It looks like this has been mentioned in the comments already but I just want to clarify for anyone reading: the 'valve' on the yellow line he says he opens around 5:10 IS NOT a valve, it is a cap which simply covers a 'schrader valve'. When opening the red or blue valve, you are always connecting the yellow line to whatever side you opened! The cap on the yellow line does nothing but protect the schrader valve, just like a cap on your tire.
Everybody calls them valves. You crank these valves closed ( while turning them holding them in their hand ) One video I watched guy kept saying different things for what something was. Like he was emptying a can of refrigerant into a car and said “ when you get all the moisture into the system “ I surely hope you’re not putting moisture in the system.
The ends of those hoses are like a tire cap that has a screw in the end so you can push the schrader valve under the cap. The one end of the yellow hose has a special end that pushes on a schrader valve to open it as it is connected like a tire inflator or tire gauge.
@@michaelszczys8316 think of how a shrader valve works. it seals under pressure. and on the manifold, the yellow hose does not have a valve. that is a shrader. that shrader is to purge the hose when charging the system. my manifold set had 4 valves. 3 on the manifold and one on the high and low pressure ends.
As a Reefer Tech. I work on both automotive type systems as well as reefer trailers. I will say that not everything was done correctly in this video. Not going to point it out, others have already. I just give you props for going out and getting most of the tools needed. You are trying to do it the correct way, that is great. You are using a filter on your recovery machine. I can't tell you how many times I have seen a universe and/or a type 2 certified tech not use one. Hell I've done it before out of laziness. Tring to do something the correct way, gos a long way in my book.
just to help out those watching........most automotive applications are measured in grams or ounces. Part of the reason these machines are so much cheaper is because the really expensive ones are automated and all the measuring is done for you. All you have to do is dial up the amount to be loaded in and hit start. Evac is the same....it measures what comes out.The machine handles the rest. Makes it really easy to detect proper levels. But this is pretty handy for those DIY who want to do it the responsible way.
Looks like he already did that procedure before adding the 22 lbs of refrigerant he kept mentioning. I always wondered if I needed refrigerant in the bottle prior doing these types of procedures and from what I recall, that is the case but then what if I recover (bad) refrigerant from a car, then all my refrigerant in the tank is contaminated lol
Cay Rome There is nothing great about the video there was so much miss information wrong procedures this video should be taken down and remade properly .
Great video, I got my system completed but slightly expensive about half price of yours more. Went with Harbor Freight Manifold Gauges, Inficon Dual Vortex Recovery Machine which is $835.00, same recovery tank as yours, I have a VivoHome Scale for about $100.00 and also have a vacuum pump form before from Harbor Freight. this is to work only in one car but not worries, my brother is actually a HVAC Tech so he can use them after and he is very happy with the Inficon recovery machine
Thank you for the information. I have looked at different videos for the last hour and a half. They all claimed that they would show the process from beginning to end. I could not find anyone doing what you did. I am a backyard mechanic and I have all the important tools to work on just about anything including air conditioning. Matter of fact I have three different set of gauges. I have one for r12 and two for r134. I have a vacuum pump I just don't have the recovery equipment. I wanted to see exactly what I needed. Your video showed me exactly what I need. And you went ahead and answered my question about reusing the freon that you recovered. Again thank you for the great information.
I was doing the something (looking), when u add the price of freon after three Engine swaps.The system is only 400 bucks total. I’m on Engine number two ( i have 4 Teen .. )for some fun reason, people forget to check there oil and I get a good deal, 4000 car for 500 all day.(the first car was free).the prices went up a little bit on Amazon, Thanks
Took my car to AAA Auto Repair Center on Tully Rd in San Jose to repair the air conditioning. They told me that the compressor was bad (which I had already figured out since it had a frozen clutch..couldn't push it in by hand while engine was off). I know compressors cost about $300 but they were going to charge me over $1500 to replace it. Then, later, they called me and said they would have to also replace the receiver drier and that would cost another $400 or so. So, after I went back to pick up the car, I looked under the hood and saw a nice shiny new compressor but couldn't see the receiver drier until I got home. Turns out that the receiver drier is like welded to the side of the condenser and has a plug on the bottom that needs to be removed in order to insert a cloth-like cylindrical shaped tampon-looking "drier" that takes moisture out of the system. That's all they did...and they charged me over $1900. The drier "tampon" can be bought at auto stores for from $15 to $35. And the compressor can be bought for about $300. My car is a 2014 Hyundai Tucson. Once you take off the splash panel under the engine of the car and look up at the bottom of the "condenser", on the driver's side of the vehicle, you can see and access the "receiver drier" plug to remove an then to insert the "tampon". I couldn't drain the coolant into a collector before removing those parts so I had to have all this work done by "professionals". Funny, not, how the government will fine you big bucks if you let the coolant escape which helps contribute to global warming but they have no problem sabotaging gas pipelines like the Nordstream pipeline which belched tons of gas into the atmosphere for many days! It's no wonder we are having high, record, temperatures. Wars don't help either. Same thing happened after WWI and WWII..record high temperatures worldwide! Thanks a lot Putin...you son of a b...!!! Putin needs a "b" to the head!!!
If you’re not ac certified you should not be doing ac work. You can be reported to the epa and get a hefty fine. There’s a reason it cost so much. You’re paying for what they know. Not what they can do
Thanks for at least showing an evac machine. Yours is the first video on youtube in which I saw the capture evac pump Most youtube "DIYer A/C recharge/repair" videos TELL you to get someone to evac your system for you. (Or kinda, sorta, imply you could vent it) Then most videos jump to using a vacuum pump, getting a vacuum and adding freon, oil, and dye. Still reviewing the last section of video.
Man came revisiting your video because I could not find those adapters anywhere looked for days for it, finally seen here they are at NAPA, LOL, just bought one adapter for $20.00 if I get it at NAPA I will be returning it. I only need one!
You should take this video down and re do it after reading the comments to many novice mistakes and misinformation be responsible and do the right thing man.
If you only got out roughly 13 ounces, isn’t that only about half of what most vehicle AC systems hold? I'm pretty sure most hold 28-32 ounces. And shouldn't you put a vaccum on the recovery tank first. I've read elsewhere that it's needed so the vacuum pulls out the refrigerant. Seems like you did this wrong!
When purging the hose shouldn't you leave the gas pressure on to it. Otherwise when you twist open the connection the gas could come out to the point that air can go back in.
