I have found that after following the same procedures as you have presented, my tissue, once dry never stays tight, but once again goes slightly slack. Bruce (Ratz)
Hmmm. Haven't had that problem, the models I sealed with Eze Dope (over Esaki and Eze Tissue) have stayed nice and tight. On very humid mornings the tissue relaxes a bit but tightens up as soon as the temp comes up and humidity drops.
Thank you for this video. I've tried Eze Dope in the past and not always with great success but the tip of holding the part at an angle and waiting for it to air dry before setting down is very useful. Do you use Eze Dope on all your models?
No, I use nitrate dope, Krylon spray clear or Eze Dope as the model and mood strike me. Eze Dope is great in the winter as I can cover and seal tissue in the house. Eze Dope is also great when you want to layer tissue trim on a model - see my Triangle Sportster build here: ua-cam.com/video/Gw6UVPSkMpQ/v-deo.html
I remember when it came out everyone was suspecting thinned PVA, etc. Not sure but I've considered some of the waterborne poly I've used on hardwoods. I do have some older EZ Dope but used it only once. I can't exactly remember which model I used it on but remember I wasn't impressed with it. I'm sure I was biased against a "new and improved" product that is likely some other product thinned or rebadged and that threatened good old "dope"(not that I used that exclusively). I'm sure it just behaved in a way I was not used to and is fine. I, too, like Krylon but nothing is like real nitrocellulose dope. With about anything I've use, the morning dew on the grass stains any printed tissue and sags all the unprinted tissue. I'd like to try more printed tissue but won't invest in another printer unless I knew the inks were waterproof(and only a few expensive brand-name inks claim that). Not a killer problem and not really an old school problem but annoying. Also, I guess I have never actually applied 3 coats of anything. I know subsequent coats go on lighter but 3 coats sure seams heavy. Just opinion without any real testing but lightness is king to me(and to a fault sometimes). Great info and sorry to rant. Thanks!
Epson DuraBrite inks are completely fast against dope, thinner, water and alcohol - great stuff. For me three coats of nitrate or EZ dope on the flying surfaces seems to give a reasonable balance between weight and susceptibility to tissue sag in damp conditions.
Does a new bottle of EZ dope have a seal underneath its cap? Just wondering because how would I know if the seller did not sell me a bunch of fake stuff?
I have found that after following the same procedures as you have presented, my tissue, once dry never stays tight, but once again goes slightly slack.
Bruce (Ratz)
Hmmm. Haven't had that problem, the models I sealed with Eze Dope (over Esaki and Eze Tissue) have stayed nice and tight. On very humid mornings the tissue relaxes a bit but tightens up as soon as the temp comes up and humidity drops.
Thank you for this video. I've tried Eze Dope in the past and not always with great success but the tip of holding the part at an angle and waiting for it to air dry before setting down is very useful. Do you use Eze Dope on all your models?
No, I use nitrate dope, Krylon spray clear or Eze Dope as the model and mood strike me. Eze Dope is great in the winter as I can cover and seal tissue in the house. Eze Dope is also great when you want to layer tissue trim on a model - see my Triangle Sportster build here: ua-cam.com/video/Gw6UVPSkMpQ/v-deo.html
I remember when it came out everyone was suspecting thinned PVA, etc. Not sure but I've considered some of the waterborne poly I've used on hardwoods.
I do have some older EZ Dope but used it only once. I can't exactly remember which model I used it on but remember I wasn't impressed with it. I'm sure I was biased against a "new and improved" product that is likely some other product thinned or rebadged and that threatened good old "dope"(not that I used that exclusively). I'm sure it just behaved in a way I was not used to and is fine.
I, too, like Krylon but nothing is like real nitrocellulose dope. With about anything I've use, the morning dew on the grass stains any printed tissue and sags all the unprinted tissue. I'd like to try more printed tissue but won't invest in another printer unless I knew the inks were waterproof(and only a few expensive brand-name inks claim that). Not a killer problem and not really an old school problem but annoying. Also, I guess I have never actually applied 3 coats of anything. I know subsequent coats go on lighter but 3 coats sure seams heavy. Just opinion without any real testing but lightness is king to me(and to a fault sometimes). Great info and sorry to rant. Thanks!
Epson DuraBrite inks are completely fast against dope, thinner, water and alcohol - great stuff. For me three coats of nitrate or EZ dope on the flying surfaces seems to give a reasonable balance between weight and susceptibility to tissue sag in damp conditions.
Does a new bottle of EZ dope have a seal underneath its cap? Just wondering because how would I know if the seller did not sell me a bunch of fake stuff?
Don't recall if there was a seal on my bottle when I got it. You might ask Deluxe Materials, I'm sure there's an email on their website.
0:12 Dilute 70% with water, do you mean 7 parts water and 10 parts Eze Dope?
No - I mean 7 parts water with 3 parts Eze Dope (example: 70ml water mixed into 30ml Eze Dope).
@@michaelkelly7338 Thank you.