I am 15 and just got my first snowmobile and i have done carbs on atvs, lawn mowers, weed wackers etc.. This is really helpful and makes me feel comfortable with working on the carbs.
Best video I've seen yet on synchronizing the Polaris carbs. Mirrors what is in the factory service manual with a great explanation of why the two different drill gauge sizes. Well done !
This was really cool to watch. Never messed with a sled carb, pops wants to buy a few tomorrow. Ive done a bunch of small engine stuff but never a snowmobile. Subscribed instantly, i bet this channel is gonna help me a lot this summer. I appreciate ya man , for taking the time to teach.
Congratulations on the purchase! Welcome to the club. Check out the channel. I have a ton of older Indy content that will help you out. If you have any questions. Let me know.
So I have a 1998 Indy 500. Ran great until I ran out of gas. Oops! To excited for first snow fall and didn't bother to check gas gage. I watched this video and then followed each step through and through. This machine runs better then I bet it has in a long time. This thing completely rips for it age. Its my first but it is in great condition! I just want to say "thank you for sharing your knowledge and going to great lengths to make the video". Im greatly appreciative! Thank you!
Well... Maybe you can help... Correction. 1990 Indy 500. It seems to die after it runs for a bit.... Fuel comes out of left carburetor overflow vent. I cleaned main jets(again), replaced fuel pump, filter, plugs, and coil pack! Not fuel lines. I see air in the line after the filter that leads to the fuel pump. I don't see any cracks in the lines(could they still collapse?). Im lost. When its running it rips! They sounds like its not getting fuel... Ideas?
Great video, for myself who is just starting to get into snowmobiling and has to do do my own maintenance, this is very very helpful, thank you , Toronto Canada
I looked for a video like this for so long. And I could not find one in depth enough. So I downloaded the shop manual and did my best, but I missed a step (the 1/4” bit), and I’ve been suffering trying to figure out why it won’t idle but it sounds fine when running. Thank you so much!
we do a lot of wrenching at our shop here in AK, many machines come in and out, but we never ever got to learn this, thanks a bunch, hope you're all safe. 👍✌🤘🤙👊
I can use the same drill bit sizes on a 2001 polaris supersport 550. I cleaned the carbs already. They look just like the ones u showed in video. I replaced fuel lines. Figured I should clean the carbs while im in there. Sled ran pretty good before. May already be synced. Thanks.
By far the best video! I've been watching these other videos and they are way wrong! I've been wondering why my sled won't run right. Well that's due to the fact others have been mis informing everyone! Thank you so much!
@@StreetersGarage Yeah supposed to get 4-6" by Tuesday, but warm temps it won't stay long. But I'm ready, gotta' ride when it snows, because tomorrow it'll be gone.
any tips for first time carb clean? i heard somewhere that you should engage the choke before taking off the throttle cables. also curious if i should have a gas tank ready to drain my fuel lines? my tank is full and am in some need of a tune up. any other hints after confirming the two questions above?
Yes. Flip the choke up so it pull the plungers out of the bores. It’ll make for easier removal and assembly. Turn the gas off at the fuel shut off. What year / model sled?
@@StreetersGarage its a 550 fan cooled indy. 2001 i believe wow thanks for the quick reply! also was thinking about disassembling tonight, but all my local stores are closed and i dont have carb cleaner. better to just wait and do it all in one go tomorrow? also sorry, I'm a newbie, when you say flip the choke up, you mean engage it, correct?
Whelp I cleaned em and now my sled won’t start 🚮 tried syncing the throttle cables because they were kinda high, also took off the idle screws and put them back in, would bad adjustment on those cause a no start?
Sounds like you have the cables too tight and it’s activating the Throttle Safety Switch on the throttle block. If you look between the throttle and the block. You’ll see a pin switch. You can try unplugging the switch and see if it starts. Put the back of the sled on jack stands so if it starts and something bad happens. It doesn’t take off since the kill switch won’t work. Just the key switch
Thanks for making this vid man, just sold my 94 mach z and bought a 97 Indy 500. Took apart those mikuni slide carbs on the Mach probably 63 times and could do it in my sleep. But I look at the carbs on the Indy and it looks crazy. The Indy also takes 8 pulls to start so it may be time for a carb clean.
The best carb cleaner in a spray can is found at a boat motor parts store. Auto parts carb cleaner in a spray can sucks. At snowmobile dealer the yamaha cleaner works good to.
Thanks a lot for the video. My indy xlt is idling way too high all of the sudden. I will try to reset them to factory today and see if that will fix it.
Awesome video. I’m working on my Indy Trail 488 Fan right now just cleaned the carbs, next step is synchronizing them like this just need to find a manual to find the spacing.
Thanks for the video man! I got a 96 Indy 500. Needing to tune it up 500Lc engine any tips on what to do? Need to put new track in. Same carb process? It idles at like 400 rpm
Doing this today on a '96 classic touring, great video! Did that once years ago but forgot the procedure. What's the make of that service lift? I need me one!
The lift is similar to this one. There’s several versions of it. You want the style that has wheels so you can move it around if it’s going to be in the stand for a while. Extreme Max 5800.1184 Pro-Series Aluminum Snowmobile Lift - 800 lbs. Lift Capacity a.co/d/iT6fUXl
Clear and concisely explained. What is base air screw and clip setting on fan edition. ...3/4 turn out and second position on clip? Thank u. Sir, subscribed
Good morning, It was a nice informative video. I have a 99 Polaris XC 500 and it has different carbs. Can you do a video of rebuilding that set and how to adjust and sink them since they are not like the regular choke on these carbs you did on this video? Thanks so much and enjoyed your video.
That was a great explanation . I have to replace throttle cable/w injection cable and was wondering about settings. This is a 440 indy fan cooled , but I imagine that it's the same.
Love the video, it looks like my throttle cable they sent me is too long and when I grab it the idle comes up and it revs up I want to try and find a smaller cable do u have any recommendations?
Good video. Thank you. Any tips for getting the choke cable end out of the carburetor? I’m afraid I’m going to break the cable pulling on it. Been soaking with WD40
I'm guessing that the plunger is stuck in the bore. You have a couple of options. Put some marvel mystery oil and let it soak overnight. Take a flat head screw driver and insert it into the slot where the cable passes through and see if you can break it loose.
