The Ultimate Guide to Sealing Foam Props and Costumes - Prop: Shop
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- The complete list of materials and a chart comparing them can be found on our website!
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No Sealing 1:40
Spray Paint 3:49
Rubber 4:44
PVA Glues 6:59
Plasti Dip 9:35
Epoxies 11:03
Urethane 13:22
Combinations 15:18
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since i keep coming back to this video i made a timestamp list (mostly for myself but maybe it'll be useful to someone!)
1:09 *EVA FOAM*
1:41 *NO SEALING PRODUCT*
2:08 heat sealing
2:21 paint
3:51 spray paint
*RUBBERS*
4:45 latex rubber
6:16 neoprene
7:00 *PVA GLUES*
wood glue, flexbond, mod podge
9:37 *PLASTIDIP* (and flexidip)
11:05 *EPOXIES*
xtc-3d, epsilon
12:53 epsilon pro
13:23 *URETHANES*
smoothcast 300
14:03 urecoat
15:19 C-C-C-C-COMBO
I am not a costume designer, but rather an architecture student. This video was extremely helpful to understand how to cover my foam architectural models!
I get so many people calling me insane for using a blow torch.
I mean I am insane and they are right, but hey dude, it works.
For sealing the foam before priming and painting?
Heat sealing the most metal way....maybe using lava
i use a candle
You guys are doing it all wrong, you need to just fly straight to the surface of the sun
OMG! Your best video ever!
Thanks Ted :)
You guys rock so much! You too TED! Made a Arthur Knights of Justice two years ago and making a Ike cosplay for AWA in a week using a lot of the methods you guys recommend! If you are ever nearby, let us know. Love to visit and show off what you guys technically helped to create
Thank you for watching our videos!
I saw someone use PlastiDip on EVA foam. She showed you could get the wrinkles out with a heatgun, at your destination. I've not seen anything else do this, thought I'd mention it. You all rock!
Yeah that was our pal Kamui, she's super clever! =D
This is now my favourite video.
I'm coming back to this everytime I grab my heat gun and floor foam
Some of these seals, like plasti-dip, can have the wrinkles removed by applying some heat even after being painted. not all of them though. KamuiCosplay has a good video that shows how some of these seals react to stress and if they can be fixed with heat
Yeah Kamui did a great job showing how to fix some wrinkles. =D
PlastiDip ftw
BILL (and everyone) I HAVE ANOTHER AMAZING AND CHEAP WAY TO SEAL FOAM!!! There is an acrylic medium called GAC 900. it is a medium that you mix with acrylic paint and it makes it VERY flexible, I use it all the time now
McKenna Monheim noice
The word GAC makes me think of webkinz. Thanks for the tipp
Hi I have some questions about this stuff. I’ve never seen it used on foam, only on shoes/shirts. Does it allow for more paint to go on top of it after it dries? Is it toxic as they say? And do you have any videos demonstrating how the process works on foam?
This is AMAZINGLY comprehensive. Thank you! I was shocked that you included Urecoat, which is what I have lying around, so I apreciate your thoughts on it!
Awesome video! Great information that everyone who uses EVA should watch.
Just when I think you guys can't get any better, you go and put out this video! Great job, so much information, and the outtakes were worth a million bucks!!
We are just starting out on foamsmithing and were curious about this. We went out just today and got Plastidip and I think it's a good choice for the things we're making for Halloween. Thanks for the information! -Casey
That tiny bottle of Urecoat is just too precious.
Thank you for making this video though, it is super helpful!
On solid props i have tried waterwashable UV resin. I like the hard surface, the sandability and the fast and total control over the curing process.
finaly! thanks so much. i watched so many of your videos and was like "wait what? why is he useing x/y to seal it, the last time he was useing y/x"
great video and sooo helpful! :)
*Saves to a playlist, copies URL into a notebook so he will never lose it.*
Doctor Discord *Loses notebook*
RIGHT, ty for reminding me :D
Finally a FULL description with a ton of examples
Thank you very much for this video, I'm barely starting on the EVA prop making world and this was very educational!
Hey guys! I have a tendency to do very light coats of Plastidip, leaving a bumpy finish, and I just wanted to note that while it sands horribly, I've had a lot of success smoothing the texture using VM&P Naphtha (respirator required!) and a gloved finger.
