Great video! Decent explanation of some of the issues this will definitely cause. Was going to do something similar myself but I've decided to use the smog pump out of a 1968 Porsche 912 and just make a belt drive that will work off the flywheel. Instant low RPM boost with a tiny pocket size SC and none of the "turbo headaches"
I met Matt from Rolling Wrench at a Key West ride, his knowledge on how to properly tune a GY6 engine is absolutely amazing. I'm glad to hear that you are working with him to get your turbo GY6 sorted out. It will be awesome when its done.
Great job bro ! However I’ve always believed that their is only so much air that can be compressed , The test is the challenge because nobody really knows . But thanks for the R&D
Why didn’t you try a Lectron carb? They don’t necessarily feed fuel on throttle position like most other carbs. On the Lectron fuel flow into the system is dictated by air flow. I think it’d be cool to see if the Lectron with its built in buffer zones can handle a turbo.
Thank you very much for the information. Didn't even cross my mind to use a lectron carb. Do you reckon it could handle blow through or same setup as this in draw through?
@@RuckStyleUK From what I’ve seen on how they work, I actually think it’s possible. Never seen anyone do it, and it’s not a small investment. Those carbs aren’t cheap. But they do offer some buffer for fluctuations in AFR. They do it via air flow. So if the air is flowing through the carb, the carb allows for extra fuel. Or at least that’s my understanding.
All carbs are super easy to blow through all carbs work fairly the same. I do love the metering rods but I make more power with a mjn yoshi. Iv been boosting singles for ten years and I don't recommend EFI unless your not a tech. If you build your own stuff stay blow through carb it's cheaper better in everyway makes more power I have Dyno sheets to show this especially with boost. sadly iv looked at his previous turbo bikes and listen at your own risk he's pretty shilly and his understanding isn't great.
@@RuckStyleUK the rolling wrench shill thats advising you badly man doesn't even know how to degree a cam or what a cam card is and iv looked through his work from an engine builder and racer he's trash just tryna sell crap nothing of substance just junk.
And I'm here Boe's Lukin Duke in the flat with my boy from the old country, Ruck style UK. boys and girls As Your Celebrating of the NEW CHEERS I MEAN NEW YEARS BE SURE TO HAVE A GREAT ONE ON THE ACCOUNT WE WISHED FOR YALL TO HAVE A VERY PRODUCTIVE year as You Cheers TO All Your Accomplishments!
Okay. Answer me this. With the set up you are describing, What happens when the boost pressure matches that of the fuel pressure and even is more than?
Air cooled engine that’s gotta suck. The turbo should need a oil cooler then. It’s directly connected to the engine not saying I know everything but how else should I know…
So first off iv built arguably some of the nastier turbo singles around. The gy6 has next to no oil pressure. First big hurdle. Next plenum and blow through. Carbs are so much better and your explanation of carbs is all wrong they work off pressure differential. Tuning is cake especially blow through just gotta understand carbs. My drag 155cc lost 25lbs getting rid of the conventional fuel system it's all pneumatic and very simple. Be more than willing to walk you through it. Another thing is singles boost different. I'm running a cb750 oil pump and a custom oil system in my drag bike @ 25-35psi boost racing the 660 I get about 40hrs out of a vz21 with 35psi of oil pressure. You don't have 10psi on a good day on a gy6 it will kill the turbo. Singles make lots of exhaust in little time I see full boost by 2-3000rpm on a stock Vz21. That being said if you wanna make power your gonna have to keep that in mind. A plenum is a must and it's gonna be bigger than you think you need. Atleast if you wanna make some jam. I race my bike so I can't be too specific but iv dynoed my 155cc over 65whp. Soon I'm gonna boost a gy6 although all I'm using is the cases and cvt the rest is going in the trash. Gy6 has some of the cheapest crap bearings iv ever seen. It doesn't take much to make the rollers square. Consider upgrading atleast the bearing on the con rod. Make sure you add ring gap. If your not gonna go into the engine don't bother. And if it's not a happy na motor making some power don't bother rpm is needed for power on singles. If you can't make na power from 7500-13000rpm don't bother itl just be like the 99% of boosted singles a joke. If your struggling to tune the carb you need a pitote tube I suggest putting it in the charge pipe that goes to the plenum. About a 1/4 tube for a 1in charge pipe should get you close you will need to play with it. The stock pulse pump from a gy6 won't work at all you can use a EFI pump and regulator but I discourage it because getting base pressure low enough for carbs is an ordeal. I recommend taking two 3/4in hoses from the plenum and just routing them into the gas tank make sure it's sealed good. Gravity gives you the pressure delta boost gives