Just wanted to put in my 2¢ on using helicon with a lot of images. I use the program a lot for commercial jewelry and cosmetic imagery using medium format cameras. We sometimes have 200+ images in a stack. Add on top the reflective nature of the subjects and we have a lot of artifact potential. I’ve found doing smaller 20-30 image stacks and then stacking those stacks gives the best outcome. Just something to try if you’re finding yourself having issues!
What you're saying is, if there are 300 images, you stack 20 at a time, then 15 again? 1. 20 sheets each - stacking 2. Stacking re-stacking 15 photos. Am I right?
I would love to do it, but I am mainly geared towards wildlife with mid to high mm area. And Iowa lenses are sadly so hard to get used here and in my price range ( which is being poor as dirt xD)
I subscribed because I like the fact that you didn't delete this video and showed us your failed effort. And you are not one of those photographers who try to sell the viewers something. 👌
I have the 2.5-5x and love it. It’s sharpest around f/4-5.6. I’m sure you already know this but don’t touch anything for about 2 seconds after rotating the rail knob - takes a sec to settle…even when using a remote trigger.
Flash! you need a flash (or other lighting system) to keep consistent lighting on the subject. many use a hood or dual flashes to control lighting to keep that consistency in their stacks. i say this from studying others, preparing for my own experience with digital macro. kind of surprised nobody else has suggested it. really enjoying your videos! 😄
Once again Courtney- great video. Over the months of watching you, my photography has improved immensely! Thank you for all the pointers you always pass on to your viewers. As always, we'll be watching over your shoulder from Port Angeles, WA., USA! Take care, be safe, STAY DRY!
such a down to earth, authentic and easy going individual. I appreciate that most of the footage was on location, which is obviously way more work constantly having to setup your recording camera. Not to mention having to lug another camera and tripod around with you through the forest. As for improving the quality of your pictures, I recommed using a speedlite and a small diy softbox to be able to shoot intependent of natural light. When doing Macro photos, I suggest you go to Mirror Up mode 12:44 so you can minimize camera shake induced by the mirror (provided you have a cable release).
Don't get discouraged. What you attempted to do is extremely difficult to do in the field, as you found out. Even under controlled conditions (indoors) there are many things that can ruin a stack. You may want to use the camera's intervalometer to take the number of shots you need, one shot every five seconds or so. Then all you have to do is turn the rail's wheel right after each shot, and take your hands off the rail. The five second delay should be enough to let any vibrations dissipate. You can find out in advance how many shots you will need by focusing on the nearest part of the subject and counting the turns it takes to get to the farthest. As for the shifting light, you may want to consider using a flash and a diffuser for macro shots. Set the camera's aperture, shutter speed, and ISO so that without flash you get a black frame. Then dial in the flash power needed to properly illuminate the scene. This takes a bit of trial and error if you are using the flash in manual mode (as recommended). I find that anywhere between 1/8 and 1/16 power works well at the short distances involved.
I have a Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x Macro which I use with my Canon 5Ds. I also have a focusing rail. I think that the big challenge with 5x is that the images are not easily recognizable. When people look at the images, you might get "What is that?" We see the same "strangeness" when we look at the images. So a good strategy (I think) is to pick a tiny structure that will be recognizable, like a single seed from a dandelion gone to seed. Otherwise, we can end up with Vincini's, "What in the world can THAT be?" Using flash with a diffuser will get you more consistent light. There were forest elves in the background when you were prone on the mossy tree,
I find your videos incredibly inspiring and a little bit magical. When it comes to close up photography, I believe Macro photographers do it in controlled environments (easier but a lot less fun).
Thank you for showing your failures and I hope you get a chance for a revenge macro photography video! It really goes to show that photography is an art form, and we try to hone our skills to create something we can satisfied with. I love your videos too because it feels like I am discovering and learning through watching them with your quirky humor. Have you tried macro with flash out in the field? I've never done macro myself, but I've watched others that use it to great effect. Good luck in your macro journey!
I wonder if the shutter firing might be causing a bit of vibration, might be worth trying to minimise the length of the arm assembly as much as possible by getting the tripod centre mount as close to the subject as you can..?
Always fun and entertaining! By now you have probably mastered this! As I always say…a great photo is a bonus! What a beautiful place you were in! I enjoyed it all. Thanks for taking me along!
In the field 5x macro is really hard. Any wind, even rain can cause vibration. I would say absolutely no VR or IBIS on a tripod and use a diffused flash to freeze each shot with a higher shutter speed, with high speed synch if your camera supports it etc could help in a situation like that. You're certainly not the only one that has mishaps with 5x macro, no worries. Quite refreshing watching a video about realities actually. Keep up the good work, cheers, Robert.
I have the same combination, Laowa lens with the NISI rail. It's so sensetive to any movenet that as some wrote here, you need to wait between each rotation of the rail control to let it set. doing this in field is very ambitious, especially for the first time use of the set. Even the micro movements of the tripod can influence the sharpenss.
As someone who loves macro nature photography and have been doing it for decades, I salute your attempts in trying this ultra macro work! To be honest, after watching the time you invested vs the results you got, I have no interest in trying this genre of nature macro photography. So, I'm really glad you tried it and posted this video! BTW, I love Helicon Focus software. I have always had great success with Method A myself. Take care Victoria and may you have consistent soft light and little or no wind for future outings!
At the end of the day she will succeed and a door to a whole new world will open. Always strive for what is just achievable. Don't be left behind. Got my first camera in 1964, still striving, still learning, it's a blast. Thank you Courtney and yes I subscribed.
This lens by laowa is a beast. It gives you opportunities you never had before but can drive you mad. I use the additional ring containing LED light. It makes photographing more easy but the ring can get hot. I prefer to use this lens at home when there´s definetely no wind but constant light. I photograph details of flowers or vegetables. A good opportunity for rainy days. Greeting from Bernd Laukoetter from Gemany
I was a macro guy 10 years ago and I'm suprised to see how little has changed. That lense is a bit of a game changer for us Nikon people, (our own MPE65, finally). Almost makes me want to pick up the old D800 again.
You did a great job of not shouting expletives and blaming anything but yourself when you saw that the fungi in your initial set of images was not sharp. Way to stay composed :)
At last, someone who is honest about what they are trying to achieve. This has really given me hope, the majority of us do these things and give up because we think we are crap at it, when in fact, after watching this particular video, we just need to practice practice practice until we iron out all the issues attached to achieving best results. I have avoided ultra macro because I also like working in the field. sitting in. Sitting in a studio, for me anyway, defeats the reason I’m out in the natural environment. Thank you Courtney, I don’t feel so intimidated now! 👍
Going from 1:1 to 2:1 was a long learning experience for me, I cannot imagine how much more challenging it would be to go to 5:1, but I want to 😁. Thank you or sharing your experiences with us!
