It's 4:24am here in the states. I just got woke up by this video upload notification. Have to watch it and then go back to bed. Some things just can't wait till morning. LOL
We've all had cars we wished we still had (FC Holden , HQ Kingswood , 63 Chev , CM Regal) but this is the reason I kept my XF which I parked up in 2007 , its patiently waiting for this type of treatment as a sleeper even though it'll still be a few years to happen . Loving the build and very informative , subscribed and thank you for the videos , cheers 🍻
I had an XF wagon. It was a beaut country car with God knows how many klicks on it. Apart from the head gasket and radiator it went really well for a very long time.
That black on the engine for real sets it off way better than I expected most other people don't bother with painting em that should change now luving the constant engineering approval is best talk about stuff no dodgy stuff lol
Can't wait to see you guys in the usa for the cleetus and cars... you guys are awesome keep up the content, love seeing the build. Play some music while you fast forward through the parts in the video...
Whilst the theme of this build is about swapping an old ford motor for a much better option the takeaway is, people who undertake car modifications should where practical maintain OEM specifications. By doing that it will save heartache latter on when the police look for potential defects. Any person that is considering doing mods need to watch these build series’s whilst it may not be car specific most things can be relatable and be incorporated in any make of vehicle... What is good about the vids is, not only what to do is explained but also why to do it..
Great series guys, you should get in touch with Cleetus's mate Adam LZ as he had a bad engine fire in his late model GT350 Mustang and he is thinking of doing an engine swap, all the comments on his video suggest a Turbo Barra, you might be able to help with mounts, engine etc.
I've got the same master cyl in my falcon, I bought it from you guys a while back. If the clevis' become a production part, would you sell them separately? I'd much prefer it over what I have in there now.
Geez with a Turbo Barra pushing that XF along at a rapid rate of knots I hope you guys have something like a rack and pinion conversion for the steering cos my old XF had a ton of play in the steering box. I sometimes wish I still had it now you guys are bringing all the bolt on kit stuff out for the XF but I reckon I'd run out of cash pretty quick. Are you going to tell us what all this shiny new stuff is going to cost the average punter if they want to copy all the same stuff onto their XF? P.S. I reckon the brake master cylinder kit costs more than the rest of the car...
I have the same master cylinder - bought from these guys- in my XB coupe, I use it without a booster and drive on the street a lot. It's a firm pedal but works fine. In cars with aggressive engines there isn't usually much vacuum when you'd need it for braking. Ive also done drag challenge a few times, which this car is being built for, and again no issues (low 8sec full weight falcon)
Pedal feel is better without the booster, and if you get the math right on the bore and stroke, it's not heavy. Like the guy replied below, you can't guarantee you're going to have enough vacuum especially when you're using far too much cam like everyone does on the street. On a race car, you can feel the front brakes way better which means you can threshold brake easier. Modern cars with too much boost rely on ABS saving the driver, with practice and good feel, you can brake later and deeper with a manual set up.
@@madbikeboysins Thanks, I have an 1972 Japanese car which has disk brakes but no booster and you do need a lot of pressure to stop. (at least compared to my modern daily driver) I'm contemplating upgrading from solid disks to a larger vented disk but always worried about pedal effort. A booster addition would not be easy in the car.
@@glennp9904 1972, is it a Z? For most cars, you can work out what the brakes are (size of piston, swept area of the the rotor, drums or discs on the rear) and brake specialists can help specify the correct master cylinder size, and whether residual values are needed. So, for a 1967 Mustang, running Dynalites, and a non-assisted master, a 7/8ths is approprate, and the pedal effort is about 20% more than the over assisted stock brakes, but gives the correct lever, the correct feel, and is perfectly safe. Companies like Castlemaine and in NZ, there are a few specialists who can do the math. If you're feeling like you need both feet to push the brake to stop, it's too much and you need to rethink the master bore and stroke. I've had chicks drive the 67 set up in heels who didn't realise there was no booster - but thought they had to push a little harder because it was an old car. Also, for the Mopar stuff we build, we've found that there are companies who have complete kits that are already well engineered. The phone support matters, as does the trust that what you ordered will be complete with no missing parts - (Wilwood have good product but bad service and there is often hardware or small parts missing, some of the smaller companies have good products and fantastic service, and always all the parts that they said would be there for example).
