so glad i watched your video, 2005 jeep grand cherokee 5.7 and battling electrical issues for months, all componets , ac comp, starter, alt, sensors everything craping out and giving me headaches. finally found positive feed to one of the power distribution centers and the bolt was so loose i could spin it off with my finger and wire connection was just loose as a goose. been only one day but thats why i am looking for assurance that could be problem and it looks similar to yours. fingers crossed and thanks
I really enjoyed your video and the way you diagnosed the problem (Ingenious) , if only teachers and professors could explain things the way you just did the world would be a better place. Common sense is not so common and in fact common sense is ingenious. Now you understand why most mechanics drink and have a tendency to through a wrench or two. 🤔 - Just think when Henry Ford rolled out the first Model T a person could fold up the sides of the the hood and get to the whole engine with just a couple of tools, but today the vehicles are engineered so people bring them to the shop and wonder how they can afford the repair bill without a credit card.
I'm glad it worked out for you! Over the years, these tend to get loose. Also check the grounding wire to the Instrument Cluster under the dash to make sure it's got a good clean ground. Otherwise, you'll eventually start experiencing erratic behavior with the gauges. Cheers! Zip~
Bingo YOU FOUND ME??? I have the same problem? I was about to start my full size blaze one owner, 5.7 1992 I hit the ignition without starting and I’ve BEEN HEARING A GRINDING SOUND, and my tack needle was jumping it’s been jumping for a month or so, and I noticed my mileage gages trip and main was running up miles while I had the key on without starting or the vehicle MOVING? WTH 🤦🏼♂️ I watched almost a mile run up on my gage? And it’s been doing this for a couple months? So now I know I have 50-100 miles at least that’s NOT TRUE MILES? Anyways hope this fixes my issues as well? GREAT VIDEO! THANKS FOR THE INFO?
It was a real head scratcher for a while Wells. But I knew I had to post it in case others were having similar issues. Another good idea is to check your frame to body ground straps as well as the grounding wire to the metal dash frame under the dash to further prevent ground issues. These old GMT400 trucks are so well built, but over time, some things deteriorate. I hope all your electrical issues are resolved. Cheers! Zip~
Zip I pray u reply. Had my 88 2500 in at least 6 diff shops now. Last one told me to scrap it. A truck which fires up fine most of the time Problem you'll be driving down the road sometimes it starts acting starved of fuel sometimes backfires eventually just stalls. Sometimes restarts most times not. Stranded. 4 distributors at least 3 fuel pumps later...no fix. Np mechanic ever experienced the break down. I told him when I took it in do not replace the disy or fuel pump that was not the problem. He timed it did some injector work said it was fixed.i convinced him to keep test driving it knowing he hadn't found the issue. Sure enough he told me he barely got back to the shop. I don't think he did anything else or tried anything else. What surprised me most is not one 6+ mechanics have even tried to look for a short...i have so much money in this truck but I'm not a mechanic. The eng and transmission are 20000 miles on remanufactured .....could the problem highlighted in this video cause my problem???
There are many ground locations throughout the truck that can be causing this symptom. Battery to engine ground, frame to engine ground, frame to body ground, fuel pump to frame ground, inner dash framework to good ground (firewall of the truck is how I ran a new ground) and rear light wiring harness to ground. Believe it or not, I had a similar situation with another GMT400 that caused the truck to start fine, but as soon as you stepped on the brake pedal, the engine died! Pulled the rear brake light fuse and the problem went away long enough for me to get it back to my shop and investigate and trace the ground fault. So......my vote is there are grounding issues causing your problems. Have all of the grounds I mentioned replaced with your next visit. Since I'm not hands on, this is just my personal suggestion from my own experience, so it's not a guarantee it'll solve your problems, but that's where I would turn my attention. Poor grounds happen a lot as these vehicles age and your truck is about to hit 35 years old, so I'm sure you've got grounding straps that have long since given up. Hopefully this solves your problems! Zip~
@@terrysmith1914 Great question Terry. Just add new grounds. Clean surfaces well, use Dielectric Grease to protect the new ground connections. The gas tank ground is often overlooked as is the ground on the actual filler neck going to the gas tank. I don't think I mentioned that one in my first comment. I hope this solves your issues! Zip~
Thanks I have a wire on junction block that has cracked insulation and corroded exposed wires with low voltage. What are those white things on the wire, it's real close to that.
There are many grounding points on these old trucks. Typically a few under the dash, on the buss block I show in this video as well as chassis ground straps going from the engine to the frame. A simple loosening and retightening and you can typically cure any ground faults you're having. Keep us posted Mark! Zip~
Zip I had ordered some LED headlight bulbs well my son removed the battery hold down bolt and moved the battery back some to put on the low beam bulb well my A/C solenoids started acting weird and I thought it was a bad one so I changed it out well then after that I took a trip and my truck started to run bad even my Trans so I stopped to check the ground on my battery and the negative was loose a bit well I drove half way on my trip with no A/C because the solenoid was getting hot it fooled me big times. 😳
I’m a lil confused cuz u say that’s where ur drop was, but then proceeded to say it’s not where it was before cuz u checked it and had full power? So r u saying it was an intermittent issue? Or did u have full power at the junction block and then checked the fuse block in the cab and u still had a drop?
How do you open up that main junction block on firewall driver's side. I want to take it apart and disconnect it from firewall on inside because I am removing the dash and it makes it easier to have that wiring harness attached to dash on reinstallation like they did at the factory.
Thanks for the video, my 1991 cheyenne has been pulsating at the volt meter for yrs.,its aggravating . also when i turn on emergency flasher it does it. I have been wondering where to start. James from miss.
I have a terrible mess of wires in my 1990. My ac shorts the whole electrical system. Been slowly trying to fix it all. High milage ex at&t 1990 obs 350sbc 700r4. Been through grounds and crimped connections at least once or twice a week. Still no resolve. Owned the truck for a lil over a year, any advice?
Wow that's insane from the factory just think about all the new cars that they're just throwing together. And all of the ridiculously recalls almost every month. I don't want to buy anything new because it's just total junk thrown together.
