I changed out my flywheel as well, made all the difference in peddling at higher speeds. In my honest opinion, I think this is the gearing that lectric should have came with since the bike can go 28 when set to a class 3.
They do this to appease the EU markets I think. There's a video of one guy putting a 1600w motor into an Engwe bike (same design) along with the 11 sprocket final gear. The 11 is essential past 20mph.
Great video! I have a XP1.0 that I have put a little over 2000 miles to commute to my job year round. As I am limited to Class 2 in Canada, the clown pedalling effect is not too bad but I still have been considering this upgrade just to get a bit more resistance at higher speeds. I have also watched many posts on how to do this and IMO yours is the best! Well explained, well filmed, and nicely paced. Thanks.
Thanks! I'm currently waiting for the XPremium. These bikes are so fun, took all my excuses away from me and now I try to go ride around on my ebikes whenever I can (yes, bikes, I've got a problem). Be safe and enjoy the ride!
Ive had this bike for 4 yrs 550 miles 5 close calls or more, then just wiped out on this bike yesterday and got hurt , this bike is not balanced enough for these speeds, im selling it .
Shoots...I can see what you mean. For me, I built a couple of ebikes since my XP got stolen and they are better suited to higher speed. But transporting them in my corolla is sometimes challenging so the folding bikes still have an utility for me. I hope you are all healed up and back on the road!
This is how you can calculate what combination of wheel size, freewheel/ cog teeth, and pedalling cadence is right for you. You just need to do some math. First, measure the diameter of your wheel. Example 50.8 cm. Next, find the circumference of the wheel. 3.14 (which is pie) x 50.8 cm = 159.5 cm. Then, count the number of teeth on your largest front chainring (you might only have 1). Example 52 teeth. Then count the number on the smallest rear cog. Example 12 teeth. Then calculate the gear ratio by dividing the front by the rear. Example 52 ÷ 12 = 4.3. This means every time your pedal cranks make one revolution, the rear wheel will turn 4.3 times. Next, calculate how far that one pedal revolution (4.3 turns of the rear wheel) will take you. Example 4.3 x 159.5 cm = 691.2 cm Next you need to know how fast you like to pedal to be comfortable. This is called your preferred pedalling cadence. Ride your bike and spin your legs at a rate that you find comfortable. Next, using a timer on your phone, count how many times you pedal in 10 seconds. Multiply that number by 6. This is your preferred pedalling RPM. Example 11.5 x 6 = 69 RPM. Take this RPM figure and multiply it by the figure you got for the distance the wheel travels with one pedal revolution. Example 691.2 cm x 69 RPM = 47,692.8 cm. Multiply this by 60 to get cm per hour. 47,692.8 x 60= 2,861,568 cm/hr. Then just convert to kph or mph. 28.6 kph or 17.7 mph. This is how you can calculate what combination of wheel size, freewheel/ cog teeth and pedalling cadence is right for you. Hope this helps.
Thank you for this video. You are correct and hit on all the big issues with this ebike. Most reviews just ignore the overwhelming problems with this product, but you not only call them out, you also provided solutions. The Lectric community is more informed and honest thanks to this video.
Just an FYI, the thing you called a safety bracket on your rear axle, is actually your torque arms, they prevent the axle from twisting inside the frame mount, during acceleration, without them, your bike would destroy itself in just a few miles, so your torque arms are very important.
Thank you for correction. Yes, I was thinking about the part at the time and I realize it was to leverage the motor to the frame. "Torque arm", dang it. Thank you again.
Another great video nice job! I changed my freewheel out as well with the 11-34 to try and get my speed up to over 30 mph, and what I've discovered is, is that the 11 tooth does bring my cadence down, the motor seems to work against me at over 28 mph. That said, I was disappointed not achieving my desired result, however as you point out the big benefit with this swap pays off in the reduced current draw to get greater distances on a battery cycle. If you have steep hills in your area you might consider going with the 11-34, because the 34 makes a big difference on the low end. Just a side note, and don't quote me on this, but the safety washers you mentioned, might be called torque arms, and I think there primary function is to help keep the axle from spinning in the frame under heavy torque situations. PS you look like the pounds are falling off man, happy cycling...
@donald. Thanks for the feedback and for correcting the name of the washer. It was the best I can do not calling it a “thingamajig”. Haha. Man, the smaller gear is kicking my butt though. I’m just not in good enough shape to keep the cadence. I actually just got out of the hospital from back surgery. Before the surgery, the bikes help me so much to get stronger and manage the pain. 30 mph…you are an animal, great job!
@@tai.randomthings Great demonstration on changing the flywheel. @donald. If your P08 is at 45 it is normal that anything above it will cause some resistance, i suggest 100 for unlimited. i use 52V on mine and on flat i got it up to 33, 34 mph , but you can not hold it unless your are an Olympian, but it will hold 29, 30 Mph on full charge as your voltage steps below 50V it will be harder to get these speeds. Example for P08 set it 40 and you'll see the resistance coming in at above 24.85 Mph. @Random Things Back to you buddy on the 52v20Ah using theses settings i'll get avg of 43 miles, so you are spot on. My best was 53 miles avg 19mph.
The motor seems to work against you at 28 mph because it no longer provides any thrust at 28 mph. That is no load max rpm. As you approach 28mph the motor hands all power thrust responsibilities to the human pedaler.
The bike is limited to 28 mph so the motor cuts out at 28 mph. to push it to 30 mph you would be the power without the motor. It would get you to 28 then you would have to push or pedal it on up to 30 mph.
@@tai.randomthings Bummer. My bike was bought for leisure only. No way I'd chain this anywhere. They're like a magnet for theives, I've had some chase me while riding. Go country. :D
11-34 is where its at though... Best of both worlds, speed and climbs. Lectric didnt go with the 11 tooth on the low end because it puts alot more torque on the motor and could lower the lifespan.
@@turbofan450 i mean anyone with half a brain can think about it, less gears on the small sproket is very hard to pedal normally , its the same stress on the engine and why we move gears up to get up hills.
