I appreciate the time you took to show others how to do this. It shows 22,000 views but only 126 likes. So as a way to pay you back for helping me, I am going to try to help you. 1. If you are going to do videos, then find a way to get your camera setup so it is not in the way. 2. While the repair may not have required you to remove the hose you clamped, leaving it in made it difficult to see the repair. When you have to remove something to increase video production quality, go ahead and get it out of the way. You can tell people they don't need to remove it, but don't leave it in if it makes viewing difficult. 3. I believe your friend needed an actuator. You said, "the thermostat is closed". Right. When the engine is cool, the thermostat will be closed. When the engine is hot, the thermostat will open. Therefore, you would not know if the part was functioning until the engine was hot. As for the symptom of "heater working and then stopping," that would not point to the thermostat. If the thermostat is stuck in the closed position, the heater is NEVER going to work AND the fan will come on when it is cold outside. The fan comes on because the engine is hot. The actuator is hard to get to, so it makes sense to me to change the thermostat first no matter what. I do not know anything more about an actuator other than it opens a path to the heater core. I do not know what the symptoms would be if it failed. 4. You skipped the removal of the air intake. I undersand it is easy for you to remove, but I will have to find another video. I am not going to do it unless I watch once. Include all the steps. Even the easy ones. The best DIY videos, imo, are the ones that type steps on the screen. 1. Get tools. 8mm, clamps. 2. Remove tubes from intake assembly. 3. Remove intake assembly. 4. Clamp water hoses. etc. It makes it easier for the viewer to find the start of each step in case you need to see it again fast. It also helps when you are putting things back together. Figure out how to do that. It makes a big difference. I will delete this comment in a few days, or after you respond, because I do not want to seem critical. With 22,000 views, you should have more than 126 likes. Something's not right. I like the video. I don't think I can do the repair because of that one 8mm screw that is on the other side. (Don't tell me something is difficult without teaching me how to make it easier. Where did you get those timny tools, and that electric wrench? I don't havetools like. I need to get one of those. )I wish someone else would film how you went about getting your hand in there. I will give it a try, but it does not look like anything I am going to be able to do. Alright! thanks again. [Update: Same day] My service tech told me to check my coolant level. I did. I had to add quite a bit. The heater works fine now. When the level is low, and the thermostat comes on, if the coolant is low, you won't be able to send any coolant to the heater core. No coolant in the core: no heat in the truck. Now I can return the thermostat I bought.]
Props to you Xlnt video. I just paid $275 to replace the damn temp sensor thinking the P0128 code was for the sensor, as I believed it was original and likely 200k miles old. Of course,...2weeks later same code comes up and and so it's on to the thermostat. which ill do myself now ! thanks again. ** I KNEW I shoulda replaced the T stat when i replaced one of those pesky leaking Coolant hoses tied to the Tstat housing 18 mo ago ...🤔🤬
Jfyi, im changing mine because after a water pump change and a new thermostat, the high-speed fan runs all the time. After some research, it was recommended to me to use the motocraft brand thermostat. I guess the 5.0 is picky about their thermostats. We'll see if it fixes the problem.
Is someone able to clarify the o-ring comments. Is there 1 or 2, and which side does it go on if there is only one. The video only shows 1, but you switch sides on the install.
@@737mechanicmy sons 2014 f150 he says the heater is only blowing hot air if he accelerates at faster speeds and that his truck seems to be over heating? No temperature light comes on but he says it seems to be running hot going down the highway. I figured he either is low on coolant or it could be thermostat
@@Brumasterj Check the coolant level first, but it sounds like it could be the water pump but the thermostat would be easier than the water pump if you wanted to illuminate that first.
My truck is at the dealer and got locked down with the power outage (hurricane) I am seriously considering getting it back from them as soon as they open and do the thermostat myself. What happened with mine is that the aux. Fan refused to turn on, and my engine was overheating. I am thinking the thermostat was sticking closed, and the coolant temp never went high enough to turn the fan on. I am thinking this because the level of the reservoir never moved at all while the engine was overheating. Then all of a sudden it popped open and started cooling and the res. level dropped. Does this sound like sound logic? They have had it over a week now and I need it BACK!!
