📍 Air door actuator locations for 1988-94 Chevy/GMC trucks: heater mode selector, heater blend door, and air inlet. Struggling with a faulty actuator? My blog post is the ultimate guide to help you diagnose & repair! 💪🔧 #GMC #TruckRepair 🔗 www.buildpriceoption.com/air-door-actuator-locations-1988-94-chevy-and-gmc-truck/
If you cut the slot where the screw goes on the very end, you can start the screw first then slide the actuator into place, then tighten the screws afterwards.
I was thinking of trying that. Will it let the actuator swing into place on the shaft? UPDATE: You were right after fighting that little bastard all the way out, I screwed it back in about 2/3 and cut a slot in the actuator. A little tricky getting it to line up ( I already had the blower motor removed so, it was easy to lift the door to align the shaft) But, well worth it. Thanks Armando! PS, it also helps if you cuss at it a lot.
SO FYI... the problem with cutting the tab to make it a "slot" is... the actuator fits over the "shaft" of the door AND over the pin of the 3rd hole, and cannot slide into place... it cannot "pivot" either... there just is no room. YOU CAN get a little better tool... a 1/4 hex drive bit that is a "nut-driver" in 9/32 or 5.5mm works... you can cut the shaft of the bit to make it shorter and use the little "shallow" ratchet handle or a 1/4 ratcheting box end wrench on the bit... and a tiny neo-magnet stuck to the back of the bit holds the screw to the bit to reinstall...
I used a 4 1/2” angle grinder to cut an approximately 1 1/2” wide x 3” high opening in the firewall in the engine compartment after taking a bunch of measurements as to where I needed the hole. I didn’t cut the side closest to the center of the vehicle just used it like a hinge. Then bent the little panel open and removed the screw. To close it up I hammered the flap shut and neatly applied a two pieces of silver aluminum tape. Works good, looks ok. This is a 30 year old work truck so no one will be taking pictures of my art work at a car show…
That's how I replaced my AC evaporator. Cut a hole in the firewall and pulled it out from the engine compartment. There is one small screw inside the case that has to be removed. Took a while to figure that out.
Put the screw through the hole . Slip a small o-ring on the backside holding it in place .Put your actuator in place then tighten the screw. This trick works on various applications. I keep all sizes of o-rings in my toolbox for this very reason . Hope this helps .
Every issue I've ever ran into with my 91 Chevy Cheyenne 2500 you have had to deal with as well and when I'm lost on what or how to fix it so I highly appreciate you making all the videos u make .... Thank you so much
After all that work, it would drive me crazy not to have that last screw installed! Come on Frank! Be a hero and get it done. I saw a video and the guy taped the screw to a socket and got it started with his fingers. Then used that 1/4 inch ratchet with the flexible end. Great video and information.
The actuator near gas pedal controls vent, Defrost, Floor= [MODE ACTUATOR] The center actuator , is the BLEND DOOR actuator that controls hot or cold . THE ACTUATOR by passenger's feet controlS Vent or recirculation ONLY
Had this issue for about 15 years. Just had my ac fixed so i decided it was time to do this to get the full AC experience. Thanks for the extra detailed video.
Thank you for taking the time and extra effort to share your process in replacing this component. Certainly, it helps folks to know what they are up against and promotes DIY confidence . Very helpful, very informative! Brad R, Vancouver, Wa, USA
Thank you for this video. I’ve put this off for about 3 years now because I can’t figure it out and I am scared of getting it out and not being able to put the new one in. I’m also too afraid of taking apart my 26 year old dash because I know I’ll never get it out in one piece. I think I’ll attempt this now. Thanks again Frank
yup, I'm huge with huge hands and I've been listening to that thing for years now. Since the AC is original equipment and doesn't work, I'm now thinking about just snipping those wires from the top. done.. :)
Thanks for this, I watched your video and did mine. Instead of the top screw, I shoved a zip tie through the hole and wrapped the other end of it up in the frame around the relays just so it serves as an anchor point.
You have been very helpful. Headed to part store, to order my new actuater..... Your down to earth, personalty is refreshing. In a couple of days, I'm going to try my luck.. thank you
Dude love the reality of the video extremely helpful and down to earth normal person going through the same pain whoever else is changing out the part that needs the video. Thanks for being real
Pro tip: use a long flat blade screw driver and pry against back of 1/4” ratchet. It keeps enough pressure to back out screw the whole way and keep socket spinning as it gets loose.
That screw is the devil !!! I did the same thing cc did and broke it off then i did the same thing you did and put one screw in. Works good now . Thanks for the info .
30 year old truck so I just popped the top bolt. Now I don't have to worry anymore. It's old and brittle. Also replaced to blower motor as it sounded like the brakes were engaged
After watching the fight you had, I couldn’t even get a socket on the back screw. So I removed the first screw & took a large screwdriver under the actuator lifting up and the actuator popped right off leaving the small piece of plastic under the second screw. I’m not suggesting any one else try this but took 15 seconds for me.
I will probably do the same, two reasons, the old motor is no good anyways so if it breaks, oh well, and the other is having the old motor out of the way may make it easier to see and access that other screw, just my opinion
Thank you so much for this you made my job very easy! I had the same one fail in my truck but it had enough free wire to take out the bottom. I also left the back screw off and mine is working fine.👍🏽
I wonder if car engineers look at videos at this and snicker at our frustration. Good video, gonna buy one and attempt to get my oven mit hands scraped up this weekend. Thank you!!!
