I worked for Control Data many years ago. They used pure alcohol, 196 proof ever-clear, to clean and remove oil or other contaminants from electronics boards and components. I refurbished damaged large industrial storage drives. Rubbing alcohol contains oil or glycerin that leaves a residue when the alcohol , which is generally 70%, evaporates. Ever-clear is more expensive but leaves behind zero residue.
My front stock Tektro mechanical caliper died after about 15 months and 1600 miles. I babied them, they had original pads with plenty of life, they had about the same amount of pad at 1600 miles as yours at 300, but the caliper failed. The install was a piece of cake. It almost took as long getting the bike on the stand as changing the caliper out. At first, the spokes rubbed on the caliper, but I just loosened the mounting allen bolts and pushed the caliper away from the spokes a hair and they don't rub anymore. I used the original mounting brackets. The install only took 6-7 minutes and it's the first time I've done a caliper change and I haven't even watched the video in about a year. I am very impressed. These brakes stop the bike significantly faster than the Tektro's. Hopefully, they will last longer than the stock brakes and just as a note, my original pads didn't have the top not wear and the top of the pads don't extend above the rotor on the new Zoom install.
Hi, I got my XP 2.0 last Saturday. I put Zoom X Tech hydros on both ends. The 4 month wait was more than worth it. I have every mod you do. This bike is so sweet. I almost forgot to remove the washer when I changed the freewheel. This bike is worth twice what they are charging for it. I have 91 miles on it so far. I also followed the observation & knocked a 16th off the bracket. We have a machine shop.
I got myself a SAMEBIKE xwxl09 which looks almost the same as the lectric xp. The stock mech breaks wasn't good, so I had to get hydraulic breaks for it but realised that I needed to get the motor cut off switch to function which I had to order it separately. Then the hydraulic cables were too short, and had to get new cables setup with the bike tech to get a good fit. I had to install the engine cut-off etc works well and all, but was a hassle to install. If I only knew these existed I would have spent only less than half of what I did to upgrade the whole thing. I got them installed now on my wife's HIMO and works awesome! great vid!
If you look at the new brackets they are marked with the size you want to use the one marked F180 R160 for the rear wheel. It looks like you put the bracket for the front on the back. The other one is marked F160 R140. Check the markings on the bracket of the one you have not changed yet. Maybe yours were not marked but the set I got was.
My new ones were not marked but the old ones are and I tried them all and used the one that lined up the best. I’m pretty sure it’s the correct one because the other brackets were not even close.
I just installed mine today. They are far and away the best upgrade I have done to this bike. I have gotten used to hydraulic brakes on my other bikes and I thought these would be a minor upgrade at best. I was dead wrong, these are amazing. Thanks for video, keep them coming.
you are going deep into the details with the HB-100, really helpful! I've been riding these brakes front and rear for half a year and I didn't even notice the small adjustment screw. Now they work great 😅
Jeremiah, you have a wonderful “presentation” ability for making videos. And, great subject matter too. You singlehandedly convinced me to purchase an XP. Keep up with the fine reporting. Also, keep that cute son riding in the background.
Thank you for helping me understand how to set my 'cruise control' in one of your videos. It was never clear enough before for me to get it. Maintain speed with hand throttle, then hold down the minus button for a count of two or three and you will see the PAS window change to 'Cruise.'
MY XPremium comes with hydraulics. Put the brakes you have on the rear of my inexpensive Vivi 500W folder with 2X20 tires, Rear brakes only cost me $16. Easy to install. I used bracket that came with brake. Fit perfect.
I, too, did the HB-100 upgrade on front and rear. Not wanting to experience the spoke interference that Sonny Whitehurst had when installing the front caliper, I upgraded my front rotor to 180mm to move the caliper further away from the spokes. Everything went together perfectly without any problems whatsoever. I love the easy installation of the new hydraulic calipers when compared to getting the mechanical calipers aligned to the rotor. Once and done with the hydraulics! Thank you Jeremiah for your inspiration.
Jeremiah thank you for the video BUT, BED IN in your brake pads against your rotors gradually in order to transfer (inbed) your brake pad material onto the rotors. This will increase your breaking and stopping performance, provide consistent breaking all along the rotor while riding and protect your brake pads from over heating and glazing over. See videos about properly bedding in new brake pads. I have ordered a set of these HB 100 brake calipers. My mechanical calipers I no longer trust and are too troublesome to adjust.
Thanks Jeremiah, I'm looking forward to you doing the fronts too. I would do them both at the same time, just for new and new! I like seeing your riding partner keeping pace with you. He doesn't let you get ahead and he knows the camera angles very well!
Great video very descriptive. I discovered just yesterday that my brake pads were sitting above the rotor by about a third resulting in a 33% loss of rear braking power. I have been contemplating upgrading to these exact calipers for better braking but now that I see this helped you marginally with the same issue I had, I am ordering these calipers tonight.
Awww is that a lil baby ebike so cute to see u on dad mode and still working u should feature yo babies more it will make yo views go higher i promise u
As others have mentioned, you may have to file down your brackets to seat the pads correctly on the rotor. The rotor will get razor sharp and the pads will squeak like crazy if not seated correctly. Good video. Thanks.
Interesting video, the caliper design in novel in that the hydraulics is build in to the caliper itself. Saves the hassle of running hydraulic lines and bleeding the system.
Good Move.... did the same setup last month. I did had to burn mine in.... 3 or 4 Real Hard Stops.There is a different between the Mechanical vs Hydraulic Brakes stop power...
You can't change anything unless you move the bracket mounting hole. All interchange parts are based off of those two mounting holes and brackets are adjusted for different size rotors.
Adjust the cables at the wheel end, not the lever end, you can end up cutting the motor which will give you an on screen error message, Pull the cable tight from the brake end, tighten the cable with the caliper lever held slightly in, or use the adjusters at the brake end . Also, if your cable frays changing over you can feed a new one down the outer sleeve from the bar end without removing the whole thing. Best to cap the cables before adjusting or tightening to lessen the chances of cable fray though.
I'm a man of few words I really do enjoy your videos I've learned so much about the product getting ready to order one in the next couple weeks once again thank you very much J Ember
Hey. On my Pedal-bike, my front brake will scream if I touch it lightly! Much better than a bell. People really move when they think that they are about to get hit. ☺
Very informative! I really appreciate the quality of your videos. I would love to see a video of you twisting around to get a good shot of the brakes in action towards the end. 😂 Well done!
