Good video. So many of these types of videos skip over one or more important steps, such is how the connector comes undone. Many times connectors are difficult or next to impossible to see, and unless you know exactly what you're feeling for, you can't tell by touch alone what needs to go where in order to disconnect it. Instruction videos sometimes skip over things like that and just say "Next, disconnect the plug" without showing it. Your video was very thorough. I've had a very slow, intermittent oil drip for a while from what I now suspect is my (2001 OEM) sending unit, so I'm going to put in a new one in conjunction with an oil change. This video is very helpful.
Thanks for showing the tip on the red tab no Vidio I looked at showed how to do it they only said it had to be unlocked not how to do it. Made it real easy. Thanks for the detailed View
The part number for the oil pressure sending unit/pressure sensor made by BWD is S4178. I used it for a 2006 Chrysler T&C with a 3.8L 6-cyl engine. Advice: consider changing the oil when replacing this sensor. The oil filter I like to use is a Purolator PL14670 with a 5 micron filter. The 5 micron filter medium with silicone anti-siphon/drain-back valve makes the Purolator is a very good oil filter for the money. I've seen other brands with less efficient filters listed for more money. Certainly you can buy a cheaper filter with a less efficient filter medium. But since it's your engine, ask yourself whether a couple of bucks extra is really worth quibbling about compared to the cost of engine wear. Check to see what you are buying in an oil filter. If you choose to spend more on an oil filter, make sure you are getting your money's worth by comparing features. I really like to silicone anti drain-back valve because it remains flexible in both cold and hot temps and doesn't embrittle with age like rubber. To install the pressure sensor, you MUST get the special wrench with the "rounded hex opening" as well. A standard deep-well 1-1/16 inch socket just won't work with the design of this sensor. Go ahead and spend the money on that special tool. Part number for the PT brand used here is W80590 and I got everything at my local CarQuest/Advance Auto Parts. When installing the new pressure sensor, you don't have to bottom the sensor threads in the socket to be effective. You risk breaking it if you do. Just screw it into the block socket a thread of two beyond the Teflon tape. You can leave a few of the metal threads on the upper portion of the sensor exposed, and it still should not leak. There is plenty of tape already applied by the factory, so you don't need to add more. If you remove and re-install it again, just strip off the old and add a few wraps of new tape in between. If you change your oil when installing this sensor, it helps to have the oil drained and the oil filter off and out of the way. beforehand. Also, when installing the new sensor and you think a bit ahead, you can orient the sensor to a point that optimizes putting the green socket connector back on. I used a tiny bit of di-electric grease for the sensor connector pin as well as the outer plastic housing of the sensor socket to make the green plug easier to put back in. There is a metal pressure line and the plastic fan shroud in close quarters to the oil sensor. The special socket takes up some room in between the block and those items. You might have to dig through your tools to get the right amount of extra extension or get creative with a crescent or narrow head socket to get a good turn. It comes off snugly and goes on the same way, so it takes some torque application when turning either way. Just be patient and careful to make sure you are square on the socket to prevent damaging the sensor. Maneuvering space is tight, so take your time and you'll get it eventually,. Once the sensor is installed, screw in the new oil filter, replace your drain plug, and fill w/ 5 quarts of oil. Start, and run the engine. Check for leaks around the sensor port. Hope this helps!
Thank you for posting. I have a 2009 with a 3.3 liter and it is in the same location. It took me longer to find the correct location video than to replace the sensor.
@@gizmoflyslow9854 I changed my oil at the same time. Having the oil filter off made it a bit easier. I would recommend at least spinning the oil filter and installing a new one just to make it easier to see and get your hands in there. Thanks
I should of seen this video before attempting to replace the oil sensor myself. This video would of saved me a lot of time and trouble. Thanks for sharing.
I have a 2000 Chrysler Town and Country 3.8 thanks for the video. Mine is not leaking oil but leaking antifreeze from that area prob from some hose above. I just wanted to tell you that my oil pressure sensor was not screwed in all the way and it wasn't leaking. It looked like mine had 3-4 threads viewable. I tightened it like you did all the way thinking it was leaking antifreeze. Now i see its oil not antifreeze i will back it up bc may leak later like yours.
