THANK YOU! After years of dealing with FORD's MISTAKE (so prevalent in rear passenger doors for several model years of Escape, there is NO QUESTION of faulty design and/or assembly), THEY SHOULD CORRECT FOR FREE, you have nailed a GREAT fix and saved me dealer expense, theft risks, AND visits to the shrink to cope with stress. Bless you, my friend! For YEARS I have left my car unlocked everywhere, at airports and shopping centers, KNOWING the alarm WILL go off if I did not. Now all is more secure. 2007 Ford Escape XLT here.
left it unlocked? well, too late for this to help i guess, but if the last button you push is the unlock button on the keyfob, the alarm does not arm itself. then you can just flick the driver door lock manually and at least it's all locked up. handy if leaving your car a long time and don't want your random BS car alarms driving people nuts.
Whaatttt???!!! Believe me, this video is on my Top 10 Admired-and-appreciated list FOREVER, but are you saying the following ? (if the wiring fix had not been done): 1. When at destination, after parking and getting out of car, LOCK CAR NORMALLY using key fob; 2. While still at car, UNLOCK, using one press of Lock symbol on key fob (only driver door will unlock); 3. Open driver door, and manually lock, and then close the door. That will do the trick??? WOW! I do wish I'd known that, too. THANK YOU, double!
it is as you stated, tho you don't have to open the door before u hit the button. this unarmed state persists thru multiple engine starts until u hit the lock button again. use at your own discretion, of course. your car won't make a peep during an actual break-in attempt.
Thanks Michael took me 5 min and did the paper cilp method dome light stays off like you said when door is opened. It was the neighbours car ,and was driving us nuts since the neighbour is deaf and can't hear the frikken thing going off. Saved him a grand.He is happy and so are we
Damn dude!!! I don’t even have this make or model but you help me fix my ajar light on my dash!!! THANK YOU SOOOOOOO MUCH!!! 7 years later, your video saved me!!!!!!
Just want to say this technique STILL holds true. Bought a low-mileage 2006 Escape HEV as a vehicle to dump miles on in early 2021. Alarm problem started occuring once temps started to warm. Read to slam rear passenger door and that should work. And that did work for a few months until the Rear Passenger Door Ajar signal started appearing on the dash. Alarm them started occuring a couple times a day. Took to Ford in July 2021 for the issue. They said rear passenger door latch was fine. They instead replaced rear gate latch and repaired rear passenger door harness ($550). Brought vehicle back home but a week later it started again and door ajar alarm came back up. Took back to Ford. Had it for a week. Couldn't find an issue. They stated alarm did not go off once while they had it. They said it looks like a previous owner installed a third-party alarm and they cannot touch it. They were convinced the third-party equipment was causing alarm to go off. I then took vehicle to an audio/securty shop and they disconnected third party alarm (which I now believe was an alarm override and not another alarm; it was just a switch with an LED under the steering wheel). That night, alarm went off again. After dealing with this for another month or so, I took it back to Ford in late September and told them to keep it until the alarm went off so they can properly diagnose. They had the car until late November and said it didn't go off once (to my absolute disbelief). I took the car back in my possession in frustration down another $200 just for them to look at it. I was ready to sell this vehicle to whoever would take it as the headache and embarrassment of the alarm constantly going off was becoming too much. Finally I found this method mentioned in a forum and gave it a shot. Rear Passenger Door Ajar light immediately shut off. No alarm in over a week when I was previously experiencing a few a day. Although I threw away nearly $800 having the dealer try to correct it, it was this 10-minute fix that solved the issue. Shame on Ford.
Woohoo! I'm one happy girl! Thrilled to be done with the random beeping and alarming that's been happening when the weather warms up for the past 2 years. This is literally a 5 cent fix, and the hardest part was figuring out how to unhook the green latch that holds the mechanism tightly together. Thank you so much for figuring this out. Clearly, Ford couldn't be bothered with recalling & fixing their own problem that affects thousands. SAD!
Thank you !! This worked. Mine was the back driver side door. It's been over a month. And the alarm hasn't gone off once. My wife drives this car. She said to tell you, she loves you.
+THEY DIE WE LIVE you can do any of the doors this way, but please note the OEM alarm system or some light will not function properly for any door you modify the wire on. There are always options to install after market shock sensor type alarms in the car if your worried about theft of your internal items within the car. Good luck
Wow finally got my 05 mariner fixed. Used the free forscan app to diagnose which door was it. It said right passenger door I then used a paper clip to jump out those two wire, and now no more beeping while i drive. Thank You,
I paid 30 dollars to get a laptop connector that works on ford cars, downloaded forscan for windows When I identified the problem door i followed the video, When using Forscan The gem module is the one to check for the door ajar problem
Damn....16 dumb assess out there. This worked great, thank you, thank you, thank you. I have went through hell with this hunk of junk car. This issue has plagued us for 2 1/2 years. Recently replaced the smart junction box/security for no reason. Turns out mine was the passenger rear door as well....CRAZY. Many thanks, your video allowed me to fix what several mechanics and Ford dealership could not figure out....hundreds of dollars wasted. I placed jumper on the back of the plug at the body, works great. Just a note for anyone that is having this issue, you can cut the wires and twist them together to achieve same function as jumper, just leave yourself enough wire near the connector in case you need to reconnect in the future.
You my friend are my HERO! I used picture wire as it was the only rigid wire I had available. So far my 2006 Mariner has been silence to my ears! Thanks again!
I love you man! This has been plaguing me for years. I have tried all kinds of "fixes". This worked great for me. I simply used a paper clip to jump it on the male side (did not separate the plug) and a small wire tie to hold the clip in place! Again...I love you man!!!!
Can you take a picture or explain how to do the wire thing - did you have to strip the wires or disconnect the two sides of the white plastic plugs first?