I’ve never messed with AC systems before. I’ve been studying and learning how to do it for the past month, before I buy all the equipment and start working on a couple cars I have. So many things here are not the way to do it. I would mention them but it looks like the professionals already beat me to it. 😂
This was gonna be my comment to lol pretty much word for word. We must be learning something to be able to spot errors in a process already. Their sure were a bunch lol
The "knob" at the middle of the manifold gauge (over the yellow hose) is not a knob. It is a cap for the schrader valve. Turing it all the way ccw will remove the cap but have no effect upon the schrader valve. This manifold gauge has a schrader valve next to the yellow hose. Most manifold gauges do not. The purpose it to enable purgring the yellow hose by pressing down on the schrader valve button, rather than untwisting the yellow hose at it connection at the gauge set.
When you said -"mabe this thing is not losened up enough..." And screwed the cap that covers steamvalve in the center of the gauges. I wondered what does that change if you didnt completely unscrew it and didnt press that stem valve? Does this guy really know what he is doing? Im not a pro at this but just using abit of commonbsense I would vacuum my recovery tank as well as the machine with all hoses. Before starting. And would use that same stemvalve under that cap to release the air from hoses connected to the car.
sir, i have two questions. Does moisture /air (in the system) come along with gas into the recovery tank? Does compressor oil come along with gas? if yes, how do you manage?
Thanks for posting this video. I’m replacing a compressor tomorrow at work. It’s my first time using my recovery machine had it for a few months. Thanks again, I can sleep now 👍
I have a MAC EPA 609 License for performing Automobile Refrigerant Services because there are rules and regulations for performing this type of service. I came across this video while researching for a place to empty my 30LB Recovery Tank. The EPA need to arrest this guy and UA-cam need to pull this video.
Don't forget also, if you have pulled a vacuum on the system, the schrader valves will only hold positive pressure. As soon as you remove the service port connectors, your system may suck moisture in. Dry welding gas could be purged in to bring up to atmospheric pressure if you don't have nitrogen to hand.
why did you not let the machine run for an hour or so to pull a full vacuum in the system and to be sure all of the vapers are evacuated? Also, a bathroom scale is not sensitive enough to measure accurately what R134a was actually removed.
I'm not an expert, that's why I'm looking you tube. This confirms to me that this is probably not the place to look,,, I saw many mistakes and I know little. Love the bit when he is taking R134a out and calling it Freon. I have charged fridges and cars but want to drain responsibly rather than venting to air (I assume you have to with R134a). Was waiting for the brass cap to fall off in his hands when opening the vac line!
Nice video.. question.. how to recharge the system.. this machine suck all the oil? If it does how to fill it back? Should I connect the high side. When recharge the system?
Excellent practical demo. Question please. Is the recovered refrigerant good to be reused or needs to go for treatment. Is it clean like what the expensive refrigerant recovery machines do. Is not it having the oil and other dirt may be with it. Thank you
That was my question. It makes sense to me that you would have to that first. Also, how else would you know that all contaminants were removed from the recovery tank?
Alluring Smile Makeovers By Alexander Vasserman DDS., PC yes exactly you need to vacuum out the tank. There was a lot of bad information in this video people who don’t know I don’t know this video is really full of miss information that is not correct in poor procedures
i'm reading it is a big no no to put back the refrigerant as the machine is not built for recycling the freon. Those machines are like $4k. I'd like to see how you put it back if that is possible.
If you pull a vacuum on the system, the vacuum will automatically suck the refrigerant in & if you charge it while it’s running so will the compressor.
@@johnbenedetto3096 i think he meant letting the nitro that some new tanks come filled with. not evacuating the system first and then the freon which would not make sense
That center cap is just a cap and you can purge the line with it, which should have been done. The refrigerant is green from the dye used to detect leaks. This video has quite a few things wrong and shouldn’t be used if you’re looking for a how to.
Hmmmm... But before you even think of reclaiming any refrigerant from and system you must determine what refrigerant is actually in the system. For example, if the A/C label says the A/C to be used is R134a... that does not mean that is the correct refrigerant in the system. I have seen systems with explosive PROPANE in them! So an Electronic Refrigerant Identifier is required to verify it is in fact R134a. If it is anything other than that, it is illegal to re-claim that refrigerant from the vehicle and you must stop now. The recovery cylinder weighs 16 pounds empty. (But is it under vacuum? Maybe, maybe not!). It must be fully evacuated first with a good two-stage vacuum pump like a Robinair 15600 6CFM before it is used to reclaim any refrigerant from the vehicle. This vacuum pump will pull down to 15 microns vacuum ONLY IF you have taken very good care of it and changed the specified oil in the pump every time you used it. If you did not take care of the pump oil properly even one time, it will not pull the 15 microns ever again. The vacuum pump has now been ruined. No sense in troubleshooting an A/C system if your pump is damaged. To start with you will need an Electronic Thermister Analog (Not Digital) Vacuum gauge, just to check the vacuum capability of your pump. That is the ONLY way you can be sure that your vacuum pump will achieve the maximum vacuum needed to have minimum humidity in the system after evacuation. A simple manifold set will not even come close to this very important electronic analog gauge. If the recovery tank has air (humidity) in it, it will contaminate the refrigerant and cannot be re-used in any system. If you do try that, you will destroy ALL of the A/C components in the vehicle because hydrofluoric acid will be formed when the humid air is combined with the refrigerant. Further, PAG oil is hydroscopic and is like a sponge for holding moisture and creating that acid. That means every component made from aluminum plus the compressor has to be replaced and huge money! If you reclaim from multiple DIFFERENT vehicles into the re-claim tank it is illegal to re-use any of that refrigerant in any A/C system with an EPA penalty of $10,000 and 10 years of Federal imprisonment if you are caught. And that is each occurrence! The EPA does not play games on this. As of 2018 Federal Law require an EPA Certification 608 or 609 of all technicians to purchasing over two pounds of refrigerant of any type. Charging with a small can is a very inaccurate way because many times you cannot know what the actual weight of the refrigerant is dispensed and the right WEIGHT of charge is critical for proper and safe operation of the A/C. Hope this helps! Mike -- ASE Master Technician Automobile and ASE Master Technician Medium/Heavy Truck. EPA Certification 608, 609 & Universal Licenses. AOS Degree Automobile, Diesel, & Industrial Technology earned at Universal Technical Institute in Phoenix, AZ
Not all vehicle hold the same amount of 134A. I have a 1998 Ford Explorer and it takes 30 oz of 234A. Check your manufacturer data on what amount your vehicle takes. Also ambient temperature males a difference on lo side and high side pressure. Just Google for a chart. The colder it is the less the readings will be on your gauges you could damage your compressor if you over fill it or other problem. Also change out the valve inside the low and hight sides it avoids leaks to change them out if they have been in there a long time. They are cheap so replace them. You will need a valve tool to accomplish this removal and installation of new valve stem. You also need to make sure your using 1 tank for 1 type of Freon. If it's an older vehicle it will have R12 R 134A or R1234YF. You can not put them all together. You need separate recovery tanks. My Advice is go get training. You can harm yourself greatly if you do not know what you're doing.
