How to access and replace a fuel injector or remove the intake plenum on a Chrysler Town and Country van. Snap on FAR25 store.snapon.com/Air-Ratchets...
This is BY FAR the best "how to" video for this year and engine. Thank you so much for posting this. It really can be an easy job when you have a pro like you sitting how it's done. Amazing!
I know this video has been out for a while, but I’ve only just come across it. It is extremely well done, and I’m very impressed with how you did the whole tear down with just one hand!
Thanks for the great video! It was a tremendous help. Gave me the confidence to handle this job on a 3.8L Town and Country. For your viewers: I found no valve near or on the fuel rail to relieve fuel pressure on my vehicle. I removed the fuel relay and started the van to relieve the pressure. Only takes a few seconds and works well.
Thanks for posting this video! While my 2008 Town and Country isn't exactly the same engine layout, the basic info in your video was enough to get me going to change the #2 injector that was causing a P0202 code. After changing the injector the van now runs great again.
dave mcddd Awesome! I can't recall ever getting a P0202 out of any car, truck or van. Normally a vehicle misfires and you have to spend a lot of time diagnosing whether it's ignition, fuel or mechanically related. Congratulations on your repair!
The computer set a P0202 code because it was seeing an unexpected resistance of the injector #2 circuit. In this case the #2 injector coil measured as an open circuit instead of the usual 12 ohms. I was fully expecting to find a loose connection or a wiring problem, but it was indeed a burned out injector coil that was causing the problem.
Hot damn, this was great. Thanks you for the straight forward, clearly filmed walk through. I noticed though you mention releasing the fuel pressure, but didn't explain how one might do that. I hope it something easy. I'll google how, but others might be lost with that. haha. Thanks again! This is great!
bud herz there are multiple ways to bleed pressure off the system. Every manufacturer is different but it usually entails opening the fuel cap to relieve pressure in the tank. Then if there’s a schrader valve you could connect a gauge (or just poke it with a screw driver with a rag over both to prevent spraying oneself in the face), but the proper way would be to remove the fuse or relay from the fuel pump circuit, start the vehicle and let it stall, then turn it over a bit more and voila little to no fuel pressure remains. At which point you can cover the lines as you disconnect them to avoid any residual pressure. Most fuel systems are designed to maintain pressure for a limited period of time with check valves in the pump in order to avoid extended cranking times after shut off and injectors are normally closed but if you let the vehicle sit overnight it should have little to no pressure left because it can and will bleed down. Plus it’s generally cooler in the mornings and would be a better time to work on it. It would be advisable to disconnect the battery before removing the lines so no one comes along and decides to check the time or turn on the radio while you’re working on it as well. Murphy’s law always applies!
Guys, I understand what you're saying about removing the fuel pressure, however, we've already disconnected the battery and actually have the engine apart to where we are ready to remove the fuel rail Also how much force will be needed to remove the fuel rail? I have removed the 4 bolts and tried to lift the fuel rail, but it won't budge
Clayton Joiner I’m sorry I missed this. It takes a good amount of force to unseat a fuel rail especially after it’s been in use for years. Wiggling the rail a bit while applying pressure is usually enough to get the rail out. Hopefully this late response helps anyone else puts that has the same question as I’m quite a few days late and probably even more dollars short.
Excellent video.. I have a 2008 saying #5 mis fire I've changed the coil it was not the problem as I was told the rough idle is still there and the code keeps saying mis fire on #5 cylinder so now I'll be be changing the fuel injecter thanks to this video it makes it easier
Great video. I wish you ( and almost every video I see) would spend more time with the electrical connections and how they UNLOCK! I have just spent a 1/2 hour trying to see how to get the electrical connection off behind the throttle body. You just slid your hand in there and gave it a tug and off it came. I can't just lever it off and destroy it. I'm absolutely "dead in the water". oh, that breather hose you just pulled off, mine has factory clamps on it and the only way for me to get it off is cut it into and order a new one at the dealer, I have no tool that will undo those factory clamps. The rest of the nuts and bolts are pretty straight forward and you did a great job. but the one little connector is probably going to send this job to the dealer. arrrgh
Sorry about that! Thank you for the insight too. Doing this work everyday you kind of get into a groove and don’t think about how a lot of it works. I’ll bear that in mind with any future videos I do. Domestic connectors mostly operate off a hinged system. You depress a tab and it lifts off the locking tab. Sometimes the rubber seals stick and cause the connectors to feel stuck as well. There are a couple options when stuck there. You can unbolt the throttle body to pivot it in order to see the connector or unbolt the throttle body and remove the plenum separately leaving the throttle body resting out of the way. I’ve also been know to grab the wife’s mirror when I can’t find any of mine and use it to get a good look behind stuff. Sometimes I use a right angle pick or pocket screwdriver to lift the tab when I pull difficult connectors. Hope that helps a bit!
@@raucousflame2325 That's what I did..................... I just removed the TB from the air box and left all the connector plugged in . Thanks for your prompt reply, I could have just as easily still been here sobbing in my hands 🤣
Gonna give this a shot once I test for spark on my '06 T&C. Replaced all plugs and wires but still misfiring. Gotta find a way to test that distributer as well before I go tearing into stuff.
Your 06 is going to have a distributor less ignition system. The coil pack could be bad but you’ll have to assess the diagnostic trouble codes. If there’s a multi-cylinder misfire the coil pack is likely, if it’s a single cylinder it could be the fuel injector or harness/connector. Good luck with it!
@Tyrell Williams glad to hear it’s running right! One thing to watch for with coil defects are arc marks and cracks. They aren’t always present but you can usually judge condition by checking for these signs(as long as you can get a mirror and some light on the coil). Specs are available online for primary and secondary winding resistances if you have a multimeter available. Resistance is a decent reference point for catching bad windings inside the coil pack(any coil, motor, or winding for that matter. Injectors have windings that can be checked this way).
Yeah I really like your video you do very good recording very good detail and what's going on I learned a lot just watching a couple of your videos and subscribe to you and please keep going and thank you very much
Bought the van w/no problems .. change the oil and notice smell of Gas(never seen that before) came here and now omw to the store to pick up the the injectors fingers crossed 60bucks
Any luck with your van? Sometimes worn piston rings or failed PCV valves can pool fuel in the oil. Another thing is additives that can be poured into the crankcase.
Alset ..took everything apart put all all back , misfire 5 .. got new spark plug now we are back on the road (also had to get new pcv valve.. to get it out easier way try to remove top pice of gasket then grab needle nose pliers (or something strong) grab hole wiggle out then grab a tiny tiny screw driver and peel the rest out (may not look like anything in there but it is ..
Do you have an EGR delete plate on that intake? Mine is an 08 Town and Country with a long metal EGR tube on it. I’m going to replace all my injectors with new ones, hoping it will clear up my 0206 and 0306 codes. I’ve replaced the cam, crank, and MAP sensors already as well. I wanted to thank you for the informative video, it’s great and I sure learned a lot by watching. Really appreciate your work, sir
Big Italy 455 thanks for the feedback! This particular year didn’t appear to have the egr on it. Manufacturers sometimes skip years with devices like egr depending on whether they pass emissions tests without them. “If it can be deleted it saves the manufacturer money in the long run and gets removed, makes the vehicles a little more cost effective”. But on topic, if you delete it you will usually get a code for lack of egr flow (egr insufficient) or fuel trims get weird and set codes like p0171 or something like. One other thing to bear in mind is that misfires can occur at varying intervals, sometimes under light load, heavy load, cruise speed, at idle, in or out of gear etc. that’s what can make them very hard to isolate. Try to isolate when it happens (duplicate) then track the rascal down by making changes (like swapping coils or plugs). Hope that helps a bit. Sounds like your on the right track by the codes and you’ve probably already fixed it!
Excellent video, I've been wondering about my 2000 Caravan 3.3 occasionally throughout the day it would take longer to start and would shudder/shake a little till engine catches idling rpm. Then at a red stoplight the idling would creep down to 550 rpm. Then when turning off engine, it "feels" like it's dieseling for a second??? No check engine lights. Any thoughts or suggestions?
TinyTim it sounds like the throttle plate may be dirty and sticking. First thing I would try is to clean the throttle body and disconnect the battery to see if it will relearn the idle with a clean plate. I can’t recall off the top of my head if it requires a scanner to relearn but most domestics do not.
From beginning to end, how long should the job take if you have the injectors to replace them with? Also, other than plugs, ignition wires, air filter, what else should one consider replacing while they have the top of the motor open like that?
I would allow 4-5 hours in case you run into a problem. I believe labor time for a mechanic is about 3 hours, maybe 3.5, but don’t hold me to that. It would be a good time to clean the throttle body and maybe spray the valves if you want to go the extra mile. Generally speaking you don’t see a lot of buildup on intake valves unless it’s direct injected, which this van isn’t. If you’re suspicious of a connector issue it would be a good idea to have an injector connector on hand as well.
Great video, so these 3.8 engines don't have a fuel injector test port valve? I saw the rail end at 6:11. I only see a quick disconnect fitting no valve.
chvydrptop as far as I recall I don’t think they use a pressure test port. It’s pretty common across the board to have to use a T connector out of a pressure test kit to test fuel pressure. A newer mode vehicle may have a data list item for fuel pressure accessible via scan tool, but aside from that you could make a fitting to T the line if you have an old fuel rail and some rubber hose(it would be advisable to use a tool built for the job however so nothing goes wrong since you’re dealing with fuel).
The cheapest way to find torque specs is to google it. Sometimes they’re easier to find as an image. If you do your own repairs often I would recommend paying for access on alldata.diy or another reputable site. I used them for my own vehicles when I’m away from my work computer. The benefit there is you’ll have access to the same repair information that shops use as well as all the torque specs for each job. Hope that helps!
question.. I have 07 town and country. in the morning start after I wait about 10 mins for van to warm up during cold weather as I'm going in a few seconds driving and as I let go of gas pedal I then try to give gas again and it hardly won't Rev up like if the gas line is clog but no check engine is on. from there all day van is ok. what could it be? help
carlos Mendoza There are a lot of things that can affect the drive ability particularly on cold days. If the vehicle isn't in closed loop, when computer control takes over using the sensors, then it defaults to saved values. A couple easy tests you could try at home would be cleaning your throttle body and disconnecting the battery to clear some of the learned values. Your transmission may shift differently until it relearns and the idle may be low or high. Since there's so much involved in computer control it's hard to go into much detail. Make sure you are using a good gas from a station that sees a lot of traffic. You need a "known" good ignition system so if you haven't had a tuneup in a while you could change ignition parts. Finally, check the transmission level and condition. You'll have to do a little leg work but don't get frustrated. Have your local auto parts store check the charging system for good measure as voltage drop throws the computers off.
Nice video man. Quick question. Should i replace all 6 or just the one is miss firing? I have the same code. I replaced the coil pack ,wires, plugs and still miss firing cylinder 6.
I would only do the one injector unless I found a fault with the others. Though you could treat it like insurance against the fault occurring again, it is not necessary to do all six. I have never seen the same vehicle return with a second injector failure. On my own vehicle I would do one and then just do the next if it goes bad, when it goes bad. Might as well keep some money in the pocket. 👍
car Higgins I would say do what works best for you anytime you work on something. So the first thing to do is to try to turn your ratchet to the firewall with just the socket on it and reach behind, there should be enough room to get in there. If that doesn’t work try a wrench, a gear wrench is usually the easiest to maneuver in tight places but if you take your time any box end wrench should make it work. Finally if all else fails you could attempt to make a tool that fits(by bending one or cutting one off) or go by a set of swivel sockets or extensions that will allow you to get in there. Hope that helps! If your stuck try to think outside the box.
The Routan cranks in the a lot before it turns on and after I pump the accelerator peddle a few times but after that it turns on and runs well could this be fuel injections??
It could be a lot of things. It sounds like fuel pressure is bleeding down and has to build pressure before it starts. If you have a misfire on startup I would suspect the injector. Otherwise it’s likely to be a fuel pump problem. Check for diagnostic trouble codes and trouble shoot from there. If none are found you will have to start with a baseline of some sort like a fuel pressure test and go from there. Make sure it is not due for a tune up and hopefully it will be something easy!
@Richard Sendejas could have gotten bad parts, could be wiring, could be bad driver at pcm. You need some advanced tools or take it to a shop thats competent
No you do not have to. But from a point of safety you should. If you have a wiring problem that short circuits it could potentially create a spark and cause a fire. You also never know when somebody will happen along and either crank the engine or turn the key on to “listen to the radio.” Removing the battery cables eliminates stupid mistakes (particularly from others) from happening. On a side note however, the computer control system will “learn” fuel trims and idle speeds even when misfiring and running rough. Removing the battery cables will (on most vehicles) trigger a relearn and clear diagnostic trouble codes.
