Streeters Garage... You forgot a very important part in this cleaning process ! I watched this video last year cause I had a Top end bog on my 2009 RMK 700... I cleaned my Valves exactly like you did... Tried my sled and it still fell on it's face... Then went on and changed a couple of expensive parts, bought a fuel pump $300... Nope, it still fell on it's face... Thought my injectors where f*cked, Bought them for $400, Still stumbled... Brought my sled to Polaris $1000 later still the issue wasn't solved... They where clueless on the issue also... So I decided to come back to the Exhaust Valves as a final solution... I sat down and completely disassembled them... Then it hit me. The little holes under the bellows need to be cleaned ! The ports get clogged badly because of oil goo. I used WD-40 and a hair pin to clean them out. I had to scrape and use more WD-40 to clear them from all the goo. After a while. I could then see light passing through them. I could have saved nearly $2000 if the job would have been done right. Now the sled is pulling revs and standing on it's tale ! Info just to let you know bro.
Dooby Boy well said as well I ran small Weld cleaning rod threw it I saw ur video on UA-cam as well 🤘🤘thanks the both of you. I’m from. mn ripping daily and yes the 2 litttle holes go through 2 don’t go somewhere else .!
Would you be able to explain how to remove the bellows if there is an issue? I have mine apart (02 800 Edge) and the outside of the bellow isn’t covered in oil, but has some carbon buildup. I bought the sled 3 years ago and it’s run ok, but I don’t know how last owner was maintaining it so I was going to replace them for good measure. The 02 Polaris shop manual for this sled says: Insert VES valve in a soft jawed vice. Got it. - And carefully remove exhaust valve cap. Ok sounds easy enough. I’ve got it in a vice but the image of their valve doesn’t look like mine or yours. They’re actually not even working on a twin! So I have no idea how to get this off “carefully” as they cautioned. Any insight appreciated. Thanks!
If the bellows were dry and no accumulation of oil on the outside. The bellows are fine. If they were wet, yes replace them. The valve blade is threaded on the shaft. The nut will that holds the washer and bellow will come right off when you have it in a vice.
Dont forget your gas port on the cylinder. While moving the piston to BDC below VES gas port, clean the gas passage. If you look in front of your valve, there are 2 holes. That is the right hole. Clean it but be careful. It goes from 5 mm and then tapers to 2 mm. Locktite and torque to 10. 5 to 13.5 ft-lbs. thanks for your video.
Streeters Garage of course i subscribed your chanel is great. i know lots about fixing sleds (liberty 600s thanks to my iqr in particular) but it always helps to find a vid to expand my understanding or learn a better way of doing things. i appreciate your chanel man i wish i found it sooner!
I do not have the hoses on my exhaust valves, what the difference? My engine is an 04 700 twin in a Polaris Classic. I was getting horrible fuel mileage so I saw that cleaning them can sometimes be the problem. The underside of the bellows were full of oil the left side more than the right. I replaced bellows and gaskets and cleaned the valves and they now move freely
The hoses were a later EPA requirement to allow excess oil to be drained into the bellypan. Most people would just drill a hole in the bellypan and feed the hose through and allow it to drain to the ground.
Excellent video. I have the same year make and model and need to get this done. Thanks for a great video and very informative. Did you happen to notice a better running sled after doing this? Thank you
I was hoping you'd show actual "cleaning of rhe the valves". Did you spray them, let em' soak for a spell, etc. Going from dirty to clean we see but how you made them clean should be shown. THX
just got a 2002 polaris rmk 600 with powervalves they are new to me. how do you know when they are causing problems? do they make a noise or is it just sluggish? right after you snap the throttle and let the rpms come back down to idle it has a little bit of a clacking sound and then goes away.
Jordan Shoemaker The valves only effect higher rpms. You wouldn't notice it if you're just running it on a stand. I would go ahead and pull them clean and inspect anyway.
2002 Ranger. Starts and runs good when cold at first. As engine heats up it starts back firing and will barely run much over idle speed, popping constantly. Sounds like sticking exhaust valve to me. I tried some gas additives and oil additives and went to Polaris extreme duty oil as well. That actually seemed to improve things quite a bit although still there. By continuing to give it gas and get rpm up, it will free up and run good for quite a while, then starts popping again. If a couple tries doesn't free things up I let it sit for 15 minutes or so and usually that will get it going again. I'm not much of a mechanic to attempt disassembly and cleaning as video shows, and not sure if my 2002 is similar enough, but if my symptoms seem right on I will give it a try. Nothing much to lose at this point. Suggestions?