Response: Haha, maybe they do! But trust me, the satisfaction of fixing it yourself outweighs any temporary frustration or scraped knuckles. 💪😄 Remember, patience is key and you're learning something new in the process. Good luck with the actuator replacement this weekend, and feel free to share your experience or any follow-up questions. Thanks for your kind words and for watching!
7mm screws, not 9/32. I worked 3 friggin hours on that top screw-never did get it til i took my big screw driver and pried it off, breaking it. That 1 bottom screw is all you need anyways because mine now works great!
Wow that's a tough repair! On my 99 Tahoe I just made sure that the blend door was closed and removed the power plug from the actuator so I'm always on recirculate which is just fine since I live in Florida and never turned the recirculate off to let the outside air in.
This is still easier than a Crown Vic blend door actuator. Thanks for the detailed video, it's greatly appreciated. I'll be using some chewing gum to keep the second bolt in the socket (unless I find something to magnetize it).
Thank you so much for the kind words! I'm glad you found the video both informative and entertaining. I always try to add a touch of humor to make the process more enjoyable for everyone watching. 😄
You probably all ready got it but it take less then 5min. You need a 8-12in 1/4in with a 9/32 socket 🔧 and 8in long needle nose. So reach up and set the screw push it tight in the hole with your finger tips while your siting out side your door use your left hand to hold the wrench u will feel it sit on the nut test the your set while moveing the wrench side to side up and down to no your seated then slightly pushing it in then with your right hand and finger tips slide it up tords the back and grab the socket the u use your right hand to squeeze while slightly pushing it in then at the same time start with your fingers start wratcheting the wrench it may take a few times to get it started but after that it will go right in just snug it down and your done pretty easy. If u need any more info soot me a message. Hope this helps
Why is it always that actuator that fails? When I did mine I couldn't get to the tough screw. It needs two screws or it gets jacked up when it tries to operate. I'm not proud of how I made it work but after 5 years it still works. I stuffed a tennis ball up in there and it holds the actuator in place fine. A couple of years later I found a tool that would work perfect in that spot. It's called a Tite Reach. They have them in 1/4" and 3/8ths. I bought the 1/4" version with the intention of replacing thst screw but the tennis ball is doing just fine. I have used the Tite Reach several times with several projects.
I'm really glad you found the video detailed and helpful! 😊 Best of luck with your 1995 Silverado. Remember, take your time and follow each step carefully. 🚗🔧👍
We have our dash out bc we are replacing it and it was still a pain to get to. We got it out w a very small wrench- me turning from the top and my husband pushing on it from underneath. To get that top screw back in we had to move the computer out of the way. I used my nails to get it in place and turn it just enough to get it started. And then again he held pressure on the wrench from underneath while I turned from the top. I was the one saying just cut the wire the whole time though. Took us about 2 hours from start to finish with a lot of breaks for frustration.
another thing to help keep the screw there is that black windshield putty.. good sticky stuff and hold well if you just place a dap in the socket then add the screw in. Great job on the vid! thanks!
5.5 mm socket with swivel and cordless ratchet , flashlight and mirror may help. There's just enough room to pull it up through the glovebox to disconnect it! God I love workin on them dusty old trucks!
I've done so many of these door actuators on Chevy impalas...that...1. i just buy the plastic replacement gear that strips out and rebuild them myself...2. i install them with one or two screws...never all three screws. one screw will hold them in, but two is best.
I’m going to remove the plenum and replace the heater core, evaporator and all three actuators and be done with it. She has been good to me for almost 500,000 miles.
Glad you found my video helpful. I also put up a diagram on my website of all the air door locations www.buildpriceoption.com/air-door-actuator-locations-1988-94-chevy-and-gmc-truck/
The screw you are having trouble with Get about a 1 foot long piece of a vacuum line big enough that the screw head will fit in it tightly and start the screw. The vacuum line is flexible enough. Try it it will work an old mechanic trick.
My 02c when you are ready to insert the actuator, put all 3 screws in the actuator. Easiest way to explain how to retain them in the actuator is to explain where I got my idea. Look at an electrical wall plug. There are two screws attached to the plug that have a thin piece of plastic on them. They secure the plug to the plug box. I took 3 of those off some old plugs and put the screws through the actuator and secured them with these thin pieces of plastic. When you put the actuator in, and you have all 3 screws lined up. The two the author of this article got to are done first. The hard to reach one has to be literally pinched as hard as possible with the plastic because you do not want to "ratchet back" and have the screw go with the ratchet. So make sure the third screw is really jammed with the plastic. I broke 3 pieces of plastic from electrical plugs before I was able to get one that would hold the screw on the 2-3 clicks you get out of the ratchet. Then, hold your breath and tighten.
Great Video - I would have used electric tape to hold the screw in the socket - and A LOT OF PATIENTS TO GET IT IN THE HOLE. - I do have a small camera kit - installed on a flexible tube - it has a light and I could see the alignment of screw to the hole. LAST SCREW IS VERY TOUGH !!
I need to do this for my truck. I wonder if you can swap the original metal socket-like piece with the new actuator's plastic one? As for the back screw, I've also used a tiny drop of crazy glue on the screw head to keep it from falling off. Just a tiny amount is all you need. Thanks for the video!
A good way to get the screw in is to take a small piece of aluminum can and secure to the screw's threads holding screw in place on the actuator. Even a small amount of medium grade silicone sealant would work. Whatever you use keep in mind it might have to be changed out again one day so don't use a strong sealant like Masterseal NP1.