Just for reference, it's not super uncommon to be allergic to neoprene. Less so than latex (although I'm allergic to both because ...special?), but it's something to watch out for, especially if you're doing a commission for someone you don't know or something. If someone has issues with contact cements like Barge (which are neoprene based), it's likely that neoprene will also irritate.
Good to know!
Bill I just discovered the best way ever to seal a paint job but you know more than me so I want to share it. It's called Minwax indoor/outdoor Helmsman Spar Urethene. It comes in both spray and brush on, and different finishes. It's flexible and VERY durable, and probably could be used to seal foam too but I haven't tried it. It is similar to floor wax (but way better.)
I started out using school glue thinned with water, progressed to Plastidip, and now go back and forth between wood glue for rigid pieces i know won't flex, plastidip for parts that need a bit of flex to them, and fabric paint medium mixed with wood glue with something in between.
No one perfect primer works for everything, so showing all the pros and cons of each is so helpful. Thank you!
Still screw up often, but hey that's how you learn...melted pink insulation foam board last week b/c I used contact cement. Should have googled first!
I Was working in my fallout power armour and I couldn't find a video on how to seal it. Until you posted this
So Thank you so much (:
These kinds of videos are why the internet should have been invented! Yes, this video is that important. Well, maybe not, but it is very useful. Thanks for your time and effort.
Something to note about PVA glues, the wood glue especially but also mod podge will yellow over time. This is more of an issue if it's a top coat but it can discolor light and white paints painted over top. This is only an issue long term but if it's something you're going to display or use for years use archival bookbinding PVA instead. It won't discolor and it's a bit more flexible but it does cost a lot more and it's not water resistant like TiteBond 3.
This is quite possibly the best video on you tube EVER!!! Between you guys and evil Ted I'm trying to make my son some mccree armour from overwatch. The tips in this video should be gold plated and hung on the wall! It's great. Thanks.
Punished Props yes please. Any help with finishing, sealing and painting would be awesome. Best combos, recommendations and just helpful stuff.
I've been running my own experiments and this video is super helpful. There are a few methods here that I've never seen before.
guys you are unbelievable, I am not watching video to learn only but I I've also fun. Thanks a lot from Europe..
Thank you for everything you do! I bought both your books and I'm in the process of converting my garage into a prop/costume workshop.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! For doing the work, for assuming the expense of testing, for sharing what you've learned.
This video is great! Sealing foam is a huge problem for me. Now I know how to seal foam with different kind of products, and know the pros and cons. Thank you so much!!!
That you so much for including products people with a latex allergy can use for props. It has been a real search to find something that works as good as latex, but not actually have latex in it. :)
No problem! Happy to help!
I LOOOOOVE this video so much! I really like the chart you made, too! Terrific idea and I appreciate all the work you and Brit put in for this video!
Excellent video. This is the best side by side comparison of products I've seen so far, and you answered several questions I had involving failures I've had with various products. Props to you! No pun intended. ;)
Timing for this is perfect. I'm in a time crunch for my con next week and this helped out a lot!
I'm relatively new to all of this stuff and I've used mostly PVA glue. this video was very helpful thanks!
I'm gonna guess this video will continue to bring in views for a long time, great job!
Holy crap! Thank you for doing all this experimentation so the rest of us don’t have to
You are most welcome!
Try adhesion promoter (comes in a regular, paint-type spray can) before spraying your Krylon. Paint sticks great on plastic, rubber, wood... Any otherwise hard to paint surface.
For anyone interested... There are actually "Ts" in the word "button." Somehow, they got lost in the last generation change. lol
Great video, guys. This one took a lot of effort and time.
Thanks for the tip!
Great video as usual!
For painting the urecoat, and urethane rubbers in general, check out Bulldog Adhesion Promoter.
Lay down a good coat of it and then paint with your preferred paints within the time specified on the can. Nothing really bonds to urethane rubber but the adhesion promoter really helps!
I have been experimenting with UreCoat. I actually DYED the urethane with acrylic Jacquard brand paint!! Also for weathering, the top coat paint seems to adhere if you rub down the urethane with some acetone to "dry out" the oils that are in the urethane rubber, and scuffs it up.
That's wicked cool! Thank you for sharing--we'll have to try that out. We did a UreCoat test with green and white opaque pigments and cast magic pearl powders mixed together. The result looks a bit like the Skyrim glass armor. So much to test!
