Good install video! Derek is a great guy to work with and he can package everything you need (minus the SP 9100) to keep it all together. Like you said, get it all in one place.
Awesome video! thanks for taking the time to make it so in-depth. I've got a dual air compress with the slee off-road mount and doing all the research on UA-cam to figure out the most efficient way to install everything so I don't have to wire it up twice in the Tacoma. I reached out to Derek to get the same package, being able to install the same mount and follow along with your video made the process a total breeze. thanks for the links, the video, and the info! much appreciated man!
Splicing using quality butt crimps is better than soldering, as soldering can introduce more resistance and risk being a point of heat at that connection.
People spread so much wrong info, it is crazy. Thank you for posting this. Soldering is better when the wire is in a stationary position that can not be bent etc. Butt connectors are superior for vehicles due to the ability to flex without breaking joint. Soldering makes this worse by heating wires up and making them brittle.
Hey man Ik this video is 2 years old but I wanted to give you a few tips on what I do. I use a hot knife to cut the braided loom although your lighter trick works. I also like to cut a small piece of heat shrink for both sides of the loom to secure it and make sure it wont fray.
I thought that a fuse block, breaker fuse and bus bar wasn’t needed due to the Switch Pro having solid state circuitry? Other installations on UA-cam have said that these items were redundant on the Switch Pro??
Yeah that’s correct, having built in solid state circuits negates the use of a fuse block which is one of the features of the unit. No needs for relays, fuse blocks and bulky messy wiring it’s all controlled within the unit, just use the supplied wiring harness direct to the accessories and you’re done, easy.
You are correct, these items are NOT needed for this install. These were items that I wanted to include in my install because they were going to be mounted to my mount tray and I didnt want to take off the mount tray later on to install the fuse block, bus bar and breaker. When installing the switch pro 9100, Switch Pros RECOMMENDS you connect the switch pro harness wires directly to your accessory wiring. That means the red (power) wire of your light is directly connected to the colored wire (brown wire for switch 1) from the SP (via connectors, soldering, etc) and the black wire (ground) to the frame or negative of your battery. In doing the install thi way, you will not need the bus bar, terminal bar, breaker, and fuse block. Here's why I chose to add the bus bar, terminal bar, breaker, and fuse block. The purpose of the bus bar and terminal bar were to be able to A) keep the engine bay cleaner by not having a nest of wires running all over the place and B) so I can easily switch accessories to different switches if I ever decided to (and have already done). Now, I have my SP wires connected to different terminals on one side of my terminal bar aka different switches and I have my red (power) wires from my accessories connected to the different terminals on the adjacent side of the terminal bar. Switch 1 of my SP is connected to terminal 1, I then have my ditch light power wire connected to terminal 1 on the opposite side of the bar, and I have my negative from my lights connected to the bus bar. Because the bus bar is grounded, my lights are now completing the cycle ( just like if i had my light's power wire directly connected to switch 1's Brown wire and my lights negative connected to the frame of the truck.) Now let's say I want to add a light bar on my truck but want the light bar to be switch 1 instead of my ditch lights. Rather than cutting the brown wire (SP's channel 1 power wire)connected directly to my red (power) wire of my ditch lights and stripping some more wire off so I can splice it to the red (power) wire of my light bar, I simply just unscrew the ditch light's red (power) wire from the terminal bar and move it to idk, terminal 3 where I have my SPs ORANGE power wire connected (because that would be switch 3 on the SP) and now my ditch lights are on switch 3 and my light bar is now on switch 1. The beauty of the bus bar ( grounding bar) is I dont need to rearange the position of those connections because there are no terminals on the bus bar. It's all one "terminal" that simply acts as a ground. So now I can easily move and add accessories to my terminal bar without cutting down wires from my SP. Let me know if that all makes sense or if you need me to break it down more. I was confused for the longest time until I actually did it and then it finally clicked for me. Now we know why I have the bus bar and terminal bar. Why the breaker and fuse block since these also arent needed for the install? The fuse block is simply an additional spot that is connected to a power source and a ground that allows me to connect even MORE accessories. These are accessories that I need power to but A) dont want to have a nest of wires going to the positive and negative terminals of my battery and B) cant connect or dont want to connect to my SP because all of the switches are now used OR it doesnt really make sense to connect to a switch. Case in point, if I had a fridge in the back that I wanted to keep powered when the car is on, I COULD run the wires directly to the car battery adding to even MORE of a mess of wires OR I could connect it to one of the spots on my fuse block (as long as the fuse in my fuse block can handle that fridge) Another example would be a CB or GMRS radio. I want my GMRS radio to be constantly powered even when the truck is off so I could either wire it directly to my car battery OR wire it to my fuse block that is connected to my mount tray that has everything connected to my car battery. It makes sense to wire it to my fuse block right? And I wouldnt want to wire my switch pro to my radio because my radio has an on/off button on it, so I dont need a switch to give it power or no power. Let me know if this all makes sense. Lastly, the breaker. That is basically there just to protect my switch pro and fuse block from surges. The switch pro already has a "breaker" where if it detects too much power is being used, it will turn off a device as to not cause damage but the additional breaker is there to protect it since I also have more accessories plugged into the fuse block. Hopefully I explained this all clearly. Hit me up if you still have questions and I'll write back. Like I said, it was confusing for me too for awhile and I spent a LOT of time researching it all but once I had it all connected and saw how each device gets power, it made a lot more sense.
Why did you mount the fuse block when you said you were mounting you accessories to the terminal blocks? I’m sure it has been quite sometime now that you did the install and you realised you needed to connect your accessories to your fuse block…..
