Straight to the point! I appreciate the information shared here. My AC still blows hot air. I tried the diagnostics sequence, it worked but I got no flashes at all. The system was telling me all is well lol
Thanks for the info and link. A/C was blowing through defrost. The diagnosic process gave open or short in mode control circuit. I did it the second time and it's working properly. Of I hadn't seen this I would have been testing the blend door motor then tested the circuit. I appreciate the information. Thanks again!
Worked to fix my cold-air-only situation, but read my steps: Previously I had proper heat and AC, but my vents would not change where they would blow. It would blow to the floor no matter which button I picked, including defrost. To fix it I used to whap the device with the green plug with a hammer. That would restore service for about a year. But NOW I have an issue of no heat - I was just getting cold air. I was skeptical that this video was addressing vent direction and not air temperature, but I was wrong. The trick does work, but unlike the video, unplugging and replugging with the car OFF did not work for me. So I tried it a second time with the car running, with the blower on high, and the heat to max and it DID WORK INSTANTLY! The cold air turned hot right away. Keep in mind I did this repair after driving around a bit so my engine was warm and able to provide engine heat to the heater unit so I could tell if any of my attempts to fix were successful. Thank you Danny Jensen!
@@dannyjensen4954 Glad to be of help! Followup: My vents acted up again, despite my heat now working properly. I did a little more research and I discovered that for the 2011CRV, the air direction device is behind the glove compartment, towards the center! (The devices are very similar looking.) All this time I have been whacking on the heat controller (near the gas pedal) thinking it was the vent direction controller! Apparently, the vibration from hitting the wrong spot must have been enough to get the vents swinging again. I whacked the proper device this time, and did the unplug/ replug trick. I also re-removed the green plugs on BOTH controllers and I applied a bit of silicone grease to the pins in the sockets with a Q tip to overcome oxidation/ corrosion. People often do this when inserting light bulbs too. Vaseline would work as well. So now both my heat AND my vent direction are working properly. Just in time for winter!
@@k.g.442 I had an air mix issue that was acting intermittently. I bought the expensive air mix actuator motor and I bench tested the motor and the original motor was working. I don't think I have wiring issues. Here is a video I did showing how I tested the motor ua-cam.com/video/OJ4pTzUDskA/v-deo.html . Next, the only thing left was the climate control (CCU) unit so I ordered the CC unit on Ebay and replaced the CC unit and the blend issue all cold went away! Here is a video on the CCU ua-cam.com/video/inOAfpztOgQ/v-deo.html .
Thank the lord for this comment, I took years off my life replacing the thermostat only to have this not fix the problem, and saw this magic green connector mentioned in a forum thread, but unplugging/replugging didn't work for me. Your tip to do this while the car was RUNNING did the trick.
this helped me greatly .ty i didn't drive the vehicle as you said, but following your procedure fixed the actuator, it started working! re-set it again and no #2 code this time! Awesome i think its fixed? i'll warm it up and see. ty again. great out of the box thinking.
Thanks for sharing! I'm going to try on 2009 Honda Pilot. The "Center" AC vents in the front don't blow anything anymore. All other vents works and blows. Thanks!
time 1:55 in the video only shows 9 blinks. I don't know about 10 blinks. Check the description and see if you can find the manual I was looking at. It would be good if you could post your symptoms for everyone and let us know how you fixed your problem. Thanks. Danny
I just bought a 2009 CRV, and tried to use the A/C, it was blowing hot air on a hot day. I tried your procedure and started blowing cold air, no flashing lights. its been working fine for two days. I wonder why wasn't it working before? Great video
I have gotten a few comments like yours! My guess is that the self test may do some calibration to fix the problem (at least for a short time). The system reads voltages from the actuator motor while doing a full open and close of the vent. Perhaps it remembers and adjusts values? Or the act of running the self tests fixes some mechanical issue in the motor? Thanks for your comment and if you find anything else please post it.
I did the self test and it flash 4 times, so i test it, replaced it and walaaa…. Fixed thanks 2 you n you video and guess what??? A new subscriber you have. HAPPY HOLIDAYS 👍🏼
No blinks when I ran the test on my 2010. Tapped the actuator motor a bunch and unplugged/replugged green clip. Actuator moves and is functioning when I move from hot to cold air and back again. My radiator was replaced a week ago because of a leak but that didn’t solve the problem. Still getting only cold air from passenger vents even though driver’s side blows warm. Any ideas?
