For the tripod high-res mode, you need to add a delay for the shot, like 1second (there is a setting in the menu for this). Otherwise when you press the shutter there are vibrations. And then there are lenses which produces relatively sharp images and lenses which are producing soft images. (You need to try more lenses). I got nice results with the high-res mode. The 80Mp images are a bit soft, but resized at 50Mp + sharpening will look good.
Thanks for putting this video up. Even though pixel shift has been implemented in various cameras. Trying to determine whether or not it can truly compete against a 45mp sensor is still debatable. That being said, as others have stated, something definitely is odd about the OLY tripod image. As someone that shoots on an EM1X and EM13, not only do I use the Hi-Res modes, I also create large (HI-RES panoramas) stitching multiple hi-res shots together and to say the least, the files are clean, tack-sharp, and most of all…color accurate. Rather than restate what others have said - since this video, have you done any other comparisons with the two cameras, in a different scenario? If so, I’d love to hear about that. Anyways, just happened to run into your channel (algorithm) as I’ve also been tempted to pick up a z72 to utilize my vintage FF glass.
Thanks for watching. To answer your question, no I haven’t but I have just received an OM1 mk2 from OM systems with the same zoom (in case mine has a fault). I’m off to Scotland next weekend so I’m going to test it again. All three cameras, and see what we get.
HighRes mode is for static scene and rippling water is not stationary but moving. Because of the moving water, the software cannot match the images exactly, so it will look like it is out of focus. If you try the same thing on a static scene, it will be a world of difference. With friendly regards.
Image stabilisation should be set to off. The problem with tripod high res mode is everything needs to be rock solid. A cable release is essential (you can see the movement in your 80mp image). Also, the best results require the use of OM System workspace.
Hi Dave, I think you mentioned at the beginning of the video you've used the EM1X with great success for macro and sport photography. The high res shots definitely look like there's some camera shake or sensor shake but I see a lot of comments below on various possibilities. I'll add another in there. Any chance the focus limiting in camera was on? I can imagine if you're shooting macro with the camera, you might have a setting where the focus is limited to very close objects. Doubt that it's the issue here. Or subject detection? As a bit of an exercise, I went back and looked at some older 16MP Olympus files that I had, albeit, they are now jpegs sitting in Apple Photos, so not a great comparison. Definitely, pixel peeping on those old files makes me want to go out and immediately buy a full frame for landscape, but they were good for social media, 8x10s, and occasionally up to 13x19inch prints. I can say that because my wife paints and she's used some of my photos and likes them printed at 13x19. I wonder also if the lens you have isn't a good copy. I'm guessing you are using different lenses for macro, landscape, and sports shooting. Personally, in your position, for landscape I think you've come to the right conclusion, even if you can sort out the EM1X to take better landscape photos. Those Nikon files you were showing looked quite nice.
Thanks Derek. It hasn’t got focus limiting on and I checked everything was in focus. I think you’re right there is some kind of movement showing. Thanks for your feedback
I shoot Sony A7 61mp FF. I also have Fuji X Pro 2 and OM 1 II. I am trying to understand what’s going wrong here. I really like my OM1 because the High Res, Focus stacking and HDR modes all work so well. The HHHR images from my OM1 really are very nice indeed. I have no complaints. I’m wondering if the issue here is the lens? Are you using an old beer bottle?
If your subject has no or very little movement the tripod mode can deliver great results. Though you might find that a lot of things have movement { wind moving vegetation , water, and so on} . I own both Nikon Z and m43 , the tripod mode can give very good results both regarding detail and colour , the HHHR gives a small increase in detail and a better improvement in noise etc. Both modes need careful sharpening. There are a couple of very good tutorials and how to guides on the m43 forum on DPreview by a poster called MEDISN, they are the most bookmarked in the forum so easy to find . I can't post a direct link as YT does not like it 😀
Thanks for explaining diffraction in a simple way! I’ve know of it, and how to avoid it with my cameras, but never heard anyone explain it in simple terms. Cheers! I also wasn’t aware of the difference a micro 4/3 sensor had on aperture compared to full frame. Life is constantly learning isn’t it. Great video 👍
Hello, I also had some issued with HighRes Shot at first. There are three further things, you should be aware off. a) You need a good lens. Only some are captable of that. Even some primes like the 25 mm F1.2 are not resolving enough. Most lenses deliver arround 20 MP, the cheap ones more for 16 or 12 MP. I'm quite happy with my 12-40 mm 2.8 and a 7.5 .. F3.5. b) The resolution in high res is different from normal shooting. The E-M1X has 10 MP in green and 5 MP in red and blue. With highres you get 20 MP in green, 20 MP in blue and 20 MP in red. So colored objects do much better, than resolution objects. Since the eye uses the green ones zo resolve fine detail. Also actually you should resize them to compare with your Nikon. c) These HighRes Files at least in CaptureOne need a lot of sharpening. You can do that, because they are so clean. But all in all I would say for your style the Z7 is better suited for Landscapes. With tripod you could even use a hasselblad 907 with an 100 MP digital back. The micro 4/3s style of shooting landscapes would be an OM-5 with maximum 2 lenses, so you can walk many many miles per day without regard to weather and take pictures on the go. But definetly no tripod. I never had issue regarding to low resolution for big prints. I personally use highres only for fisheyeultra wide angle indoor (real estate) for better definition if shadows and higher resolution. There you need more resolution because of defishing and it works great for that.
The moving waves makes this an unsuitable scene for the hi res system. It may be that the movement is preventing the camera from registering the frames properly
Also my thought - the camera tries to make the whole picture sharp, and can't 'see' that you want the jetty with houses sharp, and doesn't care about water and sky, which together with the beach make up the biggest part of the picture after all.
I just repeated your experiment, but just using an OM1 Mk2. The high res raw files looked awful in Lightroom, but much better in OM Workspace (and definitely better than the 20 MP versions of the same images). I don't think Lightroom is decoding the high res files correctly. So, from my small experiment, the high res modes do provide improved detail, provided they are edited in OM Workspace.
When you use a OM system it's mandatory to use another software for editing, because lightroom likes bigger sensors. I myself use DXO Photolab 8 and the results are amazing, Luminar NEO is good to. I use OM1 Mii btw
I can confidently say that I have not had such an awful outcome from handheld or tripod hi-res shots with my OM-1. There is some fundamental issue, whether it is Lightroom (which I detest, in spite of being told it is 'industry standard'), the EM-1x or your settings I don't know.
This makes a point of why Pixel peeping makes no sense because if you're making a print you will not see the difference and I will say also you will get better lenses that you can get closer for where you want it to with the Olympus then you go for your Nikon at any price.