Just a question? That hole in front of the wiring harness, why did you run your harness wires through this and out the hole in front of the terminal block? I would have kept all the harness wire together with heat and techflex until in front of the terminal block. I would have secured the whole harness bundle of wires with a nylon wire clip from underneath the power tray because of the necessity to cut as little wire off the harness. Also, I would use color matching heat shrink to match the wire color or labeled heat shrink. Just some food for thought in the future.
add a fuse or whatever, you should have just terminated to the 2 lines, soldier is not better then splice or terminals, also the large plate the long oval holes at several spots are so you run the wires down and up from device to device and only connections are seen from top. Cutting short might look cool but a service loop is always a smart idea. if you are interested i can send you some details. [From 40+ years of systems inagrations, design and consulting ]
Hey there! Thanks for the comment! So this set up has a lot of optional additional equipment added to it. Technically, you are right that I don't need a bus bar. Technically, I dont need the fuse block either. I could/should just wire all of the positive wires from my accessories straight to the switchpro harness itself, and then ground all the negatives to the negative terminal of the battery or ground it somewhere to the truck. The reason I have the bus bar is because I want to keep the fuse block separate. The switch pro harness wires are all connected to the terminal block so in order for that to power and function my accessories, I need to wire the positive of my accessories to the other side of the terminal block (essentially think of it like butt splicing them together). Now that my positives are connected, I need to ground my accessories which is where the bus bar comes in. The bus bar is all grounded so I could attach the negative of my accessories to ANY spot on the bus bar to ground it. As long as the negative of my accessory is connected somewhere on my bus bar, I've completed the circuit circle and will now have power. The reason I have the Fuse block is for the additional accessories that I DONT want connected to my switchpro but I DO want constant power to. My fuse block is constantly "hot" because there is no switch telling it to turn on or off. So this is where I wired things like my GMRS Radio or my Fridge. I want those devices to always have power and the actual switch that I use to turn them on and off would be on the radio itself or on the fridge itself. But those accessories always are powered. Hope that helps! Let me know if I can clarify anything else!
any chance you could do a video explaining how you wired in you dual compressor to the switch pro. Did you need to purchase a separate harness and are you running lockers?
Thanks! Glad you liked it! And thank you for reminding me! I added links in the description on where I bought everything! Derek at SDOFFROADMT will be able to make a custom package for you with a Switch Pro, Blue Sea accessories, and Mount Tray, depending on your needs. There's also SDHQ and Cali Raised Off Road but you'll have to buy things individually which could cost more in the long run. Best of luck!
Thanks! I appreciate it! So I originally bought the tray that came with the Switch Pro package from SDHQ but then I ended up swapping it with a different tray from a company called SDOffroadMT. You can hit them up on instagram if you're interested in getting the tray I used.
The wire that comes from the power module. You said you connected it to the truck, so I'm confused as to if you grounded or went to the battery. Sorry. Haha
@@rob4f258 Hey Rob! The negative wire that comes from the Power Module (pin 11 from the 16 pin harness) is wired to my bus bar and my bus bar is then grounded to a frame ground stud on the inside of the truck. Hope that helps! Let me know if you need anything else!
I have a question, being new to vehicle modding and working with electrical items I was curious....You have an 8 switch panel on the SP9100, why did you get a 6 fuse box for the MT? Wouldn't you want at least 8 to cover all your switches? This was the route I planned to go with my 2016 and I am glad I found you page because I do like the MT board better than the Powertray. Thanks in advance!
Yes! The MT from SDOFFROADMT was a game changer! Definitely glad to have that in the engine bay and installing it was super easy! And great question Jim! So technically you don't need the Blue Sea 6 fuse box if you don't want it. I have all of my main accessories (aka all of my lights with the exception of my air compressor) wired to my SP9100. Obviosuly, this allows me to turn on or off any accessory wired to my SP9100 by just pressing a button on the panel. The reason for the fuse box that I have also wired and mounted to my mount tray is for the other accessories that I dont necessarily need a button or switch to turn on. The accessories that are wired to the fuse box have constant power going to and from them and are "always" on. A great example would be my Midland GMRS radio. I wired that to my fuse box (rather than directly to my battery) to A) help prevent any surges that could damage the radio and would instead just blow a fuse but also B) because I want the radio always hot so I can have the truck turned off but still supplying power to my radio which I can turn on and off via the power button on the walkie part of the radio. Another accessory that you might want always hot but not directly connected to the car battery could be a fridge or maybe some lights in the bed that you'd rather control from the back rather than inside the cab. I hope that answered your question! Let me know if you have any other questions!
@@dattran6372 Lol read the comments above bud! It explains why I have the fuse box. It's not for the switch pro, its for additional accessories that arent mounted to the SP. The fuse box is just mounted to the same tray that my SP is mounted to
I bought a few different sizes on amazon. You can get plastic wire loom that is a harder, more protective material, or go with what I went with and bought expandable braided wire sleeving. It's a little harder to feed the wires through at times but looks better IMO.
