Thank you for your fast reply. Being more "eld", I'd take the time and put it as manuals show, the gear dropped in so it's in front. I just don't trust my memory. It's a pain taking the gear out when the engine is in the car, a metal coat hanger helps. Turning the crank helps oil in the bearings. I remember an old ad from the TEFLON SLICK 50 days.."Starting your engine is a terrible thing to do."
The factory service manual showed to point that notch on the distributor drive at the front intake manifold bolt, which is probably the orientation that you have. I always do it that way, for consistency, and someone tearing into stuff I work on sees what a manual would show.
The bushings do wear out and the pressure on the shaft moves the distributor shaft sideways and wears out the distributor bushing. I bought the expensive factory bushing r and r tool because it was MUCH + less expensive then having the stealership do the job.
I have owned many 318 powerd dodge vehicles and of course chevy and ford people bash mopar, i can't stand gm. I have never ever had a failed 318 nor a mopar automatic transmission. I have a 85 b150 ram van 318 with the a999 transmission never had the valve covers off ditched the holley/carter troublesome carb to a 2bbl ford motorcraft with an adapter plate from mr. gasket (best 2bbl carb ever made). been in family since new and been all over the usa more than once, mexico canada and alsaka from alabama. we know the odometer has rolled over 4 times so over 400,000 miles still uses no oil, transmission still shifts perfect, a few electrical gremlins folks always wanting to buy it Because it's a conversion 4 captains chairs rear couch/bed that still looks great for it's age and mileage. I use it for pulling my bass boat, when i went to doing that i had a detroit locker installed in the diff because boat launching with a pegg legged rear end will get you , boat and vehicle in the water, installed a trans cooler, and a full front end rebuild.. so i camp cook and fish with this ol gal for the last 3 years over 3 states still the old 318 and a999 has vever ever gave any problems espically after i chunked the factory carb about 7 years ago. I would love to give it a new efi hemi swap, trans and diff outta a newer ram truck which would help alot with that nearly 4000 lb fiberglass boat...
The slot should be lined up to the left front intake manifold first front bolt piston on the compression stroke damper on top dead center and would replace the bushing with early brass bushing .
If you drop the gear/shaft in “wherever”, how will the distributor be pointing correctly timed to number 1? I always figured to take it out TDC/fire no.1, primed the pump and painstakingly put gear back so distributor rotor pointing same .
Number 1 is just where the rotor is pointed to at TDC on compression on #1 cylinder. That can be set as any of the 8 holes in the cap. You just start at whichever one it is and go in firing order. The engine doesn't care if the #1 wire is toward the front or rear of the car.
It DOES matter how you position the slot on the intermediate shaft. You can run into clearance issues with the vacuum advance hitting the firewall if you install it all willy-nilly. You SHOULD consider where you want your vacuum canister to live/point.
I’ve done it twice and you have to point the notch in line to the number one cylinder especially for a fuel injection motor that synchronizes for the fuel injection trust me it’s a bitch too re do this after the motor is installed and put completely back together lmao 😜 !!!
Instructions that came with the distributor I have says....... the intermediate shaft slot should be placed in the 11oclock to 5 oclock position when #1 cyl. is at TDC compression stroke
Hi there I did a engine gasket rebuild 318 5.2 1997 4x4 Dakota now I have no spark crank no start coil gets power everything has power there is no spark in down to believe either the distributor itself or one of the computers even the alarm
Here’s mine maybe you can help. Month ago had a pin hole leak in pan. Changed pan and put in hv pump while I was there. Month later saw few drops had rear main seal. Pulled pan and pump lucky had the split seal. Put all back together fired it up and check gauges light on oil pressure gauge looked like it wasn’t working. My thought maybe didn’t seat pump well. Also dip sticks won’t go in. Gonna retrace steps but the check gauges and no oil pressure freaking me out. 2000 5.9 ram magnum
Must be a different 5.9L magnum than my 2000. I have a distributor with a cam position sensor, no vacuum advance (electronically controlled ignition). In fact, are we sure this is a Magnum and not an LA(Or you got rid of the electronics)? Either way I followed the factory service manual and I cannot remove the dang distributor shaft at TDC compression per the manual. Driving me nuts. EDIT: Well, they claim it needs to be TDC when removing but I am not sure that's a physical requirement. IT might just be so you know where to line it up when reinstalling(With electronic ignition, it can only go on 2 ways. Looks like the slot is faceing front to back on the engine, for me., when at TDC for cylinder 1). Anyway, got it out. Either the o-ring or distributor shaft bearing block (whatever we call that piece) was slightly stuck to the engine, was able to tap it from below lightly and get it out. In case anyone wondered.