@@FriarPop the hub motor is not affected by the gears on the freewheel. The hub motor doesn't care what gear you're in or how fast or hard you're pedaling. Any force transmitted through the freewheel goes through the motor casing and then onto the spokes. The motor itself doesn't know or care about the gearing. Now if you were talking about a Mid drive motor and the chain having to pull a small cog, then that would make more sense...
Do your wheels spin for a good amount of time when you spin them while lifted on a bike maintenance stand? Mine stop quick, so there is a bunch of drag somewhere. Is there a way to fix that?
Mine does spin. Most likely, it's your brakes. If you shine a light on the other side of the brakes while you are looking at it (so back light it), it may be easier to see. Here is a good video if you are not familiar. ua-cam.com/video/NmqGeLNcVIg/v-deo.html
I got my XP in July. I changed the freewheel out before I even rode it. I did a lot of mods that day. It's by far the best ebike out there IMO. I also changed the rotor to 180mm & a Zoom Hydro brake unit. You need a 180mm brake adaptor. Couple bucks.
Might amaze everyone. I want to get a new free wheel, since I use the throttle all the time and I get no resistance presently. Technically, my State does not allow us to have a Class 3 EBike. I have heard of changing the free wheel, but no one tells about saving Amps as the best reason to do it!
I changed my freewheel on my 1.0 but when changing gears, it doesn't go onto the 1st (biggest) gear, and it's clunky when shifting. Does my derailer need to be adjusted?
Thank you for the info. It is cool to the voltage as that is a good indicator as to where you are before the bikes electric assistance is to shutting off. Are you able to see how many watts are being generated from you and the motor? Also if the resistance is not too much at the moment you may want to consider a 9 tooth cog and or a bigger chainring tooth count.
I am not able to see the watts, I wish I could because then I can put all the variables into context. I thought about a 9 tooth but at this point, I am not strong enough for it, some day. Thanks for the comments!
The disadvantage is that a 11 x 32 (28) is harder to find plus they cost more money than a 14 x tooth freewheel. I find I have to replace the freewheel every bike season as the 11 tooth gear wears out faster than a 14 tooth gear. When I find a good price for a 11 tooth freewheel I normally buy two at a time. It does go farther and faster.
true...and good idea to buy two. Are you riding a hub drive? I am surprised to hear that it wore out that quick on a hub drive. How many miles do you put on in a season?
I wish Lectric would put this new freewheel on the bike from the factory or at least offer it as an option. The first two gears (28 tooth and 24 tooth) stay the same. The sixth gear has 13 teeth which is close enough to the 14 tooth seventh gear on the original setup. Thanks for the video.
So you had to change out the whole gear set instead of just the high gear. Handy. Thanks for the information. Good video. You did show the teeth per gear on the new one, how does that compare with the OEM set?
The Lectric (and most bikes in this category) have a "freewheel", where all 7 cogs are part of one mechanism. Some high end road and mountain bikes have "cassette" vs a "freewheel". Cassettes allow you to change individual cogs but not freewheels. In this case, it is the smallest cog that affects the "ghost pedeling". The OEM cog (7th gear) has 14 teeth. The one I changed to in this video has 11 teeth, which allows you to keep on cranking to help the motor at the highest speed settings. I hope this is what you are asking about. If not, let me know and we can dive into it more. Safe riding.
if you are not riding faster than 20 mph, the stock gear ratio should be sufficient. But if you feel like even at the speed that you are riding, you are "ghost" pedalling, then changing the free wheel will help. Ghost pedalling is when you pedal but don't feel any resistance, kind of like when you spin the crank backwards and don't feel any resistance. I hope that makes sense.
Hi man i have an ADO 20 F with Shimano freewheel. Do you think with this Drift Maníac from Ali Express y can have more range in distancie? Ado batteries are very bad.
I am not familiar with ADO 20F but if you are ghost pedaling than adding a freewheel that has 28-11t will help (I am assuming you are riding on a 28-14t). But I am not sure how much more you need? Have you also trying being more steady when you ride?
Hmmm...just looked it up. It's a 36V battery. I couldn't not find the spec on the stock freewheel but I am guessing it's a 28-14t so the drift maniac should help. But the bike could be too small for you depending on the terrain, that could be why you are burning through your battery.
ABOUT THE DERAILLEUR? You started talking about it it looked like you weren't a great position to show us how to adjust it but then you didn't do anything or mention it anymore. Did you need to adjust the derailleur?
I apologize. You shouldn't need to adjust the derailleur (at least I didn't) but I had tuned my derailleur before. If you are not familiar to adjusting derailleurs, Park Tools has an awesome video on how to. ua-cam.com/video/UkZxPIZ1ngY/v-deo.html
@@tai.randomthings FYI I watched that park tool derailleur video I like park tools but it seems like they make things more complicated than it has to be. Almost like they try to make it look like it's difficult cuz they want you to bring it to a shop or something. It's really so much more simpler than the way they show it to adjust these derailleurs. It's your only literally take you a couple of minutes to do it.
Got one of the Lectric Premium long range (two batteries) bikes. After about a 100 miles, the Derailleur was a little off. I messed with it and made it worse. Bike is at the bike shop getting the Derailleur adjusted. With the new cassette, did you have to adjust the Derailleur? My stock one is 34/24/21, can't see the other gears....Rode mine 42 miles the other day at PAS3 5th gear, around 16mph. When I got home I still had 46% battery.
I do check the derailleur when I first get the bike to make sure the shifting works properly. I have the XPremium as well and I do have to change the chain and freewheel after a while so I adjust the derailleur after the change. I have a video that shows how I adjust the Lectric derailleur. I put a link to the video. Go to the 28 minute mark to see the derailleur adjustment. I am guessing you have a 12t to 34t freewheel. Meaning your smallest cog is 12 tooth sprocket. On PAS3, I typically ride in 4th or 5th gear. Seems to work well for me on the XPremium. As for the percentage reading on the display, it's a good estimate but better if you pay attention to the actual voltage remaining. I think you are doing good with your milage vs battery remaining. ua-cam.com/video/tqrAM75DU-4/v-deo.html
@@tai.randomthings Messing with the derailleur is why it's at the shop getting adjusted! It wouldn't go into 1st gear after I messed with it and the chain would jump on gear 5. There are are an A and B screw and and the cable adjustment, what does the 3rd screw do on it?