New to all of this. If i were installing instead the RCR-Force-12, what size bus bar, terminal blocks, and breaker would i need? Apologies for my ignorance
Hey Matthew! Great question! First off, let me start off with saying, TECHNICALLY, you dont need ANY of those items if you don't want them. Switch Pros actually recommends wiring your accessories (lights, horns, compressor, etc) directly to the provided wiring harness that will plug into the power module of the Switch Pro. They recommend this because it eliminates the possibility of water damage to the device since the wires are heat shrunk directly together. By doing it the way I did it, there is the possibility of corrosion or water damage to the wires via the open bus bar and terminal block. The reason that I did it this way instead of connecting my accessories directly to the SP wire harness is because I wanted to be able to easily move around or remove accessories without having to cut the heatshrunk wiring. I can easily unscrew a wire from one slot of the terminal block and move that accessory to a different slot, therefore moving what swich that accessory is connected to. I can also easily ADD additional accessories to a switch without needing to tap into the wiring harness by simply connecting that additional accessory to the specific terminal of the terminal block. Also, one thing to note in case it wasn't clear in my video, the terminal block is what you connect your Switch pro wires and your POSITIVE accessory wires to and the bus bar is used to connect your NEGATIVE wires of your accessory to. The reason for that is the Terminal block has the small plastic tabs in between each terminal to keep seperate the different connections where the bus bar does not have the plastic tabs seperating the connections but that is ok because it's essentially just there to ground the negative wires. Now that I got all that out there lol, if you are still wanting to do your install the way I did it, since you have a 12 switch panel, you'll want a bus bar and terminal block with at least 12 terminals. One terminal per switch. For example, you would connect the first wire of your SP to terminal 1 on one side of the terminal block, connect your positive of your accessory to the opposite side of the terminal block on terminal 1, and connect your negative of the accessory to terminal 1 of the bus bar. You would do this for all your different switches and accessories. Terminal 2 would be connected to a switch from your SP and your second accessory would be connected to terminal 2 on the other side of the terminal block. The second accesorrie's negative would be connected to the 2nd terminal of the bus bar and so on. **One thing to note though, make sure to check your switch pros wiring harness in the instructions because for the SP9100, the second wire is ACTUALLY for the 3rd switch on the switch panel and the 9th wire (1st wire on the second row) is actually for the second switch on the switch panel. As for the breaker, that is not connected to the switch pros in any way and only serves the purpose of connecting additional accessories that I don't want or need connected to my SP. For example, I have a Midland GMRS radio that I want constant power to and since I turn it on and off via the button on the radio, I wouldnt want it connected to the switch pro as thats just wasting a switch. I could wire it directly to the battery but then I'll start to have a BUNCH of wires coming off the battery terminals. Instead, I added a fuse block that is connected to the bus bar (grounded) and to the positive of the battery terminal. That way I can add accessories to the fuse block that will always have power and be grounded at the same time. I know thats a LOT of information so if you're still confused or have more questions, let me know and I'll try and explain better! Hope it helps and good luck on your install!
Hey Nick, yes, you are correct that the 9100 handles everything that is connected to it. The fuse panel is for other accessories that I want to have power to that isn't powered by the Switch Pro. I just installed the fuse panel on the mounting tray for organization and to keep everything powered together. I have my Midland MXT575 GMRS radio and will soon have my Dometic fridge connected to the fuse panel. It makes no sense to wire those devices to the 9100 as I dont need to waste a switch for those devices. The midland is powered on with the handheld radio but I want constant power to that device so rather than wiring it directly to the battery, I have it connected to the fuse panel which is then connected to the battery. Same would go for the fridge. Rather than having a bundle of wires all connected to the battery, the additional accessories are wired to the fuse panel. The only thing NOT wired to the fuse panel and is directly wired to the battery is my winch. Hope that answered your question!
@@HorizonBoundreat vid, and I mean no offense but the wiring is incorrect. Technically you are “ok” but really you should have one 120A breaker for the switch pro (if you exceed 85% total load per their FAQ) and one for the fuses block. Personally I see the fuse block as useless but I only run lights and compressor and generally the reason the switch pro is expensive is because it has solid state relays and over current protection built in. It’s really well built. You can run you radio too directly from the switch pro.
@@5280Recreation No offense at all! I'm still learning with all of this so I appreciate the comment! Just to clarify, I noticed you said 120A breaker and not fuse. I currently have a 120A fuse on my positive battery terminal that is then wired to my 100A breaker. From the breaker, I then have the switch pro and my fuse block being powered. If the 120A fuse blows, it wouldn't be sending any power to the circuit breaker, SP or fuse block. Are you suggesting that rather than having the fuse block connected to the circuit breaker along witht the SP, I should wire the fuse block to its own 120A fuse on the battery terminal or a 120 breaker between the battery and the fuse block? That way the SP is protected by its own 120A fuse and the fuse block is protected by its own 120A fuse? I always wondered if the 100A breaker was needed since I have the 120A fuse at the battery terminal but kept it there just as extra protection even though I know the SP has it's own relays to protect it from being damaged. As for running the radio via my SP instead of via my fuse block, that would require wiring it to a SP switch wouldn't it? I didn't want to have it set up that way because I didnt want to have to hit a switch every time I wanted power to my radio. By having it on my fuse block which has constant power, that means that my radio is always powered and I can therefore just turn it on and off via the button on my radio. Thanks for the comment and reaching out. I learn most of this from hours and hours watching youtube and reading forums so your input is greatly appreciated!
@@HorizonBound I’m glad, I was worried I would offend you. It’s not you, the marketing and internet is confusing things. Think of the switch pro and fuse block as two SEPARATE systems. It’s confusing as hell because you bought it as a kit but they aren’t all related. The Blue Sea fuse block if maxed out will draw ~100A and that is why you have the breaker. It is to protect your battery and other systems if the fuse block pulls too much current. The switch pro, as a separate system, can draw 125A if all switches are maxed out. But you don’t really need a breaker as the Switch pro has solid state current protection. You could add a 120A breaker or fuse if you wanted but it isn’t needed generally and for sure not in your setup. If you thought you did, call them or read their FAQ where they specifically address this. Your current setup of circuit breaker and fuse on the same line (series) means that wire can only carry up to 100A before the fuse pops. This is not good. Remember circuit breakers and fuses perform the same general function, without getting off into the weeds why you might choose one over the other. You don’t want this in your setup. The 120A fuse could power the switch pro if you wanted or you could remove it and tie the switch pro directly to the battery. Either way the fuse block should be powered by itself through the 100A breaker. As for the CB yea you’d have to configure a switch and make it live on battery and you could make it be on my default. IMHO this is better as the switch pro has low voltage detection so if the battery drops below X volts it turns off. In my Jeep I’ve been burned by leaving my CB on more than once and it sucks. Hope that clears some of this stuff up.
@@5280Recreation This is all great information, thanks! And you're absolutely right about the 120A fuse not being shown in the video. I must have added that when adding my winch (stay tuned for that video in the future lol) So going off of this great info, I'll take the Switch Pro off of the 100A breaker and wire it straight to my positive battery terminal. The fuse block I'll leave connected to the 100A breaker and that will also be wired to the positive battery terminal. This will then have both systems seperated as well as protected. Fuse block protected by the 100A breaker and SP protected by its internal solid state relays. And you make a good point about wiring the radio to a switch. It's a loss of a switch but it is nice that the SP turns off everything if the battery drops below a certain voltage. Luckily, I've never drained a battery but I'm guilty of accidentally leaving my radio on as well. Thanks again for all the great info and for clearing things up! Much appreciated!