It's definitely a magnum. LA heads are different in several ways, including intake bolt angle and the number of valve cover bolts. I threw out the factory intake and electronics to be replaced with a carburetor and standard old electronic ignition.
@@YoshimoshiGarage Cool. Thanks for following up. I did get mine out BTW and mentioned the issues by editing my comment, I think the o-ring was stuck to the block slightly, had to tap up on the lower distributor housing piece.
A great question. Yes, it's a high-volume pump - though not a Melling (it's a cheap Engine-Tech). If the bearing clearances don't allow for as much volume to pass through as the pump can push, it will increase pressure, which will simply push past the bypass valve. In the case of a stock setup, it would likely push more oil through the bypass, which isn't harmful - that's why the bypass is there, but if you add something like a remote filter or cooler, or as the engine wears and clearances get bigger, it can continue to deliver the volume you want.
I wanted to replace that brass bushing when I replaced the distributor, but I didnt have the tool so I just replaced the drive gear/rod, decided to leave the bushing alone. ITS A GOOD IDEA TO TRY AND CLEAN THE BUSHING THOUGH SOME HOW, IN CASE IT HAS CARBON FROM THE OIL MAYBE A PIECE OF SANDPAPER ON A ROD THAT WILL FIT THROUGH THE HOLE.
A rule of thumb is to point at cylinder 1, but you can actually point it any direction you wish, just note where it's pointing at put the plug wires on in the right order.
@@YoshimoshiGarage they are I lubed it up good and it goes in and stops. It doesn’t slip it and it was tight coming out when I sent the engine in for inspection.
No I took the oil pump off so I can align it. It was heck getting it out now I don’t want to tap on it to get it in. I didn’t know if I should pull the bushing…. Is there an easier way?
How do u install shaft with engine already assembled? This is a new build but whoever built it never installed the bushing or the gear shaft. Also, this is a 440 I have. Please advise sir.
Installing the gear even after assembly is as simple as just dropping it in, though you want the slot to probably point in a direction that the vacuum advance isn't hitting anything. Getting a bushing in without disassembly might be a bit harder. My concern would be accidentally dropping it somewhere other than the hole it's supposed to go in.
@@YoshimoshiGarage ok. I got the bushing partially in with a 3/8 stop off we use at my job for gas leaks. I'm gonna press it in further with something and a hammer. But the gear ahaft was what I was just apprehensive about. The distributor im installing is magnetic pickup without vacuum advance.
Its not recommended to use a gasket with oil pump cause it can get weak or dissolved by time causing oil pressure issues and damaging the engine. All factory assembeled oil pumps doesn't use a gasket.
?? motor can be oil primed prior to first start with oil pump drive extension, then drop dizzy drive back in. Also please clean the rubbish out of your parts next time you assemble a motor, There was a tonne of garbage in the dizzy drive slot from that manky old dizzy you shoved in there, check it out at 5:06!
How easy is it to drop dizzy drive back in same spot? About to pull one to prime with oil and then put Distributor back in same spot since it’s already timed
Is there any way to remove the drive gear with the engine installed? I just finished building my 5.2L Magnum, now installed, and I am unable to adjust the timing. I think I installed the drive gear/shaft in the wrong orientation. The distributor has a notch in the side which connects to the hold down plate tab. I think this tab prevents the distributor from rotating too far. I am unable to rotate it enough to get the rotor to line up with the notch in the pick-up plate with #1 set at TDC. I think the only way to fix this is to remove the drive gear and rotate it approximately 30 degrees, not sure maybe more. Or I could grind off the tab on the distributor hold down plate which would allow for 360 degrees of rotation. I think the tab on the plate only allows +/- 10 or so. This is my first rebuild. Any ideas on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. I wish I had your videos a couple of months ago.