you the rising rate pressure. All these small singles for the most part are under flowing stock valves and cams don't like turbos same for carbs they should be a good bit bigger like your building a high rpm na motor. CV carbs are easier to tune for boost than round or flat slides although I consider it worth the headache to get a round slide working. Heat is an issue I use ceramics everywhere I can including the piston dome. Studs are weak in my xr and their alot bigger than the gy6 I'm using cb750 studs and case savers. Copper head gasket is a must if your doing it right aswell. If you find your getting away with the stock one your doing it wrong aka not making any real power. Last I'll throw everyone a bone you can upgrade the compressor wheel. It's a 4.4mm shaft but you don't upgrade how you normally would. Take that how you will. If you can't blow through a carb this project is way out of your grasp. If you've got no idea what an emoltion tube does or how it effects jetting or airbleeds or needle profile don't bother until you learn how a carb actually works. I mean this every build iv been asked online to help with was trashed by the owner not understanding the basics. Now iv seen techs that went to school to be techs and can't clean a carb right let alone tune one don't be ashamed you don't know take that knowledge and learn. EFI is great for production for making power it adds too much for a bike. Your electrical system can't handle it well space is an issue and weight is the biggest issue. With the carb I don't need an intercooler at all iv logged iats before and after the carb in the port and with EFI it was over 100°f hotter. Follow the militaries kiss method keep it simple stupid. No offense meant just it works. For now before you ever stick a vz21 on it get the oil pump worked out. I'm sure you've already destroyed that turbo from the pull through days. I bet if you pull the comp wheel and check the trust bearing it's done already next the comp wheel will eat into the housing. Iv destroyed lots of these. You need no less than 25psi and that really should be the idle pressure not working for oil.
Nope turbo is perfect working order. Not damaged at all. The oil pump was upgraded when I rebuilt the engine. Ring gaps and everything was checked and double checked. I know how to build engines so that's not an issue.
@@RuckStyleUK I promise you have roller bearings if you check your oil pressure you don't make anywhere near enough. I run my huge oil pump to a regulator turbo then orifices to the crank and transmission and an external feed to the head. My oil pump is about 1000% bigger than the koso high volume they sell for gy6s and I still have to run it through this set up to regulate the pressure for the turbo. Put a gauge on it bet your under 10psi at idle and no higher than 15psi at redline.
@@RuckStyleUK I'm on version 9 of my xr and it's been a rough 9years developing it oil is one of those things iv had to go back and redo more than once. Even had a second crank driven oil pump just for the turbo at one point and a cam driven another.
@@RuckStyleUK I haven't seen your work idk the quality. I have seen rolling wrench and he should be ashamed of himself, missleading ppl like he does. I hope you take the advice and check the oil pressure and maybe even listen to the blow through data I gave you. You should be able to be making boost in a few hrs if you did. Also don't check plugs with boost it doesn't work get a wideband.
Blow through carb systems are completely different to draw through systems. Blow through systems are readily available for car applications and there aren't any I can see on the market for motorcycle applications. Please educate yourself before leaving negative comments
Sweet vid dude! We will get that EFI system dialed in for the turbo 💯
Hi are you based in uk I have a gy6 and I want to derestrict the rev limiter
Yes I am.
If you look back at previous videos you would have seen it running.
@@RuckStyleUKwhy not try an anti lag system 😁
@@RuckStyleUKand a bypass valve for fun
Great video! Decent explanation of some of the issues this will definitely cause. Was going to do something similar myself but I've decided to use the smog pump out of a 1968 Porsche 912 and just make a belt drive that will work off the flywheel. Instant low RPM boost with a tiny pocket size SC and none of the "turbo headaches"
I met Matt from Rolling Wrench at a Key West ride, his knowledge on how to properly tune a GY6 engine is absolutely amazing. I'm glad to hear that you are working with him to get your turbo GY6 sorted out. It will be awesome when its done.
We video call a fair bit. He's a top guy. Been exchanging information and helping each other out
EFI is the only way to go when Turbo........ Matt is the man for EFI.........Good dude.
Great job bro !
However I’ve always believed that their is only so much air that can be compressed ,
The test is the challenge because nobody really knows . But thanks for the R&D
Very nice Turbo instaling. I love it 👍
Nice video, I can't wait to see what you and Matt come up with for the turbo! 🤘 And Happy New Year!