Great video. Just picked up my first project sled- 98 Indy 500 RMK with 800 miles that hasn't been run in about 6 years. When I was trying to remove the fuel line to the carb by twisting the fuel line and pulling gently the fuel nipple pulled out of the carb body. Didn't break just pulled straight out. I can cut the fuel line off and easily push the fuel nipple back in but I'm afraid it will leak or pull out. How do I re-attach the fuel nipple to the carb body? Thanks for any help.
Ok. That is strange. Compression will be caused by worn rings or a bad head gasket. But typically if it’s a head gasket, you’ll have coolant in the cylinder as well.
Great video! Would these same size bits work for a 98 Indy 500 rmk? I believe it has 34mm carbs and has accs. Where could I find the measurements for it?
Thanks for reply. I did it today with the 7/32 and 1/4 sizes and it still idles high around 3k rpm’s. Carb boots and crank seals are good no leaks. Otherwise sled runs perfect no bogs or hesitation
Thank you so much-this video helped me get a couple of old Polaris sleds running perfectly. I just got the kids an old 1989 Polaris 400 snowmobile (model# 0880759 s/n 1507596). The guy who sold it to me says it was running when he parked it a couple of years ago so it’ll need the carbs cleaned. I’ve looked through all the old manuals for this year and model online and even spoken to my Polaris dealer and nobody and tell me what the spec is for carb synchronization. What would you do in this situation where I have no way of finding out mfg specs?
It just occurred to me that youtube might be deleting the comments because I included my email address. Is that possible? I've tried a few times and my comments keep getting deleted. Just tried again this morning.@@StreetersGarage
This is great, just got a 99 Indy touring and I’m doing some trouble shoring. Curious what little brass nipples that look like vacuum line hookups on the carbs are supposed to hook up to?
Great video, just picked up a 97' My bowl vent lines are jacked up. Any chance you have a diagram of how they should look. I only have one check valve, should there be two? I also don't see them plumbed into the airbox on your machine. Mine has two barbs on the airbox. Thanks for any help you can render.
Hey I tried you technique after cleaning my carbs on my 98 Indy 500 and have a couple questions. I know it’s running lean as it’s idling at 3 grand now, I tried backing off on the big idler screws but am wondering if I should tune the air screws as well? Also would it be accurate to run without to air box for tuning purposes or will this make it run even more lean while it’s off? Any suggestions on richening it up a bit? Thanks for the video though my slides are now synced which is a plus
Yes - Air Box Should be on. If that doesn't improve the idle. It sounds like you may have a air leak going on. 1. Check the Carb Boots for Cracks. 2. Check the PTO oil seal behind the primary. Look for any signs of wetness 3. Check the Y pipe, Make it's sealed at the union and not leaking 4. Check the Y pipe against the engine. Make sure it's tight and the gaskets are in place and no signs of leaking
@@StreetersGarage checked all of the above and they’re all fine, figured out the issue. I live in a very low elevation, just above sea level so I had to tune the carbs more than I thought would be reasonable. Running great now thanks for the vid, just subscribed 👍
I have a 1997 indy trail touring. It idles good. Starts right up. Carbs were cleaned in ultrasonic. It will go until you smack WOT. It will backfire, bog down and then continue going. Could this be synch or something more serious like clutch or bogeys binding? Also checked compression and air leaks.
Could be multiple reasons. Check compression Check for broken piston skirts by pulling the carbs and Y pipe and look at both sides of the pistons. Carbs are still out of synch. Jets are clogged.
Funny I followed this exactly and then when I put the Airbox back in and used the tie downs for the throttle cable and chokes on the top of the Airbox and fired it up the thing almost drove out of the barn. Bent engineering to attach the cables to the Airbox which put more pressure on the cables and force you to guess at the tension on the cables in order to tune the carbs. Any advice on how to do it better?
Yes. This is why it’s so important to make sure you have the track off the ground when you’re doing carb work. The condition your describing is from the Mia routing of cables up in the handlebars or the throttle cable was replaced and it’s too short. If you set the slide height correctly make sure the cables are not routed behind anything causing tension.
I have a 2000 Polaris Indy Triumph. Looks to be the flat slides. You mentioned in another comment that you plan on bringing one in your shop and will post a video. Are these carbs one of the same, and does it still stay true that the slide adjustment pretty much dont have to be changed, but hold from the manufacturer? Are the rest of the settings set the same like in this video? Btw..., the seat cover I installed last week looks great. Thanks for all the help.
I’ve got a Polaris shift 550, having issues with the throttle not making contact with the safety switch on the throttle block, sled will stall if the throttle itself does not make contact with the pin, do you think this procedure will fix my issue
Can this work on a 2010 Polaris IQ Shift 550? My idle is still kind of high. I took them apart and cleaned everything in the carbs. Or does it need to measured different? I did not get the service manual when bought.
Hey have a 1988 Polaris Indy 650 triple wondering if you know what the adjustment would be for the throttle can’t seem to find anything for them? Would it still be the 7/32 and 1/4 drill bits?
I noticed tonight while cleaning my carbs that only one has the other U shaped piece with the circle in the middle. Not the piece that the main jet rests on. Does it matter which one goes where in this case?
@@StreetersGarage No the other large U shaped piece. There's the one that helps keep the main jet in place and then the other one that has a small hole in the center. Someone told me it may be like a splash guard or something.
Hi, 1st timer and watched 2 vids and subscribed. I like how you simplify. I have 96 Indy 500 running really good after cleaning fuel out from sitting, son rides this. My 05 Polaris 500 XC Sp has been challenging but I am almost there, I think. Rotted fuel line in tank and rust floaters from broken fuel gauge bars. When I discovered that on the engine side gas line there is pressure fit fuel line connector this made the job much easier, lol. Sled runs at high idle using the throttle and can rip around but seems to be running lean and jumpy at low speed. At idle the clutch side cylinder doesn't run. I pulled the carbs and cleaned and over tightened one of the idle screws and broke the tip in the hole, AHHHHH. This is the one on the side of the carb with the plastic thumb wheel and spring. I managed after hours to clear the hole and tapered that screw end a little until I can get a replacement. Is this the individual carb idle screw? Is it air or fuel adjustment? Just for fun I turn up the mechanical idle on top of the carbs that links the two carbs together and both cylinders run. If I pull the spark plug wire on the "good" cylinder then the "bad" cylinder runs "put, put, put". The initial setting on the screw that I didn't break was 3.5 turns out. These are different obviously then the INDY 500 carbs. I am trying to understand how they work. Do you adjust idle individually with only one cylinder running? Seems to make little difference if I adjust this thumb wheel either way. Thanks for any insights. Getting impatient waiting on parts during pandemic. Cheers from Canada
yes, the flat slides are a little different. The most important step during the rebuild it too replace the black o-ring on the float / needle and seat assembly. They flatten out and if you remove the assembly, I can guarantee they are allowing excess fuel to get into the cylinder. Polaris Part number 3130533. Screws should be 2.5 turn out for both. Also you'll need to verify that the TPS is set to 4.0 volts when the throttle is fully open. Get those 3 things confirmed and you should be all set.
