Why, nothing special about these guys. They spread bullshit. Theory of opinion. None of it was proven truth. It was tested for Recurve/longbow of 20/30 years ago and years longer before. Not for compounds. Not compounds of today. It is over kill and defeating the bows performance. You're killing its efficiency. The deer walks 2 or 3 yards while your drawn. You're going to miss by 8" +.
I like watching all of y’all’s videos, but this series with the ranch fairy has been an absolute eye opener, thanks for your hard work and great videos.
Brother I learned so much from watching your videos I really enjoy him I'm a Texas country boy myself One day maybe I'll get to meet you Keep them videos coming keep the Arrows flying.
I come from a traditional background. When we bareshaft tune like this with recurves and longbows. If the nock is left like that it's a weak spine. So lighten up the point weight or cut the shaft down a bit. I quarter inch to even an eighth inch goes a LONG way! On the flip side if the nock is to the right it's stiff. So add point weight, the shaft needs to be longer, or increase the draw weight on an ILF riser if you can.
really like watching yall hunt and learn but this has got to be my favorite series so far. your getting to show so many people that there are many different ways to rig your setup just like in rifle hunting. you can use a 223 with a blazing fast little pill or shoot a 45-70 that doesn't ask questions.
Hey RF, I used to shoot compound bows years ago shooting targets and loved it. Unfortunately I suffered a shoulder injury a few years ago and my compound bow days are over before I even got to go on my first archery hunt. I quit rifle hunting after my first season after being shot at by a hung over, still half drunk hunter. I haven't even been able to kill my first deer or elk yet. So I am not the type to ever quit on my passions. I just recently purchased a crossbow and look forward to hunting with it this year. I have watched many of your videos and there is so much to learn these days. All the equipment has changed so much and it is hard to keep up. So I have jumped in with both feet ( and thousands of $$$!). So, here is some of what I have learned so far and will be taking to the field for my first hunt. First, I shoot my bow every day, I try to shoot 50 arrows if my shoulder will allow it. I have my groups at around 1-1/2" up to 40 yards. That's the farthest I can shoot in my back yard, but if I am a responsible hunter, I won't take a shot over 50 yards anyway. Second, I will always use fixed blade cut on contact broadheads. I currently own the Magnus Stinger 4 blade 125gr. My bow loves 22" Victory arrows made at the factory for Mission crossbows. I ran across these arrows completely by accident when I purchased a Mission crossbow accessory kit. I bought that kit just for Hawke XB-1 scope and it came with 3 Victory arrows. I now own 12 of these amazing arrows. The Magnus broadheads fly like a laser beam and are amazingly durable as you know. My hunting arrows are 462gr total with a 19.3% FOC shooting at around 360fps which delivers aprox. 125 ft lbs of energy. Would love to know your opinion and if you have any suggestions or advise, I'm all ears. As you can see I am currently using factory arrows, factory fletched, and with factory inserts. I purchased a Bitzenburger fletching tool and have it set up for crossbow arrows and have been practicing. I find it difficult to find the different parts to build my own crossbow arrows. From the half moon nocks, to heavier inserts etc. Especially since I am limited to the heavier spined arrows for shooting 360+- fps. But I am still learning and look forward to building some arrows from the ground up with proper tuning! I also have a medical background, It started as a volunteer firefighter, then an EMT-B, and became a paramedic. I love when you do piggy autopsies so we can see exactly how the broadheads perform. That is why I will only use fixed, cut on contact broadheads. That way, the only thing that can fuck up is me!! Going to pick up some Iron Will heads too! Anywhoo, thanks so much for all your hard work and taking the time to help guys like me. I feel confident that with your help and the help of others, that my first hunt will be successful! Oh, and do me a favor, if you hear the word "bolt" when someone if referring to crossbows, please slap them upside their head for me! It's a fucking arrow!! LOL Thanks!!
I dig this stuff. I often play with head weight for a decent spine reaction but I also "force" my bow to shoot within 25g of my desired arrow weight. Currently I have my bow drilling a 520g arrow and I can adjust head weight up to 600g total. With a little more tinkering you can tune your bow for just about any arrow/head weight. Sometimes it means measuring center shot, messing with the rest and playing with draw weight but I always figure it out. Often without a bow press. This is a great start for spine tuning, I'm glad Troy and THP are showing the world how this works.
Second year bow hunting. Ranch fairy helped me get a 650ish grain arrow setup (250 spine) on a 30.5 inch draw with 75 lb (VXR) via UA-cam comments. The bow shop thought I was insane, and kept pulling out the arrow charts lol. Holy crap I’m glad I trusted in the RF 🧚♂️ When my arrows hit the bag target it literally tips it backwards with some serious force. My friends can’t believe the impact the arrows have, and how quiet it is compared to my old 340 spine “Twizzlers”. I’m a believer!!! Seriously though, it’s worth the effort and becomes common sense (not so common) after you invest the time in relearning.
