I love the new pipe sound!! I pick up new 22 in February due to no since in getting one in the winter.. i can save some more money for the mods!! Like what you just did!! Thank s
Nice vid and bike man. Sounds wicked. On the new header, did it come with the rubber piece at the end of it (where slip on is) and did it also come with new springs for the header?
I’m not sure what it solely did for performance, since I put other parts on the motor before I actually took it out on the trails, but I can tell you one thing, it doesn’t dent as easily as the stock one 😆
@@Braydonmh I bought one, so I’ll answer my own question for Others/ the gnarly gives a lot more bottom to low mid range torque. Makes the bike chug a bit better than stock; however the gnarly pipe loses a lot of upper mid and top speed. Definently not a good pipe for motocross.
@@chadrides914 But a 2-stroke is not going to keep up to 4-strokes anyway for MX, (if you are racing against 4-strokes), on the new super highway 4-stroke tracks, no matter what you do to the engine. We might as well make this bike a good woods bike, and this is the pipe to help do that. I also lowered my bike 1" in the seat and .75" in the suspension, and rotated my handlebars back to the rationals 80's,---for much better cornering, and to be able to touch the ground in a bad situation. The stock YZ 2-stroke is a bike with out a home. But i made it the best 250cc bike I ever had since 1984.
@@EarthSurferUSA “for better cornering” you lowered the suspension and run a low seat, for “ better cornering “….bahahahahhahahaha people don’t take this guys route for better cornering 🤦♂️
@@Braydonmh Yes. It sounds even more rich than stock, and stock is rich, (they all are with a carb, for different air quality around the world, to be on the safe side.). You can run it rich, and the exhaust is sloppy, and the power valve may gump up quicker, and you may foul a plug, but nothing major like running lean and seizing the engine. But if you jet the carb well, you will gain much noticeable power, the exhaust will run more clean, the power valves won't gump up as quickly, you will use less gas, and the water will even warm up faster when starting it cold. Try at least dropping the needle one clip/groove, (raise the clip one groove), and check out the difference. It will come on the power harder and cleaner, and you will feel a pretty big difference.
@@Braydonmh I bought the same Cycra's, but I did not like how they clamp on the pro taper bars. I have a little machine shop, (port little 2-stroke engines for a living), so I designed my own and modified the Cyra's. Now they only clamp on the 7/8" grip parts of the bar, and look like a set of the "flag" style from the front, and can use my stock bar pad. I made mine rigid, (screwed in the end of the bar, and made a keyed washer to key the end of the handlebar and aluminum bar together), so they are very rigid, but I could sheer off a keyed washer in a crash I suspect. They can also be set up to twist on the bar, in case somebody is worried about breaking their hand in them in a crash. I want to sell the design to a company, but it may be hard to find one that won't just rip me off. They look great, and they don't stiffen up the bar flex like long mounts can do.
If you want the best performance and cleanest running, even a new bike should be re-jetted. Adding a pipe or porting, should do it again. When jetted well, there should just be some smoke on start up, and you won't have black goo leaking from the pipe anywhere. With a stock bike, you can expect about 2hp more with good jetting alone. They come rich from the factory to be safe with air quality anywhere on the world.
@@EarthSurferUSA Thanks! I did an FMF Fatty/Shorty and jetted to FMF's spec - Main 175, Pilot 48. It leaks at the pipe/silencer connection now, but also I noticed that the connection also isn't as secure as the stock pipe/silencer, it doesn't fit as snug. (I added high-temp silicone to this spot) After a long day of riding I have a little oil residue at the end of the silencer, but nothing oozing or dripping like a leak. I also trail ride half the time so all the mechanics will say that on a 2 stroke race bike, it was designed to stay on the pipe otherwise you will end up with unburnt oil.