You are a life saver. I've been fiddling with this for a while. Event cutting the purple/blue wire at the latch end of the rear passenger door and directly grounding it to the door would make the door ajar function flicker on and off whenever slight movements adjusted the door. Bypassing the wire at the door gasket fixed the problem. I believe the wiring harness must have wiggled loose or something. Thanks!
I finally tried this tonight after having this problem on and off for several years. It worked! I followed the directions exactly (Except I stripped the wire insulation away a little and jumped a wire between the 2 wires he mentioned..black/white and pink/blue). Thank you so much for this video. Mine is a 2005 Ford Escape. And yes, it was the right rear door.
Same problem...... hot wired the connections like you did.... PERFECT!!!!... problem solved.........thanks for posting......Fuck I love you tube when it comes to fixing shit!!!!!
This fixed me for a 2006 Escape with a car alarm going off during the day. Same door, same wires. I crimped them together and the issue went away. No interior lights come on when I open the door, but I'm not annoying my neighbors anymore.
Same Problem Same Year and Model. (Mention its the SECOND row in the middle) at first it wasn't working. I was crossing over to a middle vacant pin hole. My mechanic charged me to replace the latch and sensor of the drivers door almost $400.oo & it was the wrong door sensor after all! 5 minute fix $0.00 THANK YOU!
Steps written out below. Hit Read More. Ford Escape 2006. Rear passenger door. Make sure you verify you are jumping the correct wires, so be sure to close all doors to make sure the dashboard indicator turns off after jumping and before reassembly. When testing, the dome light might be on a timer, and so it's best to use the front display door open signal to see if it's working. Step 1: Disconnect wire harness from frame. Small press tabs on top and bottom. Flat Screwdriver helps. Step 2: Don't bother removing the rubber boot, instead work from the back side of the harness. Look at the bottom portion of the wiring harness like a tic-tac-toe board. If the bottom right square has the black/white wire, then the blue/pink would be the center square. Step 3: Using a regular paperclip, jump the two ports and then close all doors to test it out and make sure you got it right. Note: the paperclip when properly installed should stay in place, if it's loose, repeat the step until it sits securely in place. Step 4: Hot glue the paperclip at both ports. Step 5: Wait for glue to dry and then test again. Step 6: Reassemble. Thank you so much for this great advice, Michael! Grateful to be done with that annoying beep!
Hi, Thank you so much for this information. I was able to use a 1/2 inch stable and shove it in the holes of the black/white wire and the adjacent pink/blue wire that is located in the middle of the next row of wires. After doing this, the door ajar indicator on my dashboard was no longer there and when I opened the rear passenger door the dome light no longer comes on (not an issue). Additionally all the other functions of the door such as remote locking, ect. still are intact. I have a 2006 Ford Escape and I was able to do this in about 10 minutes including time looking for a piece of metal that would do the trick. I will comment later to see if there are more intermittent alarms throughout the day, but I suspect there will not be.
I guess I'll have to snip those wires in ALL the doors, because I'm not sure which one it is! I've taken to pulling out all the dome lights, but have had my battery die once or twice overnight because of this. My 05 Mazda Tribute is almost identical to the Ford in the video! Thanks for posting.
Had the same exact problem, same door on a 2007 Mercury mariner ( ended up draining and killing my battery ) much much easier fix is to take the right rear door panel off and find the wire cluster leading to the door sensor and cut the black and white wire and the pink and blue wire and splice them together completing the circuit..... your power door locks will continue to work your power windows will continue to work your alarm system will continue to work for the 4 remaining doors just not the passenger rear door 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️ works great for me and was a much better fixed and spending a few hundred dollars on the news door lock module
i just had to do it on my 2005 escape,sit inside the car or even outside is fine as long as all ur windows are open, if inside activate the alarm then wait about 15 seconds and open the door if the alarm goes off repeat the process and do the same for the next door,if the alarm goes off ,repeat again,now lets say the 3rd time the alarm doesnt go off,now you just pinpointed the troublesome door.If u choose to do it outside the car set alarm and reach inside to open each door by the inside latch and repeat that process till no alarm triggers
This worked in my 05 Escape. removing the harness from the door was a huge pain; there is just 1 tab on the 05 as far as I can tell; press it down and pull the green pin back. From there, squeeze the green tabs in and the whole thing should come apart. I put the jumper in the 'door' side of the harness (female side) rather than the 'car' side (pins / male side) and it worked just fine. You're wiring the black/white to pink/blue spot.
I honestly don't know. I'm not really a car expert; just have some electronics experience. The driver's side might have some more wires because of disabling windows, child locks, etc but it's not too difficult to open up and check, especially if you're already dealing with this annoying issue.
This Work to perfection. My Alarm kept going off every 5 minutes saying "RIGHT DOOR AJAR" I did cut a copper wire like a phone wires and inserted in the Black and white wire and Pink and Turkish blue inserted in both wires and the door ajar went away. I had the right back passenger door open and click on my remote to close and locked all the doors. My alarm has not gone off at all. So please do the same instructions. You can do it from the back of the connector where the door is just take the black plastic that is covering it. Actually you can disconnected to make it easier to insert the copper wire.
thank you for figuring this out for all of us! there is another video by Daryl Turcot where he connects the wires closer to the handle. I did that, but this is pretty much the same. anyways, Thanks again!
I Pulled off the door panel ,then find the black/white wire & the pink /blue wire.Then find a spot on both wires that will be easy to take a piece of the coating off to expose the copper wire.Once i figured where i liked it i took a razor knife and exposed a spot on each wire,then i took a scrap piece of wire i had connected one end to the exposed black/white & the other to pink blue ,once i twisted it securely i taped the 2 spots with electrical tape and it works great now.