I think larger combustion chamber for the lil cc engine would be the cure . Hence dish piston or larger head ?..??
Why didn’t you try a Lectron carb? They don’t necessarily feed fuel on throttle position like most other carbs. On the Lectron fuel flow into the system is dictated by air flow. I think it’d be cool to see if the Lectron with its built in buffer zones can handle a turbo.
Thank you very much for the information. Didn't even cross my mind to use a lectron carb. Do you reckon it could handle blow through or same setup as this in draw through?
@@RuckStyleUK
From what I’ve seen on how they work, I actually think it’s possible. Never seen anyone do it, and it’s not a small investment. Those carbs aren’t cheap. But they do offer some buffer for fluctuations in AFR. They do it via air flow. So if the air is flowing through the carb, the carb allows for extra fuel. Or at least that’s my understanding.
All carbs are super easy to blow through all carbs work fairly the same. I do love the metering rods but I make more power with a mjn yoshi. Iv been boosting singles for ten years and I don't recommend EFI unless your not a tech. If you build your own stuff stay blow through carb it's cheaper better in everyway makes more power I have Dyno sheets to show this especially with boost. sadly iv looked at his previous turbo bikes and listen at your own risk he's pretty shilly and his understanding isn't great.
You talking about me or the other guy?
@@RuckStyleUK the rolling wrench shill thats advising you badly man doesn't even know how to degree a cam or what a cam card is and iv looked through his work from an engine builder and racer he's trash just tryna sell crap nothing of substance just junk.
See you later brother as I hit all notifications so it will let me know when the next video comes
Where can I find you? I’m from Belgium and I want your help for remoddeling my Zoomer! Thanks’
Instagram, tiktok, facebook
And I'm here Boe's Lukin Duke in the flat with my boy from the old country, Ruck style UK. boys and girls As Your Celebrating of the NEW CHEERS I MEAN NEW YEARS BE SURE TO HAVE A GREAT ONE ON THE ACCOUNT WE WISHED FOR YALL TO HAVE A VERY PRODUCTIVE year as You Cheers TO All Your Accomplishments!
Wouldn't you want the turbo feeding air into the carb instead? Tune the carb rich for the added air intake?
Okay. Answer me this. With the set up you are describing, What happens when the boost pressure matches that of the fuel pressure and even is more than?
🥳 happy new year 🥳
Thank you and to you and your family
Long story short is it worth it???😊😅😅 I’m curious I’m building mine now
It was definitely fun. I'm selling the turbo kit I have
Sell the complete engine on its own?
Like 2 years too late bro. I still have the turbo kit though
Have you tried to swap the coolant for oil to lubricate the barings in the turbo?
There is no coolant on a GY6 engine 🤣. It's an air cooled engine. The lines are oil feed lines
Ooooh I thought you said coolant lines that’s why I was confused my bad tho you good then
Air cooled engine that’s gotta suck. The turbo should need a oil cooler then. It’s directly connected to the engine not saying I know everything but how else should I know…
Just say keep your fucking comments to your self if there is a problem then. It works with me man..