Addendum: Went up to 700+ grains and am hitting bullseyes every shot now. Wild stuff. So glad i can just copy and paste instead of having to do all the pesky analysis and trails. Thanks guys
My luck: Do all the tuning get the perfect flight, don't see a single deer all year lol Thanks for the awesome videos with the Ranch Fairy the man is a wealth of knowledge!
Love this stuff. Just turned 50, bought my first bow (elite Kure.) I have put over 1000 arrows down range. I bought from the shop I thought would work with me. Mind you he never had me shoot my bow through paper. Found the RF and reached out to my shop and said “hey can I get a dozen victory rip elites 300 spine. I want to work on increasing the weight.” Shop guy scoffed! “You just need to shoot the set up I gave you. It is tuned perfectly and spine is perfect. Just get you a 100g mechanical and you are set. I have killed a bunch of deer.” The set up he sold me is a 100g field point total weight 390g victory 340 spine rip gamer. That is a pro shop failure... I am a curious person. I cut the fletching off all the arrows he sold me. Shot every arrow, 20 times through paper at specific distances with “the perfect set up he gave me.” EVery arrow high right tear between 3 and 4 inches! This is the reason I bought a Kure. I raised the rest, turned slightly more than a quarter on the Kure set tech, shot 20 times each arrow and now the bow shoots bullet holes... most of the time. Now that the bow shoots right, I am moving on to buying my shafts from someone else and working on increasing to the single bevel I want to shoot. Keep up the great work.
A few years back I got back into bow hunting. So I head out to the pro shop and bought a new bow. Never was satisfied. Long story short I ended up buying 3 more bows from different pro shops. Still not satisfied. Only when I learned to tune the bows I now owned was I happy. My point being now a days pro shops don’t care or don’t know any better. If u going to shoot a bow , I think u need to tune it yourself. For me it wasn’t plug and play.
Had a cheap chinese bow and wanted to upgrade it, ended up getting a new Bear Adapt and found out that you guys are founders of it. Totally love it guys!
RF - thank you!! I’ve worked through the Bareshaft process through Sirius and recently put on evolution 2.0 broadheads. Field point and broadheads are spot on! THP I’ve enjoyed the evolution of your arrow setups as well.
Just started to get into archery been getting ready for the season to start. And id like to say this is one of the first videos i understood. Any other tuning video ive watched goes from simple to real complex real damn quick
Taking slow motion videos of your arrow launch and flight is SOOOO HELPFUL. I learned this years ago when i was filming my 6yo son shoot his BEAR compound bow. He was having flight issues. The arrow was leaving almost sideways. At 1st i thought it was just his inexperience. So i decided to take a slow motion video to see and show him what he was possibly doing wrong. To our surprise, it wasn't really him at all. 1st his notch loop was high so the arrow was aiming down a bit. 2nd his whisker biscuit was off set, so at launch it would kick the arrow sideways. I adjusted those and his accuracy skyrocketed and the biggest plus was he right then fell in love with shooting his bow. Dad life.... there is NOTHING BETTER
I dream of a day when people actually take time to tune their arrows to their set-up. I've seen SO many people leave a shop with the same fast bow, snazzy arrows, 100gr heads and no thought to whether any of it plays well together. Keep up the good gospel work, fellas. Appreciate your efforts!
A fast and dirty French walk back tuning is just another step once you done with that you can fine tune with bare shaft tuning rather quickly and get great broadhead flight out of some large fixed blade heads. Just as squaring everything up as first step reduces general issues. There is a reason why the Pros use these methods - they save time when applied for proper training.
Ranch Fairy, I'm going to show all of my students with ADHD your videos to prove to them that you can be extremely successful even if they hate school. I hadn't watched a lot of your videos because the thumbnails always seemed click baitish, but I love what you just did here with the Hunting Public.
I needed this video. I got my grip mostly under control and I get a constant nock left like Jake did with my 29.5inch long 300spine. I've got the Sirius 250/300 on order hopefully I can get mine flying like darts!
The first time you bare shaft tune and everything comes together, it is mesmerizing. I kept shooting the bare shaft over and over trying to get it to lie to me, but it kept going in straight. If you get the the point where it sometimes flies perfect and other times, not as perfect, most likely it is YOU, not the arrow set up. A bare shaft that is not set up with the right point weight will NEVER fly right. Bring on the "quartering to" shots. Deer Kebab season starts in one week here. Keep posting the interesting videos.
7:33 the arrow naturally wanted to spin left out of that bow, fletchings are forcing it to spin right. You can see it’ll come out of the bow spinning left then after about 3-5 yards it’ll stop spinning and start spinning right. Not a huge deal but you’ll absolutely get more consistent arrow flight and quicker arrow stabilization if you make sure your arrows are fletched the right way. Easiest way to check is to get a bare shaft and nock it onto the string, mark the top of the nock with a sharpie and shoot it into a target at 2-3 yards, check which way the nock spun and then fletch your arrows accordingly!