Thanks for sharing this - the last two summers the alarm randomly goes off in my Escape...usually as soon as the temperature goes higher than 80. It's been driving me nuts.
This video was frustrating for me because he never actually shows what he is doing. Explaining it, sure, and a lot of you seem to get it, but I wish he would have had someone else video while he demonstrated. Guess I will keep looking to see if someone else can show me what to do via an actual video. Sigh
@H RodriguezYou tweekin? chill out. 35 hours to fix a door sensor?He's f*d up. This free advice he's giving makes it seem more complicated than it. is.
make sure you identify the correct wires. it was wasy just watch the video and i used a jumper on the back of the connector and it has worked for months now. hardest part is determing which door is causing alarm to go off and then you can either jump the wires at the connection or xut the wires. i first thought it was my driver side front door, which i cut the wires and bypassed connector and door switch altogether. ..turns out it wasn't that door it was passenger rear just like this video. The biggest issue is that Ford knows there is a problem with these door latches and they have done nothing to help their customers. ...in fact i brought my car to local ford dealer and they charged me to tell me they couldnt figure it out which door was faulting but i could leave it with them all week but the bill might be 1500 dollars or more. So a mechanic friend of mine was sure that it was the control unit...which is very expensive and on national back order...i found one for 400 put it in and paid dealer to program and of course it was a bad door switch the entire time. Get yhe wiring diagram off line ..trace the wires and cut them or pin it out and save yourself a bunch of money and headaches. best of luck.
Going to do this on my 2005 Escape after work tonight same color, same door. I do not think my Escape is a POS it gets me to A to B and back to A everytime.
Just did this and the light now doesn't work. Waiting to see if the alarm randomly goes off but I have confidence it'll work. Sucks disabling the alarm on it but thank you for the help
update; placing the jumper wire did work, I drove the car for thee Months before selling it. I dont think the problem at the time was the door switch, I think the real issue was due to corroded electrical connectors at the wire connection where I placed the jumper. In any event always troubleshoot your parts before repacing. Its alot cheaper.
My left rear door I’ve been able to open from outside several times when all doors should have been locked. It’s like the actuator isn’t working or isn’t always locking. And my alarm has went off several times at various times while home for no known reason
I’m not so sure that the problem is corroded electrical connectors. Look how many ppl have had this problem from all the comments in this video and others! And Ford continues to do nothing or even worse, charges a ridiculous amount to look at it then say they can’t fix it. This should be a recall!
@michaelbragg7216 where does the paperclip go? in this video its not shown how he actually connected them. is it simply pulling the black/white wire out and putting it back in with one end of a paperclip, and then the same for the blue/pink wire? some of these wires are super tight getting them back in...
If you hold down the odometer reset button while starting the car you will then see diagnostics on the screen and as you push the button you will cycle through the codes until you get "door ajar - A,B,C,D,E, or F" and mine read C which means it was my rear driver side door.
How did you know door C was rear drivers? I'm having same problem and only the drivers door reads door A. I just get door C no matter which of the other doors are open. Been looking online for finding out which doors are which with no luck. Any help appreciated!!!!
Thank you, believe it or not 07' escape same door RightRear after weeks of troubleshooting. It was suspect. About 2 years ago had problems with the child lock same door.
None of my doors alarmed when locked in and tried to open the doors. So, I have no idea which door?? Do I have to do all the doors? I did the right rear as there was a previous record of it being done.. Might be driver door as it has to be opened with the key even if you unlock with remote. Could it be the drivers door?
So, it looks like it's been over a year since you posted this video - has it solved your problem for good? My Father's 2005 Escape has been doing it for a long time now and the only temporary solution we've found is to unplug the horn fuse so that, at least, when the alarm goes off, it won't make any noise. But now the car battery has been dying for no foreseeable reason and we're afraid the alarm (lights flashing) has been going off in the night and draining the battery. Any news?
Yes, the horn disconnection won't work because the lights flash and it will absolutely drain the battery. This video is literally the ONLY way to solve this problem permanently and surely. I have tried everything else.
Hi I’m trying to figure out how to do this but I don’t know much about cars and this has been going on for months now, and it’s the same door as yours! Can you give more detailed information
Going to give this a try. Had the random alarm problem for years. Now the interior lights stay on (for 15 minutes at least). What happens if you cut the wires in question outright but leave the others?
@@michaelbragg7216 can you let us know where to put the paperclip to fix this issue? do we need to pull the wires out or do we use the other side of the switch and place the paperclip there?
Great video explaining the fix BUT could have been even helpful to many by actually showing a closeup of the jumper wire installed on the other side (door side) of the connector. Nevertheless this certainly seems to be a 100% fix according to others. I wonder why it is mostly, but apparently not always, the right rear passenger door.
Cindy Alston Cindy I believe that they are micro switches located inside the lock actuator and you have to buy a new actuator to replace the defective unit. If you buy an aftermarket one like a Dorman you can get them much cheaper than if you buy the motorcraft part. The larger ford models have a replaceable switch which you can just unplug and twist to unlock. Personally I wish it had a simple plunger style switch in the pillar that is easily replaceable.
puffnstuff12 I just fixed my issue. It is easier to remove the door panel and unplug the switch. Than just connect a jumper wire from the black and white wire to the one directly to the left of it. I wasn't sure which of the 3 wires to jump to, so I just tried each one until I found the correct wire. The switch is on there pretty good, so you need to pry it off with a screwdriver (carefully).
Seemed to work for me but it's only day one. The dome light doesn't come on neither does the door chime when I open it now so I think its tricked into thinking its always closed. I've never heard of an electrical jump before but the youtube video that came on after this one was a guy diagnosing this same issue and he was doing a jump. There's metal where the wires go into the connector so on the backside of the female part of the connection I stuck a small copper wire in next to the black/white & pink/blue wires.