Good idea with the eyeglass and an excellent tutorial on the pros and cons of macro photography in the field using a focussing rail. I definitely related to your video having the Nisi rail attempting to photograph a Damselfly head while it was supposedly was asleep covered in morning dew. I remember on my 25th shot it moved its head. I’m sure it was the sound of my old Canon 5D mkiii shutter that woke it up. I’ve watched an experts handheld successful attempt at a Robberfly using at high iso and fast multiburst slowly rocking forward. I think it’s worth whacking the iso up even on a tripod because a slight breeze or raindrop can move the subject. You can always denoising the final blended image. I’ve adapted my nisi rail to have a springy pin that is fixed on the rail and bent so it fits into the knurl of the rail knob. This clicks with each knurl when you rotated the knob for accurate increments when you get down to the super macro. The fold up crank handle is useless . I’m no expert and haven’t nailed any images yet but it’s great fun trying isn’t it. Look forward to your next super macro shoot.
Hi Courtney I have just found your channel. I will now be lost for the next few days catching up on all the videos. What is even better is you are working around where I live. You even had my house in the background in one video OK about three miles away. Keep up the great work.
Dear Courtney, thank you so much for doing the micro-shoot(s) and filming them and uploading them here. I enjoyed the whole video - even when you failed, you showed us what went through your mind and displayed the results. This is not a failure as such, this is going through the lessons of our craft and how much more you have a grip of this feature of our skills. Thank you so much - I really enjoyed this. Respect! :¬)
I highly recommend a geared tripod head to limit camera shake when composing. They allow you to make very fine adjustments without loosening the ball and shaking the whole ensemble, similar to what the focus rail does. I have been using a Benro GD3WH for years and love it.
I upgraded to a wemacro auto rail a few weeks ago and the difference has been night and day. I can do 4x and 10x stacks with microscope objectives and it honestly just works which is crazy. The only problem with microscope objectives is that they flatten the field a lot. Portraits are almost sterile and analytical because it's hard to get context when your depth of field is 45 micron. We all have problems when we start out. Just keep pushing forward into the ultra macro space because it's a beautiful world.
I always enjoy your outings and wry humor but the editing side is equally fun. Thanks for making me chuckle over my dinner tonight! At least you're not coping with the winds I experience here in the northern Great Plains during the shooting of such subjects. I'm certain that you'll have this down to a fine science in the near future, though. Others have made some excellent little points in the comments and I haven't anything earth-shattering to add. Simply keep up the great work and thanks for sharing. :)
Don`t give up Courtney . I did the same thing and was not happy but the more I tried the better i became I have found no matter what focus rail you use be it computer driven or manually there will be some kind of movement whether it be you or the shutter in the Camera. It is going to take time just keep Practicing Best of luck and it was still a Great photo for first time out using the Lense..
Thanks for the demonstration! It’s is amazing to watch and learn from someone using the equipment and demonstrating learning through failure. Most videos show only success.
Hello, Long time macro/micro photographer from the far, far, side of the pond, (California, USA). Given your stated preference for being out in the field photographing what interests you in the field in mind, I share the following observations and information. I have the Laowa 2.4-5.0X lens also. I have been most successful in taking macro photographs in the field with the Laowa when I use it with the Novoflex Castle-M focusing Rack. The Novoflex Castle-M focusing Rack was designed with the Laowa 2.4-5.0X lens in mind. If I am just wandering about in the field looking for interesting creatures and fauna I mount two or three Adaptalux Flash Arms with diffusers on a two sided Arca-Swiss rail. Atop that is my D850, Laowa lens mounted on my Novoflex rail. Of course everything mounted on a sturdy tripod. I am not affiliated with or recommending any of the above mentioned equipment. There are many alternative equipment configurations that will work just as well. Godox sells some excellent flash units. Using flash units with diffusers work well to reduce lack of sharpness in my wandering about macro photography. Flash units when used appropriately "freeze" the subject in the image you are trying to capture. I also recommend Lester Lefkowitz's "Manual of Close-up and Macro Photography, Volume I and II", and/or "Macro Photography, The Universe At Our Feet" by Don Komarechka. Again not affiliated with either. A website that I subscribe to, in addition to yours, is "photomacrocrophy.net". Best of success in your adventures in the world of macrophotography.
Thats like $1700 worth of equipment. You can throw money at any problem but I think this channel is more geared towards the hobbyist. She doesnt even own the lens ffs.
You don‘t need a focussing rail for 5x, it‘s really not that high of a magnification, you can stack handheld with a flash and a good diffuser, no problem at all.
A decent focusing rail is an awesome piece of gear. I have long carried a Novoflex Castel-Mini which has served me very very well. Your NISI looks awesome. Excellent Presentation ❤ One really needs to experinment with tripods / telephoto lenses / macro lenses / focusing rails
Your video was quite enjoyable to watch. I appreciate the topic you've chosen and how you went about relaying it to us. I also enjoyed your personality.
Love the video! Just found your channel. I will add something, I think you are missing a vital item of equipment which has taken my macro shots recently up a level.... a good flash. Picked up a Godox V1 and made a home made diffuser, it makes all the difference as you wont encounter issues with light changing etc. You can also use higher shutter speeds, just ensure to use HSS if you plan on using more than 200 shutter speed. Keep up the good work!
I just stumbled across your video and I'm very impressed. I have never heard of a focus rail before so it's true that you learn something every day. I've thought of trying macro photos before but already have enough on my plate as it is. I can really appreciate your passion that you have for your photography !!!
okay here's what you do. set up cam, max bellows, aperture down to f. 64 . Almost no light hits the film plane. Then you fire the flash packs again and again, bang bang bang bang, and you just pound that scene with light. By the end of it, the scene is burnt onto your retinas and you have full d.o.f. over the image. For jewellery you have to tent the scene with diffuser. Shooting with a Sinar 4x5" monorail also helps.
Ive tried macro with stacking and youre right it aint easy. Obviously the dof for each frame is microscopic. I made a test rig with pins in a piece of wood to practice on. Recently with a mirrorless camera and electronic focus the camera works out how many frames you need, given it knows the dof and the user sets the front and back focus limit. The results were it took 150 to photograph my car key. Thats far more than I would have done with manual control. So perhaps more frames needed, I don’t know. Zerene is my preferred stacking software. You’re doing great work.
I have an older version of this Laowa called the Ultra Macro. I also have the dedicated ring light for it. It produces seriously interesting images even without focus stacking. Seems to perform best at about f/5.6 across the magnification range. An absolutely fun lens to work with.
You are awesome. Your passion, passion for an ordinary field, love for walks with a camera in the forest is inspiring for me. I have periods when I do not touch the camera for a very long time, but you in your films, with your naturalness, remind me of what I love in photography, nature, forests, but sometimes I neglect it. Warmest greetings and thank you for these films :)
Hi Courtney, I bet you are extremely patient for doing macro photography! I use my macro lens (EF-M 28mm f/3.5 IS STM) mostly to get a flatter plane of focus on bigger items rather than to photograph small items.