@@tai.randomthings So If I understand this correctly, Loosen the cable first BEFORE turning the A and B screws to make adjustments. I could never see my derailleur moving because I didn't loosen the cable.
You did a great job on the vid, but that cheap freewheel removal tool that you used, strips easily.. i couldn’t remove the freewheel once it started to strip.. i ordered the chrome plated one that is offered for about $17. As an accessory.. the fit on the spline is much tighter on the stock freewheel that i had removed.. i have yet to use the new tool, but i will soon..
@chuck jansen, thank you for the compliment and you are 100% right. When I opened the tool, it felt cheap and I was hoping it would last this project. However, I would not call it a forever tool. I did buy a chrome one from amazon as a back up/something different. Didn't end up needed it so I returned it. Hope you project goes smooth now. Thanks again.
Always buy Park Tools for repair work. The FR 1.3 is the one you need for this Shimano spline and I guarantee you won't be replacing it in your lifetime unless a friend forgets to return it or it gets stolen!
@ebttt, first link is the tool, second is the gear: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0718XPC51/ www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYNSHZC/ I will also put the link in the description in case this copy paste didn't work...sorry, newbie at this. Forgive me.
Hey! Great video thank you! So i went through everything but can't seem to get oast 20 still, on PAS 5. Gear won't go past 5 either. Could that be the issue? Please lmk. Thanka!
Hi, I am assuming you have the XP 2.0 and you have unlocked the bike so that it is a Class 3 and the program lets you go beyond 20 mph. Having said that, I think you have two separate issues. 1. Are you trying to go faster than 20 mph on throttle only? If so, Lectric programs the bike so that it will NOT go faster than 20 mph on throttle only, even if it's unlocked. You have to engage the motor by pedaling. Good thing is you don't have to pedal hard, you just need to rotate the cranks and the sensor will pick it up. 2. If you cannot go beyond 5th gear, either your derailleur needs adjusting or your derailleur protector bracket is bent and hitting you derailleur and preventing you from shifting into your smaller gears. If you look at your derailleur and it is making contact with the protector bracket, just pull the bracket outward until it won't obstruct the derailleur. It still so you may need a pair of pliers to help but definately doable. If it's just adjusting your derailleur, below is a link on me adjusting the derailleur. It's a long video for the XPremium but the adjustment is the same for the XP. Go to the 28 minute mark to get to the section on derailleur adjustment. ua-cam.com/video/tqrAM75DU-4/v-deo.html Hope this solves your problem. If not, please comment back and I will try my best to help you troubleshoot. Good luck and happy riding!
@@tai.randomthingsthank you so much for the assistance!! Did not change to class 3 so I'll do that first check out if the derailer was the issues. Appreciate all the details in your response
LOL...the top shelf bottles are the little rewards after a good ride! Changing the freewheel is super easy and definitely worth doing for the 2.0. Happy riding!
How this workout for you. I noticed on some reviews of this on Amazon. The modification made noise the metal was wobbly. Cleaning the metal wasn't as strong as the original. What are your thoughts. Also I don't know if it matters if you're a big guy but I way over 300 lb The bike can handle 330 I wonder if that will affect and show the weakness of the medal because of my size. That hub is so inexpensive but the Shimano version is a lot more expensive I wonder if it's just better made..
I use it for my Lectric before it was stolen and my Jupiter Defiant. I love it. I'm a 220 pounder and I don't think it makes a difference for a rear hub motor. The rear hub drives puts stress on the spokes so you risk snapping spokes vs the freewheel. So I didn't experience any excessive wear and tear on the freewheel and it took away the ghost pedaling. HOWEVER, I also have a mid drive with this freewheel and it broke one of the gear tooth. Mid drives put a lot of strain on the gears as all the power is in the chain itself. In fact, I am about to wear out my second one. Granted, I've put almost 800 miles on it so maybe I should just consider it "consumable" given the cheap price. Also, when I broke the gear, the company sent me a new freewheel right away. Good customer service.
After seeing this video I thought my cheap Chinese ebike couldn't perform as the lectric but boy was I wrong..I'm getting over 30 mph with stock and all throttle..
What about just buying a battery with a higher amp hour. Notice a lot of people doing that online. Might cost more but a lot easier than changing the freewheel.
Yes, that's my next project is to add a dual battery. There are definitely pros and cons to both. It will add quite a bit of weight and you'll need to decide if you want to run batteries in parallel or switch out. I think if you have both (smaller freewheel and a dual battery setup), you're pretty set for everything.
@@NedRigNerd my apologies, I misunderstood your comment. I did not find a higher ah battery on Lectric's website. There may be an after market battery that fits in the bike frame and connector, but I'm not familiar with it. My fear would be that it doesn't fit correctly. A simple alternative would be to just get a spare.
@@tai.randomthings I just added a 20amp extra battery to the back rack and it is great, where as before I'd charge my battery everyday due to anxiety of running out ..Now I can go several days and not even think about it!...getting the 11-34 put in tomorrow! Part of the reason for the extra battery is I got sick and tired of getting flats so went to motorcycle tires..WOW so much better can actually ride hands free..I ride mostly dirt and desert some streets
@@MrFrodo1111 I put the 11-34T on a different bike, love it. I use it on some intermediate mountain bike trails, works great. Only thing that threw me was I needed to change the chain.
I've seen variations of it. I saw a review once from Bolton ebikes on a support for ebikes. I considered getting one but haven't pulled the trigger. For now, I just do it the old school way (I'm obviously not a professional...haha). What do you think, a "must have"?
@@tai.randomthings just got mine and I will probably put them to work over the weekend but will be useful regardless when biking and you come across something in your tires.