@@Jordan348_MX I like to lower the needle first, then fix the jetting at the ends ( Main jet if needed, rarely need a different pilot jet). But one groove on the needle jet can be a pretty big jump. You can make a little spacer out of aluminum that is about half the distance of one groove setting to place under the needle clip, (lower the needle on groove, but add the spacer), and find a happy middle if needed. The mechanics are wrong. The un-burnt oil is from being rich where ever the RPM's are at. It does not have to run rich anywhere in the rpm range. You are still running a bit rich somewhere in the RPM range. The FMF pipe comes with new O-rings for the pipe flange. But if you want to use a silicone, the Permatex "Ultra Black" is much tougher than the orange stuff and handles a bit more heat. Clean the surfaces well before applying it, and let it cure for a day or 2 before you start the engine.
@@EarthSurferUSA I'm glad you said something. My gut was telling me thats a lot of oil to be spitting, and that maybe it needs to adjusted or possible run a leaner mix. It's not a ton, but I feel like it could probably be adjusted one more time. I used the factory flange from the stock silencer, because the FMF exhaust system didnt come with anything extra, so I applied several rounds of red silicone to the silencer and its cured for a few days now. I am gonna install it tonight and see. Seems like these bikes are jetted pretty rich from the factory, but I've also heard running them lean can destroy the engine. I'm just trying to do the right thing here 😀
That’s the fastest start up I’ve ever seen. That’s one happy healthy bike haha
All my tuned 250cc bikes start up that fast. But I don't see smoke come out of the silencer until is starts. :)
I love the new pipe sound!! I pick up new 22 in February due to no since in getting one in the winter.. i can save some more money for the mods!! Like what you just did!! Thank s
Use q zip tie for you exhaust springs, use one to get it off and the same one to put it back on then just cut it off
Sound loud and powerful
めちゃくちゃ良い音ですね
good riff 🤘🤘
That bike is nice 👍
Thanks boss!
Nice vid and bike man. Sounds wicked. On the new header, did it come with the rubber piece at the end of it (where slip on is) and did it also come with new springs for the header?
Crispy
Hey holler of you ever want to ride up in bend area.. great video the 250x sounds nice. I've got one also. Cheers!
I just got one of these bikes , it’s a 17.
And I can’t seem to adjust the idle proper it doesn’t sound the same , yours sounds right
Same honestly, i think maybe we should get our carbs tuned
U Gotta Get Your Carb Tuned Proberly Otherwize it Could Shorten The Life Of Your Bike
Is the stock pipe really more tucked compare to the fmf?
What did you think of the gnarly performance wise out on the trail?
I’m not sure what it solely did for performance, since I put other parts on the motor before I actually took it out on the trails, but I can tell you one thing, it doesn’t dent as easily as the stock one 😆
@@Braydonmh I bought one, so I’ll answer my own question for
Others/ the gnarly gives a lot more bottom to low mid range torque. Makes the bike chug a bit better than stock; however the gnarly pipe loses a lot of upper mid and top speed. Definently not a good pipe for motocross.
@@chadrides914 But a 2-stroke is not going to keep up to 4-strokes anyway for MX, (if you are racing against 4-strokes), on the new super highway 4-stroke tracks, no matter what you do to the engine. We might as well make this bike a good woods bike, and this is the pipe to help do that. I also lowered my bike 1" in the seat and .75" in the suspension, and rotated my handlebars back to the rationals 80's,---for much better cornering, and to be able to touch the ground in a bad situation. The stock YZ 2-stroke is a bike with out a home. But i made it the best 250cc bike I ever had since 1984.
@@EarthSurferUSA “for better cornering” you lowered the suspension and run a low seat, for “ better cornering “….bahahahahhahahaha people don’t take this guys route for better cornering 🤦♂️
Is that a Turbinecore 2 for your exhaust?
Yes
Is it worth buying an fmf fatty for my yz ?
Fatty Should Help Through The Entire Powerband And Gnarly Helps With Low End Torque And Powerband
Would sound better if you cleared it out properly
Did you have to change the jetting?