Hi, Courtney. Very good video. I am also completely in love with macro photography. I have been doing this for almost 25 years now and with great pleasure. Of course, I sometimes do other work, but I think macro is the most beautiful side of photography. On a side note: I challenge you to visit places like this in stiletto heels 😀 😀 😀. Then put on an overall. But now without fooling around, you capture macro photography very beautifully and well. That little magnifying glass you showed introduced me to macro photography. I was a member of a nature association at the time and was part of the group that researched fungi. I had been taking photographs for some time, but when I looked through this small magnifying glass the macro virus got me. I work with the micro 4/3 system, namely the Lumix G9II and the 60 mm macro Zuiko and 30 mm Lumix/Leica macro lenses. And sometimes I also add an extension tube in between. I am impressed with the lenses you use. This is not a "toy" but two very good macro lenses. The 5X magnification system is unique because as far as I know, only Canon has this system. And the ones you have in your possession are also available for Micro 4/3. I also have the focus rail that you use and I am very happy with it. A good tool for macro photography. You certainly don't have to be disappointed with the first photo with 5x magnification. I dare not compare my first attempt, because that's all I can call it, next to yours. I enjoyed watching this video. It's a pity for me that due to my disability, I can no longer crawl on the ground through the forest. But sometimes I take something home and try to take a photo of it. I know this is not entirely fair, but I really have no choice but to pursue my beautiful hobby in this way. Thank you for this beautiful and good video, I enjoyed it, Courtney. Sincere friendly greetings from the Netherlands, Antoine.
I'd do some indoor shots first to get a feel for it. As others have said using a flash puts you in control of light, you'll need to overpower the light quite a bit if it's half sunny half overcast. I usually use a pocket bouncer with a white plastic bag (the crinkly type) over it to extend the 'softbox' over and around the subject, just out of shot. Stick a short strip of paper to the bottom of the lens end that will bounce some light under the subject overhangs. This gives that nice soft tone you see with overcast light. Sometimes you need a second flash to light up the background if it's farther away or you'll end up with a black background. Or fake a background by moving a branch or leaf closer in and pin it down. Or take your subject to your home studio ;) Check on the camera digital zoomed in all the way for good focus and follow it with the slider, 1/3 overlap should do the trick. Not sure what aperture you used, but I'd use as much stopped down as diffraction allows. Not sure if the stacking software can export the aligned images, but sometimes you can just manually stack them and selectively mask in/out sharp/blurry parts if the stacker didn't quite get it.
Great video into the realities of attempting ultra-macro photography in the field Courtney. It's not difficult to figure out why this is so hard to achieve when you consider the following: attempting to photograph subjects that are millimeters in size, using a tripod + extension tubes + macro lens + camera + macro rails + wet uneven and nature littered ground = miniscule chances for success!! Kudos to anyone achieving the near impossible! All the best for your channel and your photographic endeavors Courtney!
The tip in the comment section about Helicon and doing in smaller batches is great but ALSO. If you can set up wind barriers around the subject it will help even more with les artifacts. I know i's more stuff to carry, but some wooden canes and fold up light reflectors work well.
It takes a special kind of person to take so much care and persist with x5 magnification. I'm still at the x2 level, love my Laowa 65mm for moments like these. Good luck with your endeavours.
It was brave of you to attempt to use this lens in the field. I'd be tempted to take the branch back home where I can place the tripod on a solid floor and have total control over the lighting. You certainly gave yourself a challenge.
I have tried macro with my homemade telescope, light is definitely not a issue for me considering my aperture is 127mm which makes the scope F5.3 You could try running a video instead of individual shots, it's common in planetary photography due to the brightness of the planet and it's resistance to changing conditions is quite nice, you convert the video to individual shots then stack them.
@10:29 set a 2 second timer on the shutter. Every time you touch the focus rail dial, you are introducing vibrations and movement into the system. The 2 seconds will give enough time for those to dissipate.
Enjoyed the video as usual Courtney. I admire your patience doing macro photography. I think that Laowa should give you that lens, so come on Laowa, and also what about sponsorship. It's such a shame that the conditions were not in your favour. Look forward to the next one.
I have had this geared head for about 2 years now. Bought it as it has 3 way movement, compact, relatively cheap. I have no complaints with the knobs for my usage, which is mainly large product shoots. The only thing I think they need to improve is the camera clamp adjustment dial immediately adjacent to the locking lever, it loosens overtime. I have solved this with locking glue. Other minor point is the bottom bubble level is poorly positioned, right in the middle of the head so you can't really see it. I have had the Arca D4 and Leofoto geared heads, but prefer this one because of its size and weight.
I was thinking about not seeing any Courtney Victoria videos just yesterday! I've done a fair amount of macro work but never at 5x. My kit is a bellows and a Nikon manual focus 105 mm lens. Been playing with scheimpflug effect to get the depth of field I want. It's so much fun! I look forward to more macro videos. Frankly though I was hoping for some dancing in the woods!
Excellent video and identifies a key learning which is the techniques required for this sort of photography take time and patience to master. When I decided to head down this path I took a different approach adding a Raynox to my existing macro lens as a starting point. I also bought a plastic focus rail as a toe in the water which was a fail as it was not strong enough to control the camera precisely. High magnification requires good light, a Godox wireless lighting system was acquired to replace my previous wired lights, offering more control and easy off camera placement options. Peaking is awesome but a larger screen would have been even more awesome, I never got around to that however. An external screen is easy to mount on the tripod and the mount comes with the vanguard tripod anyway. I spent a lot of time indoors working on technique and even managed to gather up some half decent images outside after a while. Combating movement and funky light changes outdoors seems to be the main challenge but as someone else mentioned rather than trying to process huge stacks into one image, do them in stages, progressively stacking stacked images seems to be a better approach much of the time. Thanks for sharing your interesting content.
I enjoyed your video despite having made different choices at nearly every turn. I'm using Canon cameras and have the AstrHori 25mm f/2.8 2-5x macro. I chose that lens over the Laowa partly for the fact it went down to 2x rather than 2.5x but mostly because it is a lot cheaper than the Laowa. I also use Zerene Stacker rather than Helicon. I am of the opinion that these choices are all less important than things we can't change (like diffraction, wind and weather) and each choice will out perform the others in some instances. I found it interesting that the AstrHori has a dot on the aperture ring between f/2.8 and f/4 (f/3.5?) that also seems to be where I get best results at 5x. I find it hard to believe that the dot was placed there by accident. I see some reviewers that claim one lens is sharper than another but I have not yet found one that convinces me that they understand the importance of the near total lack of depth of field at 5x (or 2x, even). If you are advancing 1/10th of a millimeter between shots and the depth of field is 1/20th, the question of which lens is sharper is moot. I'll never know which lens, which camera or which software is 'better' because I will not be owning the other options and opinions from using a loaner for a month will show more about your abilities than about the gear. My hobby is shooting small things, not accumulating redundant gear. Another choice we made differently is that my Laowa 2:1 macro is the 85mm f/5.6 which I chose for what I consider to be a really good reason. I never use a macro lens at f/2.8 so carrying all that weight and bulk when shooting at f/5.6 to f/11 makes no sense to me. Very nice video! Liked and Subscribed.
