John Deere Lawn Tractor Deck Pulley Repair
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2019
- John Deere Lawn Tractor Deck Pulley Repair
In this video I show you how to repair a common problem on some John Deere lawn tractor mowing decks. If the idler pulley has snapped off your mowing deck you may have to do the same repair as I show in this video!
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awesome as repair there donny mate well done and it looks like that 24 inch deck could use a coat of John Deere yellow paint too and removing the rust on there too from the owners usage on there for sure
Have a good weekend everyone!
You also. What's your weekend weather look like Up north where you're at ?
@@YourAwesomePhotopossibly rain
Thanks for the video! A little advise on drilling holes in metal. Start with a small drill. It's easier to drill a small hole and then easier to drill subsequent larger hole.
You did an excellent job explaining this spindle issue. Thanks
Looks like the simplest way to fix that problem. If it comes loose again you can always drill all the way through and go that way. Great idea for the fix.
I know this is a old video, but it saved me some major bucks on that pesky non serviceable part ...thanks.
Excellent video. I followed your instructions and my John Deere tractor mower is now back in business. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Great video. Over the years, I've learned a great deal from you, and you have saved me quite a bit of money, because I've been able to do my own repairs. Many thanks.
I am glad that I saw this video and I have not had that problem yet, but will know what to do if it does happen to me. Thanks for sharing this tip with us, Dony, and I wish you, and your family a Blessed weekend.
Had the same problem on a JD 105 it was broken off too deep for tapping..so i drilled the rest out
And ground it flush with the brackett..welded a square head bolt on it ..took about 30 minutes..good as new..
I like the way you explain everything you do..Cheers 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Good job, typical John Deere deck, John Deere has the worst Paint ! You think they would've figured it out by now. Between all the paint peeling off and the plastic hoods breaking off. John Deere is really going downhill.
The older ones had paint that was a bear to get off
Nothing better than a Deere just cause you cant afford one doesnt make them bad......
Well played Dony! Saved customer money! Great fix!
Smashing repair don :-D
And if the person is worried about the bolt coming loose, a drop of thread locker on the threads will fix that. (no need to overtighten).
It may also help with threads created with cheap taps, a slightly loose fit.
Great video on the fix and was very helpful. I made one alteration and used a 3/8-16 x2" bolt instead of a 2/1/2. I was able to go in from the bottom of the bracket and place the lock nut on the top. Great amount of help again thanks donyboy73.
Great vid !! Been solving 1 problem after another on John Deere D100
Very useful tip, skillfully presented as always!
Very timely, as I have been looking at my deck pulleys every time I have the deck off the mower, and wondering how long until I had this problem.
Thanks for the video. Had the same issue and the repair went silky smooth and worked like a charm. Cheers !!🎉👍👏
That is a great idea. Just had that problem this week, thank you.
It's more and more important to know how to fix stuff, instead always replacing it with a new one. Over consuming is the biggest enviromental problem there is.
Once again, beautyful job donyboy73, you are an artist.
unfortunately most manufacturers today make stuff geared to not be worth fixing to keep the factories rolling
@@donyboy73 Or, you have to pay a big money if you want something stronger, But you're right, there's hardly anything on the market today that lasts longer than few years.
@@donyboy73 this is true. I've always bought Bosch tools etc but even they are crap these days. Hence the reason my new washing machine was the cheapest I could find. The last machine was Bosch and failed 3 months after the warranty was up. The bearings had gone, instead of being able to replace the bearings they are encased in a plastic case which covers the whole drum so only option was purchase a new drum from Bosch which was a fortune. So out of principle I binned it and bought the cheapest machine I could find as if it goes wrong and can't be fixed it's not a lot to loose so can just bin it and buy another if I can't fix it. I won't buy another Bosch product again.
I’ve had the same riding mower for a decade. Just replaced oil, plugs, battery, etc. It broke last week, and all it needed was a $7 spring!
@@5roundsrapid263 Well, there you go. All you have to do, is take good care of your equipments.
This worked to perfection. Thanks!
Excellent fix Donny, Many thanks
Great video....thanks for teaching me.
Shame on John Deere for not designing it smarter.
I got exactly the same issue. I wonder how John deere mechanical designers could not think about having a bolt holding the pulley. It would make clients life so much easier. Thanks a lot for the intelligent solution
Thank you so much this video saved me a lot of time and money! I completed myself in a reasonable time, everything was simple to understand and do!
Great job!
Thank you
Great fix thanks Don.
Nice fix Dony! Have a great weekend!
Thanks. Great job, as always.
Nice video, thanks for posting/sharing
That's a smart fix, good job.
Thanks again for a very informative video!
Nice simple fix! I'm sure a John Deere dealer would cut off the whole bracket and charge an arm and leg!!!