I have a ford escape 2002 my battery was fully dead my alarm didnt go off yesterday so the disable everything now the radio off the dash lights on hazor lights on smh all damn bad what could be the problem
I recently took my escape in for inspection and asked them to see what's causing the right rear door ajar to go off all the time. They told me it's not in the door but it's actually the back hatch. But about $600 to fix. Idk.
This is the Escape "Limited" with this functionality. Supposed to be a luxury feature, but, with this door problem it's just an annoyance. My low-fuel notification is on this dashboard rather than a light, as are all of my diagnostics. If I try to parse through my diagnostic screens and the door thinks it's open, it will say "Please Close Door". Really annoying when you want to see how many miles you have to empty!! Looking forward to trying out this jumper tonight.
canlib most of that was research. seems everyone else paid thousands to replace parts, I did it the first time and right with no cost. You must of watched and needed this video cause you couldn’t figure it out.
Yes, when someone tries to jump in at a set of Lights or Stop Sign and get CAR JACKED, BEST TO FIX CAR RIGHT AND NOT HALF FAST FIX IT OR DON'T BOTHER AT ALL OR CRY BECAUSE YOUR TRUCK BURNS TO THE GROUND AND INSURANCE COMPANIES WON'T COVER IT. I appreciate when somebody does work the correct way on how to fix a problem and solve a problem so therefore this problem is not fixed nor solved just fixed in a way to make the owner happy, spend the money and do it the correct way and save money you can go to a junkyard and buy the switch for a fraction of the cost or even check rockauto.com I buy pots from them and they are very reasonable on part but I also check other places and if too expensive then I'll go to the junkyard and get parts for under $20 and for $2 they'll give me a warranty if it doesn't work so that way there I didn't waste 20 bucks and I could use a $20 somewhere else they won't give me $20 back but I can use it to buy something else and there's always a lot of stuff in a junkyard that you can buy with $20 like a new set of floor mats that's Factory that they'll sell $20 compared to $100, maybe balance all four of your tires if you need it or even buy a spare tire on a rim that matches your vehicle for $30 come on now being a backyard mechanic is about being a backyard mechanic and showing people how to do a job the right way and not the wrong way anybody can have fast something I would have just cut the wire if that's the case and said fuck it cut the wires and put wire nuts on end to shut off or just pull the fuse, I get a beep while driving and it happens so fast, I haven't caught it for lights on dash if door AJAR or REAR LIFTGATE AJAR now. Mt son thought he seen battery light circle light up but we didn't know until we stopped at home I shut it off and turn the key on and then scene it's a battery light, thats once put of 75 beeps on sitting or driving in the last 2 week's, now I'm thinking its a BATTERY, off to PARTS STORE and have them load test the BATTERY and check the Alternator even though my charging system is fine by the gauge and when I run a check on Diagnostics of my 2003 Ford Explorer and it tells me 75% oil life left charging system okay windshield washer fluid okay and 1 more i believe but not sure on it because im not ysusinging it daily, I check it about every 2 week's or at gas station fill up or if I'm going somewhere far, but i have mechanical backgrounds so I understand vehicle's and don't trust all computer's, otherwise i would of replaced a cluster not once but TWICE, plug wasn't plugged in all the way, the person i bought it from had automatic start put in and the clip broke on the plug to hold plug into cluster, that cluster cost over $500, well my friend fixed it once and then it happened again, so i fixed it and took and old clip off a junk car and super glued a piece on hoping that after it dried, I could push in and hold it from popping out again, so far so good and been 3 year's, plus I put electrical tape to help hold it in place for added security. On a scale 1 being hard to fix and 10 being easy to fix if you have some ability to work on cars then UA-cam it and it will show you how to pop the radio cover off to take your cluster out and it's that easy with a few screws, i give it and 7 for easy on fixing it, thats providing you can take stuff apart and put back together now, if your affraid, then don't bother trying it.
Just so you know, many people did fix this "the right way" and it didn't work. People replaced the latches on every door and the hood sensors and still had random alarms going off, plus their car wouldn't start on the models that go into lock mode when it thinks it's being broken into to due to the door ajar and they won't even start with the original chip key. People also got diagnostics done with the actual Ford computer for $700 and it didn't work. People also had the car computers, chip keys, and sensors replaced for thousands of dollars with no results, just because Ford told them it was a problem with the chip key being sensed when the door ajar is on, so the car thinks it's an intruder entering the car. I personally have had my car in the shop 6 times for this problem. They couldn't fix it, or even get close to finding the problem. I figured it out myself. If the professionals and even Ford can't fix it, what's wrong with doing a no cost, 15 minute fix? Especially if it enables you to sleep at night and ACTUALLY use your car to get to work when you need to (esp for those models which wont let you start your own car when the alarm is going off). Professionals and the company that made the car can't even diagnose or fix the damn car. So no kidding people will do it themselves to get the value out of the car they paid thousands for in the first place. If someone breaks in the car through the back right door only and doesn't open ANY other door so the alarm doesn't go off, that would be a damn HUGE coincidence. I would say that is much less likely to happen and that the value of being able to use your own car outweighs that minuscule, unlikely risk, wouldn't you agree?
My 2006 Escape hybrid driving me nuts with the rear passenger door open alarm. All these videos I check out seem to be the same damn door. Thanks for the tip. Now if only someone would explain what kind of engineer would design headlight switches that when they fail they go into high beam mode. I have to drive at nights one hand driving while the other holds the stupid switch in just the right spot not to high beam other drivers. You have to remove the steering wheel to get the replacement assembly in when a "U" shape circuit board instead of the ring would have sufficed. The ring requires the removal of the steering wheel, I have the part, but messing with the airbag worries the expletive out of me, even with the battery disconnected.