I read online that you should tighten these pst a certain torque, because you can damage the fitting it screws into. Not sure if my was snugged all the way in like this one. I torqued it to spec and it only screwed about halfway in. I noticed the threads were tapered like a pipe fitting. Hopefully it doesn’t leak
Great video showing the whole process. Thanks! I'm about to do this on my 07. Do you think it's possible to use a regular deep socket, and/or a wrench if I were to remove the oil filter for more access room?
Unfortunately, the shape of the sending unit won't let you use a regular deepwell socket. (I tried) I don't think you can use a regular wrench either but I guess you can give that a try. I just sucked it up and bought the special socket. It's still cheaper than paying a mechanic! Good luck with your repair.
@@gizmoflyslow9854 Hey thanks for that reply back! I trust your experience on this one.... Actually just found out that i can rent/borrow a sensor/switch socket set kit from our Canadian Tire stores up here. Will try it and let you know. Thanks again for the video and support!
Awesome vid. Is there a good way to tell if the sensor is the problem vs the oil pump failing? My oil light will come on (solid light) occasionally but when I check it again after having the car sit the light does not come on. Oil only has a few hundred miles on it and levels look good. Van is an 05 and just hit 59k miles. Thanks for input!
I'm not a certified mechanic so I honestly don't know how to go about checking the health of the oil pump itself. However, with only 59K on the motor I would consider it highly unlikely it was the pump. My O5 is just rolling over 194K and still going strong. You need to closely examine your sensor and look for signs of oil leaking out of the sensor itself. If it's covered in oil already, I'd clean it off really well and then drive it for a few hundred miles to see if you get fresh oil on the sensor. From everything I've read in other forums, THAT is the main sign your sensor has gone bad and why you get the intermittent low oil pressure light. It's a much cheaper and easier fix to replace the sensor. Thanks for your comment and hope this reply helps.
@@gizmoflyslow9854 I appreciate your reply. The oil light was not on the next morning and has not come on in a few weeks of driving daily. If it stays on the next time I'll take your advice and take a look in the sensor for oil. Thanks, Brad
Hola ,muy bien explicado ,grácias ,una pregunta ,despues de cambiar el sensor ,hay qye apagar la luz del tablero con el ordenador enchufado al OBD ? gracias
Hola. Gracias. No creo que tengas que cancelar o restablecer la luz usando tu lector de códigos OBD. Una vez que reemplace el sensor, debería apagarse por sí solo. Espero que esto ayude.
I'm just a DIY guy. I just made sure it was screwed in far enough to cover half the threads that had the locktite coating. I honestly don't think the torque values are that important. Just make sure it's nice and snug. Hope this helps and if someone else can offer better advice, feel free to make a comment.
No issues with this vehicle's oil light coming back on until just last month. OMG, I hope it's not the pump. What else could it be? It seems to drive just fine. My oil light "dings" every time I take a quick trip somewhere. Any other advice would be awesome.
what is the part number for this sensor? Also, is this this same sensor i can use for the transmission oil pressure as well? It looks the same, just don't have any part number or name for it to buy one. Any help will be great. Thank you.
#1 The part number appears to be 05149098AA. #2 Autozone says this is not the same sensor for the transmission. www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/sensor-transmission-oil-pressure/chrysler/town-country
Try subscribing to ChryslerMinivan.net. I'm sure they've discussed this issue over the years. Mine did use oil but not excessive. I don't have it anymore as it became too unreliable for me. Hope this helps and good luck with your T&C.
Hey Frank. I'm not a real mechanic but as far as I know, the oil pressure light is only supposed to come on when you DON'T have any oil pressure. So I guess it's a good thing when yours does not come on, because that means you've got oil pressure while the motor is running. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the compliment and I hope the video helped you out. As for the location of my special socket, that shall remain "close hold" information. ;-)
No, I don't think so. They redesigned the T&C starting with the 2008 model year. I don't know what motor they put in those so I can't tell you whether my video will be valid for a 2012.