Courtney, great video as always. I visited this weekend the tulip park ‘Keukenhof’ in the Netherlands (where I live), I hadn't done macro photography for a long time and I really enjoyed it a lot, seeing the small details that make up the big scenes we capture are the ones that show you the greatness of nature. Thank you very much for sharing your experiences. I love it.
Very nice video. Here’s something to consider: I have the AstrHori 25mm 2x-5x, modeled on the Laowa. Using it in the field usually requires adding flash for consistent lighting. I use the Laowa/KuangRen KX-800 twin flash (with diffusers) and highly, highly recommend it. It brings the flexibility of studio lighting into the field. I think, once you adjust to a flash-based workflow, you would find more keepers & successful stacks.
Yay! Another video from Courtney. They're addictive (because of your personality and enthusiasm! We can clearly see how much you love what you do ☺️). It would be great if you could try renting a mirrorless camera like the Lumix S5ii with the nes 100mm macro. The automatic focus stacking is awesome and makes the rail redundant. Keep up the wonderful videos ☺️
Suburb video Courtney. You are learning so there is no failure. It is evident from the comments that you have found that the macro community is passionate and willing to share experiences! I always enjoy your presentation style! It’s too bad you didn’t get to give the photobombers at the end of the video some dance lessons.
Talk to Lower. They know the photographers that do this regularly. You want to get better? Shoot with photographers and talk to photographers who photograph better than you. Don't give up. Always a pleasure watching your videos.
Like others pointed out, flash is key. It freezes the tiny movements and gives you consistent light. If you fancy, a torch towards the background can provide ambience. Flash is how others can take macros handheld :) Anyway, keep up, nice videos and excellent attitude.
Spendiferous video. Can feel your frustration, and your determination. Wonderful story line, rich content, and your personality is inspiring. Thanks for sharing.
I bought a Cognysis computerized rail. You tell it where to start and end and what interval and it’s automated. Kind of pricey but makes the process easier. They also offer a battery pack for field use. Keep up the great work, love the videos!
After watching your recent macro photography videos, I decided to purchase a set of extension tubes. I figured this would be a less expensive way to get started. Admittedly, I have a long way to go, but I have been enjoying the journey. Keep up the amazing work you are doing.
I’ve used Affinity Photo for fairly good results. To compensate for images with varied lighting, you can adjust the exposure if in RAW format. The main problem with varied lighting is that some images may be less diffuse lighted, others more. But if the exposure doesn’t need to be pushed too much, and if you use Base ISO, you can get away with a fairly good image if the lighting in none of the images isn’t diffuse enough, because non-diffuse light can cause specular reflections. Possibly, it may be the best idea to use an intervalometer to set enough seconds between images to give yourself time to change focus & to let the camera settle without vibration. Another idea is to slowly turn the knob while using continuous burst mode, while using a fast shutter speed so that camera movement doesn’t show. You may need to know the buffer of the camera to know how many images can be done before shutter lag starts. Main advantage of studio setting is that you can use a particularly strong light source to be able to make for quick shutter speed; otherwise, for best results, use base ISO and use software to increase exposure; the advantage of using a camera that’s ISO invariant is that pushing the exposure in software yields less noise than increasing ISO.
You mentioned handheld work with a lens like this-the only way is Strobes. Or continuous light-like an aputure MC-I know it’s not as high fidelity of a documentary work of “nature as it is,” but i find the reliability of where the highlights are within the microcontrast can help a great deal in stacking. I love mushrooms as subjects too but i tend to capture them with bugs or slugs and the like onboard-the stack is often 5 or fewer images since there’s a moving critter in the field- I I’m just about the same place as you, though-I have the technical knowledge but getting the technique down in the field and selecting subjects that will cooperate before I’ve got to go home-eludes me.
Very important to have a good flash and diffuser with the 5x zoom as the aperture needs to be pushed up and the light that passes through it is quite minimal and really useful with cloud cover issues.
Great video as always. I have the same Laowa lens as you, not the one you were testing out today, the 100mm lens. I found I made huge improvements when I started using a flash on the camera. I bought a defuser from Cygnustech. He's in Australia and makes them to order so it took a week for me to get it. It's so good though, I love it. There are cheaper ones available, but I haven't tried those. Anyway, just thought I'd mention a flash because it means you can use a much faster shutter speed so movement is less of a worry 😊
I think if you take a picture with your iPhone “if you have one” then swipe up on the photo you will be given information on what you’re looking at, Im not certain about fungi but it works on tress flowers plants etc. its worth a try 😊
Hi Courtney. Love your videos. I've played around with macro photography with varying success! For me the real game changer was using flash with macro. I think without flash and having to use longer shutter speeds, you open yourself up to movement/vibration in images. Using flash vastly reduces this by freezing the image to the flash duration time. You essentially end up with almost 'normal' duration shutter speeds and controlled lighting at the same time. Hope this helps.
Just wanted to put in my 2¢ on using helicon with a lot of images. I use the program a lot for commercial jewelry and cosmetic imagery using medium format cameras. We sometimes have 200+ images in a stack. Add on top the reflective nature of the subjects and we have a lot of artifact potential. I’ve found doing smaller 20-30 image stacks and then stacking those stacks gives the best outcome. Just something to try if you’re finding yourself having issues!
Thanks for that tip. I'll give that a try.
What you're saying is, if there are 300 images, you stack 20 at a time, then 15 again?
1. 20 sheets each - stacking
2. Stacking re-stacking 15 photos.
Am I right?
@@noko2794 Correct!
would depend on the reflectivity. you can stack 100 images if the subject isnt reflecting too much light
Also there are image alignment tools that do a good job, you should align before stacking.
I've tried macro photography with limited success. So, I have respect for anyone who does it well. And, you, do it well.
I would love to do it, but I am mainly geared towards wildlife with mid to high mm area. And Iowa lenses are sadly so hard to get used here and in my price range ( which is being poor as dirt xD)
I subscribed because I like the fact that you didn't delete this video and showed us your failed effort. And you are not one of those photographers who try to sell the viewers something. 👌
Ditto.
That white toothed slime mould is Ceratiomyxa fruticulosa. And the little baby ones in the last part of the video are Panellus stipticus
I have the 2.5-5x and love it. It’s sharpest around f/4-5.6. I’m sure you already know this but don’t touch anything for about 2 seconds after rotating the rail knob - takes a sec to settle…even when using a remote trigger.
Flash! you need a flash (or other lighting system) to keep consistent lighting on the subject. many use a hood or dual flashes to control lighting to keep that consistency in their stacks. i say this from studying others, preparing for my own experience with digital macro. kind of surprised nobody else has suggested it. really enjoying your videos! 😄
I cannot fathom attempting 5x using natural light. Flash and good diffuser and the macro world becomes your oyster.