THANK YOU! After years of dealing with FORD's MISTAKE (so prevalent in rear passenger doors for several model years of Escape, there is NO QUESTION of faulty design and/or assembly), THEY SHOULD CORRECT FOR FREE, you have nailed a GREAT fix and saved me dealer expense, theft risks, AND visits to the shrink to cope with stress. Bless you, my friend! For YEARS I have left my car unlocked everywhere, at airports and shopping centers, KNOWING the alarm WILL go off if I did not. Now all is more secure. 2007 Ford Escape XLT here.
left it unlocked? well, too late for this to help i guess, but if the last button you push is the unlock button on the keyfob, the alarm does not arm itself. then you can just flick the driver door lock manually and at least it's all locked up. handy if leaving your car a long time and don't want your random BS car alarms driving people nuts.
Whaatttt???!!! Believe me, this video is on my Top 10 Admired-and-appreciated list FOREVER, but are you saying the following ? (if the wiring fix had not been done):
1. When at destination, after parking and getting out of car, LOCK CAR NORMALLY using key fob;
2. While still at car, UNLOCK, using one press of Lock symbol on key fob (only driver door will unlock);
3. Open driver door, and manually lock, and then close the door.
That will do the trick??? WOW! I do wish I'd known that, too. THANK YOU, double!
it is as you stated, tho you don't have to open the door before u hit the button. this unarmed state persists thru multiple engine starts until u hit the lock button again. use at your own discretion, of course. your car won't make a peep during an actual break-in attempt.
Jason - I GOTTA ASK - How on Earth did you deduce this or otherwise find out? Genius! Thanks again!
I'm going through this problem right now have been f****** years it sucks.. I'm ready to cut the f****** horn out
Michael Bragg, I know you posted this 10 years ago, but you should know that you are still making the world a better place. It worked!!!!
Thanks Michael took me 5 min and did the paper cilp method dome light stays off like you said when door is opened. It was the neighbours car ,and was driving us nuts since the neighbour is deaf and can't hear the frikken thing going off. Saved him a grand.He is happy and so are we
where did u place the paperclip? is it on the side in this video or on the other side?
Damn dude!!! I don’t even have this make or model but you help me fix my ajar light on my dash!!! THANK YOU SOOOOOOO MUCH!!! 7 years later, your video saved me!!!!!!
Just want to say this technique STILL holds true. Bought a low-mileage 2006 Escape HEV as a vehicle to dump miles on in early 2021. Alarm problem started occuring once temps started to warm. Read to slam rear passenger door and that should work. And that did work for a few months until the Rear Passenger Door Ajar signal started appearing on the dash. Alarm them started occuring a couple times a day. Took to Ford in July 2021 for the issue. They said rear passenger door latch was fine. They instead replaced rear gate latch and repaired rear passenger door harness ($550). Brought vehicle back home but a week later it started again and door ajar alarm came back up. Took back to Ford. Had it for a week. Couldn't find an issue. They stated alarm did not go off once while they had it. They said it looks like a previous owner installed a third-party alarm and they cannot touch it. They were convinced the third-party equipment was causing alarm to go off. I then took vehicle to an audio/securty shop and they disconnected third party alarm (which I now believe was an alarm override and not another alarm; it was just a switch with an LED under the steering wheel). That night, alarm went off again. After dealing with this for another month or so, I took it back to Ford in late September and told them to keep it until the alarm went off so they can properly diagnose. They had the car until late November and said it didn't go off once (to my absolute disbelief). I took the car back in my possession in frustration down another $200 just for them to look at it. I was ready to sell this vehicle to whoever would take it as the headache and embarrassment of the alarm constantly going off was becoming too much. Finally I found this method mentioned in a forum and gave it a shot. Rear Passenger Door Ajar light immediately shut off. No alarm in over a week when I was previously experiencing a few a day. Although I threw away nearly $800 having the dealer try to correct it, it was this 10-minute fix that solved the issue. Shame on Ford.
That’s why they’re called “stealerships”!
Woohoo! I'm one happy girl! Thrilled to be done with the random beeping and alarming that's been happening when the weather warms up for the past 2 years. This is literally a 5 cent fix, and the hardest part was figuring out how to unhook the green latch that holds the mechanism tightly together. Thank you so much for figuring this out. Clearly, Ford couldn't be bothered with recalling & fixing their own problem that affects thousands. SAD!
How were you able to unhook the green latch? I've tried using a screwdriver to pry it apart, but nothing seems to work.
Please say how to unlatch the connectors
Thank you !! This worked. Mine was the back driver side door. It's been over a month. And the alarm hasn't gone off once. My wife drives this car. She said to tell you, she loves you.
With your info I was able to fix my 05 escape with a 22 gauge quick splice from orilys in about 15min. Thanks for doing the wire detective work man!
+Paul Gariepy so you just used a quick splice to interconnect the black white wire to the pink and blue one?
+THEY DIE WE LIVE yep worked like a charm
cool can i do the driver rear door as well if the alarm still comes on random?
+THEY DIE WE LIVE you can do any of the doors this way, but please note the OEM alarm system or some light will not function properly for any door you modify the wire on. There are always options to install after market shock sensor type alarms in the car if your worried about theft of your internal items within the car. Good luck
Paul what did u do
Worked like a charm!!! Had the same problem with the same door on a 2007 Escape... Thanks for the video!!!
Thank you. I had the exact same issue with the same door. You saved me a couple hundred dollars and a lot of time.