Turbo doesn't produce enough heat to require a cooler. Air cooled engines don't suck. Look at Harley's
So first off iv built arguably some of the nastier turbo singles around. The gy6 has next to no oil pressure. First big hurdle. Next plenum and blow through. Carbs are so much better and your explanation of carbs is all wrong they work off pressure differential. Tuning is cake especially blow through just gotta understand carbs. My drag 155cc lost 25lbs getting rid of the conventional fuel system it's all pneumatic and very simple. Be more than willing to walk you through it. Another thing is singles boost different. I'm running a cb750 oil pump and a custom oil system in my drag bike @ 25-35psi boost racing the 660 I get about 40hrs out of a vz21 with 35psi of oil pressure. You don't have 10psi on a good day on a gy6 it will kill the turbo. Singles make lots of exhaust in little time I see full boost by 2-3000rpm on a stock Vz21. That being said if you wanna make power your gonna have to keep that in mind. A plenum is a must and it's gonna be bigger than you think you need. Atleast if you wanna make some jam. I race my bike so I can't be too specific but iv dynoed my 155cc over 65whp. Soon I'm gonna boost a gy6 although all I'm using is the cases and cvt the rest is going in the trash. Gy6 has some of the cheapest crap bearings iv ever seen. It doesn't take much to make the rollers square. Consider upgrading atleast the bearing on the con rod. Make sure you add ring gap. If your not gonna go into the engine don't bother. And if it's not a happy na motor making some power don't bother rpm is needed for power on singles. If you can't make na power from 7500-13000rpm don't bother itl just be like the 99% of boosted singles a joke. If your struggling to tune the carb you need a pitote tube I suggest putting it in the charge pipe that goes to the plenum. About a 1/4 tube for a 1in charge pipe should get you close you will need to play with it. The stock pulse pump from a gy6 won't work at all you can use a EFI pump and regulator but I discourage it because getting base pressure low enough for carbs is an ordeal. I recommend taking two 3/4in hoses from the plenum and just routing them into the gas tank make sure it's sealed good. Gravity gives you the pressure delta boost gives you the rising rate pressure. All these small singles for the most part are under flowing stock valves and cams don't like turbos same for carbs they should be a good bit bigger like your building a high rpm na motor. CV carbs are easier to tune for boost than round or flat slides although I consider it worth the headache to get a round slide working. Heat is an issue I use ceramics everywhere I can including the piston dome. Studs are weak in my xr and their alot bigger than the gy6 I'm using cb750 studs and case savers. Copper head gasket is a must if your doing it right aswell. If you find your getting away with the stock one your doing it wrong aka not making any real power. Last I'll throw everyone a bone you can upgrade the compressor wheel. It's a 4.4mm shaft but you don't upgrade how you normally would. Take that how you will. If you can't blow through a carb this project is way out of your grasp. If you've got no idea what an emoltion tube does or how it effects jetting or airbleeds or needle profile don't bother until you learn how a carb actually works. I mean this every build iv been asked online to help with was trashed by the owner not understanding the basics. Now iv seen techs that went to school to be techs and can't clean a carb right let alone tune one don't be ashamed you don't know take that knowledge and learn. EFI is great for production for making power it adds too much for a bike. Your electrical system can't handle it well space is an issue and weight is the biggest issue. With the carb I don't need an intercooler at all iv logged iats before and after the carb in the port and with EFI it was over 100°f hotter. Follow the militaries kiss method keep it simple stupid. No offense meant just it works. For now before you ever stick a vz21 on it get the oil pump worked out. I'm sure you've already destroyed that turbo from the pull through days. I bet if you pull the comp wheel and check the trust bearing it's done already next the comp wheel will eat into the housing. Iv destroyed lots of these. You need no less than 25psi and that really should be the idle pressure not working for oil.
Nope turbo is perfect working order. Not damaged at all. The oil pump was upgraded when I rebuilt the engine. Ring gaps and everything was checked and double checked. I know how to build engines so that's not an issue.
@@RuckStyleUK I promise you have roller bearings if you check your oil pressure you don't make anywhere near enough. I run my huge oil pump to a regulator turbo then orifices to the crank and transmission and an external feed to the head. My oil pump is about 1000% bigger than the koso high volume they sell for gy6s and I still have to run it through this set up to regulate the pressure for the turbo. Put a gauge on it bet your under 10psi at idle and no higher than 15psi at redline.
@@RuckStyleUK I'm on version 9 of my xr and it's been a rough 9years developing it oil is one of those things iv had to go back and redo more than once. Even had a second crank driven oil pump just for the turbo at one point and a cam driven another.
@@RuckStyleUK I haven't seen your work idk the quality. I have seen rolling wrench and he should be ashamed of himself, missleading ppl like he does. I hope you take the advice and check the oil pressure and maybe even listen to the blow through data I gave you. You should be able to be making boost in a few hrs if you did. Also don't check plugs with boost it doesn't work get a wideband.
try a electronic carb with a turbo
How many cc's ?
This was a refreshed stock 150cc GY6
@@RuckStyleUK ,I like this bike. Can you make this with 50 cc?
@@gerogekaren2771 I could yes, but not with the turbo.
@@RuckStyleUK ,so you can keep this same look and make with 50 cc?
@@gerogekaren2771 yes I could.
Yes it is a perttie exhaust
Much
Can't tune a carb for a turbo? Tell the carved V8 guys that and they will laugh at you lol
Blow through carb systems are completely different to draw through systems. Blow through systems are readily available for car applications and there aren't any I can see on the market for motorcycle applications. Please educate yourself before leaving negative comments
Tell that bs to the vw air cooled crowd. Draw through easier.