I have a question. Is there a way to install all lights to a switch then have them activated individually when needed and ALSO all of them simultaneously when needed?
I am asking because I want to be able to use my lights individually, but if the time comes that I am in a VERY DARK AREA I want to be able to turn on my lights all at the same time with one switch? I hope someone can understand what I am trying to say here.
@@13SemperFi37 Hey Carlos! So if I'm understanding you correclty, my answer would be yes its possible, but IMO not really practical OR at least it would require a lot of wiring / programming to happen. Usually you would have one light per each switch but if you wanted to wire two, three, or more lights to one switch, that is possible but when you turn off that switch, all of those lights would go off. Theoretically, you could wire a switch that would control a bunch of individual switches so when you hit that main switch (provided all of the switches are turned on for the secondary switches, you could turn on and off all lights from one switch. To create an example, lets say I have a main switch that is wired to a switcher panel with three switches. Switch 1 controls ditch lights, switch 2 controls a bumper light bar, and switch 3 controls the chase lights. I then want the main switch to control those three switches on that switch panel PLUS a lightbar on the roof. Theoretically, I could turn on the main switch to power on the roof light bar AND that would also send power to the switch panel and provided all of those switches on the switch panel are on, it would power on all those lights as well. If i wanted to turn off the three switches on the switch panel, I would just turn off the switch panel leaving the roof light bar on. The only reason I wouldnt want to do something like this is because it could cause a huge power surge where all lights are drawing large amounts of power at one time. If you did do a set up like this, I would install some sort of breaker to prevent overloading.
@@HorizonBound ok. Thank you! I was thinking I would need a breaker. I was wondering incase I needed all lights for an emergency situation. I appreciate your help on this.
@@HorizonBound I saw the video you put out on the chase lights, but I would love watching some more accessories getting hooked up. Maybe some ditch lights?
Thanks for the reminder! I havent yet actually! I'm still trying to figure out what I should use it for! I've done quite a few more mods since this video that I'm still editing but long story short, I'm trying to decide if I should use the trigger wire as a high beam function for my LP6 light bar, or if I should use it as a trigger for my reverse lights and chase lights. What are you using yours for?
Haha, I literally just did what you did…. Down to the T using your video as a tutorial. Love your vids. So im not sure what im gonna use it for either. Keep the vids coming! You were also 100% correct about derek. Super cool guy to buy from.
@@joeybuley1086 awesome! Glad to hear man! I have a BUNCH of videos that are shot, I just need to sit down and edit them all so be on the lookout for more uploads soon! And yea Derek is great! Definitely glad I bought from him. Whats your instagram handle? I'll have to check out your build!
Do they make this tray compatible with manual trans tacomas? The mount for fender is where the clutch fluid Reservoir is located on the manual trans tacomas!
This is crazy. The Auxbeam 8 System is easier and cleaner of a install. I have not researched the cost of the Switch Pro yet, but watching the install convinces me that the Auxbeam is the better way to go. Lastly the Auxbeam Control is Remote Controlled and with the added AI Box you can put the Switch Controller on your Factory Display.
Hey Chris! I unfortunately don't know anything really about the Garmin power switch. From just a quick google search, it looks to be pretty similar to the Switch Pro in the sense that you can power different switches from a panel or bluetooth device. I know there are a few different options out there that all do roughly the same thing. My buddy has the Rough Country switch and minus a few small features, it does pretty much what the Switch Pro does.
@@HorizonBound yeah I’ve heard pros and cons for both. The Garmin takes less wiring and such but you need that 1200 Garmin tread screen I like the simplicity factor of the switch pro. Blaze Offroad also offers full prewired setups which is nice
@@AFGixxeR88 Yeah it definitely has a lot of wiring to do but honestly, it wasnt too difficult looking back at it. More overwhelming then anything. That's pretty sick about Blaze Offroad. I've heard goood things about them.
Just a question? That hole in front of the wiring harness, why did you run your harness wires through this and out the hole in front of the terminal block? I would have kept all the harness wire together with heat and techflex until in front of the terminal block. I would have secured the whole harness bundle of wires with a nylon wire clip from underneath the power tray because of the necessity to cut as little wire off the harness. Also, I would use color matching heat shrink to match the wire color or labeled heat shrink. Just some food for thought in the future.
Yeah, it was on the more expensive side but more affordable than an S POD and more functions and higher working amps then the cheaper Amazon ones. I use the bluetooth feature a lot to control lights via my phone and I like how there are four 35A switches and four 20A switches. But yeah, I feel ya on the price.
Good install video! Derek is a great guy to work with and he can package everything you need (minus the SP 9100) to keep it all together. Like you said, get it all in one place.
Definitely! Derek is awesome!
Awesome video! thanks for taking the time to make it so in-depth. I've got a dual air compress with the slee off-road mount and doing all the research on UA-cam to figure out the most efficient way to install everything so I don't have to wire it up twice in the Tacoma. I reached out to Derek to get the same package, being able to install the same mount and follow along with your video made the process a total breeze. thanks for the links, the video, and the info! much appreciated man!
Glad the video helped! Derek's awesome! Great guy to do business with!
Bro your videos are great. No other video shows the detailed wiring of the Switch Pro. Also your LP6 video was very educational.
Awesome! Glad to hear and stoked that my videos are helpful! Thanks for the comment!
Splicing using quality butt crimps is better than soldering, as soldering can introduce more resistance and risk being a point of heat at that connection.
People spread so much wrong info, it is crazy. Thank you for posting this.
Soldering is better when the wire is in a stationary position that can not be bent etc.
Butt connectors are superior for vehicles due to the ability to flex without breaking joint. Soldering makes this worse by heating wires up and making them brittle.
Hey man Ik this video is 2 years old but I wanted to give you a few tips on what I do. I use a hot knife to cut the braided loom although your lighter trick works. I also like to cut a small piece of heat shrink for both sides of the loom to secure it and make sure it wont fray.