I couldn't agree more Tank. I'd sooner buy a new Toyota Truck, than any so called "American" vehicle now. When NAFTA was passed under Clinton's reign, that spelled the end of true quality and pride in manufacturing in this Nation. But, some have held on to the pride in workmanship and refuse to loos touch with what was once the American Dream. Cheers! Zip~
I can't say I've had as many problems as you have had with yours, but I have had one problem that seems to jive with what you were describing. When I use my turn signals, my voltmeter on the dash pulses. Curious if it is related 2 The Block
It's most likely a frame to body grounding issue. The electrical system looks for a pathway so it has a complete circuit, and often it will go through a gauge or radio or some other well grounded source that the turn signals have a connection with other than the main grounding source. Best of luck with your issue and be glad it's a minor one! Cheers! Zip~
They're pretty much self explanatory Gene. Long rocker bar adjusts temp (just below the display) and if you have the deluxe controls, you'll have a "recirc" recirculation option. I use this on occasion on long trips with the A/C on to make it more efficient. The blue A/C turns the A/C on and off and when you hit the Defrost, it also turns the A/C compressor on if your A/C is in operational order. Far right is the fan speed then little round orange button shuts the controls off. As you press the heat/defrost or vent/heat, an arrow will move up and down. Press once and it moves, press again to stop it (to mix the air flow from floor and vents). Hope this helps. Zip~
ZippoVarga is there a setting where you can pull in outside air ?my old square Chevy I believe had a vent selection that's why I'm asking . Thanks alot
Actually, I miss those days when you could pull or push a lever and let fresh air in or open those iconic vent windows. But alas...I digress....The only way is to set the temp to it's coldest setting and make sure the recirculation button is set to off, and fire up the vents without the A/C. Other than that...you'll need to get into your square body for that true open air feeling. Zip~
And the point of your comment is? Sorry you're so impatient, but perhaps you've not been told. There's this cool feature called fast forward. I think it was originally invented on Victrola record players back in the 1800's. So instead of making an ass of your self to the public with negative comments you can learn a new trick (ok, so it's over 200 years old but yeah). Thanks for the laugh! I always enjoy when people get their panties in a bunch when all they have to do is either leave or skip forward. Made my Day! Zip~
Have an 88 GMC and it used to just stall out at an idle randomly. It turned out to be the same junction nut and post you focused on in this video. However on mine it was the actual wire that runs from the positive post to this electrical junction box that had a random short in the wire itself. It was causing the fuel injectors to stop working which shut the truck off. How we found it was my son wiggle ing that exact wire after I started the truck. When he moved that wire the fuel got shut off. Ran a new wire to that nut and it’s now fixed. BTW this is a good informative video. Check the wire to the junction box and do the maintenance on the other wires as well. 😁👍✌️
I had reached out in an earlier video on this issue and had no luck with that so I dove into it myself and I was surprised the truck had this pinched insulation from the factory and it took over 20 years for it to develop an issue. So posting it was more or less just letting everyone know I figured it out. But it's become a very popular video since it posted and I'm surprised at how many experienced issues with the same junction box wire. Cheers! And glad that you got yours sorted as well. Cheers! Zip~
Nice. I'll have to look at mine. It looks like my wires are hanging out of the side of the junction cover. My Sierra has an issue, but I'm sure the transmission is blown. It's funny though one of the first things I noticed is the voltage shows low on the cluster from day one with a new bat. It has lots of electrical issues but I still love it. Best $400 I ever spent. Great Job Cheers
Update: Transmission isn't completely toast. I looked at it today ended up being an intake gasket leak. Sometimes you get lucky. There is one post on the far right with nothing there in my junction box though. Thanks you gave me hope for my 92 k2500 (which is also red haha)
That's empty on my 93 c1500 as well. Pretty sure it's supposed to be. That would probably be for some dealer option/package crap back when they were sold new
Thanks Zippo for shedding light on that one fuse block. I have a '92 GMC Suburban that I bought off a neighbor, in California, because he couldn't afford to keep with the emissions laws here and aside from my ABS and Charge Light coming on when I get to 15 mph, I have a parasitic draw that drains my battery if I leave it connected overnight. On that block, a visible link keeps burning out and caught fire once. I notice that when that happens my headlight switch burned out. When I reconnect my battery I get a spark from the ground terminal post. I have the opposite of your gauge readout. Mines stays at 18. Still haven't figured it out. Nonetheless, thanks for shedding like.
And that's because I've aftermarket headlights and which require more power but the dimmer switch was bad which is what caught my wiring harness on fire
Thank You ZippoVarga! I just saw your video Wed night, and Thursday I went right to that ground feed wire on my 92 Silverado stepside reg cab, and sure enough it was finger loose, so I took off the Grnd wire, and wire brushed the eyelet on both sides, including the bolt and the nut, all the other feed wires were tight. I connected the battery and it fired right up, without that arching ticking sound you mentioned too, and the dash volt meter shot right up to 14v. The only thing I was out of pocket for was the lifetime warranty remanufactured alternator from Oreilly's for $104.14...I haven't named my truck, but it thanks you too! Cheers!
That's great news! It must be a fairly common issue. I've heard of a few who have experienced this. Seems odd that only this connector on the firewall would be loose, but at least that fix it self is free and easy! Cheers! Zip~
..thanks brother.. I just got a great deal on a '92 2500 Silverado, 4x4, same colors as yours.. exact same, except it's a fleet-side.. although I dont have this particular problem yet, I'll keep an eye out for it, & maybe even re-do it BEFORE it becomes a problem.. I do have one (major) issue though, which is : "cranks, but won't/hard to start..once started, runs fine".. Other videos I've seen all point to the fuel-pump relay... gettin started on it now.. I'm an OTR truck driver, so not home very often, & got other vehicles that my wife can drive to store, etc.. This truck is in incredibly good condition, with only 77,000 original mikes on it.. paid $3k for it, been offered $5k already, even with hard-to-start issue..(!).. NOPE!..lol.. Im keeping it..! Thanks again.. look forward to your continued videos..
Hard crank or hard start. Fuel delivery, ignition issues and/or fuel injector issues along with all associated relays. Change Plugs, Cap, Rotor, Plug wires, then run fuel injector cleaner through the gas tank. Replace the fuel pump relay (located under the cover on the passenger side fire wall) and have the fuel pressure checked. Engines will start with a weak fuel pump and run ok once the engine starts, but initially will have hard starting characteristics. Good luck with the Truck! Sounds like a nice one! Zip~
Was out there today working on my ‘94 C3500 with the 6.5td. Battery gauge is always low. Starter sounded sluggish lately. Batteries load test good. Alt charges ok. Found a broken braided ground strap on passenger side. From frame to fire wall. Replaced both from intake stud to fire wall fire wall to frame. Cables all pass loaded volt drop. Was thinking it was the crappy connection at the back of the gauge cluster but I’m going to check this out tomorrow. Thanks.
ZippoVarga well still no luck. I have gone through the system with no luck. I have the 6.5td and it seems that while cranking the battery voltage drops low enough where the computer won’t fire the injection pump. Going to install two new batteries today but ouch. My old batteries are only from 2017. Oh well. Any idea where the cab gets it’s main power? I have replaced ground straps starter alternator. Both free so might as well lol
+59chevt Thanks Tom, and yes...it's a true survivor truck. I'm the second owner and knew the previous owners for the past 15 years. They were always on top of the maintenance and only used Delco Remy OEM replacement parts. Cheers!! Zip~
Good fix.. Electrical issues are he worst. Makes sense that the feed wire was sort of fighting current flow and scrambling the radio which is probably very sensistive to current levels.