Just bought a 2006 switchback 600. And of course shit is wrong with it that he didn’t tell me. That valve screws into the bellow correct? Threads are gone inside 🤦🏼
There should be a cap that threads on too the exhaust valve. There’s a washer that goes between the bellows and the cap too hold everything together. Should come off with a 10mm socket.
+Joe Neault Typically the RydeFx shocks are non rebuildable. If you look at the top of the shock body where the shaft goes in. You'll either see a threaded cap or a welded cap. If it's welded its non rebuildable. Take a look at my channel I'm currently going through a 01 XC800. You can see an example of the shocks in the rear skid. Thanks for watching and please subscribe!
I went to clean my exhaust valves today and the cut outs are on the exhaust pipe side (bottom) and not the top as you referenced. What exactly would be the issue if you had them upside down so to speak?
My sled runs great brought it in for a trade in and they through me for a loop it had great compression but was "about too blow" and my exhaust valves needed too be clean I'm not loosing power or anything should I? It only has 1300km
They are essentially vents for the waste 2 stroke oil. They are connected to a solenoid which will activate and open up the valve on the solenoid which will allow any accumulation to drain
+doobyboy21 That sucks, Look at it this way. You would have been pulling the cylinder anyway to get the hole drilled and tapped. Not you have a legitimate excuse to go in and go fishing!
starting as in trying to start the sled or just from initial takeoff? I regeared mine from 23/39 to 22/40 and it improves the low end performance a lot.
I opened the hood after riding and noticed oil spray on the exhaust valve ports. The breather hose has a minor crack in it from rubbing on the valve. Do you think this is where the oil is coming from?
It could be. Another way to tell is while the sled is running, look at the holes is the plastic cap and check too see if you have any exhaust/smoke coming from them. If you do, this a sign that bellow is torn. Thanks for watching!
Wrong, wrong, wrong. You said that the bottom that has only a slight bevel on the leading edge, was the top. When the actual top requires a much sharper bevel because it slopes down towards the piston face. So you got it backwards. You failed to give any instructions for removing the oil and carbon from the blade. A 3M circular fiberglass disc for paint removal, that inserts into a drill form Ace Hardware, will remove the carbon with help from a brake cleaner. Wrong, wrong, wrong. You failed to remove the nut above the bellows and inspect for disintegration of the vinyl bellows, because it disintegrates in the clamped area. You also failed to inspect the impact shoulder on the shaft of the blade. It gets flattened when it impacts the cylinder head stops and necessitates replacement. You also failed to inspect the extreme tips of the blade and the piston wall, for impact damage from when the blade shoulders become flattened and did not stop the blade soon enough before the blade impacts the piston wall. You should redue this entire video.
Please edit your video or remove it. Your cleaning process is incomplete and missing checking/cleaning the small ports on the valve and cylinder that let the exhaust gases go through and control the valves with the solenoid. THESE NEED TO BE INSPECTED!!!
Streeters Garage... You forgot a very important part in this cleaning process ! I watched this video last year cause I had a Top end bog on my 2009 RMK 700... I cleaned my Valves exactly like you did... Tried my sled and it still fell on it's face... Then went on and changed a couple of expensive parts, bought a fuel pump $300... Nope, it still fell on it's face... Thought my injectors where f*cked, Bought them for $400, Still stumbled... Brought my sled to Polaris $1000 later still the issue wasn't solved... They where clueless on the issue also... So I decided to come back to the Exhaust Valves as a final solution... I sat down and completely disassembled them... Then it hit me. The little holes under the bellows need to be cleaned ! The ports get clogged badly because of oil goo. I used WD-40 and a hair pin to clean them out. I had to scrape and use more WD-40 to clear them from all the goo. After a while. I could then see light passing through them. I could have saved nearly $2000 if the job would have been done right. Now the sled is pulling revs and standing on it's tale ! Info just to let you know bro.
Glad you were able to figure it out. I'm surprised the Polaris dealer didn't check it as well.
Great information and thanks for sharing!
doobyboy21 I have the same problem on my 600 iq shift, intermittent bog in mid to high range, gonna try this, thanks👍
Dooby Boy well said as well I ran small Weld cleaning rod threw it I saw ur video on UA-cam as well 🤘🤘thanks the both of you. I’m from. mn ripping daily and yes the 2 litttle holes go through 2 don’t go somewhere else .!
2009 assault bogging mid to high right now, have a fuel filter coming and will clean the valves
orientation remark was beautiful. ty for taking the time. great job buddy.
You’re Welcome!
I second the motion. Good form sir.