Staying away from AutoWhite Balance is helpful with focus stacking as the light can change while shooting a focus stack.
100% agree - flash is CRITICAL in macro. I use 2 Godox with diffusers and even without stacking this lighting control makes a huge difference.
This lens from Laowa does have a LED light that fits over the top of it using the cap threads
@@ty6941 not nearly bright enough, even at 2.5x mag on my laowa around f5.6 (sharpest before diffraction) I drain my flash near max power
Once again Courtney- great video. Over the months of watching you, my photography has improved immensely! Thank you for all the pointers you always pass on to your viewers. As always, we'll be watching over your shoulder from Port Angeles, WA., USA! Take care, be safe, STAY DRY!
such a down to earth, authentic and easy going individual. I appreciate that most of the footage was on location, which is obviously way more work constantly having to setup your recording camera. Not to mention having to lug another camera and tripod around with you through the forest.
As for improving the quality of your pictures, I recommed using a speedlite and a small diy softbox to be able to shoot intependent of natural light. When doing Macro photos, I suggest you go to Mirror Up mode 12:44 so you can minimize camera shake induced by the mirror (provided you have a cable release).
Don't get discouraged. What you attempted to do is extremely difficult to do in the field, as you found out. Even under controlled conditions (indoors) there are many things that can ruin a stack. You may want to use the camera's intervalometer to take the number of shots you need, one shot every five seconds or so. Then all you have to do is turn the rail's wheel right after each shot, and take your hands off the rail. The five second delay should be enough to let any vibrations dissipate. You can find out in advance how many shots you will need by focusing on the nearest part of the subject and counting the turns it takes to get to the farthest. As for the shifting light, you may want to consider using a flash and a diffuser for macro shots. Set the camera's aperture, shutter speed, and ISO so that without flash you get a black frame. Then dial in the flash power needed to properly illuminate the scene. This takes a bit of trial and error if you are using the flash in manual mode (as recommended). I find that anywhere between 1/8 and 1/16 power works well at the short distances involved.
With all the rain you experience, you are an honorary coastal British Columbia resident. I think you should go for a "boots" sponsorship.
Britain is famously rainy
I have a Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x Macro which I use with my Canon 5Ds. I also have a focusing rail. I think that the big challenge with 5x is that the images are not easily recognizable. When people look at the images, you might get "What is that?" We see the same "strangeness" when we look at the images. So a good strategy (I think) is to pick a tiny structure that will be recognizable, like a single seed from a dandelion gone to seed.
Otherwise, we can end up with Vincini's, "What in the world can THAT be?"
Using flash with a diffuser will get you more consistent light.
There were forest elves in the background when you were prone on the mossy tree,
Thanks Courtney, for my little bit of Sunday zen.
I find your videos incredibly inspiring and a little bit magical. When it comes to close up photography, I believe Macro photographers do it in controlled environments (easier but a lot less fun).
Thank you for showing your failures and I hope you get a chance for a revenge macro photography video! It really goes to show that photography is an art form, and we try to hone our skills to create something we can satisfied with. I love your videos too because it feels like I am discovering and learning through watching them with your quirky humor. Have you tried macro with flash out in the field? I've never done macro myself, but I've watched others that use it to great effect. Good luck in your macro journey!
Your videos are so cosy and you're so ridiculously British and goofy and it's fantastic. You should try underwater macro one day 😜
I wonder if the shutter firing might be causing a bit of vibration, might be worth trying to minimise the length of the arm assembly as much as possible by getting the tripod centre mount as close to the subject as you can..?
Always fun and entertaining! By now you have probably mastered this! As I always say…a great photo is a bonus! What a beautiful place you were in! I enjoyed it all. Thanks for taking me along!
In the field 5x macro is really hard. Any wind, even rain can cause vibration. I would say absolutely no VR or IBIS on a tripod and use a diffused flash to freeze each shot with a higher shutter speed, with high speed synch if your camera supports it etc could help in a situation like that. You're certainly not the only one that has mishaps with 5x macro, no worries. Quite refreshing watching a video about realities actually. Keep up the good work, cheers, Robert.
@@FriendlyEagle7 Leave no trace
Leave only footprints, take only photos
@@FriendlyEagle7 oh a coin that's fine, I'm talking about flora and fauna
I have the same combination, Laowa lens with the NISI rail. It's so sensetive to any movenet that as some wrote here, you need to wait between each rotation of the rail control to let it set.
doing this in field is very ambitious, especially for the first time use of the set. Even the micro movements of the tripod can influence the sharpenss.
As someone who loves macro nature photography and have been doing it for decades, I salute your attempts in trying this ultra macro work! To be honest, after watching the time you invested vs the results you got, I have no interest in trying this genre of nature macro photography. So, I'm really glad you tried it and posted this video! BTW, I love Helicon Focus software. I have always had great success with Method A myself. Take care Victoria and may you have consistent soft light and little or no wind for future outings!
At the end of the day she will succeed and a door to a whole new world will open. Always strive for what is just achievable. Don't be left behind. Got my first camera in 1964, still striving, still learning, it's a blast. Thank you Courtney and yes I subscribed.
This lens by laowa is a beast. It gives you opportunities you never had before but can drive you mad. I use the additional ring containing LED light. It makes photographing more easy but the ring can get hot. I prefer to use this lens at home when there´s definetely no wind but constant light. I photograph details of flowers or vegetables. A good opportunity for rainy days. Greeting from Bernd Laukoetter from Gemany
I was a macro guy 10 years ago and I'm suprised to see how little has changed. That lense is a bit of a game changer for us Nikon people, (our own MPE65, finally). Almost makes me want to pick up the old D800 again.
You did a great job of not shouting expletives and blaming anything but yourself when you saw that the fungi in your initial set of images was not sharp. Way to stay composed :)
Nice video! I use this lens both on a rail and hand-held. It's the perfect range for slime molds.
At last, someone who is honest about what they are trying to achieve. This has really given me hope, the majority of us do these things and give up because we think we are crap at it, when in fact, after watching this particular video, we just need to practice practice practice until we iron out all the issues attached to achieving best results. I have avoided ultra macro because I also like working in the field. sitting in. Sitting in a studio, for me anyway, defeats the reason I’m out in the natural environment. Thank you Courtney, I don’t feel so intimidated now! 👍
Going from 1:1 to 2:1 was a long learning experience for me, I cannot imagine how much more challenging it would be to go to 5:1, but I want to 😁. Thank you or sharing your experiences with us!
Good idea with the eyeglass and an excellent tutorial on the pros and cons of macro photography in the field using a focussing rail. I definitely related to your video having the Nisi rail attempting to photograph a Damselfly head while it was supposedly was asleep covered in morning dew. I remember on my 25th shot it moved its head. I’m sure it was the sound of my old Canon 5D mkiii shutter that woke it up.
I’ve watched an experts handheld successful attempt at a Robberfly using at high iso and fast multiburst slowly rocking forward. I think it’s worth whacking the iso up even on a tripod because a slight breeze or raindrop can move the subject. You can always denoising the final blended image.