I just pulled the dash on my 94 to replace the evaporator took me 2hrs i was able to pull the passenger side out enough to get the hvac box out i never want to do this again.
I am about to do this to my 1993 Suburban. What if....I put a washer that would hold the screw in place, sorta get it started before I slide the blend door motor back into position. Then, just tighten it up? Or is even that to hard to reach? I figure if you can get a tool on to loosen then you can get one on to tighten. Is it just handling the screw that is the problem?
Try a drop of hot glue to hold the screw in place while you position the actuator, it will break loose when you put a wrench on it. Also if you can use a 1/4” air ratchet with a deep socket then it should be a piece of cake. Air ratchet 20.00 harbor freight.
I really like your detailed videos man. I put a whole new ac system in my 94 when I bought it and it blows semi cool air and weak air flow. Also when setting is on the face it still blows from the defrost and fogs up the windshield on the outside. I removed the blower motor and cleaned that out and cleaned the evaporator which was a job in itself especially in Texas heat. Well it did help with the air flow a bit and it seems a lot colder but it still blows from the defroster and fogs up the windshield. I know the 95 and up has the air flow distributor which you have to drop the dash and steering column and I heard it’s a pita to do. I’m not sure if the 94 and under have those. If not maybe it’s the actuator on the driver side floor board. I’m going to spray it with WD-40 and see if it helps, maybe it’s age it’s just not opening all the way. I hope that’s the case.
You are suppose to remove the Computer and computer holding bracket allowing you to get to the the top 9/32 screws to remove it. Then you'll have plenty of room to remove screws and wiring connector.
Good video! I'm going to try taping the screw to the actuator or using dum-dum to hold it to the actuator while installing it. I'll let you know how it goes.
I always keep an assortment of diff. lengths and sizes of thin vaccume tubong i usually find one that fits snug on the head of the screw push it to the flange on the screw then whilethere is pressure apply tiny drop of super glue on the hose and let the glue roll to the flange let it cry for a couple min . i was always in a hurry so i would huff and puff to dry it quicker the super glue seemes to aid in this because there isnt much of the screw to grip it with the hose because of that flange if done right then the glue will break off once the rubber changes form or slips off i use this method without super glue on bolts spark plugs pretty much anything hard to reach the bigger the hose the longer it can be but for what your doing id go with a foot of tubing just kinda use one hand to guide and hold position then udse the other to rotate the tubing
Thanks for making this video - helped me to get my truck fixed. The actuator failed and the mode door defaults to hot air only when it fails. I made a tool to get the door aligned with the new actuator. I used square stock (a broken 1/16 inch pin punch) that fit in hole in the actuator and into the slot on the door. I then used a tiny adjustable Swedish nut lathe (crescent wrench) to line things up. The square stock has to be cut 2 1/4 inches. Any longer and you can't get back out and shorter is, well too short to work. I took out the vents and the tape player as there was no way my sausage fingers were getting any where near the inboard bolt. My truck is an 1988 and the actuator was the original.
Perfect how to video! No way no how getting to it from top, at least on my 93 Silverado.. I was thinking no need to put the top bolt back in if I can get it out about the time you decided not to so yay! I was able to pull the actuator out the bottom and take wires off fyi.
couldn't get the last screw either. So now I got a rope attached to the flap door that runs up to a pully the attaches to a choke switch on the glove box, now when my girl wants that cool recirculating AC she can just pull on that rope.
Do you happen to have the part number for the actuator you used? I have a '93 Indy Pace Truck that has had the clicking since I purchased it in August. Drives me nuts! Couldn't find one on LMC, but Classic Parts has one listed as "Actuator Outside Air Valve Mode". Want to make sure it's the right one. Great video, BTW. I've not been to keen on replacing this, as I've heard it's a big pain and haven't found any videos to confirm/refute that claim. I've even completely removed my dash and replaced it and haven't wanted to tackle this project. You've given me inspiration and confidence.
I think you can do this job and I am glad my video helps. I couldn't find a super detailed video when I was looking, so I decided that I would tackle the project. You'll find all my repair videos to be super detailed. So many people leave out the little things and that's what totally helps. I got my part from LMC truck so the only part# I have is the one from them. I no longer have the factory part to see that part#. Here's the LMC part# and name: 39-2601 AIR DOOR ACTUATOR-AIR INLET (hope this helps)
@@BuildYourOwn I found a diagram that someone posted somewhere else from a Haynes manual. It is labeled as the "Recirculation Actuator" on it. I may try this sometime this weekend. Thanks again! www.gmtruckclub.com/threads/1992-silverado-mode-actuator-linkage.96299/#lg=thread-96299&slide=1
In case anyone else is curious, I just found the OEM part numbers for this part as well as the Dorman part number. OEM part numbers are 16149192 and 89018370. The Dorman replacement part is 604-103 and can be purchased on Amazon for less than $22.
Try a drop of hot glue to hold the screw in place while you position the actuator, it will break loose when you put a wrench on it. Also if you can use a 1/4” air ratchet with a deep socket then it should be a piece of cake. Air ratchet 20.00 harbor freight.
Yeah that one screw sux. I only put the bottom screw in and jammed a dense foam ball in the space which held it in place Later I found a tool called a Tite Reach that would make installing the screw simple.