I added the rear brake and had to reverse the old mount to the back. (New brake, old bracket to bike) Then I added two washers in between the (bracket and the brake)to the bottom bolt which made the rotor sit perfect in the pads. Took about an hour to figure out the right set up for more meet of the pad on the rotor. Now it sits in there perfect
Jeremiah: Another excellent DIY video! I'm strongly considering the 'Lectric Xp E Bike ... and have really been enjoying your insight regarding "needed" upgrades to the bike itself! The upgrades make complete sense to me, and the DIY videos have been informative ... especially since I, too, am a "backyard" (actually, "basement") mechanic in my retired years! Thanks again for posting this video. I am looking forward to viewing more from you! Keep up the good work! (p.s. Enjoying the special sound effects from the neighboring gun club! Reminds me of my own neighborhood here in Cincinnati, as there is an apparent feral coyote problem ... at least, in the minds of some of my neighbors (who are CCW licensees, as I am)!
I believe that cable would’ve worked it’s definitely long enough it’s just the way it’s wrapped with all the other cables. I was not able to bring it in closer to the bike up front without unwrapping it. Break adjustment should not be an issue from the bolt on the caliber that I show in my video which takes place of the other two bolts that are normally used for adjustment on the cable.
I did the same brake swap about a week ago. I'm pretty happy with mine but have a running battle keeping the front brake from developing a very loud squeak after a few miles. I've cleaned the rotors and tried realigning the calipers but it keeps coming back. I think the next step is to replace the pads with resin. I found some on Amazon with good reviews for less than $10 total for front & back, so I'll give that a shot. Also, the front brake seemed noticeably stronger than stock, the rear slightly less than stock. Weird, huh? Another great video, keep us posted on the display issue and when you switch out the front brake also.
I definitely will thanks. My new brakes came with resin pads and I can’t comment on the front because I haven’t changed it yet but the back no squeaks at all! Did you have to change your caliper bracket also? Did yours sit all the way down onto the rotor or did they hang off just slightly like mine?
I changed one bracket and used the stock one on the other. Trouble is, now I can't remember which end got the new bracket. I may experiment with that today, maybe their labeling will help. New pads are en route from Amazon, arriving Monday. A big Part of my problems is the fact that I don't have a bike stand for working on the bike. I have the 11-28 Freewheel and the tool came yesterday from China for $2.@@JeremiahMcintosh
Nice! This what is the first time I used the bike stand and it definitely made it convenient for working on the back wheel especially if you have to do break adjustments or adjustment on the derailer .
Thanks for the great tutorial!! Looks like a no brainer. I see that you haven't got a solution for the speedo problem. What does XP say? Watching other bikes being reviewed there apparently a sensor that tells the controller how fast you are going, could that be out of adjustment/lost? In your earlier videos, you pointed out that the miles traveled were off. Mine was also off, but by changing the wheel size in program 06, it's pretty close to an app on the phone.
Jeremiah, Your cable housing became too short when, at 12:41, you decided to use the new bracket and reversed it to shift the caliper. It didn't seem to help you much and caused the cable housing adjustment issue. The frame mounting holes for the brake bracket are not placed precisely, and are causing your pad to rotor alignment problem. At this point, the best (only?) place to address this is by machining/grinding/sanding the mounting bracket to fit.
I got my lectric ebike and the stock brakes are not that great. Your video is so detailed and helpful to any DIY. am changing the calipers soon. Thanks for this videos, they truly help
I think I accidentally broke my brake pads in pretty good I rode them for a couple hundred miles without adjusting the brakes and they almost wouldn't stop until I adjusted them but when I finally did squeak free and It'll throw you over the handlebars if you pull to hard as a guy that grew up with v brakes those tecktro on an XP are pretty damn good right out of the box.
Hi Jeremiah, very informative video, one question my regular brakes are very squeaky, will the hydraulic conversion brakes to that too? I tried to clean them often, but they always squeak. Thanks
Jeremiah, Update ~ My HB-100 hydraulic brakes came in today (Wed.) and I installed them. As we discussed, I machined 1/16" off the rear brake mounting bracket contact surface so the brake pads would make complete contact with the brake disc. Now the top edge of the pads line up with the outer edge of the disc. Note in the attached pics, that this alignment problem was worse on the front brake. I machined 1/16" off its mounting bracket, the same as the rear. I know at the time of your video you had not installed the front hydraulic brake. Have you installed it yet? If so did you run into the problems that I did? After installation, I kept getting a scraping sound when I rotated the front wheel. At first I thought it was the disc scraping the pads. After about a half hour of trying to adjust the pads and the disc appeared to be true, I realized that it had to be something else. It was ~ one of my spokes was slightly scraping the brake housing. Just one spoke, but the other outside laced spokes were mighty close to scraping. With the brake disc at its present location, there was just not enough clearance to adjust the brake caliper outward to clear the spoke. So, I had to remove the brake disc and place washers between the brake hub and the disc. Now there is enough clearance so the spoke no longer scrapes the brake housing. Also, on the front brake, I had to put an extra washer on the bottom screw of the brake mounting bracket at the fork lug to give enough clearance between the threaded end of the screw and the brake disc. Attached are a couple of pics. Pic of the brake pads at 1600 miles of wear. The front brake pads had about half as much wear as the rear. The other pic shows modification to correct the spoke scraping the brake housing. s1135.photobucket.com/user/ECCCVettes/media/Brake%20Pad%20Wear_zpsclv3xuar.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1 s1135.photobucket.com/user/ECCCVettes/media/Brake%20Spoke%20Clearance_zpsyo7qbgvb.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
Sonny thank you for the excellent details! I have not replaced the front calipers yet so I cannot compare. Seems like a lot of hassle but I’m glad you got them working. We’re you able to use the original mounting bracket or the new one? Also did you have a problem with the brake cable like I did?
@@JeremiahMcintosh Yes and no ~ I used the original mounting bracket on the rear (I machined/ground down the brake mounting surface down 1/16") and I used the new mounting bracket on the front and ground it down the same as the rear bracket. I used the original bracket on the rear because it positioned the brake housing closer to the brake cable. I did not have any problem with the brake cable. I'm NOT going to do a video on the brake installation since you have already made one. Are you planning to make a Part 2 on the installation of the front brake? If so you might want to mention the problems that I had. The problem with the spoke scraping the brake housing may have been a fluke since only one spoke was scraping. Any way, the spokes are mighty close to the brake housing. The reason that the bottom mounting screw hit the brake disc was a result of the washers that I had placed between the brake disc hub and the disc. The washers shifted the disc about 1/32" outward placing it closer to the brake assembly. Things are mighty tight around that area. One little change may effect something else. If you want to use the pics I posted in my comments above, feel free to do so. I haven't had a chance to test ride yet, but will test the new brakes by the end of the day. I'll let you know the results.