Incredibly helpful! Excellent walk thru. Thank you!
Awesome! Glad it helped out! Thanks for the comment!
Do they not sell the mounting trays anymore? Can't find them on the website
check out instagram.com/sdoffroadmt/?hl=en
Derek at SDOffroadMT makes some awesome trays that make install so much easier!
I thought that a fuse block, breaker fuse and bus bar wasn’t needed due to the Switch Pro having solid state circuitry? Other installations on UA-cam have said that these items were redundant on the Switch Pro??
Yeah that’s correct, having built in solid state circuits negates the use of a fuse block which is one of the features of the unit. No needs for relays, fuse blocks and bulky messy wiring it’s all controlled within the unit, just use the supplied wiring harness direct to the accessories and you’re done, easy.
You are correct, these items are NOT needed for this install. These were items that I wanted to include in my install because they were going to be mounted to my mount tray and I didnt want to take off the mount tray later on to install the fuse block, bus bar and breaker.
When installing the switch pro 9100, Switch Pros RECOMMENDS you connect the switch pro harness wires directly to your accessory wiring. That means the red (power) wire of your light is directly connected to the colored wire (brown wire for switch 1) from the SP (via connectors, soldering, etc) and the black wire (ground) to the frame or negative of your battery. In doing the install thi way, you will not need the bus bar, terminal bar, breaker, and fuse block.
Here's why I chose to add the bus bar, terminal bar, breaker, and fuse block. The purpose of the bus bar and terminal bar were to be able to A) keep the engine bay cleaner by not having a nest of wires running all over the place and B) so I can easily switch accessories to different switches if I ever decided to (and have already done). Now, I have my SP wires connected to different terminals on one side of my terminal bar aka different switches and I have my red (power) wires from my accessories connected to the different terminals on the adjacent side of the terminal bar. Switch 1 of my SP is connected to terminal 1, I then have my ditch light power wire connected to terminal 1 on the opposite side of the bar, and I have my negative from my lights connected to the bus bar. Because the bus bar is grounded, my lights are now completing the cycle ( just like if i had my light's power wire directly connected to switch 1's Brown wire and my lights negative connected to the frame of the truck.) Now let's say I want to add a light bar on my truck but want the light bar to be switch 1 instead of my ditch lights. Rather than cutting the brown wire (SP's channel 1 power wire)connected directly to my red (power) wire of my ditch lights and stripping some more wire off so I can splice it to the red (power) wire of my light bar, I simply just unscrew the ditch light's red (power) wire from the terminal bar and move it to idk, terminal 3 where I have my SPs ORANGE power wire connected (because that would be switch 3 on the SP) and now my ditch lights are on switch 3 and my light bar is now on switch 1. The beauty of the bus bar ( grounding bar) is I dont need to rearange the position of those connections because there are no terminals on the bus bar. It's all one "terminal" that simply acts as a ground. So now I can easily move and add accessories to my terminal bar without cutting down wires from my SP. Let me know if that all makes sense or if you need me to break it down more. I was confused for the longest time until I actually did it and then it finally clicked for me.
Now we know why I have the bus bar and terminal bar. Why the breaker and fuse block since these also arent needed for the install? The fuse block is simply an additional spot that is connected to a power source and a ground that allows me to connect even MORE accessories. These are accessories that I need power to but A) dont want to have a nest of wires going to the positive and negative terminals of my battery and B) cant connect or dont want to connect to my SP because all of the switches are now used OR it doesnt really make sense to connect to a switch. Case in point, if I had a fridge in the back that I wanted to keep powered when the car is on, I COULD run the wires directly to the car battery adding to even MORE of a mess of wires OR I could connect it to one of the spots on my fuse block (as long as the fuse in my fuse block can handle that fridge) Another example would be a CB or GMRS radio. I want my GMRS radio to be constantly powered even when the truck is off so I could either wire it directly to my car battery OR wire it to my fuse block that is connected to my mount tray that has everything connected to my car battery. It makes sense to wire it to my fuse block right? And I wouldnt want to wire my switch pro to my radio because my radio has an on/off button on it, so I dont need a switch to give it power or no power. Let me know if this all makes sense.
Lastly, the breaker. That is basically there just to protect my switch pro and fuse block from surges. The switch pro already has a "breaker" where if it detects too much power is being used, it will turn off a device as to not cause damage but the additional breaker is there to protect it since I also have more accessories plugged into the fuse block.
Hopefully I explained this all clearly. Hit me up if you still have questions and I'll write back. Like I said, it was confusing for me too for awhile and I spent a LOT of time researching it all but once I had it all connected and saw how each device gets power, it made a lot more sense.
Appreciate all that detail. Makes perfect sense and love the setup!
@@robertacosta9809 Thanks! Appreciate it! Glad the video helped!
Lol he drank the cool aid
nice install vid! got one for my GX with the dual ARB option. and it's clean AF! good content man
Sick!! Yeah I love my SP and my twin ARB compressor! Definitely a must have for offroading!
This was really helpful. Thanks for making this!
Awesome! Happy to hear it was helpful!!
Why did you mount the fuse block when you said you were mounting you accessories to the terminal blocks? I’m sure it has been quite sometime now that you did the install and you realised you needed to connect your accessories to your fuse block…..
Just a question? That hole in front of the wiring harness, why did you run your harness wires through this and out the hole in front of the terminal block? I would have kept all the harness wire together with heat and techflex until in front of the terminal block. I would have secured the whole harness bundle of wires with a nylon wire clip from underneath the power tray because of the necessity to cut as little wire off the harness. Also, I would use color matching heat shrink to match the wire color or labeled heat shrink. Just some food for thought in the future.
add a fuse or whatever, you should have just terminated to the 2 lines, soldier is not better then splice or terminals, also the large plate the long oval holes at several spots are so you run the wires down and up from device to device and only connections are seen from top. Cutting short might look cool but a service loop is always a smart idea. if you are interested i can send you some details. [From 40+ years of systems inagrations, design and consulting ]
This question may show my own ignorance to the topic, but I don't understand why you would need to use the bus bar with a fuse block?
