Fix A Lawn Tractor That Floods - Briggs & Stratton Carburetor Repair Video
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Fix A Lawn Tractor That Floods - Briggs & Stratton Carburetor Repair Video
Does your lawn tractor flood itself excessively? Watch this video for the repair solution.
Buy needle valve part #231855s
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Buy seat part #690577
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Watch how to replace this carburetor from your lawn tractor;
• DIY - Carburetor Repla...
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Easy to follow and thorough step by step tutorials do it yourself (DIY) to help you with your broken lawn and garden equipment including snowblowers.
I do my best to teach you how to easily diagnose problems the fastest, quickest and most efficient way with real repairs beyond just replacing a spark plug. These tips are for both the homeowner and shop owner.
Whether it be a handheld, two stroke, two cycle engine like a chainsaw, weed eater, weed wacker, string trimmer, grass trimmer, line trimmer, hedge trimmer, strimmer, brush cutter, leaf blower, or four stroke, four cycle units like a lawnmower, wood splitter, lawn tractor, snowblower, pressure washer, generator or a ride on mower that needs parts installed or replaced, I’m your go-to guy.
My favorite brands of spark plugs are NGK and Champion and are the ones I recommend.
I’ve been a small engine mechanic for many decades and also run my own repair shop so my videos are loaded with tips and tricks that I have learned and want to share with you. You will also find many tool and product reviews from top brands on my channel as well.
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You do have all the good stuff, and the best part is you're not afraid to share it! :>)
I never thought you could replace that cool thanks for the video
I wouldn't have had a clue how to do this before watching this video. After watching this, I could do this myself. The clever tricks of grinding down the 1/2" wrench , and the socket , are tricks of the trade that you have learned and are sharing. The quality of your videos and your teaching skills are excellent. Thank you Sir!
+arciefan you're welcome, make sure you are subscribed
Clean video, something very rare in this community, good job!
Excellent, as always. Thank you for making the effort to share your knowledge.
+MIKE O'BRIEN you're welcome
@@donyboy73 can you use pressure gauge to test to check the seat you just installed
I like those wood slats you use in the vise, and the socket. I change them in much the same way Dony. Thanks for taking the time to show us yer knowledge!
+Dave Horst have a good weekend
I couldn't find anywhere that showed how to take the seat out. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! You save me from going crazy....LOL
At the back of the carb between motor and carb there is a track effect. The gas is leaking from there when I put it back together? Is that because the needle and seat isn’t working ?
Well done thanks for shearing this process.
Happy Canada Day
What a brilliant idea for removing the Seat .👍
used a bolt extractor to remove the seat on mine. worked good. hadnt thought of threading it though, and using a "bolt & socket" puller
I never trust them carburettors I always turn the in line fuel tap off when the engines not running, If they don't have a tap I install one.
Excellent video. One thing you might talk about in the next seat removal video is the depth at which the seat is installed affects the float level. I'm sure you've covered it in other videos.
I measured mine today and it was .045 inch from the edge of the seat to the body of the carburetor.
Thanks once again Dony. Your videos are very helpful to me. Have a Great weekend.
Great video Don! Have a good weekend.
+cubbeezx thanks, you too
Very smart thanks for sharing!!!!
When replacing anti-backfire solenoids on these carburetors, I occasionally have problems with leaking through the connection where the solenoid screws in. You did not mention using a washer with that connection. Do you use a washer, and if so, do you use a fiber washer or a metal washer? Also, a 1/2” open end tappet wrench can often fit in the space available, if you don’t want to grind down one of your other 1/2” wrenches. Thanks for another great video.
Nice vid. Thank you!
i hate those antifire solenoids, ive snipped every one off, if you purchase a briggs float bowl kit, it comes with a bowl gasket, new bowl and antifire bypass bolt. i use fuel shut off valves on all my stuff, all i do is shut it and let my tractor idle till float bowl is empty. thanks for the tip on needle valve replacement.
Thanks great video , a big help for me.
Great video.....,I never nu you could change that out,, Thanks Don M
I will never have to do this type of work, but I just enjoy watching all your videos because they are so well made.
Never say Never. You may end up fixing someones mower for a few bucks.
@@LiezerZero yes that is exactly how i a 14 year old became a riding mower or a small engine fanatic
Thanks Dony
always showing the best techniques to make the job easier.
great job, cant wait for more videos on snowblowers and lawnmowers and string trimmers
again thanks for all your great advice.
keep them coming.
awesome, thanks
nice to know thanks for making the vid .