I’ve adapted my nisi rail to have a springy pin that is fixed on the rail and bent so it fits into the knurl of the rail knob. This clicks with each knurl when you rotated the knob for accurate increments when you get down to the super macro. The fold up crank handle is useless .
I’m no expert and haven’t nailed any images yet but it’s great fun trying isn’t it.
Look forward to your next super macro shoot.
Hi Courtney I have just found your channel. I will now be lost for the next few days catching up on all the videos. What is even better is you are working around where I live. You even had my house in the background in one video OK about three miles away. Keep up the great work.
Dear Courtney, thank you so much for doing the micro-shoot(s) and filming them and uploading them here. I enjoyed the whole video - even when you failed, you showed us what went through your mind and displayed the results. This is not a failure as such, this is going through the lessons of our craft and how much more you have a grip of this feature of our skills. Thank you so much - I really enjoyed this. Respect! :¬)
I highly recommend a geared tripod head to limit camera shake when composing. They allow you to make very fine adjustments without loosening the ball and shaking the whole ensemble, similar to what the focus rail does. I have been using a Benro GD3WH for years and love it.
I upgraded to a wemacro auto rail a few weeks ago and the difference has been night and day. I can do 4x and 10x stacks with microscope objectives and it honestly just works which is crazy. The only problem with microscope objectives is that they flatten the field a lot. Portraits are almost sterile and analytical because it's hard to get context when your depth of field is 45 micron. We all have problems when we start out. Just keep pushing forward into the ultra macro space because it's a beautiful world.
I always enjoy your outings and wry humor but the editing side is equally fun. Thanks for making me chuckle over my dinner tonight! At least you're not coping with the winds I experience here in the northern Great Plains during the shooting of such subjects. I'm certain that you'll have this down to a fine science in the near future, though. Others have made some excellent little points in the comments and I haven't anything earth-shattering to add. Simply keep up the great work and thanks for sharing. :)
Don`t give up Courtney . I did the same thing and was not happy but the more I tried the better i became I have found no matter what focus rail you use be it computer driven or manually there will be some kind of movement whether it be you or the shutter in the Camera. It is going to take time just keep Practicing Best of luck and it was still a Great photo for first time out using the Lense..
Your production quality is really excellent. This gave me huge gardeners world/countryfile vibes and I loved it!
Thanks for the demonstration! It’s is amazing to watch and learn from someone using the equipment and demonstrating learning through failure. Most videos show only success.
Wow, this is awesome! Always a treat to watch your videos! Thank you!❤
Hello, Long time macro/micro photographer from the far, far, side of the pond, (California, USA). Given your stated preference for being out in the field photographing what interests you in the field in mind, I share the following observations and information. I have the Laowa 2.4-5.0X lens also. I have been most successful in taking macro photographs in the field with the Laowa when I use it with the Novoflex Castle-M focusing Rack. The Novoflex Castle-M focusing Rack was designed with the Laowa 2.4-5.0X lens in mind. If I am just wandering about in the field looking for interesting creatures and fauna I mount two or three Adaptalux Flash Arms with diffusers on a two sided Arca-Swiss rail. Atop that is my D850, Laowa lens mounted on my Novoflex rail. Of course everything mounted on a sturdy tripod. I am not affiliated with or recommending any of the above mentioned equipment. There are many alternative equipment configurations that will work just as well. Godox sells some excellent flash units. Using flash units with diffusers work well to reduce lack of sharpness in my wandering about macro photography. Flash units when used appropriately "freeze" the subject in the image you are trying to capture. I also recommend Lester Lefkowitz's "Manual of Close-up and Macro Photography, Volume I and II", and/or "Macro Photography, The Universe At Our Feet" by Don Komarechka. Again not affiliated with either. A website that I subscribe to, in addition to yours, is "photomacrocrophy.net". Best of success in your adventures in the world of macrophotography.
Thats like $1700 worth of equipment. You can throw money at any problem but I think this channel is more geared towards the hobbyist. She doesnt even own the lens ffs.
You don‘t need a focussing rail for 5x, it‘s really not that high of a magnification, you can stack handheld with a flash and a good diffuser, no problem at all.
A decent focusing rail is an awesome piece of gear. I have long carried a Novoflex Castel-Mini which has served me very very well. Your NISI looks awesome. Excellent Presentation ❤ One really needs to experinment with tripods / telephoto lenses / macro lenses / focusing rails
You’re a real trooper!! Love your work!!
Your video was quite enjoyable to watch. I appreciate the topic you've chosen and how you went about relaying it to us. I also enjoyed your personality.
Love the video! Just found your channel. I will add something, I think you are missing a vital item of equipment which has taken my macro shots recently up a level.... a good flash.
Picked up a Godox V1 and made a home made diffuser, it makes all the difference as you wont encounter issues with light changing etc. You can also use higher shutter speeds, just ensure to use HSS if you plan on using more than 200 shutter speed.
Keep up the good work!
LOL @ the scene of people looking at you there, i think you should of said "come on over for macro workshop! You will absolutely love it!" 😁
I just stumbled across your video and I'm very impressed. I have never heard of a focus rail before so it's true that you learn something every day. I've thought of trying macro photos before but already have enough on my plate as it is. I can really appreciate your passion that you have for your photography !!!
okay here's what you do. set up cam, max bellows, aperture down to f. 64 . Almost no light hits the film plane. Then you fire the flash packs again and again, bang bang bang bang, and you just pound that scene with light. By the end of it, the scene is burnt onto your retinas and you have full d.o.f. over the image. For jewellery you have to tent the scene with diffuser. Shooting with a Sinar 4x5" monorail also helps.
I was very much expecting you to be dressed in a superhero outfit while shooting macro. This was a decent second option. Some lovely images.
Ive tried macro with stacking and youre right it aint easy. Obviously the dof for each frame is microscopic. I made a test rig with pins in a piece of wood to practice on. Recently with a mirrorless camera and electronic focus the camera works out how many frames you need, given it knows the dof and the user sets the front and back focus limit. The results were it took 150 to photograph my car key. Thats far more than I would have done with manual control. So perhaps more frames needed, I don’t know. Zerene is my preferred stacking software. You’re doing great work.
Have you considered using a speed light to get more consistant lighting? Might also help with sharpness
I have an older version of this Laowa called the Ultra Macro. I also have the dedicated ring light for it. It produces seriously interesting images even without focus stacking. Seems to perform best at about f/5.6 across the magnification range. An absolutely fun lens to work with.
You are awesome. Your passion, passion for an ordinary field, love for walks with a camera in the forest is inspiring for me. I have periods when I do not touch the camera for a very long time, but you in your films, with your naturalness, remind me of what I love in photography, nature, forests, but sometimes I neglect it. Warmest greetings and thank you for these films :)
This was great - really interesting video about a subject I know next to nothing about. Loved it!