Thanks for posting. You are the first to report this symptom! Good job on the trouble shooting. I think you need to take the car back to your radiator guy and perhaps you have an air bubble in the heating system preventing water flow to the heating element inside the firewall. Not sure because maybe only one heating element not 2. Also you may need to look at the shop manual.
One other thing that's a possibility to look for is a damaged plastic gear or linkage between the actuator and door. Or a misalignment between the door and actuator gears. That was the case on my CRV the gears were slightly out of alignment. Must have been installed wrong from the factory I guess or possibly slipped on its own.
Could you see this easily when looking at the blend door when turning the hot cold knob? I did a bench test of the motor. I suspect I could have found the issue by doing that?
@@dannyjensen4954 No it's not easy to diagnose that way because the motor initially goes to the proper position however it's not strong enough to keep it there as road vibration causes the gear to move. This is why the self-test is passing. The test is a few seconds and the car is not moving. I notice the problem while driving, when I first set the temp both sides are about the same heat. Then after a minute or so with road bumps the passenger side gets noticeably cooler. I can only attribute this to the actuator motor being weak. I ordered a replacement today. Once I do the swap, I'll bench test the old part to see if the resistance is within spec.
@@dannyjensen4954 So I completed the blend door repair today. (I got delayed as I also had to urgently replace my radiator which was leaking). So I bench tested the old actuator and it was entirely within spec (1V on Lo, 4V on High and 6.5 ohms on the pins). Interestingly the new actuator resistance was borderline high at 7.8 ohms. Anyway after the swap I drove it around and the heat stayed constant the entire time. I don't know why the old actuator couldn't maintain the proper heat mix for more than a few minutes. Just weak I guess - but there was no test I could do to prove it was bad other than replace it. Also learned the hard way not to run the blower with the power transistor pulled out of the air duct. It's air cooled and will blow the thermal fuse if it doesn't have forced air over it. I had to take it out of the duct in order to reach the blend door screws.
@@dannyjensen4954 I took the actuator apart and found what the problem was. It's not that the motor was weak. There is a position sensor inside. It feeds info back to the computer to let it know how much the blend door is open. That sensor was worn out so it was sending bad data back to the computer. When that happens the computer just opens the door to lo heat by default. When you bench test the resistance on these it is actually the position sensor you are reading - not the motor. The problem is that the position sensor could develop drop-outs at certain areas in it's range and just reading the resistance at one fixed spot is not sufficient.
Click on link in description. Go to error DTC 4 description in doc and show it to your mechanic / auto electrical guy or access the mode actuator motor yourself / look up other UA-cam videos with mode errors.
I’m not sure. I’m the voltage from the blend door actuator is communicated to the control unit. Maybe look at this video make small adjustments in hot cold and see if the actuator moves? ua-cam.com/video/VLf8Oz-JsRY/v-deo.html
@@dannyjensen4954 Thanks. According to the docs the self-test should even detect a problem with the actuator linkage or a stuck door. Not sure how they can determine that unless there is some kind of motion sensor on the door itself. I ran the selftest yesterday and it passed. It's not a major problem as I can get heat on the passenger side if I turn that side up high. The passenger side actuator is a bit more involved since you need to take out the glove box to see it.
It was actually an issue with the climate control unit. I bought a new servo but it did not fix the problem. I made a few other videos on this topic. Thanks for your comment.
I have the same fault. The 2 flashes. What fixed yours? What did you replace? What part? My problem is that is stuck on the cool air and doesn’t change to hot when I turn it to hot. It is stuck on the cool setting. The exact same problem as yours. The ac works but no heat. Thanks
I fixed mine replacing the climate control (I think). The blend actuator motor was good. My problem was intermittent. In the video, I just showed and example where I disconnect the blend door actuator to show you and example of a fault condition. I found this after I did a trial and error suffering.
I'm having issue with my recirculating switch/actuator.... I noticed it this summer as the car wasn't as cold as it once was. Usually when I activate the air recirculation button, the blower sounds louder. Now when I use it, there is no sound change making me think that the recirculation door is not closing. Any suggestions?
Go to this link I placed in the description. www.hcrv.net/dtc_troubleshooting-1869.html . Look for this ... DTC indicator 5: A Problem in the Mode Control Linkage, Doors, or Motor Circuit Look at this really good video on how to access the door. ua-cam.com/video/WDmCKGj5OCY/v-deo.htmlsi=UcpGy8gxPwU_buX2 .