Awesome! Definitely do update us on your opinion of them after you have ridden a few miles. The one thing I noticed about the resin pads is that there is no squeal at all but if you’re going down a long decline after the brakes heat up there is slightly less stopping power. I like that I kept the ceramics upfront to give me that extra stopping power if needed. If I install though hydraulics upfront I may buy a set of semi metallic pads for just the front and keep the resin pads on the back.
Well, I rode about 5 miles this afternoon to check out the new brakes. First thing I notice was how quiet they are. I hear nothing when applying the rear brake and very little noise when apply the front brake. These brakes rate at a solid 5 stars out of 5 stars on the noise scale, where the stock brakes scored 2 to 3 stars. From what I can tell so far, I have more stopping power. This could be because of the additional surface area of the pads to the disc due to the machining of the brake mounting bracket. I don't have any hills around my neighborhood, so I could not test the brakes for heating effect going down hill. These brakes are sooo much easier to adjust than the stock brakes and the brake lever arm travel is much less than the stock which makes the handlebar hand brake lever travel range much less too. This is a good up grade. I'm glad I made the change.👍 🚴♂️
Awesome glad you liked it. I may end up taking my back bracket off and sanding it down to make them fit a little better as you did. Thank you for your update and opinion you always describe things really well!👍
Hi Jeremiah, Great video! One question. I would like to upgrade to the Hydraulic brake system because mine squeal like crazy and after watching your video, I think they might be a nice upgrade. I have a Lectric 2.0 the easy step in one, do these fit that? Thanks! Keep up the great work!
Hey bro good video I've got a question for you my bike was squeaking I have a ebkarocy ebike and the front wheel was squeaking and I believe I adjust the spokes too tight because now there's a wobble in it how do you true the wheel back to its normal State the easiest way
Hi, been watching most of your videos on this XP reviews, and maintenance tips because I have an ebike with similar looks and features... About the brake system you installed, maybe the mounting was designed to accommodate for a 180mm diameter of disc rotors, if your XP currently has 160mm disc. If you plan to replace them with the 180mm disc, it should go all the way inside the brake caliper. Ride safe and enjoy👍🚴😊🇵🇭
I'm installing mine on the mars HeyBike this Saturday! When will you show the fronts? I suppose they are about the same process. Thanks for the insperaration. The new freewheel is working just great too.
Jeremiah, I ordered a set of semi metallic pads on Amazon when I ordered the same caliper set you have. I have the pads, but the calipers are months out, according to Amazon. I'm willing to compare dimensions of the pads I have, to the pads that came with your calipers. Assuming you still have not installed the front. Let me know. The pads I have are made by Dymoece, SCP-LX-Semi, SKU X0011V89RKP. Like I said, not sure they are the correct ones.
Ordered me a pair of the HB-100 today. My XP has over 1400 miles on it. May be time for a pad replacement. I hate adjusting the stock calipers because of the single sided piston which make alignment a hassle. Maybe the hydraulic calipers with a piston on each side will be easier to adjust. A little extra money may be well worth it in the long run. Good Video!
Thanks Sonny. 😯Dang you’ve been putting some miles on! The easier adjustment is definitely going to be nice and so far I am very happy with the upgrade! Does your rear brake pads sit up slightly higher on the rotor like mine?
I did look but without taking the pad out of calipers it is hard to tell, however it did appear that the pad may be slightly above the disc. Once I get the new calipers and remove the stock calipers, I'll let you know if the pads are not completely covering the disc. If they aren't, I will be grinding the mounting bracket enough to get the pads aligned for complete contact with the disc.
Thanks For checking Sonny. I’ve been thinking of doing the same with mine. My old ones were wore down to where the tops of both pads were touching when you squeeze them.
Great video, very informative. I was wondering if you ever thought of testing different tires for the Lectric XP. I personally would like to know how it affects performance.
Be careful going down a hill at 30 MPH. I just wrecked my lectric going about 27 Mph down a sidewalk when my bike slid. The thing about e bikes is they can easily become unstable and you may slide by the slightest disruption. Mind you I didn't hit anything I think their was a slight bump on the sidewalk but that was it. Luckily I am fine and only suffer minor road rash but the average person would have likely taken a much bigger beating. I think my Judo for that literally.
@@JeremiahMcintosh Thanks, I scuffed my handle bars up a bit and my gear switch is broken but other than that for the most part the bike Is fine. I actually think at times it better to ride in the road with how fast these bikes can go. Currently my bike is in a shop because the chain was derailed and is stuck in the gear shaft. My leg is scrapped up a bit and so is my arm but it's nothing really serious and as contrary as it may seem when you know you are falling the best thing to do is not to try to stop the fall but to relax your body.
So, I have a coswheel t20. Is the size of the caliper universal? I currently have shimano disc brakes and really want to upgrade. Also, I have heard about abs brakes for bikes, any thoughts? Thanks for a great video! Subscribed!
Hi Jeremiah like your presentation very much and one question about hydolic brake that does it make your lever nice and easy squeezing the lever than the manual brake thanks
Hey Jeremiah, Thank you for making these videos, it has been helpful for me to find which E-bike I want and how to upgrade it. Can you make a video on how you clean and maintain your E-bike. Also, I would like to know if I can change the wheel to a bigger size. Looking forward to your response.
nice of you to epxlain how to adjust the mechanical rotor, I might pick up one of these bikes, if you had to pedal one without a motor geometry wise, im wondering what would have the edge, the step through model or the original, the pedals are set back in location a bit on one of the two
Honestly I like them both about the same it would be a really tough decision to decide which one. I like the way my black bike looks But I really like the step through also. Honestly that’s a tough question LOL.
Interesting I never seen hydraulic brakes like that you'll have to let us know how they work out, very curious. Never been a big fan of hydraulic brakes, I had a pair of Avid's back in the day. Took them off the bike sent them back, never touch Hydraulics again. They were such a pain in the ass. Setting them up was a two-person job.
After looking at your video. I was wondering if you were to turn the bracket around making the bracket a little lower on the right/rear side making the caliper sit just a little lower on the rotor. From the looks of your video, it looks like the right side is just a little wider/thicker than the left side. Please advise me of your thoughts. Thanks, Don
Good job 👍….I just got my new 2.0 XP and my both brakes rubbing the rotors. i did everything but no luck..i ride it like that but damn it makes noise..