Wow finally got my 05 mariner fixed. Used the free forscan app to diagnose which door was it. It said right passenger door I then used a paper clip to jump out those two wire, and now no more beeping while i drive. Thank You,
I paid 30 dollars to get a laptop connector that works on ford cars, downloaded forscan for windows When I identified the problem door i followed the video, When using Forscan The gem module is the one to check for the door ajar problem
Please say how you disconnect the two white connector plugs
Just did this fix, on the rear right door, of course. Thanks for all the detail and wire info. Worked immediately!
Damn....16 dumb assess out there. This worked great, thank you, thank you, thank you. I have went through hell with this hunk of junk car. This issue has plagued us for 2 1/2 years. Recently replaced the smart junction box/security for no reason. Turns out mine was the passenger rear door as well....CRAZY. Many thanks, your video allowed me to fix what several mechanics and Ford dealership could not figure out....hundreds of dollars wasted. I placed jumper on the back of the plug at the body, works great. Just a note for anyone that is having this issue, you can cut the wires and twist them together to achieve same function as jumper, just leave yourself enough wire near the connector in case you need to reconnect in the future.
You my friend are my HERO! I used picture wire as it was the only rigid wire I had available. So far my 2006 Mariner has been silence to my ears! Thanks again!
I love you man! This has been plaguing me for years. I have tried all kinds of "fixes". This worked great for me. I simply used a paper clip to jump it on the male side (did not separate the plug) and a small wire tie to hold the clip in place! Again...I love you man!!!!
Can you take a picture or explain how to do the wire thing - did you have to strip the wires or disconnect the two sides of the white plastic plugs first?
You are a life saver. I've been fiddling with this for a while. Event cutting the purple/blue wire at the latch end of the rear passenger door and directly grounding it to the door would make the door ajar function flicker on and off whenever slight movements adjusted the door. Bypassing the wire at the door gasket fixed the problem. I believe the wiring harness must have wiggled loose or something. Thanks!
I have the exact same issure with the right rear door... Thanks for the fix!
I finally tried this tonight after having this problem on and off for several years. It worked! I followed the directions exactly (Except I stripped the wire insulation away a little and jumped a wire between the 2 wires he mentioned..black/white and pink/blue). Thank you so much for this video. Mine is a 2005 Ford Escape. And yes, it was the right rear door.
Same problem...... hot wired the connections like you did.... PERFECT!!!!... problem solved.........thanks for posting......Fuck I love you tube when it comes to fixing shit!!!!!
This fixed me for a 2006 Escape with a car alarm going off during the day. Same door, same wires. I crimped them together and the issue went away. No interior lights come on when I open the door, but I'm not annoying my neighbors anymore.
This was very helpful as I'm having the exact same issue with my 2006 Escape
Same Problem Same Year and Model. (Mention its the SECOND row in the middle) at first it wasn't working. I was crossing over to a middle vacant pin hole. My mechanic charged me to replace the latch and sensor of the drivers door almost $400.oo & it was the wrong door sensor after all! 5 minute fix $0.00 THANK YOU!
Steps written out below. Hit Read More.
Ford Escape 2006. Rear passenger door. Make sure you verify you are jumping the correct wires, so be sure to close all doors to make sure the dashboard indicator turns off after jumping and before reassembly. When testing, the dome light might be on a timer, and so it's best to use the front display door open signal to see if it's working.
Step 1: Disconnect wire harness from frame. Small press tabs on top and bottom. Flat Screwdriver helps.
Step 2: Don't bother removing the rubber boot, instead work from the back side of the harness. Look at the bottom portion of the wiring harness like a tic-tac-toe board. If the bottom right square has the black/white wire, then the blue/pink would be the center square.
Step 3: Using a regular paperclip, jump the two ports and then close all doors to test it out and make sure you got it right. Note: the paperclip when properly installed should stay in place, if it's loose, repeat the step until it sits securely in place.
Step 4: Hot glue the paperclip at both ports.
Step 5: Wait for glue to dry and then test again.
Step 6: Reassemble.
Thank you so much for this great advice, Michael! Grateful to be done with that annoying beep!
Thanks bud! I'm not the most car savvy so this really helped. The
Hi,
Thank you so much for this information. I was able to use a 1/2 inch stable and shove it in the holes of the black/white wire and the adjacent pink/blue wire that is located in the middle of the next row of wires. After doing this, the door ajar indicator on my dashboard was no longer there and when I opened the rear passenger door the dome light no longer comes on (not an issue). Additionally all the other functions of the door such as remote locking, ect. still are intact. I have a 2006 Ford Escape and I was able to do this in about 10 minutes including time looking for a piece of metal that would do the trick. I will comment later to see if there are more intermittent alarms throughout the day, but I suspect there will not be.
I'll be jumping mine out soon, same issue. Thanks for the video.
I guess I'll have to snip those wires in ALL the doors, because I'm not sure which one it is! I've taken to pulling out all the dome lights, but have had my battery die once or twice overnight because of this.
My 05 Mazda Tribute is almost identical to the Ford in the video!
Thanks for posting.
Paperclipped the black/white and pink/blue wires. Works great. 05 Mariner. Right rear door.
Andrew Wilford this worked for me too. 2007 ford escape same door too
I did it too. there's two pink/blue wires. the first one I tried shocked the shut out of me.
he didn't show how to do it. where do you put the paperclip?
I just had to push my paperclip back in. It wiggled loose. Easy fix every 2 years.
Had the same exact problem, same door on a 2007 Mercury mariner ( ended up draining and killing my battery ) much much easier fix is to take the right rear door panel off and find the wire cluster leading to the door sensor and cut the black and white wire and the pink and blue wire and splice them together completing the circuit..... your power door locks will continue to work your power windows will continue to work your alarm system will continue to work for the 4 remaining doors just not the passenger rear door 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️ works great for me and was a much better fixed and spending a few hundred dollars on the news door lock module
Thank you in advance, have had issues with the door sensors going off willy nilly for years now, will have husband try this.