Hi Courtney, I bet you are extremely patient for doing macro photography! I use my macro lens (EF-M 28mm f/3.5 IS STM) mostly to get a flatter plane of focus on bigger items rather than to photograph small items.
Hi, Courtney.
Very good video.
I am also completely in love with macro photography.
I have been doing this for almost 25 years now and with great pleasure.
Of course, I sometimes do other work, but I think macro is the most beautiful side of photography.
On a side note: I challenge you to visit places like this in stiletto heels 😀 😀 😀. Then put on an overall.
But now without fooling around, you capture macro photography very beautifully and well. That little magnifying glass you showed introduced me to macro photography. I was a member of a nature association at the time and was part of the group that researched fungi. I had been taking photographs for some time, but when I looked through this small magnifying glass the macro virus got me. I work with the micro 4/3 system, namely the Lumix G9II and the 60 mm macro Zuiko and 30 mm Lumix/Leica macro lenses. And sometimes I also add an extension tube in between. I am impressed with the lenses you use. This is not a "toy" but two very good macro lenses. The 5X magnification system is unique because as far as I know, only Canon has this system. And the ones you have in your possession are also available for Micro 4/3. I also have the focus rail that you use and I am very happy with it. A good tool for macro photography. You certainly don't have to be disappointed with the first photo with 5x magnification. I dare not compare my first attempt, because that's all I can call it, next to yours. I enjoyed watching this video. It's a pity for me that due to my disability, I can no longer crawl on the ground through the forest. But sometimes I take something home and try to take a photo of it. I know this is not entirely fair, but I really have no choice but to pursue my beautiful hobby in this way.
Thank you for this beautiful and good video, I enjoyed it, Courtney.
Sincere friendly greetings from the Netherlands,
Antoine.
I'd do some indoor shots first to get a feel for it. As others have said using a flash puts you in control of light, you'll need to overpower the light quite a bit if it's half sunny half overcast. I usually use a pocket bouncer with a white plastic bag (the crinkly type) over it to extend the 'softbox' over and around the subject, just out of shot. Stick a short strip of paper to the bottom of the lens end that will bounce some light under the subject overhangs. This gives that nice soft tone you see with overcast light. Sometimes you need a second flash to light up the background if it's farther away or you'll end up with a black background. Or fake a background by moving a branch or leaf closer in and pin it down. Or take your subject to your home studio ;)
Check on the camera digital zoomed in all the way for good focus and follow it with the slider, 1/3 overlap should do the trick. Not sure what aperture you used, but I'd use as much stopped down as diffraction allows.
Not sure if the stacking software can export the aligned images, but sometimes you can just manually stack them and selectively mask in/out sharp/blurry parts if the stacker didn't quite get it.
Great video into the realities of attempting ultra-macro photography in the field Courtney. It's not difficult to figure out why this is so hard to achieve when you consider the following: attempting to photograph subjects that are millimeters in size, using a tripod + extension tubes + macro lens + camera + macro rails + wet uneven and nature littered ground = miniscule chances for success!!
Kudos to anyone achieving the near impossible!
All the best for your channel and your photographic endeavors Courtney!
Went to your link of the Laowa Lens and the Pictures are awesome. Price is reasonable. Cheers!
The tip in the comment section about Helicon and doing in smaller batches is great but ALSO. If you can set up wind barriers around the subject it will help even more with les artifacts. I know i's more stuff to carry, but some wooden canes and fold up light reflectors work well.
Excellent video! I’m inspired by your patience.
Excellent content as always Courtney! Your videos are engaging to watch and must be a lot of work to put together.
It takes a special kind of person to take so much care and persist with x5 magnification. I'm still at the x2 level, love my Laowa 65mm for moments like these. Good luck with your endeavours.
It was brave of you to attempt to use this lens in the field. I'd be tempted to take the branch back home where I can place the tripod on a solid floor and have total control over the lighting. You certainly gave yourself a challenge.
Great video Courtney. Like yourself, I'm gone a bit wild on Macro lately. Looking forward to your next one already.
I have tried macro with my homemade telescope, light is definitely not a issue for me considering my aperture is 127mm which makes the scope F5.3
You could try running a video instead of individual shots, it's common in planetary photography due to the brightness of the planet and it's resistance to changing conditions is quite nice, you convert the video to individual shots then stack them.
@10:29 set a 2 second timer on the shutter. Every time you touch the focus rail dial, you are introducing vibrations and movement into the system. The 2 seconds will give enough time for those to dissipate.
Enjoyed the video as usual Courtney.
I admire your patience doing macro photography.
I think that Laowa should give you that lens, so come on Laowa, and also what about sponsorship.
It's such a shame that the conditions were not in your favour.
Look forward to the next one.
I have had this geared head for about 2 years now. Bought it as it has 3 way movement, compact, relatively cheap. I have no complaints with the knobs for my usage, which is mainly large product shoots. The only thing I think they need to improve is the camera clamp adjustment dial immediately adjacent to the locking lever, it loosens overtime. I have solved this with locking glue. Other minor point is the bottom bubble level is poorly positioned, right in the middle of the head so you can't really see it. I have had the Arca D4 and Leofoto geared heads, but prefer this one because of its size and weight.
lovely video courtney, its nice stumbling on a nice relaxing channel to add to the list :)
I was thinking about not seeing any Courtney Victoria videos just yesterday! I've done a fair amount of macro work but never at 5x. My kit is a bellows and a Nikon manual focus 105 mm lens. Been playing with scheimpflug effect to get the depth of field I want. It's so much fun!
I look forward to more macro videos. Frankly though I was hoping for some dancing in the woods!
You do a great job! Don't let the slime mold win.
I admire your patience with focus stacking on location. I find it hard enough to get through a session indoors with controlled lighting.
Excellent video and identifies a key learning which is the techniques required for this sort of photography take time and patience to master. When I decided to head down this path I took a different approach adding a Raynox to my existing macro lens as a starting point. I also bought a plastic focus rail as a toe in the water which was a fail as it was not strong enough to control the camera precisely. High magnification requires good light, a Godox wireless lighting system was acquired to replace my previous wired lights, offering more control and easy off camera placement options. Peaking is awesome but a larger screen would have been even more awesome, I never got around to that however. An external screen is easy to mount on the tripod and the mount comes with the vanguard tripod anyway.
I spent a lot of time indoors working on technique and even managed to gather up some half decent images outside after a while. Combating movement and funky light changes outdoors seems to be the main challenge but as someone else mentioned rather than trying to process huge stacks into one image, do them in stages, progressively stacking stacked images seems to be a better approach much of the time.
Thanks for sharing your interesting content.