Also mine were not centered from the factory. Loosen mounting bolts, squeeze handle and re tighten to center. If they still rub, need to back off the tension. Mine never rub.
It seems my front rotor is rubbing I did a re allignment and played with the silver bolt behind it but it still seems to rub I only did 25 miles on the bike some help would be great ?
I went to a bike shop to install hydraulic brakes they said they had plenty to choose from but didn’t have any for EBikes because they didn’t have the sensor to automatically shut off the motor. So did the ones you installed forfeit the safety on shutting off the motor automatically? I am a rookie and just trying to understand. Thanks
No because they weren’t full hydraulic brakes only hydraulic calipers that I put on. You can buy full hydraulic brakes for ebikes but they will cost more.
Hi Jeremiah, we received our XP a little over a month ago. Right from the start we had break squeak. Tinkered with it and limped along for a month. Finally took the bike to a local bike shop where they don’t service XP. Based on their assessment, they told us that we need to order new rotor and breaks. In your opinion, is this typical? We put 140 miles on the bike to date. Thank you for your videos! Looking forward to your feedback.
I would not think you need a rotor unless the pads were wore down to far enough that the metal from the pads are wearing into the rotors which I doubt with only 140 miles. Unless the rotor is badly bent? If it is slightly bent it can be straightened out. I’m no pro but that’s my opinion on it.
It appears the pads for the hydraulic have less surface area than the old pads. Am I correct? If that’s the case then that would contribute to less stopping Power on the hydraulic pads as well.
See more information or Purchase your Lectric Ebike or Trike here (This is an affiliate link and does help support this channel) lectricebikes.sjv.io/g1OLJB
Just got my XP today on the first test ride the folding/unfolding lock latch pops open when go over any little bump shutting off the bike...I emailed the company and have to wait & see how to remedy this issue
The new Lectric 2.0 has another cable to stop cruise control if breaks are pressed. How can hydraulic brakes like yours be adapted to this situation? Thanks
You’re only changing the calipers not the brake levers where the switches are however the hydraulic calipers may not work on the new 2.0 because the clearance is pretty tight.
Question- I purchased a 2nd lectric because I actually found one for sale in my area. It already has hydraulic brakes. I noticed yesterday the pad barely touched the front disk. Did you also put a different bracket on the front? I was thinking of going up to a 170 mm to solve but a different bracket would be a better option. My question is where did you get the bracket.
I have not yet replaced the caliper on the front because the original brake pads are still good on the front. I do plan on changing it in the future so can’t comment on this but I was thinking of possibly upgrading to bigger rotors to get the caliper more towards the outside of the rim which would leave more room between the caliper and the spokes.
Not as good as full hydraulics but definitely better than the brakes that were on it and no I have not had any issues with them leaking or having to bleed them. My experience with them has been great so far.
I worked for Control Data many years ago. They used pure alcohol, 196 proof ever-clear, to clean and remove oil or other contaminants from electronics boards and components. I refurbished damaged large industrial storage drives. Rubbing alcohol contains oil or glycerin that leaves a residue when the alcohol , which is generally 70%, evaporates. Ever-clear is more expensive but leaves behind zero residue.
My front stock Tektro mechanical caliper died after about 15 months and 1600 miles. I babied them, they had original pads with plenty of life, they had about the same amount of pad at 1600 miles as yours at 300, but the caliper failed. The install was a piece of cake. It almost took as long getting the bike on the stand as changing the caliper out. At first, the spokes rubbed on the caliper, but I just loosened the mounting allen bolts and pushed the caliper away from the spokes a hair and they don't rub anymore. I used the original mounting brackets. The install only took 6-7 minutes and it's the first time I've done a caliper change and I haven't even watched the video in about a year.
I am very impressed. These brakes stop the bike significantly faster than the Tektro's. Hopefully, they will last longer than the stock brakes and just as a note, my original pads didn't have the top not wear and the top of the pads don't extend above the rotor on the new Zoom install.
Hi, I got my XP 2.0 last Saturday. I put Zoom X Tech hydros on both ends. The 4 month wait was more than worth it. I have every mod you do. This bike is so sweet. I almost forgot to remove the washer when I changed the freewheel. This bike is worth twice what they are charging for it. I have 91 miles on it so far. I also followed the observation & knocked a 16th off the bracket. We have a machine shop.
I got myself a SAMEBIKE xwxl09 which looks almost the same as the lectric xp. The stock mech breaks wasn't good, so I had to get hydraulic breaks for it but realised that I needed to get the motor cut off switch to function which I had to order it separately. Then the hydraulic cables were too short, and had to get new cables setup with the bike tech to get a good fit. I had to install the engine cut-off etc works well and all, but was a hassle to install. If I only knew these existed I would have spent only less than half of what I did to upgrade the whole thing. I got them installed now on my wife's HIMO and works awesome! great vid!
If you look at the new brackets they are marked with the size you want to use the one marked F180 R160 for the rear wheel. It looks like you put the bracket for the front on the back. The other one is marked F160 R140. Check the markings on the bracket of the one you have not changed yet. Maybe yours were not marked but the set I got was.
My new ones were not marked but the old ones are and I tried them all and used the one that lined up the best. I’m pretty sure it’s the correct one because the other brackets were not even close.
I just installed mine today. They are far and away the best upgrade I have done to this bike. I have gotten used to hydraulic brakes on my other bikes and I thought these would be a minor upgrade at best. I was dead wrong, these are amazing. Thanks for video, keep them coming.
Thank you!
Did you encounter any fitting problems? And did you replaced the rotors to 180 ? Thanks
I have not done the front yet but no problems with the back and I used the original 160mm rotor.
you are going deep into the details with the HB-100, really helpful! I've been riding these brakes front and rear for half a year and I didn't even notice the small adjustment screw. Now they work great 😅
Jeremiah, you have a wonderful “presentation” ability for making videos. And, great subject matter too. You singlehandedly convinced me to purchase an XP. Keep up with the fine reporting. Also, keep that cute son riding in the background.
Thank you!
second that here, mine comes on Tuesday!
@@Veebat Your going to love it
I agree he is really amazing!
Thank you for helping me understand how to set my 'cruise control' in one of your videos. It was never clear enough before for me to get it. Maintain speed with hand throttle, then hold down the minus button for a count of two or three and you will see the PAS window change to 'Cruise.'