You’ll need this tool. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Adjustment and Test Tool, Powered (4 Adapters) www.amazon.com/dp/B07QD2BG86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7VNWPQB99HDS84K99A8Y You plug it in and then loosen the 2 bolts that hold the sensor and with the throttle wide open (sled is not running) you move the sensor until you get a reading of 4.0 volts on the tester.
Ok, those are vents in the event that the needle and seats are stuck and the fuel bowls are overflowing. You’ll need to check the needle and seats along with the choke plungers to make sure that you don’t have an over fueling issue. Once you get that corrected. The 2 center vents can be connected together with T and then have it go down to the belly pan. Same thing for the outside vents as well.
@StreetersGarage I'm just having a hard time understanding the sizes of the drill bits who determines the sizes why wouldn't you just drop the cut away all the way to the bottom adjust the air idle screw per factory settings one turnout and fine tune I'm not being a smart-ass I'm just wondering why that's all it seems like there should be a common number from the bottom of the Cutaway to the bottom of the carburetor I use the feeler gauge I was shooting for 1700 RPM before I began I used the feeler gauge to check the cutaways and they were different but the idol was a little low after I sync the carburetors and adjusted the air idle screw the number between my first measurement before I broke the carburetor down cutaway measurement was only 1 mm different after my fine tune
What years of 500 will this cover ?? I’ve got a 96 Indy 500 l/q 121” track. Are those drill bits the settings I’d need or should I contact my dealer ? Thanks
@@StreetersGarage perfect !! I’ll try to attempt this tomorrow with the drill bit method. Good clarity in explaining in the videos too !! Would love more videos on Indy 500s :))) Thanks again !!
@@StreetersGarage yep sure did, was able to adjust the idle properly ! Just seems I have a bog or drag like feeling once the clutch engages to try and take off unless I rev her up really good lol
I’m trying to sync my carbs with the throttle screw. One carb will raise and lower but the other one will not. I took apart the slide from the throttle cable and it seems to be in working order just like the other side. Any ideas?
Pull the slides and make sure they’re the same. I’ve come across carbs that have had mismatched slides and the cutout for the idle adjustment screw is different
I just got a 98 Indy light fan. I have it idling but got a bog on the low end if I put the Choke on just before I give it gas it seems to help what’s your thoughts
that's sign of it running ( not enough fuel) check the fuel screws to make sure they're not too far out which would contribute too it. This is assuming the carbs are clean
Hey i hVe another question. I have the same snowmobile and cant find the same fuel pump replacement for it. All the ones im finding look different. ThNkz
@StreetersGarage hey another question lol. I'm rebuilding the motor and wanted to know what the head stud/jug torque specs are and where to get that info.
I have a 98 Indy 500, just put a carb rebuild kit in it. It idles around 1500 but when I press the throttle to full throttle from idle it wants to die out, I have to feather it up for it to reach high rpm, only about twice or three times. Still rideable, goes good. My air screw is at 1.5-1.75 turns out from tight. Is there a reason it does that or is it suppose to do that? Should I bring the air screw back to only .75 turns out from tight? Saw a video that said 1.5-1.75 that’s why it’s set there. Thanks in advance
I have a 2004 arctic cat firecat 600, where would i find the specs for the carbs? Ive tried looking for shop manuals but its confusing because there was also an efi model.
Hi there I have a problem with my snowmobile it wouldn't stop backfiring it's got clean gas good spark plugs I just found out it has a broken throttle needle would that cause it to backfire
i've been looking for weeks on the proper setting for 94 Indy Lite (340) and can't find any information anywhere on the slide heights. I purchased the only online manual I could find, that covers 10 years of Polaris sleds and all the makes, but there is nothing in there for this set up. Do you know what the opening should be, and I assume the measurement is on the intake (engine) side, not the airbox side? Any help greatly appreciated. A very good video by the way, one of the best.
@@StreetersGarage thank you so much, I have been looking for a long time for this answer. Will write this down for future reference. How did you know this spec?
No problem. I have a service manual from Polaris that has it listed for all of the engine models. Typically on all of the Fuji twins. It’s always between .240 and .250. The 340 calls for .240.
Hey man thinking of buying a polaris 600 x edge 2001, it needs the carbs synced up. I know nothing about carbureted engines, snowmobiles, dirt bikes or any of the fun stuff. Do you think I could do this?
Me and my brother tried this on our 98 classic touring 500 and we found that 7/32 and 1/4 wasn’t enough. So we used a 3/8th bit and backed it off about a quarter turn. Now it idles at about 2100rpms. Probably gonna back it off a tad lil hair more
I was cleaning the carbs on my Polaris but it has the flat side carbs. I found that the float arm is all plastic, as is the rod for the float arms. I tried to use a mini flat head as a punch on the plastic pin but I put a tiny crack in the tower arm. It doesn't seem to affect the level of the floats whatsoever, but should I replace it anyways?
Yes. You should. While you’re at it you’ll need to replace the black o ring that’s on the assembly as well. Part number 3130533 for the o rings. You’ll need 2. One for each carb.
I just picked up a '95 indy 500. Very tough to start. Always flooding out with or without choke. Pull it over a few times, take the plugs out and they are soaked. Whats my best plan of attack? Sometimes it will fire up no problem. Guy I bought it from said he had a full service done last winter..
Nope. All of the Mikuni choke cables have the same amount of engagement with the plungers being raised in the carb body. When activated, all you want is enough engagement to break the sealing surface and allow gas flow.
I’m in the process of doing this exact thing, carbs are cleaned, getting spark, and gas. However my carbs do not have those blue caps on the stem that comes off the bottom and it is leaking gas every time I pull it over. Would that be my problem? Any other advice? 98 Indy 500
Yes. They need to be capped. Those are water traps. Any water or sediment will go into those tubes. If you don’t have caps. You can stick a bolt or some type of plug into it.
