It Takes An Emotional investment To Climb Sandstone In The Czech Republic
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- Опубліковано 26 жов 2023
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Climbing as a practice takes investment.
Investment of time, investment of money, and of course a mental or emotional investment. At its core, climbing makes you feel things that you probably wouldn't understand or experience otherwise, it is a practice of managing fear and pushing your mental capabilities further than they would normally want to go. That is never more apparent than in climbing in the Czech Republic. With its traditional ethics a strong mental investment in every route you climb is essential.
This is the story of Edita Vopatova's Emotional Investment into Czech Sandstone climbing.
Athlete: Edita Vopatov 👉 / editavopatova
🎥: Lukáš Černý 👉 / lukas.slack
Main Sponsor: Rafiki 👉 / rafikiclimbing
/ lukas.slack
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Hope you enjoy the film guys, don't forget to click on the subtitles if you're not a Czech speaker 🙌
nádherné videjko, pekne spracované a plné pozitívnej energie
So enjoyable, very well done to all 👏🏻👏🏻
I think is nessesery to say, if you are talkikng about the tradition, that chalk is forbiden without the excuse.
No, allowed from VIIIc. Sensible way, not bad for the rock.
wow
5:23 il furbo all'azione 😅
😮
This area is also connected to an area of somewhat larger size and identical sandstone towers in Germany (Elbsandstein or Sächsische Schweiz). She mentions it briefly.
The two areas are essentailly one, geographically and geologically. The border between them is only an imaginary line and can be crossed on foot without any checks, as this is the EU. The climbing rules and style are identical in both. A massive network of hiking trails goes throughout both areas and connects them as well.
She mentions chalk and is seen using it, but in fact it is not allowed because it reacts chemically with the sandstone and damages it. It is also unnecessary, because the sandstone is very porous.
Also not allowed is using any metal protection (cams, chocks, etc) which damage the brittle rock, and also break out for that reason,
and top roping, hang-dogging, pre-clipping, etc are all frowned upon.
So keep those things in mind if you do visit!
It has never been proved that chalk has Any chemicall reaction on sandatone.. if it was,please share the link👍🏽
@@novotnydavid55 Whether or not you think it's proven, that is the rule. It's not my rule, it's the rule of the National Park and the rule of the local chapter of the German Alpine Club. The same rules apply on the Czech side. They are the ones who replace the summit registers, maintain the Abseil rings, and are responsible for the upkeep of the National Park and the rules therein.
Wrong on the chalk comment. It's allowed from VIIIc in Czech republic. Sensible way, not bad for the rock.
I like the part where I have no idea what the fuck she’s talking about
Lotta videos getting pumped out on various channels about the Czech sandstone climbing area. Are you guys getting paid by the Czech Tourist board or something ? 😆
NO one looks at a list of possible climbing destinations and says to themselves: 'I'll book a trip to the Czech Republic, climb chalkless on sandbagged routes with no gear and no bolts and jam these shitty knots into cracks.'
I mean the place looks beautiful and I am sure it is but as a climbing destination who in hell is going there apart from the Wide Boyz so they can shit themselves?
Respect other countries and areas...
@@airb1976 please point out where any DISRESPECT is shown towards another country. This area is one of outstanding natural beauty. Its the climbing style and perhaps the fact that it's based on an old school boys club ethic and that every route is a chop route is the issue
you are right, most of the Czech sandstone climbing areas have a huge tradition, based on old school boys club ethic .. some of the Czechs love it, some don't .. the climbing here will never be too popular which is a good thing - the rock is so soft in most areas, it wouldn't last too long before all the routes were damaged .. you can see it on some easier and well protected popular routes - the marks of climbers are getting deeper and deeper each year ..
so really, the fact the routes are so intimidating (and the traffic is quite small) is the only way the rocks (and the areas around them) will survive :)
Yeah, even as a Czech I don't want to climb there 😂
@@user-xt4ip8un5m "....and that every route is a chop route...."
I have to confess that I can only recall doing one route on Czech sandstone - although at around the same time there were several others of a similar style over the border in Saxony and I wouldn't describe any of them as 'chop routes'. Not even remotely so. Perhaps we have very different views on what might qualify a route for 'chop status' - or maybe you were just being a touch over-dramatic.
This video is good, but the climber is really bad, not from the climbing part but the ethics.. chalk, preplaced quickdraws and all that is perfectly fine, anywhere but czech and german sandstone. Seing this really makes me sad. Do the rules always make sense? No! But we all respect them and so should you. This is a terrible example of a sandstone climber. She climbs hard, no question. Better than me, but the no chalk rule is not a suggestion. In germany its an enforcable law. Please respect the rock and dont do ego shit like this.
What is actually bad are poor internet haters disconnected from reality of the climbing like you. These routes in the XIth grade were FAed with chalk, and since then 100% repeaters use chalk on them, and apart from internet haters, it is generally well accepted within the Czech sandstone community. However I admit that the situation on the German side of the border differs, sadly turning Saxon climbing into stagnating outdoor museum..
@@MatejSvojtka thats your opineon and thats ok, i love climbing in our well preserved outdoor museum. i doubt that i am disconected from climbing my friend, and i am no internet hater. i climb all kinds of stiles, sport, indoor, trad and also saxon sandstone mixed trad. if you want to chalk and climb safe then the sandstone is just the wrong place.. call me crazy, but i really appreciate all the old hard routes that terrify the shit out of you because they are sandbaged and runout not to say deadly.
@@HochstartHarry OK so if you like climbing old trad routes without chalk then do it but dont say to others what should they do. On CZECH sandstone is really common to chalk the crap out of the route. And Btw the guy you’re talking to is one of the best Czech sandstone climbers. So keep your head cool mein freund
@@matyaslacina1214 read again
Try to climb Xc (8a+) without chalk and then say something to others.
Btw this is perfect example of sport climbing on Czech sandstone, because most of the sport climbers in Czech republic which can climb route from IXa to XIIb are using chalk.
Chalk 🤮🤮🤮👎👎👎
Don’t talk about things you don’t understand! Thanks
No, the rules are very clear. It is forbidden in Czech sandstone because it damages the rocks. And just because many people don't follow the rules, it's still forbidden. Respect nature!
@@urs832 please tell me how chalk destroy rock?
Chalk clogs the pores of the stone, especially soft sandstone. This makes the handles slippery in the long term. It also binds water there (hygroscopicity!), which can then expand in frost and cause additional damage. This forces the next climber to use the same amount or even more chalk. With limestone it is of course the other way round, as magnesium carbonate is alkaline, it binds hand perspiration and thus protects the rock. Source: German Alpine Association (among others). But apart from the fact that the study situation is also very thin, in how many international climbing areas, especially on dark rock and/or where it never rains, can you virtually see the climber's path -> and then we all wonder about a new rock blockage! You can find all this good or bad, but isn't it also a question of respect that as a real climber you stick to the ethics of the local climbing scene?
@@urs832 You just wrote there an example which describe climbing without chalk.
One thing is true, when you climb with chalk, it will stay on rock if you don’t clean it up. But why are the climbers use brushes? Hmm, to clean the rock?
Btw the sweat left on the rock by climber who doesn’t use chalk is much more slippery than chalk that climber didn’t clean up from the holds.