Thanks for this, my 1988 K1500 started to have some weird electrical issues: no charge, extended crank, driver side door lock sluggish. I checked everything i could find and all the grounds were good, no broken wires, no loose connections. I came across your video and checked this junction block and found one of the connections was burnt and had been arcing. When I went to take it off the terminal just crumbled. I moved to another terminal and that fixed everything! Now I am trying to track down a replacement junction block
man i skipped over your video for 2 months not thinking it would in any way and finally i watched it after trying everything else. i was about to go buy a new starter solenoid and starter and i was seeing if there was anythiing new and nothing. i clicked on this video figuring what the hell might as well and see what problem he had. I WISH I WOULDVE WATCHED THIS DAMN VIDEO 2 MONNTHS AGO!!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH MAN.. I replaced all my grounds twice even moved my ground spots 3-4 times. it would start up like i fixed it then it would lose power.(fired up bc i always stick the battery charger on it when i got home. MINE WAS IN A DIFFERENT SPOT BUT SAME WIRE.
Check fuses first. Pull out the dash fuse and if its good reinsert it then try the lights again. If they're still not working, try putting on just the parking lights and rotate the brightness knob for dash lights. The most common issue with headlights is the headlight switch itself. Improper dash grounding can also cause this issue. so make sure you've got good grounds everywhere. Battery to engine, engine to frame, frame to body, dash subframe to body. Good Luck! Zip~
Was that for a no crank no start problem. Just wondering cuz I have low volt on my battery gauge and my truck won’t start or crank but has power to starter and everything just won’t start or crank
It sounds like you've got a voltage drop before the starter Blair. Make sure all of the ground straps going from the battery to the engine, then to the frame of the truck and to the body of the truck are in place and in good shape. That's the typical cause of a no crank issue. Also, check the condition of your battery. It may be putting out voltage but not have the power (amps) needed to crank the engine over. Zip~
Really it's a simple fix it just took a really long time to figure it out. Are you positive thats an original line maybe it was fixed in the past?? Nothing sounds better than a good running Chevy engine.
+redneckbryon It's absolutely the original wiring from the factory. The nut holding the wire was barely finger tight...my guess is, it vibrated loose over time, causing the arc to become more prevalent. I'm just glad I finally found the gremlin. And I agree!! Nothing sounds better than a good old GM 350!! Cheers!! Zip~
how do i ck them with a muti meter to see the voltage on each one. Dont know much on those meters. .My truck loses all power just for a split sec. When you pull out pretty hard or kick it down to speed up or pass. YOU SEE THE BATTERY LIGHT FLASH AND SOMETIMES THE NOISE LIKE U JUST TURN THE KEY ON AND IT BACKFIRED ONE TIME.
There are a number of grounding straps through out the body and frame of the truck. One or a combination of them could be causing your issue. As far as a meter check, you just need to put the meter in Ohms with audible beep on and check between frame and body. Most commonly, the frame to body ground strap fails. If you've got the same generation truck as this, the grounding strap is located on the passenger side frame rail under the hood close to the body (firewall). Just replace this instead of messing with trying to get it to work. A solid core insulated wire works best. Be sure to use Dielectric Grease to help protect the mounting points and promote a good ground. As I stated, there are many grounding points. It's best to do a google search for locations of ground points on your specific vehicle to know exactly where to look. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga It was a starter wire getting groaded to the manifold when i would pull out ot kick it down the cab would move just enough for the wire to touch. Fixed that problem solved. Thank for your reply...
I think you may have just solved my problem. I have been chasing an electrical gremlin ever since I've owned my truck. Going to check this out as soon as I get home.
@@kevinhuskey5601 Remove every ground point u can find clean the contact terminals and put back. There are two on the front of the intake , one from the firewall to engine. Too name a few
Great video!, I’m looking to add a second battery and a diode isolator to my 88.the alternator connects to this junction box my question to you is is it okay if I disconnect the alternator from the junction box and go straight to the diode isolator with a inline fuse?
This is a question best left to a local qualified automotive electrical technician Mr. Roberts. You would need a switchable battery isolator and the electrical technicians expertise to guide you for your particular needs which I can't help you with from afar. Best of luck! Zip~
On my 94 Sierra if I mess with some wires under my dash it’ll be fine for a few but if not it will drain my battery in less then 20 mins got my battery and alternator tested and there fine
You need to determine which wires under the dash are not making a good connection Tank. Typically, it's a bad ground, but it sounds like you've got a dead short or parasitic draw with yours. Best of luck! Zip~
Points of ground are, battery to frame, battery to engine and frame to chassis. They are located in different locations per the year of your vehicle. Get a simple test light and look for larger diameter ground wires and straps attaching to the points I mentioned. Typically, the biggest issue with the gauge cluster resides in the frame to chassis ground and that is usually a braided grounding strap located on the passenger side frame rail that goes to the firewall under the heater box. Replace this with new or with a heavy cable. Also, under the dash, there are grounding points for the wiring harness since most of the dash is plastic. Look for wires attached to the metal sub frame and clean and re-tighten those. Also, where I found my issue is another area you should check. Good Luck! Zip~
When headlights on my hazards lights don’t flash and my right turn signal hyper flashes. With headlights off turn signal is normal and hazard lights work. Also my 4x4 shifter the light stays on the side that says put in neutral to engage low.
Do you know where I could find the info on what to set my multimeter to and how to test each of those connection points like where you said it read 12.3 volts across each one I want to do that
Man, try saying your 10 minute fixes in 5 minutes ( ie,, you sounded as bored talking about it , as we did listening to it ) (( before you judge me as being an a++ )) Kudos on the overlook, you just made my day, as this was spot on, soon as you said gauges bouncing, so I mean no belittlement, I'm just salty individual. ,,,,,,,,, but. One. Like; one subscribe
No offense taken here Roy!! But, be forewarned.....I DO BABBLE A LOT! lol So as you peruse my other videos, be prepared. I hope the meat and potatoes of the video helps solve your issue. If not, check all grounds. Cab to Frame, Frame to Engine and under the dash there are a couple grounding points. As these vehicles age, the grounding points tend to oxidize a bit, and all you really have to do is loosen then retighten the grounding points. There is also a ground strap under the truck bed (or near the fuel inlet on the Tahos and Suburbans) that's there to eliminate any chance of a static electricity spark. Best of luck to you you grumpy salt! lol Cheers! Zip~
I'm pretty persistent when it comes to a challenge like this. It may have taken a while and a couple times of walking away, but in the end, it all got sorted out. Now I'm dealing with the same type of issue with my 1995. Jumping gauges etc. This one I believe is the dash ground point. Cheers!! Zip~
This video turned out to be so helpful to me. I'm still unable to find the problem on my 93 but you did an excellent job explaining and showing things so I am much more informed and can keep researching with hope that I can find the problem. Thanks for posting.