I watched this video because I am deciding on my first digital between Olympus and Nikon, although it would be OM5 vs Z5. So, I liked and subscribed. I am looking forward to more videos.
m43 is a fun carry around secondary system. but it can never replace nikon full frame when it comes to image quality. the hi res mode is a nice hack but it's limited because nothing in your frame can move at all. also the lenses aren't really designed for 80mpx and they can't resolve at that resolution.
Hi from Oz again, there's no doubting the quality of Nikon products. I have just recently changed from Canon to OM-1 & have just returned from a trip in Japan & all/majority my images are totally pin sharp. I have been told that the OM-1 is a big improvement in the processing time for the hi-res shots but have heard of no bad quality as you have experienced. I have never had such poor images as your tests results show & cannot give an explanation why they are that way. Some are saying that OM System workspace should be used, I don't use it. I don't use Lightroom either but still I am completely happy with my results. It will be very interesting to see if a reason why is found.
I have owned numerous Olympus cameras and own a OM1 and Nikon Z8 the Z8 will outperform the Hi-Res on the Olympus. However what shutter mode were you using on the Olympus? You can have electronic (silent) or anti-shock. Your images may be suffering from shutter shock if its set to standard mode
I think a little expectation management is needed. The 80M image will not be as sharp as a native high res image. It is using clever maths to interpolate between multiple 20M images which are slightly offset from each other and infer what the missing pixels might be. It's similar to drizzling in astrophotography. It will extract more information than was in a single 20M file but it will not be the same (or close) to a native image.
Did my own tests involving a Nikon Z7 45 MPX FF camera, a Z6III 24 MPX FF and my OM-1, and testing the various pixel shift / high res modes on the Z6 and OM-1. Also threw in Topaz upscaling and Lightroom Enhanced resolution. The outcome? Of the high resolution images, the Z7 was clearly superior by a mile. In second place was Lightroom's AI upscaling, beating out the in camera OM and NX Studio Nikon multi-shot images, neither of which offered anything over the standard single shots. This was done in pretty much perfect conditions in my back garden. This supports the previous tests I've done - basically the right res modes offer little or nothing over post processing of a single image
Morning Dave, an interesting video, I'm looking forward to hearing Roger's feedback is on this one, as again I'm not sure that you've done the Olympus justice, having used the system for a number of years. A few items that you may wish to consider: * quality of glass - I didn't hear you mention which lens was used, but from the glimpses of the front element I wonder if it is one of the Pro range, if not I'd certainly look to upgrade to ensure that you get the benefit of the weather-proofing, this is also going to have a bearing upon the image quality * turn off image stabilisation if on a tripod, leaving on auto-IS is not the same * you didn't appear to be using any shutter release or delay, so physically pressing the shutter button could introduce some movement, that I accept was the same on each camera but the way high-res mode works could exaggerate this However, as someone else has already commented, I think that the biggest thing could be that the camera is getting confused as it is trying to align the various frames when part of the image is moving, so it would be interesting if you were to repeat the test (yet) again but maybe on a static scene. If this is the case then I accept that if seascapes is your thing then the Olympus high-res mode may not be for you. I've used it for static landscape images and been very impressed with the outcome. Having said all of the above, you may well find that the Nikon is still best for landscapes. As you rightly said, the Olympus excels at macro and some of the computational tools that assist for wildlife & sports photography, the gear is also a lot smaller & lighter to carry, something to bear in mind when hiking around Glencoe and wanting to carry a range of lenses. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Adam, that’s a great comment and good advice. It was a 12-45 f4 Pro lens on the front so it should be fine. I thought I’d read somewhere that IS was turned off automatically by the camera when doing High Res but to my eye there is movement on the Olympus files. However this was the same for the handheld High Res and the straight 20mp shot. I’m sure there are better results to be had and I’m definitely keeping the system for other types of photography. Thanks for commenting
@@davepeckphotography I've just been watching the below video, and you are correct that in-body image stabilisation is automatically turned off when in High Res mode, however it does go on to say that if you've not turned off the lens stabilisation this will override the body default which I wouldn't have expected. Not sure if your lens has option to turn on / off (my 12-100 Pro does) but may be worth checking. Clearly you're using a quality lens so the issue you've encountered hasn't been caused by that. Interestingly this video also says "tripod high res requires a still subject, subject movement results in artefacts, blur or a failure to create a composite". It also says to use the self timer or a remote trigger ua-cam.com/video/Tx4kediHix4/v-deo.htmlsi=BPTcwCNeCYMk9Fuw I was surprised to see that it says to use ISO 80, whereas like you I've always ended to use the 'recommended 200'. There is a section in the video where he covers 'movement' but alas it's not possible to see how sharp the static elements of the image are. Every day is a school day, and your video has prompted me to learn something.
LORDY! Not sure what you are doing wrong here, but something is going wrong. I mean I 100% percent handhold my high resolution shots and my results are always stellar. But I'm always using pro glass like my 17mm 1.2.
Another thought. The RAW file of the high res Olympus images is a complex one. It embeds the first image in full, then the composite. I have seen reports that Lightroom does not render these properly. Photoshop does apparently.
You can take the Olympus hi-res tripod at 1/15 shutter, I have done this with water and it has worked, but there was a lot of static rocks in the scene too (not sure that matters). But I have had a similar experience with olympus Hi-Rez being soft; my Panasonic GH6 high Rez mode looks much much better than my olympus EM 1 mark iii Hi-Rez mode.
Echos my findings- Oly hi-res modes do not create a sharp result. Standard 20mb files are far sharper!! Love my OM Systems cameras but have given up using HHHR or tripod HR .
I've compared the output from the Z8 (45MP) and OM1.2 20MP, 50MP and 80MP and the Nikon always looks far better. Add the fact that Z8 can take it's own hi-res mode and it's simply no contest. However, that doesn't mean the OM1 is bad, I love that camera, but for shots that I want to print big OR crop the hell out of, the Nikon takes the day every time. For macro, I could use either one quite happily. Where the OM1 wins is in the computational modes (LiveTime and LiveComp, Live ND and Live GND) that the Nikon simply doesn't have. I'm not biased and love both systems, but they each have their strengths and weaknesses.
Very nicely summarised. I’m feeling the same. I’ve got an OM system coming to try so I can check other lenses and a new body. Still love the system though for all the reasons you mention
Olympus had always recommended that IBIS need to be turned off when the camera is on a tripod, high res or not. In high res, the camera shifts the sensor to create the multiple shots. If you have left IBIS on, it will certainly compromise the camera's ability to create the multiple shots!
Well,I’ll,throw my 2 pence in. 1/ use a pro lens 2/ turn off image stabilisation to be totally sure 3/ use manual focus and use magnify to get image tack sharp 4/ set the 2 second timer 5/ hold your breath 6/ view at home a superior image than Nikon or at least as good 7/ I totally recommend using manual focus to be absolutely sure it’s in focus 8/ good luck, I wish you well. Be good to get another m43 ambassador on YT
The poor results you got with the Olympus may be due to not turning off the IBIS when the camera was on a tripod. However, that said it has been reported by others that the hires images require more sharpening than the original 20mp files. I would be interested in your thoughts.