Haha...at my work, they would have my head for doing that...but then again, I don't have all those nice 12 point wrenches at home so you got to improvise. Just got to be willing to accept the consequences. Thanks for the note, I do enjoy engaging/discussing things with you all!
@@PanyingPilot Did it work? I attached a video link below, where I show adjusting derailleur and lubricating the chain if you are interested. ua-cam.com/video/tqrAM75DU-4/v-deo.html
@@tai.randomthings the greatest minded ones share there knowledge to the highest extent of there ability with almost never a thought of recognition, that said the greatest thing is that no recognition is necessary due to the fact that your knowledge will now live on with someone else who will hopefully do the same to get that information around. But I still think ur awesome for helping out man goodnight or goodmorning but have a good one!
Hi. Was doing real well attempting to remove the back wheel on my ST 2.0 to change the freewheel. Carefully cut the zip ties, took lots of pictures too. HOWEVER, I could not even slightly unscrew either axle nuts. It's as if they're welded on. Any suggestions?
Shoots...are you talking about the nuts that lock the wheel to the frame? Have you tried using some liquid wrench or WD40 and let it sit for a bit? One of them was really tight so I had to put my whole body into it. If you have a good 6 point wrench, then I would try to use a cheater bar to get more leverage. Essentially, slip a piece of galvanized pipe over the wrench handle and that gives you more leverage. Just keep an eye on the nut and that you are not slipping or rounding it out.
@@tai.randomthings thanks. I'm a pretty strong guy, yet neither nut would budge. The bike was inverted when I tried to loosen each side. I didn't want to strip or break the axle. I will get some liquid wrench and try to slightly loosen while tires are on the ground, then invert. Thanks again.
Liquid wrench did the trick. Washer under the nut on the brake side of the axle looked crushed, as if it was heavy torqued with an impact wrench. No matter, freewheel changed and really enjoying better speed and better battery performance. Thanks again.
I agree, most people with "this" bike are more cruisers. It's just an option for those that are looking to do a little more. I will say this...before I got my ebike, I didn't even know how to adjust brakes. When I attempted this, I was really nervous, especially since I was recording it. Turns out, it's really not that hard, just need willingness to tinker.
Bike dude, here. Great tutorial! I just bought 2 Lectric XP 2.0 Long Rangers and am doing this mod, as well. A little FYI for the masses that watch. ALWAYS put grease on the freewheel threads when putting the new one, or even old one back on. You'll thank yourself well down the road after years of use. Buy a PARK TOOL FR 1.3 freewheel spline tool. A couple bucks more but a lifetime of service. It's why you see nothing but Park Tool blue in bike shop repair facilities....or in my shop! One more thing I have done on both my XP LR's is put a dab of Dielectric grease on the connectors for the motor and both lights making those connections hydrophobic, corrosion proof, and just a tad bit easier to get them to break apart when you need to disassemble. Some of mine were so incredibly tight that it was tempting to grab the cable cord itself and pull like hell...which is the worst thing to do! Now, it takes effort but they do come apart much easier.
I changed out my flywheel as well, made all the difference in peddling at higher speeds. In my honest opinion, I think this is the gearing that lectric should have came with since the bike can go 28 when set to a class 3.
agree!
They do this to appease the EU markets I think. There's a video of one guy putting a 1600w motor into an Engwe bike (same design) along with the 11 sprocket final gear. The 11 is essential past 20mph.
Great video! I have a XP1.0 that I have put a little over 2000 miles to commute to my job year round. As I am limited to Class 2 in Canada, the clown pedalling effect is not too bad but I still have been considering this upgrade just to get a bit more resistance at higher speeds. I have also watched many posts on how to do this and IMO yours is the best! Well explained, well filmed, and nicely paced. Thanks.
Thank you for the kind feedback. It's a simple modification and I think makes a world of difference. Happy riding to 3000 miles!!!
Thank you for sharing your experience 😊. I'm studying up for my XP 2.0 arrival on Saturday. New sub here.
Thanks! I'm currently waiting for the XPremium. These bikes are so fun, took all my excuses away from me and now I try to go ride around on my ebikes whenever I can (yes, bikes, I've got a problem). Be safe and enjoy the ride!
Ive had this bike for 4 yrs 550 miles 5 close calls or more, then just wiped out on this bike yesterday and got hurt , this bike is not balanced enough for these speeds, im selling it .
Shoots...I can see what you mean. For me, I built a couple of ebikes since my XP got stolen and they are better suited to higher speed. But transporting them in my corolla is sometimes challenging so the folding bikes still have an utility for me. I hope you are all healed up and back on the road!
This is how you can calculate what combination of wheel size, freewheel/ cog teeth, and pedalling cadence is right for you. You just need to do some math.
First, measure the diameter of your wheel. Example 50.8 cm.
Next, find the circumference of the wheel. 3.14 (which is pie) x 50.8 cm = 159.5 cm.
Then, count the number of teeth on your largest front chainring (you might only have 1). Example 52 teeth. Then count the number on the smallest rear cog. Example 12 teeth. Then calculate the gear ratio by dividing the front by the rear. Example 52 ÷ 12 = 4.3. This means every time your pedal cranks make one revolution, the rear wheel will turn 4.3 times.
Next, calculate how far that one pedal revolution (4.3 turns of the rear wheel) will take you. Example 4.3 x 159.5 cm = 691.2 cm
Next you need to know how fast you like to pedal to be comfortable. This is called your preferred pedalling cadence. Ride your bike and spin your legs at a rate that you find comfortable. Next, using a timer on your phone, count how many times you pedal in 10 seconds. Multiply that number by 6. This is your preferred pedalling RPM. Example 11.5 x 6 = 69 RPM.
Take this RPM figure and multiply it by the figure you got for the distance the wheel travels with one pedal revolution. Example 691.2 cm x 69 RPM = 47,692.8 cm.
Multiply this by 60 to get cm per hour. 47,692.8 x 60= 2,861,568 cm/hr.
Then just convert to kph or mph. 28.6 kph or 17.7 mph.