Nice vid bro! You made inserting the fuel rail and injectors into the manifold bores look easy. So how come I am having a really hard time getting the injectors and rail to line up into the 6 bores on my 07 Caravan 3.8. I had to replace the O rings because of fuel leak at 3 injectors. I ended up putting new O rings on all 6 injectors but for life of me, I am having a hard time lining up the injectors attached to the rail into the intake manifold bores without putting a lot of muscle squeezing all 6 injectors close together. When I do manage to get all the injectors seated, bolt down the fuel rail, and energize the fuel pump I get a massive leak from the rail. I pull the rail off and find out the new injectors O rings at the top end to the rail are distorted from forcing the rail/injectors into the manifold bores. After 3 tries at this, I am at the end of my rope. Do you have any suggestions? Please help me.
Mike Garcia try to “lubricate” the o-rings with some fuel just before installing them. You’ll want to avoid dropping dirt into the injector holes but it is easiest if the ports are clean and have a light coating of fuel inside them as well. You can use a nylon bore cleaner to ease clearing the ports and it may help to hold a vacuum close as you clean the holes Avoid silicon (damages oxygen sensors) and oil (rots rubber). Install the injectors into the fuel rail first and then set the assembly onto the intake. Try starting one side first if they don’t want to go at the same time and I usually “wiggle” the rail in a circular motion to help walk the o-rings into place. And finally... confirm you were given the proper o-rings for the year, make, model, and engine size because manufacturers occasionally use different thicknesses on different engines. If all else fails you could get the o-rings directly from the dealer if in doubt.
RaucousFlame I read a piece on community car talk highly recommending silicone lube; but you recommend gasoline to lube the O rings? I will try gasoline then. I bought new O rings from NAPA and they matched near perfect in thickness with the old OEMs. I will certainly try the fuel rail circular motion when trying to insert the other side. It was in the 40s here in Denver when I was trying to insert the fuel rail and injectors into the bores; do you think it might have been too cold? Anyway, thank you for responding quickly to my plea for help, and I'll keep you updated when I give it another try this weekend in the 50s. Thanks Bro!
Mike Garcia truth be told you could probably use anything you want to aid the installation but they all have drawbacks. Silicon can damage oxygen sensors but that depends on quantity used, oil deteriorated rubber over time and becomes thick and sticky from heat and can make disassembly difficult and messy if you have to go back in later, fuel works well because it provides lubrication for a short time and evaporates plus the o-rings were made for the fuel system and even if you use too much(so to speak) it will not cause any problems dripping into the cylinder heads. Temperature can play a large part in the difficulty and I hadn’t thought about that. Cold parts are much less flexible as well as cold fingers! Good luck on the next go, you can do it! Perseverance will pay off and the gratification you’ll get is worth a little headache.
RaucousFlame : Solved my issue with injectors/fuel rail install. The original fuel rail I suspected might be slightly warped, so I paid 150 bucks for a new one from a Dodge dealer. Today (Saturday), I installed the new fuel rail and new O rings and the assembly dropped into the manifold bores smooth as slicing butter! No more fuel leaks and my caravan 3.8 runs like a dream! Who woulda' thought the fuel rail would warp over time. Lesson learned for me. Thanks for helping out, especially with the type of O ring lube. I used gas as lube.
Mike Garcia that’s fantastic! I’ve been doing repair work for almost 25 years and that may be a first for me, I’m going to put that in the memory bank. 👍
Hopefully you have a moment to shed some ideas on my CAT issue. I have a huge problem with my 06 TC burning up cats for the last couple of years. This started at about 50k miles. I'm on my 4th cat at 118k. The shop keeps replacing the cat under warranty but something toasting them. Money is tight in my situation and the shop doesn't want to troubleshoot the problem thoroughly. They just slap on another no charge. A quick history about the van. I picked up the 06 TC from carmax at 32k miles. Engine light came on, of course, after warranty was up. EGR sensor bad. Replaced it from advanced auto, easy. Engine light gone. No error codes since about EGR. The engine light started coming on at about 50k miles. P420. Comes on for a day half day. Goes off for a few weeks. Slowly, the light comes on and off more frequently then solid after 7-12 months. Replaced the OEM cat and both sensors. Engine light off for 7-8 months then starts slowly come on and off again. Then solid after about a year. Repeating this process, again, on the 4th cat. I've read and had another opinion from and SAE tech that the injector seals might be bad dumping too much fuel in and overheating the cats. He noticed a heavy fuel smell from the rear. nothing under the hood. We noticed small rubber?, plastic? fragments at the base of the manifold. Not sure what that's from? Seals? Another note is that the fuel mileage is not very good. 16.5 to 17 at max. This should get close to 22 on open road? Open road trips and around town the same fuel economy. Any ideas? Thanks for any help.
Does the vehicle run well? Misfires are usually the cause of catalyst failure. Now there are a lot of variables to break down with a problem like this. Check for any exhaust leaks, particularly near the oxygen sensors. Leaks will cause a drop in back pressure and throw off the fuel trims. Do you have any other DTC's? Too much fuel entering the catalyst will cause it to overheat rapidly and degrade, which is why misfires kill catalysts. If you have a problem losing coolant(these vans like to leak at the water pump and intake) then occasional misfires from overheating could be the culprit. If a oxygen sensor fails it should illuminate the check engine light, same for injector seals (it would throw off the fuel trims and set codes). A faulty injector could potentially leak fuel into the cylinder but should be notable as a misfire on cold starts and under certain driving conditions. I would start with an overall visual inspection of the exhaust system and the ignition components (give it a tune up if it's been a while) so you'll have a "known" good ignition system. Have the auto parts store pull the codes to see what's in there, preferably without cutting the key off (some codes could clear if not preceded by a drive cycle, also depends on the scan tool). As far as gas mileage goes, driving conditions are usually the number one cause of low or lower than average mpg. More hills = less mileage, heavy foot = less mpg, engine problems = less mpg, having teenagers driving = a lot less mpg. If you have tools available, check compression (to ascertain overall engine condition) or fuel pressure. A fuel filter and air filter may help performance too. One last note on mpg is brakes, if they're sticking or binding (like rear shoes that are out of adjustment) that will kill mpg too.
yes, the van ran very well... until very recently. We have noticed more than a few stutters now when running from cold to warm up, especially. I was taking off from a stop sign and have noticed a quick jolt but no engine light. Occasionally my wife has noticed the same. Slight jolts when driving but no engine light. I have noticed some black carbon around the edges of the upper manifold seal? MY idea was to replace the upper manifold seal, injectors and plugs. I have not done a tuneup at all. I have not seen any other codes besides p420 and the EGR. Will the stutters show up in the codes without tripping the engine light? I run into Advance Auto and borrow their scanner frequently. I have replaced the water pump 20 k ago which I thought was the radiator cracked and I replaced that before the pump.
If the CEL(check engine light) doesn't illuminate you probably don't have codes. You could have pending codes. You'll need to get your hands on a scan tool that allows you to monitor a data list. You can check check trims(for vacuum leaks) and misfire monitors. Intermittent problems are the most difficult to isolate simply because they don't occur all the time so it takes a lot of driving and watching the scanner for glitches and errors in inputs from the sensors. It's always a good idea to keep a note pad too so you can keep a record of when and where you are when the problem occurs along with notes on ambient temperature or whether it was cold outside or raining. This will help narrow things down if their climate related. Or as an example if your hiccup occurs at the same stop sign exiting your neighborhood on your way to work it could be traction control/abs kicking in because it detected wheel spin or a tire tread depth variance.
Used parts will fail the fastest. As others mentioned, misfires and rich running engine will hurt the cat eventually and aftermarket cats are cheap in every way.
thank you for making this video. i will be replacing number 5 this weekend. as well as my computer. do you think that a blown injector could cause an overload and fry the comp? i have a guy to program just hoping not to burn up the new one. any insight would be helpful
Sean Reardon Anything is possible but I doubt it would take out the computer. I've seen an idle air control valve short a computer on a car but it doesn't happen often. Injectors are normally powered at all times when the car is on. The computer controls the ground path and pulses the injectors when it's ready for them to open(duty cycles them). To diagnose a problem with an injector I would confirm the miss is on that cylinder and that it's not related to an ignition problem(Assuming you have a P0305). With key on engine off check voltage at the connector, if you don't have voltage on either pin check another injector to be sure voltage is supplied with koeo (key on engine off), if you have voltage at the other injector you probably have an open power wire on #5. If you have a noid light you can just plug that in and start the car briefly(don't run on a misfire or it will kill the catalytic converter). If the noid light blinks you have power and ground signals(I bought my lights in a test kit). You can check resistance on an injector to test for shorted or open windings as well. Specifications shouldn't be too hard to track down online or compare to another good injector. I doubt you need a computer but I'd like to hear how it all turns out!
So that Was Injector #6 correct? I have a 05 T&C and getting injector circuit malfunction code AND WIRES ARE MELTED DOWN. SO SHOULD I REPLACE THE INJECTOR AND TAPE UP THE WIRES TOO?
tokenrow669 That's going to depend on a few factors. How far up the harness is melted? I've personally never seen an injector harness melt. You'll need to look for the root cause which is likely to be a short circuit on that line. Most injector systems get power at all times with the ignition on and the computer controls the ground which fires the injector. If there's a short to ground on either side it may be possible to overheat the wiring. Make sure all the grounds under hood are in proper places and still connected as power can back feed from other circuits. So I guess in short(added pun), the injector could be the only problem and you could make due with a little tape but there's a good chance there's a deeper problem to solve that would require a lot of time, questions, and possibly someone with experience. It's better to replace the wires than to just tape them so you don't have a problem with the tape peeling later. Good luck with it and let me know how it goes!
RaucousFlame the wires only about an inch or less melted and were touching so I spaced them out and taped them. The injector does have a slight twist(I mean very slight) if I twist it, is that normal or is it supposed to be locked" motionless " in place?
tokenrow669 The rubber o-rings will usually allow for motion. The injector should not be able to move up and down unless there is a bad o-ring. Side to side movement should be okay.
I'm having a hard time finding out where the fuel rail itself is because mine is leaking and they want $500+ to replace it so I'm trying to find a video on how it's fone
Kelly Klein the fuel rail gets exposed around 3:15 in this video. Same procedure as pulling the injectors as the injectors are attached to the fuel rail.
Thumbing through replies I see I missed this question. The easiest way is to check from the power train control module to the failed injector with the injectors unplugged. It isn’t common from what I’ve seen to have a wiring failure. Normally it’s the connector at the injector or the injector itself. Be wary of buying cheap injectors and don’t rule out a bad “new” injector. If it’s much more than injector or connector it’s going to be difficult to isolate down the broken wire or whether the pcm has failed.
How long does it take to replace a injector and reassemble it. I'm taking my van in bc I don't have all the tools... idk if you answer right away but some insight would be nice. Thxs n great video btw.
I had code po201 injector circuit malfunction - cylinder 1 And po301 cylinder 1 misfire detected. Mu van jerks as i gain speed. Shud i put some gas fuel antifreeze to see id its the gas? Help plz thxs.
Joey John-George thanks! Well the short answer is the fastest I’ve done one would be around an hour and a half. My memory is a bit foggy. But, there’s always a but..., by the industry labor standards the job should pay a tech about 3 hours, I’d have to look it up to be absolutely positive. So if a shop charges $100 an hour then the labor would be $300. The standards are in place to give businesses a timeframe that a normal average tech can get it done. Whether they’re new to the field or new to that particular vehicles system and it’s intended to protect the consumer from overcharging for work. So in that way some shops are cheaper because they charge less per hour and others can be cheaper if they use cheaper parts. Hope that helps!
Joey John-George fuel quality shouldn’t set that code. And if the gas was poor quality you should see a misfire on multiple cylinders(usually all of them). If the injector was clogged a fuel treatment could possibly help. P0201 is a control circuit malfunction and would include the injector, the wiring, and the Powertrain control module or PCM. Typically it’s the injector and can cause a burnt connector.
Start by removing the fuel pump fuse or relay. Start the vehicle and let it stall. Vent the gas tank by removing the cap briefly. And if there’s a test port on the fuel rail you can relieve the remaining pressure there(I can’t recall if these vans have one...). Otherwise, wear protective goggles or face shield and let the pressure escape when the fuel rail is disconnected from the fuel line. You can cover the line with a shop rag to avoid spray too.
@@simardssurveillancesystems8209 pull the fuse or relay to the fuel pump and run until it stalls, disconnect the battery so the pump can’t prime again, and cover the fitting with a shop rag as you disconnect it so it’s less likely to spray.