What would you do if the inside of the carbarator where the needle and seat is,, is plastic with a rubber O ring with the rubber running all around and through under the plastic on the aluminum and the cap is aluminum as well
Thanks Donyboy. I prefer your second method of extraction, because it utilizes all of the threads at the beginning, when the force would need to be the highest (probably doesn't matter for this job). I would look hard for a piece of tubing before I would go to the trouble of grinding down a socket. :=) Do you have any suggestions on how to grind it?
how could i get to the governor spring and gear,i'm loosing a bit of oil at the elbow where the
governor lever goes into engine compartment and lawnmower honda gcv 160 (2008)
is running at a higher rpm (at least it seems to me)I,suspect that the gear or spring is
broken.Thank you guys for your great contribution to this channel
Warning: There is a danger in the B&S V-Twin fueling systems. Gas
tank above the carburetor, leaky shut off and float valve, probably from
rubber 1/4" hoses under mowing conditions trash in fuel won't let fuel
be shut off. In two-three days over a gallon of gas run thru intake
valves & rings into crankcase. Cranked hard due to hydraulic lock,
explosion can result. Beware, I add a fuel cutoff valve to fuel line and
shut it off every time I use my mower. I have also added a fuel filter
below the fuel pump with new line to carburetor, to catch trash. After
this experience, no more chances with Intek twin.
thanks dony for those advises . I have ecxacly the same carburator on my tractor but it does the oposit of fluding thereS not enough gas going down the cup . It start well but after a few secounds it begins to run eraticly . Have to pull the choke on and then stops. the cylinder compresion is at 110, cleaned the carb.and everything. What would be the problem do you think Thanks
Great video I used a 1/4" x 28 tap and 1/4"x28 bolt to remove seat donyboy73 keep them coming
On my B&S 25hp intek the factory put 1 of the main jets in needle seat jamming the float i dont know how it ran at all just dumbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
I saw this video while trying to repair a 5-4993 Walbro. The last thing I wanted to do is to replace the seat...… but it was still failing after doing all the other tasks. I had to replace the seat...…. Your idea of tapping the insert is BRILLIANT. I am in the UK and I threaded it with metric tap. It worked PERFECTLY. I didn't grind a socket, I simply used a length of steel tube. Surprisingly, the OUTSIDE of the seat had corroded (electrolytically?) and was allowing fuel to bypass the needle valve and seat. Another surprise! I assume that water had entered the carb and been allowed to stand.
Anyway, thanks again...… that saved me a HUGE amount of shouting as swearing!
Hey man! I just want to thank you do being so helpful. In my 8 years of working on these engines, I am now almost 15. I started when my uncle gave me a Briggs & Stratton 5hp Fun Power on a go kart from. Great engine, didn't want to mess it up, so I learned the majority of my knowledge on a little 3hp updraft carb engine. I loved that little engine, and I cranked it over, took it apart, put it back together, everything. I would take rides with my dad on the gokart now and then. I started driving about age 7 and a half. Great times. My dad taught me various things with that little 3 horse, like pulling the valves in and out, lapping, working on the carb, and other things. once I was experienced, I took down the engine to prepare myself for what I should expect in an engine. I noted all of the parts and figured it out. I sadly had to trash it because we were moving into a smaller home. I was able to keep some engines, thankfully. That was an older 4.0 Quantum and a 3.5. I have now a 5hp Fun Power, a '70 2.5hp Golden Boy engine on an edger, a restored '60s 2hp, a restored '54 Briggs Model 5S, a '94 horizontal 3.5hp, a '00 5hp lawn mower engine that I'm rebuilding, and a few others, including 2 cycles. Thank you for your help. You have been a source for about 80% of my knowledge on these engines, no joke. I can not thank you enough. By the way, on a small 3.5hp horizontal shaft with a pulsa jet carb, how would I pop out the welch plug on the front of the carb. Thank you Don
+Mitchell Richardson you're welcome Mitchell, I rarely replace those welsh plugs but usually I carefully drill a small hole then use a pick to pry out
thank you very much for going to the trouble to post this excellent video. this has sorted my issue with a flooding Murray.local repair shop just wanted to put a new carb into it. its an old mower and i didn't want to spend a small fortune fixing it.