I enjoyed your video despite having made different choices at nearly every turn. I'm using Canon cameras and have the AstrHori 25mm f/2.8 2-5x macro. I chose that lens over the Laowa partly for the fact it went down to 2x rather than 2.5x but mostly because it is a lot cheaper than the Laowa. I also use Zerene Stacker rather than Helicon. I am of the opinion that these choices are all less important than things we can't change (like diffraction, wind and weather) and each choice will out perform the others in some instances. I found it interesting that the AstrHori has a dot on the aperture ring between f/2.8 and f/4 (f/3.5?) that also seems to be where I get best results at 5x. I find it hard to believe that the dot was placed there by accident. I see some reviewers that claim one lens is sharper than another but I have not yet found one that convinces me that they understand the importance of the near total lack of depth of field at 5x (or 2x, even). If you are advancing 1/10th of a millimeter between shots and the depth of field is 1/20th, the question of which lens is sharper is moot. I'll never know which lens, which camera or which software is 'better' because I will not be owning the other options and opinions from using a loaner for a month will show more about your abilities than about the gear. My hobby is shooting small things, not accumulating redundant gear.
Another choice we made differently is that my Laowa 2:1 macro is the 85mm f/5.6 which I chose for what I consider to be a really good reason. I never use a macro lens at f/2.8 so carrying all that weight and bulk when shooting at f/5.6 to f/11 makes no sense to me.
Very nice video! Liked and Subscribed.
Thought you would have a flash as doing stacks. Another great video.
Tricky indeed! What makes it worse is that you can't always tell until you get home if you have missed any focus points. Never give up!
Courtney, great video as always.
I visited this weekend the tulip park ‘Keukenhof’ in the Netherlands (where I live), I hadn't done macro photography for a long time and I really enjoyed it a lot, seeing the small details that make up the big scenes we capture are the ones that show you the greatness of nature.
Thank you very much for sharing your experiences. I love it.
Very nice video. Here’s something to consider: I have the AstrHori 25mm 2x-5x, modeled on the Laowa. Using it in the field usually requires adding flash for consistent lighting. I use the Laowa/KuangRen KX-800 twin flash (with diffusers) and highly, highly recommend it. It brings the flexibility of studio lighting into the field. I think, once you adjust to a flash-based workflow, you would find more keepers & successful stacks.
Yay! Another video from Courtney. They're addictive (because of your personality and enthusiasm! We can clearly see how much you love what you do ☺️).
It would be great if you could try renting a mirrorless camera like the Lumix S5ii with the nes 100mm macro. The automatic focus stacking is awesome and makes the rail redundant.
Keep up the wonderful videos ☺️
Suburb video Courtney. You are learning so there is no failure. It is evident from the comments that you have found that the macro community is passionate and willing to share experiences! I always enjoy your presentation style! It’s too bad you didn’t get to give the photobombers at the end of the video some dance lessons.
Talk to Lower. They know the photographers that do this regularly. You want to get better? Shoot with photographers and talk to photographers who photograph better than you. Don't give up. Always a pleasure watching your videos.
I love this girls enthousiasm! Lovely eyes aswell!
Well done & well presented. I certainly enjoy your attention to woodland Macro - you're inspiring. Thanks from Canada
Like others pointed out, flash is key. It freezes the tiny movements and gives you consistent light. If you fancy, a torch towards the background can provide ambience. Flash is how others can take macros handheld :)
Anyway, keep up, nice videos and excellent attitude.
Those ppl are like what in the F is that lady doing on that log?
Spendiferous video. Can feel your frustration, and your determination. Wonderful story line, rich content, and your personality is inspiring. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome vlog thanks. Have been looking into this myself and was great to learn the potential challenges.
Cool video. Thanks for sharing the experience of trying a new technique.
I bought a Cognysis computerized rail. You tell it where to start and end and what interval and it’s automated. Kind of pricey but makes the process easier. They also offer a battery pack for field use. Keep up the great work, love the videos!
That's a difficult process. Interesting to see how it's done properly. All the gear and technique requirements.
After watching your recent macro photography videos, I decided to purchase a set of extension tubes. I figured this would be a less expensive way to get started. Admittedly, I have a long way to go, but I have been enjoying the journey. Keep up the amazing work you are doing.
I’ve used Affinity Photo for fairly good results. To compensate for images with varied lighting, you can adjust the exposure if in RAW format. The main problem with varied lighting is that some images may be less diffuse lighted, others more. But if the exposure doesn’t need to be pushed too much, and if you use Base ISO, you can get away with a fairly good image if the lighting in none of the images isn’t diffuse enough, because non-diffuse light can cause specular reflections. Possibly, it may be the best idea to use an intervalometer to set enough seconds between images to give yourself time to change focus & to let the camera settle without vibration. Another idea is to slowly turn the knob while using continuous burst mode, while using a fast shutter speed so that camera movement doesn’t show. You may need to know the buffer of the camera to know how many images can be done before shutter lag starts. Main advantage of studio setting is that you can use a particularly strong light source to be able to make for quick shutter speed; otherwise, for best results, use base ISO and use software to increase exposure; the advantage of using a camera that’s ISO invariant is that pushing the exposure in software yields less noise than increasing ISO.
You mentioned handheld work with a lens like this-the only way is Strobes. Or continuous light-like an aputure MC-I know it’s not as high fidelity of a documentary work of “nature as it is,” but i find the reliability of where the highlights are within the microcontrast can help a great deal in stacking. I love mushrooms as subjects too but i tend to capture them with bugs or slugs and the like onboard-the stack is often 5 or fewer images since there’s a moving critter in the field-
I I’m just about the same place as you, though-I have the technical knowledge but getting the technique down in the field and selecting subjects that will cooperate before I’ve got to go home-eludes me.
This is the first vid i saw from you and i subscribed❤
I love the calmness, your gentle voice and touch.
Very important to have a good flash and diffuser with the 5x zoom as the aperture needs to be pushed up and the light that passes through it is quite minimal and really useful with cloud cover issues.
Great video as always. I have the same Laowa lens as you, not the one you were testing out today, the 100mm lens. I found I made huge improvements when I started using a flash on the camera. I bought a defuser from Cygnustech. He's in Australia and makes them to order so it took a week for me to get it. It's so good though, I love it. There are cheaper ones available, but I haven't tried those. Anyway, just thought I'd mention a flash because it means you can use a much faster shutter speed so movement is less of a worry 😊
I think if you take a picture with your iPhone “if you have one” then swipe up on the photo you will be given information on what you’re looking at, Im not certain about fungi but it works on tress flowers plants etc. its worth a try 😊
Wow, I thought regular macro was hard enough. This is something else. I admire your persistence!
The moss might have been interesting as well with that sort of magnification.
Excellent video Courtney it’s always good to try new things.
excellent try Courtney keep pushing and never give up. You will nail it next time. I'd know it.
Sometimes.. sometimes.. practice makes perfection... Keep going!!
Hi Courtney. Love your videos. I've played around with macro photography with varying success! For me the real game changer was using flash with macro. I think without flash and having to use longer shutter speeds, you open yourself up to movement/vibration in images. Using flash vastly reduces this by freezing the image to the flash duration time. You essentially end up with almost 'normal' duration shutter speeds and controlled lighting at the same time. Hope this helps.