One arm and both legs is more like it.
A great cost savings video, thanks.
Great video. Very helpful.
Well that's a lot quicker and cheaper than replacing the deck 😃 though that deck looked in pretty rough shape. (Which probably made the quick, easy, cheap repair even more of the right choice)
Pretty slick, Don! Thanks man.
Nice work around!!
Good video. I do have one suggestion when it comes to drilling and tapping. If you use a smaller drill first, then use the proper tap drill, there will be less chance for the right drill to round out the hole during the drilling process, which can make the bolt slightly loose in some cases because a wandering drill will make the hole bigger than the actual size resulting in not so tight threads. Just my suggestion but whatever works for you.
That was excellent. Thanks.
good video. good time to grease the spimdles (if so equipped)
Just wondering, could one drill all the way through and then use a nut and bolt? Seems like it would be easier than using a tap. Also, would a lock nut be better than a lock washer? Lock washers are not optimal in high vibration applications. Keep up the good work!
Thank you so much for this video. I I just broke that bolt off and was wondering how to fix it.
Great idea on thus fix!
Sweet fix, thanks for doing the video.
Nice fix!
Smart idea, nice video!
Great job! Nice one Don..
Great video.
Great idea. This is a great solution.
That was Brilliant!
Nice quick and affordable fix :) That is how you get it done. How the heck did he snap the other one off ?
Great fix
Good info thanks.
Very good.fix
Good fix , I would have drill all way there as to prevent tap bottom out
Yes good idea and a money saver
Thanks
nice repair I had one the other day the whole assembly was spinning bolt and all had to cut it off flush and put a Bolt & Nut on either side
Good fix Dony. Check depth carefully if you don't have a 'Bottoming tap'
smooth stuff there Donny mate hope you gave it a good paint job after this video that mower deck looked in a bad rusty shape
Nice fix!!!
Great idea...
Wow. I just went over my 20 year old 52" Exmark deck (should have years earlier... so much rust... homeowner used but untouched over that time besides sharpened blades), replaced all pulleys, but they all had grade 8 through-bolts, including one that looked very similar to the thick pulley you replaced.
nice fix
Thanks DB 73
I would suggest using a bit of thread lock to prevent the bolt from backing off.
Great repair though 👍
yes for sure, but there is a lock washer
Great imagination on that repair Don
great video, better to make that repair than by a new lawn tractor
100 - excellent repair DB73
Awesome
Hi, great video as usual. I had a question about my lawnmower. I have a Toro 6.75 149cc that does not have a primer button. I pull the string about 4 times, smell gas then wait about 5 minutes. It usually cranks up then. Do you think I need a carburetor kit?
Great info, this is why I subscribed. The 3 thumbs downs were from John Deere engineers. Thanks for all of you videos.
thumbs down are usually from other shop owners who watch my videos lol
Definitely a case needing BLUE LOCKTITE!!
Nice...👍👍👍👍👍👍
i have a 38inch deere deck and i need to know if there are spacers that go under the idler pulley or on top or both. These spacers look like washer but are much thicker.
One of the pulleys that rotates the spindle on My John Deere S240 completely rounded out in the center. It was just spinning on the stem after 100hrs of uses. Do you know what causes a blade spindle pulley to go from square center that fits snug on spindle stem to completely round? Thanks
Hey I did the same thing, jd didn’t have a replacement shaft for it 😢
It’s a shame that it is made this way but was a easy fix anyway 😊
I wonder if the bolt broke off while removing the nut for Idler pulley replacement, I'm going to replace both Idler Pulleys on my John Deere 125. any advise to keep this bolt from breaking? maybe some penetrating oil first. mine are not corroded at all. anyone advise? Thanks.
Please do a video on the following:FS 45 Stihl String Trimmer.Pull start works easily with Spark Plug out, put plug in and pull start won’t pull or barely will pull....Why?
I have a 2017 John Deere 100. I took the screw off the pulley but the pulley won’t nose up so I can take the belt off what can I do. It’s so new that there is yellow spray paint on the threads. I have put an bar under it to try and get it out but it won’t budge. What do I do???
Good fix Don and good alternative ideas from others. Thanks Don.
The part number for the fix is from John Deere M71682 .
$4.21 .
Cut the old part off and put a new bolt on with the new bushing no problem.
I need to be able to loosen the pulleys so I can put a new belt on but I can't loosen the nuts. What do I do?
Great fix for the poor engineering from John Deere.