@@StreetersGarage Okay thank you, discovered now it’s not getting fuel to the cylinder, it’ll fire when I spray starting fluid in the cylinder then dies carbs are completely rebuild and cleaned
Pull the spark plugs and with the key off, pull it over 25 times to prime the fuel system and to fill the carbs. Put the plugs back in and it should fire up within a couple of pulls. If not check the pickup line in the fuel tank.
I am 15 and just got my first snowmobile and i have done carbs on atvs, lawn mowers, weed wackers etc.. This is really helpful and makes me feel comfortable with working on the carbs.
That’s awesome Connor. Thanks for watching and good luck on the sled!
Best video I've seen yet on synchronizing the Polaris carbs. Mirrors what is in the factory service manual with a great explanation of why the two different drill gauge sizes. Well done !
Thanks. Glad you liked it!
Just did my 1990 Indy Trail. My slides were wayyyy high and out of sync. Sled is now idling mint and no bogging down. Thanks!!
That’s awesome. Glad it helped!
This was really cool to watch. Never messed with a sled carb, pops wants to buy a few tomorrow. Ive done a bunch of small engine stuff but never a snowmobile. Subscribed instantly, i bet this channel is gonna help me a lot this summer. I appreciate ya man , for taking the time to teach.
Congratulations on the purchase! Welcome to the club. Check out the channel. I have a ton of older Indy content that will help you out. If you have any questions. Let me know.
Best carb vid I've seen,great job.
Thanks. Tell all your friends. 🤣🤣
This video is amazing
Thanks!
Using a drill bit for a feeler gauge, I would have never thought to do this, thank you very much!
No problem! Good luck!
So I have a 1998 Indy 500. Ran great until I ran out of gas. Oops! To excited for first snow fall and didn't bother to check gas gage. I watched this video and then followed each step through and through. This machine runs better then I bet it has in a long time. This thing completely rips for it age. Its my first but it is in great condition! I just want to say "thank you for sharing your knowledge and going to great lengths to make the video". Im greatly appreciative! Thank you!
No problem. Glad you liked it
Well... Maybe you can help... Correction. 1990 Indy 500. It seems to die after it runs for a bit.... Fuel comes out of left carburetor overflow vent. I cleaned main jets(again), replaced fuel pump, filter, plugs, and coil pack! Not fuel lines. I see air in the line after the filter that leads to the fuel pump. I don't see any cracks in the lines(could they still collapse?). Im lost. When its running it rips! They sounds like its not getting fuel... Ideas?
@@wentlydoda floats are stuck or the needle and seats are leaking.
I will get after it tomorrow morning. Thanks for all the help!
Did both carbs to be safe. That was it! That was most definitely it! You know your shit that's for damn sure! Thank you a million times!
Great video, for myself who is just starting to get into snowmobiling and has to do do my own maintenance, this is very very helpful, thank you , Toronto Canada
No problem - Glad I could help!
I looked for a video like this for so long. And I could not find one in depth enough. So I downloaded the shop manual and did my best, but I missed a step (the 1/4” bit), and I’ve been suffering trying to figure out why it won’t idle but it sounds fine when running. Thank you so much!
No problem - Glad it helped you out!
we do a lot of wrenching at our shop here in AK, many machines come in and out, but we never ever got to learn this, thanks a bunch, hope you're all safe. 👍✌🤘🤙👊
No problem - Glad it helped you out.
I can use the same drill bit sizes on a 2001 polaris supersport 550. I cleaned the carbs already. They look just like the ones u showed in video. I replaced fuel lines. Figured I should clean the carbs while im in there. Sled ran pretty good before. May already be synced.
Thanks.
Ok. It’s a good idea to check them every year.
By far the best video! I've been watching these other videos and they are way wrong! I've been wondering why my sled won't run right. Well that's due to the fact others have been mis informing everyone! Thank you so much!
Thanks. You’re correct. There’s so much bad information out there that just make it worse and have owners chasing ghosts.
This video was very easy to follow along to, got my 96 polaris xcr 600 sp all dialed in for the season.
That’s awesome. Glad it worked out for you
Thanks! This was just the information I was looking for. Turns out it's not black magic to sync carbs once you know the technique.
No it’s not, just a lack of understanding.
I see this scenario posted in the groups so often that I had to create a video on it.
So glad I found you last night searching for help. Thanks skeeter!
You got it
Nice explanation Streeter. Very informative and my '96 Classic will get a once over to see how close I've got the carbs set to factory. Thanks again!
Thanks. Let me know how you make out. Any snow yet. I mowed my lawn this week. 😀
@@StreetersGarage Yeah supposed to get 4-6" by Tuesday, but warm temps it won't stay long. But I'm ready, gotta' ride when it snows, because tomorrow it'll be gone.
@@snowking55 we’re on the warm side of that storm. Going to get high winds and rain Mon through Tuesday
any tips for first time carb clean? i heard somewhere that you should engage the choke before taking off the throttle cables. also curious if i should have a gas tank ready to drain my fuel lines? my tank is full and am in some need of a tune up.
any other hints after confirming the two questions above?
Yes. Flip the choke up so it pull the plungers out of the bores. It’ll make for easier removal and assembly.
Turn the gas off at the fuel shut off.
What year / model sled?
@@StreetersGarage its a 550 fan cooled indy. 2001 i believe
wow thanks for the quick reply!
also was thinking about disassembling tonight, but all my local stores are closed and i dont have carb cleaner. better to just wait and do it all in one go tomorrow?
also sorry, I'm a newbie, when you say flip the choke up, you mean engage it, correct?
Yep, engage it. Same thing.
Whelp I cleaned em and now my sled won’t start 🚮 tried syncing the throttle cables because they were kinda high, also took off the idle screws and put them back in, would bad adjustment on those cause a no start?
Sounds like you have the cables too tight and it’s activating the Throttle Safety Switch on the throttle block.
If you look between the throttle and the block. You’ll see a pin switch. You can try unplugging the switch and see if it starts.
Put the back of the sled on jack stands so if it starts and something bad happens. It doesn’t take off since the kill switch won’t work. Just the key switch
Love your videos Tom! Thanks for sharing all the knowledge with the world! It’s definitely appreciated.
You’re Welcome!
Thanks for making this vid man, just sold my 94 mach z and bought a 97 Indy 500. Took apart those mikuni slide carbs on the Mach probably 63 times and could do it in my sleep. But I look at the carbs on the Indy and it looks crazy. The Indy also takes 8 pulls to start so it may be time for a carb clean.