This is how you can calculate what combination of wheel size, freewheel/ cog teeth and pedalling cadence is right for you. Hope this helps.
Thank you for sharing!!!
Thank you for this video. You are correct and hit on all the big issues with this ebike. Most reviews just ignore the overwhelming problems with this product, but you not only call them out, you also provided solutions. The Lectric community is more informed and honest thanks to this video.
Thank you for your kind feedback!
Great video but next time, please use only the correct wrench and not the pliers.
LOL...yes sir! I need to invest in a new set of metrics. Kids take my tools out and then I'm left with the "strip all" wrenches.
Just an FYI, the thing you called a safety bracket on your rear axle, is actually your torque arms, they prevent the axle from twisting inside the frame mount, during acceleration, without them, your bike would destroy itself in just a few miles, so your torque arms are very important.
Thank you for correction. Yes, I was thinking about the part at the time and I realize it was to leverage the motor to the frame. "Torque arm", dang it. Thank you again.
Another great video nice job! I changed my freewheel out as well with the 11-34 to try and get my speed up to over 30 mph, and what I've discovered is, is that the 11 tooth does bring my cadence down, the motor seems to work against me at over 28 mph. That said, I was disappointed not achieving my desired result, however as you point out the big benefit with this swap pays off in the reduced current draw to get greater distances on a battery cycle. If you have steep hills in your area you might consider going with the 11-34, because the 34 makes a big difference on the low end.
Just a side note, and don't quote me on this, but the safety washers you mentioned, might be called torque arms, and I think there primary function is to help keep the axle from spinning in the frame under heavy torque situations.
PS you look like the pounds are falling off man, happy cycling...
@donald. Thanks for the feedback and for correcting the name of the washer. It was the best I can do not calling it a “thingamajig”. Haha. Man, the smaller gear is kicking my butt though. I’m just not in good enough shape to keep the cadence. I actually just got out of the hospital from back surgery. Before the surgery, the bikes help me so much to get stronger and manage the pain.
30 mph…you are an animal, great job!
@@tai.randomthings Awesome, awesome hoping you have a speedy recovery, and your back pain is gone forever.
@@tai.randomthings Great demonstration on changing the flywheel. @donald. If your P08 is at 45 it is normal that anything above it will cause some resistance, i suggest 100 for unlimited. i use 52V on mine and on flat i got it up to 33, 34 mph , but you can not hold it unless your are an Olympian, but it will hold 29, 30 Mph on full charge as your voltage steps below 50V it will be harder to get these speeds. Example for P08 set it 40 and you'll see the resistance coming in at above 24.85 Mph. @Random Things Back to you buddy on the 52v20Ah using theses settings i'll get avg of 43 miles, so you are spot on. My best was 53 miles avg 19mph.
The motor seems to work against you at 28 mph because it no longer provides any thrust at 28 mph. That is no load max rpm. As you approach 28mph the motor hands all power thrust responsibilities to the human pedaler.
The bike is limited to 28 mph so the motor cuts out at 28 mph. to push it to 30 mph you would be the power without the motor. It would get you to 28 then you would have to push or pedal it on up to 30 mph.
I actually understood the concept you speak.
That's the best feedback. Thank you!
Next, upgrade the brake calipees to cable operated hydraulic ones. Big difference. 5 min job.
I have on other home builds but unfortunately, my XP2.0 got stolen. Sucks.
@@tai.randomthings Bummer. My bike was bought for leisure only. No way I'd chain this anywhere. They're like a magnet for theives, I've had some chase me while riding. Go country. :D
@@fraserthomson5766 What's with these people?!
@@Torch4Life Right?! Kids stealing bikes, politicians stealing billions..
Throw away that back shelf behind you, and you Will be in shape like the roadies!!
That's my reward for the motor working hard and me hardly working! LOL, happy riding!
My first view of this channel, subscribed. I would like to do this to my 2.0. Thanks.
Let me know if have any questions but it's pretty straightforward. Happy riding and thanks for the subscription!
i'm looking at getting one of these. i've gotten my bike to 32 mph stock going downhill and peddling like a mad man
Ghost pedaling can get a little scary
I've had my bike up to 65...granted it was on the bike rack on the back of the van but..lol
@@MrFrodo1111 haha
11-34 is where its at though... Best of both worlds, speed and climbs. Lectric didnt go with the 11 tooth on the low end because it puts alot more torque on the motor and could lower the lifespan.
For me, it was more for the top end speed but you're right, the 11-34 would give the whole range you'll need.
I'm not sure the part about the higher torque is true. Where did you hear that?
@@turbofan450 i mean anyone with half a brain can think about it, less gears on the small sproket is very hard to pedal normally , its the same stress on the engine and why we move gears up to get up hills.
@@FriarPop the hub motor is not affected by the gears on the freewheel. The hub motor doesn't care what gear you're in or how fast or hard you're pedaling. Any force transmitted through the freewheel goes through the motor casing and then onto the spokes. The motor itself doesn't know or care about the gearing.
Now if you were talking about a Mid drive motor and the chain having to pull a small cog, then that would make more sense...
@@turbofan450 when im in pedal assist that chain is spinning, and i can tell the motor is getting bogged down less with the new gears.
What you did not say is that the new gearing helps you pedal more at ALL SPEEDS so that you will increase your range and get more exercise.
True!
Do your wheels spin for a good amount of time when you spin them while lifted on a bike maintenance stand? Mine stop quick, so there is a bunch of drag somewhere. Is there a way to fix that?
Mine does spin. Most likely, it's your brakes. If you shine a light on the other side of the brakes while you are looking at it (so back light it), it may be easier to see. Here is a good video if you are not familiar.
ua-cam.com/video/NmqGeLNcVIg/v-deo.html
I got my XP in July. I changed the freewheel out before I even rode it. I did a lot of mods that day. It's by far the best ebike out there IMO. I also changed the rotor to 180mm & a Zoom Hydro brake unit. You need a 180mm brake adaptor. Couple bucks.