E series boosters are a 2 bolt onto firewall not a 3 bolt like xd e f g. I'd say it would work with the right adaptor plate depending there is enough room between strut tower
@@CastlemaineRodShop1976 Fair enough. What's a T350/400 conversion cost, approximately? BTW, loving your UA-cam channel and your work. Top quality indeed!
What's wrong mate ratchets give you muscle fatigue? You'll be right. I reckon it's a good thing more than anything else. Too many people are impact happy, can't feel resistance buggering threads, rounding heads etc. At the very least it's laziness, especially on m6 x 20mm bolts for eg way to common. Not every DIY person owns or needs an impact btw. At best it's a complete non issue, did the thought genuinely cross your mind, and you had to say something? Or just trolling
It's 4:24am here in the states. I just got woke up by this video upload notification. Have to watch it and then go back to bed. Some things just can't wait till morning. LOL
Joe Oliver Good morning mate! Hope you like it!
@@CastlemaineRodShop1976
Great video!!
Great videos and very informative. Have purchased the wilwoods and front end of you guys ready to fit up in my XB Coupe. Can’t wait
Love this series and the detailed explanations!
We've all had cars we wished we still had (FC Holden , HQ Kingswood , 63 Chev , CM Regal) but this is the reason I kept my XF which I parked up in 2007 , its patiently waiting for this type of treatment as a sleeper even though it'll still be a few years to happen . Loving the build and very informative , subscribed and thank you for the videos , cheers 🍻
Awesome work i am proud that you are manufacturing in Australia ps it would be cool to see this at Summernats........
I had an XF wagon. It was a beaut country car with God knows how many klicks on it. Apart from the head gasket and radiator it went really well for a very long time.
That black on the engine for real sets it off way better than I expected most other people don't bother with painting em that should change now luving the constant engineering approval is best talk about stuff no dodgy stuff lol
So happy I stumbled upon this series, you really explain it Well
Can't wait to see you guys in the usa for the cleetus and cars... you guys are awesome keep up the content, love seeing the build. Play some music while you fast forward through the parts in the video...
Whilst the theme of this build is about swapping an old ford motor for a much better option the takeaway is, people who undertake car modifications should where practical maintain OEM specifications. By doing that it will save heartache latter on when the police look for potential defects.
Any person that is considering doing mods need to watch these build series’s whilst it may not be car specific most things can be relatable and be incorporated in any make of vehicle...
What is good about the vids is, not only what to do is explained but also why to do it..
great video for the novice car builder, just like lego, thanks guys
glad you went with the snow flack wheels
Great series guys, you should get in touch with Cleetus's mate Adam LZ as he had a bad engine fire in his late model GT350 Mustang and he is thinking of doing an engine swap, all the comments on his video suggest a Turbo Barra, you might be able to help with mounts, engine etc.
This is fucking awesome guys, I need an XF.
Great work legends!
This is going to be a ripper!
Needed that master cylinder setup a month ago. Just put a new factory style one on mine as I couldn't find any upgrades
Great work guys love the way you’s explain everything keep the content coming
Nice job lads 👌
Good video Rod Shop boys 👍🏻
What does the master cylinder feel like? It would be a good option for my car but I don't want to have to press as hard as I can to slow down.
I've got the same master cyl in my falcon, I bought it from you guys a while back. If the clevis' become a production part, would you sell them separately? I'd much prefer it over what I have in there now.
when will this master cylinder set up be available to buy? I need this haha!
do you guys sell the booster-less kit on the website ? can't find it anywhere
Really really want a set of engine mounts for my xm sedan, have a ba turbo ready. Waitin on you guys to make a set for a level install.
shane yeh I know but they’re nearly twice as dear, but I’m also ready to put the engine in very soon. Sooooo might have to go the other way. 🤷🏼♂️
What is the part number for that turbo manifold.
Barra, keeps the big V8s honest
How much would this type of build cost?
Killer channel.
Geez with a Turbo Barra pushing that XF along at a rapid rate of knots I hope you guys have something like a rack and pinion conversion for the steering cos my old XF had a ton of play in the steering box.