I have a 94 c1500 with no crank and no power on the dash when I turn the key but my head lights still turn on so it’s not the battery and it has a brand new starter. Do you think it’s a bad ignition switch ?
Didn't resolve mine. (Update: I found out my fricken battery was DEFECTIVE!) Had some fierce gremlin on my 1990 K1500. Been jiggling wires all night long. Couldn't pinpoint the ish. GRRRRRRRR Tried all grounds inside and out of the truck as well. NO fix. Battery was defective. Are you kidding me.
I have determined that my stupid battery was defective. After all this. Voltage would drop even unattached to anything. Even testing the battery AT an auto parts store showed this. After ALL THIS - nothing but a defective / failed battery (that was only 6 months old - and 5-star Rated and $150) Thankfully the store replaced it with no questions asked. Haven't completed the reinstall yet but it makes perfect sense now.
I feel your frustration House. A common issue under the dash is a poor ground to the chassis. Also, check your ground from battery to engine, frame and chassis under the hood. Over time, they deteriorate and can cause major electrical gremlins. Good luck! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga I checked all of that 100 times. None were at fault. My battery was defective and showing severe voltage drop even unattached to anything. (Yet battery showed fully charged). So dumb of it. After all that... Just the battery was defective. ($150 5-star rated too). I have no explanation why. All I know is what I know. Because when I attached another known good battery to the truck, all electronics worked perfectly. This is how I knew to go get the only 6-month old battery tested. They proved it was a defective battery. So dumb...
@@ZippoVarga I went ahead and replaced the 30-year old battery cables as well. What FUN that was. Took all weekend (to do properly) as well as clean up all engine compartment wiring, sheathing, securing, etc. Stuff that has always bugged me about the engine bay wiring, all cleaned up now. Took ALL weekend - and alot of climbing in AND out of the engine bay - but now I feel better. lol
I went through the same thing on my 88 GMC and eventually found the problem right behind the glove compartment box pulled it out and noticed a cluster wires and saw where someone put a butt connector on one of them and did a poor job doing it. So it definitely got toasty luckily it didn't burn any of the other wires. I repaired it and everything went back to working I was surprised that one wire made me lose my turn signals my dash lights headlights my stereo, dome lights and the ignition the engine all from that all because of that single wire and of course it was the last place I looked after I went through every ground on that truck
It can definitely be frustrating! GM Was transitioning over from the Square body trucks which were all steel in the cab to Fantastic Plastic and had some growing pains figuring out how and where to set grounds. And you're right.....a single wire can screw up the whole works! On a '95 I had, I was working on the rear hitch and lost the ground for the tail lights. But, when I would start the truck it started fine, however se soon as I put it in reverse and/or stepped on the brakes I lost ignition power lol. Crazy! Glad you figured out your issue! Zip~
Awesome! I just found you. I have 1994 GMC 4X4 “Bucky-Roger”. Z package 1500 Sierra. Every time I run him a little bit he dies and won’t start. After cool off then he will start. As if something gets HOT and shuts down. Put a new battery in.. same issue. Been trying to troubleshoot. I don’t have testing equip yet but it seems like a fuel prob. I just bought him in 2020. He needed a catalytic converter installed for smog and registration. He ran real good for couple weeks. And I didn’t drive him much But then this issue started. Thinkin fuel pump or oil pump or bla bla. Maybe electrical? I noticed my oil pressure gauge jumps a lot. I’m just an old retired truck driver lady. I’m scanning your videos now.😊
Electrical issues are solved much easier in the dead of night
he's a vamp
Yeah.. after 8 hours of trying to figure it out driving yourself mad
I'm gonna try this out tomorrow and pray it's the problem. Thanks man!!!
Good luck!
Was it?
so glad i watched your video, 2005 jeep grand cherokee 5.7 and battling electrical issues for months, all componets , ac comp, starter, alt, sensors everything craping out and giving me headaches. finally found positive feed to one of the power distribution centers and the bolt was so loose i could spin it off with my finger and wire connection was just loose as a goose. been only one day but thats why i am looking for assurance that could be problem and it looks similar to yours. fingers crossed and thanks
I hope that solves your issues! Nothing worse than electrical gremlins! Cheers! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga thanks, same positive feed ,I hoping thanks again
Beautiful. Well done sir!
Nice video, will go through all my connections and clean them. A+ 😃
I really enjoyed your video and the way you diagnosed the problem (Ingenious) , if only teachers and professors could explain things the way you just did the world would be a better place. Common sense is not so common and in fact common sense is ingenious. Now you understand why most mechanics drink and have a tendency to through a wrench or two. 🤔 - Just think when Henry Ford rolled out the first Model T a person could fold up the sides of the the hood and get to the whole engine with just a couple of tools, but today the vehicles are engineered so people bring them to the shop and wonder how they can afford the repair bill without a credit card.
WOW -- you just save me a lot of headaches. I had the same problem and my screws were loose (not just the ones in my head) too!
I'm glad it worked out for you! Over the years, these tend to get loose. Also check the grounding wire to the Instrument Cluster under the dash to make sure it's got a good clean ground. Otherwise, you'll eventually start experiencing erratic behavior with the gauges. Cheers! Zip~
Where is that ground wire exactly?
same problem, been at it for a week. trying this first thing in the morning. thanks!!!!
Also check your frame to body ground Ruben. This is also a common area that fails after 20 years. Cheers and good luck! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga would the ground wire going from the block to the body make it not crank???
Mine was loose too. Thanks for the vid!
Thank you....I have voltage drop currently on my 92 GMC 2500. Always like your vids for good info.
I hope this info helps out X-ray! Cheers! Zip~
I was looking for something else but I have this issue also! Thanks. Clifford! Brilliant
I'll tell Clifford the Big Red Truck that you said thank you! Cheers! Zip~
Bingo YOU FOUND ME??? I have the same problem? I was about to start my full size blaze one owner, 5.7 1992 I hit the ignition without starting and I’ve BEEN HEARING A GRINDING SOUND, and my tack needle was jumping it’s been jumping for a month or so, and I noticed my mileage gages trip and main was running up miles while I had the key on without starting or the vehicle MOVING? WTH 🤦🏼♂️ I watched almost a mile run up on my gage? And it’s been doing this for a couple months? So now I know I have 50-100 miles at least that’s NOT TRUE MILES? Anyways hope this fixes my issues as well? GREAT VIDEO! THANKS FOR THE INFO?
Thanks man I'm dealing with similar issues I'm on it today.