Hi I had 4 flashes on my 2009 Honda CRV. I checked online but for the life of me could not find where they sell that motor and where it is located in my car. Someone commented on how inexpensive it was but can you please reply with a link so I can purchase this? And if you have a diagram on where this is located, I would greatly appreciate it. Just an old person trying to fix my car😢 Thank you!
Not that simple. Look at my trouble shooting video. You may be able to fix it. Part number is in my other videos you can search on line or order climate control on eBay. This is a deep dive into DIY auto repair. Look at more videos! Sorry for the bad news. Maybe go to auto electric shop and show the guy my video before you start ordering parts.
hey danny, how you doing, you know what, i was trying to follow the process to get my ac working, but mine is a CRV 2010, so it didn´t work, and now i´m having issues to start on the engine, i highly appreciate your soonest help so i can have the car working again...
This is beyond the scope of my knowledge. I am a owner of this car and often seek professional help or watch do Google searches to help me fix problems. Thanks for your comment.
Hi I have a automatic climate control for a 2008 crv - wont power up. Pulled and have power on pin 6 and 29 and ground pin 25. Opened panel and tried 12V to pin 29/25 nothing. No continuity between 29/25 - IS this a bad panel?
Sorry. I don't have the automatic CC. The nice thing on mine is no computer so you could just buy a module on ebay and give it a shot after you rule out the basic fuse issues.
checked motor blowerfan is good, cold switching and warm switching works I can feel it air changing temperature next to the fan...but air is still not blowing from the fans - 2010 honda crv ex >>> I get 4 flashes/blinks
@@dannyjensen4954 : I tried everything, and nothing seem to work, finally I lowered dropped glove-box and touched hvac mode door actuator while changing air flow modes. It seems that grease that was there dried and actuator got stock between modes. I cleaned and applied fresh grease. So far so good, hopefully I won't have to take apart or replace actuator anytime soon.
I did the test and got 4 blinks. Short in motor. I bought and plugged in a new motor, turned on power and it spun around twice and stoped. I then installed the motor in the car. Now it won't turn or move the vents. Also the test by pushing the two buttons does not work now. Recirculation will blink twice but then nothing happens. No test fan comes on, nothing. Any clue What happened. Did I mess it up by attaching and energizing power before it was installed?
With motor installed, Unplug the connector from the motor and you should get the number of blinks in the video. Then plug the motor in and see if you get the same results you describe. If,so watch my other videos on blend door and inspect motor installation/alignment.
I have a question: The buttons look different in 2008 model and as @gfriedman99 said, it has another way to do the self check.But what does it mean if Dual button blinks and after the self check it turns off and comes back after few days? It happens only when it's freezing cold outside (Or maybe only when the air condition is switched to Hi, but it takes few days to turn on again). Thanks for the good video 🙂
I have this same issue.on my 2009...2 flashes. Can you tell me where to find this air mix control to replace it? Is it the same thing as a blend door actuator? Also what manual is that on your tablet? Thanks!
I have a Honda CR-V 2010. The fan runs and heater works but no air from the 2 dashboard vents. But hot air comes out of the bottom vents. When I change the mode to Only FACE, still I receive air from bottom vents and not in front 2 dashboard vents. Could you pls suggest what could be the problem.
Does this work/ is for if your car has cold AC but turns hot after 10 minutes or so of driving? I believe my problem is temperature related, when it’s cool outside the air will blow cold all day but if I drive around while it’s 80+ degrees outside, after 10 minutes it goes hot. I took it to a shop and no codes came up, there are no leaks and they recharged it. Thanks!!
A problem with the air mix linkage. See video 3 flashes. Intermittent maybe? See the video I have where I turn the mix knob and test the blend door actuator movement. Look above the gas pedal for the motor and turn the mix back and forth when no problem and when you have a problem. Let us know what you find. Thanks for this info.
I’d not heard about the self diagnostic function. This is a great video thanks so much. My issue is blowing ambient air temp when AC in on. . It did this before and my brother in law changed the cabin filter and it started working. I checked the cabin filter and it was like new and didn’t have any effect. Any ideas on the subject will be greatly appreciated.