Hey there! Thanks for the comment! So this set up has a lot of optional additional equipment added to it. Technically, you are right that I don't need a bus bar. Technically, I dont need the fuse block either. I could/should just wire all of the positive wires from my accessories straight to the switchpro harness itself, and then ground all the negatives to the negative terminal of the battery or ground it somewhere to the truck.
The reason I have the bus bar is because I want to keep the fuse block separate. The switch pro harness wires are all connected to the terminal block so in order for that to power and function my accessories, I need to wire the positive of my accessories to the other side of the terminal block (essentially think of it like butt splicing them together). Now that my positives are connected, I need to ground my accessories which is where the bus bar comes in. The bus bar is all grounded so I could attach the negative of my accessories to ANY spot on the bus bar to ground it. As long as the negative of my accessory is connected somewhere on my bus bar, I've completed the circuit circle and will now have power.
The reason I have the Fuse block is for the additional accessories that I DONT want connected to my switchpro but I DO want constant power to. My fuse block is constantly "hot" because there is no switch telling it to turn on or off. So this is where I wired things like my GMRS Radio or my Fridge. I want those devices to always have power and the actual switch that I use to turn them on and off would be on the radio itself or on the fridge itself. But those accessories always are powered.
Hope that helps! Let me know if I can clarify anything else!
any chance you could do a video explaining how you wired in you dual compressor to the switch pro. Did you need to purchase a separate harness and are you running lockers?
Good,clean video, I wish you put the links to buy all this items . Thanks
Thanks! Glad you liked it! And thank you for reminding me! I added links in the description on where I bought everything! Derek at SDOFFROADMT will be able to make a custom package for you with a Switch Pro, Blue Sea accessories, and Mount Tray, depending on your needs. There's also SDHQ and Cali Raised Off Road but you'll have to buy things individually which could cost more in the long run. Best of luck!
Good deal ,thanks sir
Outstanding video, well done man.
Thank you Brandon! Much appreciated!
Very clean build. Not sure if you mentioned it, but is the mounting tray custom built for the components you put on it?
Thanks! I appreciate it! So I originally bought the tray that came with the Switch Pro package from SDHQ but then I ended up swapping it with a different tray from a company called SDOffroadMT. You can hit them up on instagram if you're interested in getting the tray I used.
Question. Did you connect the negative wire to the battery or did you use it as ground. PLEASE HELP
The wire that comes from the power module. You said you connected it to the truck, so I'm confused as to if you grounded or went to the battery. Sorry. Haha
@@rob4f258 Hey Rob! The negative wire that comes from the Power Module (pin 11 from the 16 pin harness) is wired to my bus bar and my bus bar is then grounded to a frame ground stud on the inside of the truck.
Hope that helps! Let me know if you need anything else!
I have a question, being new to vehicle modding and working with electrical items I was curious....You have an 8 switch panel on the SP9100, why did you get a 6 fuse box for the MT? Wouldn't you want at least 8 to cover all your switches?
This was the route I planned to go with my 2016 and I am glad I found you page because I do like the MT board better than the Powertray. Thanks in advance!
Yes! The MT from SDOFFROADMT was a game changer! Definitely glad to have that in the engine bay and installing it was super easy!
And great question Jim! So technically you don't need the Blue Sea 6 fuse box if you don't want it. I have all of my main accessories (aka all of my lights with the exception of my air compressor) wired to my SP9100. Obviosuly, this allows me to turn on or off any accessory wired to my SP9100 by just pressing a button on the panel. The reason for the fuse box that I have also wired and mounted to my mount tray is for the other accessories that I dont necessarily need a button or switch to turn on. The accessories that are wired to the fuse box have constant power going to and from them and are "always" on. A great example would be my Midland GMRS radio. I wired that to my fuse box (rather than directly to my battery) to A) help prevent any surges that could damage the radio and would instead just blow a fuse but also B) because I want the radio always hot so I can have the truck turned off but still supplying power to my radio which I can turn on and off via the power button on the walkie part of the radio. Another accessory that you might want always hot but not directly connected to the car battery could be a fridge or maybe some lights in the bed that you'd rather control from the back rather than inside the cab. I hope that answered your question! Let me know if you have any other questions!
Why is he using a fuse box at all??? The switch pro has built in fuses!
@@dattran6372 Lol read the comments above bud! It explains why I have the fuse box. It's not for the switch pro, its for additional accessories that arent mounted to the SP. The fuse box is just mounted to the same tray that my SP is mounted to
Thanks bro..this helped 👍🏾👍🏾
Awesome! Glad to hear man!
Where did you get the cable sleeve? Thank you
I bought a few different sizes on amazon. You can get plastic wire loom that is a harder, more protective material, or go with what I went with and bought expandable braided wire sleeving. It's a little harder to feed the wires through at times but looks better IMO.
You can put in everything car?
New to all of this. If i were installing instead the RCR-Force-12, what size bus bar, terminal blocks, and breaker would i need? Apologies for my ignorance
Hey Matthew! Great question! First off, let me start off with saying, TECHNICALLY, you dont need ANY of those items if you don't want them. Switch Pros actually recommends wiring your accessories (lights, horns, compressor, etc) directly to the provided wiring harness that will plug into the power module of the Switch Pro. They recommend this because it eliminates the possibility of water damage to the device since the wires are heat shrunk directly together. By doing it the way I did it, there is the possibility of corrosion or water damage to the wires via the open bus bar and terminal block.
The reason that I did it this way instead of connecting my accessories directly to the SP wire harness is because I wanted to be able to easily move around or remove accessories without having to cut the heatshrunk wiring. I can easily unscrew a wire from one slot of the terminal block and move that accessory to a different slot, therefore moving what swich that accessory is connected to. I can also easily ADD additional accessories to a switch without needing to tap into the wiring harness by simply connecting that additional accessory to the specific terminal of the terminal block.