I’m a z7ii and em1 iii owner. What’s gone on is your comparing apples with oranges You can’t do a seascape in hi res mode and am I rite in thinking your only judging the image by its sharpness ? It’s like saying the best wine is the strongest, just stand at normal viewing distance and enjoy your image because Olympus cameras render some great looking photos.
@@davepeckphotography maybe your iPhone is best in the correct scenario but I’m not saying use your IPhone I’m saying use the correct tool for the job, and showing that a dedicated sports and wildlife camera isn’t as good at landscapes as an almost dedicated landscape camera is proving nothing, there is no such thing as a Swiss army knife of cameras they each have there own benefits and shortfalls. And they both take great pics
Something weard: in film you see Nikon at the left Olympus on the right. In Photoshop the position of the Nikon is on the right Olympus on the left. Look for th two poles ontheft foreground
I found it us best to process the Olympus High Resolution photos in Olympus Workspace and export a tiff to Lightroom. Lightroom does not do the High Resolution Olympus very well.
This is a very timely video as I was really disappointed when shooting the super moon the other day using Hi-res on my EM1 MK II on a tripod with a 4 second shutter delay. I had a really blurry result and tried 10 times. The standard 20 mega pixel images were fine and sharp So watched your video and thought I had the same result that you got so its a rubbish gimmick but then read the comments and thought how can other people be getting better results. So just set up the camera in the kitchen with the same lens I used for the moon shot. I cycled through the Sequential Shooting / Timer option to set the 4 second delay but came across a dedicated hi-res mode option which I selected. I made sure that IBIS was off took a photo of some net curtains and wow detail not blur. I also shot a comparison 20 mega pixel shot. This is not a scientific test so will try an outdoor shot this week to see if I get a better result but worth checking out the hi-res option in the sequential Shooting menu in the SCP. If I had not seen you video I would not have tried the test and would probably have never used hi-res mode again so thanks. Ill make another comment if the outdoor text works out.
@@StuartAnderton Correct but I did actually get a sharper image of the moon last night using the Olympus 40-150 plastic fantastic and will try again tonight weather permitting and also spending a bit more time on set up.
I think you should do that test again with a screen test chart at home just to make sure there is nothing wrong with the camera, I would set the cameras on manual and use at least a two second timer! your test made my very basic camera look good. Best wishes and safe travels......(with your Nikon, leave the other at Home)
I believe you are trying your best, but the results you are getting do not match my experience of m43. I went from Canon 5D IV 32MP to OM1 mk1, after 40 happy years with Canon, and find the OM to be sharp (and half the weight). I generally shoot hand held 50MP unless there is movement in the scene and then review result at 200% to eliminate anything that is not pin sharp. There are so many variables that might be affecting your results I cannot begin to identify your issues. Maybe the lens, maybe settings, maybe your older camera is not working as well as my OM1. I found Lightroom and ON1 to be bad with my OM1. The free OM sw is better but DXO is best so far. But Lightroom cannot be 100% the reasons for soft results. My first results with OM where not great. It did take me a few weeks to consistently get sharp results, but I am glad I persisted. My 50MP are probably not as sharp as a real 50MP sensor, but I can easily beat a 32MP camera on a tripod while hand-holding my OM1. Anyway, well done for trying.
You mention 80mpixel files.. I must be doing something wrong because I can only get 25/50 pixel files in hi-res mode... Whether in handheld or tripod setting. Any advise anyone?
Well done for having another go. I have a om5 and the 12 to 45 f4 and it is really sharp. The only suggestion I can make is see if the firmware is up to date, being an older model they may have improved hi res over time. The Nikon looks great.
Thank you, I haven’t updated that actually. Fingers crossed I’ve got a new kit coming on loan from Olympus so let’s see how that is. Thanks for watching
@@davepeckphotography In which case you are doing something very wrong. Hi res modes are tricky and can disappoint but standard mode should be tack sharp, albeit at a lower resolution.
I also have an OM1. I think you aren’t far off, HHHR images aren’t far off my old 47mp Sony but definitely more detailed than my 24 mp Fuji. They look good.
OM ambassador please reach out and go out to demonstrate OM1 (either) as titles on these videos and the apparent results will put off people who potentially could adopt system
Sorry, in what way does the title put people off? Is it because you don’t like the results? Not rigged just as I saw it. For your information I have a new kit coming on loan from Olympus which will feature in a new video but you’ll need to be grown up enough to see the evidence in an unbiased way rather than some love struck fan boy that you seem to be coming across as.
I note u removed a constructive reply and kept your reactive insulting one prior to it. Putting stuff out there particularly a comparison is bound to get a reaction. Apart from the odd troll or idiot comments are constructive. Don't insult your watchers when they are being objective.
@mutley3136 actually no I didn’t, I removed my reply. And in what way was your post constructive? What bit of the title would give the OM system a bad reputation? I was quite happy for the Olympus to be just as good as the Nikon or better but the fact that, in my opinion, results were worse is the reality of things. Go back and check out all the people telling me I am a rookie, I don’t know what I’m doing, I’m naff etc, I think I’m allowed to reply? I never get this vitriol from other system users. I’ve had some very constructive feedback but saying I need an OM ambassador to help me (which you implied) I find a little insulting after 1) 45 years as a photographer 2) I have already had long discussions with Roger Hance and 3) my review on the macro capabilities of Olympus was very positive. I welcome constructive criticism, fire away but an implication that I can’t work a camera properly is rude and disrespectful
I just did a quick test with my EM1 mk2 on a tripod using the Sigma 56mm prime at f5.6 of the church steeple some distance away. Shot 1. IBIS on, shot 2. IBIS off, shot 3. 50mp HR (automatically turns IBIS off). Image magnified 14x on the back of the camera, shot 1 good, shot 2 marginally better, shot 3 much better and totally sharp. Opened in LR and the standard res was quite a bit sharper than the HR image, both shot in RAW. Opened in OM WS and the HR images was slightly cleaner and sharper than the standard image. OM WS is a bit of a fag. I guess if you really want HR buy a better sensor and I would imagine the Nikon would totally clean up in that respect.
Thanks for that. And thanks for taking the time. I’ve got an OM1mk2 coming and another 12-40 to see if there’s a problem with the lens or body so I’ll be interested to see how that goes. I’ll try a scene without any movement in it as well.
@@davepeckphotography I dont think its much to do with movement. Its just stitching photos together, so the still objects remain still and should be sharp, any way I was a little surprised that LR couldnt handle it, kinda confirmed my own experience in the field. I would often take a standard image and HR image and end up picking the standard image.