Best of luck to you! Zip~
Thank you my 1989 k1500 had the same problem fixed now
It was a real head scratcher for a while Wells. But I knew I had to post it in case others were having similar issues. Another good idea is to check your frame to body ground straps as well as the grounding wire to the metal dash frame under the dash to further prevent ground issues. These old GMT400 trucks are so well built, but over time, some things deteriorate. I hope all your electrical issues are resolved. Cheers! Zip~
My climate control didn’t work it would come on than off than go in defrost and stay there
Tighten the bolts on the firewall under the plastic panel first bolt was loose
Hey buddy chances believe it or not are great. My problem that cost me alot ...perfect video thanks 2 months of hell
Zip I pray u reply. Had my 88 2500 in at least 6 diff shops now. Last one told me to scrap it. A truck which fires up fine most of the time
Problem you'll be driving down the road sometimes it starts acting starved of fuel sometimes backfires eventually just stalls. Sometimes restarts most times not. Stranded. 4 distributors at least 3 fuel pumps later...no fix. Np mechanic ever experienced the break down. I told him when I took it in do not replace the disy or fuel pump that was not the problem. He timed it did some injector work said it was fixed.i convinced him to keep test driving it knowing he hadn't found the issue. Sure enough he told me he barely got back to the shop. I don't think he did anything else or tried anything else. What surprised me most is not one 6+ mechanics have even tried to look for a short...i have so much money in this truck but I'm not a mechanic. The eng and transmission are 20000 miles on remanufactured .....could the problem highlighted in this video cause my problem???
There are many ground locations throughout the truck that can be causing this symptom. Battery to engine ground, frame to engine ground, frame to body ground, fuel pump to frame ground, inner dash framework to good ground (firewall of the truck is how I ran a new ground) and rear light wiring harness to ground. Believe it or not, I had a similar situation with another GMT400 that caused the truck to start fine, but as soon as you stepped on the brake pedal, the engine died! Pulled the rear brake light fuse and the problem went away long enough for me to get it back to my shop and investigate and trace the ground fault. So......my vote is there are grounding issues causing your problems. Have all of the grounds I mentioned replaced with your next visit. Since I'm not hands on, this is just my personal suggestion from my own experience, so it's not a guarantee it'll solve your problems, but that's where I would turn my attention. Poor grounds happen a lot as these vehicles age and your truck is about to hit 35 years old, so I'm sure you've got grounding straps that have long since given up. Hopefully this solves your problems! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga thank you for your reply quick question can you just add grounds or must you remove the old?
@@terrysmith1914 Great question Terry. Just add new grounds. Clean surfaces well, use Dielectric Grease to protect the new ground connections. The gas tank ground is often overlooked as is the ground on the actual filler neck going to the gas tank. I don't think I mentioned that one in my first comment. I hope this solves your issues! Zip~
Thanks I have a wire on junction block that has cracked insulation and corroded exposed wires with low voltage. What are those white things on the wire, it's real close to that.
Good find things like that can drive you crazy.
It did for a long time!! Cheers! Zip~
92 1500 shortbed similar problems, gonna run the circuit. will let ya know
There are many grounding points on these old trucks. Typically a few under the dash, on the buss block I show in this video as well as chassis ground straps going from the engine to the frame. A simple loosening and retightening and you can typically cure any ground faults you're having. Keep us posted Mark! Zip~
same here 1500 chevy truck 1993 thanks so much
Zip I had ordered some LED headlight bulbs well my son removed the battery hold down bolt and moved the battery back some to put on the low beam bulb well my A/C solenoids started acting weird and I thought it was a bad one so I changed it out well then after that I took a trip and my truck started to run bad even my Trans so I stopped to check the ground on my battery and the negative was loose a bit well I drove half way on my trip with no A/C because the solenoid was getting hot it fooled me big times. 😳
Off topic question but that feed wire to the junction box, does it come straight from the battery or from the starter?
Should come straight from the battery with a fuseable link.
I’m a lil confused cuz u say that’s where ur drop was, but then proceeded to say it’s not where it was before cuz u checked it and had full power? So r u saying it was an intermittent issue? Or did u have full power at the junction block and then checked the fuse block in the cab and u still had a drop?
It was intermittent. Which is why there were signs of arcing on the connector and stand off.
Great video! will help me on my 88 5.7 litre I've owned now 5 years. Yelm WA
So the one that was arking going straight to the battery?
Yes
Does anybody know what goes what on that junction box, i have a 93 4.3 and its shorting out where, battery cables get siper hot
How do you open up that main junction block on firewall driver's side. I want to take it apart and disconnect it from firewall on inside because I am removing the dash and it makes it easier to have that wiring harness attached to dash on reinstallation like they did at the factory.
There should be a single screw/bolt in the center of the wiring junction block. Take that out, and the outer and inner junction unplugs. Zip~
Thanks for the video, my 1991 cheyenne has been pulsating at the volt meter for yrs.,its aggravating . also when i turn on emergency flasher it does it. I have been wondering where to start. James from miss.
I have a terrible mess of wires in my 1990. My ac shorts the whole electrical system. Been slowly trying to fix it all. High milage ex at&t 1990 obs 350sbc 700r4. Been through grounds and crimped connections at least once or twice a week. Still no resolve. Owned the truck for a lil over a year, any advice?
How do you remove the junction block??? I really need to know because I'm having a very similar issue
only guaranteed for a year. guess it passed the test LOL Probably built on Wednesday Zip
But did you still have spark and fuel
Yes. The truck operated fine, I was just having intermittent dash and stereo interference if memory serves.
The junction box controls? Any issues that come up if it goes bad?
Well done !
interesting. THANKS!
Nice engineering my friend 👍👍👉👉 cheers
2 min
Thanks! What I'm currently dealing with..
It's always a wire!
Dark as hell this is a horror movie
you made go out in the snow in my underwear 15 degrees in tennessee but worth it thanks
Clifford must be a sparky.
He certainly Was! lol Zip~
Wow that's insane from the factory just think about all the new cars that they're just throwing together. And all of the ridiculously recalls almost every month. I don't want to buy anything new because it's just total junk thrown together.
I couldn't agree more Tank. I'd sooner buy a new Toyota Truck, than any so called "American" vehicle now. When NAFTA was passed under Clinton's reign, that spelled the end of true quality and pride in manufacturing in this Nation. But, some have held on to the pride in workmanship and refuse to loos touch with what was once the American Dream. Cheers! Zip~
hmm thanks brother
No problem
I can't say I've had as many problems as you have had with yours, but I have had one problem that seems to jive with what you were describing. When I use my turn signals, my voltmeter on the dash pulses. Curious if it is related 2 The Block
It's most likely a frame to body grounding issue. The electrical system looks for a pathway so it has a complete circuit, and often it will go through a gauge or radio or some other well grounded source that the turn signals have a connection with other than the main grounding source. Best of luck with your issue and be glad it's a minor one! Cheers! Zip~
How do you use the climate controls? I don't know each setting
They're pretty much self explanatory Gene. Long rocker bar adjusts temp (just below the display) and if you have the deluxe controls, you'll have a "recirc" recirculation option. I use this on occasion on long trips with the A/C on to make it more efficient. The blue A/C turns the A/C on and off and when you hit the Defrost, it also turns the A/C compressor on if your A/C is in operational order. Far right is the fan speed then little round orange button shuts the controls off. As you press the heat/defrost or vent/heat, an arrow will move up and down. Press once and it moves, press again to stop it (to mix the air flow from floor and vents). Hope this helps. Zip~
ZippoVarga is there a setting where you can pull in outside air ?my old square Chevy I believe had a vent selection that's why I'm asking . Thanks alot
Actually, I miss those days when you could pull or push a lever and let fresh air in or open those iconic vent windows. But alas...I digress....The only way is to set the temp to it's coldest setting and make sure the recirculation button is set to off, and fire up the vents without the A/C. Other than that...you'll need to get into your square body for that true open air feeling. Zip~
👍👍👍
Clifford LOL
Should cut all the fusible links off, and boom never a problem again on that
You won't have a problem after it's all burned down
I Bet your Pet Frog Likes diet coke TOO!