Punished Props excited to see the results! Also I will be at the Pizza and Prop Makers dinner at DragonCon! I'm really hoping that my Urecoat-ed armor will turn out how i envision it!! Much to discuss.
This realy helps me a lot picking the right product for my ( in "Blueprint State") Armor. Many thx to both of you.
Thanks guys!!! now I'm gonna end up spending even MORE money with smooth-on than I was originally planning. "the more you know"....the lighter your wallet gets lol. great video though. also I have been using rustoleum filler primer and then plasti-dip for props that don't need to bend and have gotten some great finishes. super smooth with enough sanding of course
Thank you so much for running these tests it Really helps ! Saves so much time you know what prop peeps need and supply every time !
Thanks for this video. I've been looking for a comprehensive look at this issue for a while and you guys hit the nail on the head. I'll definitely be picking up that material sheet from your website that you talked about. Thanks again.
Incredible reference video for foam crafting.
Evil Ted said it all below.
Great video you guys!
I think you covered everything very comprehensively... Looks like it would have taken a long time to go through all the testing.
I've been looking for different ways to seal foam for my props and this video is perfect 😉 Thanks so much!
funnily enough I had gotten your books as christmas presents and I had found this video looking into more detail on sealing. I hadn't even realized that you were the same people until I saw the mass effect armor and I was like wait a minute...
HA! Awesome. Thanks and enjoy the books! =D
For things that I've covered with black Worbla I really like filler automotive primer. It sands beautifully!
What a fantastic guide! Thank you so very much in testing the many options for sealing Foam!
Thanks! I'll have to try neoprene. I'm extremely allergic to latex. Which stinks!
Very Informative! I've been using Weldwood Contact Cement (green quart) followed by Plasti-Dip
What an awesome video!!! I will be checking out a bunch of these things when I get around to making armor for an old D&D character. This will make things so much easier for me. Thank you
you guys have definitely hit all the areas that I've been looking for on this subject is was just thinking this the other day so I could work on my Mandalorian rifle thank you bill and brit👍👍👍
So far I've found that Flexbond is my favourite to use to seal foam before priming/painting:) It's a nice consistency (I add a tiny it of water to it), 2 - 3 layers and it's good to go (dries really fast too). I like that the foam is still very flexible (hence the name), and doesn't crack when dried.
I'm relatively new to painting props, but I use an acrylic "binder" as undercoat before I start painting.
Then I mix my paint with the binder.
I have yet to experiment with finishing coats but I think I'll use some Mod Podge.
Since I'm on a pretty extreme budget, I generally use regular school glue, it acts just like Mod Podge but takes about six layers to be properly paintable
Great tip! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you guys!! This is an rediculusy good guide! And Im at this stage of my costume making right now so the timeing couldnt be better!!!
Awesome and informative video :)
I haven't used a wide range of materials to seal but my favourite for foam is PVA and then plasti-dip and for worbla its gesso and then mod podge :)
What a great video guys, very well done. Also, props to the Evil Ted shirt Brit!
OMG thank you so much for this, my education on UA-cam is complete
You're most welcome!
When you started flexing that battle axe around I was screaming because I vastly underestimated the flexibility of that finish.
i.imgur.com/F3TPFLa.gif
So so useful! Thanks for this video guys, really helped me decide on what to use to finish my shield project
I work at a Michael’s art store and would like to add a way you can get the material(s) you need. Use our online store and check to see if the store near you carries your item. Before going in though call up to the Michael’s store and ask them to check their stock before coming up there. There should be an item number on the products page of the Michael’s website. Give the person on the phone and wait for someone to bring it up and they should (depending on what it is) be able to put it on hold for you.
If they do not have the item a great option is to do an in-store pickup. By doing this, you pay online and they ship your item(s) to the store of your choosing. And the best part is that by doing an in-store pickup you don’t have to pay shipping.
Great tip, thanks for sharing! =D
Excellent Breakdown! Really great work. Having used flexbond, PVA, Plasti-dip, Flexidip, Epsilon, and Angelus, I can verify your results. Many of your foam props have weathered, aged, or distressed looks to them, what would you recommend for a prop you want to look shiny and new?
I didn't know mod podge could be sanded! I gotta try this out!! Thank you.
MY HEROES!!! You saved me.
Happy to help!!