Hi sir, your video was very good, i have a question , at first I tho u was doing fuel injection harness on top replacing fuel injectors, have u ran into melting fuel inj wire harness ? I’m hearing these dodge/ Chrysler on melted wires , can cause car not starting and stalling and throw out false codes.. If they are melted how are u supposed to wrap them up with keep it from melting again? Do u need to re wrap or just plug in? like fuel injector? It really long story, I’ll try to short as much as I can.. got in parking lot and my van shut off, I try to start it and when let off the gas keep stalling.. There was a friend her bF try to get my car home it keep shut off when let off gas, he just kept it to floor .. My van keep stalling when trying to start it here codes : ignition coil 2 po352- coil 3 po353 ( I got coil pack) map sensor- I lost code remember it.. strange before my van stop working I unplug the map and it ran better, bought one didn’t change anything., Code- po 442 -,po401 EGR-changed ERG didn’t help, po403, po456,po455,…. Yes lots of codes went thu advance auto part store on reading codes… I tho maybe my coil pack was bad out of box exchange it now it won’t start at all.. oh forgot when trying to start it my heat/ air blower would auto turn on with it being on the off position….I really appreciate any help , suggestions.. thank u for ur time …
Sounds like you have a lot going on at one time. Start with the basics and set a baseline. Can you smell unburned fuel? If so, it may be flooded. Check for an rpm signal either via the tachometer or a scan tool/blue tooth device. If there’s no rpm reading you may have a bad crank sensor. Will it start if you add fuel, such as a squirt of throttle body spray, into the intake. If it starts when adding fuel then your not getting fuel and should look at the fuel supply system. There are a multitude of things that can cause these conditions. Check all the fuses and take note of any blown so you can trace those circuits if they are involved in powertrain control. As far as melted wiring or connectors. Yes, that happens sometimes when a component fails or the connector terminal get loose. Anytime you’re making a repair and disconnecting parts it’s wise to inspect for signs of heat damage. If only a connector is charred you can get a connector pigtail to replace it. If wiring is burned or melted you’d have to replace all of the wire that has been damaged or the harness. With so many possibilities you’ll have to take your time and narrow things down one system at a time. With a no start you check for spark, air, and fuel. Use the codes as a guide but look for the basics initially. It will help to jot down what you find and test to reference it again later and use the internet to your advantage. You can find many wiring diagrams and repair info floating around out there. Sites like alldatadiy.com (if I remember that correctly) offer a fee to access the information for one vehicle and can help a great deal. And be sure there’s no anti theft light on while cranking. Sometimes keys get magnetically altered or system components fail randomly causing anti theft systems to engage.
@@raucousflame2325hi sir, thanks for ur reply. No it not flooded, it starts sometimes but u got to keep the peddle on gas to keep it running and then I get gas smell .. but after taking off the ignition coil putting new one on it won’t start at all ..the last time I had it started the rpm was jumping…. The throttle body has been off and cleaned and sensor replaced..none of my fuses are being blown…I heard dodge vans are prone to melting…I’m trying to take plugs out now and 3 of them wasn’t gap right, had black wetness to one of them .. I forgot the codes I had from the key turn on dodges one of them diff then advanced auto code reader it has a po202 says 2 injector.. I’m got half of the screws off petium the thing u were taking off I can’t get 2 screws out in back one middle and the one on drive side , bcz the cowl thing is keeping the wrench to unscrew.. the pass side had more clearance… do I need take off PCV valve off too? I unhook the EgR hose and one part has black gritty gunk that looks plugged in hose can that cause issues? I appreciate ur help thanks for ur suggestions…
@@theresam8809 when taking the plenum off you may have to use extensions or swivels to access the back bolts. What model year is your van? Be sure to disconnect the battery and observe safety requirements when making your repair to avoid fuel spraying. P0202 is the injector code and indicates the injector or circuit has failed so once you get to the injector be sure to inspect the connector and wiring. Carbon plugging the egr ports will cause an insufficient flow code and affect emissions but shouldn’t cause stalling. The egr system can stall a vehicle if it is stuck on but it has to have enough flow rate to overwhelm the engine.
@@raucousflame2325 Hi, i tried long extensions but it still in way, my van 2001 it’s 3.3 v 6 sports .. yes sir I do disconnect the battery , but some people that has worked on my cars never do and since they mechanic, I don’t question it.. So that black stuff I wish could show u the pic but to me I’m shocked it didn’t choke system it don’t look like any air could get thru it so caked of it .. Could this cause black smoke from exhaust pipe? How do I clean it out with?? I allowed a random stranger at gas station Put on my new EGR without looking around the erg hoses and it was night and not much lite Why my car wouldn’t stay started tho that was problem I had a code for it bought one.. Should I put the old one back on ? Is there something special u do when putting a new one on? Sorry it just I never had issues like this with car most time it just basic stuff starter alternator batt and belts these new ones it so different.. when I can get to the wires harness if melted or not what type of stuff u wrap them back up with and how do I keep it from manifold?! I heard this is big issues on these idk why they didn’t recall it fix it…, thanks for trying to help me it very much appreciated…
@@theresam8809 the carbon blockage you have can be cleaned by picking it out with a screwdriver or pick tool while holding a vacuum close. You don’t want a lot of carbon falling out of reach if you can help it. Once there’s an opening you can spray it with cleaner and use a bottle brush or pipe cleaner to clear the remaining carbon. Use caution if the plug is on the exhaust side because if a catalyst gets fuel and air it may combust. For the wires, if they are shorted together and burnt you’ll have to cut out the bad wire and splice in new wire. If it’s at the connector you can just install a connector pig tail because connector pig tails come with six inches or so of wire. Heat from the engine can make wire insulation brittle but doesn’t cause melting without a short circuit. The two ways wires usually melt are arcing from lose terminals causing excessive heat and a change in resistance, like a bad injector, causing amperage to rise because voltage generally will remain constant. I would say it’s a good idea to use a high quality injector, ideally from the manufacturer, because you don’t want to go back in for the same repair twice and injectors have to remain strong during the field collapse that occurs when turning off and on. Most people don’t know but when the field collapses in an injector voltage spikes and it differs from vehicle to vehicle. I’ve heard some reach 150V and I’ve seen 100V on some I’ve tested.
We took ours to O'Reily's to get it checked and all we know is that Injector #4 is misfiring. We got the fuel injector but we're trying to figure out which one is #4...
If I remember correctly, off the top of my head, number four is center front. Closest cylinders to the radiator are 2/4/6. But when in doubt look up “firing order” or “cylinder identification” for your engine. I don’t think it’s ever been different on the 3.0 or 3.3 liter but it’s best to confirm rather than take it back apart. Another way to confirm, not necessarily the best way, is to pull the injector connector or coil connector for the cylinder and check the misfire code that sets(only use in a pinch and avoid prolonged misfires because they will damage the catalyst). Hope that helps!
cherry baby That was my Snap-On tools 1/4 inch drive air ratchet model number FAR25. It’s around 10-15 years old and has held up well. Depending on whether he has an air compressor or not you may consider a battery powered unit. Snap-On offers a great one of those because it’s pretty narrow and the closest I’ve seen to the size of my air ratchet. A 3/8 drive will also work for this particular job but it would be larger, although it provides more power. It should be noted that I don’t use them to tighten the intakes down. I switch to a torque wrench for that. Hope that helps.
cherry baby I went ahead and put a link in the description to the new and improved version of my ratchet. Seems it’s been switched to a solid body design with a cushion grip!
I have 08 grand caravan that gas a 1 fuel injection up close that is moving. It's possible for me to twist it around. Is all injectors suppose to be like that??
It is possible to turn an injector that is bolted down but it should not be easy. If it is easy to turn the seals may be bad or the rail may be loose. It may be easier to turn, if one of the valve covers are leaking oil on the injector. Normally a bad injector o-ring will set a lean code so if you have a check engine light on you should get the code or codes out of the system to isolate the problem. If you do not have a lean code and the engine is running normally without any misfires I would leave it alone 😁 no more injector spinning for you!
Joey John-George check the bottles for any with Techron. I believe that’s the best detergent choice for additives. Additionally if you can get some BG44K they have detergents and conditioners in that being similar and the product works incredibly well. www.bgprod.com/ for information. BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDVU6EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fWeaBbZHJJJSR Available on Amazon.
Joey John-George with 44k you fill your tank, run it down below 1/4 tank, fill up and repeat. You’ll still have product in the tank that will continue to clean through a third refueling as I’ve been told.
As far as I recall, on the town and country, the egr (if equipped) is a solenoid mounted to the cylinder head by the alternator. Check the emissions label under hood to confirm that van came with one(if someone did an engine swap or changed the powertrain control module it may be a false code). Depending on the scan tool being used it could be a false code as well. I believe the egr switched from vacuum operated to solenoid in the late 90’s but going more than a few days back gets a bit fuzzy sometimes 🤣
Be sure you replaced the o-rings. Lubricate them with some gasoline just before you reinstall the injector. Make sure the clips are in place. Most domestic vehicles have retaining pins or clips that hold the injector to the rail. You may want to pull the fuel rail off or use a mirror to inspect the rail for cracks or damage. The top o-ring is where gas will leak and the bottom(if bad) will set lean codes and turn on the check engine light. Hope that helps!
You can look up cylinder identification or firing order for your vehicle. As Billy said, and as far as my memory serves me, Chrysler has placed 1-3-5 near the firewall of most of their front wheel drive engines. Even though I don’t remember it ever being different I always look it up for every vehicle I work on. Cause it’s a pain when you think you’ve got it down and you replace the wrong injector 🤣
Residual fuel pressure will remain in the system after disabling the fuel pump. The vehicle should start and then stumble and stall out after removing the fuel pump fuse or relay. If it doesn’t, chances are the pump isn’t disabled.
How much would it cost me to get something like this fixed? Cause if its not a spark plug like I'm hoping then this is the only other reason I've found for the van constantly throbbing and I dont know if I can afford it but I dont know what will happen if I wait another few weeks before being able to get it fixed
Sorry for the delay but here goes... It’s difficult to say for sure. There are many variables, from shop rates, to which labor manual is used, to age of vehicle and cost rises if anything breaks, is seized, stuck or otherwise goes wrong(as long as it’s out of the tech’s control). So the older a vehicle gets the more it “can” cost to repair. But just to give everyone an idea, labor times vary between manuals(and sometimes by a lot) so we’ll say on average 3 to 3.5 hours labor, gaskets, and a fuel injector would average around $600. Based on $100/hour labor(dealers near me charge $130 and most independents charge between $90-$100 per hour). An injector is usually $150-$200(don’t hold me to that as parts are variable too) and gaskets may be as much as $50. That’s if things go normal and there are no problems. If you’re not sure what’s wrong it’s best to pay for a diagnostic. It’s always wise to find a reputable shop and work with someone you can trust.
@@raucousflame2325 well we don't think its that. Now we think its the motor mount or something that is causing the van the vibrate furiously usually when stopped. Then sometimes when accelerating
@@raucousflame2325 it hasn't yet and whenever I first start it and drive right after it'll seem to have trouble continously accelerating for about 10 minutes then something will start popping a few times then it runs sort of fine. Atleast acceleration wise. I've been leaving it running whenever I'm about to go to work and it won't do that once I leave
@@Codamans if the check engine light doesn’t blink it means the computer control system has not detected a misfire that is bad enough to cause catalyst failure(which doesn’t take much of a misfire). I would recommend checking transmission fluid level and checking for transmission leaks. Maybe run by a parts store and ask to have the codes read but not cleared(parts stores love to clear them in order to be of service to a customer and that can cause problems with diagnostics if a technician looks at it later. The computer will save freeze frame data with many codes that can help diagnose a condition. ) Low transmission fluid level can act in a similar fashion as the transmission/transaxle warms the fluid expands slightly and may then shift normally. If your van is not equipped with a dipstick you can buy a test dipstick from the parts store, they come with directions for checking the fluid by temperature. If you don’t have a scanner that tells you temperature you can establish a baseline by checking it before running the vehicle and base the volume on atmospheric temperature. This may only work properly if overnight temperature is close to the temperature band(low range) provided with the dipstick. Hope that helps a bit.
I have a 2010 town and country. Well I had a injector 2 staying open code. It was running very horrible and it smelled like fuel. I took it to a shop and had the injector replaced. When the work was done I drove home but only half way home it did the same problem again. Well before I left I noticed the check engine still on. I went back to the mecanic and he replaced it again. Drove off and same thing happened. He referred me to an electrical mecanic. I found 1 and 1 day later he fixed the problem. It was the harness that had built up corrosion. I noticed the code was gone and 100 times better. However it still has a slight hesitation when I drive . I asked this mecanic and he assured me everything is fine but to drive it like that until a code comes on. I don't know what else to do. What might anyone suggest?