I have a John deere Lt133.
Replaced fuel hose and grommet from tank to fuel pump as it was deteriorated.
Cleaned gas tank and replaced carb with new one from amazon along with filter and fuel hose.
The new carb flooded right away.
Took bowl off, cleaned jet and it then ran fine but now it will run/ cut great for an hour or so then flood again.
Took off carb/bowl , cleaned jet/carb and it ran fine again.
Looks like I’m still getting junk in my fuel.
The only thing I did not replace is the vacuum fuel pump and the metal fuel line going from pump to rubber line before carb.
Are those metal lines prone to rusting inside?
You don't actually need to use a socket to make a puller. What I did was a combo of this video and another I saw, in which the guy grabbed the bolt he ran in with a pair of channel locks then rapped the channel lock pliers with a rubber mallet to drive it out. The advantage in THIS video however is that the other guy just ran a SCREW into the seat. Using a tap to make 1/4 X 20 threads makes a lot more sense to me because it is a more controlled method with no chance of tearing things up beyond all repair... In my mind - wood screws and metal items (carbs especially) need to be kept far away from each other.
A last note: Most carb kits for these come with several different parts. There will be TWO inlet valve seats, because the one with a smaller orifice is for engines supplied by a fuel PUMP, the other seat in the kit has a LARGER orifice - and is for gravity fed fuel systems.
Nice demo. I repectfully add that although its more common with copper floats. its always a good idea to give the float a shake to ensure no fuel is in it. I just installed the needle valve only in mine and its still flooding so its coming apart again to see what happened
check the float setting you may have it set too high so it want stop fuel flow as the fuel fills the bowl it should stop the fuel incoming with that little rubber tip needle if thats not happening it will flood
Your the man donyboy, best video's on u tube. well explained. well done...
How do you get the proper kit for the carburetor? where is the # Excellent videos.
great video. excellent photography, good editing. thanks
+James Mullins thanks James, have a good weekend
After 5 hours trying, I went to depot and made the puller. took 2 min. thanks. sadly, tapping the new seat in, smooshed the top of the seat and misshaped it. The needle wouldn’t go into it. Had to pull it and toss it.
PLAYwithGregg A wood dowel,slightly larger than the seat,as a punch,will prevent that.
I used a Vice to squeeze it in. Works perfectly.
Do you have a part number for the seat that requires a fuel pump. It’s the smaller hole seat...
thanks
Thank you! This is a lot of help to a laymen, like myself, so I can do my own repairs. Your video is very well made!
+Clarence Pinkerton thanks
Is that the same gx160 from that pressure washer?
I know there is a difference in fuel filters white vs red. Thanks!
JohnT Where does this fit in here?
White filter has I believe 75 micron size screen and supposed to be for fuel pump units/Red for gravity feed units and 150 micron size
Hey Donnie grade video I have a 16 horsepower Briggs & Stratton with a Nikki carburetor on it and it's flooding the engine same as what you got going on there I remove the carburetor and it looks like it's missing the jet there's no jet inside! So maybe the previous owner open it up and lost it I just wanted to see if all Nikki carburetors have that jet inside there or there is some who don't
Elite Edi Nikki carbs are not even from this planet.
If you are talking about the little brass screw "jet", not many will have that feature.
Ive made this repair on an old B/S tractor and know it works, thanks for making a nice clean video of how to do it!
Smashing :-D, i like your tap method, controlled extraction with minimal force ;-D
+zx8401ztv thanks
hi dony
. l need your help to re- wire a riding lawn mower that has shut off fuel carburetor valve . l would like to make it simple. l will appreciate that please ......
I am glad I found your site. This video is excellent. Great camera work, details, and explanation as well. Excellent clinic doctor!
make sure you're subscribed
@@donyboy73 You Know IT!
If you don't have a narrow open end wrench for the solenoid removal and don't want to grind down a good wrench, a wire stripper/coax tool works just fine I found. FYI
Hi Donny: Great Video, I ordered parts the other day as far as the Toro installation tool I was told it is discontinued !!
