If you buy today's gear through my affiliate links, you can just use the flash on your phone as a light and bounce it off your cat. Thank you for your Bitcoin donations :) bc1qacvd72s9565hpat4jueeultha3qvrv4kznyl3f Molus B100 geni.us/AMZ-MolusB-Kasey Nikon Z6III amzn.to/49zTUib Nikkor 50mm f1.4 amzn.to/3ZvRZqb Canon C70 amzn.to/3B8W5MU Canon speedbooster amzn.to/4ibjtKf Canon 24mm f1.4 amzn.to/4ff0SdP All my gear and recommended products can be found in my affiliate shop, thanks for shopping around! www.amazon.com/shop/vegetablepolice
Maybe you parents could tell me :); which lenses are best for canon R8 with 3d pop. Best choices. Canon printers, everywhere canon is playing around :)
The good thing about ND filters when shooting indoors, is that you can make the practical lights - like the lamp behind you - look more like what you see with your own eyes. And compensating for the ND with your key light. This approach is actually more creative than not. Without NDs, practical lights can look blown out in many situations. So, I applaud you for your use of NDs.
I used to put light closest to subject (human) possible, just out of frame. and it took me some time to understand that Inverse Square Law is REAL. if you put key light close, the nearest part of face to the light will be super bright, almost impossible not to clip, and other side too dark and whole face just not evenly light and not nice. on the other hand, if you move a key light away from a subject, that light becomes smaller relative to the subject, and that is not faltering, because smaller light gives harder shadows (sun is huge but too far away, hence relatively small and shadows are too strong. so, the point is, the light should be at least 4 feet away from subject, in half body or head shot, and even more if the frame is bigger. i get the best results when i shoot softbox through additional big diffuser panel, keeping the panel 4 to 6 feet away from the subject.
also, i always prefer setups without fill light, or fill light being super low brightness, to avoid having to flat of the look. that is why bounce cards work great.
I really enjoy your episodes, especially for their fun entertainment value, however today... I especially enjoyed this episode and learned an awful lot about setting up indoor lighting. If you ever did any more indoor lighting experiments, then I'd be one happy little bunny.
Kasey, you're obsessed with good skin tones, and I don't blame you. Do yourself a favor and get an Amaran 200x S. They have the most accurate color currently on the market (90-91 SSI) and are currently on sale direct via Aputure for $279 USD. Ideally, get two, one as a key, one as a fill. If 200w is too much for your living room studio, get the smaller 100 or 60.
3:30 1% light 1 feet away no grid looks best 7:11 is good too (a bit dramatic and youtubery) but red lut has vampiric bloody reds on Christmas lights and the face I hope one day you will become as prime adept of Holy Light Ratios church as you are an adept of 3d-pop one currently.
It is always about exposure I think - I have spent hours on that! The cameras do not help - they get it wrong. You have to use your eyes I find. Your problem is you are trying to learn how 4 makes of cameras work. If you stick with one, and learn it, maybe you will get to the “truth”.
With how much you focus on colors and skin tones, I'm surprised you haven't done a deep dive into color rendering index... R9 CRI might just send you down quite a rabbit hole.
Remove the grid and turn the light towards the wall so that it bounces off the walls and ceiling, this way you will get a more diffused light, of course try different angles and see which one works best. Then if you want, add another light from behind you to get depth and three-dimensionality (but it should be out of the frame). And finally, use a third light to illuminate the background (the shelf and the room in the dark areas which, when unlit, give noise in the shadows, which is especially pronounced on Nikon shots) although this third light is not necessary if you really want your background to be dark and noisy 😒.
The difference surprised me when you exposed to the right vs. exposing for skin tones. I'd stick to exposing for skin tones if it were me, as I'm already too white. I wonder how your comparative evaluation of the cameras' color science would change if you exposed all of them to the right.
Dear mr. Keseye, 3D-pop Priest. Im Happy you have friend "ghost" WHO has spezilised Lightningin. It's that Guy, WHO have that sexy blondy model in hes channel. You can hire him, when you get 20million $ for movie. Thank you. 😀👍🎥🛠️📢
If you buy today's gear through my affiliate links, you can just use the flash on your phone as a light and bounce it off your cat.
Thank you for your Bitcoin donations :) bc1qacvd72s9565hpat4jueeultha3qvrv4kznyl3f
Molus B100 geni.us/AMZ-MolusB-Kasey
Nikon Z6III amzn.to/49zTUib
Nikkor 50mm f1.4 amzn.to/3ZvRZqb
Canon C70 amzn.to/3B8W5MU
Canon speedbooster amzn.to/4ibjtKf
Canon 24mm f1.4 amzn.to/4ff0SdP
All my gear and recommended products can be found in my affiliate shop, thanks for shopping around! www.amazon.com/shop/vegetablepolice
Maybe you parents could tell me :); which lenses are best for canon R8 with 3d pop. Best choices. Canon printers, everywhere canon is playing around :)
Lighting technique is important, but comedic timing is everything You’ve mastered the timing.
The good thing about ND filters when shooting indoors, is that you can make the practical lights - like the lamp behind you - look more like what you see with your own eyes. And compensating for the ND with your key light. This approach is actually more creative than not. Without NDs, practical lights can look blown out in many situations. So, I applaud you for your use of NDs.
Could You at the end of Your videos tell us what do you like the best? I don't like to think for myself.
Whaaat??….. 😮😂😂😂😂
and That is a clever statement
ask Markus for help kids
Nikon looks amazing
I love how you teach!