@@TheHuntingPublic always happy to help when it comes to tuning! There’s a lot of little things that most people wouldn’t even think about that can make arrow flight sporadic!
NICE! Shooting Recurves and Longbows for going on 40 years, We always believe in HIGH FOC. 100 grain Brass inserts and from 150 to 200 grain broad heads . I shot a Doe with a 45# Longbow Douglas Fir Wooden Arrow 50/55 # spine cut to 28". 250 grain Tusker Concorde [ from Australia ] broad head. 22yards she ducked on the shot. I severed her spine. Easy recovery! Jake for Your Longbow, IMHO the best shooting Carbons out of Traditional Bows is a Gold Tip Traditional 500 35/55 if Your Longbow is around 50#s .Cut an inch longer than your draw length. Standard 35/45 gn insert with a Magnus Stinger 150 gn. Please try to do more Traditional Archery Hunts. That Bow Shop You Folks go to has a Bear Kodiak Recurve hanging for sale. I saw it on the wall when Warb was paper tuning. You should try shooting that bow next time you go up there. Keep up the great videos! My Bud Ron from KME knows Ranch Fairy apparently.
Watching y'all's videos got me ditching my 400 carbons (30" draw) and 100 grain fixed heads and going to 350 carbons and 150-160 grain fixed heads. I never shoot past 20 yards (mainly because I just ain't that good with a bow lol). Besides, it's fun to mess around with different setups and it's good practice.
Big fan of his average archer approach. Only things I'd add are to have a shop ensure your cams are timed right and rest is at or very close to centershot. After that I do exactly how he does it. Couple shots through paper and then go out and shoot bareshafts 10-20yds at a target and check flight. Average archers need to be aware that your form will influence a bareshaft A LOT so shoot the same setup a few times and check for consistency before make adjustments otherwise you'll chase yourself around...I've done this and it's frustrating haha
The details of tuning Jake's bow were practical, fascinating, and VERY helpful. I didn't hear a single word about how the final changes may have affected Jake's arrow speed, which is an issue that-in my limited experience-is WAY overemphasized. Earlier footage in this great Ranch Fairy/THP series showed that no bow, regardless of its speed, is going to beat an animal's "ducking." Unless I'm confused (entirely possible), you have made a virtually ironclad argument that straight arrow flight, accuracy, and penetration are far more important in hunting.
That's what I wound up having a perfect bullet hole with 27.5 inch arrow, but with a 300 spine. 62 lb draw. It's a beast but perfect bullet holes bare shaft. Going to use Aboyer single bevels, which are fabulous-looking heads
So what is the difference from what you guys are doing and paper tuning? Like I'm watching it and trying to figure out if I need to do this after paper tuning or before or not at all?
Paper tune helps check a lot of bow related issues usually. With the arrow stuff, you can retune again. Usually you start bare shaft, standard insert and use the tips and get a clean hole. That includes just nock tuning a little. Then you go to the actually inserts, tune them, nock tune, and fletch.
I NEED the ranch fairy in more videos, just like I need air to breathe.... all around enjoyable educational content. I’d pay for him to watch me shoot for half a day. Would be better spent money then buying a new set up!!
Traditional archers knew about bare shaft testing for a while now. Look up Black Widow archery with Ken Beck and you'll learn all types of things about arrow paradox and tuning.
I have an almost IDENTICAL set up as Jake. Bear Kuma LD except a 30.5" draw. I was having the EXACT same problem with a nock low and left tear. Crazy how individualistic some models can be. I ended up with a 30" arrow with a 100gr insert and 125gr tip. Still left a little nock low tear, but it was good enough for me.
@@JayN4GO I yoke tuned and still didn't seem to make a difference. I was beginning to think I got a bad batch of limbs, but now after seeing Jake with the same problem, I don't think so. My heads shoot with my fp's out to my max hunting distance, so I'm no longer worried about what it did through paper.
I'm tinkering with a biw now that I thought I had figured out and like said he told me to keep at it start over and don't quit. No for pig shot with Jack's new set up video!
I’ve been watching these videos and decided to do it. Ordered the ranch fairy special the other day. Can’t wait to try it out. Although I would be nice to have all the stuff that you guys have at the test lab. (Tons of broad heads and arrows to test) Great vid thanks for the help!
I got my bare shafts flying great left to right but my bare shafts are coming in nock low. I’ve tried moving the d loop up and down probably a hundred times. I’ve also tried different weight up front, lowering the poundage, adjusting my form. Only thing that helped a little was moving the d loop. I did try shooting a magnus hornet into duck tape with a feildpoint arrow shot beside it. It turned out great but my bareshafts are nock low and it driving me crazy.
I am new to archery and I have a question, wouldn't it be better or basically have the same results to run a 100gr broadhead and a 400 or 500 spline arrow? Looking for information still trying to learn.