Thanks for the demonstration! I'll be doing this repair as soon as the parts come in.
hey i was wondering if you know where if and where briggs ad station may sell the whole carb
ua-cam.com/video/5o4WzPxI5Ek/v-deo.html go to www.discountonlineparts.com/search.php?s=791886&x=51&y=5 and use code donyboy73discount at checkout and u will get a discount
@@donyboy73 Thanks for the help
Great info as always
zyplex1
sure appreciate this and all your videos Don... very easy to understand ... you make my life a lot easier. thanks muchly
Blew my mind dernit that little jig you made. 👍👍Makes me happy to see ppl who not only use knowledge but give as well. Excellent video. Thank you sir. I will probably use this info many times over.
A little confusion over here. Wouldnt the fuel in the crankcase be the result of a faulty solenoid? If it fails to stop fuel from going up the jet and in the carb making its way to the crankcase shouldnt the anti-backfire solenoid be the repair? In my mind if the fuel gets past the plunger in the solenoid in normal operation the fuel level in the bowl goes down,in turn the float in the bowl goes down and allows fuel to enter past the needle and seat. Sounds like the problem is the solenoid. Where did I go wrong here? Thanks Zombie Dave
Oh, and I really like your videos and the time and effort you put into them. Thanks for all the videos brother.
Nope.
Bowl fills up.
Float comes up.
Needle shuts off fuel.
Solenoid shuts off fuel to prevent fuel from being drawn in at shut off.
As you know,the engine continues to turn for a few revolutions after the key is turned to off.
Turning off shorts the spark plug coil to ground,but if fuel is still being drawn in to the cylinder on the run down revolutions it can ignite on the hot exhaust parts and backfire.
That is ALL that solenoid is for.
Just to prevent backfire at rundown.
one thing I noticed that when the carb has a very slow flooding problem - I would check the Viton needle that sits on the needle, I noticed on the one I am working on- the Viton is not sitting flat on the needle - it is "canted" so the Viton is not square with the needle housing, - I am going to get a new needle and see if that cures the slow leak.
Homemade tools are the best! :)
Thanks that was excellent I didn't know you could thread them without breaking the housing
Once again you have helped me with your video. Thankyou so much for posting these!
Salesman told me replacing the needle and seat probably would'nt fix the problem. Mower now runs better than ever!
Thanks again!
really order buy carb number ?
Great video young man. Will be ordering parts to repair my mower. Easy instructions to follow.
Excellent video! New subscriber here. Thanks for sharing!
I watched a video last night where a guy pulled a needle valve seat, but your way is much, much better. Tapping for a ¼" bolt is way more precise and makes sure the seat comes straight up. His was pulled at an angle. I'll find an old ⅜" socket and thin it out on my bench grinder. He did compare the depth to the exposed darker mark on the other seat in contrast to the shiny seated part, so that's a good way to check. I'm looking for a carb adjustment procedure for a Briggs carb on a 4-stroke Briggs 20 HP single cylinder OHV in my tractor mower, but ran across this one, which was great. If you have one, please give me a link for it. Thanks and Happy Holidays.
How about cleaning the seat instead of replacing it?
it would still leak
I use the bolt and nut , I like the jet screwdriver
TY FOR A VERY GOOD VIDEO, LEARN A LOT ON CARBS. GOD BLESS
No video to be seen, but could hear you tho.
if you need parts for your mower trY E- REPLACEMENT i think its in utah they have parts for all kinds of eng
Perfect timing for me. I need to replace two for both my tractors I have the parts and was struggling to find a good way to remove the old seat
Worked like a charm for me! Thank you for showing how to replace the seat with common tools!
i was gonna do this and they wanted $15 for a little plastic needle valve, went on ebay and bought a whole new carb for $13... why bother
im having an issue with a yard machine push mower with powermore 173cc engine that everytime i stop the engine it gets flood and is imposible to start it again unless i take out the spark clean it and let dry the engine for a few minutes.
can it be the float needle?
the push mower is like 3 months old only used 3 or 4 times.
thanks!
+Johnny Gonzalez yes I would replace the float needle
+donyboy73 thanks, i was pointed to that and now i realize that powermore engines are crappy stuff with out any support in the US even mtd customer support doenst now about that 173cc engine,it seems they erased any trace of it!! mayne if i take the needle to a shop i can find one similar!
I can't
Too long a show just asked what to do for a gas flooding carb
I guess I'll change the needle value
Thanks for noticing
Hi I have a tecumseh carburetor I replaced everything and it still flooding
Just put a cheap fuel valve in the line and shut it off each time you stop the mower . They do make electric shutoff valves the open when you turn the key to start .