Also, one thing to note in case it wasn't clear in my video, the terminal block is what you connect your Switch pro wires and your POSITIVE accessory wires to and the bus bar is used to connect your NEGATIVE wires of your accessory to. The reason for that is the Terminal block has the small plastic tabs in between each terminal to keep seperate the different connections where the bus bar does not have the plastic tabs seperating the connections but that is ok because it's essentially just there to ground the negative wires.
Now that I got all that out there lol, if you are still wanting to do your install the way I did it, since you have a 12 switch panel, you'll want a bus bar and terminal block with at least 12 terminals. One terminal per switch. For example, you would connect the first wire of your SP to terminal 1 on one side of the terminal block, connect your positive of your accessory to the opposite side of the terminal block on terminal 1, and connect your negative of the accessory to terminal 1 of the bus bar. You would do this for all your different switches and accessories. Terminal 2 would be connected to a switch from your SP and your second accessory would be connected to terminal 2 on the other side of the terminal block. The second accesorrie's negative would be connected to the 2nd terminal of the bus bar and so on. **One thing to note though, make sure to check your switch pros wiring harness in the instructions because for the SP9100, the second wire is ACTUALLY for the 3rd switch on the switch panel and the 9th wire (1st wire on the second row) is actually for the second switch on the switch panel.
As for the breaker, that is not connected to the switch pros in any way and only serves the purpose of connecting additional accessories that I don't want or need connected to my SP. For example, I have a Midland GMRS radio that I want constant power to and since I turn it on and off via the button on the radio, I wouldnt want it connected to the switch pro as thats just wasting a switch. I could wire it directly to the battery but then I'll start to have a BUNCH of wires coming off the battery terminals. Instead, I added a fuse block that is connected to the bus bar (grounded) and to the positive of the battery terminal. That way I can add accessories to the fuse block that will always have power and be grounded at the same time.
I know thats a LOT of information so if you're still confused or have more questions, let me know and I'll try and explain better! Hope it helps and good luck on your install!
What is the fuse block for? what do you have wired to the fuse block?
Nevermind I see the answer below in another question. Thank you! Great video!!
@@svenwadensten7037 No prob! Let me know if you have any other questions!
What's the point of the fuse panel? The 9100 handles everything
Hey Nick, yes, you are correct that the 9100 handles everything that is connected to it. The fuse panel is for other accessories that I want to have power to that isn't powered by the Switch Pro. I just installed the fuse panel on the mounting tray for organization and to keep everything powered together.
I have my Midland MXT575 GMRS radio and will soon have my Dometic fridge connected to the fuse panel. It makes no sense to wire those devices to the 9100 as I dont need to waste a switch for those devices. The midland is powered on with the handheld radio but I want constant power to that device so rather than wiring it directly to the battery, I have it connected to the fuse panel which is then connected to the battery. Same would go for the fridge. Rather than having a bundle of wires all connected to the battery, the additional accessories are wired to the fuse panel. The only thing NOT wired to the fuse panel and is directly wired to the battery is my winch. Hope that answered your question!
@@HorizonBoundreat vid, and I mean no offense but the wiring is incorrect. Technically you are “ok” but really you should have one 120A breaker for the switch pro (if you exceed 85% total load per their FAQ) and one for the fuses block. Personally I see the fuse block as useless but I only run lights and compressor and generally the reason the switch pro is expensive is because it has solid state relays and over current protection built in. It’s really well built. You can run you radio too directly from the switch pro.
@@5280Recreation No offense at all! I'm still learning with all of this so I appreciate the comment! Just to clarify, I noticed you said 120A breaker and not fuse. I currently have a 120A fuse on my positive battery terminal that is then wired to my 100A breaker. From the breaker, I then have the switch pro and my fuse block being powered. If the 120A fuse blows, it wouldn't be sending any power to the circuit breaker, SP or fuse block. Are you suggesting that rather than having the fuse block connected to the circuit breaker along witht the SP, I should wire the fuse block to its own 120A fuse on the battery terminal or a 120 breaker between the battery and the fuse block? That way the SP is protected by its own 120A fuse and the fuse block is protected by its own 120A fuse? I always wondered if the 100A breaker was needed since I have the 120A fuse at the battery terminal but kept it there just as extra protection even though I know the SP has it's own relays to protect it from being damaged.
As for running the radio via my SP instead of via my fuse block, that would require wiring it to a SP switch wouldn't it? I didn't want to have it set up that way because I didnt want to have to hit a switch every time I wanted power to my radio. By having it on my fuse block which has constant power, that means that my radio is always powered and I can therefore just turn it on and off via the button on my radio.
Thanks for the comment and reaching out. I learn most of this from hours and hours watching youtube and reading forums so your input is greatly appreciated!
@@HorizonBound I’m glad, I was worried I would offend you. It’s not you, the marketing and internet is confusing things. Think of the switch pro and fuse block as two SEPARATE systems. It’s confusing as hell because you bought it as a kit but they aren’t all related. The Blue Sea fuse block if maxed out will draw ~100A and that is why you have the breaker. It is to protect your battery and other systems if the fuse block pulls too much current. The switch pro, as a separate system, can draw 125A if all switches are maxed out. But you don’t really need a breaker as the Switch pro has solid state current protection. You could add a 120A breaker or fuse if you wanted but it isn’t needed generally and for sure not in your setup. If you thought you did, call them or read their FAQ where they specifically address this. Your current setup of circuit breaker and fuse on the same line (series) means that wire can only carry up to 100A before the fuse pops. This is not good. Remember circuit breakers and fuses perform the same general function, without getting off into the weeds why you might choose one over the other. You don’t want this in your setup. The 120A fuse could power the switch pro if you wanted or you could remove it and tie the switch pro directly to the battery. Either way the fuse block should be powered by itself through the 100A breaker. As for the CB yea you’d have to configure a switch and make it live on battery and you could make it be on my default. IMHO this is better as the switch pro has low voltage detection so if the battery drops below X volts it turns off. In my Jeep I’ve been burned by leaving my CB on more than once and it sucks. Hope that clears some of this stuff up.