@zardosspinosa6944 I’m sure you’re right but that’s been one of the suggestions. The only thing I can think of is it’s trying to match up and align the waves, which they obviously won’t
I bought an Olympus, very disappointing knew it would not be as good as my Canon R5, but the Olympus is very noisy even at low iso, my old Sony A5100 is better than the Olympus!
Is that a joke? The high resolution images of my Olympus cameras are a thousand times better than the ones you show here! Is this Nikon propaganda? I don't understand these results, not even if the photos were taken by a Parkinson's patient.
To be honest I was surprised but no it’s not a joke. I’ve shown you it live, explained the settings and shown the results in LR. If you have any suggestions fire away
Have you tried this with manuel focus use the magnifiek for exact focusing. On tripod use the tripod setting if not image stabilsation still will activate and you get unsharp pictures.
All pixel shift modes fall apart when too much movement is involved in the scene . Your post is uncalled for and sadly typical BS that the OM fanboys spout . The pixel shift features are new to many and require some practice and refine to get the best from
@@TRUSKY1965 I have an EM1 mark 3 and GH6, my Olympus has always looked extremely soft compared to my GH6…and I am an Olympus fan boy, so no bias here; I have had my Olympus for years before I got the GH6, I was blown away when I got my GH6 and took high res shots, they were way better than my Olympus
I have an OM-D E-M1 Mark II wirh a 12-40 pro lens and it's pin sharp on my landscape shots I even have some hand held of Southwold pier better than your attempt with the Olympus. Agree it's not the best for noise/resolution but very good. Interestingly I had an issue last year in Wales photographing the red kites. I lent my spare camera to my wife with a 40-150 and she was getting sharp shots I had a 300mm f4 and my shots were not sharp. I tried everything and was getting very frustrated I then in desperation took off the Hoya pro UV filter and it resolved the issue. I will never use a UV filter again.
Or get a decent UV filter. Used a UV filter for over 40 years, saved 3 or 4 lenses in that time and if they are decent quality and kept in good shape they should last a few years. No reason that they should make your shots soft, unless the quality isn't there. And no point going down the "another piece of glass in the way" argument. Lenses now have far more glass than they used to....
My om-1 mk2 hhhr can not match my Z8, or my GFX 50Smk2.. But your image look too soft, I use HHHR a lot with 12-40 f2.8 pro stop down@ F8, my image look a lot sharper than yours.
@@davepeckphotography Look for "AF Focus Adj" in the Olympus Manual PDF. It may improve phase detect AF. Nikon use Phase Detect and Contrast Auto Detect.
Looks like you repeated the typical HR rookie mistakes. Olympus HR/HHHR files need more aggressive sharpening and you didn’t use proper tripod technique with shutter delay (apparent motion artifacts). Yes the Nikon ought to be easier to use and more tolerant of less than perfect technique, which in itself makes it a better choice perhaps but it would a better comparison still if you had used proper shooting and post processing techniques. It takes away the credibility of your comparative effort unfortunately.
To be honest, you didn’t know how to use that EM-1X properly. To do a demonstration like that is very misleading and very unfair to the m43 community. I suggest you increase the shutter speed for your hand-held high res shots and compare them in a static scene and compare them side by side. There is no way the 80 megapixel image will be outperformed by the 45 megapixels Nikon. I own both and OM-1 and a Nikon Z9 and I know with static scenes, this is not the result we will see.
Hi from Oz again, I forgot to add this link from a guy that recently made a similar comparison, he does does emphasis the need for good glass, the guys name is Gavin Hardcastle who does some incredible work. I'm at a loss as to why your Oly pics were so poor, no conspiracy theories from me mate, I really enjoy your channel but I'm also so pleased I changed from Canon to Olympus. Please have a look at the video clip if you get time. Horses for Courses mate 👍 ua-cam.com/video/5dZrL4YNILA/v-deo.htmlsi=CxtKXY2ar4jbU32b
Thanks George, and thanks for the link! I follow Gavin and I’ve seen that video. His images with that 150-400 are stunning and he talks a lot of sense regarding resolution. So much so that I’m interested in looking at switching. I admit I was very surprised at my own results and I disagree with previous posters that it’s my technique. My only explanation is that there is a disparity between the relatively new Z sensor and the m4/3 sensor in the EM1X which is older. I’ve got similar kit to Gavin coming imminently (minus the 150-400) and I’m keen to use it on several shoots and then make a decision. Thanks for checking in and thanks for the link. Watch this space!
For the tripod high-res mode, you need to add a delay for the shot, like 1second (there is a setting in the menu for this). Otherwise when you press the shutter there are vibrations.
And then there are lenses which produces relatively sharp images and lenses which are producing soft images. (You need to try more lenses).
I got nice results with the high-res mode. The 80Mp images are a bit soft, but resized at 50Mp + sharpening will look good.
Got an Om1mk2 and a load of lenses coming next week to try out including another 12-40 (mine is a 12-45 on this test)
Thanks for putting this video up. Even though pixel shift has been implemented in various cameras. Trying to determine whether or not it can truly compete against a 45mp sensor is still debatable. That being said, as others have stated, something definitely is odd about the OLY tripod image.
As someone that shoots on an EM1X and EM13, not only do I use the Hi-Res modes, I also create large (HI-RES panoramas) stitching multiple hi-res shots together and to say the least, the files are clean, tack-sharp, and most of all…color accurate.
Rather than restate what others have said - since this video, have you done any other comparisons with the two cameras, in a different scenario?
If so, I’d love to hear about that.
Anyways, just happened to run into your channel (algorithm) as I’ve also been tempted to pick up a z72 to utilize my vintage FF glass.
Thanks for watching. To answer your question, no I haven’t but I have just received an OM1 mk2 from OM systems with the same zoom (in case mine has a fault). I’m off to Scotland next weekend so I’m going to test it again. All three cameras, and see what we get.
HighRes mode is for static scene and rippling water is not stationary but moving. Because of the moving water, the software cannot match the images exactly, so it will look like it is out of focus. If you try the same thing on a static scene, it will be a world of difference.
With friendly regards.
I was wondering that. I’ll try it on a static subject
@@egegon7704 not to mention the pier is moving as well from the ocean
Image stabilisation should be set to off. The problem with tripod high res mode is everything needs to be rock solid. A cable release is essential (you can see the movement in your 80mp image). Also, the best results require the use of OM System workspace.
Thank you
2 sec delay - or longer - is just as effective as cable release
Hi Dave, I think you mentioned at the beginning of the video you've used the EM1X with great success for macro and sport photography. The high res shots definitely look like there's some camera shake or sensor shake but I see a lot of comments below on various possibilities. I'll add another in there. Any chance the focus limiting in camera was on? I can imagine if you're shooting macro with the camera, you might have a setting where the focus is limited to very close objects. Doubt that it's the issue here. Or subject detection?