3
Man get to the point
And the point of your comment is? Sorry you're so impatient, but perhaps you've not been told. There's this cool feature called fast forward. I think it was originally invented on Victrola record players back in the 1800's. So instead of making an ass of your self to the public with negative comments you can learn a new trick (ok, so it's over 200 years old but yeah). Thanks for the laugh! I always enjoy when people get their panties in a bunch when all they have to do is either leave or skip forward. Made my Day! Zip~
Have an 88 GMC and it used to just stall out at an idle randomly. It turned out to be the same junction nut and post you focused on in this video. However on mine it was the actual wire that runs from the positive post to this electrical junction box that had a random short in the wire itself. It was causing the fuel injectors to stop working which shut the truck off. How we found it was my son wiggle ing that exact wire after I started the truck. When he moved that wire the fuel got shut off. Ran a new wire to that nut and it’s now fixed. BTW this is a good informative video. Check the wire to the junction box and do the maintenance on the other wires as well. 😁👍✌️
I had reached out in an earlier video on this issue and had no luck with that so I dove into it myself and I was surprised the truck had this pinched insulation from the factory and it took over 20 years for it to develop an issue. So posting it was more or less just letting everyone know I figured it out. But it's become a very popular video since it posted and I'm surprised at how many experienced issues with the same junction box wire. Cheers! And glad that you got yours sorted as well. Cheers! Zip~
Did this also cause headlights to flicker?
thank for you replying the fuel was mine thanks 91 and 94 any ideas on 4x4 not working when its not actuator
Nice. I'll have to look at mine. It looks like my wires are hanging out of the side of the junction cover. My Sierra has an issue, but I'm sure the transmission is blown. It's funny though one of the first things I noticed is the voltage shows low on the cluster from day one with a new bat. It has lots of electrical issues but I still love it. Best $400 I ever spent. Great Job Cheers
Update: Transmission isn't completely toast. I looked at it today ended up being an intake gasket leak. Sometimes you get lucky. There is one post on the far right with nothing there in my junction box though. Thanks you gave me hope for my 92 k2500 (which is also red haha)
That's empty on my 93 c1500 as well. Pretty sure it's supposed to be.
That would probably be for some dealer option/package crap back when they were sold new
@@MadAtMax.300Blackout That makes sense.
Thanks Zippo for shedding light on that one fuse block. I have a '92 GMC Suburban that I bought off a neighbor, in California, because he couldn't afford to keep with the emissions laws here and aside from my ABS and Charge Light coming on when I get to 15 mph, I have a parasitic draw that drains my battery if I leave it connected overnight. On that block, a visible link keeps burning out and caught fire once. I notice that when that happens my headlight switch burned out. When I reconnect my battery I get a spark from the ground terminal post. I have the opposite of your gauge readout. Mines stays at 18. Still haven't figured it out. Nonetheless, thanks for shedding like.
I hope you can get things sorted out. These older GM trucks and SUV's are built like tanks and worth keeping on the road. Keep us posted! Zip~
My mind caught on fire too ended up being my dimmer switch I have a 4.3 l V6 1990 GMC s15
And that's because I've aftermarket headlights and which require more power but the dimmer switch was bad which is what caught my wiring harness on fire
Thank You ZippoVarga! I just saw your video Wed night, and Thursday I went right to that ground feed wire on my 92 Silverado stepside reg cab, and sure enough it was finger loose, so I took off the Grnd wire, and wire brushed the eyelet on both sides, including the bolt and the nut, all the other feed wires were tight. I connected the battery and it fired right up, without that arching ticking sound you mentioned too, and the dash volt meter shot right up to 14v. The only thing I was out of pocket for was the lifetime warranty remanufactured alternator from Oreilly's for $104.14...I haven't named my truck, but it thanks you too! Cheers!
That's great news! It must be a fairly common issue. I've heard of a few who have experienced this. Seems odd that only this connector on the firewall would be loose, but at least that fix it self is free and easy! Cheers! Zip~
..thanks brother.. I just got a great deal on a '92 2500 Silverado, 4x4, same colors as yours.. exact same, except it's a fleet-side.. although I dont have this particular problem yet, I'll keep an eye out for it, & maybe even re-do it BEFORE it becomes a problem.. I do have one (major) issue though, which is : "cranks, but won't/hard to start..once started, runs fine".. Other videos I've seen all point to the fuel-pump relay... gettin started on it now.. I'm an OTR truck driver, so not home very often, & got other vehicles that my wife can drive to store, etc..
This truck is in incredibly good condition, with only 77,000 original mikes on it.. paid $3k for it, been offered $5k already, even with hard-to-start issue..(!)..
NOPE!..lol.. Im keeping it..!
Thanks again.. look forward to your continued videos..
Hard crank or hard start. Fuel delivery, ignition issues and/or fuel injector issues along with all associated relays. Change Plugs, Cap, Rotor, Plug wires, then run fuel injector cleaner through the gas tank. Replace the fuel pump relay (located under the cover on the passenger side fire wall) and have the fuel pressure checked. Engines will start with a weak fuel pump and run ok once the engine starts, but initially will have hard starting characteristics. Good luck with the Truck! Sounds like a nice one! Zip~
..this took care of my problem....94 S10 V-6
Thanks for the video and for covering everything very well. Great job!!!
Was out there today working on my ‘94 C3500 with the 6.5td. Battery gauge is always low. Starter sounded sluggish lately. Batteries load test good. Alt charges ok. Found a broken braided ground strap on passenger side. From frame to fire wall. Replaced both from intake stud to fire wall fire wall to frame. Cables all pass loaded volt drop. Was thinking it was the crappy connection at the back of the gauge cluster but I’m going to check this out tomorrow. Thanks.