So I bought a ranch fairy test kit. Every bare shaft arrow/field point combo I shoot is tail high. Took it to the bow shop and they adjusted the D loop cause it was low and my timing was slightly off. Came home shot the arrows again and same thing all tail high. What is going on? Please help. 😩
Have just recently found your videos and am really enjoying them. I am thinking about following some of your advice. This video has me wondering, before any adjustments are made is there a particular rest that needs to be utilized?
Knock high/low can be more than a rest timing or rest movement. You should always make sure the timing of your cams are set correctly, especially before moving the rest to correct a nock high or low result. You could end up chasing your tail all day. I get that tinkering may "work" ( masking issues). At a longer draw length, it's very common to get a nock low tear due to nock pinch from the extreme angle of the string at the d loop. So tinkering isn't always the answer, do some research first or take it to someone that knows
Have you guys ever came across an Accu Rest compound bow? It shoots a 4" arrow where the fletchings are the blades? Curious on how to find the F.O.C and other specs....?
I have to ask this question out of 1000% ignorance. First I don't shoot a vertical bow, but crossbows, because of that I don't know much about using a vertical bow. My question is did changing the poundage affect anything related to drawing other ease? Something like anchor point etc?
Most broadheads are 100 or 125 grs. I really like the broadheads I'm shooting but I'd like to have 200 grs, is there something to add to increase the weight ?
The most common thing is to add heavier inserts and then reinforced collars on the outside. If you are worried about foc, reduce weight on back end with lighter fletchings.
I got the ranch fairy special a few weeks ago, some 100-200 grain inserts from Ethics Archery and my 300 spine arrows are supposed to come Monday. Enough of the flappers and twizzlers.
Poundage and speed mean nothing.. Numbers are numbers some people get to focused on what someone else said works the best but everyone is different and every bow setup is different. Thanks for all the great videos guys.. May your arrows fly true and your broadheads always be sharp!!
I'm currently shooting a bear areana 30 3/4 and it's a 60 pound bow but it's shooting better at about 58lbs with a 30 inch draw and 475 to 500 grain 350 spine arrow. But have not started yet with my bare shaft tinkering ... So after that we shall see what is what then....lol
See the only problem I have with it is your arrow takes forever to get there so of course your animal is going to move. They always move but with a fast arrow I’m blowing straight through. I guess you can talk about the majority maybe you have one flapper that hits a bone out of 100. But I’ll keep my rage twizler shooting 340ft per second
hope to see the ranch fairy on some whitetail hunts this year with you guys
That would be awesome. THP + Ranch Fairy = Best UA-cam Collaboration
Why, nothing special about these guys. They spread bullshit. Theory of opinion. None of it was proven truth. It was tested for Recurve/longbow of 20/30 years ago and years longer before. Not for compounds. Not compounds of today. It is over kill and defeating the bows performance. You're killing its efficiency. The deer walks 2 or 3 yards while your drawn. You're going to miss by 8" +.
I like watching all of y’all’s videos, but this series with the ranch fairy has been an absolute eye opener, thanks for your hard work and great videos.
I feel like I learned more from this video than I have in all my time bow hunting
I wanna thank Troy for bringing the boys down for some really great hunting video entertainment. Great Job guys...
Plus the bow was quiter & he can now hold for like 5 minutes for the perfect shot. 315fps will not do that for u.
Brother I learned so much from watching your videos I really enjoy him I'm a Texas country boy myself One day maybe I'll get to meet you Keep them videos coming keep the Arrows flying.
I come from a traditional background. When we bareshaft tune like this with recurves and longbows. If the nock is left like that it's a weak spine. So lighten up the point weight or cut the shaft down a bit. I quarter inch to even an eighth inch goes a LONG way! On the flip side if the nock is to the right it's stiff. So add point weight, the shaft needs to be longer, or increase the draw weight on an ILF riser if you can.
Unless you're a lefty like me! Haha Just switch it.
really like watching yall hunt and learn but this has got to be my favorite series so far. your getting to show so many people that there are many different ways to rig your setup just like in rifle hunting. you can use a 223 with a blazing fast little pill or shoot a 45-70 that doesn't ask questions.
Didn't know there was a 223 arrow spine?
I myself happen to be a common porch folk so I liked that alot. Great instruction for some great applications. Tuffheads look pretty serious. Hmmm....