Hello Coach. Well, I haven't had to deal with this particular problem before but I think you're still OK. Unless you can visit a junk yard and cut off a replacement connector I would keep this in mind. The primary thing that keeps the connector on the sensor is the flat tab you pressed AFTER you pulled out the red locking tab (that broke). The "red thing" is simply a locking tab to keep the flat tab in place, which is what actually keeps the connector on the sensor. I can't guarantee the connector will stay on the sensor without the red tab but my guess is it will stay put just fine under normal circumstances. I personally would slip a piece of wire through the slot where the red tab was and wrap it around the connector. Twist it tight and it will hopefully keep the flat tab down and keep the connector in place. Again, no guarantees. If anyone else has a better solution or idea, please feel free to chime in! Hope this helps and good luck with your repairs!
Spray it with lithium I like that the best because it's kind of waterproof. Anyway I think WD40 work pretty well too because it's kind of a wax cleaner.
@ferdieserrano7538 A year ago, another guy said a 1 and 1/16 inch deep well socket worked for him. I don't know for sure, but it might be your best option. Hope this helps!
Sorry to hear that but a few others have commented about having the same problem. I would recommend using some thin wire to secure the red locking tab to make sure it doesn't come out. Or you could try putting a drop/blob of silicone adhesive to hold it. Hope this helps!
there is no real reason for them to make the sensor with that unique rounded head. they just want you to purchase that special socket. they could have just made it with a standard bolt type head on it, then you could just use a regular deep socket. WHAT A RIP OFF.
Mike. As Justin commented below, in many respects they are basically the same vehicle when it comes to engine and drive train. The Town & Country has more bells and whistles than the Caravan in the comfort/entertainment department. Chrysler/Dodge considers these as "4th Generation" in the T&C/Caravan product line (2003-2007) so most videos covering those years should apply to your Caravan. I hope you found this video helpful.
Good video. So many of these types of videos skip over one or more important steps, such is how the connector comes undone. Many times connectors are difficult or next to impossible to see, and unless you know exactly what you're feeling for, you can't tell by touch alone what needs to go where in order to disconnect it. Instruction videos sometimes skip over things like that and just say "Next, disconnect the plug" without showing it. Your video was very thorough.
I've had a very slow, intermittent oil drip for a while from what I now suspect is my (2001 OEM) sending unit, so I'm going to put in a new one in conjunction with an oil change. This video is very helpful.
Thanks for the compliment and you hit on the exact reason I make my DIY videos. I'm glad you found it useful and best of luck with your repair.
By far the best video regarding this replacement 👌
Thank you very much! Glad to help.
Thanks for showing the tip on the red tab no Vidio I looked at showed how to do it they only said it had to be unlocked not how to do it. Made it real easy. Thanks for the detailed View
You're very welcome. Happy to help.
Deftly done. "Hey neighbor, can I borrow your socket?" haha
Thank you so much I have the hardest time with just the clips. Very detailed
You're very welcome! Good luck with your repairs!
The part number for the oil pressure sending unit/pressure sensor made by BWD is S4178. I used it for a 2006 Chrysler T&C with a 3.8L 6-cyl engine. Advice: consider changing the oil when replacing this sensor. The oil filter I like to use is a Purolator PL14670 with a 5 micron filter. The 5 micron filter medium with silicone anti-siphon/drain-back valve makes the Purolator is a very good oil filter for the money. I've seen other brands with less efficient filters listed for more money. Certainly you can buy a cheaper filter with a less efficient filter medium. But since it's your engine, ask yourself whether a couple of bucks extra is really worth quibbling about compared to the cost of engine wear. Check to see what you are buying in an oil filter. If you choose to spend more on an oil filter, make sure you are getting your money's worth by comparing features. I really like to silicone anti drain-back valve because it remains flexible in both cold and hot temps and doesn't embrittle with age like rubber. To install the pressure sensor, you MUST get the special wrench with the "rounded hex opening" as well. A standard deep-well 1-1/16 inch socket just won't work with the design of this sensor. Go ahead and spend the money on that special tool. Part number for the PT brand used here is W80590 and I got everything at my local CarQuest/Advance Auto Parts. When installing the new pressure sensor, you don't have to bottom the sensor threads in the socket to be effective. You risk breaking it if you do. Just screw it into the block socket a thread of two beyond the Teflon tape. You can leave a few of the metal threads on the upper portion of the sensor exposed, and it still should not leak. There is plenty of tape already applied by the factory, so you don't need to add more. If you remove and re-install it again, just strip off the old and add a few wraps of new tape in between. If you change your oil when installing this sensor, it helps to have the oil drained and the oil filter off and out of the way. beforehand. Also, when installing the new sensor and you think a bit ahead, you can orient the sensor to a point that optimizes putting the green socket connector back on. I used a tiny bit of di-electric grease for the sensor connector pin as well as the outer plastic housing of the sensor socket to make the green plug easier to put back in. There is a metal pressure line and the plastic fan shroud in close quarters to the oil sensor. The special socket takes up some room in between the block and those items. You might have to dig through your tools to get the right amount of extra extension or get creative with a crescent or narrow head socket to get a good turn. It comes off snugly and goes on the same way, so it takes some torque application when turning either way. Just be patient and careful to make sure you are square on the socket to prevent damaging the sensor. Maneuvering space is tight, so take your time and you'll get it eventually,. Once the sensor is installed, screw in the new oil filter, replace your drain plug, and fill w/ 5 quarts of oil. Start, and run the engine. Check for leaks around the sensor port. Hope this helps!