I sometimes wish I still had it now you guys are bringing all the bolt on kit stuff out for the XF but I reckon I'd run out of cash pretty quick. Are you going to tell us what all this shiny new stuff is going to cost the average punter if they want to copy all the same stuff onto their XF?
P.S. I reckon the brake master cylinder kit costs more than the rest of the car...
@shane That's good then mate. That should save them steering all over the place to go in a straight line.
Why is the booster removed?
Is it a street car.
I have the same master cylinder - bought from these guys- in my XB coupe, I use it without a booster and drive on the street a lot. It's a firm pedal but works fine. In cars with aggressive engines there isn't usually much vacuum when you'd need it for braking.
Ive also done drag challenge a few times, which this car is being built for, and again no issues (low 8sec full weight falcon)
@@Philthybuilds Thanks for the reply. A friend used an Alternator off a diesel engined SUV, it has a vacuum pump on the back of it.
Pedal feel is better without the booster, and if you get the math right on the bore and stroke, it's not heavy. Like the guy replied below, you can't guarantee you're going to have enough vacuum especially when you're using far too much cam like everyone does on the street. On a race car, you can feel the front brakes way better which means you can threshold brake easier. Modern cars with too much boost rely on ABS saving the driver, with practice and good feel, you can brake later and deeper with a manual set up.
@@madbikeboysins Thanks, I have an 1972 Japanese car which has disk brakes but no booster and you do need a lot of pressure to stop. (at least compared to my modern daily driver) I'm contemplating upgrading from solid disks to a larger vented disk but always worried about pedal effort. A booster addition would not be easy in the car.
@@glennp9904 1972, is it a Z? For most cars, you can work out what the brakes are (size of piston, swept area of the the rotor, drums or discs on the rear) and brake specialists can help specify the correct master cylinder size, and whether residual values are needed. So, for a 1967 Mustang, running Dynalites, and a non-assisted master, a 7/8ths is approprate, and the pedal effort is about 20% more than the over assisted stock brakes, but gives the correct lever, the correct feel, and is perfectly safe. Companies like Castlemaine and in NZ, there are a few specialists who can do the math. If you're feeling like you need both feet to push the brake to stop, it's too much and you need to rethink the master bore and stroke. I've had chicks drive the 67 set up in heels who didn't realise there was no booster - but thought they had to push a little harder because it was an old car.
Also, for the Mopar stuff we build, we've found that there are companies who have complete kits that are already well engineered. The phone support matters, as does the trust that what you ordered will be complete with no missing parts - (Wilwood have good product but bad service and there is often hardware or small parts missing, some of the smaller companies have good products and fantastic service, and always all the parts that they said would be there for example).
You need to make this kit for Gemini’s
Curious with that master will it work with the e series models or not
Not sure yet mate, but we will look in to this later on.
E series boosters are a 2 bolt onto firewall not a 3 bolt like xd e f g. I'd say it would work with the right adaptor plate depending there is enough room between strut tower
Shouldn't the master cylinder pushrod me moved up for manual brakes? Pedal effort will be higher in the lower spot.
I reckon a blown coyote swap for Nathan's XM for next project car guys!
I can just handle the power of the Windsor as it is mate, lol
@@CastlemaineRodShop1976 well you might need a XM/P Coupe to play with cuz!
Why go for a beater T350 or T400 when you can get a ZF to handle up to 1000rwhp?
Romulus we didn’t have a ZF.
@@CastlemaineRodShop1976 Fair enough. What's a T350/400 conversion cost, approximately? BTW, loving your UA-cam channel and your work. Top quality indeed!
Go the aussies
Can we get hold of this complete process on a USB or DVD?
Watching that guy using a ratchet made me tired,where’s ya impact gun mate?
What's wrong mate ratchets give you muscle fatigue? You'll be right.
I reckon it's a good thing more than anything else. Too many people are impact happy, can't feel resistance buggering threads, rounding heads etc. At the very least it's laziness, especially on m6 x 20mm bolts for eg way to common. Not every DIY person owns or needs an impact btw.
At best it's a complete non issue, did the thought genuinely cross your mind, and you had to say something? Or just trolling
Dulux Rebuild HaHa