MY XPremium comes with hydraulics. Put the brakes you have on the rear of my inexpensive Vivi 500W folder with 2X20 tires, Rear brakes only cost me $16. Easy to install. I used bracket that came with brake. Fit perfect.
I, too, did the HB-100 upgrade on front and rear. Not wanting to experience the spoke interference that Sonny Whitehurst had when installing the front caliper, I upgraded my front rotor to 180mm to move the caliper further away from the spokes. Everything went together perfectly without any problems whatsoever. I love the easy installation of the new hydraulic calipers when compared to getting the mechanical calipers aligned to the rotor. Once and done with the hydraulics! Thank you Jeremiah for your inspiration.
You’re welcome. I thought of upgrading the front to 160mm also for that reason.
Jeremiah thank you for the video BUT, BED IN in your brake pads against your rotors gradually in order to transfer (inbed) your brake pad material onto the rotors. This will increase your breaking and stopping performance, provide consistent breaking all along the rotor while riding and protect your brake pads from over heating and glazing over. See videos about properly bedding in new brake pads.
I have ordered a set of these HB 100 brake calipers. My mechanical calipers I no longer trust and are too troublesome to adjust.
Thanks Jeremiah, I'm looking forward to you doing the fronts too. I would do them both at the same time, just for new and new! I like seeing your riding partner keeping pace with you. He doesn't let you get ahead and he knows the camera angles very well!
Great video very descriptive. I discovered just yesterday that my brake pads were sitting above the rotor by about a third resulting in a 33% loss of rear braking power. I have been contemplating upgrading to these exact calipers for better braking but now that I see this helped you marginally with the same issue I had, I am ordering these calipers tonight.
You make the BEST videos on the Lectric XP. I get so excited whenever you upload a new video. Thanks a million.
I agree ☝️
Thank you! I’ll have a new accessories video coming soon!
Try flipping your back bracket 180 degrees to lower the pads on the disc. I notice that it lowered mine that 1/8".
I tried that and when I did it wasn’t even close
Awww is that a lil baby ebike so cute to see u on dad mode and still working u should feature yo babies more it will make yo views go higher i promise u
As others have mentioned, you may have to file down your brackets to seat the pads correctly on the rotor. The rotor will get razor sharp and the pads will squeak like crazy if not seated correctly. Good video. Thanks.
Thanks I’m thinking of doing that!
Interesting video, the caliper design in novel in that the hydraulics is build in to the caliper itself. Saves the hassle of running hydraulic lines and bleeding the system.
Agreed. They may not be as good as full hydraulic systems but they do work well with no hassles like bleeding.
I ordered my hydrolytic brakes a while back just haven't installed them yet. I even received them before my bike.
Good Move.... did the same setup last month. I did had to burn mine in.... 3 or 4 Real Hard Stops.There is a different between the Mechanical vs Hydraulic Brakes stop power...
You can't change anything unless you move the bracket mounting hole. All interchange parts are based off of those two mounting holes and brackets are adjusted for different size rotors.
Adjust the cables at the wheel end, not the lever end, you can end up cutting the motor which will give you an on screen error message, Pull the cable tight from the brake end, tighten the cable with the caliper lever held slightly in, or use the adjusters at the brake end . Also, if your cable frays changing over you can feed a new one down the outer sleeve from the bar end without removing the whole thing. Best to cap the cables before adjusting or tightening to lessen the chances of cable fray though.
I'm a man of few words I really do enjoy your videos I've learned so much about the product getting ready to order one in the next couple weeks once again thank you very much J Ember
Thank you Jay I really appreciate that!
I love that there are people shooting in every video. America AF
By the time i get mine in 6 weeks I'll know all the tricks of the trade for it. Jeremiah thanks for sharing your passion.
Thank you and it’s my pleasure glad you’re enjoying them!
Can you use a larger brake rotor? Maybe it will sit better inside the pads.
Hey. On my Pedal-bike, my front brake will scream if I touch it lightly! Much better than a bell. People really move when they think that they are about to get hit. ☺
Lol😂
Everybody knows that sound and what it means, Get out of the way.LOL
Very informative! I really appreciate the quality of your videos. I would love to see a video of you twisting around to get a good shot of the brakes in action towards the end. 😂 Well done!
Thanks Rik! That shot was a little hard to get my GoPro was rubbing on the tire at first LOL
I added the rear brake and had to reverse the old mount to the back. (New brake, old bracket to bike) Then I added two washers in between the (bracket and the brake)to the bottom bolt which made the rotor sit perfect in the pads. Took about an hour to figure out the right set up for more meet of the pad on the rotor. Now it sits in there perfect
Awesome thanks for the info. Glad you got it lined up perfectly!
You might try purchasing or making a go-no go gauge for your manual brake calipers. For quick adjustment.
Jeremiah: Another excellent DIY video! I'm strongly considering the 'Lectric Xp E Bike ... and have really been enjoying your insight regarding "needed" upgrades to the bike itself! The upgrades make complete sense to me, and the DIY videos have been informative ... especially since I, too, am a "backyard" (actually, "basement") mechanic in my retired years! Thanks again for posting this video. I am looking forward to viewing more from you! Keep up the good work!
(p.s. Enjoying the special sound effects from the neighboring gun club! Reminds me of my own neighborhood here in Cincinnati, as there is an apparent feral coyote problem ... at least, in the minds of some of my neighbors (who are CCW licensees, as I am)!
Thank you! I really appreciate that!
go to the bike shop and get a longer cable housing , this will work better on future adjustment , their not that expensive
I believe that cable would’ve worked it’s definitely long enough it’s just the way it’s wrapped with all the other cables. I was not able to bring it in closer to the bike up front without unwrapping it.
Break adjustment should not be an issue from the bolt on the caliber that I show in my video which takes place of the other two bolts that are normally used for adjustment on the cable.
I did the same brake swap about a week ago. I'm pretty happy with mine but have a running battle keeping the front brake from developing a very loud squeak after a few miles. I've cleaned the rotors and tried realigning the calipers but it keeps coming back. I think the next step is to replace the pads with resin. I found some on Amazon with good reviews for less than $10 total for front & back, so I'll give that a shot. Also, the front brake seemed noticeably stronger than stock, the rear slightly less than stock. Weird, huh? Another great video, keep us posted on the display issue and when you switch out the front brake also.
I definitely will thanks. My new brakes came with resin pads and I can’t comment on the front because I haven’t changed it yet but the back no squeaks at all!
Did you have to change your caliper bracket also? Did yours sit all the way down onto the rotor or did they hang off just slightly like mine?