Excellent video. Great close-ups of the whole process.
Thank you very much! Glad to help!
Thank you for posting. I have a 2009 with a 3.3 liter and it is in the same location. It took me longer to find the correct location video than to replace the sensor.
Excellent! Glad I could help with your repair.
This is an excellent Video! Your detail and added tidbits of info top notch! Thank you,
Thank YOU for your comments. Happy to help. Good luck with your repairs.
@@gizmoflyslow9854 I changed my oil at the same time. Having the oil filter off made it a bit easier. I would recommend at least spinning the oil filter and installing a new one just to make it easier to see and get your hands in there. Thanks
I should of seen this video before attempting to replace the oil sensor myself. This video would of saved me a lot of time and trouble. Thanks for sharing.
I'm really sorry you didn't find my video sooner, but I'm hoping your repair was still successful(?). I truly appreciate the compliment. Thanks!
Good job on the video!
You saved me a lot of money and I'm very grateful.
You are most welcome! Glad to help!
I have a 2000 Chrysler Town and Country 3.8 thanks for the video. Mine is not leaking oil but leaking antifreeze from that area prob from some hose above. I just wanted to tell you that my oil pressure sensor was not screwed in all the way and it wasn't leaking. It looked like mine had 3-4 threads viewable. I tightened it like you did all the way thinking it was leaking antifreeze. Now i see its oil not antifreeze i will back it up bc may leak later like yours.
I read online that you should tighten these pst a certain torque, because you can damage the fitting it screws into. Not sure if my was snugged all the way in like this one. I torqued it to spec and it only screwed about halfway in. I noticed the threads were tapered like a pipe fitting. Hopefully it doesn’t leak
Great video! Really informative!
Wow! Great video! I've been looking how to do one with a 3.8L engine
Thank you! Glad to be of help. Good luck with your repairs!
Really, really, great video. Thanks so much for this, very well done.
You're most welcome Tor! Happy to help. Good luck with your repairs!
Your engine is so clean!😃
Lol! I did my best. She's long gone to her new owner and I hope they're enjoying the ride. Safe travels.
Great video, especially the detailed info connector removal. Thanks 👍🏻
You're welcome! Glad to help.
Just want to say I appreciate the video just got finished doing mine everything worked out perfect Thanks 👍🏿👍🏿
You're most welcome! Glad I could help you with this video. Safe travels.
You're most welcome! Glad I could help you with your repair. Safe travels.
Thank you I needed that help I am very grateful to you.
Thanks for your video, it helped me so much.
You are most welcome! Glad to help!
Wow, for my exact vehicle, too. Thank you.
You're most welcome! Glad to help.
@@gizmoflyslow9854 Hi, where are you located ??? My Caravan oil sender is leaking also. Can I borrow your socket ??? 😄😄😄😄
Since a torque wrench won’t doesn’t fit in the right space along with the oil sensor and socket, how tight did you screw in the new sensor?
Great video showing the whole process. Thanks! I'm about to do this on my 07. Do you think it's possible to use a regular deep socket, and/or a wrench if I were to remove the oil filter for more access room?
Unfortunately, the shape of the sending unit won't let you use a regular deepwell socket. (I tried) I don't think you can use a regular wrench either but I guess you can give that a try. I just sucked it up and bought the special socket. It's still cheaper than paying a mechanic! Good luck with your repair.