I have been listening to my air door actuator for at least 10 years. I had no idea what the source of the noise was, figured it was some sort of vacuum-operated doohickey. It is good, sort of, to know the cause. I have a question: My heater core leaks, has for at least 12-13 years so I bypassed it. I live in Texas and there are probably less than 20 days a year that I actually need a heater so it hasn't been a big deal. If I remove all of the stuff I need to remove to replace the heater core, would that make replacing the actuator easier? Thanks for the vid. It is going to be a big help when I finally decide to fix my problem. Patience will be my biggest challenge. Thanks again.
I think I lasted two weeks (if that) listening to that clicking sound. I think if you're going to remove and replace the heater core, not only will you have better access, but you should be able to get at all the screws much easier. I wrote a good little article on the air door actuator locations on my website. Most importantly there's a great diagram of all three air door locations and even the heater core can be seen. You should check that out. Thanks for watching. www.buildpriceoption.com/air-door-actuator-locations-1988-94-chevy-and-gmc-truck/
I looked at it and decided don’t think I can get to it, I’ve had the thumping for the first 30 seconds after starting car 3 years now, pull the fuse in the summer, after seeing this video I’m going to try again
I'm currently replacing my dash with in 1993 Sierra K2500. Btw, all youtube videos on taking dash out are bs. You have to disconnect the inside wiring harness from the drivers side firewall, all under steering wheel and pull all electronics out of dash and then disconnect wiring harness passenger side just before it goes through firewall. That harness needs to be on new dash before you put it back in. LABEL, LABEL, LABEL. On this job with the actuator. Great video. I have to fix mine also. It will be easier for me since I took the dash out. F'n hard job. Anyway. Since you were able to get socket on top bolt screw to get it out, instead of taping to socket. Before you wiggle it back into place and tighten easier bottom nut screw. Put the top screw in just so the threads are start to stick out on back side and on that side melt some candle wax in there to hold that screw in place. Then wiggle that actuator back in there. Tighten bottom nut screw, then carefully get that socket on top and tighten it up. The wax won't hurt anything. Sorry for long comment.
Thanks for the top tips! I do not even want to think about taking the dash out of the truck. Thanks for watching. I'm going to work on the steering next..stay tuned.
1 year later, thank you! I will be attempting this very soon. I thought of slotting the screw hole also. The only info that you could have added was, if you remember still, is where exactly did you cut the slot, clock wise. 12, 11, 1.5... where would you recommend cutting the slot of you had to do it over again? Thank you again
Hi there! Thanks for taking the time to watch my video on the Air Door Actuator Replacement for a 1994 Chevy Cheyenne C1500. I'm glad you found it helpful and appreciate your kind words. Happy wrenching!
📍 Air door actuator locations for 1988-94 Chevy/GMC trucks: heater mode selector, heater blend door, and air inlet. Struggling with a faulty actuator? My blog post is the ultimate guide to help you diagnose & repair! 💪🔧 #GMC #TruckRepair
🔗 www.buildpriceoption.com/air-door-actuator-locations-1988-94-chevy-and-gmc-truck/
If you cut the slot where the screw goes on the very end, you can start the screw first then slide the actuator into place, then tighten the screws afterwards.
Good tip. Thanks
I was thinking of trying that. Will it let the actuator swing into place on the shaft? UPDATE: You were right after fighting that little bastard all the way out, I screwed it back in about 2/3 and cut a slot in the actuator. A little tricky getting it to line up ( I already had the blower motor removed so, it was easy to lift the door to align the shaft) But, well worth it. Thanks Armando! PS, it also helps if you cuss at it a lot.
Good to know. Ty!
Maybe start the top bolt first, with the part loose and lifted hand access may be easier. Then lower on pivot into place and seat it.
SO FYI... the problem with cutting the tab to make it a "slot" is... the actuator fits over the "shaft" of the door AND over the pin of the 3rd hole, and cannot slide into place... it cannot "pivot" either... there just is no room. YOU CAN get a little better tool... a 1/4 hex drive bit that is a "nut-driver" in 9/32 or 5.5mm works... you can cut the shaft of the bit to make it shorter and use the little "shallow" ratchet handle or a 1/4 ratcheting box end wrench on the bit... and a tiny neo-magnet stuck to the back of the bit holds the screw to the bit to reinstall...
Love how you even went out of your way to give extra detail cause no one does that anymore.. appreciate the video just fixed mine!
I appreciate that! It's all about the details
I'm about to fix mine now!
I used a 4 1/2” angle grinder to cut an approximately 1 1/2” wide x 3” high opening in the firewall in the engine compartment after taking a bunch of measurements as to where I needed the hole. I didn’t cut the side closest to the center of the vehicle just used it like a hinge. Then bent the little panel open and removed the screw. To close it up I hammered the flap shut and neatly applied a two pieces of silver aluminum tape. Works good, looks ok. This is a 30 year old work truck so no one will be taking pictures of my art work at a car show…
That's how I replaced my AC evaporator. Cut a hole in the firewall and pulled it out from the engine compartment. There is one small screw inside the case that has to be removed. Took a while to figure that out.
Put the screw through the hole . Slip a small o-ring on the backside holding it in place .Put your actuator in place then tighten the screw. This trick works on various applications. I keep all sizes of o-rings in my toolbox for this very reason . Hope this helps .
I just asked about that before reading the comments. Glad to see it works. This will be my plan for a first attempt.
I do a dab of dielectric on the shoulder of the bolt head myself
The trick is, take the entire dash out of the truck, then replace the screw.