Hey so did it exactly like you said once I released the button the air circulation flashes 3 times & the ac turned green , front window vent circulation & then front face circulation and that’s it Mind you it flashed first in your video it flashed after it went threw the test what can this be smh
I fixed the problem and it tested okay. I didn't have he mix motor working when I did my test. For you, look at the video at 1:51. 3 flashes = linkage or motor circuit. I have other videos you may want to look at to remove and test your blend door actuator. This could be your problem or maybe you need to lube the plastic linkage. Also look at the blend door actuator when turning the knob like I did in one of my videos.
AC stopped working this summer and now we have no heat. I performed this test and had no errors. The test played out just the same as your video. Can you suggest a next step? Thanks for your informative videos.
Chech this video out ua-cam.com/video/VLf8Oz-JsRY/v-deo.htmlsi=OibMu5J3RcTMwb6e Look to see if the blend door actuator motor is opening and closing when you turn the knob. Look at the motor next to the gas pedal while turning the knob.
I was testing without and blend door actuator. I finally did install the actuator after positioning it and then I showed a no code. I have other videos on positioning and testing the actuator. Thank for your comment.
Check the doc i linked in the description: DTC indicator 2: A Short in the Air Mix Control Motor Circuit 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF and then ON (II). 2. Do the self-diagnostic with the HVAC control unit. 3. Check for DTCs. Is DTC 2 indicated? YES-Go to step 4. NO-Intermittent failure. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Disconnect the air mix control motor 7P connector. 6. Disconnect the HVAC control unit 28P connector. 7. Check for continuity between body ground and the HVAC control unit 28P connector terminals No.6 and No.8 individually. Honda CR-V. HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning)
Straight to the point! I appreciate the information shared here. My AC still blows hot air. I tried the diagnostics sequence, it worked but I got no flashes at all. The system was telling me all is well lol
Thanks for the info and link. A/C was blowing through defrost. The diagnosic process gave open or short in mode control circuit. I did it the second time and it's working properly. Of I hadn't seen this I would have been testing the blend door motor then tested the circuit. I appreciate the information. Thanks again!
Thanks for posting your issues to help others! Glad this helped.
I watch several videos and this is by far the most helpful one.
Thanks. This keeps me going.
Worked to fix my cold-air-only situation, but read my steps:
Previously I had proper heat and AC, but my vents would not change where they would blow. It would blow to the floor no matter which button I picked, including defrost. To fix it I used to whap the device with the green plug with a hammer. That would restore service for about a year.
But NOW I have an issue of no heat - I was just getting cold air. I was skeptical that this video was addressing vent direction and not air temperature, but I was wrong. The trick does work, but unlike the video, unplugging and replugging with the car OFF did not work for me. So I tried it a second time with the car running, with the blower on high, and the heat to max and it DID WORK INSTANTLY! The cold air turned hot right away. Keep in mind I did this repair after driving around a bit so my engine was warm and able to provide engine heat to the heater unit so I could tell if any of my attempts to fix were successful.
Thank you Danny Jensen!
Very helpful comment. Thanks for your contribution and helping others!
@@dannyjensen4954 Glad to be of help!
Followup:
My vents acted up again, despite my heat now working properly. I did a little more research and I discovered that for the 2011CRV, the air direction device is behind the glove compartment, towards the center! (The devices are very similar looking.) All this time I have been whacking on the heat controller (near the gas pedal) thinking it was the vent direction controller! Apparently, the vibration from hitting the wrong spot must have been enough to get the vents swinging again.
I whacked the proper device this time, and did the unplug/ replug trick. I also re-removed the green plugs on BOTH controllers and I applied a bit of silicone grease to the pins in the sockets with a Q tip to overcome oxidation/ corrosion. People often do this when inserting light bulbs too. Vaseline would work as well. So now both my heat AND my vent direction are working properly. Just in time for winter!
@@k.g.442 I had an air mix issue that was acting intermittently. I bought the expensive air mix actuator motor and I bench tested the motor and the original motor was working. I don't think I have wiring issues. Here is a video I did showing how I tested the motor ua-cam.com/video/OJ4pTzUDskA/v-deo.html . Next, the only thing left was the climate control (CCU) unit so I ordered the CC unit on Ebay and replaced the CC unit and the blend issue all cold went away! Here is a video on the CCU ua-cam.com/video/inOAfpztOgQ/v-deo.html .
Thank the lord for this comment, I took years off my life replacing the thermostat only to have this not fix the problem, and saw this magic green connector mentioned in a forum thread, but unplugging/replugging didn't work for me. Your tip to do this while the car was RUNNING did the trick.
this helped me greatly .ty i didn't drive the vehicle as you said, but following your procedure fixed the actuator, it started working! re-set it again and no #2 code this time! Awesome i think its fixed? i'll warm it up and see. ty again. great out of the box thinking.