Hey RF, I used to shoot compound bows years ago shooting targets and loved it. Unfortunately I suffered a shoulder injury a few years ago and my compound bow days are over before I even got to go on my first archery hunt. I quit rifle hunting after my first season after being shot at by a hung over, still half drunk hunter. I haven't even been able to kill my first deer or elk yet. So I am not the type to ever quit on my passions. I just recently purchased a crossbow and look forward to hunting with it this year. I have watched many of your videos and there is so much to learn these days. All the equipment has changed so much and it is hard to keep up. So I have jumped in with both feet ( and thousands of $$$!). So, here is some of what I have learned so far and will be taking to the field for my first hunt. First, I shoot my bow every day, I try to shoot 50 arrows if my shoulder will allow it. I have my groups at around 1-1/2" up to 40 yards. That's the farthest I can shoot in my back yard, but if I am a responsible hunter, I won't take a shot over 50 yards anyway. Second, I will always use fixed blade cut on contact broadheads. I currently own the Magnus Stinger 4 blade 125gr. My bow loves 22" Victory arrows made at the factory for Mission crossbows. I ran across these arrows completely by accident when I purchased a Mission crossbow accessory kit. I bought that kit just for Hawke XB-1 scope and it came with 3 Victory arrows. I now own 12 of these amazing arrows. The Magnus broadheads fly like a laser beam and are amazingly durable as you know. My hunting arrows are 462gr total with a 19.3% FOC shooting at around 360fps which delivers aprox. 125 ft lbs of energy. Would love to know your opinion and if you have any suggestions or advise, I'm all ears.
As you can see I am currently using factory arrows, factory fletched, and with factory inserts. I purchased a Bitzenburger fletching tool and have it set up for crossbow arrows and have been practicing. I find it difficult to find the different parts to build my own crossbow arrows. From the half moon nocks, to heavier inserts etc. Especially since I am limited to the heavier spined arrows for shooting 360+- fps. But I am still learning and look forward to building some arrows from the ground up with proper tuning!
I also have a medical background, It started as a volunteer firefighter, then an EMT-B, and became a paramedic. I love when you do piggy autopsies so we can see exactly how the broadheads perform. That is why I will only use fixed, cut on contact broadheads. That way, the only thing that can fuck up is me!! Going to pick up some Iron Will heads too! Anywhoo, thanks so much for all your hard work and taking the time to help guys like me. I feel confident that with your help and the help of others, that my first hunt will be successful! Oh, and do me a favor, if you hear the word "bolt" when someone if referring to crossbows, please slap them upside their head for me! It's a fucking arrow!! LOL Thanks!!
I dig this stuff. I often play with head weight for a decent spine reaction but I also "force" my bow to shoot within 25g of my desired arrow weight. Currently I have my bow drilling a 520g arrow and I can adjust head weight up to 600g total. With a little more tinkering you can tune your bow for just about any arrow/head weight. Sometimes it means measuring center shot, messing with the rest and playing with draw weight but I always figure it out. Often without a bow press.
This is a great start for spine tuning, I'm glad Troy and THP are showing the world how this works.
Second year bow hunting. Ranch fairy helped me get a 650ish grain arrow setup (250 spine) on a 30.5 inch draw with 75 lb (VXR) via UA-cam comments. The bow shop thought I was insane, and kept pulling out the arrow charts lol. Holy crap I’m glad I trusted in the RF 🧚♂️ When my arrows hit the bag target it literally tips it backwards with some serious force. My friends can’t believe the impact the arrows have, and how quiet it is compared to my old 340 spine “Twizzlers”. I’m a believer!!! Seriously though, it’s worth the effort and becomes common sense (not so common) after you invest the time in relearning.
Addendum: Went up to 700+ grains and am hitting bullseyes every shot now. Wild stuff. So glad i can just copy and paste instead of having to do all the pesky analysis and trails. Thanks guys
Thanks for the introduction to the big RF. He’s awesome. thanks for what you do.
My luck: Do all the tuning get the perfect flight, don't see a single deer all year lol
Thanks for the awesome videos with the Ranch Fairy the man is a wealth of knowledge!
Well bright side then could have fun target shooting more and build confidence better;) glass half full haha
Love this stuff. Just turned 50, bought my first bow (elite Kure.) I have put over 1000 arrows down range. I bought from the shop I thought would work with me. Mind you he never had me shoot my bow through paper. Found the RF and reached out to my shop and said “hey can I get a dozen victory rip elites 300 spine. I want to work on increasing the weight.” Shop guy scoffed! “You just need to shoot the set up I gave you. It is tuned perfectly and spine is perfect. Just get you a 100g mechanical and you are set. I have killed a bunch of deer.” The set up he sold me is a 100g field point total weight 390g victory 340 spine rip gamer. That is a pro shop failure... I am a curious person. I cut the fletching off all the arrows he sold me. Shot every arrow, 20 times through paper at specific distances with “the perfect set up he gave me.” EVery arrow high right tear between 3 and 4 inches! This is the reason I bought a Kure. I raised the rest, turned slightly more than a quarter on the Kure set tech, shot 20 times each arrow and now the bow shoots bullet holes... most of the time. Now that the bow shoots right, I am moving on to buying my shafts from someone else and working on increasing to the single bevel I want to shoot. Keep up the great work.
A few years back I got back into bow hunting. So I head out to the pro shop and bought a new bow. Never was satisfied. Long story short I ended up buying 3 more bows from different pro shops. Still not satisfied. Only when I learned to tune the bows I now owned was I happy. My point being now a days pro shops don’t care or don’t know any better. If u going to shoot a bow , I think u need to tune it yourself. For me it wasn’t plug and play.
