Interesting. We have some similar cedar siding that needs a few pieces replaced. Surprised that the hole thru to the studs did not need covered over more than with the thin waterproofing material.
Question, siding manufacturers (as well as flooring manufacturers) all say to leave a 1/4 inch gap for expansion and contraction (it is wood after all). When you forced the long piece in so tightly that you had to use your hammer to get it to fit, aren't you setting it up to fail? It will have nowhere to go when it absorbs moisture. By forcing it in place with nowhere to go what is going to happen when it rains? Where will the wood go when it expands? Painting the face of a piece of wood does not stop it from absorbing moisture and expanding/contracting.
Oscillating tool more than likely. Edit: I just checked and yes it was an oscillating tool. Also if you are doing it yourself always leave room for expansion and contraction. If you have to use your hammer to get a piece to fit that means it's too long and will buckle/crack when it absorbs moisture.
should I buy a house that has alot of wood siding on the exterior. It is located in the hill country, very nice and modern home buildt in 2022, 2 floors, garage, crazy nice views of hills and hill country area. Any thoughts? the house has neighbors, no HOA, but VERY quiet and relaxing. 15-20 min. to urban city commercial stuff. It can get VERY DARK after sunset in that area.
Whew, most electricians would be pretty nervous about casually moving that service mast and getting anywhere near live wiring. Between the pole and the service entrance least 240 volts and up to 200 amps is present with no trip breaker customer accessible. Most power companies would gladly turn the service off during your work rather than see you fried. You don't mention what fasteners you use. In cedar you need either stainless steel or (old school) galvanized fasteners. Cedar corrodes conventional nails. No primer and no exterior vapor barrier means that paint will be peeling off in a few seasons. Finally, a miter saw isn't that expensive and gets you a nice square cut or compensation angle the first time.
thank you so much for posting this, very helpful !!!
Great video fam👍!
Nice job 👏
Thank you!
Great job, very efficient.
Great video!!
Great job!
Interesting. We have some similar cedar siding that needs a few pieces replaced. Surprised that the hole thru to the studs did not need covered over more than with the thin waterproofing material.
Nice job
Question, siding manufacturers (as well as flooring manufacturers) all say to leave a 1/4 inch gap for expansion and contraction (it is wood after all). When you forced the long piece in so tightly that you had to use your hammer to get it to fit, aren't you setting it up to fail? It will have nowhere to go when it absorbs moisture. By forcing it in place with nowhere to go what is going to happen when it rains? Where will the wood go when it expands?
Painting the face of a piece of wood does not stop it from absorbing moisture and expanding/contracting.
You should have primed the new bare wood first. Even if its a paint and primer in one those will not last as long if directly on bare wood
Hi, needing to do the same and wondering what type of saw was used to make the vertical cuts to the old attached siding?
Oscillating tool more than likely.
Edit: I just checked and yes it was an oscillating tool. Also if you are doing it yourself always leave room for expansion and contraction. If you have to use your hammer to get a piece to fit that means it's too long and will buckle/crack when it absorbs moisture.
should I buy a house that has alot of wood siding on the exterior. It is located in the hill country, very nice and modern home buildt in 2022, 2 floors, garage, crazy nice views of hills and hill country area. Any thoughts? the house has neighbors, no HOA, but VERY quiet and relaxing. 15-20 min. to urban city commercial stuff. It can get VERY DARK after sunset in that area.
Whew, most electricians would be pretty nervous about casually moving that service mast and getting anywhere near live wiring. Between the pole and the service entrance least 240 volts and up to 200 amps is present with no trip breaker customer accessible. Most power companies would gladly turn the service off during your work rather than see you fried. You don't mention what fasteners you use. In cedar you need either stainless steel or (old school) galvanized fasteners. Cedar corrodes conventional nails. No primer and no exterior vapor barrier means that paint will be peeling off in a few seasons. Finally, a miter saw isn't that expensive and gets you a nice square cut or compensation angle the first time.
Cool
I wonder if the other contractors couldn’t find the material or they just didn’t want the job?
What was that tool you used to cut the siding in place?
Oscillating tool for existing siding then circular saw for new
The new looks rough and should have been sanded smooth to look nice.
You should have smoothed it first. It does not look right, and it does not sound right when you mention smoothing the board like an afterthought.