Every issue I've ever ran into with my 91 Chevy Cheyenne 2500 you have had to deal with as well and when I'm lost on what or how to fix it so I highly appreciate you making all the videos u make .... Thank you so much
After all that work, it would drive me crazy not to have that last screw installed! Come on Frank! Be a hero and get it done. I saw a video and the guy taped the screw to a socket and got it started with his fingers. Then used that 1/4 inch ratchet with the flexible end. Great video and information.
The actuator near gas pedal controls vent, Defrost, Floor= [MODE ACTUATOR]
The center actuator , is the BLEND DOOR actuator that controls hot or cold .
THE ACTUATOR by passenger's feet controlS Vent or recirculation ONLY
Good stuff!
Ò What makes the blend go with the melon?
Thank you!
Had this issue for about 15 years. Just had my ac fixed so i decided it was time to do this to get the full AC experience. Thanks for the extra detailed video.
Glad it helped
Thank you for taking the time and extra effort to share your process in replacing this component. Certainly, it helps folks to know what they are up against and promotes DIY confidence . Very helpful, very informative!
Brad R, Vancouver, Wa, USA
Thank you for this video. I’ve put this off for about 3 years now because I can’t figure it out and I am scared of getting it out and not being able to put the new one in. I’m also too afraid of taking apart my 26 year old dash because I know I’ll never get it out in one piece. I think I’ll attempt this now.
Thanks again
Frank
yup, I'm huge with huge hands and I've been listening to that thing for years now. Since the AC is original equipment and doesn't work, I'm now thinking about just snipping those wires from the top. done.. :)
Thanks for this, I watched your video and did mine. Instead of the top screw, I shoved a zip tie through the hole and wrapped the other end of it up in the frame around the relays just so it serves as an anchor point.
You have been very helpful.
Headed to part store, to order my new actuater..... Your down to earth, personalty is refreshing.
In a couple of days, I'm going to try my luck.. thank you
Nice job! You are very articulate and detailed - which is needed when we attempt the same job.
Thank you so much and I hope the video helped
Dude love the reality of the video extremely helpful and down to earth normal person going through the same pain whoever else is changing out the part that needs the video. Thanks for being real
That's a clean truck. Great to see it.
Thank you!
Pro tip: use a long flat blade screw driver and pry against back of 1/4” ratchet. It keeps enough pressure to back out screw the whole way and keep socket spinning as it gets loose.
So happy to have this issue resolved. On to the next one!
That screw is the devil !!! I did the same thing cc did and broke it off then i did the same thing you did and put one screw in. Works good now . Thanks for the info .
30 year old truck so I just popped the top bolt. Now I don't have to worry anymore. It's old and brittle.
Also replaced to blower motor as it sounded like the brakes were engaged
After watching the fight you had, I couldn’t even get a socket on the back screw. So I removed the first screw & took a large screwdriver under the actuator lifting up and the actuator popped right off leaving the small piece of plastic under the second screw. I’m not suggesting any one else try this but took 15 seconds for me.
I will probably do the same, two reasons, the old motor is no good anyways so if it breaks, oh well, and the other is having the old motor out of the way may make it easier to see and access that other screw, just my opinion
All three have an alignment pin and two screws. That is what I found on my 96+ OBS trucks. BTW, great video.
They truly are a PIA! I believe 1 of them is different than the other two. I went to the yard to get mine. Pretest them before putting in.
Use longer screw with washers where screw sticks out enough to get socket on it
2:49 And this goes from the best video for me, to the best video for explaining how to make tutorials, just like that.
You're awesome, thank you!
@@BuildYourOwn www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1994/gmc/k1500/climate_control/air_flap_actuator.html
Thanks my 94 suburban doing the same thing your a life saver
Glad to help!
Thank you so much for this you made my job very easy! I had the same one fail in my truck but it had enough free wire to take out the bottom. I also left the back screw off and mine is working fine.👍🏽
I wonder if car engineers look at videos at this and snicker at our frustration. Good video, gonna buy one and attempt to get my oven mit hands scraped up this weekend. Thank you!!!
Response:
Haha, maybe they do! But trust me, the satisfaction of fixing it yourself outweighs any temporary frustration or scraped knuckles. 💪😄 Remember, patience is key and you're learning something new in the process. Good luck with the actuator replacement this weekend, and feel free to share your experience or any follow-up questions. Thanks for your kind words and for watching!
@@BuildYourOwn Thanks! I'll keep you updated!
Just pull the whole dash so you can replace all three actuators and the blender doors and heater core and evap core. Worth it. Cuss once cry once
Definitely more informative than any other video I’ve seen yet. Gives me more of an idea of what imma get myself into trying to replace it 🥶
Glad to hear it!
7mm screws, not 9/32. I worked 3 friggin hours on that top screw-never did get it til i took my big screw driver and pried it off, breaking it. That 1 bottom screw is all you need anyways because mine now works great!
Thanks, just bought my first truck a 1994 GMC Sierra SL 2500. Got the same problem, previous owner didn't know what the noise was either.
Thank you. I have to do the same one. I appreciate how through you were
Glad this video was helpful. I really wanted to do a more detailed video than what I was finding. Thanks for watching!
Thanks brother, I'm about to replace this actuator and the fan motor at the same time. I'm feeling pretty confident now after a few videos 😎
You're very welcome my friend. I hope the job goes smoothly for you.
Did the same my 1500 10 years ago and I didn't put the top screw in. Never had a problem.
Wow that's a tough repair! On my 99 Tahoe I just made sure that the blend door was closed and removed the power plug from the actuator so I'm always on recirculate which is just fine since I live in Florida and never turned the recirculate off to let the outside air in.