Followed the instructions for my 09 CRV. Got two blinks. Thank you.
This just reset my a/c that was blowing hot air on one side. Thanks!
Super happy this helped.
If you have a model with climate control the self test can be enabled by turning the key to II then hold off/on and press rear defrost 5 times.
My hero.
The kid rocks!
I tried your way it worked no flashing light.
Thanks
Thanks for sharing!
I'm going to try on 2009 Honda Pilot.
The "Center" AC vents in the front don't blow anything anymore.
All other vents works and blows. Thanks!
Thank you for providing this troubleshooting test and the link to the Service Manual: all very helpful!
Glad it helped!
Thanks. It worked for my 07CRV. Ac is back on and working fine.
@@nileshpakhare9231 interesting … it fixed AC? Great feed back.
Thank you so much. This info helped me save so much time.
Where in the manual do you find the corresponding codes? Mine is flashing 4 times
Same
Great video, thanks. I’m getting 10 blinks, but can’t find what this means. Any ideas? TIA
time 1:55 in the video only shows 9 blinks. I don't know about 10 blinks. Check the description and see if you can find the manual I was looking at. It would be good if you could post your symptoms for everyone and let us know how you fixed your problem. Thanks. Danny
I tried this test but couldn’t get it to do the double flash and run diagnostics. My set up is a bit different as I have duel controls
Same!
Check out hcrv.net and look for help.
I was able to do it on my CRV by press and holding the off button and pressing the recirculate button 5 times!
I just bought a 2009 CRV, and tried to use the A/C, it was blowing hot air on a hot day. I tried your procedure and started blowing cold air, no flashing lights. its been working fine for two days. I wonder why wasn't it working before? Great video
I have gotten a few comments like yours! My guess is that the self test may do some calibration to fix the problem (at least for a short time). The system reads voltages from the actuator motor while doing a full open and close of the vent. Perhaps it remembers and adjusts values? Or the act of running the self tests fixes some mechanical issue in the motor? Thanks for your comment and if you find anything else please post it.
6 blinks, replaced blower resistor and checked all fuses and relays in document. Still no air, ideas?
Amazing it really worked for me👍🏼
Did you just run the self test and it fixed your air blend no hot air problem?
I did the self test and it flash 4 times, so i test it, replaced it and walaaa…. Fixed thanks 2 you n you video and guess what??? A new subscriber you have. HAPPY HOLIDAYS 👍🏼
@@josangel9405hey what part did you exactly replace? Mine is also blinking 4 times.?
No blinks when I ran the test on my 2010. Tapped the actuator motor a bunch and unplugged/replugged green clip. Actuator moves and is functioning when I move from hot to cold air and back again. My radiator was replaced a week ago because of a leak but that didn’t solve the problem. Still getting only cold air from passenger vents even though driver’s side blows warm. Any ideas?
Thanks for posting. You are the first to report this symptom! Good job on the trouble shooting. I think you need to take the car back to your radiator guy and perhaps you have an air bubble in the heating system preventing water flow to the heating element inside the firewall. Not sure because maybe only one heating element not 2. Also you may need to look at the shop manual.
Thanks a lot, i have my air condition again.
Add you did was run this test and it fixed your air conditioning?
Since its blowing just cold air do i do test on heat side of climate control?
One other thing that's a possibility to look for is a damaged plastic gear or linkage between the actuator and door. Or a misalignment between the door and actuator gears. That was the case on my CRV the gears were slightly out of alignment. Must have been installed wrong from the factory I guess or possibly slipped on its own.
Could you see this easily when looking at the blend door when turning the hot cold knob? I did a bench test of the motor. I suspect I could have found the issue by doing that?
@@dannyjensen4954 No it's not easy to diagnose that way because the motor initially goes to the proper position however it's not strong enough to keep it there as road vibration causes the gear to move. This is why the self-test is passing. The test is a few seconds and the car is not moving. I notice the problem while driving, when I first set the temp both sides are about the same heat. Then after a minute or so with road bumps the passenger side gets noticeably cooler. I can only attribute this to the actuator motor being weak. I ordered a replacement today. Once I do the swap, I'll bench test the old part to see if the resistance is within spec.