Ross Morales you can try disconnecting the battery to clear memory. Leave it disconnected for about ten minutes to give the computers time to “reset”. Once you restart it you may find the idle is a little off but after it warms up you can cut it off and restart it again. This should relearn idle control. When you first drive it after a battery reset it may also shift funny for a little while. The power train control will relearn shift patterns too so try not to accelerate rapidly or you’ll teach it bad habits (heavy throttle raises line pressure and shifts harder). One other thing you can try is a high quality gasoline and some cleaner additive to remove any potential deposits that could cause these kind of problems.
@@raucousflame2325 I had the hood opened earlier and noticed that the harnesses that connects to the throttle body and intake manifold isn't in good shape due to the heat coming from the exhaust manifold. I am thinking about replacing that harness but don't know how challenging it would be.
Ross Morales if the corrugated tuning is brittle I would call that normal and not replace anything. If wires are melted you will need to repair or replace and wire harnesses are time consuming and can be difficult. They usually connect everything on the engine and transmission. If required I would generally repair and route the wires rather than replace a whole harness.
Titus1221 it sure did! You can get several different codes for the same failure so it was just listed as a replacement. Some people get an injector code directly, some get a misfire code. I thought it was more useful as how to replace than going into a diagnostic detail.
Luzzz Sendiss you can usually find it on the internet by searching for firing order for the particular year of vehicle. If that doesn’t lead to good results you can try cylinder layout or identification. If I remember correctly(I don’t commit these things to memory anymore because I work on many makes and models) cylinders 1,3,5 are on the firewall side and 2,4,6 are by the radiator. Be sure to double check that against your particular vehicle though. (One quick tip: if you do a google search look into the images for fastest results)
Louis Demasson I'll keep my eyes peeled for one but there's not often a regulator that goes bad on the pump. If there's pressure bleeding down, or not enough pressure, it's usually wear on the pump or possibly an electrical condition. Sorry I didn't see your question earlier. Looks like it's time to upgrade the phone so my notifications work again... I'd like to hear how it turns out so drop me comment when you sort it out!
Hi again sorry for not getting back sooner. What I eventually found out was it was my fuel pump which is in the tank so I had to drop my tank and replace the fuel pump. It was a bit of a chore since I don't have a lift .I used a floor jack and stands. It was a good learning experience for me. I got it back together it runs fine. Tks.
Hope the fuel pump is my problem also..... Replaced the cylinder head, fuel injectors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, MAP sensor, TPS, and Fuel injector harness that was stiff and some wires were melted together and after all that I am still have misfiring issues. Only thing left to do is the fuel filter and fuel pump in the tank. Just hope it's not the PCM.
Pull the fuel pump fuse and run it until it stalls, then crank it a bit more. Cover any connections with a rag when you remove the lines or injector and wear safety glasses or face shield to avoid any possible spray. The fuel rail will still have fuel present and it will drip/run out on you and the floor so have some towels or a container ready to protect painted surfaces.
In 20 years time the ICE will be in the museum like the steam engine, and dudes will see your historic video and say "holy moley those old dudes had a devil of a time working on those old crappy ice vehicles" I kindof flipped to EV's after i put a 20 pound EV kit on a 20 pound bike and got a motorbike that overtakes scooters on the hill climb, at 0.3 cents a mile.
Best Electronic Music From New Geniuses I’m honestly surprised that everything has not been powered by a hybrid power train over the last few years. With the availability of EV technology as advanced as it is, as shown by Tesla, we should see further competition in the coming years. I look forward to new inspiring technology but part of me cringes at the thought of both procuring parts(mainly cost) and the requirement to “learn” the new trade 🤣
There’s a number of signs that can point toward a failed or failing injector. Primarily a check engine light, the computer control runs a self test on the circuit and will generally illuminate the light. Other signs could be things like a misfire on startup, a misfire at all times, increased fuel consumption, repeat catalyst failures, maybe even fuel trim diagnostic codes. But generally the computer control will pickup the failure and set the light before you realize there’s a problem.
@@williamcarswell1343 it could be but it’s hard to say without seeing it first hand. The easiest way to test an engine mount is to hold the brake and load the engine in gear. It’s best to block the wheels and set the parking brake for safety. If it clunks in drive the front mount is weak, broken, or out of adjustment. If it does so in reverse it’s the rear. Technicians pair up for this test and one will watch the mount while the other loads it up. This test can be dangerous standing in front of the vehicle so it would be advised to take it to a shop to have it checked. Other things that can shift are transmission mounts, subframe bushings, brake components, and drive axles. There are plenty other things too but these are more common than others. Ignition components can, under certain conditions, give you a bump/clunk under load that feels like a loose mount or even a torque converter shudder. Just be sure to start with basics if chasing a drive ability problem. Things like a defective battery can cause a multitude of conditions and both ruin hours of diagnostics and appear as a different condition.
Well that depends on the bolts. I can spin a bolt out using an extension and fingers faster than the air ratchet as long as it’s not rusted or binding. Loosen with the ratchet and then spin the extension with the fingers. But the main thing to remember is it isn’t about speed. It’s about accuracy. If you have to do the job twice with an air ratchet but once by hand you’re saving time using hand tools. Saving money too 👍
Honestly I can’t remember to save my life… I’ll have to see if I have the video files on the computer. I want to say 02-03 but don’t hold me to it. It was intended as a quick overview, without torque specs and deep details, to help people visualize what they may encounter. We’re you thinking of tackling such a job? What kind of problem are you having? Fuel smell, misfire, that nasty check engine light the wife/husband can’t stand?
@@raucousflame2325 actually i was driving my 05 caravan and its ran great since ive gotten it. Ive done regular maintenance, also changed the CPS, Radiator and hoses, new battery, new water pump, now wires and ignition coil. Anyways i was driving and it just died. Then wouldnt start back up. Happened a week ago. Im stumped. I think it might either be a wiring short from corrosion or PCM failure. I already tested the fuel pump it was spraying strong out od the main supply that connects into fuel rail. Just really weird
@@Dbjjr26 a buddy of mine had an intermittent stall condition, almost caused him to get hit once, that i isolated to the ignition key switch. I checked a few things and decided to look at the key switch itself having heard a couple makes would stall because of it. His was newer than yours and had a plastic key fob. But sure enough I could jiggle the key(fob assembly) and cause it to shut off. I would recommend looking into that. On his, I could pull on the key and it would cut off. It’s electronic on the newer models and although it does not mechanically actuate anything, the result was pulling the key caused the key module to send the off signal to the network and the other modules heard the signal to power off. It didn’t set any diagnostic codes if I remember correctly because the vehicle assumed it was a command from the driver. Now, those ignition switches (modules) require programming and I believe the part and programming was about $500. You’ve done excellent to clear away the basics battery foremost(make sure the terminals are in good repair and make solid contact), ignition and fuel supply. I would recommend trying to get diagnostic codes before removing the battery terminals(pulling power will clear diagnostic data but the newer vans, starting around 2016-17 I believe store permanent codes). If anything else comes to mind I’ll drop another long winded message haha!
@@Dbjjr26 before I get ahead of myself… like I just did… be sure to check all your fuses. Proceed with a normal diagnostic pattern for crank no start, I’m assuming it cranks. You can get an inexpensive spark tester to confirm you’re getting fire to the plugs, noid lights are usually inexpensive and can be used to check the exposed injectors for signals( you can use a test light as well but you have to hook the ground and tip to each injector terminal carefully so as not to touch one another, aka if you ground from the battery you’ll create a short circuit that could blow fuses or damage the pcm driver circuit as pcm ground side switches), ideally you’d want a bidirectional scan tool(allows you to active test and command computer controlled circuits on and off) but you’ll definitely want to scan all the computers to make sure you don’t have a theft fault(shouldn’t cause a stall but could cause a crank no start) pr a network communication issue. Now I’ll go ponder other possibilities.
@@raucousflame2325 hey man long winded the better. Im stumped honestly i rewent through it going to change the spark plugs and look under thr relay box for corrosion. Im balling on a budget right now so that 500.00.part doesnt sound.too fun to buy tbh. I own this vehicle.though and it hasnt really given me any major problems i couldnt fix before. Usually ran strong. Someone else mentioned the fob possibility. My ignition switch seems solid though on and off cant pull the key out or anything and i pulled the cover from under the steering wheel and nothing appeared to be out of sorts. The electronic aspect of it though aka the key fob itself which puts the alarm on may be another thing ill examine and possibly replace. Shitty part is its actually part of the key itself that may be a dealer job to pay for which would suck
Holy Christ, its very involved. You got to take lots of stuff off just to get at them and than you have to torque the intake back down in a specific pattern, ugh.
It’s not bad. Just take pictures while you’re taking it apart so you don’t have to spend a ton of energy memorizing. Organize the bolts in a pattern, put them in a row or something as it comes off.
Here’s some good news for removing the power steering reservoir and that WRETCHED 10mm nut that nobody can find: You need only loosen it, rather than remove the nut entirely! Why in thunder did anybody ever think mounting the nut in the backside of the reservoir was a good idea????? Sheesh!
Thanks for the insight. I may add something to the end when I have a chance. It was intended as a guideline as opposed to a how to video in order to keep it short. Just to show what you have to do in order to access the part and replace it. I always reference shop materials or do a google search because differences in model year will affect the torque spec’s. Since it is a broad spectrum video I didn’t include torque specs so that those differences wouldn’t affect the outcome of an individual repair. But I definitely agree it would be helpful and when I have some time I will compare model years to check for differences.
This is one of the best videos on how to do a task that I have ever seen! Well laid out and not overly long.
This is BY FAR the best "how to" video for this year and engine. Thank you so much for posting this. It really can be an easy job when you have a pro like you sitting how it's done. Amazing!
I know this video has been out for a while, but I’ve only just come across it. It is extremely well done, and I’m very impressed with how you did the whole tear down with just one hand!
Joe Leonard thank you. It was a slow day at work! I haven’t seen much of a slow day since then!
Thank you I really appreciate videos like this quick and straight to the point.
Guys like you make the world a better place. Thanks brother
Thanks for the great video! It was a tremendous help. Gave me the confidence to handle this job on a 3.8L Town and Country. For your viewers: I found no valve near or on the fuel rail to relieve fuel pressure on my vehicle. I removed the fuel relay and started the van to relieve the pressure. Only takes a few seconds and works well.
Jurgen Mootz thank you. I’m glad it was helpful and I believe doing things for oneself builds character. It’s good to hear from you.
You mean started the van first, then pulled the relay with it running?
Looks like a simple enough job. I'll get to it on my '01 T&C. I'm having misfire problems. Thanks for the tutorial, good sir.
Wow good video. I can tell you’ve done this numerous times. Quick and to the point. I have to do this same repair on the same engine this week.
Same. I am doing it within the next few days. Great Video.
Great video I am a mechanic HVAC but I've worked a lot of tight places this video was informative and makes it a lot easier thanks
great video, you explained everything without taking up time. You saved me MONEY!
Well thanks to this video I fixed my injecter on my 08 chrysler town and country today and saved a ton of money
Thanks for posting this video! While my 2008 Town and Country isn't exactly the same engine layout, the basic info in your video was enough to get me going to change the #2 injector that was causing a P0202 code. After changing the injector the van now runs great again.
dave mcddd Awesome! I can't recall ever getting a P0202 out of any car, truck or van. Normally a vehicle misfires and you have to spend a lot of time diagnosing whether it's ignition, fuel or mechanically related. Congratulations on your repair!
The computer set a P0202 code because it was seeing an unexpected resistance of the injector #2 circuit. In this case the #2 injector coil measured as an open circuit instead of the usual 12 ohms. I was fully expecting to find a loose connection or a wiring problem, but it was indeed a burned out injector coil that was causing the problem.
Nicely done bro! Quick and easy, well laid out and explained
Jonathan Kuhn thanks! Good luck on your project!
Thanks so much. . . .Clear, concise, good visuals!
This video is so much helpful an I was about to get charged crazy money an this saved my life an pockets thanks you guys great help
Hot damn, this was great. Thanks you for the straight forward, clearly filmed walk through. I noticed though you mention releasing the fuel pressure, but didn't explain how one might do that. I hope it something easy. I'll google how, but others might be lost with that. haha.