Bend a coat hanger into a sideways U to hook under it, then while you pull up use a long flat head screwdriver to rotate the gear up the teeth on the cam. It should come right out.
@@YoshimoshiGarage Thanks for the information. I ended up only have to move a few gear teeth. I first thought you would have to remove the entire drive gear to advance some teeth. I didn't realize you could lift and advanced the gear with just a flat screwdriver with the engine installed.
@@HardHeadGarage I managed to adjust the gear using a screwdriver. Tight fit with limited vertical space. This video helped put the gear in the correct setting. ua-cam.com/video/S1tBSP58QoQ/v-deo.html.
The video here and at, Awesome Performance, title "Setting Sync Magnum Engines". Both of these videos helped my fix the problem. Hope this info helps you.
Thank you for your fast reply. Being more "eld", I'd take the time and put it as manuals show, the gear dropped in so it's in front. I just don't trust my memory. It's a pain taking the gear out when the engine is in the car, a metal coat hanger helps. Turning the crank helps oil in the bearings. I remember an old ad from the TEFLON SLICK 50 days.."Starting your engine is a terrible thing to do."
Could you use a magnet on the gear to lift it out ?
The factory service manual showed to point that notch on the distributor drive at the front intake manifold bolt, which is probably the orientation that you have. I always do it that way, for consistency, and someone tearing into stuff I work on sees what a manual would show.
The bushings do wear out and the pressure on the shaft moves the distributor shaft sideways and wears out the distributor bushing. I bought the expensive factory bushing r and r tool because it was MUCH +
less expensive then having the stealership do the job.
I have owned many 318 powerd dodge vehicles and of course chevy and ford people bash mopar, i can't stand gm. I have never ever had a failed 318 nor a mopar automatic transmission. I have a 85 b150 ram van 318 with the a999 transmission never had the valve covers off ditched the holley/carter troublesome carb to a 2bbl ford motorcraft with an adapter plate from mr. gasket (best 2bbl carb ever made). been in family since new and been all over the usa more than once, mexico canada and alsaka from alabama. we know the odometer has rolled over 4 times so over 400,000 miles still uses no oil, transmission still shifts perfect, a few electrical gremlins folks always wanting to buy it Because it's a conversion 4 captains chairs rear couch/bed that still looks great for it's age and mileage. I use it for pulling my bass boat, when i went to doing that i had a detroit locker installed in the diff because boat launching with a pegg legged rear end will get you , boat and vehicle in the water, installed a trans cooler, and a full front end rebuild.. so i camp cook and fish with this ol gal for the last 3 years over 3 states still the old 318 and a999 has vever ever gave any problems espically after i chunked the factory carb about 7 years ago. I would love to give it a new efi hemi swap, trans and diff outta a newer ram truck which would help alot with that nearly 4000 lb fiberglass boat...
Yes it does matter where the gear is pointed
Why? If you put wire 1 where it's pointed at TDC it will run just fine.
The slot should be lined up to the left front intake manifold first front bolt piston on the compression stroke damper on top dead center and would replace the bushing with early brass bushing .
If you drop the gear/shaft in “wherever”, how will the distributor be pointing correctly timed to number 1?
I always figured to take it out TDC/fire no.1, primed the pump and painstakingly put gear back so distributor rotor pointing same
.
Number 1 is just where the rotor is pointed to at TDC on compression on #1 cylinder. That can be set as any of the 8 holes in the cap. You just start at whichever one it is and go in firing order. The engine doesn't care if the #1 wire is toward the front or rear of the car.
It DOES matter how you position the slot on the intermediate shaft. You can run into clearance issues with the vacuum advance hitting the firewall if you install it all willy-nilly. You SHOULD consider where you want your vacuum canister to live/point.