Interested, I haven't thought about changing the brakes until you mentioned it. Are there benefits other than the obvious? Thanks for the feedback.
You nailed it! This is my biggest problem with the bike too--only had it a few days. Also like your Tarantino esk editing timeline!
Thanks. It's an easy modification. Happy riding!
Ahhh! An alchoholic. I better get out of here before he starts yelling at me.
Would this also increase the mileage on the battery at 10-15 mph? Just curious?
Yes, the whole as long as you are assisting the motor and not letting the motor do all the work.
Might amaze everyone. I want to get a new free wheel, since I use the throttle all the time and I get no resistance presently. Technically, my State does not allow us to have a Class 3 EBike.
I have heard of changing the free wheel, but no one tells about saving Amps as the best reason to do it!
Yes...pedal power supplements battery power. How strict is your state about Class 3?
Will this work with a Mars HeyBike??? The bikes look the same???
Yes, as long as you have a 7 speed freewheel. I did the same change to many of my other bikes, like the Jupiter defiant.
I did the change and the new freewheel works just as you said it would. Thanks for the great improvement riding my Mars HeyBike!
@@stevebrighttheblackguitar653 Glad it worked out...happy riding!
I changed my freewheel on my 1.0 but when changing gears, it doesn't go onto the 1st (biggest) gear, and it's clunky when shifting. Does my derailer need to be adjusted?
Yes, sounds like you need to adjust your derailer.
Thank you for the info. It is cool to the voltage as that is a good indicator as to where you are before the bikes electric assistance is to shutting off. Are you able to see how many watts are being generated from you and the motor?
Also if the resistance is not too much at the moment you may want to consider a 9 tooth cog and or a bigger chainring tooth count.
I am not able to see the watts, I wish I could because then I can put all the variables into context. I thought about a 9 tooth but at this point, I am not strong enough for it, some day. Thanks for the comments!
The disadvantage is that a 11 x 32 (28) is harder to find plus they cost more money than a 14 x tooth freewheel. I find I have to replace the freewheel every bike season as the 11 tooth gear wears out faster than a 14 tooth gear. When I find a good price for a 11 tooth freewheel I normally buy two at a time. It does go farther and faster.
true...and good idea to buy two. Are you riding a hub drive? I am surprised to hear that it wore out that quick on a hub drive. How many miles do you put on in a season?
I wish Lectric would put this new freewheel on the bike from the factory or at least offer it as an option. The first two gears (28 tooth and 24 tooth) stay the same. The sixth gear has 13 teeth which is close enough to the 14 tooth seventh gear on the original setup. Thanks for the video.
Lectic has upgraded the 3.0 to include the 11t-28t freewheel. Unfortuantely, you still have to swap it on the 2.0. Thanks for watching.
So you had to change out the whole gear set instead of just the high gear. Handy. Thanks for the information. Good video. You did show the teeth per gear on the new one, how does that compare with the OEM set?
The Lectric (and most bikes in this category) have a "freewheel", where all 7 cogs are part of one mechanism. Some high end road and mountain bikes have "cassette" vs a "freewheel". Cassettes allow you to change individual cogs but not freewheels.
In this case, it is the smallest cog that affects the "ghost pedeling". The OEM cog (7th gear) has 14 teeth. The one I changed to in this video has 11 teeth, which allows you to keep on cranking to help the motor at the highest speed settings. I hope this is what you are asking about. If not, let me know and we can dive into it more. Safe riding.
So if I dont want to unlock my bike for faster speeds will this still help my mileage?
if you are not riding faster than 20 mph, the stock gear ratio should be sufficient. But if you feel like even at the speed that you are riding, you are "ghost" pedalling, then changing the free wheel will help. Ghost pedalling is when you pedal but don't feel any resistance, kind of like when you spin the crank backwards and don't feel any resistance. I hope that makes sense.
Good video but the channel locks are killin me bro. I wanna buy you a wrench 😂
LOL...what's wrong with the "strip all"? I know I should invest in a nice set of wrenches but I get lazy.
Hi man i have an ADO 20 F with Shimano freewheel. Do you think with this Drift Maníac from Ali Express y can have more range in distancie? Ado batteries are very bad.
I am not familiar with ADO 20F but if you are ghost pedaling than adding a freewheel that has 28-11t will help (I am assuming you are riding on a 28-14t). But I am not sure how much more you need? Have you also trying being more steady when you ride?
Hmmm...just looked it up. It's a 36V battery. I couldn't not find the spec on the stock freewheel but I am guessing it's a 28-14t so the drift maniac should help. But the bike could be too small for you depending on the terrain, that could be why you are burning through your battery.
ABOUT THE DERAILLEUR?
You started talking about it it looked like you weren't a great position to show us how to adjust it but then you didn't do anything or mention it anymore.
Did you need to adjust the derailleur?
I apologize. You shouldn't need to adjust the derailleur (at least I didn't) but I had tuned my derailleur before. If you are not familiar to adjusting derailleurs, Park Tools has an awesome video on how to.
ua-cam.com/video/UkZxPIZ1ngY/v-deo.html
@@tai.randomthings thank you so much love your videos!!!
@@thefix-itguyreviewer8151 Thanks!
@@tai.randomthings FYI I watched that park tool derailleur video I like park tools but it seems like they make things more complicated than it has to be.
Almost like they try to make it look like it's difficult cuz they want you to bring it to a shop or something.
It's really so much more simpler than the way they show it to adjust these derailleurs. It's your only literally take you a couple of minutes to do it.
Got one of the Lectric Premium long range (two batteries) bikes. After about a 100 miles, the Derailleur was a little off. I messed with it and made it worse. Bike is at the bike shop getting the Derailleur adjusted. With the new cassette, did you have to adjust the Derailleur? My stock one is 34/24/21, can't see the other gears....Rode mine 42 miles the other day at PAS3 5th gear, around 16mph. When I got home I still had 46% battery.