Thanks again! This is great!
bud herz there are multiple ways to bleed pressure off the system. Every manufacturer is different but it usually entails opening the fuel cap to relieve pressure in the tank. Then if there’s a schrader valve you could connect a gauge (or just poke it with a screw driver with a rag over both to prevent spraying oneself in the face), but the proper way would be to remove the fuse or relay from the fuel pump circuit, start the vehicle and let it stall, then turn it over a bit more and voila little to no fuel pressure remains. At which point you can cover the lines as you disconnect them to avoid any residual pressure. Most fuel systems are designed to maintain pressure for a limited period of time with check valves in the pump in order to avoid extended cranking times after shut off and injectors are normally closed but if you let the vehicle sit overnight it should have little to no pressure left because it can and will bleed down. Plus it’s generally cooler in the mornings and would be a better time to work on it. It would be advisable to disconnect the battery before removing the lines so no one comes along and decides to check the time or turn on the radio while you’re working on it as well. Murphy’s law always applies!
RaucousFlame THANKS!
Disable fuel pump by pulling relay or fuse then start engine til dies and repeat 2x before starting job. Reinstall relay or fuse when done with job
Guys, I understand what you're saying about removing the fuel pressure, however, we've already disconnected the battery and actually have the engine apart to where we are ready to remove the fuel rail
Also how much force will be needed to remove the fuel rail? I have removed the 4 bolts and tried to lift the fuel rail, but it won't budge
Clayton Joiner I’m sorry I missed this. It takes a good amount of force to unseat a fuel rail especially after it’s been in use for years. Wiggling the rail a bit while applying pressure is usually enough to get the rail out. Hopefully this late response helps anyone else puts that has the same question as I’m quite a few days late and probably even more dollars short.
Nice. If only I could do all that in 6 minutes. Nice explanations.
Excellent video.. I have a 2008 saying #5 mis fire I've changed the coil it was not the problem as I was told the rough idle is still there and the code keeps saying mis fire on #5 cylinder so now I'll be be changing the fuel injecter thanks to this video it makes it easier
Did that fix it? I've got 08 t and c and p0202 misfire cylinder 3 is showing and fuel injector is recommended fix.
Lame he didn't reply. Geez people
This video has been a great help to me thank you
Very clear and
easy your explanation. Thanks.
Great video. I wish you ( and almost every video I see) would spend more time with the electrical connections and how they UNLOCK! I have just spent a 1/2 hour trying to see how to get the electrical connection off behind the throttle body. You just slid your hand in there and gave it a tug and off it came. I can't just lever it off and destroy it. I'm absolutely "dead in the water". oh, that breather hose you just pulled off, mine has factory clamps on it and the only way for me to get it off is cut it into and order a new one at the dealer, I have no tool that will undo those factory clamps. The rest of the nuts and bolts are pretty straight forward and you did a great job. but the one little connector is probably going to send this job to the dealer. arrrgh
Sorry about that! Thank you for the insight too. Doing this work everyday you kind of get into a groove and don’t think about how a lot of it works. I’ll bear that in mind with any future videos I do. Domestic connectors mostly operate off a hinged system. You depress a tab and it lifts off the locking tab. Sometimes the rubber seals stick and cause the connectors to feel stuck as well. There are a couple options when stuck there. You can unbolt the throttle body to pivot it in order to see the connector or unbolt the throttle body and remove the plenum separately leaving the throttle body resting out of the way. I’ve also been know to grab the wife’s mirror when I can’t find any of mine and use it to get a good look behind stuff. Sometimes I use a right angle pick or pocket screwdriver to lift the tab when I pull difficult connectors. Hope that helps a bit!
Oh and you may be able to take the breather tube lose from the plenum and rotate it on the valve cover even if it has a clamp.
@@raucousflame2325 That's what I did..................... I just removed the TB from the air box and left all the connector plugged in . Thanks for your prompt reply, I could have just as easily still been here sobbing in my hands 🤣
Best automotive tutorial video on UA-cam
I’m sick of waiting for a new video
Please sir
🤣 I’ll try to get something together soon
Great video. Thanks for sharing
Very clear. Very well done. Thanks
Excellent video!!
Gonna give this a shot once I test for spark on my '06 T&C. Replaced all plugs and wires but still misfiring. Gotta find a way to test that distributer as well before I go tearing into stuff.
Your 06 is going to have a distributor less ignition system. The coil pack could be bad but you’ll have to assess the diagnostic trouble codes. If there’s a multi-cylinder misfire the coil pack is likely, if it’s a single cylinder it could be the fuel injector or harness/connector. Good luck with it!
@Tyrell Williams glad to hear it’s running right! One thing to watch for with coil defects are arc marks and cracks. They aren’t always present but you can usually judge condition by checking for these signs(as long as you can get a mirror and some light on the coil). Specs are available online for primary and secondary winding resistances if you have a multimeter available. Resistance is a decent reference point for catching bad windings inside the coil pack(any coil, motor, or winding for that matter. Injectors have windings that can be checked this way).
AWESOME VIDEO. GONNA REPLACE THE STRUTS ON MINE
Thank you! Good luck with the struts! Should be pretty smooth sailing on those 👍
Yeah I really like your video you do very good recording very good detail and what's going on I learned a lot just watching a couple of your videos and subscribe to you and please keep going and thank you very much
Richard Castillo I’ve had plans to do some more videos. Thanks for for your support I’ll try to do something soon 👍
Bought the van w/no problems .. change the oil and notice smell of Gas(never seen that before) came here and now omw to the store to pick up the the injectors fingers crossed 60bucks
Any luck with your van? Sometimes worn piston rings or failed PCV valves can pool fuel in the oil. Another thing is additives that can be poured into the crankcase.
@@raucousflame2325 doing it as we speak
Alset ..took everything apart put all all back , misfire 5 .. got new spark plug now we are back on the road (also had to get new pcv valve.. to get it out easier way try to remove top pice of gasket then grab needle nose pliers (or something strong) grab hole wiggle out then grab a tiny tiny screw driver and peel the rest out (may not look like anything in there but it is ..
Thank u very well explained
Thank you so much about your video is help me a lot ihave same car and ineed to replace injection
Great video! Just what I needed. Thanks!
Buen video 👍
Thanks for the info
Very good one
Tks
Do you have an EGR delete plate on that intake? Mine is an 08 Town and Country with a long metal EGR tube on it. I’m going to replace all my injectors with new ones, hoping it will clear up my 0206 and 0306 codes. I’ve replaced the cam, crank, and MAP sensors already as well.
I wanted to thank you for the informative video, it’s great and I sure learned a lot by watching. Really appreciate your work, sir
Big Italy 455 thanks for the feedback! This particular year didn’t appear to have the egr on it. Manufacturers sometimes skip years with devices like egr depending on whether they pass emissions tests without them. “If it can be deleted it saves the manufacturer money in the long run and gets removed, makes the vehicles a little more cost effective”. But on topic, if you delete it you will usually get a code for lack of egr flow (egr insufficient) or fuel trims get weird and set codes like p0171 or something like. One other thing to bear in mind is that misfires can occur at varying intervals, sometimes under light load, heavy load, cruise speed, at idle, in or out of gear etc. that’s what can make them very hard to isolate. Try to isolate when it happens (duplicate) then track the rascal down by making changes (like swapping coils or plugs). Hope that helps a bit. Sounds like your on the right track by the codes and you’ve probably already fixed it!
Wow. If I have mine done.
I'm gettin a mech to do it!
Good video
Excellent video, I've been wondering about my 2000 Caravan 3.3 occasionally throughout the day it would take longer to start and would shudder/shake a little till engine catches idling rpm. Then at a red stoplight the idling would creep down to 550 rpm. Then when turning off engine, it "feels" like it's dieseling for a second??? No check engine lights. Any thoughts or suggestions?
TinyTim it sounds like the throttle plate may be dirty and sticking. First thing I would try is to clean the throttle body and disconnect the battery to see if it will relearn the idle with a clean plate. I can’t recall off the top of my head if it requires a scanner to relearn but most domestics do not.
From beginning to end, how long should the job take if you have the injectors to replace them with?
Also, other than plugs, ignition wires, air filter, what else should one consider replacing while they have the top of the motor open like that?
I would allow 4-5 hours in case you run into a problem. I believe labor time for a mechanic is about 3 hours, maybe 3.5, but don’t hold me to that. It would be a good time to clean the throttle body and maybe spray the valves if you want to go the extra mile. Generally speaking you don’t see a lot of buildup on intake valves unless it’s direct injected, which this van isn’t. If you’re suspicious of a connector issue it would be a good idea to have an injector connector on hand as well.
Great video, so these 3.8 engines don't have a fuel injector test port valve? I saw the rail end at 6:11. I only see a quick disconnect fitting no valve.
chvydrptop as far as I recall I don’t think they use a pressure test port. It’s pretty common across the board to have to use a T connector out of a pressure test kit to test fuel pressure. A newer mode vehicle may have a data list item for fuel pressure accessible via scan tool, but aside from that you could make a fitting to T the line if you have an old fuel rail and some rubber hose(it would be advisable to use a tool built for the job however so nothing goes wrong since you’re dealing with fuel).
That's my Dad.
Thanks!
Thank you
thank you for a nice video ! and all your commenting on what is what. where can i find torque specifications ?
The cheapest way to find torque specs is to google it. Sometimes they’re easier to find as an image. If you do your own repairs often I would recommend paying for access on alldata.diy or another reputable site. I used them for my own vehicles when I’m away from my work computer. The benefit there is you’ll have access to the same repair information that shops use as well as all the torque specs for each job. Hope that helps!
question.. I have 07 town and country. in the morning start after I wait about 10 mins for van to warm up during cold weather as I'm going in a few seconds driving and as I let go of gas pedal I then try to give gas again and it hardly won't Rev up like if the gas line is clog but no check engine is on. from there all day van is ok. what could it be? help
carlos Mendoza There are a lot of things that can affect the drive ability particularly on cold days. If the vehicle isn't in closed loop, when computer control takes over using the sensors, then it defaults to saved values. A couple easy tests you could try at home would be cleaning your throttle body and disconnecting the battery to clear some of the learned values. Your transmission may shift differently until it relearns and the idle may be low or high. Since there's so much involved in computer control it's hard to go into much detail. Make sure you are using a good gas from a station that sees a lot of traffic. You need a "known" good ignition system so if you haven't had a tuneup in a while you could change ignition parts. Finally, check the transmission level and condition. You'll have to do a little leg work but don't get frustrated. Have your local auto parts store check the charging system for good measure as voltage drop throws the computers off.
Nice video man. Quick question. Should i replace all 6 or just the one is miss firing? I have the same code. I replaced the coil pack ,wires, plugs and still miss firing cylinder 6.
I would only do the one injector unless I found a fault with the others. Though you could treat it like insurance against the fault occurring again, it is not necessary to do all six. I have never seen the same vehicle return with a second injector failure. On my own vehicle I would do one and then just do the next if it goes bad, when it goes bad. Might as well keep some money in the pocket. 👍
I need help nothing I have fits on the bolt in the back without hitting the top is there away to get more room to get my wrench in the back.
car Higgins I would say do what works best for you anytime you work on something. So the first thing to do is to try to turn your ratchet to the firewall with just the socket on it and reach behind, there should be enough room to get in there. If that doesn’t work try a wrench, a gear wrench is usually the easiest to maneuver in tight places but if you take your time any box end wrench should make it work. Finally if all else fails you could attempt to make a tool that fits(by bending one or cutting one off) or go by a set of swivel sockets or extensions that will allow you to get in there. Hope that helps! If your stuck try to think outside the box.
The Routan cranks in the a lot before it turns on and after I pump the accelerator peddle a few times but after that it turns on and runs well could this be fuel injections??
It could be a lot of things. It sounds like fuel pressure is bleeding down and has to build pressure before it starts. If you have a misfire on startup I would suspect the injector. Otherwise it’s likely to be a fuel pump problem. Check for diagnostic trouble codes and trouble shoot from there. If none are found you will have to start with a baseline of some sort like a fuel pressure test and go from there. Make sure it is not due for a tune up and hopefully it will be something easy!
How do I release fuel pressure before doing this?
@Richard Sendejas remove fuel pump relay and crank the engine before you start
@Richard Sendejas could have gotten bad parts, could be wiring, could be bad driver at pcm. You need some advanced tools or take it to a shop thats competent
Do you have to always disconnect the battery? I have seen a lot of mechanics leave the cables on
No you do not have to. But from a point of safety you should. If you have a wiring problem that short circuits it could potentially create a spark and cause a fire. You also never know when somebody will happen along and either crank the engine or turn the key on to “listen to the radio.” Removing the battery cables eliminates stupid mistakes (particularly from others) from happening. On a side note however, the computer control system will “learn” fuel trims and idle speeds even when misfiring and running rough. Removing the battery cables will (on most vehicles) trigger a relearn and clear diagnostic trouble codes.