@@gizmoflyslow9854 Hey thanks for that reply back! I trust your experience on this one.... Actually just found out that i can rent/borrow a sensor/switch socket set kit from our Canadian Tire stores up here. Will try it and let you know. Thanks again for the video and support!
@@CanadianDrifter777 Outstanding! Good luck on the repair. Happy to help.
Deep wall socket 27mm I done it
Great and informative video,
Thanks Fred! Glad to help!
Awesome vid. Is there a good way to tell if the sensor is the problem vs the oil pump failing? My oil light will come on (solid light) occasionally but when I check it again after having the car sit the light does not come on. Oil only has a few hundred miles on it and levels look good. Van is an 05 and just hit 59k miles. Thanks for input!
I'm not a certified mechanic so I honestly don't know how to go about checking the health of the oil pump itself. However, with only 59K on the motor I would consider it highly unlikely it was the pump. My O5 is just rolling over 194K and still going strong. You need to closely examine your sensor and look for signs of oil leaking out of the sensor itself. If it's covered in oil already, I'd clean it off really well and then drive it for a few hundred miles to see if you get fresh oil on the sensor. From everything I've read in other forums, THAT is the main sign your sensor has gone bad and why you get the intermittent low oil pressure light. It's a much cheaper and easier fix to replace the sensor. Thanks for your comment and hope this reply helps.
@@gizmoflyslow9854 I appreciate your reply. The oil light was not on the next morning and has not come on in a few weeks of driving daily. If it stays on the next time I'll take your advice and take a look in the sensor for oil.
Thanks,
Brad
Thank you!!! 👍🏽 good views!
Hola ,muy bien explicado ,grácias ,una pregunta ,despues de cambiar el sensor ,hay qye apagar la luz del tablero con el ordenador enchufado al OBD ? gracias
Hola. Gracias. No creo que tengas que cancelar o restablecer la luz usando tu lector de códigos OBD. Una vez que reemplace el sensor, debería apagarse por sí solo. Espero que esto ayude.
@@gizmoflyslow9854 perfecto ,ha sido cambiar el sensor y desapareció la luz de presion de aceite ,gracias ,felices fiestas 👍☺️
You are the man
Why thank you! Glad to help!
Since a torque wrench won’t fit in the right space along with the oil sensor and socket, how tight did you screw in the new sensor?
I'm just a DIY guy. I just made sure it was screwed in far enough to cover half the threads that had the locktite coating. I honestly don't think the torque values are that important. Just make sure it's nice and snug. Hope this helps and if someone else can offer better advice, feel free to make a comment.
Gracias me sirvió mucho!
De nada!
Good video thanks
You're welcome! Glad to help!
Url to buy it on amazon or ebay ?
thanks for the video
You're most welcome. Good luck with your repairs!
How much oil leaks out when you take the sensor out? It doesn't look like much in the video but how long did it take to stop trickling out?
Hi Nancy. It's not much and the quicker you get the new sensor installed, even with just a couple threads, it will stop dripping. Hope this helps.
No issues with this vehicle's oil light coming back on until just last month. OMG, I hope it's not the pump. What else could it be? It seems to drive just fine. My oil light "dings" every time I take a quick trip somewhere. Any other advice would be awesome.
Is your oil filled to the proper level? Are you seeing any evidence of leakage?
@@gizmoflyslow9854 I see oil moisture but very little and I"m not sure where it"s coming from.
what is the part number for this sensor? Also, is this this same sensor i can use for the transmission oil pressure as well? It looks the same, just don't have any part number or name for it to buy one. Any help will be great. Thank you.
#1 The part number appears to be 05149098AA. #2 Autozone says this is not the same sensor for the transmission. www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/sensor-transmission-oil-pressure/chrysler/town-country
Got it. Thank you...
Have you had any oil consumption problems with your town and country? Or found any resources about it?
Try subscribing to ChryslerMinivan.net. I'm sure they've discussed this issue over the years. Mine did use oil but not excessive. I don't have it anymore as it became too unreliable for me. Hope this helps and good luck with your T&C.
