clamping lateral (sideways) movement, but the pure force one of those screws can impart going in is amazing - he wasn't exaggerating when he said you can't hold it by hand. Especially as far away as he has them, it looks like the screw could still lift the board. Imagine them in hard maple or white oak instead of pine.
It's best when you build your workbench to have 4 inch overlap around your countertop your clamps will love you
Thank you sir!
@
WoodWorkWeb Thank you for this video !
For a general tip. Porter cable mskes a self adjusting pocket hole system. very good and close to same price as Kreg.
Great Tips again Colin !!! I watch every one you do and really enjoy them :) Keep up the GREAT WORK. !
Thank You!
G'day Collin. I wanted to ask you about when you have a board clamped to another board in a T and screwing it down. Like the one where you were describing the glue being stronger than the screws. I was trying to do this on melamine, very slippery stuff I know, to make a mold and I was clamping the pieces down and was finding the boards were trying to wander around when the screws were put in. Any advice on how to combat this? I tried clamping down plastic squares as well clamping the boards but at the end of the day I was still clamping one piece of melamine to another in a tee fashion and the bloody stuff tries to slide everywhere with the coefficient of friction melamine has. Any advice will be greatfully received as I will have to make many of these molds over time.
How do you know how deep to drill the hole with the pocket hole drill bit to keep it safe
Whenever you need something built fast and able to be disassembled: use pocket holes. Whenever you need more precision, strength and beauty: use joints and glue.
Is that a good way of thinking as a woodworker?
That jig with the toggle clamps is a good idea, mate. 👍
Thank You, Bill!
Yeah that’s a smart jig. Only thing I would adjust is the distance of the clamp where you’re going to drive the screws through the pocket holes. If you look closely at 7:25 you’ll see what I mean the clamp is to close to the pocket holes. But again it’s a smart idea thanks for the tip.
Thanks, I enjoy your videos. I haven't checked it out myself yet but I saw the other day that a 2x4 is the same level as the platform on a Kreg jig, that would give level support.
Great tips and well explained. Cheers 👍🏼😊
Thanks for well informed technics
What jig is this? It looks like a K4 but that clamp is in the rear with a handle. Like the K5 I have but the K5 breaks all the time and I'm on my third in 6 months with no other choice that has the clamp on the same side as the drilling.
Isn't that one clamp on your jig in the way of the pocket screw. I do really enjoy your videos this is just something I noticed
I noticed the same thing.
We love you Colin 👏🏻👏🏻🇬🇧🇬🇧
Thank You!