Breaks squeal cuz pads and rotors are smooth... rough em up a bit with emery cloth, see how that works!
Thanks for the tip Ed!
I changed one bracket and used the stock one on the other. Trouble is, now I can't remember which end got the new bracket. I may experiment with that today, maybe their labeling will help. New pads are en route from Amazon, arriving Monday. A big Part of my problems is the fact that I don't have a bike stand for working on the bike. I have the 11-28 Freewheel and the tool came yesterday from China for $2.@@JeremiahMcintosh
Nice! This what is the first time I used the bike stand and it definitely made it convenient for working on the back wheel especially if you have to do break adjustments or adjustment on the derailer .
Thanks for the great tutorial!! Looks like a no brainer. I see that you haven't got a solution for the speedo problem. What does XP say? Watching other bikes being reviewed there apparently a sensor that tells the controller how fast you are going, could that be out of adjustment/lost? In your earlier videos, you pointed out that the miles traveled were off. Mine was also off, but by changing the wheel size in program 06, it's pretty close to an app on the phone.
Jeremiah, Your cable housing became too short when, at 12:41, you decided to use the new bracket and reversed it to shift the caliper. It didn't seem to help you much and caused the cable housing adjustment issue. The frame mounting holes for the brake bracket are not placed precisely, and are causing your pad to rotor alignment problem. At this point, the best (only?) place to address this is by machining/grinding/sanding the mounting bracket to fit.
Thanks for investigation, explanation and inspiration. I have numerous non-electric bikes that could benefit from the upgrade as well.
Nice update. I'm gonna do that. I'm waiting for warmer weather and only have 1 mile on my bike. lol
I’ve been waiting for warmer weather as well it’s been to cold and there has been too much snow here to ride lately!😩
I'm from Michigan by the way.
I got my lectric ebike and the stock brakes are not that great. Your video is so detailed and helpful to any DIY. am changing the calipers soon. Thanks for this videos, they truly help
Your welcome and I’m glad you enjoy them.
My bike arrived on the 29, but the brakes are making a lot of noises.
Probably need to adjust the brake calipers and the brakes.
Nice video man very informative! When my brake pads are out I will do this upgrade!
Great video! Your front brakes should do about 70% of the work. A rear brake is only needed for trail braking in corners.
Another great video! I’m going for the hydraulic upgrade in the future when my pads wear down. 👍
Wow this guy breaks it down amazing. Very knowledgeable. Thanks bro kudos.
Thanks Brandon!
I think I accidentally broke my brake pads in pretty good I rode them for a couple hundred miles without adjusting the brakes and they almost wouldn't stop until I adjusted them but when I finally did squeak free and It'll throw you over the handlebars if you pull to hard as a guy that grew up with v brakes those tecktro on an XP are pretty damn good right out of the box.
Nice I might have to upgrade when the time comes.
Just the tips I was looking for. Thanks!
Hi Jeremiah, very informative video, one question my regular brakes are very squeaky, will the hydraulic conversion brakes to that too? I tried to clean them often, but they always squeak. Thanks
Jeremiah, Update ~ My HB-100 hydraulic brakes came in today (Wed.) and I installed them. As we discussed, I machined 1/16" off the rear brake mounting bracket contact surface so the brake pads would make complete contact with the brake disc. Now the top edge of the pads line up with the outer edge of the disc. Note in the attached pics, that this alignment problem was worse on the front brake. I machined 1/16" off its mounting bracket, the same as the rear.
I know at the time of your video you had not installed the front hydraulic brake. Have you installed it yet? If so did you run into the problems that I did? After installation, I kept getting a scraping sound when I rotated the front wheel. At first I thought it was the disc scraping the pads. After about a half hour of trying to adjust the pads and the disc appeared to be true, I realized that it had to be something else. It was ~ one of my spokes was slightly scraping the brake housing. Just one spoke, but the other outside laced spokes were mighty close to scraping. With the brake disc at its present location, there was just not enough clearance to adjust the brake caliper outward to clear the spoke. So, I had to remove the brake disc and place washers between the brake hub and the disc. Now there is enough clearance so the spoke no longer scrapes the brake housing.
Also, on the front brake, I had to put an extra washer on the bottom screw of the brake mounting bracket at the fork lug to give enough clearance between the threaded end of the screw and the brake disc.
Attached are a couple of pics. Pic of the brake pads at 1600 miles of wear. The front brake pads had about half as much wear as the rear. The other pic shows modification to correct the spoke scraping the brake housing.
s1135.photobucket.com/user/ECCCVettes/media/Brake%20Pad%20Wear_zpsclv3xuar.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1 s1135.photobucket.com/user/ECCCVettes/media/Brake%20Spoke%20Clearance_zpsyo7qbgvb.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
Sonny thank you for the excellent details!
I have not replaced the front calipers yet so I cannot compare. Seems like a lot of hassle but I’m glad you got them working.
We’re you able to use the original mounting bracket or the new one? Also did you have a problem with the brake cable like I did?
@@JeremiahMcintosh Yes and no ~ I used the original mounting bracket on the rear (I machined/ground down the brake mounting surface down 1/16") and I used the new mounting bracket on the front and ground it down the same as the rear bracket. I used the original bracket on the rear because it positioned the brake housing closer to the brake cable. I did not have any problem with the brake cable.
I'm NOT going to do a video on the brake installation since you have already made one. Are you planning to make a Part 2 on the installation of the front brake? If so you might want to mention the problems that I had. The problem with the spoke scraping the brake housing may have been a fluke since only one spoke was scraping. Any way, the spokes are mighty close to the brake housing. The reason that the bottom mounting screw hit the brake disc was a result of the washers that I had placed between the brake disc hub and the disc. The washers shifted the disc about 1/32" outward placing it closer to the brake assembly. Things are mighty tight around that area. One little change may effect something else. If you want to use the pics I posted in my comments above, feel free to do so.
I haven't had a chance to test ride yet, but will test the new brakes by the end of the day. I'll let you know the results.
Awesome! Definitely do update us on your opinion of them after you have ridden a few miles.
The one thing I noticed about the resin pads is that there is no squeal at all but if you’re going down a long decline after the brakes heat up there is slightly less stopping power. I like that I kept the ceramics upfront to give me that extra stopping power if needed.
If I install though hydraulics upfront I may buy a set of semi metallic pads for just the front and keep the resin pads on the back.