They're not that bad, little intimidating the first time. But you'll figure it out pretty quickly. :)
The best carb cleaner in a spray can is found at a boat motor parts store. Auto parts carb cleaner in a spray can sucks. At snowmobile dealer the yamaha cleaner works good to.
@@danburque2910 ok. Thanks for sharing
Best explanation and procedure ive seen to date,think i can now tackle this on my 90 400 indy polaris.thanks,snooky pa.
Thanks. It’s quite easy once you understand the process.
I just learned something new! Lol. And, I don't even own a 500. Lol. Smart man!!! Thanks
Lol awesome.
This applies to anything with a Mikuni Round Slide. Polaris, Cat, SkiDoo
@@StreetersGarage 10-4, I get the idea. That's why I'm subbed!
The indy 500 engines are some of the best engines out there period
Absolutely!
Excellent video, thanks for posting!
Awesome. Glad you like it
Thanks a lot for the video.
My indy xlt is idling way too high all of the sudden. I will try to reset them to factory today and see if that will fix it.
Did it work?
@@StreetersGarage Yes it did. Thanks a lot for the good tips with the drill bits.
Appreciate your video.
Keep it up👍
Awesome. It’s good to get feedback. I’m always curious too see if viewers are successful.
Awesome video. I’m working on my Indy Trail 488 Fan right now just cleaned the carbs, next step is synchronizing them like this just need to find a manual to find the spacing.
Awesome. Glad you liked it
Thanks for the video man! I got a 96 Indy 500. Needing to tune it up 500Lc engine any tips on what to do? Need to put new track in. Same carb process? It idles at like 400 rpm
Subbed by the way would appreciate some tips my man!! ;) got burned on my first time sled buy track was parched. 4000 miles help lol
Yes, it's the same process.
Doing this today on a '96 classic touring, great video! Did that once years ago but forgot the procedure. What's the make of that service lift? I need me one!
The lift is similar to this one. There’s several versions of it. You want the style that has wheels so you can move it around if it’s going to be in the stand for a while.
Extreme Max 5800.1184 Pro-Series Aluminum Snowmobile Lift - 800 lbs. Lift Capacity a.co/d/iT6fUXl
@@StreetersGarage Thanks! Also carb synch on the 500 went perfect!
Excellent!
Clear and concisely explained. What is base air screw and clip setting on fan edition. ...3/4 turn out and second position on clip? Thank u. Sir, subscribed
Thanks
For the 488 . 1.5 turns out and e-clip is position 2
Good morning,
It was a nice informative video. I have a 99 Polaris XC 500 and it has different carbs. Can you do a video of rebuilding that set and how to adjust and sink them since they are not like the regular choke on these carbs you did on this video? Thanks so much and enjoyed your video.
Will do the next time I have a set of Keihns in the shop.
Great video and easy to follow, thanks Streeter
Thanks!
Thank you for being a great teacher!
You’re Welcome.
That was a great explanation . I have to replace throttle cable/w injection cable and was wondering about settings. This is a 440 indy fan cooled , but I imagine that it's the same.
Yes it is.
Love the video, it looks like my throttle cable they sent me is too long and when I grab it the idle comes up and it revs up I want to try and find a smaller cable do u have any recommendations?
Where are you located? I’m pretty sure I have one.
Good video. Thank you. Any tips for getting the choke cable end out of the carburetor? I’m afraid I’m going to break the cable pulling on it. Been soaking with WD40
I'm guessing that the plunger is stuck in the bore. You have a couple of options.
Put some marvel mystery oil and let it soak overnight.
Take a flat head screw driver and insert it into the slot where the cable passes through and see if you can break it loose.
Awesome video and very in depth and easy to understand. Is there a procedure for making sure both slides are fully open at full throttle. Thx
typically you feel the bottom of the slide
Thank you for this helpful video!
Anytime!
Great video. Just picked up my first project sled- 98 Indy 500 RMK with 800 miles that hasn't been run in about 6 years. When I was trying to remove the fuel line to the carb by twisting the fuel line and pulling gently the fuel nipple pulled out of the carb body. Didn't break just pulled straight out. I can cut the fuel line off and easily push the fuel nipple back in but I'm afraid it will leak or pull out. How do I re-attach the fuel nipple to the carb body? Thanks for any help.
It’s a press fit. It should go back with some resistance which would make a seal.
Good stuff this helps a bunch , got a free 89 indy 500 that hasn’t run in years. Where is a good place to get that sled lift?
I bought mine used.
Black Ice Snowmobile Jack Lift Maintenance Body Hoist a.co/d/42QOz12
@@StreetersGarage Ok thanks,got 120 compression but clutch side psi drops fast is it top end time or ?
That sounds more like a gauge issue. The gauge should hold the reading until you clear the pressure from it.
@@StreetersGarage gauge holds fine on the other piston so ?
Ok. That is strange. Compression will be caused by worn rings or a bad head gasket. But typically if it’s a head gasket, you’ll have coolant in the cylinder as well.
Well done ! Awesome video.
Thanks!
Great video! Would these same size bits work for a 98 Indy 500 rmk? I believe it has 34mm carbs and has accs. Where could I find the measurements for it?
Yes. Same process.
Thanks for reply. I did it today with the 7/32 and 1/4 sizes and it still idles high around 3k rpm’s. Carb boots and crank seals are good no leaks. Otherwise sled runs perfect no bogs or hesitation
@@nathanhartlaub6548 does it idle high with the hood open or closed?
@@StreetersGarage doesn’t matter either way. Might idle a little better with hood open
Great explanation, really simplified it for me. My Liberty 700 and 800's have flats sides....same drill bits?
For the flat sides it’s different. You need to set the throttle slide height and the TPS Sensor.
I needed this!
Awesome!
Thank you so much-this video helped me get a couple of old Polaris sleds running perfectly.
I just got the kids an old 1989 Polaris 400 snowmobile (model# 0880759 s/n 1507596). The guy who sold it to me says it was running when he parked it a couple of years ago so it’ll need the carbs cleaned.
I’ve looked through all the old manuals for this year and model online and even spoken to my Polaris dealer and nobody and tell me what the spec is for carb synchronization.
What would you do in this situation where I have no way of finding out mfg specs?
What’s your email? I’ll send you a link to a service manual I have on my Google drive.