As a bit of an exercise, I went back and looked at some older 16MP Olympus files that I had, albeit, they are now jpegs sitting in Apple Photos, so not a great comparison. Definitely, pixel peeping on those old files makes me want to go out and immediately buy a full frame for landscape, but they were good for social media, 8x10s, and occasionally up to 13x19inch prints. I can say that because my wife paints and she's used some of my photos and likes them printed at 13x19.
I wonder also if the lens you have isn't a good copy. I'm guessing you are using different lenses for macro, landscape, and sports shooting.
Personally, in your position, for landscape I think you've come to the right conclusion, even if you can sort out the EM1X to take better landscape photos. Those Nikon files you were showing looked quite nice.
Thanks Derek. It hasn’t got focus limiting on and I checked everything was in focus. I think you’re right there is some kind of movement showing. Thanks for your feedback
I shoot Sony A7 61mp FF. I also have Fuji X Pro 2 and OM 1 II.
I am trying to understand what’s going wrong here. I really like my OM1 because the High Res, Focus stacking and HDR modes all work so well.
The HHHR images from my OM1 really are very nice indeed. I have no complaints.
I’m wondering if the issue here is the lens? Are you using an old beer bottle?
😂😂 not intentionally! It’s a 12-45 f4 pro
also had an OM-1 but just had problems with the highres mode 89mp as it will create artifacts
If your subject has no or very little movement the tripod mode can deliver great results. Though you might find that a lot of things have movement { wind moving vegetation , water, and so on} . I own both Nikon Z and m43 , the tripod mode can give very good results both regarding detail and colour , the HHHR gives a small increase in detail and a better improvement in noise etc. Both modes need careful sharpening. There are a couple of very good tutorials and how to guides on the m43 forum on DPreview by a poster called MEDISN, they are the most bookmarked in the forum so easy to find . I can't post a direct link as YT does not like it 😀
Thanks for explaining diffraction in a simple way! I’ve know of it, and how to avoid it with my cameras, but never heard anyone explain it in simple terms. Cheers! I also wasn’t aware of the difference a micro 4/3 sensor had on aperture compared to full frame. Life is constantly learning isn’t it. Great video 👍
Thank you very much for taking the time to comment. All the best Dave
I have an om1 and I think the instruction is to turn off camera IS if you have the camera on a tripod especially with Hi Res shots
Correct - if IS is on while on a tripod the IS will still be working and it can cause softness
Hello, I also had some issued with HighRes Shot at first. There are three further things, you should be aware off.
a) You need a good lens. Only some are captable of that. Even some primes like the 25 mm F1.2 are not resolving enough. Most lenses deliver arround 20 MP, the cheap ones more for 16 or 12 MP. I'm quite happy with my 12-40 mm 2.8 and a 7.5 .. F3.5.
b) The resolution in high res is different from normal shooting. The E-M1X has 10 MP in green and 5 MP in red and blue.
With highres you get 20 MP in green, 20 MP in blue and 20 MP in red. So colored objects do much better, than resolution objects. Since the eye uses the green ones zo resolve fine detail. Also actually you should resize them to compare with your Nikon.
c) These HighRes Files at least in CaptureOne need a lot of sharpening. You can do that, because they are so clean.
But all in all I would say for your style the Z7 is better suited for Landscapes. With tripod you could even use a hasselblad 907 with an 100 MP digital back.
The micro 4/3s style of shooting landscapes would be an OM-5 with maximum 2 lenses, so you can walk many many miles per day without regard to weather and take pictures on the go. But definetly no tripod. I never had issue regarding to low resolution for big prints.
I personally use highres only for fisheyeultra wide angle indoor (real estate) for better definition if shadows and higher resolution. There you need more resolution because of defishing and it works great for that.
Thank you for your comment that’s very useful. Pretty much decided therefore that the Nikon is better for landscapes
@@davepeckphotography which lens did you actually use?
@Daniel-o1l2e I used the 12-45 f4 Pro
Really interesting, I'll try with the 12-40 F2.8 today and see what I get.
@@davepeckphotography The 12-45 is a well resolving lens. F5.6 is near the sweet spot. Well done.
The moving waves makes this an unsuitable scene for the hi res system. It may be that the movement is preventing the camera from registering the frames properly
Also my thought - the camera tries to make the whole picture sharp, and can't 'see' that you want the jetty with houses sharp, and doesn't care about water and sky, which together with the beach make up the biggest part of the picture after all.
Hi Dave, which lens do you use on the Olympus/OM System? Maybe it‘s not sharp enough for pixel peeping. 😉
It’s the 12-45 Pro. Got another one coming and an OM1
Try processing the High Res images with OM Workspace, it has been reported that Lightroom does not handle these well resulting in blurred images.
Affinity Photo 2 also does a good job. I think you are spot on about Lightroom.
I just repeated your experiment, but just using an OM1 Mk2.
The high res raw files looked awful in Lightroom, but much better in OM Workspace (and definitely better than the 20 MP versions of the same images).
I don't think Lightroom is decoding the high res files correctly.
So, from my small experiment, the high res modes do provide improved detail, provided they are edited in OM Workspace.
Ok, that’s interesting to know. I’ve got an OM1 mk2 coming so I’ll give it a try. Thank you
When you use a OM system it's mandatory to use another software for editing, because lightroom likes bigger sensors. I myself use DXO Photolab 8 and the results are amazing, Luminar NEO is good to. I use OM1 Mii btw
I can confidently say that I have not had such an awful outcome from handheld or tripod hi-res shots with my OM-1. There is some fundamental issue, whether it is Lightroom (which I detest, in spite of being told it is 'industry standard'), the EM-1x or your settings I don't know.
This makes a point of why Pixel peeping makes no sense because if you're making a print you will not see the difference and I will say also you will get better lenses that you can get closer for where you want it to with the Olympus then you go for your Nikon at any price.
I watched this video because I am deciding on my first digital between Olympus and Nikon, although it would be OM5 vs Z5. So, I liked and subscribed. I am looking forward to more videos.
Thank you Paul!
If you're thinking about getting a new OM5 because of budgetary concerns, look at used Om1s. They are roughly the same price at places like MPB.
m43 is a fun carry around secondary system. but it can never replace nikon full frame when it comes to image quality. the hi res mode is a nice hack but it's limited because nothing in your frame can move at all. also the lenses aren't really designed for 80mpx and they can't resolve at that resolution.
Ok, I think its some sort of movement to be fair to the Olympus but I'm not sure where it's coming from
Hi from Oz again, there's no doubting the quality of Nikon products. I have just recently changed from Canon to OM-1 & have just returned from a trip in Japan & all/majority my images are totally pin sharp. I have been told that the OM-1 is a big improvement in the processing time for the hi-res shots but have heard of no bad quality as you have experienced. I have never had such poor images as your tests results show & cannot give an explanation why they are that way. Some are saying that OM System workspace should be used, I don't use it. I don't use Lightroom either but still I am completely happy with my results.