1990 was the first year R134a was first test run only one model for a few manufactures. You did not use a refrigerant analyzer to test the purity of the refrigerant this is mandatory by law from the EPA I mean California bureau of auto repair as of 2018. Any one doing refrigerant work should always test. You absolutely do not know what you are doing and should not be telling people how to damage their cars or customers cars. You never start your recovery from the high side line because you remove too much oil with liquid refrigerant, way more then you should or by recovering the proper way. That little filter inline is just to protect the recovery machine thats all. That little filter dose not remove the moisture it is saturated the first time it is open to the atmosphere. You do not just go bleeding off refrigerant to the atmosphere. if you vacuumed out you machine and hoses you do not get air in it in the first place. Then you test with you refrigerant analyzer that is the ONLY way you know. There is a lot of commentated refrigerant in cars because of IDIOTS who recover refrigerant from one bad car mix it with all the refrigerant then put it in all the other car like a STD. On top of that the refrigerant recovered by this method is completely moisture saturated. Unsuitable to be put back into any car. Moisture + refrigerant = hydrofloric acid, it brakes down the oil, eats at the metal parts from the inside out and on electric motor winding it brakes down the insulation on the wires over time. Also you must recover down to at least 15" or more vacuum wait 15 min and if vacuum falls below 15" vacuum turn on the recovery unit again and wait it should not fall below 15" vacuum then you know you have removed the refrigerant. And it is also mandated by EPA regulations ans proper practices. This video gets the UA-cam Homer Simpson award. Congratulation.
JMR 626 what is the Fed requires ? what state or country are you from. ? There are different requirements in different states in the United States. Canada has their own rules and Europe has completely different rules to. As for training local vocational schools city colleges. Are used to be the kind of training you would get being in high school but they got rid of all of our good training in this country now kids leave high school knowing nothing of the trades.
JMR 626 and many of you may have not noticed but this guy making this video definitely doesn’t have enough experience especially with this equipment he just bought it it’s all virgin he doesn’t know how to use it.
That is so true, But teens are so Unruly and Dangerous, some school boards shut down or tone back there shops (in the 90' we Blew-up a old soda machine in the welding shop with a bag of spray cans, not on purpose.. Wow what a fire ball) I took wood shop in med school, welding, auto, Drafting , AV/ electronics, DJ yes DJ with two turn tables Video Production and Computer Lab, All this before my Sr. yr also JROTC,
I asked the same question. Because recoverd refrigerant have the oil and may be some dirt, does this machine recycle the refrigerant for reuse. I saw similar small machine have outlet for oil dispense called Mastercool brand
From reading online no you cannot recharge the system from the recovery tank. It could have contaminants. You have to take it to a recycle place and they will buy and recycle your refrigerant.
No, the yellow line is the red & blue lines combined & go straight to the recovery tank via the machine. The best place to purge air on this setup is right before it enters the tank.
Yeah that screw at the top of yellow hose in between the gauges is not a valve, its an additional outlet with a cap. By unscrewing it you just made a leak in the system and potential source for air contamination in refrigerant youre extracting.. it is pretty clear you dont know what youre doing, you need to read the procedure several times so you dont seem too confused when looking at gauges and valves/
Glad you posted a video about those portable recovery machines I’ve seen. I was curious why some are 4 to 5k and then some are $500, This pretty much answers that.Now it looks like it’s going to be phased out anyway with a r1234yf and a $5k machine wouldn’t work on that and you’d have to buy a different machine,but I’m no professional. I just remember when you could buy r12 and then it was phased out and a 30# can was $700, then wished I’d have gotten some before so I could have cold ac again.
Im an hvac tech. And this set up would work for me since I have all these tools. The only thing Im missing is what the automotive recover machines have: a way to recover the Oil it gets from the refrigerant recovered. Thanks
THE OILS NEED TO BE MISCIBLE WITH REFRIGERANTS IN ORDER FOR IT TO LUBRICATE THE COMPRESSOR. THAT MEANS ITS A HOMOGENEOUS MIXTURE. So technically it is apart of the refrigerant. So inadvertently you will be removing oils aswell. Rule of thumb: the slower the recovery the less oils will be removed. The faster the recovery the more oils will be removed.
UA-cam just kills me. If it weren't for real mechanics everybody would be so screwed. I actually watched a guy make a video on how to grease your brake pads and the guy was really serious. I really wanted to see the test drive. Instead of greasing the caliper sliders he greased the whole pads.
If you have had a slow leak, but system still has refrigerant and you do the recovery, how do you know how much oil is in the system. The RG3 and other portable recovery machines do not separate out the oil so it can be measured. I contacted Robinair, and they said the RG3 & RG6 would not get all of the oil out of the system. The under the hood label specifies the refrigerant weight, and the number of ounces of oil. I have not been able to see an answer to this, or see it addressed anywhere. Too much or too little oil would be a problem. Thanks.
That's a very good point. I will add: that it would tend to leak the gas first, as it's not a liquid. And a significant amount of oil would likely remain in the lower ends of the system. I found a lot myself on a couple of recent disassembles of a system after recovering the gas. Yes, it would be nice to know exactly how much oil to gas ratio is in the system. There should be some sort of sample analysis gauge or something to do that with. Guess you just have to kind of guess work it.
Yeah, if you want oil separation in a portable recovery machine, I'd look at Mastercool portables like the 69110 or 69350. If you already own a recovery machine and would like to add oil extraction capability, you can add it to your existing system using an oil separator, such as the CPC CRXOS1. I'd recommend combining it with an inline receiver/drier filter for added protection. Or you can just go with the RecoveryMate 69500 from Mastercool. The entire oil separation and filtration system is pre-made for you and contained in a plastic box, even comes with the hoses to connect it to your current recovery machine. Comes with gauges, receiver/drier filter, oil separator, sight glass and hoses. This would probably cost about as much as a used Mastercool 69110 though. Hope this helps!
I have a 2005 HONDA CRV LX that is in a no Crank no start situation ( it has a kickers AC in it ) AND I m thinking of PARTING IT OUT : DOES THIS PROCEDURE WORK IF THE HONDA WONT EVEN CRANK ??????
Depends, if you leave same compressor it's ok, but if you put in a new compressor it already comes with oil inside it, so you can't put it back in with the old oil in the refrigerant.
DO NOT FOLLOW THIS VIDEO. THIS CAN BE REALLY DANGEROUS WHEN DONE IMPROPERLY. WHEN A GUY TURNS A DUST CAP AND SAYS HE IS OPENING SOMETHING. DANGER. DANGER. DANGER!