Well, I rode about 5 miles this afternoon to check out the new brakes. First thing I notice was how quiet they are. I hear nothing when applying the rear brake and very little noise when apply the front brake. These brakes rate at a solid 5 stars out of 5 stars on the noise scale, where the stock brakes scored 2 to 3 stars. From what I can tell so far, I have more stopping power. This could be because of the additional surface area of the pads to the disc due to the machining of the brake mounting bracket. I don't have any hills around my neighborhood, so I could not test the brakes for heating effect going down hill. These brakes are sooo much easier to adjust than the stock brakes and the brake lever arm travel is much less than the stock which makes the handlebar hand brake lever travel range much less too. This is a good up grade. I'm glad I made the change.👍 🚴♂️
Awesome glad you liked it. I may end up taking my back bracket off and sanding it down to make them fit a little better as you did. Thank you for your update and opinion you always describe things really well!👍
Brake pad part number is VX824 from Clarks or Shimano.
Hi Jeremiah, Great video! One question. I would like to upgrade to the Hydraulic brake system because mine squeal like crazy and after watching your video, I think they might be a nice upgrade. I have a Lectric 2.0 the easy step in one, do these fit that? Thanks! Keep up the great work!
Hey bro good video I've got a question for you my bike was squeaking I have a ebkarocy ebike and the front wheel was squeaking and I believe I adjust the spokes too tight because now there's a wobble in it how do you true the wheel back to its normal State the easiest way
I love squeaky brake pads. They work much better than a bell. Gets attention every time.
😂
Hi, been watching most of your videos on this XP reviews, and maintenance tips because I have an ebike with similar looks and features... About the brake system you installed, maybe the mounting was designed to accommodate for a 180mm diameter of disc rotors, if your XP currently has 160mm disc. If you plan to replace them with the 180mm disc, it should go all the way inside the brake caliper. Ride safe and enjoy👍🚴😊🇵🇭
I'm installing mine on the mars HeyBike this Saturday! When will you show the fronts? I suppose they are about the same process. Thanks for the insperaration. The new freewheel is working just great too.
Jeremiah, I ordered a set of semi metallic pads on Amazon when I ordered the same caliper set you have. I have the pads, but the calipers are months out, according to Amazon. I'm willing to compare dimensions of the pads I have, to the pads that came with your calipers. Assuming you still have not installed the front. Let me know.
The pads I have are made by Dymoece, SCP-LX-Semi, SKU X0011V89RKP. Like I said, not sure they are the correct ones.
After adjusting the 2mm screw on the rear brake I was expecting you to spin the wheel to confirm there is no brake pad scraping.
Wonder if the 1/8 inch is for 203mm disc? Enjoy watching your videos. I could be out in left field. Glad you are able to get the exercise.
My speedometer
quite working also. I found a pulled wire at the controller but it didn’t repair the problem. Still don’t know.
No need to pull the brake lever on the bars to align the caliper, which is awkward, just use the lever on the caliper to close the pads.
Ordered me a pair of the HB-100 today. My XP has over 1400 miles on it. May be time for a pad replacement. I hate adjusting the stock calipers because of the single sided piston which make alignment a hassle. Maybe the hydraulic calipers with a piston on each side will be easier to adjust. A little extra money may be well worth it in the long run. Good Video!
Thanks Sonny. 😯Dang you’ve been putting some miles on!
The easier adjustment is definitely going to be nice and so far I am very happy with the upgrade! Does your rear brake pads sit up slightly higher on the rotor like mine?
@@JeremiahMcintosh I'm not sure. I did take them out about 500 miles back and did not see any uneven wear. I'll check tomorrow and see if I can tell.
I did look but without taking the pad out of calipers it is hard to tell, however it did appear that the pad may be slightly above the disc. Once I get the new calipers and remove the stock calipers, I'll let you know if the pads are not completely covering the disc. If they aren't, I will be grinding the mounting bracket enough to get the pads aligned for complete contact with the disc.
Thanks For checking Sonny. I’ve been thinking of doing the same with mine. My old ones were wore down to where the tops of both pads were touching when you squeeze them.
Great video, very informative. I was wondering if you ever thought of testing different tires for the Lectric XP. I personally would like to know how it affects performance.
Awesome video. Appreciate the info. This is the only bike with disc brakes we own
Thank you! I appreciate that!
Great video ! So what's wrong with your speedometer ? Thanks , Judd .
Be careful going down a hill at 30 MPH. I just wrecked my lectric going about 27 Mph down a sidewalk when my bike slid. The thing about e bikes is they can easily become unstable and you may slide by the slightest disruption. Mind you I didn't hit anything I think their was a slight bump on the sidewalk but that was it. Luckily I am fine and only suffer minor road rash but the average person would have likely taken a much bigger beating. I think my Judo for that literally.
Oh wow. Glad you are ok!
@@JeremiahMcintosh Thanks, I scuffed my handle bars up a bit and my gear switch is broken but other than that for the most part the bike Is fine. I actually think at times it better to ride in the road with how fast these bikes can go. Currently my bike is in a shop because the chain was derailed and is stuck in the gear shaft. My leg is scrapped up a bit and so is my arm but it's nothing really serious and as contrary as it may seem when you know you are falling the best thing to do is not to try to stop the fall but to relax your body.
I'm going to swap to road tires in the spring. Knobbies on the road don't work as well and no one is taking a Lectric on a mountain trail.
So, I have a coswheel t20. Is the size of the caliper universal? I currently have shimano disc brakes and really want to upgrade. Also, I have heard about abs brakes for bikes, any thoughts? Thanks for a great video! Subscribed!
Why do you not test ariies Kempler the best bike available for the price . Please
You will stop faster if you control the brakes and don'y lock them up, if you are skidding you are not stopping efficiently
After changing the brake calipers, did you have any excess inner cable length?
Hi Jeremiah like your presentation very much and one question about hydolic brake that does it make your lever nice and easy squeezing the lever than the manual brake thanks
Thank You. It is slightly better but no where near as easy as full hydraulic brakes.
@@JeremiahMcintosh
Thanks I have triggered finger on my right hand so I’m not sure I should go full hydrolic?but like the easy solution you are using?
I got my new pads today and I have a metal piece that came with the calipers and I didn’t know what it is for
Hey Jeremiah,
Thank you for making these videos, it has been helpful for me to find which E-bike I want and how to upgrade it. Can you make a video on how you clean and maintain your E-bike. Also, I would like to know if I can change the wheel to a bigger size. Looking forward to your response.
Thanks Edwin! I doubt you can change the wheel to a bigger size and that’s a good idea for a video. Thanks
Great video, I just ordered the calipers and the repair stand.