YOU ARE AN ABSOLUTE LIFE SAVER GOD BLESS THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO
You're so very welcome! We're so glad you found it helpful!
"Hand-cannon" is the street term for revolvers. I know you all play video games, but Britt is a verified lethal gangster.
I just saw on kamuicosplay that you can use a heatgun to smooth out crinkles in plasti or flexi dip coated foam. Considering how fast it is to do that, you may want to try comparing them and possibly switch away from the latex.
Interesting!
Can someone stop me watching every damn video on this playlist? I need sleep :D
I was rewatching the video and got a kick out of noticing the take difference between Bill and Brit, because you can see them alternating how is in front and who is back 😃
Thanks for looking out for those of us with latex allergies.
Yeah, setting this one aside. Fortunately my starting project is just a found parts Portal gun for a 12-year-old who will likely be easily impressed, so my supply of glues and spray paints will do. Wood or spray glue and high gloss Rustoleum 2x paint+primer that works on plastic are my picks, once I heat seal the pieces. I'm testing the combination already on a scrap. But it's good to know what's most durable for armor. It's something we've talked about doing for years, making one kind of armor or another, and if I ever do I want it wrinkle free.
Thanks for making this awesome Video and useful tutorial~
I am propmakers from indonesia, and in here we always use Aqua prof or Roof Tile sealer, maybe you can try it~
Thank you very much~
Bill & Britt I love you guys
Awe, thank you! =)
This helps a lot. Although i don't know if I can complete a full Dead Space Engineer suit within a month.
I usually use car filling paste that stuff is super cheap if you have a lot of projects, also it bonds really well to foam and paint and when it cracks its practically invisible and doesent wrincle and it can be repaired as new yith the same material quite easely however it needs a lot of sanding, its not really flexible, adds some weight and it is not heat friendly you cant just let your pieces outside on the sun all day, here in my country I use like 2 dollars car paste worth for covering a girls armor with helmet included so for me is a good choice for prop making
i really like the translucent look you get from the eurethane. what if you were to coat the foam and paint it with a metallic silver first, and then put a tinted eurethane over it?
This was excellent, and hugely helpful.
been watching your videos for awhile now, this video convinced me I have to fallow your works and sub. Thank you for this test run on all the ways to seal foam. Informative videos like this is what the community needs. Would be cool to see you guys @ SciFi On The Rock
+Barrie Hall Thanks for sticking around. =)
:D my pleasure.
Love the rigour. I'm just about to start on foam armour, and trying to work out if plastidip is worth the $40 per can it costs here.
a hairdryer will help in removing brush strokes and bubbles while coating is wet
I have used regular white glue thinned with warm water but the parts were static and not subject to abuse. Cheaper than wood glue though.....
Amazing guide Bill and Brit! Thank you so much! Also, I love your books!!
Thanks a lot, you answered many questions that I wasn't able to ask xD
Great video, very informative, thanks Bill,Brittany 🙂
Thanks so much!! You guys have read my mind - as I was pondering how to seal and pain my recently completed (first) shield :o)
when brushing on clear coats in woodshop we were told to use only foam brushes to avoid streaks and brush marks
That's a good idea.
Wow! Whole lotta info in one video- thanks!
interesting to watch. tho, what i'm looking forward to design i think i most likely would be wearing resin plastic parts instead of foam. think something on the lines of Daft Punk but, more than just the helmet and hands.
u guys r great I was wondering what to use now I know how much appreciated thank you
This is an amazing video. Super informative!
Bill thanks for this guide
Damn I just finished sealing my chest armour too fml I was cheap and used wood glue...
Wow thanks for replying! The timing of this video was excellent for me haha. It's only a problem for the armor I made for my dog since it doesn't bend very well, but it still looks pretty good for my first foam build 👍🏼
What is a glue that can seal eva foam and styrofoam together? Does gorilla glue work?
Wow, this is massive. Thanks
Fantastic job on this one! Thanks for this!!
Hi! I just found your channel. I love your instructional videos. I like the idea of using the critter instead of brushing all of my coats. Can you recommend a small "hobby grade" compressor that would meet the needs of the critter when working on something like a set of armor? Keep the videos coming!
Really great and helpful info, Have you ever worked with Bondo Fiberglass on EVA foam, That is currently what I am looking into. The only think I know is that is you dont have a power sander, you will not get a smooth finish, But I have never really worked with it.