I think Kasey and Jason from Grainydays are the best camera channels on UA-cam, although Jason shoots film.
I used to put light closest to subject (human) possible, just out of frame. and it took me some time to understand that Inverse Square Law is REAL. if you put key light close, the nearest part of face to the light will be super bright, almost impossible not to clip, and other side too dark and whole face just not evenly light and not nice. on the other hand, if you move a key light away from a subject, that light becomes smaller relative to the subject, and that is not faltering, because smaller light gives harder shadows (sun is huge but too far away, hence relatively small and shadows are too strong. so, the point is, the light should be at least 4 feet away from subject, in half body or head shot, and even more if the frame is bigger. i get the best results when i shoot softbox through additional big diffuser panel, keeping the panel 4 to 6 feet away from the subject.
also, i always prefer setups without fill light, or fill light being super low brightness, to avoid having to flat of the look. that is why bounce cards work great.
Now we are getting into the "The Godfather" realm of under-exposure in the intro. Popperapzzi style. I like your lighting.
My man. I love this video!!
I really enjoy your episodes, especially for their fun entertainment value, however today...
I especially enjoyed this episode and learned an awful lot about setting up indoor lighting. If you ever did any more indoor lighting experiments, then I'd be one happy little bunny.
Kasey, you're obsessed with good skin tones, and I don't blame you. Do yourself a favor and get an Amaran 200x S. They have the most accurate color currently on the market (90-91 SSI) and are currently on sale direct via Aputure for $279 USD. Ideally, get two, one as a key, one as a fill. If 200w is too much for your living room studio, get the smaller 100 or 60.
Moving the light farther away makes the light worse/shadows harder not softer. Soft is all about light coming from a wider angle.
And making the light brighter.. doesn't make it softer.. Otherwise the Sun would be an incredibly soft source
This man is correct.
7:41 bottom left text got my attention real good 👏
I'm gonna need a tubeless hobo t-shirt @6:33
We always learn something, we never know quite what... - Frank
Never thought you could have too much dynamic range. But man, that lamp in the background now looks so dim like it's not even shining :)
Dear Mr K. I think Mr Mpix just had a little fun at your expense in his last video. Maybe I’m wrong but hey I enjoy watching you both anyway.
For the rest of us we've learned nothing today. For Kasey a strong light without the grid works the best.
Watch CVP's studio shots. It's one of your favorite channels. They nailed lighting every time.
So, coming from portrait world...
Some of my best work came from using the minimal amount of light close up. I think your 1% worked better.
I looked up darking in the dictionary... you were right
3:30 1% light 1 feet away no grid looks best
7:11 is good too (a bit dramatic and youtubery) but red lut has vampiric bloody reds on Christmas lights and the face
I hope one day you will become as prime adept of Holy Light Ratios church as you are an adept of 3d-pop one currently.
I'm thinking Markus could help here.....
Finally you realise that lighting matters more than cameras and lenses
It is always about exposure I think - I have spent hours on that! The cameras do not help - they get it wrong. You have to use your eyes I find. Your problem is you are trying to learn how 4 makes of cameras work. If you stick with one, and learn it, maybe you will get to the “truth”.
“I can see why people don’t do this…” 🤣
With how much you focus on colors and skin tones, I'm surprised you haven't done a deep dive into color rendering index... R9 CRI might just send you down quite a rabbit hole.
1% light looks great
Is Mitsubishi the parent company for all lighting?
We love some good skin Tonehs
for more 3D pop, try backlighting your subject (you in this case).
You really are special sometimes
Remove the grid and turn the light towards the wall so that it bounces off the walls and ceiling, this way you will get a more diffused light, of course try different angles and see which one works best. Then if you want, add another light from behind you to get depth and three-dimensionality (but it should be out of the frame). And finally, use a third light to illuminate the background (the shelf and the room in the dark areas which, when unlit, give noise in the shadows, which is especially pronounced on Nikon shots) although this third light is not necessary if you really want your background to be dark and noisy 😒.
I used to do that in the past, it always looked way worse. Thanks lol.
8:34 stepping on some mighty thin ice there, mate. Turn back while there's still time
"i'm not gonna do up/down..." -_- "i might" haha
Your dying CPU cooler fan is audible. Heehee.
Exposing to the right with a 5000$ camera with 14-stops of DR must be a crime. I blame Sony and their shitty log curve from the 8-bit days.
The difference surprised me when you exposed to the right vs. exposing for skin tones. I'd stick to exposing for skin tones if it were me, as I'm already too white.
I wonder how your comparative evaluation of the cameras' color science would change if you exposed all of them to the right.
It's not the light, it is your skin tone. Living in Canada does not provide a tan.
Finally you learn something , i hope lol
Vegetable Polke?
With less lighting you get more colorcast
Exposing for the skintones and you are red again. The preferred color!
Dear mr. Keseye, 3D-pop Priest. Im Happy you have friend "ghost" WHO has spezilised Lightningin. It's that Guy, WHO have that sexy blondy model in hes channel. You can hire him, when you get 20million $ for movie. Thank you. 😀👍🎥🛠️📢
Now light will start to have 3D pop.
Sometimes i watch you on 144p resolution. Because its disrespectful....
What’s the white noise in the BG? Fan? Is that some kind of music part?
The cooling fan in his PC is shot. He did a video recently talking about computer upgrade options.
Commented and liked
I made a full 5 minute live video for the song.
Further away from light is harder, not softer...
1% has the effect on your face as if you put some foundation on.