Thanks I had to replace my ac condenser/ transmission cooler it’s one pice witch is stupid. The ac is fine the trans cooler was leaking so I had take out the Freon discontent the lines and put the new cooler in and put the lines back and re change it
The machine is used to recover the refrigerant. No other way to do it. You just just don't fill your system with a bottle because it'll over fill your system and cause leaks.
Was very difficult to hear voice over the loud sound of the recovery machine. Overall even with headphones and watch listening twice I was able to get it still with difficulty. Question... Does this machine offer PURGE so that I would be able to clear all residue of refrigerant from the RG3 to prevent corrosion and be able to use the machine with multiple refrigerants?
I'm glad you were able to glean some useful information. The RG3 is a universal Refrigerant Recovery Machine - compatible with almost all types refrigerant. I don't recall if there is a special purge routine other than just air pressure. We only got it for R134a & maybe the newer R1234yf in Automobile systems.
Could be the date of manufacture or... "Refillable cylinders must be retested and recertified every five years, and the test date must be stamped on the cylinder shoulder."
I can tell you really don't know what you are doing and should not be trying to teach on A/C systems. There is so much more to it than what you explained. You have my respect for taking on this project. A/C's are really not for the DIY. And time to recharge if you use a scales like Matt said and if you get it right your safe . Put to recharge you have to take into account the temperature and humidity because a hot day your pressure will be higher, you can really do some damage if you over charge. Take it to the pro. Good luck with you project.
Bro, I’m an A/C tech, as long as you do this in a shop of some kind where your temperatures don’t rise and fluctuate much you are good. No shop takes temperature and humidity into account, trust me, unless you take it to like a Ferrari/Lamborghini dealer maybe… he had a few things he could’ve done better, but none enough to damage your system.
Sure, he’s an amateur, but the reason this has so many views is that DIYers are tired of being hosed by con men that pretend like basic A/C work is rocket science so they can gouge your wallet.
How can you tell if your car system is still holding refrigerant after your compressor, condenser and fan breaks. Alot of Debris got caught in my condenser, suffocating the air needing to cool it. In turn overloading 1 of 2 fans and the compressor. 07 Civic
Terminology is important too....Freon is R-12. Refrigerant is common. or just say R-134a. yes i seen quite a few boo-boos but that is covered in the following threads. Almost a perfect job.
600$ vs $25 for 2 lbs of 134a, i guess if youll keep using that machine. It looks like you got 5 or 6ft hoses, with that little purge you did i bet you still had air in the line. anyway good video, it was entertaining
My man, I appreciate what you're trying to do, but you're not qualified to be making 'how to videos'. The brass knob on the center port of the manifold is not a valve.
It looks like this has been mentioned in the comments already but I just want to clarify for anyone reading: the 'valve' on the yellow line he says he opens around 5:10 IS NOT a valve, it is a cap which simply covers a 'schrader valve'. When opening the red or blue valve, you are always connecting the yellow line to whatever side you opened! The cap on the yellow line does nothing but protect the schrader valve, just like a cap on your tire.
well as you pull a vacuum the schrader will actually let air in. the cap has a rubber seal in it.
Everybody calls them valves. You crank these valves closed ( while turning them holding them in their hand )
One video I watched guy kept saying different things for what something was. Like he was emptying a can of refrigerant into a car and said “ when you get all the moisture into the system “ I surely hope you’re not putting moisture in the system.
The ends of those hoses are like a tire cap that has a screw in the end so you can push the schrader valve under the cap.
The one end of the yellow hose has a special end that pushes on a schrader valve to open it as it is connected like a tire inflator or tire gauge.
@@michaelszczys8316 think of how a shrader valve works. it seals under pressure. and on the manifold, the yellow hose does not have a valve. that is a shrader. that shrader is to purge the hose when charging the system. my manifold set had 4 valves. 3 on the manifold and one on the high and low pressure ends.
Correct
As a Reefer Tech. I work on both automotive type systems as well as reefer trailers. I will say that not everything was done correctly in this video. Not going to point it out, others have already. I just give you props for going out and getting most of the tools needed. You are trying to do it the correct way, that is great. You are using a filter on your recovery machine. I can't tell you how many times I have seen a universe and/or a type 2 certified tech not use one. Hell I've done it before out of laziness. Tring to do something the correct way, gos a long way in my book.
That "middle valve" on the guages isn't a valve. It's the cap on the purge valve.
Goes*
Yep I agree!!!
What is a “reefer” tech?
Does the recovery machine used on HVAC air conditioners work on veheciles to
You can definitely trust this guy because he knows that
A. 16 lbs bottle that has 0.8oz more weight (16.8lbs) is 12.8oz of recovered refrigerant.
just to help out those watching........most automotive applications are measured in grams or ounces. Part of the reason these machines are so much cheaper is because the really expensive ones are automated and all the measuring is done for you. All you have to do is dial up the amount to be loaded in and hit start. Evac is the same....it measures what comes out.The machine handles the rest. Makes it really easy to detect proper levels. But this is pretty handy for those DIY who want to do it the responsible way.
My LOW side is above my HIGH side. I do believe the magic words are about pressure and not about height above the ground.
Was going to say the same thing and ideally wouldn't the vapor line be above the liquid 🤷
AFTER looking at the comments SORRY THIS VIDEO IS FINE...... TELLS PEOPLE THE BASIC INFO AND HOW TO GET THE JOB DONE. VIDEO WAS GOOD.........
Thanks!
You need to vacuum the storage tank before you try to use it.
Yup let out nitrogen & boil out the bottle👍
No need if there is already a refrigerant in it right?
Looks like he already did that procedure before adding the 22 lbs of refrigerant he kept mentioning. I always wondered if I needed refrigerant in the bottle prior doing these types of procedures and from what I recall, that is the case but then what if I recover (bad) refrigerant from a car, then all my refrigerant in the tank is contaminated lol
this was excellent. Idk why but this is like the only good video explaining the standard procedure . thanks
Thanks. After watching so many horrible videos on the procedure myself, I thought I could do a tiny bit better.
This is the first time you have ever touched any of this lol. But at least you watched a few videos first.
Great Video, appreciate the fact you let the camera run all the way through, thank you!
Cay Rome There is nothing great about the video there was so much miss information wrong procedures this video should be taken down and remade properly .
@@coldfinger459sub0 yeah but I'll still.give.him a like.and subscribe for the effort
Overall great video...spme mistakes but diy id say grwat bro..all these negative comments bro...forget em...