Nice vid bro! You made inserting the fuel rail and injectors into the manifold bores look easy. So how come I am having a really hard time getting the injectors and rail to line up into the 6 bores on my 07 Caravan 3.8. I had to replace the O rings because of fuel leak at 3 injectors. I ended up putting new O rings on all 6 injectors but for life of me, I am having a hard time lining up the injectors attached to the rail into the intake manifold bores without putting a lot of muscle squeezing all 6 injectors close together. When I do manage to get all the injectors seated, bolt down the fuel rail, and energize the fuel pump I get a massive leak from the rail. I pull the rail off and find out the new injectors O rings at the top end to the rail are distorted from forcing the rail/injectors into the manifold bores. After 3 tries at this, I am at the end of my rope. Do you have any suggestions? Please help me.
Mike Garcia try to “lubricate” the o-rings with some fuel just before installing them. You’ll want to avoid dropping dirt into the injector holes but it is easiest if the ports are clean and have a light coating of fuel inside them as well. You can use a nylon bore cleaner to ease clearing the ports and it may help to hold a vacuum close as you clean the holes Avoid silicon (damages oxygen sensors) and oil (rots rubber). Install the injectors into the fuel rail first and then set the assembly onto the intake. Try starting one side first if they don’t want to go at the same time and I usually “wiggle” the rail in a circular motion to help walk the o-rings into place. And finally... confirm you were given the proper o-rings for the year, make, model, and engine size because manufacturers occasionally use different thicknesses on different engines. If all else fails you could get the o-rings directly from the dealer if in doubt.
RaucousFlame I read a piece on community car talk highly recommending silicone lube; but you recommend gasoline to lube the O rings? I will try gasoline then. I bought new O rings from NAPA and they matched near perfect in thickness with the old OEMs. I will certainly try the fuel rail circular motion when trying to insert the other side. It was in the 40s here in Denver when I was trying to insert the fuel rail and injectors into the bores; do you think it might have been too cold? Anyway, thank you for responding quickly to my plea for help, and I'll keep you updated when I give it another try this weekend in the 50s. Thanks Bro!
Mike Garcia truth be told you could probably use anything you want to aid the installation but they all have drawbacks. Silicon can damage oxygen sensors but that depends on quantity used, oil deteriorated rubber over time and becomes thick and sticky from heat and can make disassembly difficult and messy if you have to go back in later, fuel works well because it provides lubrication for a short time and evaporates plus the o-rings were made for the fuel system and even if you use too much(so to speak) it will not cause any problems dripping into the cylinder heads. Temperature can play a large part in the difficulty and I hadn’t thought about that. Cold parts are much less flexible as well as cold fingers! Good luck on the next go, you can do it! Perseverance will pay off and the gratification you’ll get is worth a little headache.
RaucousFlame : Solved my issue with injectors/fuel rail install. The original fuel rail I suspected might be slightly warped, so I paid 150 bucks for a new one from a Dodge dealer. Today (Saturday), I installed the new fuel rail and new O rings and the assembly dropped into the manifold bores smooth as slicing butter! No more fuel leaks and my caravan 3.8 runs like a dream! Who woulda' thought the fuel rail would warp over time. Lesson learned for me. Thanks for helping out, especially with the type of O ring lube. I used gas as lube.
Mike Garcia that’s fantastic! I’ve been doing repair work for almost 25 years and that may be a first for me, I’m going to put that in the memory bank. 👍
Hopefully you have a moment to shed some ideas on my CAT issue. I have a huge problem with my 06 TC burning up cats for the last couple of years. This started at about 50k miles. I'm on my 4th cat at 118k. The shop keeps replacing the cat under warranty but something toasting them. Money is tight in my situation and the shop doesn't want to troubleshoot the problem thoroughly. They just slap on another no charge. A quick history about the van. I picked up the 06 TC from carmax at 32k miles. Engine light came on, of course, after warranty was up. EGR sensor bad. Replaced it from advanced auto, easy. Engine light gone. No error codes since about EGR. The engine light started coming on at about 50k miles. P420. Comes on for a day half day. Goes off for a few weeks. Slowly, the light comes on and off more frequently then solid after 7-12 months. Replaced the OEM cat and both sensors. Engine light off for 7-8 months then starts slowly come on and off again. Then solid after about a year. Repeating this process, again, on the 4th cat. I've read and had another opinion from and SAE tech that the injector seals might be bad dumping too much fuel in and overheating the cats. He noticed a heavy fuel smell from the rear. nothing under the hood. We noticed small rubber?, plastic? fragments at the base of the manifold. Not sure what that's from? Seals? Another note is that the fuel mileage is not very good. 16.5 to 17 at max. This should get close to 22 on open road? Open road trips and around town the same fuel economy. Any ideas? Thanks for any help.
Does the vehicle run well? Misfires are usually the cause of catalyst failure. Now there are a lot of variables to break down with a problem like this. Check for any exhaust leaks, particularly near the oxygen sensors. Leaks will cause a drop in back pressure and throw off the fuel trims. Do you have any other DTC's? Too much fuel entering the catalyst will cause it to overheat rapidly and degrade, which is why misfires kill catalysts. If you have a problem losing coolant(these vans like to leak at the water pump and intake) then occasional misfires from overheating could be the culprit. If a oxygen sensor fails it should illuminate the check engine light, same for injector seals (it would throw off the fuel trims and set codes). A faulty injector could potentially leak fuel into the cylinder but should be notable as a misfire on cold starts and under certain driving conditions. I would start with an overall visual inspection of the exhaust system and the ignition components (give it a tune up if it's been a while) so you'll have a "known" good ignition system. Have the auto parts store pull the codes to see what's in there, preferably without cutting the key off (some codes could clear if not preceded by a drive cycle, also depends on the scan tool). As far as gas mileage goes, driving conditions are usually the number one cause of low or lower than average mpg. More hills = less mileage, heavy foot = less mpg, engine problems = less mpg, having teenagers driving = a lot less mpg. If you have tools available, check compression (to ascertain overall engine condition) or fuel pressure. A fuel filter and air filter may help performance too. One last note on mpg is brakes, if they're sticking or binding (like rear shoes that are out of adjustment) that will kill mpg too.
yes, the van ran very well... until very recently. We have noticed more than a few stutters now when running from cold to warm up, especially. I was taking off from a stop sign and have noticed a quick jolt but no engine light. Occasionally my wife has noticed the same. Slight jolts when driving but no engine light. I have noticed some black carbon around the edges of the upper manifold seal? MY idea was to replace the upper manifold seal, injectors and plugs. I have not done a tuneup at all. I have not seen any other codes besides p420 and the EGR. Will the stutters show up in the codes without tripping the engine light? I run into Advance Auto and borrow their scanner frequently. I have replaced the water pump 20 k ago which I thought was the radiator cracked and I replaced that before the pump.
If the CEL(check engine light) doesn't illuminate you probably don't have codes. You could have pending codes. You'll need to get your hands on a scan tool that allows you to monitor a data list. You can check check trims(for vacuum leaks) and misfire monitors. Intermittent problems are the most difficult to isolate simply because they don't occur all the time so it takes a lot of driving and watching the scanner for glitches and errors in inputs from the sensors. It's always a good idea to keep a note pad too so you can keep a record of when and where you are when the problem occurs along with notes on ambient temperature or whether it was cold outside or raining. This will help narrow things down if their climate related. Or as an example if your hiccup occurs at the same stop sign exiting your neighborhood on your way to work it could be traction control/abs kicking in because it detected wheel spin or a tire tread depth variance.
Used parts will fail the fastest. As others mentioned, misfires and rich running engine will hurt the cat eventually and aftermarket cats are cheap in every way.
thank you for making this video. i will be replacing number 5 this weekend. as well as my computer. do you think that a blown injector could cause an overload and fry the comp? i have a guy to program just hoping not to burn up the new one. any insight would be helpful
Sean Reardon Anything is possible but I doubt it would take out the computer. I've seen an idle air control valve short a computer on a car but it doesn't happen often. Injectors are normally powered at all times when the car is on. The computer controls the ground path and pulses the injectors when it's ready for them to open(duty cycles them). To diagnose a problem with an injector I would confirm the miss is on that cylinder and that it's not related to an ignition problem(Assuming you have a P0305). With key on engine off check voltage at the connector, if you don't have voltage on either pin check another injector to be sure voltage is supplied with koeo (key on engine off), if you have voltage at the other injector you probably have an open power wire on #5. If you have a noid light you can just plug that in and start the car briefly(don't run on a misfire or it will kill the catalytic converter). If the noid light blinks you have power and ground signals(I bought my lights in a test kit). You can check resistance on an injector to test for shorted or open windings as well. Specifications shouldn't be too hard to track down online or compare to another good injector. I doubt you need a computer but I'd like to hear how it all turns out!
So that Was Injector #6 correct? I have a 05 T&C and getting injector circuit malfunction code AND WIRES ARE MELTED DOWN. SO SHOULD I REPLACE THE INJECTOR AND TAPE UP THE WIRES TOO?
tokenrow669 That's going to depend on a few factors. How far up the harness is melted? I've personally never seen an injector harness melt. You'll need to look for the root cause which is likely to be a short circuit on that line. Most injector systems get power at all times with the ignition on and the computer controls the ground which fires the injector. If there's a short to ground on either side it may be possible to overheat the wiring. Make sure all the grounds under hood are in proper places and still connected as power can back feed from other circuits. So I guess in short(added pun), the injector could be the only problem and you could make due with a little tape but there's a good chance there's a deeper problem to solve that would require a lot of time, questions, and possibly someone with experience. It's better to replace the wires than to just tape them so you don't have a problem with the tape peeling later. Good luck with it and let me know how it goes!
RaucousFlame the wires only about an inch or less melted and were touching so I spaced them out and taped them. The injector does have a slight twist(I mean very slight) if I twist it, is that normal or is it supposed to be locked" motionless " in place?
tokenrow669 The rubber o-rings will usually allow for motion. The injector should not be able to move up and down unless there is a bad o-ring. Side to side movement should be okay.
I'm having a hard time finding out where the fuel rail itself is because mine is leaking and they want $500+ to replace it so I'm trying to find a video on how it's fone
Kelly Klein the fuel rail gets exposed around 3:15 in this video. Same procedure as pulling the injectors as the injectors are attached to the fuel rail.
how do you check and replace the harness? I replaced the intake but still have the same code. it stays open
Thumbing through replies I see I missed this question. The easiest way is to check from the power train control module to the failed injector with the injectors unplugged. It isn’t common from what I’ve seen to have a wiring failure. Normally it’s the connector at the injector or the injector itself. Be wary of buying cheap injectors and don’t rule out a bad “new” injector. If it’s much more than injector or connector it’s going to be difficult to isolate down the broken wire or whether the pcm has failed.
How long does it take to replace a injector and reassemble it. I'm taking my van in bc I don't have all the tools... idk if you answer right away but some insight would be nice. Thxs n great video btw.
I had code po201 injector circuit malfunction - cylinder 1
And po301 cylinder 1 misfire detected. Mu van jerks as i gain speed. Shud i put some gas fuel antifreeze to see id its the gas? Help plz thxs.
Joey John-George thanks! Well the short answer is the fastest I’ve done one would be around an hour and a half. My memory is a bit foggy. But, there’s always a but..., by the industry labor standards the job should pay a tech about 3 hours, I’d have to look it up to be absolutely positive. So if a shop charges $100 an hour then the labor would be $300. The standards are in place to give businesses a timeframe that a normal average tech can get it done. Whether they’re new to the field or new to that particular vehicles system and it’s intended to protect the consumer from overcharging for work. So in that way some shops are cheaper because they charge less per hour and others can be cheaper if they use cheaper parts. Hope that helps!
Joey John-George fuel quality shouldn’t set that code. And if the gas was poor quality you should see a misfire on multiple cylinders(usually all of them). If the injector was clogged a fuel treatment could possibly help. P0201 is a control circuit malfunction and would include the injector, the wiring, and the Powertrain control module or PCM. Typically it’s the injector and can cause a burnt connector.
quick question, how do you release the pressure in the fuel system to do this?
Start by removing the fuel pump fuse or relay. Start the vehicle and let it stall. Vent the gas tank by removing the cap briefly. And if there’s a test port on the fuel rail you can relieve the remaining pressure there(I can’t recall if these vans have one...). Otherwise, wear protective goggles or face shield and let the pressure escape when the fuel rail is disconnected from the fuel line. You can cover the line with a shop rag to avoid spray too.
ok, cool. thanks man
whats the best way to / How To release the fuel pressure before taking out the injector or fuel rail?
@@simardssurveillancesystems8209 pull the fuse or relay to the fuel pump and run until it stalls, disconnect the battery so the pump can’t prime again, and cover the fitting with a shop rag as you disconnect it so it’s less likely to spray.