Best way to diagnose which door it is? My 2007 doesn’t specify which door it is when the door ajar warning is on.
i just had to do it on my 2005 escape,sit inside the car or even outside is fine as long as all ur windows are open, if inside activate the alarm then wait about 15 seconds and open the door if the alarm goes off repeat the process and do the same for the next door,if the alarm goes off ,repeat again,now lets say the 3rd time the alarm doesnt go off,now you just pinpointed the troublesome door.If u choose to do it outside the car set alarm and reach inside to open each door by the inside latch and repeat that process till no alarm triggers
@@frankie072 does the door ajar light have to be on when you are doing this? Because mine only comes on when you least expect it smh
This worked in my 05 Escape. removing the harness from the door was a huge pain; there is just 1 tab on the 05 as far as I can tell; press it down and pull the green pin back. From there, squeeze the green tabs in and the whole thing should come apart. I put the jumper in the 'door' side of the harness (female side) rather than the 'car' side (pins / male side) and it worked just fine. You're wiring the black/white to pink/blue spot.
Are you still experiencing the issue now, 2 months later? I have an 05 as well and desperately want a solution. DIY if possible.
+Nathan Hood no, this fix immediately solved it and it hasn't been a problem since!
+hok thanks for replying back!! Good to hear, I'm going to try it out now thank you very much!
+hok can i do the same for the driver side rear door?
I honestly don't know. I'm not really a car expert; just have some electronics experience. The driver's side might have some more wires because of disabling windows, child locks, etc but it's not too difficult to open up and check, especially if you're already dealing with this annoying issue.
This Work to perfection. My Alarm kept going off every 5 minutes saying "RIGHT DOOR AJAR" I did cut a copper wire like a phone wires and inserted in the Black and white wire and Pink and Turkish blue inserted in both wires and the door ajar went away. I had the right back passenger door open and click on my remote to close and locked all the doors. My alarm has not gone off at all. So please do the same instructions. You can do it from the back of the connector where the door is just take the black plastic that is covering it. Actually you can disconnected to make it easier to insert the copper wire.
thank you for figuring this out for all of us! there is another video by Daryl Turcot where he connects the wires closer to the handle. I did that, but this is pretty much the same. anyways, Thanks again!
You rock. Saved me a lot of time and money. Thank you.
Hey thanks, verifies my assumption. I just couldn't get the connector apart. jumped black,/white to pink/blue, everythings cool.
I Pulled off the door panel ,then find the black/white wire & the pink /blue wire.Then find a spot on both wires that will be easy to take a piece of the coating off to expose the copper wire.Once i figured where i liked it i took a razor knife and exposed a spot on each wire,then i took a scrap piece of wire i had connected one end to the exposed black/white & the other to pink blue ,once i twisted it securely i taped the 2 spots with electrical tape and it works great now.
Thanks for sharing this - the last two summers the alarm randomly goes off in my Escape...usually as soon as the temperature goes higher than 80. It's been driving me nuts.
Susan Lyn I have the same problem. Alarm only goes off in the summer. Were you able to fix yours? If yes, then how? Thanks.
This video was frustrating for me because he never actually shows what he is doing. Explaining it, sure, and a lot of you seem to get it, but I wish he would have had someone else video while he demonstrated. Guess I will keep looking to see if someone else can show me what to do via an actual video. Sigh
@H RodriguezYou tweekin? chill out. 35 hours to fix a door sensor?He's f*d up. This free advice he's giving makes it seem more complicated than it. is.
Thank you for this video. Worked great for my Ford!
make sure you identify the correct wires. it was wasy just watch the video and i used a jumper on the back of the connector and it has worked for months now. hardest part is determing which door is causing alarm to go off and then you can either jump the wires at the connection or xut the wires. i first thought it was my driver side front door, which i cut the wires and bypassed connector and door switch altogether. ..turns out it wasn't that door it was passenger rear just like this video. The biggest issue is that Ford knows there is a problem with these door latches and they have done nothing to help their customers. ...in fact i brought my car to local ford dealer and they charged me to tell me they couldnt figure it out which door was faulting but i could leave it with them all week but the bill might be 1500 dollars or more. So a mechanic friend of mine was sure that it was the control unit...which is very expensive and on national back order...i found one for 400 put it in and paid dealer to program and of course it was a bad door switch the entire time. Get yhe wiring diagram off line ..trace the wires and cut them or pin it out and save yourself a bunch of money and headaches. best of luck.
Would love to see exactly how you rigged the sensor when you were talking about minute 0:02.50-0:03.30.
Agreed.
A paper clip worked perfect. Thank you
Going to do this on my 2005 Escape after work tonight same color, same door. I do not think my Escape is a POS it gets me to A to B and back to A everytime.
Just did this and the light now doesn't work. Waiting to see if the alarm randomly goes off but I have confidence it'll work. Sucks disabling the alarm on it but thank you for the help
I had the same issue with my 2006 escape, it turn out to be my hood ajar switch, $20 from RockAuto
update; placing the jumper wire did work, I drove the car for thee Months before selling it. I dont think the problem at the time was the door switch, I think the real issue was due to corroded electrical connectors at the wire connection where I placed the jumper. In any event always troubleshoot your parts before repacing. Its alot cheaper.
My left rear door I’ve been able to open from outside several times when all doors should have been locked. It’s like the actuator isn’t working or isn’t always locking. And my alarm has went off several times at various times while home for no known reason
I’m not so sure that the problem is corroded electrical connectors. Look how many ppl have had this problem from all the comments in this video and others! And Ford continues to do nothing or even worse, charges a ridiculous amount to look at it then say they can’t fix it. This should be a recall!