No
@@Braydonmh Yes. It sounds even more rich than stock, and stock is rich, (they all are with a carb, for different air quality around the world, to be on the safe side.). You can run it rich, and the exhaust is sloppy, and the power valve may gump up quicker, and you may foul a plug, but nothing major like running lean and seizing the engine. But if you jet the carb well, you will gain much noticeable power, the exhaust will run more clean, the power valves won't gump up as quickly, you will use less gas, and the water will even warm up faster when starting it cold. Try at least dropping the needle one clip/groove, (raise the clip one groove), and check out the difference. It will come on the power harder and cleaner, and you will feel a pretty big difference.
Wanna sell me your stock pipe? :P
Also what wrap arounds are you using? Do they fit the stock bars without any modifications?
They’re cycra probends, had to modify the number plate a tad, and shorten the clutch lever
@@Braydonmh I bought the same Cycra's, but I did not like how they clamp on the pro taper bars. I have a little machine shop, (port little 2-stroke engines for a living), so I designed my own and modified the Cyra's. Now they only clamp on the 7/8" grip parts of the bar, and look like a set of the "flag" style from the front, and can use my stock bar pad. I made mine rigid, (screwed in the end of the bar, and made a keyed washer to key the end of the handlebar and aluminum bar together), so they are very rigid, but I could sheer off a keyed washer in a crash I suspect. They can also be set up to twist on the bar, in case somebody is worried about breaking their hand in them in a crash. I want to sell the design to a company, but it may be hard to find one that won't just rip me off. They look great, and they don't stiffen up the bar flex like long mounts can do.
Did you have to re-jet the carb any?
If you want the best performance and cleanest running, even a new bike should be re-jetted. Adding a pipe or porting, should do it again. When jetted well, there should just be some smoke on start up, and you won't have black goo leaking from the pipe anywhere. With a stock bike, you can expect about 2hp more with good jetting alone. They come rich from the factory to be safe with air quality anywhere on the world.
@@EarthSurferUSA Thanks! I did an FMF Fatty/Shorty and jetted to FMF's spec - Main 175, Pilot 48. It leaks at the pipe/silencer connection now, but also I noticed that the connection also isn't as secure as the stock pipe/silencer, it doesn't fit as snug. (I added high-temp silicone to this spot) After a long day of riding I have a little oil residue at the end of the silencer, but nothing oozing or dripping like a leak. I also trail ride half the time so all the mechanics will say that on a 2 stroke race bike, it was designed to stay on the pipe otherwise you will end up with unburnt oil.
@@Jordan348_MX I like to lower the needle first, then fix the jetting at the ends ( Main jet if needed, rarely need a different pilot jet). But one groove on the needle jet can be a pretty big jump. You can make a little spacer out of aluminum that is about half the distance of one groove setting to place under the needle clip, (lower the needle on groove, but add the spacer), and find a happy middle if needed. The mechanics are wrong. The un-burnt oil is from being rich where ever the RPM's are at. It does not have to run rich anywhere in the rpm range. You are still running a bit rich somewhere in the RPM range. The FMF pipe comes with new O-rings for the pipe flange. But if you want to use a silicone, the Permatex "Ultra Black" is much tougher than the orange stuff and handles a bit more heat. Clean the surfaces well before applying it, and let it cure for a day or 2 before you start the engine.
@@EarthSurferUSA I'm glad you said something. My gut was telling me thats a lot of oil to be spitting, and that maybe it needs to adjusted or possible run a leaner mix. It's not a ton, but I feel like it could probably be adjusted one more time. I used the factory flange from the stock silencer, because the FMF exhaust system didnt come with anything extra, so I applied several rounds of red silicone to the silencer and its cured for a few days now. I am gonna install it tonight and see. Seems like these bikes are jetted pretty rich from the factory, but I've also heard running them lean can destroy the engine. I'm just trying to do the right thing here 😀
Of course it's a 2 stroke 🤦
Cool, no answers or follow up. Welcome to UA-cam uploader world .
Sorry dude! I’m incredibly busy and forget that I even uploaded these videos sometimes 🤷♂️
I don't hear any difference.