I do check the derailleur when I first get the bike to make sure the shifting works properly. I have the XPremium as well and I do have to change the chain and freewheel after a while so I adjust the derailleur after the change. I have a video that shows how I adjust the Lectric derailleur. I put a link to the video. Go to the 28 minute mark to see the derailleur adjustment.
I am guessing you have a 12t to 34t freewheel. Meaning your smallest cog is 12 tooth sprocket. On PAS3, I typically ride in 4th or 5th gear. Seems to work well for me on the XPremium. As for the percentage reading on the display, it's a good estimate but better if you pay attention to the actual voltage remaining. I think you are doing good with your milage vs battery remaining.
ua-cam.com/video/tqrAM75DU-4/v-deo.html
@@tai.randomthings Messing with the derailleur is why it's at the shop getting adjusted! It wouldn't go into 1st gear after I messed with it and the chain would jump on gear 5. There are are an A and B screw and and the cable adjustment, what does the 3rd screw do on it?
@@tai.randomthings So If I understand this correctly, Loosen the cable first BEFORE turning the A and B screws to make adjustments. I could never see my derailleur moving because I didn't loosen the cable.
You did a great job on the vid, but that cheap freewheel removal tool that you used, strips easily.. i couldn’t remove the freewheel once it started to strip.. i ordered the chrome plated one that is offered for about $17. As an accessory.. the fit on the spline is much tighter on the stock freewheel that i had removed.. i have yet to use the new tool, but i will soon..
@chuck jansen, thank you for the compliment and you are 100% right. When I opened the tool, it felt cheap and I was hoping it would last this project. However, I would not call it a forever tool. I did buy a chrome one from amazon as a back up/something different. Didn't end up needed it so I returned it. Hope you project goes smooth now. Thanks again.
Always buy Park Tools for repair work. The FR 1.3 is the one you need for this Shimano spline and I guarantee you won't be replacing it in your lifetime unless a friend forgets to return it or it gets stolen!
awesome video, keep it up!
Thanks!
Could you copy the link cheetah product that you use on Amazon
@ebttt, first link is the tool, second is the gear:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0718XPC51/
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYNSHZC/
I will also put the link in the description in case this copy paste didn't work...sorry, newbie at this. Forgive me.
You don’t have to take the nuts off when removing the wheel.
Are you referring to removing the wheel from the frame or removing the freewheel?
Hey! Great video thank you! So i went through everything but can't seem to get oast 20 still, on PAS 5. Gear won't go past 5 either. Could that be the issue? Please lmk.
Thanka!
Hi, I am assuming you have the XP 2.0 and you have unlocked the bike so that it is a Class 3 and the program lets you go beyond 20 mph. Having said that, I think you have two separate issues.
1. Are you trying to go faster than 20 mph on throttle only? If so, Lectric programs the bike so that it will NOT go faster than 20 mph on throttle only, even if it's unlocked. You have to engage the motor by pedaling. Good thing is you don't have to pedal hard, you just need to rotate the cranks and the sensor will pick it up.
2. If you cannot go beyond 5th gear, either your derailleur needs adjusting or your derailleur protector bracket is bent and hitting you derailleur and preventing you from shifting into your smaller gears. If you look at your derailleur and it is making contact with the protector bracket, just pull the bracket outward until it won't obstruct the derailleur. It still so you may need a pair of pliers to help but definately doable. If it's just adjusting your derailleur, below is a link on me adjusting the derailleur. It's a long video for the XPremium but the adjustment is the same for the XP. Go to the 28 minute mark to get to the section on derailleur adjustment.
ua-cam.com/video/tqrAM75DU-4/v-deo.html
Hope this solves your problem. If not, please comment back and I will try my best to help you troubleshoot. Good luck and happy riding!
@@tai.randomthingsthank you so much for the assistance!! Did not change to class 3 so I'll do that first check out if the derailer was the issues. Appreciate all the details in your response
@@007GoodKnight No problem and good luck. let me know if you have more questions and I will try to help. Happy riding!
Love my Lectric XP 2.0 I’ve been thinking of doing that upgrade also. BTW, I couldn’t stop looking at all of those bottles on your top shelf 😅
LOL...the top shelf bottles are the little rewards after a good ride! Changing the freewheel is super easy and definitely worth doing for the 2.0. Happy riding!
How this workout for you. I noticed on some reviews of this on Amazon. The modification made noise the metal was wobbly. Cleaning the metal wasn't as strong as the original.
What are your thoughts. Also I don't know if it matters if you're a big guy but I way over 300 lb The bike can handle 330
I wonder if that will affect and show the weakness of the medal because of my size.
That hub is so inexpensive but the Shimano version is a lot more expensive I wonder if it's just better made..
I use it for my Lectric before it was stolen and my Jupiter Defiant. I love it. I'm a 220 pounder and I don't think it makes a difference for a rear hub motor. The rear hub drives puts stress on the spokes so you risk snapping spokes vs the freewheel. So I didn't experience any excessive wear and tear on the freewheel and it took away the ghost pedaling.
HOWEVER, I also have a mid drive with this freewheel and it broke one of the gear tooth. Mid drives put a lot of strain on the gears as all the power is in the chain itself. In fact, I am about to wear out my second one. Granted, I've put almost 800 miles on it so maybe I should just consider it "consumable" given the cheap price.
Also, when I broke the gear, the company sent me a new freewheel right away. Good customer service.
Very informative sir thank you
hope it helped!
After seeing this video I thought my cheap Chinese ebike couldn't perform as the lectric but boy was I wrong..I'm getting over 30 mph with stock and all throttle..
That's fantastic...thanks for the feedback. Happy riding!
Work on your sound quality
My apologies. I have started to use a mic in my videos now but when that video was made, there was a lot of trail ane errer.
Just buy the larger battery
The larger battery is going to give you more range, not help with ghost peddling .
What about just buying a battery with a higher amp hour. Notice a lot of people doing that online. Might cost more but a lot easier than changing the freewheel.
Yes, that's my next project is to add a dual battery. There are definitely pros and cons to both. It will add quite a bit of weight and you'll need to decide if you want to run batteries in parallel or switch out. I think if you have both (smaller freewheel and a dual battery setup), you're pretty set for everything.