@@dannyjensen4954 So I completed the blend door repair today. (I got delayed as I also had to urgently replace my radiator which was leaking). So I bench tested the old actuator and it was entirely within spec (1V on Lo, 4V on High and 6.5 ohms on the pins). Interestingly the new actuator resistance was borderline high at 7.8 ohms. Anyway after the swap I drove it around and the heat stayed constant the entire time. I don't know why the old actuator couldn't maintain the proper heat mix for more than a few minutes. Just weak I guess - but there was no test I could do to prove it was bad other than replace it. Also learned the hard way not to run the blower with the power transistor pulled out of the air duct. It's air cooled and will blow the thermal fuse if it doesn't have forced air over it. I had to take it out of the duct in order to reach the blend door screws.
@@gfriedman99 Thanks for all the info and checking back in.
@@dannyjensen4954 I took the actuator apart and found what the problem was. It's not that the motor was weak. There is a position sensor inside. It feeds info back to the computer to let it know how much the blend door is open. That sensor was worn out so it was sending bad data back to the computer. When that happens the computer just opens the door to lo heat by default. When you bench test the resistance on these it is actually the position sensor you are reading - not the motor. The problem is that the position sensor could develop drop-outs at certain areas in it's range and just reading the resistance at one fixed spot is not sufficient.
I got the same problem and 2 blinks. What should I do?
I ran this diagnostic check on my CRV, it did not blink at all yet my AC still isn’t working. Any ideas what is wrong?
Go to an ac shop an have them test your compressor
So I have 4 flashes have been trying to trouble shoot but I don’t feel I am getting anywhere. Any suggestions
Click on link in description. Go to error DTC 4 description in doc and show it to your mechanic / auto electrical guy or access the mode actuator motor yourself / look up other UA-cam videos with mode errors.
Will the self test detect a partially working blend actuator? It works good on full heat but any temps below that are too cold.
I’m not sure. I’m the voltage from the blend door actuator is communicated to the control unit. Maybe look at this video make small adjustments in hot cold and see if the actuator moves? ua-cam.com/video/VLf8Oz-JsRY/v-deo.html
@@dannyjensen4954 Thanks. According to the docs the self-test should even detect a problem with the actuator linkage or a stuck door. Not sure how they can determine that unless there is some kind of motion sensor on the door itself. I ran the selftest yesterday and it passed. It's not a major problem as I can get heat on the passenger side if I turn that side up high. The passenger side actuator is a bit more involved since you need to take out the glove box to see it.
So how was the fault resolved? Did you replace the servo?
It was actually an issue with the climate control unit. I bought a new servo but it did not fix the problem. I made a few other videos on this topic. Thanks for your comment.
Dónde buscar el manual para la falla?
How to reset for crv 2016 with start stop button engine?
Try this link and ask your question. www.crvownersclub.com
Can i get the link for the service manual, please!
I have the same fault. The 2 flashes. What fixed yours? What did you replace? What part? My problem is that is stuck on the cool air and doesn’t change to hot when I turn it to hot. It is stuck on the cool setting. The exact same problem as yours. The ac works but no heat. Thanks
I fixed mine replacing the climate control (I think). The blend actuator motor was good. My problem was intermittent. In the video, I just showed and example where I disconnect the blend door actuator to show you and example of a fault condition. I found this after I did a trial and error suffering.
@@dannyjensen4954 Thank You very much for your response and help.
I'm having issue with my recirculating switch/actuator.... I noticed it this summer as the car wasn't as cold as it once was. Usually when I activate the air recirculation button, the blower sounds louder. Now when I use it, there is no sound change making me think that the recirculation door is not closing. Any suggestions?
Are your test results normal? If yes then I would take the care to an AC shop for further diagnosis / check your compressor etc.
Did this test and no blinking light. However my CRV still blows full hot. Ideas?
What happen if it flash 5 times? I need a fix for this
Go to this link I placed in the description. www.hcrv.net/dtc_troubleshooting-1869.html .
Look for this ... DTC indicator 5: A Problem in the Mode Control Linkage, Doors, or Motor Circuit
Look at this really good video on how to access the door. ua-cam.com/video/WDmCKGj5OCY/v-deo.htmlsi=UcpGy8gxPwU_buX2 .
I did a new video on this issue. ua-cam.com/video/dufiWKKKZFs/v-deo.htmlsi=NR71IrgrnGuG9oZa .