I’ve done it twice and you have to point the notch in line to the number one cylinder especially for a fuel injection motor that synchronizes for the fuel injection trust me it’s a bitch too re do this after the motor is installed and put completely back together lmao 😜 !!!
Can you post anymore videos on this build? I'm fixing to build my own 5.9 magnum and these are a lot of help
All of the Magnum build videos I did are published.
Instructions that came with the distributor I have says....... the intermediate shaft slot should be placed in the 11oclock to 5 oclock position when #1 cyl. is at TDC compression stroke
Hi there I did a engine gasket rebuild 318 5.2 1997 4x4 Dakota now I have no spark crank no start coil gets power everything has power there is no spark in down to believe either the distributor itself or one of the computers even the alarm
If the engine is in the vehicle, its probably more difficult to see if it is seated.....I suppose a mirror may help.
Here’s mine maybe you can help. Month ago had a pin hole leak in pan. Changed pan and put in hv pump while I was there. Month later saw few drops had rear main seal. Pulled pan and pump lucky had the split seal. Put all back together fired it up and check gauges light on oil pressure gauge looked like it wasn’t working. My thought maybe didn’t seat pump well. Also dip sticks won’t go in. Gonna retrace steps but the check gauges and no oil pressure freaking me out. 2000 5.9 ram magnum
I'd also guess the pump isn't seated.
Must be a different 5.9L magnum than my 2000. I have a distributor with a cam position sensor, no vacuum advance (electronically controlled ignition). In fact, are we sure this is a Magnum and not an LA(Or you got rid of the electronics)? Either way I followed the factory service manual and I cannot remove the dang distributor shaft at TDC compression per the manual. Driving me nuts.
EDIT: Well, they claim it needs to be TDC when removing but I am not sure that's a physical requirement. IT might just be so you know where to line it up when reinstalling(With electronic ignition, it can only go on 2 ways. Looks like the slot is faceing front to back on the engine, for me., when at TDC for cylinder 1).
Anyway, got it out. Either the o-ring or distributor shaft bearing block (whatever we call that piece) was slightly stuck to the engine, was able to tap it from below lightly and get it out. In case anyone wondered.
It's definitely a magnum. LA heads are different in several ways, including intake bolt angle and the number of valve cover bolts. I threw out the factory intake and electronics to be replaced with a carburetor and standard old electronic ignition.
The intermediate shaft is the same for Magnum and LA motors so is the block height, so fit-wise all of the distributors work the same.
@@YoshimoshiGarage Cool. Thanks for following up. I did get mine out BTW and mentioned the issues by editing my comment, I think the o-ring was stuck to the block slightly, had to tap up on the lower distributor housing piece.
Yes, those o-rings once hard can really fight pulling the distributor.
The magnum came along before fuel injection, so there are carbuerated versions they just don’t have the kegger intake
Isn't that the increased volume Melling pump ?They recommend increased bearing clearance when using.
A great question. Yes, it's a high-volume pump - though not a Melling (it's a cheap Engine-Tech). If the bearing clearances don't allow for as much volume to pass through as the pump can push, it will increase pressure, which will simply push past the bypass valve. In the case of a stock setup, it would likely push more oil through the bypass, which isn't harmful - that's why the bypass is there, but if you add something like a remote filter or cooler, or as the engine wears and clearances get bigger, it can continue to deliver the volume you want.
High volume oil pump not needed on small block mopar street engine
i sure hope you are CLEANING ALL THEM PARTS BEFORE INSTALLATION ! they are looking rather contaminated .
Did I miss it or did He not show How to measure and set up oil pickup to pan clearance?
I wanted to replace that brass bushing when I replaced the distributor, but I didnt have the tool so I just replaced the drive gear/rod, decided to leave the bushing alone. ITS A GOOD IDEA TO TRY AND CLEAN THE BUSHING THOUGH SOME HOW, IN CASE IT HAS CARBON FROM THE OIL MAYBE A PIECE OF SANDPAPER ON A ROD THAT WILL FIT THROUGH THE HOLE.