It just occurred to me that youtube might be deleting the comments because I included my email address. Is that possible? I've tried a few times and my comments keep getting deleted. Just tried again this morning.@@StreetersGarage
This is great, just got a 99 Indy touring and I’m doing some trouble shoring. Curious what little brass nipples that look like vacuum line hookups on the carbs are supposed to hook up to?
Are they on the sides? One per side?
Great video, just picked up a 97' My bowl vent lines are jacked up. Any chance you have a diagram of how they should look. I only have one check valve, should there be two? I also don't see them plumbed into the airbox on your machine. Mine has two barbs on the airbox. Thanks for any help you can render.
2 outside goes to the air box. The 2 on the inside can be tee’d together and put down into the belly pain to drain.
Hey I tried you technique after cleaning my carbs on my 98 Indy 500 and have a couple questions. I know it’s running lean as it’s idling at 3 grand now, I tried backing off on the big idler screws but am wondering if I should tune the air screws as well? Also would it be accurate to run without to air box for tuning purposes or will this make it run even more lean while it’s off? Any suggestions on richening it up a bit? Thanks for the video though my slides are now synced which is a plus
Yes - Air Box Should be on. If that doesn't improve the idle. It sounds like you may have a air leak going on.
1. Check the Carb Boots for Cracks.
2. Check the PTO oil seal behind the primary. Look for any signs of wetness
3. Check the Y pipe, Make it's sealed at the union and not leaking
4. Check the Y pipe against the engine. Make sure it's tight and the gaskets are in place and no signs of leaking
@@StreetersGarage checked all of the above and they’re all fine, figured out the issue. I live in a very low elevation, just above sea level so I had to tune the carbs more than I thought would be reasonable. Running great now thanks for the vid, just subscribed 👍
@@cableheadcrew3880 Ahhh, that would do it as well. Good catch!
Easy Peasy ......Nice job explaining .
Thanks Mark!
Should there be a space between the throttle body and the inside of the carb when it is at idle
Yes.
That garage sign is awesome!!!!
Thanks. I love it.
I have a 1997 indy trail touring. It idles good. Starts right up. Carbs were cleaned in ultrasonic. It will go until you smack WOT. It will backfire, bog down and then continue going. Could this be synch or something more serious like clutch or bogeys binding? Also checked compression and air leaks.
Could be multiple reasons.
Check compression
Check for broken piston skirts by pulling the carbs and Y pipe and look at both sides of the pistons.
Carbs are still out of synch. Jets are clogged.
@@StreetersGarage synched carbs and set idle thanks to your video. Compression is good. Have not checked pistons!
Funny I followed this exactly and then when I put the Airbox back in and used the tie downs for the throttle cable and chokes on the top of the Airbox and fired it up the thing almost drove out of the barn. Bent engineering to attach the cables to the Airbox which put more pressure on the cables and force you to guess at the tension on the cables in order to tune the carbs. Any advice on how to do it better?
Yes. This is why it’s so important to make sure you have the track off the ground when you’re doing carb work.
The condition your describing is from the Mia routing of cables up in the handlebars or the throttle cable was replaced and it’s too short.
If you set the slide height correctly make sure the cables are not routed behind anything causing tension.
Any tips on where to find jet charts for these old sleds? Specifically an 88 indy trail.
Try this.
www.vintagesnow.com/Polaris.html
@@StreetersGarage Thank you so much - this is great help. Paul
No problem. Good luck.
@@StreetersGarage Thanks Tom as I've been trying to find this too!
No problem
When is necessary to replace needles and seats, after all these sleds are approaching 30 years old? Thanks
If they don’t hold pressure and leak.
I have a 2000 Polaris Indy Triumph. Looks to be the flat slides. You mentioned in another comment that you plan on bringing one in your shop and will post a video. Are these carbs one of the same, and does it still stay true that the slide adjustment pretty much dont have to be changed, but hold from the manufacturer? Are the rest of the settings set the same like in this video? Btw..., the seat cover I installed last week looks great. Thanks for all the help.
Triumph has flat slides.
I’ve got a Polaris shift 550, having issues with the throttle not making contact with the safety switch on the throttle block, sled will stall if the throttle itself does not make contact with the pin, do you think this procedure will fix my issue
Yes. Absolutely
so on my 93 Indy, the little green hose I have gas pouring out of, is that a breather tube or what is that one on the side of the carb
Those are vents. If there’s gas coming out. You have stuck needles or bad choke plungers.
Great vid
Thanks!
Can this work on a 2010 Polaris IQ Shift 550? My idle is still kind of high. I took them apart and cleaned everything in the carbs. Or does it need to measured different? I did not get the service manual when bought.
Yes, the spec is .256. So you can use a standard .250 drill bit and be pretty close.
Hey have a 1988 Polaris Indy 650 triple wondering if you know what the adjustment would be for the throttle can’t seem to find anything for them? Would it still be the 7/32 and 1/4 drill bits?
.187/.201
Have asked many for info on UA-cam and been treated like shit looking for baseline settings on carbs from 96 439 cc red rocket please help
Head over to the Polaris Indy Garage on FB. Wealth of knowledge and no BS.
Streeters have already tried again treated like stupid when trying to learn
Ok. What issues are you having with the sled?
Need a baseline of turns out for starters
Ok. So this is the 96 with the Fuji motor correct? Says XCR Special?
might be a dumb question but im a newbie to indys. is this the same process for the 488 fan?
Yes.
i know its an older video, but does method with the particular drill sizes apply to the Polaris 440 fan (1994) ?
Yes it does, It's going to get you very close. You might have to bump up the idle a little bit.
Thanks!@@StreetersGarage
@@OutbackOntario no problem. Good luck!
I noticed tonight while cleaning my carbs that only one has the other U shaped piece with the circle in the middle. Not the piece that the main jet rests on. Does it matter which one goes where in this case?
The retaining clip on the needle and seat?
@@StreetersGarage No the other large U shaped piece. There's the one that helps keep the main jet in place and then the other one that has a small hole in the center. Someone told me it may be like a splash guard or something.
Around 10:23 you have all the parts layed out. It's in the upper right corner of the screen right below what looks like a spring.
@@JasonBohl yes you need that.
Awesome video!
Thanks Blake!
Do you have a video on how you installed the scratchers on the skis?
Yes. There’s a video on my channel.