Dielectric grease on the green actuator connector solved my problem
Hi I had 4 flashes on my 2009 Honda CRV. I checked online but for the life of me could not find where they sell that motor and where it is located in my car. Someone commented on how inexpensive it was but can you please reply with a link so I can purchase this? And if you have a diagram on where this is located, I would greatly appreciate it. Just an old person trying to fix my car😢 Thank you!
Not that simple. Look at my trouble shooting video. You may be able to fix it. Part number is in my other videos you can search on line or order climate control on eBay. This is a deep dive into DIY auto repair. Look at more videos! Sorry for the bad news. Maybe go to auto electric shop and show the guy my video before you start ordering parts.
Thank you. I will definitely watch your video first.
hey danny, how you doing, you know what, i was trying to follow the process to get my ac working, but mine is a CRV 2010, so it didn´t work, and now i´m having issues to start on the engine, i highly appreciate your soonest help so i can have the car working again...
This is beyond the scope of my knowledge. I am a owner of this car and often seek professional help or watch do Google searches to help me fix problems. Thanks for your comment.
That's fine, at the end i could find a way for ac reset that had the cold air working back.
Mine flashed twice,do i need to change the air mix control circuit, ??
I have one more video where I show you where the air mix motor is located and you need to see if the motor moves the door when you move the mix knob.
When I run the diagnostic, both light don't flash but I still have no cold air. Do you have any suggestion?
Go to an AC shop and confirm your compressor is functioning properly.
Question for anyone: When I do the test, should both fans be running or just one?
I only have one fan that I know of. The actuators cause air flow and they are tested.
Hi I have a automatic climate control for a 2008 crv - wont power up. Pulled and have power on pin 6 and 29 and ground pin 25. Opened panel and tried 12V to pin 29/25 nothing. No continuity between 29/25 - IS this a bad panel?
Sorry. I don't have the automatic CC. The nice thing on mine is no computer so you could just buy a module on ebay and give it a shot after you rule out the basic fuse issues.
checked motor blowerfan is good, cold switching and warm switching works I can feel it air changing temperature next to the fan...but air is still not blowing from the fans - 2010 honda crv ex >>> I get 4 flashes/blinks
See link in video description section DTC indicator 4: An Open or Short in the Mode Control Motor Circuit .
@@dannyjensen4954 : I tried everything, and nothing seem to work, finally I lowered dropped glove-box and touched hvac mode door actuator while changing air flow modes. It seems that grease that was there dried and actuator got stock between modes. I cleaned and applied fresh grease. So far so good, hopefully I won't have to take apart or replace actuator anytime soon.
I did the test and got 4 blinks. Short in motor. I bought and plugged in a new motor, turned on power and it spun around twice and stoped. I then installed the motor in the car. Now it won't turn or move the vents. Also the test by pushing the two buttons does not work now. Recirculation will blink twice but then nothing happens. No test fan comes on, nothing. Any clue What happened. Did I mess it up by attaching and energizing power before it was installed?
With motor installed, Unplug the connector from the motor and you should get the number of blinks in the video. Then plug the motor in and see if you get the same results you describe. If,so watch my other videos on blend door and inspect motor installation/alignment.
I have a question:
The buttons look different in 2008 model and as @gfriedman99 said, it has another way to do the self check.But what does it mean if Dual button blinks and after the self check it turns off and comes back after few days? It happens only when it's freezing cold outside (Or maybe only when the air condition is switched to Hi, but it takes few days to turn on again).
Thanks for the good video 🙂
I have this same issue.on my 2009...2 flashes. Can you tell me where to find this air mix control to replace it? Is it the same thing as a blend door actuator? Also what manual is that on your tablet? Thanks!
I have a Honda CR-V 2010. The fan runs and heater works but no air from the 2 dashboard vents. But hot air comes out of the bottom vents. When I change the mode to Only FACE, still I receive air from bottom vents and not in front 2 dashboard vents.
Could you pls suggest what could be the problem.
How many flashes do you get when you run the diagnostic?
Does this work/ is for if your car has cold AC but turns hot after 10 minutes or so of driving? I believe my problem is temperature related, when it’s cool outside the air will blow cold all day but if I drive around while it’s 80+ degrees outside, after 10 minutes it goes hot. I took it to a shop and no codes came up, there are no leaks and they recharged it. Thanks!!