👍 Nice! You could see in my video I used the factory seat and seat post for something LOL
nice of you to epxlain how to adjust the mechanical rotor, I might pick up one of these bikes, if you had to pedal one without a motor geometry wise, im wondering what would have the edge, the step through model or the original, the pedals are set back in location a bit on one of the two
Hmmm 🤔 They both seem about the same to me.
@@JeremiahMcintosh I think its only like an inch or two difference, which one do you prefer?
Honestly I like them both about the same it would be a really tough decision to decide which one. I like the way my black bike looks But I really like the step through also. Honestly that’s a tough question LOL.
Interesting I never seen hydraulic brakes like that you'll have to let us know how they work out, very curious. Never been a big fan of hydraulic brakes, I had a pair of Avid's back in the day. Took them off the bike sent them back, never touch Hydraulics again. They were such a pain in the ass. Setting them up was a two-person job.
These were super easy to set up and so far I love them!
Hi Jeremiah! My lectric xp bikes brake it’s making a lot noise from the crank area, is yours have the same problem?
After looking at your video. I was wondering if you were to turn the bracket around making the bracket a little lower on the right/rear side making the caliper sit just a little lower on the rotor. From the looks of your video, it looks like the right side is just a little wider/thicker than the left side. Please advise me of your thoughts. Thanks, Don
When I did this installation I tried it both ways and when I reverse the bracket it was way off.
Very well done Jeremiah. We are going to share your video on our E-Bike Weekly Magazine website. Hopefully you are okay with that.
Sure. If you like post the link to my playlist on the xp.
@@JeremiahMcintosh I will keep watching .. yes I will add your link and ask my viewers to click subscribe and like on your video.
Good job 👍….I just got my new 2.0 XP and my both brakes rubbing the rotors. i did everything but no luck..i ride it like that but damn it makes noise..
Make sure your rotors are not bent at all and are perfectly straight that could be the problem why you can’t adjust them correctly.
Also mine were not centered from the factory. Loosen mounting bolts, squeeze handle and re tighten to center. If they still rub, need to back off the tension. Mine never rub.
I read on reddit that zoom brakes are trash, how are yours holding up?
Can you please tell me if the brakes are the same with the 1.0 and the new 2.0 electric xp ???
Hey I just wanted to say thanks for recommendation for the cloud 9 seat and zoom post!
No problem glad you liked it.
It seems my front rotor is rubbing I did a re allignment and played with the silver bolt behind it but it still seems to rub I only did 25 miles on the bike some help would be great ?
You give such detailed videos. Terrific.
Thank You Paul!
I went to a bike shop to install hydraulic brakes they said they had plenty to choose from but didn’t have any for EBikes because they didn’t have the sensor to automatically shut off the motor. So did the ones you installed forfeit the safety on shutting off the motor automatically? I am a rookie and just trying to understand. Thanks
No because they weren’t full hydraulic brakes only hydraulic calipers that I put on. You can buy full hydraulic brakes for ebikes but they will cost more.
Hi Jeremiah, we received our XP a little over a month ago. Right from the start we had break squeak. Tinkered with it and limped along for a month. Finally took the bike to a local bike shop where they don’t service XP. Based on their assessment, they told us that we need to order new rotor and breaks. In your opinion, is this typical? We put 140 miles on the bike to date. Thank you for your videos! Looking forward to your feedback.
I would not think you need a rotor unless the pads were wore down to far enough that the metal from the pads are wearing into the rotors which I doubt with only 140 miles. Unless the rotor is badly bent? If it is slightly bent it can be straightened out. I’m no pro but that’s my opinion on it.
Jeremiah Mcintosh Thank you for the information. I thought it was odd that the bike shop would suggest that I get new rotors so early on.
i just got lectric xp im doing the upgrades you are thanks for the great info kimmy t rving
Awesome! You’re going to love it!
Great advice!
How are the hyudralic upgrades holding up?
Will this work the same on the Mars HeyBike?????
It appears the pads for the hydraulic have less surface area than the old pads. Am I correct? If that’s the case then that would contribute to less stopping Power on the hydraulic pads as well.
Surface area on the hydraulic pads look about the same or a little more than the mechanical pads.
Glad to hear that. Make me feel more ready to make the switch. Thanks Jeremiah!
Read The comments from Sonny Whitehurst he had a problem installing his front ones but was able to get it to work but he’s glad he did the upgrade.
Chris Crossed mentioned on one of his video that these brakes are too large to fit on the XP 2.0. Have you seen another model which would work?
Personally no I have not. I haven’t tried to upgrade my 2.0 yet.
See more information or Purchase your Lectric Ebike or Trike here (This is an affiliate link and does help support this channel) lectricebikes.sjv.io/g1OLJB
Just got my XP today on the first test ride the folding/unfolding lock latch pops open when go over any little bump shutting off the bike...I emailed the company and have to wait & see how to remedy this issue
The latch may need adjusted and make sure it is locking! Sounds very unsafe!
Up Date: The Company emailed back with a video on how to make adjustments and correct this issue and all’s well 🙂
@@stevenjeffries9027 I would like to see that video. Can you send a link?
freewill1114 on UA-cam search bar type in...How to adjust the XP frame latch/lectric service center
The new Lectric 2.0 has another cable to stop cruise control if breaks are pressed. How can hydraulic brakes like yours be adapted to this situation? Thanks
You’re only changing the calipers not the brake levers where the switches are however the hydraulic calipers may not work on the new 2.0 because the clearance is pretty tight.
i wonder if these sit better on the xp 3.0
Question- I purchased a 2nd lectric because I actually found one for sale in my area. It already has hydraulic brakes. I noticed yesterday the pad barely touched the front disk. Did you also put a different bracket on the front? I was thinking of going up to a 170 mm to solve but a different bracket would be a better option. My question is where did you get the bracket.
I have not yet replaced the caliper on the front because the original brake pads are still good on the front. I do plan on changing it in the future so can’t comment on this but I was thinking of possibly upgrading to bigger rotors to get the caliper more towards the outside of the rim which would leave more room between the caliper and the spokes.
@@JeremiahMcintosh I will let you know if a 170 was the right size. Wish/hope a 180 will fit simply because they are easier to find
Do u know where to get a back brake cable online that fits the bike?
So it's been a year.. how are the line pull hydraulic brakes holding up? Do they leak? Do you need to change or bleed the fluid?
Not as good as full hydraulics but definitely better than the brakes that were on it and no I have not had any issues with them leaking or having to bleed them. My experience with them has been great so far.
How are they holding up 2 years later?