Great video, I got my system completed but slightly expensive about half price of yours more. Went with Harbor Freight Manifold Gauges, Inficon Dual Vortex Recovery Machine which is $835.00, same recovery tank as yours, I have a VivoHome Scale for about $100.00 and also have a vacuum pump form before from Harbor Freight. this is to work only in one car but not worries, my brother is actually a HVAC Tech so he can use them after and he is very happy with the Inficon recovery machine
Thanks, glad you liked it. Great to hear that there's other setups that work just as well. It would be nice if there was a cheaper option.
you didnt purge the lines between the ports and the gauges.now you have water in the recovery tank.
Thank you for the information. I have looked at different videos for the last hour and a half. They all claimed that they would show the process from beginning to end. I could not find anyone doing what you did. I am a backyard mechanic and I have all the important tools to work on just about anything including air conditioning. Matter of fact I have three different set of gauges. I have one for r12 and two for r134. I have a vacuum pump I just don't have the recovery equipment. I wanted to see exactly what I needed. Your video showed me exactly what I need. And you went ahead and answered my question about reusing the freon that you recovered. Again thank you for the great information.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. I appreciate the feedback.
I was doing the something (looking), when u add the price of freon after three Engine swaps.The system is only 400 bucks total. I’m on Engine number two ( i have 4 Teen .. )for some fun reason, people forget to check there oil and I get a good deal, 4000 car for 500 all day.(the first car was free).the prices went up a little bit on Amazon, Thanks
@@theevolvingworld hi if I dont want to use same freon where can I recycle it at.
Took my car to AAA Auto Repair Center on Tully Rd in San Jose to repair the air conditioning. They told me that the compressor was bad (which I had already figured out since it had a frozen clutch..couldn't push it in by hand while engine was off). I know compressors cost about $300 but they were going to charge me over $1500 to replace it. Then, later, they called me and said they would have to also replace the receiver drier and that would cost another $400 or so. So, after I went back to pick up the car, I looked under the hood and saw a nice shiny new compressor but couldn't see the receiver drier until I got home. Turns out that the receiver drier is like welded to the side of the condenser and has a plug on the bottom that needs to be removed in order to insert a cloth-like cylindrical shaped tampon-looking "drier" that takes moisture out of the system. That's all they did...and they charged me over $1900. The drier "tampon" can be bought at auto stores for from $15 to $35. And the compressor can be bought for about $300. My car is a 2014 Hyundai Tucson. Once you take off the splash panel under the engine of the car and look up at the bottom of the "condenser", on the driver's side of the vehicle, you can see and access the "receiver drier" plug to remove an then to insert the "tampon". I couldn't drain the coolant into a collector before removing those parts so I had to have all this work done by "professionals". Funny, not, how the government will fine you big bucks if you let the coolant escape which helps contribute to global warming but they have no problem sabotaging gas pipelines like the Nordstream pipeline which belched tons of gas into the atmosphere for many days! It's no wonder we are having high, record, temperatures. Wars don't help either. Same thing happened after WWI and WWII..record high temperatures worldwide! Thanks a lot Putin...you son of a b...!!! Putin needs a "b" to the head!!!
If you’re not ac certified you should not be doing ac work. You can be reported to the epa and get a hefty fine. There’s a reason it cost so much. You’re paying for what they know. Not what they can do
Thanks for at least showing an evac machine.
Yours is the first video on youtube in which I saw the capture evac pump
Most youtube "DIYer A/C recharge/repair" videos TELL you to get someone to evac your system for you. (Or kinda, sorta, imply you could vent it)
Then most videos jump to using a vacuum pump, getting a vacuum and adding freon, oil, and dye.
Still reviewing the last section of video.
Man came revisiting your video because I could not find those adapters anywhere looked for days for it, finally seen here they are at NAPA, LOL, just bought one adapter for $20.00 if I get it at NAPA I will be returning it. I only need one!
Wow this was a GREAT video. Thank you..............
You should take this video down and re do it after reading the comments to many novice mistakes and misinformation be responsible and do the right thing man.
If you only got out roughly 13 ounces, isn’t that only about half of what most vehicle AC systems hold? I'm pretty sure most hold 28-32 ounces. And shouldn't you put a vaccum on the recovery tank first. I've read elsewhere that it's needed so the vacuum pulls out the refrigerant. Seems like you did this wrong!
Yes. He need to do a vacuum on the tank before using
When purging the hose shouldn't you leave the gas pressure on to it. Otherwise when you twist open the connection the gas could come out to the point that air can go back in.
I’ve never messed with AC systems before. I’ve been studying and learning how to do it for the past month, before I buy all the equipment and start working on a couple cars I have. So many things here are not the way to do it. I would mention them but it looks like the professionals already beat me to it. 😂
This was gonna be my comment to lol pretty much word for word. We must be learning something to be able to spot errors in a process already. Their sure were a bunch lol
What mistakes are made in this video?
Just out of curiosity
@@sanfordclayton3860 Take your time and read through the comments.
The "knob" at the middle of the manifold gauge (over the yellow hose) is not a knob. It is a cap for the schrader valve. Turing it all the way ccw will remove the cap but have no effect upon the schrader valve. This manifold gauge has a schrader valve next to the yellow hose. Most manifold gauges do not. The purpose it to enable purgring the yellow hose by pressing down on the schrader valve button, rather than untwisting the yellow hose at it connection at the gauge set.
Overall decent video but I had a good laugh when he twisted that.
When you said -"mabe this thing is not losened up enough..." And screwed the cap that covers steamvalve in the center of the gauges. I wondered what does that change if you didnt completely unscrew it and didnt press that stem valve? Does this guy really know what he is doing? Im not a pro at this but just using abit of commonbsense I would vacuum my recovery tank as well as the machine with all hoses. Before starting. And would use that same stemvalve under that cap to release the air from hoses connected to the car.
sir, i have two questions. Does moisture /air (in the system) come along with gas into the recovery tank? Does compressor oil come along with gas? if yes, how do you manage?
Thanks for posting this video. I’m replacing a compressor tomorrow at work. It’s my first time using my recovery machine had it for a few months. Thanks again, I can sleep now 👍
Good video , but I believe the yellow line valve you where opening is not a shut off valve is a bleater valve so you don't add air in the system
I have a MAC EPA 609 License for performing Automobile Refrigerant Services because there are rules and regulations for performing this type of service. I came across this video while researching for a place to empty my 30LB Recovery Tank. The EPA need to arrest this guy and UA-cam need to pull this video.
@@rjeromej8149 where can I empty my refrigerant tank at ?
"Bleater" valve omfg 😂 God bless you
Don't forget also, if you have pulled a vacuum on the system, the schrader valves will only hold positive pressure. As soon as you remove the service port connectors, your system may suck moisture in. Dry welding gas could be purged in to bring up to atmospheric pressure if you don't have nitrogen to hand.