Any help would be appreciated. I have a 2012 F150 5.0 The truck sat for about a month. After i get it running and driving it a while, if i stop at a red light or stop sign all the hot air stops blowing and old air comes out. As soon as I get moving again, hot air comes back. The temperature guage seems to move down and up but its very very little. I'm thinking its the thermostat. I'm no rich professional mechanic and before I start throwing money and tearing stuff apart, a little reassurance about the solution would be appreciated.
You didn’t show the rubber seal around the thermostat. If that still goes bad, affect his performance as well, maybe that’s what was wrong with it, but you didn’t show it.
This engine does not have a seal around the thermostat, once the thermostat is installed and the oring is installed the water neck compresses the oring up against the thermostat sealing the thermostat and water neck at the same time. dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/strapr1/ba600726847ac4c8ec09625d9d8da21c/b1fc619e509eabed154333d5af47e47f.png
There is only 1 oring. You install the thermostat and then the o-ring unless you remove the housing from the block then there is an oring between the housing and the block. Below is a diagram showing the setup. #10 is the only oring required when replacing only the thermostat, but if you remove or replace the housing then you need o-ring #7 also. dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/strapr1/ba600726847ac4c8ec09625d9d8da21c/26701bad92ab34ea56caa8cdcfd13d5d.png
It appears you put the o-ring on the "backside" (in first) but it came out on the "frontside". Your pliars are stopping it from falling as you pulled it out. I'm still going to follow your steps tomorrow with one little adjustment 😊 Thanks for the video!
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Working on cars in the rain just proves you're a man. My nephew spent his birthday with me and his grandpa working on cars in the rain. Good stuff.
I appreciate the time you took to show others how to do this. It shows 22,000 views but only 126 likes. So as a way to pay you back for helping me, I am going to try to help you.
1. If you are going to do videos, then find a way to get your camera setup so it is not in the way.
2. While the repair may not have required you to remove the hose you clamped, leaving it in made it difficult to see the repair. When you have to remove something to increase video production quality, go ahead and get it out of the way. You can tell people they don't need to remove it, but don't leave it in if it makes viewing difficult.
3. I believe your friend needed an actuator. You said, "the thermostat is closed". Right. When the engine is cool, the thermostat will be closed. When the engine is hot, the thermostat will open. Therefore, you would not know if the part was functioning until the engine was hot. As for the symptom of "heater working and then stopping," that would not point to the thermostat. If the thermostat is stuck in the closed position, the heater is NEVER going to work AND the fan will come on when it is cold outside. The fan comes on because the engine is hot. The actuator is hard to get to, so it makes sense to me to change the thermostat first no matter what. I do not know anything more about an actuator other than it opens a path to the heater core. I do not know what the symptoms would be if it failed.
4. You skipped the removal of the air intake. I undersand it is easy for you to remove, but I will have to find another video. I am not going to do it unless I watch once. Include all the steps. Even the easy ones. The best DIY videos, imo, are the ones that type steps on the screen. 1. Get tools. 8mm, clamps. 2. Remove tubes from intake assembly. 3. Remove intake assembly. 4. Clamp water hoses. etc. It makes it easier for the viewer to find the start of each step in case you need to see it again fast. It also helps when you are putting things back together. Figure out how to do that. It makes a big difference.
I will delete this comment in a few days, or after you respond, because I do not want to seem critical. With 22,000 views, you should have more than 126 likes. Something's not right. I like the video. I don't think I can do the repair because of that one 8mm screw that is on the other side. (Don't tell me something is difficult without teaching me how to make it easier. Where did you get those timny tools, and that electric wrench? I don't havetools like. I need to get one of those. )I wish someone else would film how you went about getting your hand in there. I will give it a try, but it does not look like anything I am going to be able to do. Alright! thanks again.
[Update: Same day] My service tech told me to check my coolant level. I did. I had to add quite a bit. The heater works fine now. When the level is low, and the thermostat comes on, if the coolant is low, you won't be able to send any coolant to the heater core. No coolant in the core: no heat in the truck. Now I can return the thermostat I bought.]
Thank you for the tips! The Duralast thermostat I bought didn't come with the gasket either. You are right they should.