Would you be able to explain how to remove the bellows if there is an issue? I have mine apart (02 800 Edge) and the outside of the bellow isn’t covered in oil, but has some carbon buildup. I bought the sled 3 years ago and it’s run ok, but I don’t know how last owner was maintaining it so I was going to replace them for good measure. The 02 Polaris shop manual for this sled says: Insert VES valve in a soft jawed vice. Got it. - And carefully remove exhaust valve cap. Ok sounds easy enough. I’ve got it in a vice but the image of their valve doesn’t look like mine or yours. They’re actually not even working on a twin! So I have no idea how to get this off “carefully” as they cautioned. Any insight appreciated. Thanks!
If the bellows were dry and no accumulation of oil on the outside. The bellows are fine.
If they were wet, yes replace them.
The valve blade is threaded on the shaft. The nut will that holds the washer and bellow will come right off when you have it in a vice.
Dont forget your gas port on the cylinder. While moving the piston to BDC below VES gas port, clean the gas passage. If you look in front of your valve, there are 2 holes. That is the right hole. Clean it but be careful. It goes from 5 mm and then tapers to 2 mm. Locktite and torque to 10. 5 to 13.5 ft-lbs. thanks for your video.
Good point.
@@StreetersGarage From the manufacturer. Polaris maintenance book.
great vid bud! its good to have guys like you i learn something new every day
Mark Greaves
Thanks Mark! Glad it helped you. Please subscribe to the channel. I have a lot of snowmobiling content.
Thanks for watching!
Streeters Garage of course i subscribed your chanel is great. i know lots about fixing sleds (liberty 600s thanks to my iqr in particular) but it always helps to find a vid to expand my understanding or learn a better way of doing things. i appreciate your chanel man i wish i found it sooner!
Mark Greaves
That's awesome. Thanks for the positive feedback, it's always appreciated.
I do not have the hoses on my exhaust valves, what the difference? My engine is an 04 700 twin in a Polaris Classic. I was getting horrible fuel mileage so I saw that cleaning them can sometimes be the problem. The underside of the bellows were full of oil the left side more than the right. I replaced bellows and gaskets and cleaned the valves and they now move freely
The hoses were a later EPA requirement to allow excess oil to be drained into the bellypan. Most people would just drill a hole in the bellypan and feed the hose through and allow it to drain to the ground.
Excellent video. I have the same year make and model and need to get this done. Thanks for a great video and very informative. Did you happen to notice a better running sled after doing this? Thank you
No problem. It ran the same. But the valves weren’t that dirty
I was hoping you'd show actual "cleaning of rhe the valves". Did you spray them, let em' soak for a spell, etc. Going from dirty to clean we see but how you made them clean should be shown. THX
Combination of WD40 to break down the carbon and oil. Brake cleaner for the final clean.
i have a lot of oil on one side of the gullitine and barely any on the other is that normal?
+Billy Yohan I wouldn't worry too much about it if the sled has been sitting during the offseason. This is normal.
Well said with the turning of the bellows🤘🤘after assemblied
Thanks - I've seen it happen before.
just got a 2002 polaris rmk 600 with powervalves they are new to me. how do you know when they are causing problems? do they make a noise or is it just sluggish? right after you snap the throttle and let the rpms come back down to idle it has a little bit of a clacking sound and then goes away.
Jordan Shoemaker
The valves only effect higher rpms. You wouldn't notice it if you're just running it on a stand. I would go ahead and pull them clean and inspect anyway.
2002 Ranger. Starts and runs good when cold at first. As engine heats up it starts back firing and will barely run much over idle speed, popping constantly. Sounds like sticking exhaust valve to me. I tried some gas additives and oil additives and went to Polaris extreme duty oil as well. That actually seemed to improve things quite a bit although still there. By continuing to give it gas and get rpm up, it will free up and run good for quite a while, then starts popping again. If a couple tries doesn't free things up I let it sit for 15 minutes or so and usually that will get it going again. I'm not much of a mechanic to attempt disassembly and cleaning as video shows, and not sure if my 2002 is similar enough, but if my symptoms seem right on I will give it a try. Nothing much to lose at this point. Suggestions?
Not sure,
Just bought a 2006 switchback 600. And of course shit is wrong with it that he didn’t tell me. That valve screws into the bellow correct? Threads are gone inside 🤦🏼
There should be a cap that threads on too the exhaust valve. There’s a washer that goes between the bellows and the cap too hold everything together. Should come off with a 10mm socket.
What do you use on the rubber bellow?Carb cleaner and certain degreasers are not good for rubber!
WD40 and a rag.
Thanks good video.hey do you know if a 2004 xcsp 700 edge had rebuildable front rydeFx shocks? I cant find out anything.
+Joe Neault
Typically the RydeFx shocks are non rebuildable. If you look at the top of the shock body where the shaft goes in. You'll either see a threaded cap or a welded cap. If it's welded its non rebuildable.