A vacuum is negative pressure.
why did you not let the machine run for an hour or so to pull a full vacuum in the system and to be sure all of the vapers are evacuated? Also, a bathroom scale is not sensitive enough to measure accurately what R134a was actually removed.
I have a Fiat 500 that this needs to be done so that gives me an idea on how to do it. Thanks for posting this video 🫡
I'm not an expert, that's why I'm looking you tube. This confirms to me that this is probably not the place to look,,, I saw many mistakes and I know little. Love the bit when he is taking R134a out and calling it Freon. I have charged fridges and cars but want to drain responsibly rather than venting to air (I assume you have to with R134a). Was waiting for the brass cap to fall off in his hands when opening the vac line!
134a is freon
Yeeah your def a diy guy. That third little knob on the gauge that you think is a knob is a Schrader valve for you to tap into.
Nice video.. question.. how to recharge the system.. this machine suck all the oil? If it does how to fill it back? Should I connect the high side. When recharge the system?
Excellent practical demo. Question please. Is the recovered refrigerant good to be reused or needs to go for treatment. Is it clean like what the expensive refrigerant recovery machines do. Is not it having the oil and other dirt may be with it. Thank you
The recovery machine has a built-in filter. Also, he had an external filter before it reached his machine. It should be good to use
Thanks for the info im definitely going to be buying this system.
don't you have to vacuum out the tank before doing this?
That was my question. It makes sense to me that you would have to that first. Also, how else would you know that all contaminants were removed from the recovery tank?
Alluring Smile Makeovers By Alexander Vasserman DDS., PC yes exactly you need to vacuum out the tank. There was a lot of bad information in this video people who don’t know I don’t know this video is really full of miss information that is not correct in poor procedures
Good catch. Thanks
I thought he was joking when he loosened the cap on the manifold, guess not
i'm reading it is a big no no to put back the refrigerant as the machine is not built for recycling the freon. Those machines are like $4k. I'd like to see how you put it back if that is possible.
If you pull a vacuum on the system, the vacuum will automatically suck the refrigerant in & if you charge it while it’s running so will the compressor.
I take it the recovery tank needs to have a vacuum prior to adding anything in? i.e. suck out the existing air/moisture?
no, recovery happens first, then you evacuate to remove air
@@johnbenedetto3096 i think he meant letting the nitro that some new tanks come filled with. not evacuating the system first and then the freon which would not make sense
That center cap is just a cap and you can purge the line with it, which should have been done. The refrigerant is green from the dye used to detect leaks. This video has quite a few things wrong and shouldn’t be used if you’re looking for a how to.
Wrong side for recovery should be on the red liquid line and you dinnt even purge .. as soon as you get moisture in the mix you asking for trouble
Hmmmm... But before you even think of reclaiming any refrigerant from and system you must determine what refrigerant is actually in the system. For example, if the A/C label says the A/C to be used is R134a... that does not mean that is the correct refrigerant in the system. I have seen systems with explosive PROPANE in them! So an Electronic Refrigerant Identifier is required to verify it is in fact R134a. If it is anything other than that, it is illegal to re-claim that refrigerant from the vehicle and you must stop now. The recovery cylinder weighs 16 pounds empty. (But is it under vacuum? Maybe, maybe not!). It must be fully evacuated first with a good two-stage vacuum pump like a Robinair 15600 6CFM before it is used to reclaim any refrigerant from the vehicle. This vacuum pump will pull down to 15 microns vacuum ONLY IF you have taken very good care of it and changed the specified oil in the pump every time you used it. If you did not take care of the pump oil properly even one time, it will not pull the 15 microns ever again. The vacuum pump has now been ruined. No sense in troubleshooting an A/C system if your pump is damaged. To start with you will need an Electronic Thermister Analog (Not Digital) Vacuum gauge, just to check the vacuum capability of your pump. That is the ONLY way you can be sure that your vacuum pump will achieve the maximum vacuum needed to have minimum humidity in the system after evacuation. A simple manifold set will not even come close to this very important electronic analog gauge. If the recovery tank has air (humidity) in it, it will contaminate the refrigerant and cannot be re-used in any system. If you do try that, you will destroy ALL of the A/C components in the vehicle because hydrofluoric acid will be formed when the humid air is combined with the refrigerant. Further, PAG oil is hydroscopic and is like a sponge for holding moisture and creating that acid. That means every component made from aluminum plus the compressor has to be replaced and huge money! If you reclaim from multiple DIFFERENT vehicles into the re-claim tank it is illegal to re-use any of that refrigerant in any A/C system with an EPA penalty of $10,000 and 10 years of Federal imprisonment if you are caught. And that is each occurrence! The EPA does not play games on this. As of 2018 Federal Law require an EPA Certification 608 or 609 of all technicians to purchasing over two pounds of refrigerant of any type. Charging with a small can is a very inaccurate way because many times you cannot know what the actual weight of the refrigerant is dispensed and the right WEIGHT of charge is critical for proper and safe operation of the A/C. Hope this helps! Mike -- ASE Master Technician Automobile and ASE Master Technician Medium/Heavy Truck. EPA Certification 608, 609 & Universal Licenses. AOS Degree Automobile, Diesel, & Industrial Technology earned at Universal Technical Institute in Phoenix, AZ
Great response. When are you going to make a video?
Did u copy and paste this response? 🤣
What is the difference between Recovery, Discharge and Evacuation on A/C system in a car? Thank you for the great film.
Not all vehicle hold the same amount of 134A. I have a 1998 Ford Explorer and it takes 30 oz of 234A. Check your manufacturer data on what amount your vehicle takes. Also ambient temperature males a difference on lo side and high side pressure. Just Google for a chart. The colder it is the less the readings will be on your gauges you could damage your compressor if you over fill it or other problem. Also change out the valve inside the low and hight sides it avoids leaks to change them out if they have been in there a long time. They are cheap so replace them. You will need a valve tool to accomplish this removal and installation of new valve stem.
You also need to make sure your using 1 tank for 1 type of Freon. If it's an older vehicle it will have R12 R 134A or R1234YF. You can not put them all together. You need separate recovery tanks.
My Advice is go get training. You can harm yourself greatly if you do not know what you're doing.
Arent you supposed to put a vacuum on the tank first before capturing?