Had a cheap chinese bow and wanted to upgrade it, ended up getting a new Bear Adapt and found out that you guys are founders of it. Totally love it guys!
RF - thank you!! I’ve worked through the Bareshaft process through Sirius and recently put on evolution 2.0 broadheads. Field point and broadheads are spot on! THP I’ve enjoyed the evolution of your arrow setups as well.
I got a new bow this year, bare shaft tuned 3 times and finally got it right the third time. Thanks for all of the advice
Just started to get into archery been getting ready for the season to start. And id like to say this is one of the first videos i understood. Any other tuning video ive watched goes from simple to real complex real damn quick
Got the ranch fairy test kit from Sirius archery. I’m setting up the arrows and testing this weekend. Can’t wait!
Taking slow motion videos of your arrow launch and flight is SOOOO HELPFUL. I learned this years ago when i was filming my 6yo son shoot his BEAR compound bow. He was having flight issues. The arrow was leaving almost sideways. At 1st i thought it was just his inexperience. So i decided to take a slow motion video to see and show him what he was possibly doing wrong. To our surprise, it wasn't really him at all. 1st his notch loop was high so the arrow was aiming down a bit. 2nd his whisker biscuit was off set, so at launch it would kick the arrow sideways.
I adjusted those and his accuracy skyrocketed and the biggest plus was he right then fell in love with shooting his bow.
Dad life.... there is NOTHING BETTER
I rarely comment. But I am touched by the effort you took for your son so he could enjoy the bow in his hands. 👍
@@graysinga3456 thank you Gray Singa.
Dad life... there is NOTHING better!
🤘😁👍🇺🇸
I dream of a day when people actually take time to tune their arrows to their set-up. I've seen SO many people leave a shop with the same fast bow, snazzy arrows, 100gr heads and no thought to whether any of it plays well together. Keep up the good gospel work, fellas. Appreciate your efforts!
Absolutely love it!
Dude these are my favorite videos lately. Heavy arrows and how to tune your own bow. Finally. Thank you Jesus
Can't wait for you to stick one of those arrows in a big whitetail this fall.
They don't stick they pass through
A fast and dirty French walk back tuning is just another step once you done with that you can fine tune with bare shaft tuning rather quickly and get great broadhead flight out of some large fixed blade heads. Just as squaring everything up as first step reduces general issues. There is a reason why the Pros use these methods - they save time when applied for proper training.
Wow, that was a big difference from start to end.
Ranch Fairy, I'm going to show all of my students with ADHD your videos to prove to them that you can be extremely successful even if they hate school. I hadn't watched a lot of your videos because the thumbnails always seemed click baitish, but I love what you just did here with the Hunting Public.
I needed this video. I got my grip mostly under control and I get a constant nock left like Jake did with my 29.5inch long 300spine. I've got the Sirius 250/300 on order hopefully I can get mine flying like darts!
The first time you bare shaft tune and everything comes together, it is mesmerizing. I kept shooting the bare shaft over and over trying to get it to lie to me, but it kept going in straight. If you get the the point where it sometimes flies perfect and other times, not as perfect, most likely it is YOU, not the arrow set up. A bare shaft that is not set up with the right point weight will NEVER fly right. Bring on the "quartering to" shots. Deer Kebab season starts in one week here. Keep posting the interesting videos.
Bro I literally wanna go to this guys ranch!
Love the RF!
7:33 the arrow naturally wanted to spin left out of that bow, fletchings are forcing it to spin right. You can see it’ll come out of the bow spinning left then after about 3-5 yards it’ll stop spinning and start spinning right. Not a huge deal but you’ll absolutely get more consistent arrow flight and quicker arrow stabilization if you make sure your arrows are fletched the right way. Easiest way to check is to get a bare shaft and nock it onto the string, mark the top of the nock with a sharpie and shoot it into a target at 2-3 yards, check which way the nock spun and then fletch your arrows accordingly!
That’s a good tip!
@@TheHuntingPublic always happy to help when it comes to tuning! There’s a lot of little things that most people wouldn’t even think about that can make arrow flight sporadic!
gotta try that anchor
thanks
Digging these ranch fairy vids
Good stuff! Can’t wait to see your success this fall with all your new arrow set ups.
love the wisconsin shirt
Another great vid with frank advice!
NICE! Shooting Recurves and Longbows for going on 40 years, We always believe in HIGH FOC. 100 grain Brass inserts and from 150 to 200 grain broad heads . I shot a Doe with a 45# Longbow Douglas Fir Wooden Arrow 50/55 # spine cut to 28". 250 grain Tusker Concorde [ from Australia ] broad head. 22yards she ducked on the shot. I severed her spine. Easy recovery! Jake for Your Longbow, IMHO the best shooting Carbons out of Traditional Bows is a Gold Tip Traditional 500 35/55 if Your Longbow is around 50#s .Cut an inch longer than your draw length. Standard 35/45 gn insert with a Magnus Stinger 150 gn. Please try to do more Traditional Archery Hunts. That Bow Shop You Folks go to has a Bear Kodiak Recurve hanging for sale. I saw it on the wall when Warb was paper tuning. You should try shooting that bow next time you go up there. Keep up the great videos! My Bud Ron from KME knows Ranch Fairy apparently.
