I really enjoy your style of tying and explaining while you tie an awesome fly. You don't get all caught up in trying to explain every last detail as you go...excellent flow to your tying. I have learned alot about this style of fly tying from you...excellent!
Very nice. You obviously put a lot of thought into that hook design. I've been tying on the EWG style hook for about a decade or so. My top hook choices are the Decoy Dream Hook Worm 15 (down to size 8) and the OWNER Jungle Bass in 3/0 -7/0. I have a killer weedless, snagless, topwater rat/frog that's tied on the 3/0 OWNER, and on the sz. 8 Decoy hook. Keep thinking, you're just barely scratching the surface. Tight lines.
That’s a very nice fly, Paul. I appreciate the lucid explanation. I may have missed it but what do you recommend as a substitute for nyat hair for tyers in the US.
I wouldn't sub it personally as there isn't much that will match its durability I know of. The various predator dubbings are ok, but will tangle and won't last from my own experience Bigstreamers.com will ship to the US at good rates if you decide to try it.
If you can't use lead, then consider a tungsten bead on your leader. The reason there is weight on the nose, is because the hook is rear heavy. You'll need to test this out yourself as your dressing will be different. No exact science here. All the best
@@paul_monaghanI was hoping but assumed not! Will the black nickle not hold up to salt and smaller fish? absolutely love you channel. I have learned a ton, thanks
This isn't a bendback, but like the bendback has a tendency to swim up unless a bit of weight is added to the first third from the eye. I think it's best you experiment with weight before and after the bend to see what the swim is like. How you tie the wing may effect keeling and the swimming action. Therefore it's hard to say where you should place weight.
There's a couple of reasons for me personally at this current time. First is pike flies get whacked against things, eaten, so the first thing that falls off is the eye. Always been my biggest issue and one I wanted to solve. I gave up on 3D eyes as found them too fragile. 2D eyes don't have the epoxy dome so just need to cover them with something that is flexible and doesn't crack. I've learnt that UVs I've tried arent flexible enough and will still crack. Plus they play havoc with my allegies and decided to stop using all brands recently. My health comes first over any affiliation with brands. Gorilla Clear is super flexible, strong. The only down side is its time consuming to dry and you need a dryer wheel. Worth it for a strong durable fly in my opinion. So far so good with it, but not ruling out changing again in the future as I learn more. Hope that helps
Thanks!
I really enjoy your style of tying and explaining while you tie an awesome fly. You don't get all caught up in trying to explain every last detail as you go...excellent flow to your tying.
I have learned alot about this style of fly tying from you...excellent!
Another great tutorial.
Most offset hooks have such little space to tie on. Those hooks are a great idea.
Fantastic as always! Super simple, I'm looking forward to making some a little larger for an upcoming pike trip!
Nice tie 👌 🎣
Great to see the videos back👍👍
really nice tying paul.
Excellent !
REALLY, REALLY dig this............
Enjoyed this video. Fun to see a fellow lefty
Glad you enjoyed. I write with my left, but hold the bobbin with my right.
Very nice. You obviously put a lot of thought into that hook design. I've been tying on the EWG style hook for about a decade or so. My top hook choices are the Decoy Dream Hook Worm 15 (down to size 8) and the OWNER Jungle Bass in 3/0 -7/0. I have a killer weedless, snagless, topwater rat/frog that's tied on the 3/0 OWNER, and on the sz. 8 Decoy hook. Keep thinking, you're just barely scratching the surface. Tight lines.
I like the Decoy hooks. Very strong
Great stuff Paul!
great video thank u - kudos
Can't underestimate the value of flash and bass.
Nice
That’s a very nice fly, Paul. I appreciate the lucid explanation. I may have missed it but what do you recommend as a substitute for nyat hair for tyers in the US.
I wouldn't sub it personally as there isn't much that will match its durability I know of. The various predator dubbings are ok, but will tangle and won't last from my own experience Bigstreamers.com will ship to the US at good rates if you decide to try it.
I don't like to use lead. It looks like you've done 10 turns of lead wire. Would you be up for measuring out that much lead and weighing it?
If you can't use lead, then consider a tungsten bead on your leader. The reason there is weight on the nose, is because the hook is rear heavy. You'll need to test this out yourself as your dressing will be different. No exact science here. All the best
I’ve looked everywhere for the materials you used but I have not yet found them. Can you or someone suggest where to buy them?
Nayat isn't widely available in the US. Bigstreamers ship worldwide though.
@@paul_monaghan thanks and what about Angelina fiber
Is this hook strong enough for an adult tarpon?
thanks
Not for salt and 100% not strong enough
@@paul_monaghanI was hoping but assumed not! Will the black nickle not hold up to salt and smaller fish?
absolutely love you channel. I have learned a ton, thanks
I know this is an older video. But weight placement on a bendback. Should it be just after bend or down by hook gape. Thanks Paul
This isn't a bendback, but like the bendback has a tendency to swim up unless a bit of weight is added to the first third from the eye. I think it's best you experiment with weight before and after the bend to see what the swim is like. How you tie the wing may effect keeling and the swimming action. Therefore it's hard to say where you should place weight.
@@paul_monaghan thank you
TOP!
Paul,must ask,which had better hookups. Bendback style or swimbait stye?
For zander I seem to have a bit more success with the swimbait hook with regard to positive hook-ups. I can't quite figure out why yet.
Is there a specific reason to use glue over UV resin or is it just personal choice?
There's a couple of reasons for me personally at this current time. First is pike flies get whacked against things, eaten, so the first thing that falls off is the eye. Always been my biggest issue and one I wanted to solve. I gave up on 3D eyes as found them too fragile. 2D eyes don't have the epoxy dome so just need to cover them with something that is flexible and doesn't crack. I've learnt that UVs I've tried arent flexible enough and will still crack. Plus they play havoc with my allegies and decided to stop using all brands recently. My health comes first over any affiliation with brands. Gorilla Clear is super flexible, strong. The only down side is its time consuming to dry and you need a dryer wheel. Worth it for a strong durable fly in my opinion. So far so good with it, but not ruling out changing again in the future as I learn more. Hope that helps
@@paul_monaghan can't argue with that at all. If it's works mate it works. Something to consider going forward
how much for 1 dozen of these
Hi Mark, message me through www.flashtailspredatorflies.com if you want some tied up. thx
B