1990 was the first year R134a was first test run only one model for a few manufactures. You did not use a refrigerant analyzer to test the purity of the refrigerant this is mandatory by law from the EPA I mean California bureau of auto repair as of 2018. Any one doing refrigerant work should always test. You absolutely do not know what you are doing and should not be telling people how to damage their cars or customers cars. You never start your recovery from the high side line because you remove too much oil with liquid refrigerant, way more then you should or by recovering the proper way. That little filter inline is just to protect the recovery machine thats all. That little filter dose not remove the moisture it is saturated the first time it is open to the atmosphere. You do not just go bleeding off refrigerant to the atmosphere. if you vacuumed out you machine and hoses you do not get air in it in the first place. Then you test with you refrigerant analyzer that is the ONLY way you know. There is a lot of commentated refrigerant in cars because of IDIOTS who recover refrigerant from one bad car mix it with all the refrigerant then put it in all the other car like a STD.
On top of that the refrigerant recovered by this method is completely moisture saturated. Unsuitable to be put back into any car. Moisture + refrigerant = hydrofloric acid, it brakes down the oil, eats at the metal parts from the inside out and on electric motor winding it brakes down the insulation on the wires over time.
Also you must recover down to at least 15" or more vacuum wait 15 min and if vacuum falls below 15" vacuum turn on the recovery unit again and wait it should not fall below 15" vacuum then you know you have removed the refrigerant. And it is also mandated by EPA regulations ans proper practices. This video gets the UA-cam Homer Simpson award. Congratulation.
any advice on training? I've done the fed req's but process and trouble shooting seems to be a 'reluctant' topic...
JMR 626 what is the Fed requires ? what state or country are you from. ? There are different requirements in different states in the United States. Canada has their own rules and Europe has completely different rules to. As for training local vocational schools city colleges. Are used to be the kind of training you would get being in high school but they got rid of all of our good training in this country now kids leave high school knowing nothing of the trades.
JMR 626 and many of you may have not noticed but this guy making this video definitely doesn’t have enough experience especially with this equipment he just bought it it’s all virgin he doesn’t know how to use it.
That is so true, But teens are so Unruly and Dangerous, some school boards shut down or tone back there shops (in the 90' we Blew-up a old soda machine in the welding shop with a bag of spray cans, not on purpose.. Wow what a fire ball) I took wood shop in med school, welding, auto, Drafting , AV/ electronics, DJ yes DJ with two turn tables Video Production and Computer Lab, All this before my Sr. yr also JROTC,
Yep !!!!!
"Refrigerant Analyzer"!!!!
The high side means high pressure, has nothing to do with where the valve is located under the hood....same with the low side.
Can you reuse the freon
What I mean is, can you recharge the system out of the recovery tank?
I asked the same question. Because recoverd refrigerant have the oil and may be some dirt, does this machine recycle the refrigerant for reuse. I saw similar small machine have outlet for oil dispense called Mastercool brand
From reading online no you cannot recharge the system from the recovery tank. It could have contaminants. You have to take it to a recycle place and they will buy and recycle your refrigerant.
How about to vacuum and recharge the A/C system by using this machine?
The cylinder now contains the Freon and the lubricant right? OR does the recovery equipment remove the lubricant?
Is this ur first time bro ,just curious if you used it again and what you ve learnt
The valve on the gauges on the yellow line should not be a valve but the should be where the purge is and that should just be a cap.... please clarify
No, the yellow line is the red & blue lines combined & go straight to the recovery tank via the machine. The best place to purge air on this setup is right before it enters the tank.
the valve you are trying to open at 5:09 yellow hose is not a valve its a cap, hay and im a truck driver and i no better.
Yeah that screw at the top of yellow hose in between the gauges is not a valve, its an additional outlet with a cap. By unscrewing it you just made a leak in the system and potential source for air contamination in refrigerant youre extracting.. it is pretty clear you dont know what youre doing, you need to read the procedure several times so you dont seem too confused when looking at gauges and valves/
Glad you posted a video about those portable recovery machines I’ve seen. I was curious why some are 4 to 5k and then some are $500, This pretty much answers that.Now it looks like it’s going to be phased out anyway with a r1234yf and a $5k machine wouldn’t work on that and you’d have to buy a different machine,but I’m no professional. I just remember when you could buy r12 and then it was phased out and a 30# can was $700, then wished I’d have gotten some before so I could have cold ac again.
Im an hvac tech. And this set up would work for me since I have all these tools. The only thing Im missing is what the automotive recover machines have: a way to recover the Oil it gets from the refrigerant recovered. Thanks
@WorldRenownedCFE the oil is not the refrigerant you expert.
THE OILS NEED TO BE MISCIBLE WITH REFRIGERANTS IN ORDER FOR IT TO LUBRICATE THE COMPRESSOR. THAT MEANS ITS A HOMOGENEOUS MIXTURE. So technically it is apart of the refrigerant. So inadvertently you will be removing oils aswell. Rule of thumb: the slower the recovery the less oils will be removed. The faster the recovery the more oils will be removed.
@@rightconditions2010 😂
Doofus
6:11 - so the hybrids use r410 for its heat pump? and is the refridge in vapor form on both sides when the ac is not running?
You had me till $400...f*ck the ozone
$400 plus $100 for a tank plus $ for additional hoses/connectors. Sheeeeeeeeeeeeiiid
Please don’t do,something you not sure how to do🤷🏼♂️
So what exactly do I do with the recovered freon?
Can you do a vacuum test with that thing?
Can you put a link for the supplies and equipment you use so we can support you.
If it has air in it,how do you underestand ?and what should be done?
So how do you Put the Refrigerant Back in the Car? With all that Air in the Tank and a Little Bit Of The Refrigerant??
I only recovered the vapor not the liquid.
UA-cam just kills me. If it weren't for real mechanics everybody would be so screwed. I actually watched a guy make a video on how to grease your brake pads and the guy was really serious. I really wanted to see the test drive. Instead of greasing the caliper sliders he greased the whole pads.
@@LungsMcGee That is dirty business
Please I want to know if there’s no oil in the Compresor how can you know and how do you put or filled it?
Do you need 2 set of gauges ? Is not enough with the machine ones ?
Does this unit have a built in vaccum pump to get out moisture or do you need to buy a separate vaccum pump?
My same exact question
Separate
What's up with loosening the cap on the yellow line? That does nothing. Also, there is air in the tank which is not good for reusing refrigerant.
That is not a valve,that is just a brass cap
If you have had a slow leak, but system still has refrigerant and you do the recovery, how do you know how much oil is in the system. The RG3 and other portable recovery machines do not separate out the oil so it can be measured. I contacted Robinair, and they said the RG3 & RG6 would not get all of the oil out of the system. The under the hood label specifies the refrigerant weight, and the number of ounces of oil. I have not been able to see an answer to this, or see it addressed anywhere. Too much or too little oil would be a problem. Thanks.
That's a very good point. I will add: that it would tend to leak the gas first, as it's not a liquid. And a significant amount of oil would likely remain in the lower ends of the system. I found a lot myself on a couple of recent disassembles of a system after recovering the gas.