Unfortunately, this is a common issue, but easily fixed and typically all it costs is a little time. Keep that old GMT400 alive! Zip~
ZippoVarga well still no luck. I have gone through the system with no luck. I have the 6.5td and it seems that while cranking the battery voltage drops low enough where the computer won’t fire the injection pump. Going to install two new batteries today but ouch. My old batteries are only from 2017. Oh well. Any idea where the cab gets it’s main power? I have replaced ground straps starter alternator. Both free so might as well lol
I got the same problem
I hope you get it sorted. Read comments to see other grounding areas I mention. Zip~
Glad you found the problem and are all set now. Looks like a real nice truck.
+59chevt Thanks Tom, and yes...it's a true survivor truck. I'm the second owner and knew the previous owners for the past 15 years. They were always on top of the maintenance and only used Delco Remy OEM replacement parts. Cheers!! Zip~
Good fix.. Electrical issues are he worst. Makes sense that the feed wire was sort of fighting current flow and scrambling the radio which is probably very sensistive to current levels.
Thanks for this, my 1988 K1500 started to have some weird electrical issues: no charge, extended crank, driver side door lock sluggish. I checked everything i could find and all the grounds were good, no broken wires, no loose connections. I came across your video and checked this junction block and found one of the connections was burnt and had been arcing. When I went to take it off the terminal just crumbled. I moved to another terminal and that fixed everything! Now I am trying to track down a replacement junction block
Awesome! I'm glad you were able to remedy the problem with the help of my video. Cheers! Zip~
Very good video, I have a 96 s10 and I was having the same kinda problem with the voltage. You really explains the situation and that helped alot.
man i skipped over your video for 2 months not thinking it would in any way and finally i watched it after trying everything else. i was about to go buy a new starter solenoid and starter and i was seeing if there was anythiing new and nothing. i clicked on this video figuring what the hell might as well and see what problem he had. I WISH I WOULDVE WATCHED THIS DAMN VIDEO 2 MONNTHS AGO!!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH MAN.. I replaced all my grounds twice even moved my ground spots 3-4 times. it would start up like i fixed it then it would lose power.(fired up bc i always stick the battery charger on it when i got home. MINE WAS IN A DIFFERENT SPOT BUT SAME WIRE.
I should clarify the turn signals flash quickly when the brake is applied
Today my 1994 gmc k2500 lost dash lights while driving it...any suggestions. Thanks
Check fuses first. Pull out the dash fuse and if its good reinsert it then try the lights again. If they're still not working, try putting on just the parking lights and rotate the brightness knob for dash lights. The most common issue with headlights is the headlight switch itself. Improper dash grounding can also cause this issue. so make sure you've got good grounds everywhere. Battery to engine, engine to frame, frame to body, dash subframe to body. Good Luck! Zip~
Ok. Thank you for taking your time on responding. 👏
That junction point is an often overlooked issue. Most people don't remove the cover and run electrical checks.
Saw another video where the second one was losing it. Free repair.
Was that for a no crank no start problem. Just wondering cuz I have low volt on my battery gauge and my truck won’t start or crank but has power to starter and everything just won’t start or crank
It sounds like you've got a voltage drop before the starter Blair. Make sure all of the ground straps going from the battery to the engine, then to the frame of the truck and to the body of the truck are in place and in good shape. That's the typical cause of a no crank issue. Also, check the condition of your battery. It may be putting out voltage but not have the power (amps) needed to crank the engine over. Zip~
Really it's a simple fix it just took a really long time to figure it out.
Are you positive thats an original line maybe it was fixed in the past??
Nothing sounds better than a good running Chevy engine.
+redneckbryon It's absolutely the original wiring from the factory. The nut holding the wire was barely finger tight...my guess is, it vibrated loose over time, causing the arc to become more prevalent. I'm just glad I finally found the gremlin. And I agree!! Nothing sounds better than a good old GM 350!! Cheers!! Zip~
Thank you for sharing
Good video explaining many things that one might not know. A+
Hey Rolando! I'm glad you appreciate the video! Cheers! Zip~
how do i ck them with a muti meter to see the voltage on each one. Dont know much on those meters. .My truck loses all power just for a split sec. When you pull out pretty hard or kick it down to speed up or pass. YOU SEE THE BATTERY LIGHT FLASH AND SOMETIMES THE NOISE LIKE U JUST TURN THE KEY ON AND IT BACKFIRED ONE TIME.
There are a number of grounding straps through out the body and frame of the truck. One or a combination of them could be causing your issue. As far as a meter check, you just need to put the meter in Ohms with audible beep on and check between frame and body. Most commonly, the frame to body ground strap fails. If you've got the same generation truck as this, the grounding strap is located on the passenger side frame rail under the hood close to the body (firewall). Just replace this instead of messing with trying to get it to work. A solid core insulated wire works best. Be sure to use Dielectric Grease to help protect the mounting points and promote a good ground. As I stated, there are many grounding points. It's best to do a google search for locations of ground points on your specific vehicle to know exactly where to look. Zip~
@@ZippoVarga It was a starter wire getting groaded to the manifold when i would pull out ot kick it down the cab would move just enough for the wire to touch. Fixed that problem solved. Thank for your reply...
Wow good for you man, I’m chasing a few things down myself on the CanBus.
Have an 89 short runs battery down
Finally put racecar switch on it
And solved the short but now wondering if my issue is feed block.
I think you may have just solved my problem. I have been chasing an electrical gremlin ever since I've owned my truck. Going to check this out as soon as I get home.
Did it fix the issue?
@@cognitivedissonance7362 Unfortunately no. The search continues.
@@kevinhuskey5601 Remove every ground point u can find clean the contact terminals and put back. There are two on the front of the intake , one from the firewall to engine. Too name a few
Great video!, I’m looking to add a second battery and a diode isolator to my 88.the alternator connects to this junction box my question to you is is it okay if I disconnect the alternator from the junction box and go straight to the diode isolator with a inline fuse?
This is a question best left to a local qualified automotive electrical technician Mr. Roberts. You would need a switchable battery isolator and the electrical technicians expertise to guide you for your particular needs which I can't help you with from afar. Best of luck! Zip~
On my 94 Sierra if I mess with some wires under my dash it’ll be fine for a few but if not it will drain my battery in less then 20 mins got my battery and alternator tested and there fine
You need to determine which wires under the dash are not making a good connection Tank. Typically, it's a bad ground, but it sounds like you've got a dead short or parasitic draw with yours. Best of luck! Zip~
Where is all the grounds located at. I have a problem when I have my turn Signals on my gauges like to jump around.
Points of ground are, battery to frame, battery to engine and frame to chassis. They are located in different locations per the year of your vehicle. Get a simple test light and look for larger diameter ground wires and straps attaching to the points I mentioned. Typically, the biggest issue with the gauge cluster resides in the frame to chassis ground and that is usually a braided grounding strap located on the passenger side frame rail that goes to the firewall under the heater box. Replace this with new or with a heavy cable. Also, under the dash, there are grounding points for the wiring harness since most of the dash is plastic. Look for wires attached to the metal sub frame and clean and re-tighten those. Also, where I found my issue is another area you should check. Good Luck! Zip~
Did you fix the issue?