Hi sir, your video was very good, i have a question , at first I tho u was doing fuel injection harness on top replacing fuel injectors, have u ran into melting fuel inj wire harness ? I’m hearing these dodge/ Chrysler on melted wires , can cause car not starting and stalling and throw out false codes..
If they are melted how are u supposed to wrap them up with keep it from melting again? Do u need to re wrap or just plug in? like fuel injector?
It really long story, I’ll try to short as much as I can.. got in parking lot and my van shut off, I try to start it and when let off the gas keep stalling..
There was a friend her bF try to get my car home it keep shut off when let off gas, he just kept it to floor ..
My van keep stalling when trying to start it here codes : ignition coil 2 po352- coil 3 po353 ( I got coil pack) map sensor- I lost code remember it..
strange before my van stop working I unplug the map and it ran better, bought one didn’t change anything.,
Code- po 442 -,po401 EGR-changed ERG didn’t help, po403, po456,po455,…. Yes lots of codes went thu advance auto part store on reading codes…
I tho maybe my coil pack was bad out of box exchange it now it won’t start at all.. oh forgot when trying to start it my heat/ air blower would auto turn on with it being on the off position….I really appreciate any help , suggestions.. thank u for ur time …
Sounds like you have a lot going on at one time. Start with the basics and set a baseline. Can you smell unburned fuel? If so, it may be flooded. Check for an rpm signal either via the tachometer or a scan tool/blue tooth device. If there’s no rpm reading you may have a bad crank sensor. Will it start if you add fuel, such as a squirt of throttle body spray, into the intake. If it starts when adding fuel then your not getting fuel and should look at the fuel supply system. There are a multitude of things that can cause these conditions. Check all the fuses and take note of any blown so you can trace those circuits if they are involved in powertrain control.
As far as melted wiring or connectors. Yes, that happens sometimes when a component fails or the connector terminal get loose. Anytime you’re making a repair and disconnecting parts it’s wise to inspect for signs of heat damage. If only a connector is charred you can get a connector pigtail to replace it. If wiring is burned or melted you’d have to replace all of the wire that has been damaged or the harness.
With so many possibilities you’ll have to take your time and narrow things down one system at a time. With a no start you check for spark, air, and fuel. Use the codes as a guide but look for the basics initially. It will help to jot down what you find and test to reference it again later and use the internet to your advantage. You can find many wiring diagrams and repair info floating around out there. Sites like alldatadiy.com (if I remember that correctly) offer a fee to access the information for one vehicle and can help a great deal. And be sure there’s no anti theft light on while cranking. Sometimes keys get magnetically altered or system components fail randomly causing anti theft systems to engage.
@@raucousflame2325hi sir, thanks for ur reply. No it not flooded, it starts sometimes but u got to keep the peddle on gas to keep it running and then I get gas smell .. but after taking off the ignition coil putting new one on it won’t start at all ..the last time I had it started the rpm was jumping….
The throttle body has been off and cleaned and sensor replaced..none of my fuses are being blown…I heard dodge vans are prone to melting…I’m trying to take plugs out now and 3 of them wasn’t gap right, had black wetness to one of them .. I forgot the codes I had from the key turn on dodges one of them diff then advanced auto code reader it has a po202 says 2 injector..
I’m got half of the screws off petium the thing u were taking off I can’t get 2 screws out in back one middle and the one on drive side , bcz the cowl thing is keeping the wrench to unscrew.. the pass side had more clearance… do I need take off PCV valve off too? I unhook the EgR hose and one part has black gritty gunk that looks plugged in hose can that cause issues?
I appreciate ur help thanks for ur suggestions…
@@theresam8809 when taking the plenum off you may have to use extensions or swivels to access the back bolts. What model year is your van? Be sure to disconnect the battery and observe safety requirements when making your repair to avoid fuel spraying. P0202 is the injector code and indicates the injector or circuit has failed so once you get to the injector be sure to inspect the connector and wiring.
Carbon plugging the egr ports will cause an insufficient flow code and affect emissions but shouldn’t cause stalling. The egr system can stall a vehicle if it is stuck on but it has to have enough flow rate to overwhelm the engine.
@@raucousflame2325 Hi, i tried long extensions but it still in way, my van 2001 it’s 3.3 v 6 sports ..
yes sir I do disconnect the battery , but some people that has worked on my cars never do and since they mechanic, I don’t question it..
So that black stuff I wish could show u the pic but to me I’m shocked it didn’t choke system it don’t look like any air could get thru it so caked of it .. Could this cause black smoke from exhaust pipe? How do I clean it out with??
I allowed a random stranger at gas station Put on my new EGR without looking around the erg hoses and it was night and not much lite Why my car wouldn’t stay started tho that was problem I had a code for it bought one..
Should I put the old one back on ? Is there something special u do when putting a new one on? Sorry it just I never had issues like this with car most time it just basic stuff starter alternator batt and belts these new ones it so different..
when I can get to the wires harness if melted or not what type of stuff u wrap them back up with and how do I keep it from manifold?! I heard this is big issues on these idk why they didn’t recall it fix it…, thanks for trying to help me it very much appreciated…
@@theresam8809 the carbon blockage you have can be cleaned by picking it out with a screwdriver or pick tool while holding a vacuum close. You don’t want a lot of carbon falling out of reach if you can help it. Once there’s an opening you can spray it with cleaner and use a bottle brush or pipe cleaner to clear the remaining carbon. Use caution if the plug is on the exhaust side because if a catalyst gets fuel and air it may combust.
For the wires, if they are shorted together and burnt you’ll have to cut out the bad wire and splice in new wire. If it’s at the connector you can just install a connector pig tail because connector pig tails come with six inches or so of wire.
Heat from the engine can make wire insulation brittle but doesn’t cause melting without a short circuit. The two ways wires usually melt are arcing from lose terminals causing excessive heat and a change in resistance, like a bad injector, causing amperage to rise because voltage generally will remain constant. I would say it’s a good idea to use a high quality injector, ideally from the manufacturer, because you don’t want to go back in for the same repair twice and injectors have to remain strong during the field collapse that occurs when turning off and on. Most people don’t know but when the field collapses in an injector voltage spikes and it differs from vehicle to vehicle. I’ve heard some reach 150V and I’ve seen 100V on some I’ve tested.
We took ours to O'Reily's to get it checked and all we know is that Injector #4 is misfiring. We got the fuel injector but we're trying to figure out which one is #4...
If I remember correctly, off the top of my head, number four is center front. Closest cylinders to the radiator are 2/4/6. But when in doubt look up “firing order” or “cylinder identification” for your engine. I don’t think it’s ever been different on the 3.0 or 3.3 liter but it’s best to confirm rather than take it back apart. Another way to confirm, not necessarily the best way, is to pull the injector connector or coil connector for the cylinder and check the misfire code that sets(only use in a pinch and avoid prolonged misfires because they will damage the catalyst). Hope that helps!
What the signs of a bad fuel injector?
what kind of drill is that? would love to get my dad one for Christmas :)
cherry baby That was my Snap-On tools 1/4 inch drive air ratchet model number FAR25. It’s around 10-15 years old and has held up well. Depending on whether he has an air compressor or not you may consider a battery powered unit. Snap-On offers a great one of those because it’s pretty narrow and the closest I’ve seen to the size of my air ratchet. A 3/8 drive will also work for this particular job but it would be larger, although it provides more power. It should be noted that I don’t use them to tighten the intakes down. I switch to a torque wrench for that. Hope that helps.
cherry baby I went ahead and put a link in the description to the new and improved version of my ratchet. Seems it’s been switched to a solid body design with a cushion grip!
I have 08 grand caravan that gas a 1 fuel injection up close that is moving. It's possible for me to twist it around. Is all injectors suppose to be like that??
It is possible to turn an injector that is bolted down but it should not be easy. If it is easy to turn the seals may be bad or the rail may be loose. It may be easier to turn, if one of the valve covers are leaking oil on the injector. Normally a bad injector o-ring will set a lean code so if you have a check engine light on you should get the code or codes out of the system to isolate the problem. If you do not have a lean code and the engine is running normally without any misfires I would leave it alone 😁 no more injector spinning for you!
Is there any good injector cleaners too use in the mean time. Which 1 do you recommend?
Joey John-George check the bottles for any with Techron. I believe that’s the best detergent choice for additives. Additionally if you can get some BG44K they have detergents and conditioners in that being similar and the product works incredibly well. www.bgprod.com/ for information.
BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner
www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDVU6EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fWeaBbZHJJJSR
Available on Amazon.
Joey John-George with 44k you fill your tank, run it down below 1/4 tank, fill up and repeat. You’ll still have product in the tank that will continue to clean through a third refueling as I’ve been told.
Ok thxs a lot. Hard to find good help these days.
This is almost exactly like the 3.3L engine, except mine is throttle by wire.
I have the same motor. No EGR on the side but I keep getting the engine code P0403 for a bad EGR. Do you know where it is on that motor???
As far as I recall, on the town and country, the egr (if equipped) is a solenoid mounted to the cylinder head by the alternator. Check the emissions label under hood to confirm that van came with one(if someone did an engine swap or changed the powertrain control module it may be a false code). Depending on the scan tool being used it could be a false code as well. I believe the egr switched from vacuum operated to solenoid in the late 90’s but going more than a few days back gets a bit fuzzy sometimes 🤣
I changed my #2 injector but it still shoots out gasoline what should I check for next
Be sure you replaced the o-rings. Lubricate them with some gasoline just before you reinstall the injector. Make sure the clips are in place. Most domestic vehicles have retaining pins or clips that hold the injector to the rail. You may want to pull the fuel rail off or use a mirror to inspect the rail for cracks or damage. The top o-ring is where gas will leak and the bottom(if bad) will set lean codes and turn on the check engine light. Hope that helps!
Is there a diagram that shows which fuel injectors are which #? I have a P0203 and I'm trying to find the #3 cylinder
Facing engine from the front of vehicle. Rear of engine left to right are cylinders 1-3-5. Front of engine left to right are cylinders 2-4-6.
You can look up cylinder identification or firing order for your vehicle. As Billy said, and as far as my memory serves me, Chrysler has placed 1-3-5 near the firewall of most of their front wheel drive engines. Even though I don’t remember it ever being different I always look it up for every vehicle I work on. Cause it’s a pain when you think you’ve got it down and you replace the wrong injector 🤣
What kind of ratchet is that?? I want one!!! Just a suggestion: if u take off the wiper cowl u have a lot more room. Nice video!!!
👍
sorry this motor has no return from the rail ?? I disconnected the margera with green insurance and it still started my truck?
Residual fuel pressure will remain in the system after disabling the fuel pump. The vehicle should start and then stumble and stall out after removing the fuel pump fuse or relay. If it doesn’t, chances are the pump isn’t disabled.
How much would it cost me to get something like this fixed? Cause if its not a spark plug like I'm hoping then this is the only other reason I've found for the van constantly throbbing and I dont know if I can afford it but I dont know what will happen if I wait another few weeks before being able to get it fixed
Sorry for the delay but here goes... It’s difficult to say for sure. There are many variables, from shop rates, to which labor manual is used, to age of vehicle and cost rises if anything breaks, is seized, stuck or otherwise goes wrong(as long as it’s out of the tech’s control). So the older a vehicle gets the more it “can” cost to repair. But just to give everyone an idea, labor times vary between manuals(and sometimes by a lot) so we’ll say on average 3 to 3.5 hours labor, gaskets, and a fuel injector would average around $600. Based on $100/hour labor(dealers near me charge $130 and most independents charge between $90-$100 per hour). An injector is usually $150-$200(don’t hold me to that as parts are variable too) and gaskets may be as much as $50. That’s if things go normal and there are no problems. If you’re not sure what’s wrong it’s best to pay for a diagnostic. It’s always wise to find a reputable shop and work with someone you can trust.
@@raucousflame2325 well we don't think its that. Now we think its the motor mount or something that is causing the van the vibrate furiously usually when stopped. Then sometimes when accelerating
@@Codamans does your check engine light blink? Do you feel a lack of power?