I drill out the ribits and bolt it back with new brging
Some "lock-tite" on the threads wouldn't hurt either!
there's hardly any videos out there about the spindle brakes or deck brake. can you replace just the brake pad of them or do you have to replace the whole arm? I'd imagine there would be different answers for different makers Craftsman John Deere and so on at least in some cases. then again John Deere and Craftsman share the same engine in some cases. anyway I was seeing sparks fly out from underneath my deck and I couldn't figure out what it was I searched the internet other people had the same questions never seen any answers couldn't find any information about sparks flying out from the deck on UA-cam once I turn my deck over from the Craftsman lawn mower I seen where the spindles have worn through these little brake pads and into the metal I'm assuming that's where the Sparks are coming from. can I take the arms off or is the lawn mower unable to be used without the brakes being on it? it probably is a stupid question but I'm going to ask it anyway if anybody has any insight into this mess would be appreciated. the lawn mower is Craftsman ys4500 917.276642 42-in deck Briggs 20 hp single piston OHV it only has one bar from the front of the tractor to the deck the spindles are a four bolt. ordering what I believe to be the right ones from Amazon looks like they're going to take about 10 days or more to get here. and was trying to figure out a solution to cut the grass until then. thanks again
Part # for pulley?
Do you know they got a drill bit and tap together now all in one. So there's no mistakes but using the wrong tap
yes I just saw that, will be getting some
time to pop the seal an grease up the bearing too
Donny, Good fix. Needs to be oiled every now and then doesn’t it?
Could you please respond to the comment I left on the Ryobi 31cc trimmer carb fuel lines? Thank you.
i don't have a ryobi trimmer here to give u exact specs
donyboy73 I didn’t ask for exact specs. I was commenting about how I never saw a carb that had to be a working carb before the plunger/siphon/pump would work. That question should have popped up a week or so ago from that old video.
use a T-handle with the tap, not a ratchet. 'Push + Pull' will provide a rotary force, not bending, like 'pull' alone.
Or use a cordless impact wrench, like I do. Tap FAST!!!
The larger Idler pulley on my John Deere 125 is tilted or slightly angled or not perpendicular, the deck vibrates when the blades are engaged. could that be the cause? anyone with an answer?
that pulley will not cause that, check your blades for wear, belt and spindles
@@donyboy73 I think it's time for new blades, one is slightly bent upward on one end, also I replaced one spindle, both flat idler pulleys and the belt to engage the blades, I think the belt tension needs to be adjusted so the belt is tighter. I'm wondering if the slack in the belt could cause some vibration. Thanks
@@donyboy73 It still vibrates, I replaced both blades on this 42" cut John Deere I used brand new OEM JD blades, I have noticed when I have the cutting height at 2 1/2" it vibrates less and vibrates worse when the cutting height is set to 5" any Idea why? Thanks again
@@donyboy73 2 new balanced blades, 2 new spindles, both idler pulleys new, and a new blade belt. still have vibration from the deck. worse when cutting height is on 5, better on 2 but still there. could the new belt cause this? it's OEM John Deere brand.
@@donyboy73 I just replaced both spindles on my John Deere 125 with the 42" edge deck, also replaced both Idler pulleys, both blades and the belt. the deck has a vibration when blades are engaged. both my spindle pulleys looked worn where they fit down on the spindle shaft. they don't fit tight where they mate up with the top of the spindle shaft the (6 sided opening) is worn and you can rotate the pulley left and right its loose, but once the lock nut is tight the pulleys are secure and tight in place... I wonder if they could be causing my deck vibration problem? Thanks.
How's she goin'? That's a money saver eh!!!
the dealer told me I would need to by a new deck the bastard..lol
Hey I tried the valves adjustments and it end up costing me 500 bucks
Heat them nuts first and water them
Add antiz back
Use a tap handle...less chance you snap a tap.
Nice easy fix. Broken bolts are a bitch for sure. Just snapped one off holding on an engine to the deck. Have to do that drill out and retap method. Aluminum block steel screw.
Good old pos John dear if you didn't do that thay would want you to reply the whole deck
exactly!
nice English
Why wouldn't you just do it via grinding/drilling out that stud and use a though hole nut & bolt with a proper bearing spacer? Not the best solution there IMO.
"Best" is a relative concept here. For starters, he just had to basically make a hole for a new bolt and that was pretty much it. If you want to do it your way, which at first I also thought it would be the "right/adecuate" solution but then I think it isn't, you have to cut that off, make a hole, then find the proper bolt with the right spacer. That is, you are now in need of a spacer which Don's method isn't. That's a pretty good advantage if you ask me.
And second but not least, when you put that new bolt, somehow it seems to me it will be easier to come un-screwed as time goes by than this way. Also, it's harder to tighten as the pulley must be in place in order to do that. And if the thing is not un-screwed with time and use, it will probably tend to rust or remain stuck if you ever want to take it apart for whatever reason.
I think Don's method is not only simplier but also better in the long run.