Great job Jake!!! Isn't it fun shooting lower poundage!!!?
As a normal dude that shoots in the humid. Absolutely love this video
You guys are awesome, RF's series on tuning gave me the confidence to "mess with my bow" thank you guys. No more twizzlers or flappers for this guy
Watching y'all's videos got me ditching my 400 carbons (30" draw) and 100 grain fixed heads and going to 350 carbons and 150-160 grain fixed heads. I never shoot past 20 yards (mainly because I just ain't that good with a bow lol).
Besides, it's fun to mess around with different setups and it's good practice.
For the bass fisherman these people are basically the big swimbait guys of hunting
Sweet video! Sweet tips 👍💯
Awesome Work as always guys!
I like everything about this video! Problem is that I have a lack of time and money. I'm already invested in what I have for arrows.
This is what the off season is for.
God loves Ranch fairy 🧚♀️
I sure miss hearing Bobwhite quail where I live. ( I heard some in the video) Yea, I don’t get distracted much…. HaHa….
Big fan of his average archer approach. Only things I'd add are to have a shop ensure your cams are timed right and rest is at or very close to centershot. After that I do exactly how he does it. Couple shots through paper and then go out and shoot bareshafts 10-20yds at a target and check flight. Average archers need to be aware that your form will influence a bareshaft A LOT so shoot the same setup a few times and check for consistency before make adjustments otherwise you'll chase yourself around...I've done this and it's frustrating haha
The details of tuning Jake's bow were practical, fascinating, and VERY helpful. I didn't hear a single word about how the final changes may have affected Jake's arrow speed, which is an issue that-in my limited experience-is WAY overemphasized. Earlier footage in this great Ranch Fairy/THP series showed that no bow, regardless of its speed, is going to beat an animal's "ducking." Unless I'm confused (entirely possible), you have made a virtually ironclad argument that straight arrow flight, accuracy, and penetration are far more important in hunting.
That's what I wound up having a perfect bullet hole with 27.5 inch arrow, but with a 300 spine. 62 lb draw. It's a beast but perfect bullet holes bare shaft. Going to use Aboyer single bevels, which are fabulous-looking heads
So what is the difference from what you guys are doing and paper tuning? Like I'm watching it and trying to figure out if I need to do this after paper tuning or before or not at all?
Paper tune helps check a lot of bow related issues usually. With the arrow stuff, you can retune again. Usually you start bare shaft, standard insert and use the tips and get a clean hole. That includes just nock tuning a little. Then you go to the actually inserts, tune them, nock tune, and fletch.
Ranch Fairy is the GOD of 🏹 ARROWS!!! #thehuntingpublic
I'd say the "Bubba Jesus"...
I NEED the ranch fairy in more videos, just like I need air to breathe.... all around enjoyable educational content. I’d pay for him to watch me shoot for half a day. Would be better spent money then buying a new set up!!
Love this series
Traditional archers knew about bare shaft testing for a while now. Look up Black Widow archery with Ken Beck and you'll learn all types of things about arrow paradox and tuning.
The Ranch Fairy dropping fact nuggets in your cereal!
I have an almost IDENTICAL set up as Jake. Bear Kuma LD except a 30.5" draw. I was having the EXACT same problem with a nock low and left tear. Crazy how individualistic some models can be.
I ended up with a 30" arrow with a 100gr insert and 125gr tip. Still left a little nock low tear, but it was good enough for me.
I’m curious if there’s any cam lean at all? I would yoke tune to perfection. Those are very drastic flight patterns
@@JayN4GO I yoke tuned and still didn't seem to make a difference. I was beginning to think I got a bad batch of limbs, but now after seeing Jake with the same problem, I don't think so. My heads shoot with my fp's out to my max hunting distance, so I'm no longer worried about what it did through paper.
Love this video,a lot of help
I'm tinkering with a biw now that I thought I had figured out and like said he told me to keep at it start over and don't quit. No for pig shot with Jack's new set up video!
Can all of this be done even if we use a whisker biscuit rest? Or should I look into a drop away? Thanks for the great video
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a whole lot of knoledge right there
Ranch fairy never gets old the dude is a wizard 👌
I’ve been watching these videos and decided to do it. Ordered the ranch fairy special the other day. Can’t wait to try it out. Although I would be nice to have all the stuff that you guys have at the test lab. (Tons of broad heads and arrows to test) Great vid thanks for the help!
i cant find the kit on the Sirius website....wheres it at on there?
Good information, thanks for sharing!