I tried the test and immediately after it flashed quick 3 times, then did not flash after. Do you know what this means? Thank you
A problem with the air mix linkage. See video 3 flashes. Intermittent maybe? See the video I have where I turn the mix knob and test the blend door actuator movement. Look above the gas pedal for the motor and turn the mix back and forth when no problem and when you have a problem. Let us know what you find. Thanks for this info.
@@victoriabreen7907 does the 3 flash error ever go away?
@@victoriabreen7907 Do you have a temperature setting on your climate control?
@@victoriabreen7907 Also start the car for the testing so AC will be working for test
Hey, what if it blinks 10 times?
No clue. What was your problem?
hello I have a problem the panel does not light you know what the problem is ?
Do all functions work otherwise? If so maybe led is not working?
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for your comment. It keeps me making video. Post anything you learn about your issue here in the comments.
I’d not heard about the self diagnostic function. This is a great video thanks so much. My issue is blowing ambient air temp when AC in on. . It did this before and my brother in law changed the cabin filter and it started working. I checked the cabin filter and it was like new and didn’t have any effect. Any ideas on the subject will be greatly appreciated.
Did you run the test with the engine running? What was the result?
Thank You!!!!!!! AC wouldn't work, blown 40 amp fuse
What was the indication on the test?
6 blinks
@@dannyjensen4954
Mine blinked 10 times. What’s that mean
I can’t find 10 only 9. See doc linked in description and recount?
@@dannyjensen4954 I thought I miscounted too so I tried 2 more times and still counted 10. Mine must be seriously broken lol
Hey so did it exactly like you said once I released the button the air circulation flashes 3 times & the ac turned green , front window vent circulation & then front face circulation and that’s it
Mind you it flashed first in your video it flashed after it went threw the test what can this be smh
I fixed the problem and it tested okay. I didn't have he mix motor working when I did my test. For you, look at the video at 1:51. 3 flashes = linkage or motor circuit. I have other videos you may want to look at to remove and test your blend door actuator. This could be your problem or maybe you need to lube the plastic linkage. Also look at the blend door actuator when turning the knob like I did in one of my videos.
Did you ever figure this out?my Pilot is doing the same thing... Just stops running the diagnosis after 2 settings
AC stopped working this summer and now we have no heat. I performed this test and had no errors. The test played out just the same as your video. Can you suggest a next step?
Thanks for your informative videos.
Chech this video out ua-cam.com/video/VLf8Oz-JsRY/v-deo.htmlsi=OibMu5J3RcTMwb6e
Look to see if the blend door actuator motor is opening and closing when you turn the knob. Look at the motor next to the gas pedal while turning the knob.
1:51
Thanks. Follow the link above to see what type of flashing fault you have. Fault 1-3 usually means it is the air mix control.
No flashes and I’ve changed the system it’s still not giving me cold air. What else could I do to find my problem?
Did you get your ac blowing cold yet?
Have you checked for coolant flow to the heat exchanger in the cabin? Could be the core is clogged.
@@andrewlayton9760 The problem is AC not heat.
mine didn’t blink at all
So what did you do to get ridof the code?
I was testing without and blend door actuator. I finally did install the actuator after positioning it and then I showed a no code. I have other videos on positioning and testing the actuator. Thank for your comment.
What did you fix?
For this test I just plugged the blend door actuator back in after disconnecting it. I just needed to show a failure.
I have no heat just cold air😢
@@jacklynelmer8783 yea. Look above the gas pedal at the blend door actuator and see if it moves when you move the temp knob. Shown in my other videos
@@dannyjensen4954 TY No it doesn't move at all!
Woohoo Danny TY for your help 😁 It was the plug. We unplugged & plugged it back in & it works! God Bless You ❤️🙌🙌🙌
@@jacklynelmer8783 So happy for the feedback.
My Honda CR-V blinked twice each time.
Check the doc i linked in the description:
DTC indicator 2: A Short in the Air Mix Control Motor Circuit
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF and then ON (II).
2. Do the self-diagnostic with the HVAC control unit.
3. Check for DTCs.
Is DTC 2 indicated? YES-Go to step 4.
NO-Intermittent failure.
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
5. Disconnect the air mix control motor 7P connector.
6. Disconnect the HVAC control unit 28P connector.
7. Check for continuity between body ground and the HVAC control unit 28P connector terminals No.6 and No.8 individually.
Honda CR-V. HVAC (Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning)
Dónde buscar el manual para la falla?
Did this test and no blinking light. However my CRV still blows full hot. Ideas?
How do you fix it if it blinks 2 time's?