@@5280Recreation This is all great information, thanks! And you're absolutely right about the 120A fuse not being shown in the video. I must have added that when adding my winch (stay tuned for that video in the future lol) So going off of this great info, I'll take the Switch Pro off of the 100A breaker and wire it straight to my positive battery terminal. The fuse block I'll leave connected to the 100A breaker and that will also be wired to the positive battery terminal. This will then have both systems seperated as well as protected. Fuse block protected by the 100A breaker and SP protected by its internal solid state relays.
And you make a good point about wiring the radio to a switch. It's a loss of a switch but it is nice that the SP turns off everything if the battery drops below a certain voltage. Luckily, I've never drained a battery but I'm guilty of accidentally leaving my radio on as well.
Thanks again for all the great info and for clearing things up! Much appreciated!
i understand the breaker which is redundant but wtf is the purpose of the blue sea fuse box?
I have a question. Is there a way to install all lights to a switch then have them activated individually when needed and ALSO all of them simultaneously when needed?
I am asking because I want to be able to use my lights individually, but if the time comes that I am in a VERY DARK AREA I want to be able to turn on my lights all at the same time with one switch? I hope someone can understand what I am trying to say here.
@@13SemperFi37 Hey Carlos! So if I'm understanding you correclty, my answer would be yes its possible, but IMO not really practical OR at least it would require a lot of wiring / programming to happen. Usually you would have one light per each switch but if you wanted to wire two, three, or more lights to one switch, that is possible but when you turn off that switch, all of those lights would go off. Theoretically, you could wire a switch that would control a bunch of individual switches so when you hit that main switch (provided all of the switches are turned on for the secondary switches, you could turn on and off all lights from one switch. To create an example, lets say I have a main switch that is wired to a switcher panel with three switches. Switch 1 controls ditch lights, switch 2 controls a bumper light bar, and switch 3 controls the chase lights. I then want the main switch to control those three switches on that switch panel PLUS a lightbar on the roof. Theoretically, I could turn on the main switch to power on the roof light bar AND that would also send power to the switch panel and provided all of those switches on the switch panel are on, it would power on all those lights as well. If i wanted to turn off the three switches on the switch panel, I would just turn off the switch panel leaving the roof light bar on.
The only reason I wouldnt want to do something like this is because it could cause a huge power surge where all lights are drawing large amounts of power at one time. If you did do a set up like this, I would install some sort of breaker to prevent overloading.
@@HorizonBound ok. Thank you! I was thinking I would need a breaker. I was wondering incase I needed all lights for an emergency situation. I appreciate your help on this.
Could you make a video on connecting accessories?
Definitely! Thats a great idea!
@@HorizonBound I saw the video you put out on the chase lights, but I would love watching some more accessories getting hooked up. Maybe some ditch lights?
@@ItsHughJanis Absolutely! I'll show how to wire each device to the Switch Pro as well as how to control and program them in the app
Did you ever hook up the trigger wire you left under the door floor panel?
Thanks for the reminder! I havent yet actually! I'm still trying to figure out what I should use it for! I've done quite a few more mods since this video that I'm still editing but long story short, I'm trying to decide if I should use the trigger wire as a high beam function for my LP6 light bar, or if I should use it as a trigger for my reverse lights and chase lights.
What are you using yours for?
Haha, I literally just did what you did…. Down to the T using your video as a tutorial. Love your vids. So im not sure what im gonna use it for either. Keep the vids coming! You were also 100% correct about derek. Super cool guy to buy from.
@@joeybuley1086 awesome! Glad to hear man! I have a BUNCH of videos that are shot, I just need to sit down and edit them all so be on the lookout for more uploads soon! And yea Derek is great! Definitely glad I bought from him. Whats your instagram handle? I'll have to check out your build!
It’s just my name. Joeybuley I don’t have a lot of photos posted. I need to post some soon tho.
What exactly is a trigger wire and how is it used?
Do they make this tray compatible with manual trans tacomas? The mount for fender is where the clutch fluid Reservoir is located on the manual trans tacomas!
This is crazy. The Auxbeam 8 System is easier and cleaner of a install. I have not researched the cost of the Switch Pro yet, but watching the install convinces me that the Auxbeam is the better way to go. Lastly the Auxbeam Control is Remote Controlled and with the added AI Box you can put the Switch Controller on your Factory Display.
This video is perfect
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!!
Hey bro. I love your content. What did you end up doing with the taller switch that was in the way?
Thanks for sharing. Very precise.
No prob! Glad you enjoyed it!
What’s your thoughts on the Garmin power switch?
Hey Chris! I unfortunately don't know anything really about the Garmin power switch. From just a quick google search, it looks to be pretty similar to the Switch Pro in the sense that you can power different switches from a panel or bluetooth device. I know there are a few different options out there that all do roughly the same thing. My buddy has the Rough Country switch and minus a few small features, it does pretty much what the Switch Pro does.
@@HorizonBound yeah I’ve heard pros and cons for both. The Garmin takes less wiring and such but you need that 1200 Garmin tread screen I like the simplicity factor of the switch pro. Blaze Offroad also offers full prewired setups which is nice
@@AFGixxeR88 Yeah it definitely has a lot of wiring to do but honestly, it wasnt too difficult looking back at it. More overwhelming then anything. That's pretty sick about Blaze Offroad. I've heard goood things about them.
Just a question? That hole in front of the wiring harness, why did you run your harness wires through this and out the hole in front of the terminal block? I would have kept all the harness wire together with heat and techflex until in front of the terminal block. I would have secured the whole harness bundle of wires with a nylon wire clip from underneath the power tray because of the necessity to cut as little wire off the harness. Also, I would use color matching heat shrink to match the wire color or labeled heat shrink. Just some food for thought in the future.
Thanks dude!
All for a cool $1200!
$600 ? Yikes
Yeah, it was on the more expensive side but more affordable than an S POD and more functions and higher working amps then the cheaper Amazon ones. I use the bluetooth feature a lot to control lights via my phone and I like how there are four 35A switches and four 20A switches. But yeah, I feel ya on the price.