It will be very interesting to see if a reason why is found.
I have owned numerous Olympus cameras and own a OM1 and Nikon Z8 the Z8 will outperform the Hi-Res on the Olympus. However what shutter mode were you using on the Olympus? You can have electronic (silent) or anti-shock. Your images may be suffering from shutter shock if its set to standard mode
I didn’t know there was a setting for that, I’ll check
I think a little expectation management is needed. The 80M image will not be as sharp as a native high res image. It is using clever maths to interpolate between multiple 20M images which are slightly offset from each other and infer what the missing pixels might be. It's similar to drizzling in astrophotography. It will extract more information than was in a single 20M file but it will not be the same (or close) to a native image.
Thanks Stuart, I think that may be a good point
Did my own tests involving a Nikon Z7 45 MPX FF camera, a Z6III 24 MPX FF and my OM-1, and testing the various pixel shift / high res modes on the Z6 and OM-1. Also threw in Topaz upscaling and Lightroom Enhanced resolution.
The outcome? Of the high resolution images, the Z7 was clearly superior by a mile. In second place was Lightroom's AI upscaling, beating out the in camera OM and NX Studio Nikon multi-shot images, neither of which offered anything over the standard single shots.
This was done in pretty much perfect conditions in my back garden.
This supports the previous tests I've done - basically the right res modes offer little or nothing over post processing of a single image
Interesting stuff. But I’m still surprised how bad the Olympus looks. I’ve got new OM gear coming so I can test it again
Just a thought, are you using a pro lens with the manual clutch set to manual focus and not auto focus?
Yes, I think I did both actually
The Olympus automatically turns off IS in this mode.
But I note that some have found that IS in the LENS can mess it up.
Morning Dave, an interesting video, I'm looking forward to hearing Roger's feedback is on this one, as again I'm not sure that you've done the Olympus justice, having used the system for a number of years.
A few items that you may wish to consider:
* quality of glass - I didn't hear you mention which lens was used, but from the glimpses of the front element I wonder if it is one of the Pro range, if not I'd certainly look to upgrade to ensure that you get the benefit of the weather-proofing, this is also going to have a bearing upon the image quality
* turn off image stabilisation if on a tripod, leaving on auto-IS is not the same
* you didn't appear to be using any shutter release or delay, so physically pressing the shutter button could introduce some movement, that I accept was the same on each camera but the way high-res mode works could exaggerate this
However, as someone else has already commented, I think that the biggest thing could be that the camera is getting confused as it is trying to align the various frames when part of the image is moving, so it would be interesting if you were to repeat the test (yet) again but maybe on a static scene. If this is the case then I accept that if seascapes is your thing then the Olympus high-res mode may not be for you. I've used it for static landscape images and been very impressed with the outcome.
Having said all of the above, you may well find that the Nikon is still best for landscapes. As you rightly said, the Olympus excels at macro and some of the computational tools that assist for wildlife & sports photography, the gear is also a lot smaller & lighter to carry, something to bear in mind when hiking around Glencoe and wanting to carry a range of lenses.
Keep up the great work.
Thanks Adam, that’s a great comment and good advice. It was a 12-45 f4 Pro lens on the front so it should be fine. I thought I’d read somewhere that IS was turned off automatically by the camera when doing High Res but to my eye there is movement on the Olympus files. However this was the same for the handheld High Res and the straight 20mp shot.
I’m sure there are better results to be had and I’m definitely keeping the system for other types of photography.
Thanks for commenting
@@davepeckphotography I've just been watching the below video, and you are correct that in-body image stabilisation is automatically turned off when in High Res mode, however it does go on to say that if you've not turned off the lens stabilisation this will override the body default which I wouldn't have expected. Not sure if your lens has option to turn on / off (my 12-100 Pro does) but may be worth checking. Clearly you're using a quality lens so the issue you've encountered hasn't been caused by that.
Interestingly this video also says "tripod high res requires a still subject, subject movement results in artefacts, blur or a failure to create a composite". It also says to use the self timer or a remote trigger
ua-cam.com/video/Tx4kediHix4/v-deo.htmlsi=BPTcwCNeCYMk9Fuw
I was surprised to see that it says to use ISO 80, whereas like you I've always ended to use the 'recommended 200'.
There is a section in the video where he covers 'movement' but alas it's not possible to see how sharp the static elements of the image are.
Every day is a school day, and your video has prompted me to learn something.
@adambennett2840 thank you, I’ll give it a watch. The 12-45 doesn’t have built in IS but thanks for the heads up
A good honest review we have similar problems with wildlife photography. It’s 1,000,000 miles away from Sony Nikon and Cannon.
LORDY! Not sure what you are doing wrong here, but something is going wrong. I mean I 100% percent handhold my high resolution shots and my results are always stellar. But I'm always using pro glass like my 17mm 1.2.
Another thought. The RAW file of the high res Olympus images is a complex one. It embeds the first image in full, then the composite. I have seen reports that Lightroom does not render these properly. Photoshop does apparently.
You can take the Olympus hi-res tripod at 1/15 shutter, I have done this with water and it has worked, but there was a lot of static rocks in the scene too (not sure that matters). But I have had a similar experience with olympus Hi-Rez being soft; my Panasonic GH6 high Rez mode looks much much better than my olympus EM 1 mark iii Hi-Rez mode.
Echos my findings- Oly hi-res modes do not create a sharp result. Standard 20mb files are far sharper!! Love my OM Systems cameras but have given up using HHHR or tripod HR .
I've compared the output from the Z8 (45MP) and OM1.2 20MP, 50MP and 80MP and the Nikon always looks far better. Add the fact that Z8 can take it's own hi-res mode and it's simply no contest. However, that doesn't mean the OM1 is bad, I love that camera, but for shots that I want to print big OR crop the hell out of, the Nikon takes the day every time. For macro, I could use either one quite happily.
Where the OM1 wins is in the computational modes (LiveTime and LiveComp, Live ND and Live GND) that the Nikon simply doesn't have. I'm not biased and love both systems, but they each have their strengths and weaknesses.
Very nicely summarised. I’m feeling the same. I’ve got an OM system coming to try so I can check other lenses and a new body. Still love the system though for all the reasons you mention
Olympus had always recommended that IBIS need to be turned off when the camera is on a tripod, high res or not. In high res, the camera shifts the sensor to create the multiple shots. If you have left IBIS on, it will certainly compromise the camera's ability to create the multiple shots!
the camera will turn off IBIS when you engage hi res mode
Tough crowd!
😂😂
Well,I’ll,throw my 2 pence in.