I'm walking in heavy this season for sure.
Nock tuning WORKS!!!
Thanks keep up the great content!
I got my bare shafts flying great left to right but my bare shafts are coming in nock low. I’ve tried moving the d loop up and down probably a hundred times. I’ve also tried different weight up front, lowering the poundage, adjusting my form. Only thing that helped a little was moving the d loop. I did try shooting a magnus hornet into duck tape with a feildpoint arrow shot beside it. It turned out great but my bareshafts are nock low and it driving me crazy.
Ranch fairy needs to open up a archery shop!
I am new to archery and I have a question, wouldn't it be better or basically have the same results to run a 100gr broadhead and a 400 or 500 spline arrow? Looking for information still trying to learn.
That's the opposite approach to what we're learning here but it's up to you. It boils down to what you feel confident with
So I bought a ranch fairy test kit. Every bare shaft arrow/field point combo I shoot is tail high. Took it to the bow shop and they adjusted the D loop cause it was low and my timing was slightly off. Came home shot the arrows again and same thing all tail high. What is going on? Please help. 😩
Do you need a weighted insert if you’re shooting a 250g broad head?!?
Have just recently found your videos and am really enjoying them. I am thinking about following some of your advice. This video has me wondering, before any adjustments are made is there a particular rest that needs to be utilized?
Does that mean you will shoot a 275 gr broadhead or put heavier inserts in your arrow?
Hello looks like you guys some of you anyway shoot aluminum arrows is that correct if so what size? Thanks Dave
You understand heavier point weight reduces the spine?
Knock high/low can be more than a rest timing or rest movement.
You should always make sure the timing of your cams are set correctly, especially before moving the rest to correct a nock high or low result. You could end up chasing your tail all day.
I get that tinkering may "work" ( masking issues).
At a longer draw length, it's very common to get a nock low tear due to nock pinch from the extreme angle of the string at the d loop.
So tinkering isn't always the answer, do some research first or take it to someone that knows
Great info.
Horizontal follow the broadhead vertical go opposite of the broadhead, and re sight in. It is mentioned incorrectly in the video
Have you guys ever came across an Accu Rest compound bow? It shoots a 4" arrow where the fletchings are the blades? Curious on how to find the F.O.C and other specs....?
I have to ask this question out of 1000% ignorance. First I don't shoot a vertical bow, but crossbows, because of that I don't know much about using a vertical bow. My question is did changing the poundage affect anything related to drawing other ease? Something like anchor point etc?
Lowering the poundage would essentially stiffen the spine by taking some juice out of the power stroke of the bow if that helps
What do you guys film with and what FPS do you use to get these slow mo clips that you can actually see arrow flight?
Frames per second I mean…
thanks for sharing!
Most broadheads are 100 or 125 grs. I really like the broadheads I'm shooting but I'd like to have 200 grs, is there something to add to increase the weight ?
The most common thing is to add heavier inserts and then reinforced collars on the outside. If you are worried about foc, reduce weight on back end with lighter fletchings.
Jake slinging telephone poles. That’s wicked.
I got the ranch fairy special a few weeks ago, some 100-200 grain inserts from Ethics Archery and my 300 spine arrows are supposed to come Monday. Enough of the flappers and twizzlers.
I love this common sense blue collar mentality on tuning a bow.
Cant wait to see Jake smoke a 200" whitetail this October with that setup
On Texas public land?
Love It!!
Poundage and speed mean nothing.. Numbers are numbers some people get to focused on what someone else said works the best but everyone is different and every bow setup is different. Thanks for all the great videos guys.. May your arrows fly true and your broadheads always be sharp!!
RF has been too busy to make a video addressing the haters...but I'm sure it's coming...hang on to your hats, boys!! 🤣🤣🤣!!!
Now y’all need to be converted to the ezv sight!
Nope, RetinaLoc!
Nathan Mohler lol I could never bring myself to use a sight like that.
I'm liking my single pin too much. Next bow gets a Burris. Why? One less thing to lug around to the blind, and all my rifles already wear Burris.
Nope..... spot hogg fast Eddie xl!
Been waiting for this video since Ted got his arrows changed
I'm currently shooting a bear areana 30 3/4 and it's a 60 pound bow but it's shooting better at about 58lbs with a 30 inch draw and 475 to 500 grain 350 spine arrow. But have not started yet with my bare shaft tinkering
... So after that we shall see what is what then....lol
Dude, I wanna hang out with that guy!
See the only problem I have with it is your arrow takes forever to get there so of course your animal is going to move. They always move but with a fast arrow I’m blowing straight through. I guess you can talk about the majority maybe you have one flapper that hits a bone out of 100. But I’ll keep my rage twizler shooting 340ft per second
Better do that with the broadheads on as well.
Bowtech deadlock cam system will fix all your problems. Just move the cams left or right !!
Slow hit is better than a fast miss!
Lol that sounds like something Confucius said! True though