Take a look at my channel I'm currently going through a 01 XC800. You can see an example of the shocks in the rear skid.
Thanks for watching and please subscribe!
I went to clean my exhaust valves today and the cut outs are on the exhaust pipe side (bottom) and not the top as you referenced. What exactly would be the issue if you had them upside down so to speak?
it would be at the incorrect seat angle
i would look at the tapered edge, it should be at the exhaust side i think. the cutouts can be on either side, or be totally missing.
My sled runs great brought it in for a trade in and they through me for a loop it had great compression but was "about too blow" and my exhaust valves needed too be clean I'm not loosing power or anything should I? It only has 1300km
DirtyJDiesel
What year and model sled? What reason did they give?
Sounds like they were just trying to bullshit you into a lower value on the trade.
Just did a compression test on both hitting only 60psi also
HF tester? Using the hose to test?
what do those tubes do and what are they ment for on the power valve nipple? just wondering for knowledge purposes
They are essentially vents for the waste 2 stroke oil. They are connected to a solenoid which will activate and open up the valve on the solenoid which will allow any accumulation to drain
+Dirk Diggler thank you very much thanks for the video it helped me clean my valves I'm doing a top end replacement and i want to know anything I can
+mark raw No problem. Glad it helped you out. I need to go do mine in the next couple of weeks!
Thanks for watching!
Found out the rubber bellow has hole in it how do you change that?
You need to unscrew the cap from the shaft and you can then replace the bellow
Thanks for watching!
What do you think is wrong with my polaris edge xc sp 800? It spits oil out of the left exhaust valve.
The bellow is torn.
Ok thanks your video really helped a lot
No problem.
Thanks for watching
Do you coat the valves with a bit of oil before you put them back in or just put them in dry? Thanks and good video
I’ve always put them in dry.
I just bought a 2009 rmk 700 155 and the top exhaust valve bolts where stripped ! One bolt even fell down in the motor nowhere to be scene again !
+doobyboy21 That sucks,
Look at it this way. You would have been pulling the cylinder anyway to get the hole drilled and tapped. Not you have a legitimate excuse to go in and go fishing!
I have 2500miles on my 600 polaris should i do a top end rebuild just to keep it reliable??
I wouldn't bother. The Polaris 600 is pretty bullet proof. Should be able to go to 6500K until you need too worry about it
I've done mine twice.....
Torque specs would be cool! Nice video got my pro x ready to rip!! Please snow in mass. If not heading to b.c.
+Mike Mansfield
Season is upon us. I'm heading to the show in NH on Saturday.
I'm having a Christmas giveaway on my channel. Follow the link to enter into it.
ua-cam.com/video/MWOO-BBh7bE/v-deo.html
Will that make you loose low end power??
It will affect top end power. The valves don't open up until higher in the rpm range.
thanks for watching!
So it wouldn't affect my starting power
starting as in trying to start the sled or just from initial takeoff?
I regeared mine from 23/39 to 22/40 and it improves the low end performance a lot.
Starting as in taking off
No it wouldn't. That's mainly clutching, belt deflection, jetting and gearing.
I opened the hood after riding and noticed oil spray on the exhaust valve ports. The breather hose has a minor crack in it from rubbing on the valve. Do you think this is where the oil is coming from?
It could be. Another way to tell is while the sled is running, look at the holes is the plastic cap and check too see if you have any exhaust/smoke coming from them. If you do, this a sign that bellow is torn.
Thanks for watching!
thaks alot for the video !
No problem. Glad it helped you out.
Thanks for watching!
Wrong, wrong, wrong. You said that the bottom that has only a slight bevel on the leading edge, was the top. When the actual top requires a much sharper bevel because it slopes down towards the piston face. So you got it backwards. You failed to give any instructions for removing the oil and carbon from the blade. A 3M circular fiberglass disc for paint removal, that inserts into a drill form Ace Hardware, will remove the carbon with help from a brake cleaner. Wrong, wrong, wrong. You failed to remove the nut above the bellows and inspect for disintegration of the vinyl bellows, because it disintegrates in the clamped area. You also failed to inspect the impact shoulder on the shaft of the blade. It gets flattened when it impacts the cylinder head stops and necessitates replacement. You also failed to inspect the extreme tips of the blade and the piston wall, for impact damage from when the blade shoulders become flattened and did not stop the blade soon enough before the blade impacts the piston wall. You should redue this entire video.
Thanks.
Please edit your video or remove it. Your cleaning process is incomplete and missing checking/cleaning the small ports on the valve and cylinder that let the exhaust gases go through and control the valves with the solenoid. THESE NEED TO BE INSPECTED!!!
Will do.