Can you help?? Please!! I had a walbro54993 Briggs and Stratton... So I had exactly as per this video..flooding in oil etc... So I changed to a new carb... Replacement..54993 carb.. test drove for an hour and hey presto new carb starts flooding and filling engine with gas... What else could it be?????.
where did you get your carb?
Hello I have a 18 twin engine and is to hard to turn on can you help me to find where the valves I to adjusted in bring and stratton
HELLO Thanks a lot.i am french and no vidéo on PREVENT FLOODING -Needle Valve & Seat Replacement On Briggs
pas encore ce video en francais mais facile a suivre quand meme
OUI parfait effectivement mais ça complique pour les recherches you tube,surtout pour ceux qui ne savent pas que l'anglais existe .Merci Thanks
Thanks Don!
I broke the "idiot proof" mixture screw off of a new Walbro carb for a 12hp Briggs (by not using the correct tool to adjust it). It broke just below the surface, so it is difficult to extract. Any suggestions to remove it? I wish they didn't make hardware that requires special tools to adjust.
Its harder doing alot of things without a vice though so id do it by holding it on my lap and on the ground
8:22 you said "homemade wrench." XD
Mario & Luigi 135 I thought I had missed him mentioning that earlier on.
Thank you for your nice video. I have the same problem with Kohler pro 17HP OHV engine carburetor. I only replaced with a new needle, not the seat. Still has flooding. I am planning to replace the seat as you showed. Can I use 690577 for my carb? Thanks.
Dony, what can I say ? you da man ! I don't even own that lawn tractor but I learned a lot watching this ! thank you !
Hi Donny: My tractor has a B+S Engine W/a Walbro Carb. which I replaced 1 year ago. I have the problem w/gas in the oil. When I replaced the carb I did notice that the intake valve turned blue in color. What does that mean?? Also will this video cover a Walbro Carburetor???
I had my mower repairman put on a new carburetor on my Craftsman LT1000 two years ago. The mower hasn't been used much during that time and for that reason, my thinking is the needle and/or the float may just be fouled with gunk from the fuel. Because it seems unlikely to have gone bad in such a short time. The mower was stored indoors and the fuel drained from the tank. However, before replacing any of the carburetor parts, I'm going to remove the bowl, float and needle and give them a good cleaning with carb cleaner to see if that fixes the problem. I will, however, change the oil because I'm certain there is gas in it. It was running well but blowing white smoke as it ran.
Any "hollow ground" (like gunsmiths use) screwdriver or bit that fits is suitable for jets but never wedge-shaped screwdrivers. If you use a Dremel and grind a hollow ground steel bit so it looks like )( from the side it will grip damaged jets much better and of course be less likely to damage stuck jets.
I am wondering if I could do this on an old Eska 5hp outboard motor. Original carb had a vitron tipped needle and brass seat, cannot find a proper replacement, the carb kit I ordered had a solid needle and viton seal for the seat which doesn't work for my application. Interesting process, I should be able to find something comparable. As always, very informative and really like the improvised tools used. :)
clever extraction method.
I used to rebuild carbs but now there are 3rd party nikki type carbs on ebay for $28 shipped. its like 10 bucks more than the rebuild kits and takes like 3 mins to change out haha.
I'm having a problem with my craft mans tractor. I keep burning out my magneto, I've replaced three last summer.please help don
Dony, this version of a Nikki carb has the float that is actually parallel with the roof of the carb. The Nikki version with two screws with new parts has the float that is just about touching the roof of the carb. Yet it runs perfect. Just saying fella. Nice video too. VF
Hi I have a single stage toro snow blower clone.should I make a new skid in the bottom or are there replacement for it ?says it's a 3-20"??
Yeah, I flipped mine over and the float did not move. That was how gummed up the needle valve had become. I just bought s new carb. Easy peasy.
Still need to pressure test the new needle. 7psi for 30 minutes.
Great video. Is this the same for the 2 cylinder, 16.5 HP. The symptoms sound the same.
Great video Donyboy. I have a question, mine is not getting gas into the oil. My problem is I have to choke the lawnmower to start engine when cold then turn the choke off. The engine puffs black smoke and lacks power making me think the engine is flooded. If I shut engine off I it does not want to crank again have to let it sit awhile. I'm going to take the carb off and take it apart and clean it and all the jets. Should I replace the nettle and seat while I'm at it. Its a Kholer engine.