Yes, it would be nice to know exactly how much oil to gas ratio is in the system. There should be some sort of sample analysis gauge or something to do that with. Guess you just have to kind of guess work it.
Yeah, if you want oil separation in a portable recovery machine, I'd look at Mastercool portables like the 69110 or 69350. If you already own a recovery machine and would like to add oil extraction capability, you can add it to your existing system using an oil separator, such as the CPC CRXOS1. I'd recommend combining it with an inline receiver/drier filter for added protection. Or you can just go with the RecoveryMate 69500 from Mastercool. The entire oil separation and filtration system is pre-made for you and contained in a plastic box, even comes with the hoses to connect it to your current recovery machine. Comes with gauges, receiver/drier filter, oil separator, sight glass and hoses. This would probably cost about as much as a used Mastercool 69110 though. Hope this helps!
You would have to do a flush to get everything out. Then start over.
my label on the hood only mentions how much r134a says nothing about how much oil.
Wow! how much oil will the reclama take out of the system ??? This ac will run low on oil
Can you use the same recovery machine to recharge the system? or are these types of recovery machines specifically just for removing freon?
To recharge the compressor suction is used. If the compressor doesn't work just replace it.
Can you vacuum the system with the machine if you replace a part and want to vacuum it
Yes absolutely you must do that and always install a new accumulater/filter dryer
I have a 2005 HONDA CRV LX that is in a no Crank no start situation ( it has a kickers AC in it ) AND I m thinking of PARTING IT OUT : DOES THIS PROCEDURE WORK IF THE HONDA WONT EVEN CRANK ??????
yes
Can you put the recovered refrigerant back into the system after you make repairs?
Depends, if you leave same compressor it's ok, but if you put in a new compressor it already comes with oil inside it, so you can't put it back in with the old oil in the refrigerant.
DO NOT FOLLOW THIS VIDEO. THIS CAN BE REALLY DANGEROUS WHEN DONE IMPROPERLY. WHEN A GUY TURNS A DUST CAP AND SAYS HE IS OPENING SOMETHING. DANGER. DANGER. DANGER!
That’s a bleed valve cover on the manifold…
Can we recover R134a Gas with the help of Split AC Compressor?
Thanks I had to replace my ac condenser/ transmission cooler it’s one pice witch is stupid. The ac is fine the trans cooler was leaking so I had take out the Freon discontent the lines and put the new cooler in and put the lines back and re change it
Generally the trans cooler is a part of the radiator…
What's the advantage of using a machine as compared to icing a bottle without the machine?
The machine is used to recover the refrigerant. No other way to do it. You just just don't fill your system with a bottle because it'll over fill your system and cause leaks.
@@D1amondeyes but a machine is made by someone . What are the important features that make it better than a human guaging everything.
Did you reuse that same refrigerant, did you just hook the recovery tank to the car and use the car to suck up the refrigerant? Good video.
Was very difficult to hear voice over the loud sound of the recovery machine. Overall even with headphones and watch listening twice I was able to get it still with difficulty. Question... Does this machine offer PURGE so that I would be able to clear all residue of refrigerant from the RG3 to prevent corrosion and be able to use the machine with multiple refrigerants?
I'm glad you were able to glean some useful information. The RG3 is a universal Refrigerant Recovery Machine - compatible with almost all types refrigerant. I don't recall if there is a special purge routine other than just air pressure. We only got it for R134a & maybe the newer R1234yf in Automobile systems.
I was nervous watching this video. Waiting for something to blow up. Dude didn’t seem so sure of what he was doing.
now I get the idea......!!! thank you much for a very well explained video.
Feb 20th 2024 them NAPA 1/4” FFL female to 1/2” Acme male is $17 a piece!
There’s a date printed on my 134a cylinder. Do you know what the date represents?
Mine says: 01-08-2021
Could be the date of manufacture or... "Refillable cylinders must be retested and recertified every five years, and the test date must be stamped on the cylinder shoulder."
@@theevolvingworld I bought it brand new sealed. So I assume it’s manufactured date?
@@christopherowens2635 It must be. There's probably another marking on it "A-26" or "01-26" for the expiry or need to re-certify date.
I can tell you really don't know what you are doing and should not be trying to teach on A/C systems. There is so much more to it than what you explained. You have my respect for taking on this project. A/C's are really not for the DIY. And time to recharge if you use a scales like Matt said and if you get it right your safe . Put to recharge you have to take into account the temperature and humidity because a hot day your pressure will be higher, you can really do some damage if you over charge. Take it to the pro. Good luck with you project.
Hes not even talking about recharging it yet... Hes just evacuating the system.
But be honest how many ac systems have you personally seen get damaged by not taking humidity into account lol omg it's not that deep
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Bro, I’m an A/C tech, as long as you do this in a shop of some kind where your temperatures don’t rise and fluctuate much you are good. No shop takes temperature and humidity into account, trust me, unless you take it to like a Ferrari/Lamborghini dealer maybe… he had a few things he could’ve done better, but none enough to damage your system.
Sure, he’s an amateur, but the reason this has so many views is that DIYers are tired of being hosed by con men that pretend like basic A/C work is rocket science so they can gouge your wallet.
I hate being a stickler about things but I cringe at incorrect terms - Freon isn't Refrigerant. There I said it - now life continues on as normal.
Just like calling concrete cement. That's like calling cookies flour.
Yea ur just being a stickler lol
How long need to recover times.
Where did you get those adapters?
How can you tell if your car system is still holding refrigerant after your compressor, condenser and fan breaks.
Alot of Debris got caught in my condenser, suffocating the air needing to cool it. In turn overloading 1 of 2 fans and the compressor.
07 Civic
OH man I love how you opened the valve I mean cap lol.
I hate to say it but you botched this job to the max!! $600 eff up
Terminology is important too....Freon is R-12. Refrigerant is common. or just say R-134a. yes i seen quite a few boo-boos but that is covered in the following threads. Almost a perfect job.
Freon is a BRAND NAME refrigerant. Using the word Freon instead of the word 'refrigerant' is like using the word Kleenex for tissue....
It would help is you list the parts. I buy a recovery machine and do I need to buy an adapter for r134a?
Awesome video thanks!
600$ vs $25 for 2 lbs of 134a, i guess if youll keep using that machine. It looks like you got 5 or 6ft hoses, with that little purge you did i bet you still had air in the line. anyway good video, it was entertaining
Pretty sure the high pressure side is the vapor side not liquid…
All the camera movement made me sea-sick... LOL
Dude at 5:07 you open up What?
My man, I appreciate what you're trying to do, but you're not qualified to be making 'how to videos'. The brass knob on the center port of the manifold is not a valve.