1/ use a pro lens
2/ turn off image stabilisation to be totally sure
3/ use manual focus and use magnify to get image tack sharp
4/ set the 2 second timer
5/ hold your breath
6/ view at home a superior image than Nikon or at least as good
7/ I totally recommend using manual focus to be absolutely sure it’s in focus
8/ good luck, I wish you well. Be good to get another m43 ambassador on YT
Thank you for some great suggestions. I’ve got a kit coming from OM systems and I will definitely compare the 12-40 with the 12-45 (if I can sort it).
The poor results you got with the Olympus may be due to not turning off the IBIS when the camera was on a tripod. However, that said it has been reported by others that the hires images require more sharpening than the original 20mp files. I would be interested in your thoughts.
I will investigate with the OM1 when I get it
I’m a z7ii and em1 iii owner. What’s gone on is your comparing apples with oranges You can’t do a seascape in hi res mode and am I rite in thinking your only judging the image by its sharpness ? It’s like saying the best wine is the strongest, just stand at normal viewing distance and enjoy your image because Olympus cameras render some great looking photos.
In which case I’d use my iPhone
@@davepeckphotography maybe your iPhone is best in the correct scenario but I’m not saying use your IPhone I’m saying use the correct tool for the job, and showing that a dedicated sports and wildlife camera isn’t as good at landscapes as an almost dedicated landscape camera is proving nothing, there is no such thing as a Swiss army knife of cameras they each have there own benefits and shortfalls. And they both take great pics
Thanks Paul, I think that’s what I’ve discovered
Something weard: in film you see Nikon at the left Olympus on the right. In Photoshop the position of the Nikon is on the right Olympus on the left. Look for th two poles ontheft foreground
I found it us best to process the Olympus High Resolution photos in Olympus Workspace and export a tiff to Lightroom. Lightroom does not do the High Resolution Olympus very well.
Thank you for that. I have heard that, but that makes it more clunky than the Nikon
@@davepeckphotography True. The workforce has an extra step.
This is a very timely video as I was really disappointed when shooting the super moon the other day using Hi-res on my EM1 MK II on a tripod with a 4 second shutter delay. I had a really blurry result and tried 10 times. The standard 20 mega pixel images were fine and sharp So watched your video and thought I had the same result that you got so its a rubbish gimmick but then read the comments and thought how can other people be getting better results. So just set up the camera in the kitchen with the same lens I used for the moon shot. I cycled through the Sequential Shooting / Timer option to set the 4 second delay but came across a dedicated hi-res mode option which I selected. I made sure that IBIS was off took a photo of some net curtains and wow detail not blur. I also shot a comparison 20 mega pixel shot. This is not a scientific test so will try an outdoor shot this week to see if I get a better result but worth checking out the hi-res option in the sequential Shooting menu in the SCP.
If I had not seen you video I would not have tried the test and would probably have never used hi-res mode again so thanks. Ill make another comment if the outdoor text works out.
Oh that’s interesting, thanks. Looking forward to hearing about your results
The moon moves.
@@StuartAnderton Correct but I did actually get a sharper image of the moon last night using the Olympus 40-150 plastic fantastic and will try again tonight weather permitting and also spending a bit more time on set up.
I think you should do that test again with a screen test chart at home just to make sure there is nothing wrong with the camera, I would set the cameras on manual and use at least a two second timer! your test made my very basic camera look good. Best wishes and safe travels......(with your Nikon, leave the other at Home)
Ok will do
I believe you are trying your best, but the results you are getting do not match my experience of m43. I went from Canon 5D IV 32MP to OM1 mk1, after 40 happy years with Canon, and find the OM to be sharp (and half the weight). I generally shoot hand held 50MP unless there is movement in the scene and then review result at 200% to eliminate anything that is not pin sharp. There are so many variables that might be affecting your results I cannot begin to identify your issues. Maybe the lens, maybe settings, maybe your older camera is not working as well as my OM1. I found Lightroom and ON1 to be bad with my OM1. The free OM sw is better but DXO is best so far. But Lightroom cannot be 100% the reasons for soft results. My first results with OM where not great. It did take me a few weeks to consistently get sharp results, but I am glad I persisted. My 50MP are probably not as sharp as a real 50MP sensor, but I can easily beat a 32MP camera on a tripod while hand-holding my OM1. Anyway, well done for trying.
Thank you.
F11 is into diffraction on m43. No-one uses that.
Learnt that
My m5 ii high res mode is sharpen than that😅. You should try re shoot
You mention 80mpixel files..
I must be doing something wrong because I can only get 25/50 pixel files in hi-res mode... Whether in handheld or tripod setting.
Any advise anyone?
The tripod hi-res gives you 80 mpix files in raw. 50 is for jpeg.
@@johna5624 thanks for that.. I'll have another look! 👍
50 is for hand held, 80 for tripod
Stabulation must be off on tripod. And camera shiylbe triggered with a delay or remotely.
Despite my spelling 🤣🤣🤣
It turns off stabilisation the moment you switch to HR Tripod mode automatically
Well done for having another go.
I have a om5 and the 12 to 45 f4 and it is really sharp.
The only suggestion I can make is see if the firmware is up to date, being an older model they may have improved hi res over time.
The Nikon looks great.
Thank you, I haven’t updated that actually. Fingers crossed I’ve got a new kit coming on loan from Olympus so let’s see how that is. Thanks for watching
NIKON all the way
That high-res olympus file was shocking mate - stick to the Nikon for that type of image. What did the non High Res 20mb file look like?
Same
@@davepeckphotography In which case you are doing something very wrong. Hi res modes are tricky and can disappoint but standard mode should be tack sharp, albeit at a lower resolution.
Even with tripod use a delayed shutter release.
im using the a7iv and the om1 and as far as i am concerned the image quality of the om1 80mp is about as good as the 33mp of the sony.
I also have an OM1. I think you aren’t far off, HHHR images aren’t far off my old 47mp Sony but definitely more detailed than my 24 mp Fuji. They look good.
OM ambassador please reach out and go out to demonstrate OM1 (either) as titles on these videos and the apparent results will put off people who potentially could adopt system
Sorry, in what way does the title put people off? Is it because you don’t like the results? Not rigged just as I saw it. For your information I have a new kit coming on loan from Olympus which will feature in a new video but you’ll need to be grown up enough to see the evidence in an unbiased way rather than some love struck fan boy that you seem to be coming across as.
I note u removed a constructive reply and kept your reactive insulting one prior to it. Putting stuff out there particularly a comparison is bound to get a reaction. Apart from the odd troll or idiot comments are constructive. Don't insult your watchers when they are being objective.