Hi, 1st timer and watched 2 vids and subscribed. I like how you simplify. I have 96 Indy 500 running really good after cleaning fuel out from sitting, son rides this. My 05 Polaris 500 XC Sp has been challenging but I am almost there, I think. Rotted fuel line in tank and rust floaters from broken fuel gauge bars. When I discovered that on the engine side gas line there is pressure fit fuel line connector this made the job much easier, lol. Sled runs at high idle using the throttle and can rip around but seems to be running lean and jumpy at low speed. At idle the clutch side cylinder doesn't run. I pulled the carbs and cleaned and over tightened one of the idle screws and broke the tip in the hole, AHHHHH. This is the one on the side of the carb with the plastic thumb wheel and spring. I managed after hours to clear the hole and tapered that screw end a little until I can get a replacement. Is this the individual carb idle screw? Is it air or fuel adjustment? Just for fun I turn up the mechanical idle on top of the carbs that links the two carbs together and both cylinders run. If I pull the spark plug wire on the "good" cylinder then the "bad" cylinder runs "put, put, put". The initial setting on the screw that I didn't break was 3.5 turns out. These are different obviously then the INDY 500 carbs. I am trying to understand how they work. Do you adjust idle individually with only one cylinder running? Seems to make little difference if I adjust this thumb wheel either way. Thanks for any insights. Getting impatient waiting on parts during pandemic. Cheers from Canada
yes, the flat slides are a little different. The most important step during the rebuild it too replace the black o-ring on the float / needle and seat assembly. They flatten out and if you remove the assembly, I can guarantee they are allowing excess fuel to get into the cylinder.
Polaris Part number 3130533.
Screws should be 2.5 turn out for both.
Also you'll need to verify that the TPS is set to 4.0 volts when the throttle is fully open.
Get those 3 things confirmed and you should be all set.
@@StreetersGarage Thank you very much! How to set TPS? I just bought repair manual online and will look it up. Cheers! Lot's of snow here :-)
You’ll need this tool.
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Adjustment and Test Tool, Powered (4 Adapters) www.amazon.com/dp/B07QD2BG86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7VNWPQB99HDS84K99A8Y
You plug it in and then loosen the 2 bolts that hold the sensor and with the throttle wide open (sled is not running) you move the sensor until you get a reading of 4.0 volts on the tester.
@@StreetersGarage thanks again
You’re Welcome and good luck!
Great video! Nice job!
Thanks!
Would I use same method for an 87 Indy trail? Thanks an I love you videos.
Yes. It’s the same process and Thank You.
Thanks for getting back to me so fast. I have a junker sled race I’m trying to get ready for. You rock!!
You got it. Good luck!
Helpful video! Only question i have for ya is if you know what the stock needle clip position is on these sleds?
All depends on elevation and current temperature. Typically it’s position 3 from the bottom.
Where does that middle tube go in-between the carbs. Mine is not connected to anything and leaking gas thanks
Ok, those are vents in the event that the needle and seats are stuck and the fuel bowls are overflowing.
You’ll need to check the needle and seats along with the choke plungers to make sure that you don’t have an over fueling issue.
Once you get that corrected. The 2 center vents can be connected together with T and then have it go down to the belly pan. Same thing for the outside vents as well.
Nice job on the video 👍🏻
Thanks. Glad you liked it
How do you know that your idle air adjustment screws are both equally in the same spot
Smaller drill sets the initial slide height. Larger drill sets the idle speed.
@StreetersGarage I'm just having a hard time understanding the sizes of the drill bits who determines the sizes why wouldn't you just drop the cut away all the way to the bottom adjust the air idle screw per factory settings one turnout and fine tune I'm not being a smart-ass I'm just wondering why that's all it seems like there should be a common number from the bottom of the Cutaway to the bottom of the carburetor I use the feeler gauge I was shooting for 1700 RPM before I began I used the feeler gauge to check the cutaways and they were different but the idol was a little low after I sync the carburetors and adjusted the air idle screw the number between my first measurement before I broke the carburetor down cutaway measurement was only 1 mm different after my fine tune
Awesome! You are great! thank you so much.🤙
You're welcome!
Very well done! Made me a subscriber.
Awesome! Thanks for subscribing
What years of 500 will this cover ?? I’ve got a 96 Indy 500 l/q 121” track. Are those drill bits the settings I’d need or should I contact my dealer ?
Thanks
For that sled. It would be the exact same process.
@@StreetersGarage perfect !! I’ll try to attempt this tomorrow with the drill bit method. Good clarity in explaining in the videos too !! Would love more videos on Indy 500s :)))
Thanks again !!
Thanks and good luck. You got this.
@@StreetersGarage yep sure did, was able to adjust the idle properly ! Just seems I have a bog or drag like feeling once the clutch engages to try and take off unless I rev her up really good lol
@@89Jeeper start checking the skid for seized bogies and idlers. Take the belt off and lift the rear of the skid and see if it’s binding.
For the Artic Cats, would the height and idle screw be the same 7/32 and a 1/4?
Start with a 3/16 (.187) to set the slide height and a 7/32 (.218) for the idle. Should be pretty close.
@@StreetersGarage much appreciated...... i was ready to put everything back and noticed that the idle screw is missing.... dang it..
Oh no. Luckily they’re all the same and easily replaced
I’m trying to sync my carbs with the throttle screw. One carb will raise and lower but the other one will not. I took apart the slide from the throttle cable and it seems to be in working order just like the other side. Any ideas?
Sounds like the throttle cable is too tight and already has the slide above the idle screw.
When I unscrew the idler screw it does lower, but the slide will not raise until I almost have the throttle screw all the way out
Throttle screw?
Pull the slides and make sure they’re the same. I’ve come across carbs that have had mismatched slides and the cutout for the idle adjustment screw is different
Mine is a 97 600xc Triple cylinder. Is it pretty much the same, just one extra carb?
Yes. Same process X3
Drill sizes .187/.218
@@StreetersGarage Thanks!
I just bought a 1996 Polaris 600xlt and was wondering if your drill bit set up will work for it
Yes. What model XLT is it?
I just got a 98 Indy light fan. I have it idling but got a bog on the low end if I put the Choke on just before I give it gas it seems to help what’s your thoughts
that's sign of it running ( not enough fuel) check the fuel screws to make sure they're not too far out which would contribute too it.
This is assuming the carbs are clean
Hey i hVe another question. I have the same snowmobile and cant find the same fuel pump replacement for it. All the ones im finding look different. ThNkz
Mikuni 14-2223 Fuel Pump Dual Round - Flush Mount a.co/d/6J1utXx
@@StreetersGarage thank you. You are awesome
@@outdoorian9546 tell all of your friends. 🤣
@StreetersGarage hey another question lol. I'm rebuilding the motor and wanted to know what the head stud/jug torque specs are and where to get that info.