When headlights on my hazards lights don’t flash and my right turn signal hyper flashes. With headlights off turn signal is normal and hazard lights work. Also my 4x4 shifter the light stays on the side that says put in neutral to engage low.
Do you know where I could find the info on what to set my multimeter to and how to test each of those connection points like where you said it read 12.3 volts across each one I want to do that
I had a similar issue, last owner installed a buttload of aftermarket audio gear. Just tore it all out and it fixed it
The chances are huge it has happened to others. I was one of them. Not anymore. Thank you! Thank you. Thank you.
I’m so glad to hear that my video helped you to remedy your issues. Cheers!! Zip~
Man, try saying your 10 minute fixes in 5 minutes ( ie,, you sounded as bored talking about it , as we did listening to it ) (( before you judge me as being an a++ )) Kudos on the overlook, you just made my day, as this was spot on, soon as you said gauges bouncing, so I mean no belittlement, I'm just salty individual. ,,,,,,,,, but. One. Like; one subscribe
No offense taken here Roy!! But, be forewarned.....I DO BABBLE A LOT! lol So as you peruse my other videos, be prepared. I hope the meat and potatoes of the video helps solve your issue. If not, check all grounds. Cab to Frame, Frame to Engine and under the dash there are a couple grounding points. As these vehicles age, the grounding points tend to oxidize a bit, and all you really have to do is loosen then retighten the grounding points. There is also a ground strap under the truck bed (or near the fuel inlet on the Tahos and Suburbans) that's there to eliminate any chance of a static electricity spark. Best of luck to you you grumpy salt! lol Cheers! Zip~
That’s why ford has a wiggle test. Working on 1996 3500 cheby similar issues. Thanks
The wires at my junction box (just like this one) keeps getting covered with moisture/ oil and I can’t figure out where... any ideas?
Where does the feed wire come from? The battery?
Good job, assume nothing.
You did not just throw up hands and quit.
I'm pretty persistent when it comes to a challenge like this. It may have taken a while and a couple times of walking away, but in the end, it all got sorted out. Now I'm dealing with the same type of issue with my 1995. Jumping gauges etc. This one I believe is the dash ground point. Cheers!! Zip~
I think Clifford would like Diet Pepsi better
Nice that Clifford can live a normal life in his last remaining years.
He's a good truck for sure. Showing his age, but here in the rust belt, they all do! Cheers! Zip~
This video turned out to be so helpful to me. I'm still unable to find the problem on my 93 but you did an excellent job explaining and showing things so I am much more informed and can keep researching with hope that I can find the problem. Thanks for posting.
Check through the comments. I reference other trouble areas where grounds often deteriorate over the years that may be helpful. Zip~
I have a 94 c1500 with no crank and no power on the dash when I turn the key but my head lights still turn on so it’s not the battery and it has a brand new starter. Do you think it’s a bad ignition switch ?
I have the same damn problem
Didn't resolve mine. (Update: I found out my fricken battery was DEFECTIVE!) Had some fierce gremlin on my 1990 K1500. Been jiggling wires all night long. Couldn't pinpoint the ish. GRRRRRRRR Tried all grounds inside and out of the truck as well. NO fix. Battery was defective. Are you kidding me.
I have determined that my stupid battery was defective. After all this. Voltage would drop even unattached to anything. Even testing the battery AT an auto parts store showed this. After ALL THIS - nothing but a defective / failed battery (that was only 6 months old - and 5-star Rated and $150) Thankfully the store replaced it with no questions asked. Haven't completed the reinstall yet but it makes perfect sense now.
I feel your frustration House. A common issue under the dash is a poor ground to the chassis. Also, check your ground from battery to engine, frame and chassis under the hood. Over time, they deteriorate and can cause major electrical gremlins. Good luck! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga I checked all of that 100 times. None were at fault. My battery was defective and showing severe voltage drop even unattached to anything. (Yet battery showed fully charged). So dumb of it. After all that... Just the battery was defective. ($150 5-star rated too). I have no explanation why. All I know is what I know. Because when I attached another known good battery to the truck, all electronics worked perfectly. This is how I knew to go get the only 6-month old battery tested. They proved it was a defective battery. So dumb...
@@ZippoVarga I went ahead and replaced the 30-year old battery cables as well. What FUN that was. Took all weekend (to do properly) as well as clean up all engine compartment wiring, sheathing, securing, etc. Stuff that has always bugged me about the engine bay wiring, all cleaned up now. Took ALL weekend - and alot of climbing in AND out of the engine bay - but now I feel better. lol
My fuel pump stay on after the truck is off .. (94 Silverado 1500) can’t find the solution
Check the fuel pump relay.....and chang as needed
I went through the same thing on my 88 GMC and eventually found the problem right behind the glove compartment box pulled it out and noticed a cluster wires and saw where someone put a butt connector on one of them and did a poor job doing it. So it definitely got toasty luckily it didn't burn any of the other wires. I repaired it and everything went back to working I was surprised that one wire made me lose my turn signals my dash lights headlights my stereo, dome lights and the ignition the engine all from that all because of that single wire and of course it was the last place I looked after I went through every ground on that truck
It can definitely be frustrating! GM Was transitioning over from the Square body trucks which were all steel in the cab to Fantastic Plastic and had some growing pains figuring out how and where to set grounds. And you're right.....a single wire can screw up the whole works! On a '95 I had, I was working on the rear hitch and lost the ground for the tail lights. But, when I would start the truck it started fine, however se soon as I put it in reverse and/or stepped on the brakes I lost ignition power lol. Crazy! Glad you figured out your issue! Zip~
Bulkhead connectors will tear you a new 1 too. Good job!
I'm, Tommy, I do appreciate your help with this problem I am faced with. Now I have a better understanding. God is good!
Glad to help
Would that area stop your headlights from workin
No Rider. Typically headlight faults are the headlight switch it self. Zip~
Awesome! I just found you. I have 1994 GMC 4X4 “Bucky-Roger”. Z package 1500 Sierra. Every time I run him a little bit he dies and won’t start. After cool off then he will start. As if something gets HOT and shuts down. Put a new battery in.. same issue. Been trying to troubleshoot. I don’t have testing equip yet but it seems like a fuel prob. I just bought him in 2020. He needed a catalytic converter installed for smog and registration. He ran real good for couple weeks. And I didn’t drive him much But then this issue started. Thinkin fuel pump or oil pump or bla bla. Maybe electrical? I noticed my oil pressure gauge jumps a lot. I’m just an old retired truck driver lady. I’m scanning your videos now.😊
Positive cable from your battery to your starter is on the wrong terminal on starter.
Ignition control module