@@raucousflame2325 it hasn't yet and whenever I first start it and drive right after it'll seem to have trouble continously accelerating for about 10 minutes then something will start popping a few times then it runs sort of fine. Atleast acceleration wise. I've been leaving it running whenever I'm about to go to work and it won't do that once I leave
@@Codamans if the check engine light doesn’t blink it means the computer control system has not detected a misfire that is bad enough to cause catalyst failure(which doesn’t take much of a misfire). I would recommend checking transmission fluid level and checking for transmission leaks. Maybe run by a parts store and ask to have the codes read but not cleared(parts stores love to clear them in order to be of service to a customer and that can cause problems with diagnostics if a technician looks at it later. The computer will save freeze frame data with many codes that can help diagnose a condition. ) Low transmission fluid level can act in a similar fashion as the transmission/transaxle warms the fluid expands slightly and may then shift normally. If your van is not equipped with a dipstick you can buy a test dipstick from the parts store, they come with directions for checking the fluid by temperature. If you don’t have a scanner that tells you temperature you can establish a baseline by checking it before running the vehicle and base the volume on atmospheric temperature. This may only work properly if overnight temperature is close to the temperature band(low range) provided with the dipstick. Hope that helps a bit.
How are the injectors laid out? I have a 3.3 L. Where is injector 1, 2, ...6? Ty
Life's Notes the rear cylinder head(closest to firewall) is 1/3/5 and front is 2/4/6
1/3/5
Thank you RF.
Would a 3.8 intake manifold fit 3.3 ?
Lenny McCormick I don’t think so. There’s usually minor differences with either coolant ports, egr, or throttle systems.
You should show how you release fuel from injector rail
What year is the T&C?
I have a 2010 town and country. Well I had a injector 2 staying open code. It was running very horrible and it smelled like fuel. I took it to a shop and had the injector replaced. When the work was done I drove home but only half way home it did the same problem again. Well before I left I noticed the check engine still on. I went back to the mecanic and he replaced it again. Drove off and same thing happened. He referred me to an electrical mecanic. I found 1 and 1 day later he fixed the problem. It was the harness that had built up corrosion. I noticed the code was gone and 100 times better. However it still has a slight hesitation when I drive . I asked this mecanic and he assured me everything is fine but to drive it like that until a code comes on. I don't know what else to do. What might anyone suggest?
Ross Morales you can try disconnecting the battery to clear memory. Leave it disconnected for about ten minutes to give the computers time to “reset”. Once you restart it you may find the idle is a little off but after it warms up you can cut it off and restart it again. This should relearn idle control. When you first drive it after a battery reset it may also shift funny for a little while. The power train control will relearn shift patterns too so try not to accelerate rapidly or you’ll teach it bad habits (heavy throttle raises line pressure and shifts harder). One other thing you can try is a high quality gasoline and some cleaner additive to remove any potential deposits that could cause these kind of problems.
@@raucousflame2325 thank you so much for your reply. I will do that very soon.
@@raucousflame2325 I had the hood opened earlier and noticed that the harnesses that connects to the throttle body and intake manifold isn't in good shape due to the heat coming from the exhaust manifold. I am thinking about replacing that harness but don't know how challenging it would be.
Ross Morales if the corrugated tuning is brittle I would call that normal and not replace anything. If wires are melted you will need to repair or replace and wire harnesses are time consuming and can be difficult. They usually connect everything on the engine and transmission. If required I would generally repair and route the wires rather than replace a whole harness.
What was the outcome of this repair? Obviously you're chasing down and responding to an error code. Did the repair work?
Titus1221 it sure did! You can get several different codes for the same failure so it was just listed as a replacement. Some people get an injector code directly, some get a misfire code. I thought it was more useful as how to replace than going into a diagnostic detail.
Does anyone know wth the Schradder valve is to check the fuel pressure??
I don’t think these vans had a schrader valve. Sometimes manufacturers require you to “T” in to the lines to check fuel pressure.
@@raucousflame2325 thank you
Hi, How do I know what injector is the number 1 injector??
Luzzz Sendiss you can usually find it on the internet by searching for firing order for the particular year of vehicle. If that doesn’t lead to good results you can try cylinder layout or identification. If I remember correctly(I don’t commit these things to memory anymore because I work on many makes and models) cylinders 1,3,5 are on the firewall side and 2,4,6 are by the radiator. Be sure to double check that against your particular vehicle though. (One quick tip: if you do a google search look into the images for fastest results)
RaucousFlame thank you I will look it up I have a 2008 town and country
nice tks I am looking for a video on were and how to replace a fuel pump regulator on a 20o7 dodge caravan
Louis Demasson I'll keep my eyes peeled for one but there's not often a regulator that goes bad on the pump. If there's pressure bleeding down, or not enough pressure, it's usually wear on the pump or possibly an electrical condition. Sorry I didn't see your question earlier. Looks like it's time to upgrade the phone so my notifications work again... I'd like to hear how it turns out so drop me comment when you sort it out!
Hi again sorry for not getting back sooner. What I eventually found out was it was my fuel pump which is in the tank so I had to drop my tank and replace the fuel pump. It was a bit of a chore since I don't have a lift .I used a floor jack and stands. It was a good learning experience for me. I got it back together it runs fine. Tks.
Hope the fuel pump is my problem also..... Replaced the cylinder head, fuel injectors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, MAP sensor, TPS, and Fuel injector harness that was stiff and some wires were melted together and after all that I am still have misfiring issues. Only thing left to do is the fuel filter and fuel pump in the tank. Just hope it's not the PCM.
Wow you sound like Nicholas Cage.
What is the torch measure for tight injectors plzz
musandurakovic 2.4L 22nm 195inlbs
And 3.3/3.8L 11.8nm 105inlbs for the fuel rails. Should be the same across years.
RaucousFlame im new to this,and craysler asking me to change injectors 3 700$,so im watch ur video ,and thanks
How did you release fuel pressure
Pull the fuel pump fuse and run it until it stalls, then crank it a bit more. Cover any connections with a rag when you remove the lines or injector and wear safety glasses or face shield to avoid any possible spray. The fuel rail will still have fuel present and it will drip/run out on you and the floor so have some towels or a container ready to protect painted surfaces.
In 20 years time the ICE will be in the museum like the steam engine, and dudes will see your historic video and say "holy moley those old dudes had a devil of a time working on those old crappy ice vehicles" I kindof flipped to EV's after i put a 20 pound EV kit on a 20 pound bike and got a motorbike that overtakes scooters on the hill climb, at 0.3 cents a mile.
Best Electronic Music From New Geniuses I’m honestly surprised that everything has not been powered by a hybrid power train over the last few years. With the availability of EV technology as advanced as it is, as shown by Tesla, we should see further competition in the coming years. I look forward to new inspiring technology but part of me cringes at the thought of both procuring parts(mainly cost) and the requirement to “learn” the new trade 🤣
What is the sign of a bad fuel injector?
There’s a number of signs that can point toward a failed or failing injector. Primarily a check engine light, the computer control runs a self test on the circuit and will generally illuminate the light. Other signs could be things like a misfire on startup, a misfire at all times, increased fuel consumption, repeat catalyst failures, maybe even fuel trim diagnostic codes. But generally the computer control will pickup the failure and set the light before you realize there’s a problem.
When you press on the gas and it jerks back is that the motor mounts that needs to be changed out
@@williamcarswell1343 it could be but it’s hard to say without seeing it first hand. The easiest way to test an engine mount is to hold the brake and load the engine in gear. It’s best to block the wheels and set the parking brake for safety. If it clunks in drive the front mount is weak, broken, or out of adjustment. If it does so in reverse it’s the rear. Technicians pair up for this test and one will watch the mount while the other loads it up. This test can be dangerous standing in front of the vehicle so it would be advised to take it to a shop to have it checked. Other things that can shift are transmission mounts, subframe bushings, brake components, and drive axles. There are plenty other things too but these are more common than others. Ignition components can, under certain conditions, give you a bump/clunk under load that feels like a loose mount or even a torque converter shudder. Just be sure to start with basics if chasing a drive ability problem. Things like a defective battery can cause a multitude of conditions and both ruin hours of diagnostics and appear as a different condition.
Without a power ratchet it looks time. Consuming
Well that depends on the bolts. I can spin a bolt out using an extension and fingers faster than the air ratchet as long as it’s not rusted or binding. Loosen with the ratchet and then spin the extension with the fingers. But the main thing to remember is it isn’t about speed. It’s about accuracy. If you have to do the job twice with an air ratchet but once by hand you’re saving time using hand tools. Saving money too 👍
Town and Country fuel injector
What year is this?
Honestly I can’t remember to save my life… I’ll have to see if I have the video files on the computer. I want to say 02-03 but don’t hold me to it. It was intended as a quick overview, without torque specs and deep details, to help people visualize what they may encounter. We’re you thinking of tackling such a job? What kind of problem are you having? Fuel smell, misfire, that nasty check engine light the wife/husband can’t stand?
@@raucousflame2325 actually i was driving my 05 caravan and its ran great since ive gotten it. Ive done regular maintenance, also changed the CPS, Radiator and hoses, new battery, new water pump, now wires and ignition coil. Anyways i was driving and it just died. Then wouldnt start back up. Happened a week ago. Im stumped. I think it might either be a wiring short from corrosion or PCM failure. I already tested the fuel pump it was spraying strong out od the main supply that connects into fuel rail. Just really weird
@@Dbjjr26 a buddy of mine had an intermittent stall condition, almost caused him to get hit once, that i isolated to the ignition key switch. I checked a few things and decided to look at the key switch itself having heard a couple makes would stall because of it. His was newer than yours and had a plastic key fob. But sure enough I could jiggle the key(fob assembly) and cause it to shut off. I would recommend looking into that. On his, I could pull on the key and it would cut off. It’s electronic on the newer models and although it does not mechanically actuate anything, the result was pulling the key caused the key module to send the off signal to the network and the other modules heard the signal to power off. It didn’t set any diagnostic codes if I remember correctly because the vehicle assumed it was a command from the driver. Now, those ignition switches (modules) require programming and I believe the part and programming was about $500. You’ve done excellent to clear away the basics battery foremost(make sure the terminals are in good repair and make solid contact), ignition and fuel supply. I would recommend trying to get diagnostic codes before removing the battery terminals(pulling power will clear diagnostic data but the newer vans, starting around 2016-17 I believe store permanent codes). If anything else comes to mind I’ll drop another long winded message haha!
@@Dbjjr26 before I get ahead of myself… like I just did… be sure to check all your fuses. Proceed with a normal diagnostic pattern for crank no start, I’m assuming it cranks. You can get an inexpensive spark tester to confirm you’re getting fire to the plugs, noid lights are usually inexpensive and can be used to check the exposed injectors for signals( you can use a test light as well but you have to hook the ground and tip to each injector terminal carefully so as not to touch one another, aka if you ground from the battery you’ll create a short circuit that could blow fuses or damage the pcm driver circuit as pcm ground side switches), ideally you’d want a bidirectional scan tool(allows you to active test and command computer controlled circuits on and off) but you’ll definitely want to scan all the computers to make sure you don’t have a theft fault(shouldn’t cause a stall but could cause a crank no start) pr a network communication issue. Now I’ll go ponder other possibilities.
@@raucousflame2325 hey man long winded the better. Im stumped honestly i rewent through it going to change the spark plugs and look under thr relay box for corrosion. Im balling on a budget right now so that 500.00.part doesnt sound.too fun to buy tbh. I own this vehicle.though and it hasnt really given me any major problems i couldnt fix before. Usually ran strong. Someone else mentioned the fob possibility. My ignition switch seems solid though on and off cant pull the key out or anything and i pulled the cover from under the steering wheel and nothing appeared to be out of sorts. The electronic aspect of it though aka the key fob itself which puts the alarm on may be another thing ill examine and possibly replace. Shitty part is its actually part of the key itself that may be a dealer job to pay for which would suck
Holy Christ, its very involved. You got to take lots of stuff off just to get at them and than you have to torque the intake back down in a specific pattern, ugh.
It’s not bad. Just take pictures while you’re taking it apart so you don’t have to spend a ton of energy memorizing. Organize the bolts in a pattern, put them in a row or something as it comes off.
Ehh it's already too late
I recommend. Using Vaseline instead of gasoline to lube those O-rings.
If it is close at hand the Vaseline would make an easier install! Sometimes the gas lets the o-rings drag.
Here’s some good news for removing the power steering reservoir and that WRETCHED 10mm nut that nobody can find: You need only loosen it, rather than remove the nut entirely! Why in thunder did anybody ever think mounting the nut in the backside of the reservoir was a good idea????? Sheesh!
Your videos are not helpful if you dont ahow all the steps and give all spects like what is the torque spec at the end?
Thanks for the insight. I may add something to the end when I have a chance. It was intended as a guideline as opposed to a how to video in order to keep it short. Just to show what you have to do in order to access the part and replace it. I always reference shop materials or do a google search because differences in model year will affect the torque spec’s. Since it is a broad spectrum video I didn’t include torque specs so that those differences wouldn’t affect the outcome of an individual repair. But I definitely agree it would be helpful and when I have some time I will compare model years to check for differences.
The fuel injectors aren't expensive so I would have changed them all since I have everything off
Thank you