This is still easier than a Crown Vic blend door actuator.
Thanks for the detailed video, it's greatly appreciated.
I'll be using some chewing gum to keep the second bolt in the socket (unless I find something to magnetize it).
Thanks for watching! Someone just commented and said they used a 90-degree screwdriver.
Damn dude you save me a giant headache with this video dealt with my gfs gmc clicking for like 9 months thank you for your great video
That's awesome! Nine months is a long time to hear that clicking. I think I went a week or two. Thanks for watching and glad my video helped you out.
I like this video. Very entertaining. You have a good way of getting point across with some humor I thought
Thank you so much for the kind words! I'm glad you found the video both informative and entertaining. I always try to add a touch of humor to make the process more enjoyable for everyone watching. 😄
Great video. One of the most helpful I’ve seen for this truck. Thanks
Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm really glad to hear that you found the video helpful.
94 MODEL CHEVY GLOVE BOX CAME WITH ROLLING TRAY AND 2 BEER HOLDERS
You probably all ready got it but it take less then 5min. You need a 8-12in 1/4in with a 9/32 socket 🔧 and 8in long needle nose.
So reach up and set the screw push it tight in the hole with your finger tips while your siting out side your door use your left hand to hold the wrench u will feel it sit on the nut test the your set while moveing the wrench side to side up and down to no your seated then slightly pushing it in then with your right hand and finger tips slide it up tords the back and grab the socket the u use your right hand to squeeze while slightly pushing it in then at the same time start with your fingers start wratcheting the wrench it may take a few times to get it started but after that it will go right in just snug it down and your done pretty easy. If u need any more info soot me a message. Hope this helps
Thank you for this. Mine was draining my battery cause it stayed on after the truck was turned on. Thank you so dang much..
You are very welcome. And thank you for watching.
Why is it always that actuator that fails? When I did mine I couldn't get to the tough screw. It needs two screws or it gets jacked up when it tries to operate. I'm not proud of how I made it work but after 5 years it still works. I stuffed a tennis ball up in there and it holds the actuator in place fine.
A couple of years later I found a tool that would work perfect in that spot. It's called a Tite Reach. They have them in 1/4" and 3/8ths. I bought the 1/4" version with the intention of replacing thst screw but the tennis ball is doing just fine. I have used the Tite Reach several times with several projects.
Super good job, very detailed. I will try my 1995 Silverado soon.
I'm really glad you found the video detailed and helpful! 😊 Best of luck with your 1995 Silverado. Remember, take your time and follow each step carefully. 🚗🔧👍
We have our dash out bc we are replacing it and it was still a pain to get to. We got it out w a very small wrench- me turning from the top and my husband pushing on it from underneath. To get that top screw back in we had to move the computer out of the way. I used my nails to get it in place and turn it just enough to get it started. And then again he held pressure on the wrench from underneath while I turned from the top. I was the one saying just cut the wire the whole time though. Took us about 2 hours from start to finish with a lot of breaks for frustration.
another thing to help keep the screw there is that black windshield putty.. good sticky stuff and hold well if you just place a dap in the socket then add the screw in.
Great job on the vid! thanks!
Came here for the flap tip. I couldn't get it line up. Thanks!
You saved my butt with this video. Was able to do it easily after watching. Thanks so much!
Glad the video helped!
Mannnnnn thank you. My truck just doing this. I appreciate you brother
5.5 mm socket with swivel and cordless ratchet , flashlight and mirror may help. There's just enough room to pull it up through the glovebox to disconnect it!
God I love workin on them dusty old trucks!
Thanks for the tips!
I've done so many of these door actuators on Chevy impalas...that...1. i just buy the plastic replacement gear that strips out and rebuild them myself...2. i install them with one or two screws...never all three screws. one screw will hold them in, but two is best.
Thats awesome to know!
I’m going to remove the plenum and replace the heater core, evaporator and all three actuators and be done with it. She has been good to me for almost 500,000 miles.
this is uncle dig try securing screw in start position with silicone prior to replacing actuator good luck video very helpful
Glad you found my video helpful. I also put up a diagram on my website of all the air door locations www.buildpriceoption.com/air-door-actuator-locations-1988-94-chevy-and-gmc-truck/
Good job explaining this. Very detailed. Thanks
Thank you. I'm glad it was helpful.
I used the tire iron that is under the back seat and pried it out after removing The front bolt. It was then easy to remove the upper bolt.
The screw you are having trouble with
Get about a 1 foot long piece of a vacuum line big enough that the screw head will fit in it tightly and start the screw. The vacuum line is flexible enough. Try it it will work an old mechanic trick.
Thanks!! I just did it with hose and went right in!! Job done!
@@davidkelley5839
I'm glad that you found the tip helpful. Thanks David
Exactly what I did!
Thanks! This is an extremely good instructional video. Saved me a ton of time.
Thank you! I'm glad the video helped
I will have to do this before it gets cold. this video helps.
My 02c when you are ready to insert the actuator, put all 3 screws in the actuator. Easiest way to explain how to retain them in the actuator is to explain where I got my idea. Look at an electrical wall plug. There are two screws attached to the plug that have a thin piece of plastic on them. They secure the plug to the plug box. I took 3 of those off some old plugs and put the screws through the actuator and secured them with these thin pieces of plastic. When you put the actuator in, and you have all 3 screws lined up. The two the author of this article got to are done first. The hard to reach one has to be literally pinched as hard as possible with the plastic because you do not want to "ratchet back" and have the screw go with the ratchet. So make sure the third screw is really jammed with the plastic. I broke 3 pieces of plastic from electrical plugs before I was able to get one that would hold the screw on the 2-3 clicks you get out of the ratchet. Then, hold your breath and tighten.