Issues putting the clip back in. Is the red tab supposed to just push in easily
Remind the trusty old needle nose pliers helped
How many miles were in your van? great 🎥 👍
Thank you! I had approximately 185,000 on the van. Good luck with your repair!
Got a 1997 Chrysler Grand Voyager minivan 3.3 litre V6. The oil pressure light does not come on. Could the sensor be bad? Please let me know.
Hey Frank. I'm not a real mechanic but as far as I know, the oil pressure light is only supposed to come on when you DON'T have any oil pressure. So I guess it's a good thing when yours does not come on, because that means you've got oil pressure while the motor is running. Hope this helps!
I think it has a pipe through it on it so you don't really need to tighten it. You could put it in a good position.
Great video. I can do this!
Thank you! Good luck with your repair!
Good job 👍
Thank you! Glad to help!
Thank you ... thank you ... thank you 😊
You're most welcome! Happy to help!
Great video, where are you located , can I borrow your socket ?
Thanks for the compliment and I hope the video helped you out. As for the location of my special socket, that shall remain "close hold" information. ;-)
Gracias amigo
De nada!
Is it same for a 2013 Chrysler touring van ..
I do not believe it is the same as my video. My van had a 3.8 liter engine and the 2013 has a 3.6 liter. My video may not be helpful.
Would this be the same for a 2012 Town & Country?
No, I don't think so. They redesigned the T&C starting with the 2008 model year. I don't know what motor they put in those so I can't tell you whether my video will be valid for a 2012.
A 1 1/16" deep well socket fits. Why I have one, I don't know...but it saved me 15 bucks.
Hello. DIY gone bad.... I broke the red thing. What can I do?
Hello Coach. Well, I haven't had to deal with this particular problem before but I think you're still OK. Unless you can visit a junk yard and cut off a replacement connector I would keep this in mind.
The primary thing that keeps the connector on the sensor is the flat tab you pressed AFTER you pulled out the red locking tab (that broke). The "red thing" is simply a locking tab to keep the flat tab in place, which is what actually keeps the connector on the sensor. I can't guarantee the connector will stay on the sensor without the red tab but my guess is it will stay put just fine under normal circumstances. I personally would slip a piece of wire through the slot where the red tab was and wrap it around the connector. Twist it tight and it will hopefully keep the flat tab down and keep the connector in place. Again, no guarantees.
If anyone else has a better solution or idea, please feel free to chime in!
Hope this helps and good luck with your repairs!
Thank you.
@@gizmoflyslow9854 I used a steel tie thingy. I put threw there to keep it in place.
I’m getting a p0522 code could this be the reason?
Google says "Yes"
Spray it with lithium I like that the best because it's kind of waterproof. Anyway I think WD40 work pretty well too because it's kind of a wax cleaner.
DO NOT TIGHTEN ALL THE WAY DOWN! I have an 08 4.0 Limited and kept tightening only to crack my oil pump and a little cheap part turned into $700 job!
Hate that deep socket, Can't find it anywhere here in my location right now.
@ferdieserrano7538 A year ago, another guy said a 1 and 1/16 inch deep well socket worked for him. I don't know for sure, but it might be your best option. Hope this helps!
Yeah...ummm....I broke the thumb press thingy after pulling out the red tab...
Sorry to hear that but a few others have commented about having the same problem. I would recommend using some thin wire to secure the red locking tab to make sure it doesn't come out. Or you could try putting a drop/blob of silicone adhesive to hold it. Hope this helps!
Just spin the oil filter off. It would make it easier man.
Yup, I'll change the sensor at the next oil change.
I have oil pressure going On.
there is no real reason for them to make the sensor with that unique rounded head. they just want you to purchase that special socket. they could have just made it with a standard bolt type head on it, then you could just use a regular deep socket. WHAT A RIP OFF.
I searched for 2006 dodge caravan and got this instead.
Lol it's the same dam thing
Mike. As Justin commented below, in many respects they are basically the same vehicle when it comes to engine and drive train. The Town & Country has more bells and whistles than the Caravan in the comfort/entertainment department. Chrysler/Dodge considers these as "4th Generation" in the T&C/Caravan product line (2003-2007) so most videos covering those years should apply to your Caravan. I hope you found this video helpful.
I wonder what causes that sensor to go out, other than being made of very cheap, chinsey plastic, and being flimsey electrical nonsense?