@@tai.randomthings I didn't say run two batteries. I said get a battery with higher amp hour rating.
@@NedRigNerd my apologies, I misunderstood your comment. I did not find a higher ah battery on Lectric's website. There may be an after market battery that fits in the bike frame and connector, but I'm not familiar with it. My fear would be that it doesn't fit correctly. A simple alternative would be to just get a spare.
@@tai.randomthings I just added a 20amp extra battery to the back rack and it is great, where as before I'd charge my battery everyday due to anxiety of running out ..Now I can go several days and not even think about it!...getting the 11-34 put in tomorrow! Part of the reason for the extra battery is I got sick and tired of getting flats so went to motorcycle tires..WOW so much better can actually ride hands free..I ride mostly dirt and desert some streets
@@MrFrodo1111 I put the 11-34T on a different bike, love it. I use it on some intermediate mountain bike trails, works great. Only thing that threw me was I needed to change the chain.
You ever heard of the Handle Bar Jack V2?
I've seen variations of it. I saw a review once from Bolton ebikes on a support for ebikes. I considered getting one but haven't pulled the trigger. For now, I just do it the old school way (I'm obviously not a professional...haha). What do you think, a "must have"?
@@tai.randomthings just got mine and I will probably put them to work over the weekend but will be useful regardless when biking and you come across something in your tires.
@@Trillville43 Thanks, I will look into those.
So I guess those chanel locks didn't work on your brand new bike just strip that bolt
Haha...at my work, they would have my head for doing that...but then again, I don't have all those nice 12 point wrenches at home so you got to improvise. Just got to be willing to accept the consequences. Thanks for the note, I do enjoy engaging/discussing things with you all!
Any reference on the freewheel please??
Here is a link to the freewheel I used. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYNSHZC/
Thank you!!
Have you experienced and resolved a click once per revolution while pedalling the 2.0?
I have not on the 2.0 but I have on my XPremium. It was related to a worn chain. Try cleaning and lubricating the chain, that may help. Good luck!
@@tai.randomthings Tks,GM
@@PanyingPilot Did it work? I attached a video link below, where I show adjusting derailleur and lubricating the chain if you are interested. ua-cam.com/video/tqrAM75DU-4/v-deo.html
@@tai.randomthings RT, thanks for the link and advice. I will run through these procedures and hope fornthe best.
@@tai.randomthings RT, I will check out the video and start the diagnostics. Appreciated. GM
Great video man still very useful to this day thanks again to you! ❤
I'm glad it's still helpful. Thank you for your kind words!
@@tai.randomthings the greatest minded ones share there knowledge to the highest extent of there ability with almost never a thought of recognition, that said the greatest thing is that no recognition is necessary due to the fact that your knowledge will now live on with someone else who will hopefully do the same to get that information around. But I still think ur awesome for helping out man goodnight or goodmorning but have a good one!
Hi. Was doing real well attempting to remove the back wheel on my ST 2.0 to change the freewheel. Carefully cut the zip ties, took lots of pictures too. HOWEVER, I could not even slightly unscrew either axle nuts. It's as if they're welded on. Any suggestions?
Shoots...are you talking about the nuts that lock the wheel to the frame? Have you tried using some liquid wrench or WD40 and let it sit for a bit? One of them was really tight so I had to put my whole body into it. If you have a good 6 point wrench, then I would try to use a cheater bar to get more leverage. Essentially, slip a piece of galvanized pipe over the wrench handle and that gives you more leverage. Just keep an eye on the nut and that you are not slipping or rounding it out.
@@tai.randomthings thanks. I'm a pretty strong guy, yet neither nut would budge. The bike was inverted when I tried to loosen each side. I didn't want to strip or break the axle. I will get some liquid wrench and try to slightly loosen while tires are on the ground, then invert. Thanks again.
@@lgbtrain1 Shoots...hope the liquid wrench works. Good luck.
Liquid wrench did the trick. Washer under the nut on the brake side of the axle looked crushed, as if it was heavy torqued with an impact wrench. No matter, freewheel changed and really enjoying better speed and better battery performance. Thanks again.
@@lgbtrain1 That's great! Happy riding.
Great video. This a good tip.
Thanks!
Thank you!
Hope it helped...ride on!
Great video!
Thanks!
You won’t get decent range at 20 mph, no matter what gearing you have. There is far too much wind resistance with the upright riding position.
This! The speed change from tail wind to head wind is very noticeable.
Watching this guy work with tools is freighting! And this video could have easily been 4 to 5 minutes long if he wasnt so fond of his own voice.
No worth the effort, avg person will not attempt this and your local bike shop will probably charge you 300 at least to do this
I agree, most people with "this" bike are more cruisers. It's just an option for those that are looking to do a little more. I will say this...before I got my ebike, I didn't even know how to adjust brakes. When I attempted this, I was really nervous, especially since I was recording it. Turns out, it's really not that hard, just need willingness to tinker.
I just changed the Freewheel on my XP 2.0 today. It wasn't that difficult. Just follow the UA-cam directions.
Bike dude, here. Great tutorial! I just bought 2 Lectric XP 2.0 Long Rangers and am doing this mod, as well.
A little FYI for the masses that watch. ALWAYS put grease on the freewheel threads when putting the new one, or even old one back on. You'll thank yourself well down the road after years of use. Buy a PARK TOOL FR 1.3 freewheel spline tool. A couple bucks more but a lifetime of service. It's why you see nothing but Park Tool blue in bike shop repair facilities....or in my shop!
One more thing I have done on both my XP LR's is put a dab of Dielectric grease on the connectors for the motor and both lights making those connections hydrophobic, corrosion proof, and just a tad bit easier to get them to break apart when you need to disassemble. Some of mine were so incredibly tight that it was tempting to grab the cable cord itself and pull like hell...which is the worst thing to do! Now, it takes effort but they do come apart much easier.
Great advice, thanks for sharing!