Should it point parallel with the crank on a LA 360?
A rule of thumb is to point at cylinder 1, but you can actually point it any direction you wish, just note where it's pointing at put the plug wires on in the right order.
My oil pump drive doesn’t go in this easy how do you get the gear in place when it’s to tight?
Make sure the shaft and bushing are clean.
@@YoshimoshiGarage they are I lubed it up good and it goes in and stops. It doesn’t slip it and it was tight coming out when I sent the engine in for inspection.
Is the oil pump already in place? The hex on one probably doesn't align with the other if that's the case.
No I took the oil pump off so I can align it. It was heck getting it out now I don’t want to tap on it to get it in. I didn’t know if I should pull the bushing…. Is there an easier way?
I've never had one that was difficult once it was clean. I wonder if there is something wrong with the shaft or bushing
How do u install shaft with engine already assembled? This is a new build but whoever built it never installed the bushing or the gear shaft. Also, this is a 440 I have. Please advise sir.
Installing the gear even after assembly is as simple as just dropping it in, though you want the slot to probably point in a direction that the vacuum advance isn't hitting anything. Getting a bushing in without disassembly might be a bit harder. My concern would be accidentally dropping it somewhere other than the hole it's supposed to go in.
@@YoshimoshiGarage ok. I got the bushing partially in with a 3/8 stop off we use at my job for gas leaks. I'm gonna press it in further with something and a hammer. But the gear ahaft was what I was just apprehensive about. The distributor im installing is magnetic pickup without vacuum advance.
Its not recommended to use a gasket with oil pump cause it can get weak or dissolved by time causing oil pressure issues and damaging the engine.
All factory assembeled oil pumps doesn't use a gasket.
Can you remove the shaft without removing the oil pump ?
Yes, from the top. Hook under it with a coat hanger or welding rod and pull up while rotating it with a long, flat head screwdriver.
?? motor can be oil primed prior to first start with oil pump drive extension, then drop dizzy drive back in. Also please clean the rubbish out of your parts next time you assemble a motor, There was a tonne of garbage in the dizzy drive slot from that manky old dizzy you shoved in there, check it out at 5:06!
How easy is it to drop dizzy drive back in same spot? About to pull one to prime with oil and then put Distributor back in same spot since it’s already timed
You can disable the ignition and fuel one you reassemble it and crank the engine with the starter to prime the pump
Is there any way to remove the drive gear with the engine installed?
I just finished building my 5.2L Magnum, now installed, and I am unable to adjust the timing. I think I installed the drive gear/shaft in the wrong orientation. The distributor has a notch in the side which connects to the hold down plate tab. I think this tab prevents the distributor from rotating too far. I am unable to rotate it enough to get the rotor to line up with the notch in the pick-up plate with #1 set at TDC.
I think the only way to fix this is to remove the drive gear and rotate it approximately 30 degrees, not sure maybe more.
Or I could grind off the tab on the distributor hold down plate which would allow for 360 degrees of rotation. I think the tab on the plate only allows +/- 10 or so.
This is my first rebuild. Any ideas on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks. I wish I had your videos a couple of months ago.
Bend a coat hanger into a sideways U to hook under it, then while you pull up use a long flat head screwdriver to rotate the gear up the teeth on the cam. It should come right out.
@@YoshimoshiGarage Thanks for the information. I ended up only have to move a few gear teeth. I first thought you would have to remove the entire drive gear to advance some teeth. I didn't realize you could lift and advanced the gear with just a flat screwdriver with the engine installed.
@@lf-1942 did that fix your problem? I'm fighting the same thing on a 5.9 magnum with carburetor swap. It's really rich and barely idles.
@@HardHeadGarage I managed to adjust the gear using a screwdriver. Tight fit with limited vertical space. This video helped put the gear in the correct setting.
ua-cam.com/video/S1tBSP58QoQ/v-deo.html.
The video here and at, Awesome Performance, title "Setting Sync Magnum Engines". Both of these videos helped my fix the problem. Hope this info helps you.
this is very misleading , follow the fsm .