You are right brother.. pain in the ass I'm doing mine right now 😂👍
I hope it went well!
Great Video - I would have used electric tape to hold the screw in the socket - and A LOT OF PATIENTS TO GET IT IN THE HOLE. - I do have a small camera kit - installed on a flexible tube - it has a light and I could see the alignment of screw to the hole. LAST SCREW IS VERY TOUGH !!
Well luckily this hasn't happened to me but I'll keep this in mind if it ever does thanks for the video!
Thank you for watching. I wasn't looking forward to this repair, but now I have the experience under my belt.
i just unplugged the bad one and said the hell with it. no more noise.
I need to do this for my truck. I wonder if you can swap the original metal socket-like piece with the new actuator's plastic one? As for the back screw, I've also used a tiny drop of crazy glue on the screw head to keep it from falling off. Just a tiny amount is all you need. Thanks for the video!
Well sonofabirch. Just did my blower motor and heater core, thought the clicking was the blower motor. Time to pull the dash apart again.
A part number would be great. Great video only one who actually helped!
A good way to get the screw in is to take a small piece of aluminum can and secure to the screw's threads holding screw in place on the actuator. Even a small amount of medium grade silicone sealant would work. Whatever you use keep in mind it might have to be changed out again one day so don't use a strong sealant like Masterseal NP1.
I just pulled the dash on my 94 to replace the evaporator took me 2hrs i was able to pull the passenger side out enough to get the hvac box out i never want to do this again.
I've super glued the screw into the socket to hold it from falling out.
The water pump, I would've done myself. This is the project you send to the shop.
I am about to do this to my 1993 Suburban. What if....I put a washer that would hold the screw in place, sorta get it started before I slide the blend door motor back into position. Then, just tighten it up? Or is even that to hard to reach? I figure if you can get a tool on to loosen then you can get one on to tighten. Is it just handling the screw that is the problem?
Try a drop of hot glue to hold the screw in place while you position the actuator, it will break loose when you put a wrench on it. Also if you can use a 1/4” air ratchet with a deep socket then it should be a piece of cake. Air ratchet 20.00 harbor freight.
I really like your detailed videos man. I put a whole new ac system in my 94 when I bought it and it blows semi cool air and weak air flow. Also when setting is on the face it still blows from the defrost and fogs up the windshield on the outside. I removed the blower motor and cleaned that out and cleaned the evaporator which was a job in itself especially in Texas heat. Well it did help with the air flow a bit and it seems a lot colder but it still blows from the defroster and fogs up the windshield. I know the 95 and up has the air flow distributor which you have to drop the dash and steering column and I heard it’s a pita to do. I’m not sure if the 94 and under have those. If not maybe it’s the actuator on the driver side floor board. I’m going to spray it with WD-40 and see if it helps, maybe it’s age it’s just not opening all the way. I hope that’s the case.
😊
Hell yes thank you brother😎🇺🇸👍
You are suppose to remove the Computer and computer holding bracket allowing you to get to the the top 9/32 screws to remove it. Then you'll have plenty of room to remove screws and wiring connector.
That's a top tip! Thank you.
Is that right? I’m about to put my 94 tall joe under the knife and am stocking my info arsenal to increase my success. Thanks
Good video! I'm going to try taping the screw to the actuator or using dum-dum to hold it to the actuator while installing it. I'll let you know how it goes.
Thank you. I just replaced mine thanks to this video.
I always keep an assortment of diff. lengths and sizes of thin vaccume tubong i usually find one that fits snug on the head of the screw push it to the flange on the screw then whilethere is pressure apply tiny drop of super glue on the hose and let the glue roll to the flange let it cry for a couple min . i was always in a hurry so i would huff and puff to dry it quicker the super glue seemes to aid in this because there isnt much of the screw to grip it with the hose because of that flange if done right then the glue will break off once the rubber changes form or slips off i use this method without super glue on bolts spark plugs pretty much anything hard to reach the bigger the hose the longer it can be but for what your doing id go with a foot of tubing just kinda use one hand to guide and hold position then udse the other to rotate the tubing
Thanks for making this video - helped me to get my truck fixed. The actuator failed and the mode door defaults to hot air only when it fails. I made a tool to get the door aligned with the new actuator. I used square stock (a broken 1/16 inch pin punch) that fit in hole in the actuator and into the slot on the door. I then used a tiny adjustable Swedish nut lathe (crescent wrench) to line things up. The square stock has to be cut 2 1/4 inches. Any longer and you can't get back out and shorter is, well too short to work. I took out the vents and the tape player as there was no way my sausage fingers were getting any where near the inboard bolt. My truck is an 1988 and the actuator was the original.
Perfect how to video! No way no how getting to it from top, at least on my 93 Silverado.. I was thinking no need to put the top bolt back in if I can get it out about the time you decided not to so yay! I was able to pull the actuator out the bottom and take wires off fyi.
Right on and glad it helped! Thank you for watching.
I got mite in with one of those 90 degrees screw drivers.
Pain in the bit but it worked
couldn't get the last screw either. So now I got a rope attached to the flap door that runs up to a pully the attaches to a choke switch on the glove box, now when my girl wants that cool recirculating AC she can just pull on that rope.