@@outdoorian9546 here you go.
1991 Polaris Indy 500 Engine Rebuild - Project Blue Balls Gets Put Back Together
ua-cam.com/video/KREvaELlH28/v-deo.html
I have a 98 Indy 500, just put a carb rebuild kit in it. It idles around 1500 but when I press the throttle to full throttle from idle it wants to die out, I have to feather it up for it to reach high rpm, only about twice or three times. Still rideable, goes good. My air screw is at 1.5-1.75 turns out from tight. Is there a reason it does that or is it suppose to do that? Should I bring the air screw back to only .75 turns out from tight? Saw a video that said 1.5-1.75 that’s why it’s set there.
Thanks in advance
Air screw should be about 1 turn. Are the plugs wet?
I have a 2004 arctic cat firecat 600, where would i find the specs for the carbs? Ive tried looking for shop manuals but its confusing because there was also an efi model.
It might be worth calling your local dealer. I ran into the same issue as well. Finding info on the Cat’s was a challenge.
Hi there I have a problem with my snowmobile it wouldn't stop backfiring it's got clean gas good spark plugs I just found out it has a broken throttle needle would that cause it to backfire
Yes it would
Quick question for you, I need help finding info on 1998 XLT 600 carb measurements
7/32 to set the initial height and then a 1/4 for the idle
@@StreetersGarage thanks I’m new to Polaris and have lots to learn 👍🏼
i've been looking for weeks on the proper setting for 94 Indy Lite (340) and can't find any information anywhere on the slide heights. I purchased the only online manual I could find, that covers 10 years of Polaris sleds and all the makes, but there is nothing in there for this set up. Do you know what the opening should be, and I assume the measurement is on the intake (engine) side, not the airbox side? Any help greatly appreciated. A very good video by the way, one of the best.
.240 slide height and air screws 1.5 turn out
@@StreetersGarage thanks for the reply, I assume this adjustment is on the engine side of the slide, or is it on the air box side?
Airbox side.
@@StreetersGarage thank you so much, I have been looking for a long time for this answer. Will write this down for future reference. How did you know this spec?
No problem.
I have a service manual from Polaris that has it listed for all of the engine models.
Typically on all of the Fuji twins. It’s always between .240 and .250. The 340 calls for .240.
Thanks brother!
Braaaap!
Thanks for sharing 👍🏼
You bet
Hey man thinking of buying a polaris 600 x edge 2001, it needs the carbs synced up.
I know nothing about carbureted engines, snowmobiles, dirt bikes or any of the fun stuff.
Do you think I could do this?
absolutley
Good Job!
Thanks!
What would happen or what would an affect of the carbs not being synced?
Bogging.
Thanks for the quick reply. I’ll have to try this on my sled.
No problem. Good luck
I don’t understand why the first setting is necessary if the idle screw stops the slide anyway? Help me understand please.
It’s there to set the throttle free play so the throttle safety switch in the throttle block isn’t activated.
@@StreetersGarage ok thanks! Hey Happy new year 🎊🎆🎈
@@daveg2199 No problem. Happy New Year!
Me and my brother tried this on our 98 classic touring 500 and we found that 7/32 and 1/4 wasn’t enough. So we used a 3/8th bit and backed it off about a quarter turn. Now it idles at about 2100rpms. Probably gonna back it off a tad lil hair more
.375? Something is wrong with the sled.
Nicely done.
Thanks
I was cleaning the carbs on my Polaris but it has the flat side carbs. I found that the float arm is all plastic, as is the rod for the float arms. I tried to use a mini flat head as a punch on the plastic pin but I put a tiny crack in the tower arm. It doesn't seem to affect the level of the floats whatsoever, but should I replace it anyways?
Yes. You should. While you’re at it you’ll need to replace the black o ring that’s on the assembly as well.
Part number 3130533 for the o rings. You’ll need 2. One for each carb.
I just picked up a '95 indy 500. Very tough to start. Always flooding out with or without choke. Pull it over a few times, take the plugs out and they are soaked. Whats my best plan of attack? Sometimes it will fire up no problem. Guy I bought it from said he had a full service done last winter..
And this video also made me a subscriber!
It’s one of 2 things. Needle and seats are bad or the choke plungers are not coming all the way down and sealing off the passage.
@@StreetersGarage thanks for the reply, ill hopefully get it apart in the next couple days and check it out!
No problem. Good luck!
What adjustment would you suggest for riding at 7-9000 elevation? My sled is a Polaris XLT 600 Touring.
Take a look under the hood. There should be a jetting chart.
@@StreetersGarage thanks I found it. Your link to the manual is great even if it is over 600 pages.
Thanks
Will this process work on mikuni carbs that are on Arctic Cats
Yes. Same basic process. You’ll just need to get the spec for the slide height.
@@StreetersGarage where could I get a slide height spec for my carb
@@kylegraybill8041 Google slide height arctic cat model xxxx
Is there a spec on the choke cable tension?
Yes, about 1/16th of free play in lever when at rest.
@StreetersGarage is there any difference for 34's and 38's. Those look like 38's if im not mistaken. I have a 1996 indy 500 classic and i have 34's
Nope. All of the Mikuni choke cables have the same amount of engagement with the plungers being raised in the carb body.
When activated, all you want is enough engagement to break the sealing surface and allow gas flow.
Is the slide height gap different on 38 and 34 mm cabrs
I’m in the process of doing this exact thing, carbs are cleaned, getting spark, and gas. However my carbs do not have those blue caps on the stem that comes off the bottom and it is leaking gas every time I pull it over. Would that be my problem? Any other advice? 98 Indy 500
Yes. They need to be capped. Those are water traps. Any water or sediment will go into those tubes. If you don’t have caps. You can stick a bolt or some type of plug into it.
@@StreetersGarage Okay thank you, discovered now it’s not getting fuel to the cylinder, it’ll fire when I spray starting fluid in the cylinder then dies carbs are completely rebuild and cleaned
Pull the spark plugs and with the key off, pull it over 25 times to prime the fuel system and to fill the carbs.
Put the plugs back in and it should fire up within a couple of pulls. If not check the pickup line in the fuel tank.
Watch this too.
ua-cam.com/video/yeWP-BPR-Rs/v-deo.html