@mutley3136 actually no I didn’t, I removed my reply. And in what way was your post constructive? What bit of the title would give the OM system a bad reputation? I was quite happy for the Olympus to be just as good as the Nikon or better but the fact that, in my opinion, results were worse is the reality of things. Go back and check out all the people telling me I am a rookie, I don’t know what I’m doing, I’m naff etc, I think I’m allowed to reply? I never get this vitriol from other system users. I’ve had some very constructive feedback but saying I need an OM ambassador to help me (which you implied) I find a little insulting after 1) 45 years as a photographer 2) I have already had long discussions with Roger Hance and 3) my review on the macro capabilities of Olympus was very positive. I welcome constructive criticism, fire away but an implication that I can’t work a camera properly is rude and disrespectful
The GoPro image should tell you your technique and use of f stop is wrong.
What GoPro image would that be mate? I don’t use one. But thanks for your wisdom
You shild have used OM-1 with the fast stacked sensor!
Right, know anyone who wants to lend me one?
Used OM-1 and while the images werent as blurry as the ones shown, they werent better than the 20mp and had artifacts due to air movement
Il keep my time tested and proven results of my nikons
I just did a quick test with my EM1 mk2 on a tripod using the Sigma 56mm prime at f5.6 of the church steeple some distance away. Shot 1. IBIS on, shot 2. IBIS off, shot 3. 50mp HR (automatically turns IBIS off). Image magnified 14x on the back of the camera, shot 1 good, shot 2 marginally better, shot 3 much better and totally sharp. Opened in LR and the standard res was quite a bit sharper than the HR image, both shot in RAW. Opened in OM WS and the HR images was slightly cleaner and sharper than the standard image. OM WS is a bit of a fag. I guess if you really want HR buy a better sensor and I would imagine the Nikon would totally clean up in that respect.
Thanks for that. And thanks for taking the time. I’ve got an OM1mk2 coming and another 12-40 to see if there’s a problem with the lens or body so I’ll be interested to see how that goes. I’ll try a scene without any movement in it as well.
@@davepeckphotography I dont think its much to do with movement. Its just stitching photos together, so the still objects remain still and should be sharp, any way I was a little surprised that LR couldnt handle it, kinda confirmed my own experience in the field. I would often take a standard image and HR image and end up picking the standard image.
@zardosspinosa6944 I’m sure you’re right but that’s been one of the suggestions. The only thing I can think of is it’s trying to match up and align the waves, which they obviously won’t
I bought an Olympus, very disappointing knew it would not be as good as my Canon R5, but the Olympus is very noisy even at low iso, my old Sony A5100 is better than the Olympus!
Is that a joke? The high resolution images of my Olympus cameras are a thousand times better than the ones you show here! Is this Nikon propaganda? I don't understand these results, not even if the photos were taken by a Parkinson's patient.
To be honest I was surprised but no it’s not a joke. I’ve shown you it live, explained the settings and shown the results in LR. If you have any suggestions fire away
Have you tried this with manuel focus use the magnifiek for exact focusing. On tripod use the tripod setting if not image stabilsation still will activate and you get unsharp pictures.
All pixel shift modes fall apart when too much movement is involved in the scene . Your post is uncalled for and sadly typical BS that the OM fanboys spout . The pixel shift features are new to many and require some practice and refine to get the best from
@@TRUSKY1965 I have an EM1 mark 3 and GH6, my Olympus has always looked extremely soft compared to my GH6…and I am an Olympus fan boy, so no bias here; I have had my Olympus for years before I got the GH6, I was blown away when I got my GH6 and took high res shots, they were way better than my Olympus
Did you forget to turn off image stabilization on the Oly?@@davepeckphotography
I have an OM-D E-M1 Mark II wirh a 12-40 pro lens and it's pin sharp on my landscape shots I even have some hand held of Southwold pier better than your attempt with the Olympus. Agree it's not the best for noise/resolution but very good. Interestingly I had an issue last year in Wales photographing the red kites. I lent my spare camera to my wife with a 40-150 and she was getting sharp shots I had a 300mm f4 and my shots were not sharp. I tried everything and was getting very frustrated I then in desperation took off the Hoya pro UV filter and it resolved the issue. I will never use a UV filter again.
Or get a decent UV filter. Used a UV filter for over 40 years, saved 3 or 4 lenses in that time and if they are decent quality and kept in good shape they should last a few years. No reason that they should make your shots soft, unless the quality isn't there. And no point going down the "another piece of glass in the way" argument. Lenses now have far more glass than they used to....
Image stabilisation!!!
My om-1 mk2 hhhr can not match my Z8, or my GFX 50Smk2.. But your image look too soft, I use HHHR a lot with 12-40 f2.8 pro stop down@ F8, my image look a lot sharper than yours.
I hate to say it. But, i think you have a bad Olympus Camera.They should either replace it or give your money back.
Camera or lens? Or both? I got them secondhand
@@davepeckphotography Look for "AF Focus Adj" in the Olympus Manual PDF. It may improve phase detect AF. Nikon use Phase Detect and Contrast Auto Detect.
Looks like you repeated the typical HR rookie mistakes. Olympus HR/HHHR files need more aggressive sharpening and you didn’t use proper tripod technique with shutter delay (apparent motion artifacts). Yes the Nikon ought to be easier to use and more tolerant of less than perfect technique, which in itself makes it a better choice perhaps but it would a better comparison still if you had used proper shooting and post processing techniques. It takes away the credibility of your comparative effort unfortunately.
Thank you, I’ll try and get as good as you
I have never had such poor images as your tests results show !
To be honest, you didn’t know how to use that EM-1X properly. To do a demonstration like that is very misleading and very unfair to the m43 community. I suggest you increase the shutter speed for your hand-held high res shots and compare them in a static scene and compare them side by side. There is no way the 80 megapixel image will be outperformed by the 45 megapixels Nikon. I own both and OM-1 and a Nikon Z9 and I know with static scenes, this is not the result we will see.
Thanks for the view
Hi from Oz again, I forgot to add this link from a guy that recently made a similar comparison, he does does emphasis the need for good glass, the guys name is Gavin Hardcastle who does some incredible work.
I'm at a loss as to why your Oly pics were so poor, no conspiracy theories from me mate, I really enjoy your channel but I'm also so pleased I changed from Canon to Olympus. Please have a look at the video clip if you get time.
Horses for Courses mate 👍
ua-cam.com/video/5dZrL4YNILA/v-deo.htmlsi=CxtKXY2ar4jbU32b
Thanks George, and thanks for the link! I follow Gavin and I’ve seen that video. His images with that 150-400 are stunning and he talks a lot of sense regarding resolution. So much so that I’m interested in looking at switching.
I admit I was very surprised at my own results and I disagree with previous posters that it’s my technique. My only explanation is that there is a disparity between the relatively new Z sensor and the m4/3 sensor in the EM1X which is older. I’ve got similar kit to Gavin coming imminently (minus the 150-400) and I’m keen to use it on several shoots and then make a decision.
Thanks for checking in and thanks for the link. Watch this space!