All 3 are different; 2, 4, and 5-pin connectors. I believe. After researching applicability at the parts store.
Truck looks good I've got a 91 z71 5.7 5 speed I done frame up rockers can corners and paint my self
Exactly the problem I have. Thanks.
Do you happen to have the part number for the actuator you used? I have a '93 Indy Pace Truck that has had the clicking since I purchased it in August. Drives me nuts! Couldn't find one on LMC, but Classic Parts has one listed as "Actuator Outside Air Valve Mode". Want to make sure it's the right one. Great video, BTW. I've not been to keen on replacing this, as I've heard it's a big pain and haven't found any videos to confirm/refute that claim. I've even completely removed my dash and replaced it and haven't wanted to tackle this project. You've given me inspiration and confidence.
I think you can do this job and I am glad my video helps. I couldn't find a super detailed video when I was looking, so I decided that I would tackle the project. You'll find all my repair videos to be super detailed. So many people leave out the little things and that's what totally helps. I got my part from LMC truck so the only part# I have is the one from them. I no longer have the factory part to see that part#. Here's the LMC part# and name: 39-2601
AIR DOOR ACTUATOR-AIR INLET (hope this helps)
@@BuildYourOwn I found a diagram that someone posted somewhere else from a Haynes manual. It is labeled as the "Recirculation Actuator" on it. I may try this sometime this weekend. Thanks again!
www.gmtruckclub.com/threads/1992-silverado-mode-actuator-linkage.96299/#lg=thread-96299&slide=1
In case anyone else is curious, I just found the OEM part numbers for this part as well as the Dorman part number. OEM part numbers are 16149192 and 89018370. The Dorman replacement part is 604-103 and can be purchased on Amazon for less than $22.
@@bugman72 you are a beast! Was so confused by the different ones dorman offers. Thank you very much for that part number
Try a drop of hot glue to hold the screw in place while you position the actuator, it will break loose when you put a wrench on it. Also if you can use a 1/4” air ratchet with a deep socket then it should be a piece of cake. Air ratchet 20.00 harbor freight.
Appreciate this Brother!
You're very welcome! I'm glad you found the video helpful. Happy wrenching, and thanks for watching! 👍🔧🚗
Hi sir@@BuildYourOwn
Yeah that one screw sux. I only put the bottom screw in and jammed a dense foam ball in the space which held it in place
Later I found a tool called a Tite Reach that would make installing the screw simple.
Excellent instructor. . . Do think I could run the truck removing and not replacing actuator? Its on back order.
Thanks
I have been listening to my air door actuator for at least 10 years. I had no idea what the source of the noise was, figured it was some sort of vacuum-operated doohickey. It is good, sort of, to know the cause. I have a question: My heater core leaks, has for at least 12-13 years so I bypassed it. I live in Texas and there are probably less than 20 days a year that I actually need a heater so it hasn't been a big deal. If I remove all of the stuff I need to remove to replace the heater core, would that make replacing the actuator easier? Thanks for the vid. It is going to be a big help when I finally decide to fix my problem. Patience will be my biggest challenge. Thanks again.
I think I lasted two weeks (if that) listening to that clicking sound. I think if you're going to remove and replace the heater core, not only will you have better access, but you should be able to get at all the screws much easier. I wrote a good little article on the air door actuator locations on my website. Most importantly there's a great diagram of all three air door locations and even the heater core can be seen. You should check that out. Thanks for watching. www.buildpriceoption.com/air-door-actuator-locations-1988-94-chevy-and-gmc-truck/
I looked at it and decided don’t think I can get to it, I’ve had the thumping for the first 30 seconds after starting car 3 years now, pull the fuse in the summer, after seeing this video I’m going to try again
Maybe use a piece of paper and screw in the top screw into the new actuator prior to installing it. It may hold it in position long enough to catch it
I'm currently replacing my dash with in 1993 Sierra K2500. Btw, all youtube videos on taking dash out are bs. You have to disconnect the inside wiring harness from the drivers side firewall, all under steering wheel and pull all electronics out of dash and then disconnect wiring harness passenger side just before it goes through firewall. That harness needs to be on new dash before you put it back in. LABEL, LABEL, LABEL. On this job with the actuator. Great video. I have to fix mine also. It will be easier for me since I took the dash out. F'n hard job. Anyway. Since you were able to get socket on top bolt screw to get it out, instead of taping to socket. Before you wiggle it back into place and tighten easier bottom nut screw. Put the top screw in just so the threads are start to stick out on back side and on that side melt some candle wax in there to hold that screw in place. Then wiggle that actuator back in there. Tighten bottom nut screw, then carefully get that socket on top and tighten it up. The wax won't hurt anything. Sorry for long comment.
Thanks for the top tips! I do not even want to think about taking the dash out of the truck. Thanks for watching. I'm going to work on the steering next..stay tuned.
1 year later, thank you! I will be attempting this very soon. I thought of slotting the screw hole also. The only info that you could have added was, if you remember still, is where exactly did you cut the slot, clock wise. 12, 11, 1.5... where would you recommend cutting the slot of you had to do it over again? Thank you again
good job men
Hi there! Thanks for taking the time to watch my video on the Air Door Actuator Replacement for a 1994 Chevy Cheyenne C1500. I'm glad you found it helpful and appreciate your kind words. Happy wrenching!
Thank you for this.
You are very welcome
I love this truck
beautiful truck
Thank you!