Thanks for showing this procedure as I own a 2015 F150 with 5.0…this will help me in the future, I am sure
Props to you Xlnt video. I just paid $275 to replace the damn temp sensor thinking the P0128 code was for the sensor, as I believed it was original and likely 200k miles old. Of course,...2weeks later same code comes up and and so it's on to the thermostat. which ill do myself now ! thanks again.
** I KNEW I shoulda replaced the T stat when i replaced one of those pesky leaking Coolant hoses tied to the Tstat housing 18 mo ago ...🤔🤬
Hello
Is the temp sensor the one on passenger mirror or a different one ?
Jfyi, im changing mine because after a water pump change and a new thermostat, the high-speed fan runs all the time. After some research, it was recommended to me to use the motocraft brand thermostat. I guess the 5.0 is picky about their thermostats. We'll see if it fixes the problem.
Did it fix the fan issue
Mine has same issues
Same issue. Did it work?
Did it fix the problem for yall?
Im going to try this after trying the expansion valve and every other possible fix that didn’t work
You know with how easy it was, and the truck being older by age anyway, and having a few miles, not really a loss to do a thermostat anyway.
Is someone able to clarify the o-ring comments. Is there 1 or 2, and which side does it go on if there is only one. The video only shows 1, but you switch sides on the install.
There is only 1. Number 10 in the diagram.
dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/strapr1/e3987b18478ad018463e922317e00833/6bc1eac6f72f31adab0fec2b18ebe252.png
So did he say if that fixed his issue or was there another issue
That fixed it.
@@737mechanicmy sons 2014 f150 he says the heater is only blowing hot air if he accelerates at faster speeds and that his truck seems to be over heating?
No temperature light comes on but he says it seems to be running hot going down the highway.
I figured he either is low on coolant or it could be thermostat
@@Brumasterj Check the coolant level first, but it sounds like it could be the water pump but the thermostat would be easier than the water pump if you wanted to illuminate that first.
My truck is at the dealer and got locked down with the power outage (hurricane) I am seriously considering getting it back from them as soon as they open and do the thermostat myself. What happened with mine is that the aux. Fan refused to turn on, and my engine was overheating. I am thinking the thermostat was sticking closed, and the coolant temp never went high enough to turn the fan on. I am thinking this because the level of the reservoir never moved at all while the engine was overheating. Then all of a sudden it popped open and started cooling and the res. level dropped. Does this sound like sound logic? They have had it over a week now and I need it BACK!!
Any help would be appreciated. I have a 2012 F150 5.0
The truck sat for about a month. After i get it running and driving it a while, if i stop at a red light or stop sign all the hot air stops blowing and old air comes out. As soon as I get moving again, hot air comes back. The temperature guage seems to move down and up but its very very little. I'm thinking its the thermostat. I'm no rich professional mechanic and before I start throwing money and tearing stuff apart, a little reassurance about the solution would be appreciated.
@@TaterAvila make sure it is completely full of anti freeze.
You didn’t show the rubber seal around the thermostat. If that still goes bad, affect his performance as well, maybe that’s what was wrong with it, but you didn’t show it.
This engine does not have a seal around the thermostat, once the thermostat is installed and the oring is installed the water neck compresses the oring up against the thermostat sealing the thermostat and water neck at the same time.
dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/strapr1/ba600726847ac4c8ec09625d9d8da21c/b1fc619e509eabed154333d5af47e47f.png
There are 2 O rings required. 1 goes up in the housing before the thermostat.
There is only 1 oring. You install the thermostat and then the o-ring unless you remove the housing from the block then there is an oring between the housing and the block. Below is a diagram showing the setup. #10 is the only oring required when replacing only the thermostat, but if you remove or replace the housing then you need o-ring #7 also.
dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/strapr1/ba600726847ac4c8ec09625d9d8da21c/26701bad92ab34ea56caa8cdcfd13d5d.png
It appears you put the o-ring on the "backside" (in first) but it came out on the "frontside". Your pliars are stopping it from falling as you pulled it out.
I'm still going to follow your steps tomorrow with one little adjustment 😊
Thanks for the video!