@michaelbragg7216 where does the paperclip go? in this video its not shown how he actually connected them. is it simply pulling the black/white wire out and putting it back in with one end of a paperclip, and then the same for the blue/pink wire? some of these wires are super tight getting them back in...
If you hold down the odometer reset button while starting the car you will then see diagnostics on the screen and as you push the button you will cycle through the codes until you get "door ajar - A,B,C,D,E, or F" and mine read C which means it was my rear driver side door.
How did you know door C was rear drivers? I'm having same problem and only the drivers door reads door A. I just get door C no matter which of the other doors are open. Been looking online for finding out which doors are which with no luck. Any help appreciated!!!!
Thank you, believe it or not 07' escape same door RightRear after weeks of troubleshooting. It was suspect. About 2 years ago had problems with the child lock same door.
worked great. thanks, that goofy green locking pin, can you say over engineered.
So, if it's the front door, do the same thing to stop the digging noise? So frustrating! It's my daughter's 2005 front passenger door - won't shut up.
Thank you for all those times i have had to push the set button
Same issues with my 05 Escape with the rear passenger door. Alarm will trigger after 2am most nights.
None of my doors alarmed when locked in and tried to open the doors. So, I have no idea which door?? Do I have to do all the doors? I did the right rear as there was a previous record of it being done.. Might be driver door as it has to be opened with the key even if you unlock with remote. Could it be the drivers door?
Try putting the alarm in valet mode by cycling the key three times. To turn it back on cycle it three times. The alarm does not work in valet mode.
You are the man!
do you have to disconnect the battery b4 doing this
So, it looks like it's been over a year since you posted this video - has it solved your problem for good?
My Father's 2005 Escape has been doing it for a long time now and the only temporary solution we've found is to unplug the horn fuse so that, at least, when the alarm goes off, it won't make any noise. But now the car battery has been dying for no foreseeable reason and we're afraid the alarm (lights flashing) has been going off in the night and draining the battery.
Any news?
Mike Wood it did fix the problem
Yes, the horn disconnection won't work because the lights flash and it will absolutely drain the battery.
This video is literally the ONLY way to solve this problem permanently and surely. I have tried everything else.
Hi I’m trying to figure out how to do this but I don’t know much about cars and this has been going on for months now, and it’s the same door as yours! Can you give more detailed information
If your in and around the OKC area I can fix it in minutes.
Going to give this a try. Had the random alarm problem for years. Now the interior lights stay on (for 15 minutes at least). What happens if you cut the wires in question outright but leave the others?
Wiglaf67 cannot cut the wires.
@@michaelbragg7216 can you let us know where to put the paperclip to fix this issue? do we need to pull the wires out or do we use the other side of the switch and place the paperclip there?
Great video explaining the fix BUT could have been even helpful to many by actually showing a closeup of the jumper wire installed on the other side (door side) of the connector.
Nevertheless this certainly seems to be a 100% fix according to others. I wonder why it is mostly, but apparently not always, the right rear passenger door.
It would be nice to see exactly WHERE these sensors are on the doors.
Cindy Alston Cindy I believe that they are micro switches located inside the lock actuator and you have to buy a new actuator to replace the defective unit. If you buy an aftermarket one like a Dorman you can get them much cheaper than if you buy the motorcraft part. The larger ford models have a replaceable switch which you can just unplug and twist to unlock. Personally I wish it had a simple plunger style switch in the pillar that is easily replaceable.
puffnstuff12 I just fixed my issue. It is easier to remove the door panel and unplug the switch. Than just connect a jumper wire from the black and white wire to the one directly to the left of it. I wasn't sure which of the 3 wires to jump to, so I just tried each one until I found the correct wire. The switch is on there pretty good, so you need to pry it off with a screwdriver (carefully).
Hans Halt When you were jumping the wires how did you know which one was the correct wire?
Ashley Erikson I just tried each one until the door ajar light went off.
I tried using a paper clip to jump the ground with the center wire and it didn't work for me. The open door is still showing on the door ajar warning.
Seemed to work for me but it's only day one. The dome light doesn't come on neither does the door chime when I open it now so I think its tricked into thinking its always closed. I've never heard of an electrical jump before but the youtube video that came on after this one was a guy diagnosing this same issue and he was doing a jump. There's metal where the wires go into the connector so on the backside of the female part of the connection I stuck a small copper wire in next to the black/white & pink/blue wires.
Did this to mines works perfect 05 escape still goin 226,120 miles
How to disconnect it from the fuse compartment? Mine is very old, not I. interest of thieves.
I have a ford escape 2002
my battery was fully dead my alarm didnt go off yesterday so the disable everything now the radio off the dash lights on hazor lights on smh all damn bad what could be the problem
This is day two for me with the WD-40 with silicone spray and not a peek from my dome lights or alarm
Thank you Sir!
what is causing the concern. bad wiring or sensor?
Zach Hollingsworth bad design by ford
I recently took my escape in for inspection and asked them to see what's causing the right rear door ajar to go off all the time. They told me it's not in the door but it's actually the back hatch. But about $600 to fix. Idk.
My 2005 says door ajar when window is down.
by the way mine was a 2005 escape, and the message on the dash told me which door was the problem.
I have a 2005 Escape and it doesn't tell me which door is open. It is just a red icon with two doors showing open.
i guess it depends on your options package
This is the Escape "Limited" with this functionality. Supposed to be a luxury feature, but, with this door problem it's just an annoyance. My low-fuel notification is on this dashboard rather than a light, as are all of my diagnostics. If I try to parse through my diagnostic screens and the door thinks it's open, it will say "Please Close Door". Really annoying when you want to see how many miles you have to empty!! Looking forward to trying out this jumper tonight.
The sad part is..so many people have so many problems with these vehicles. This should not be happening. It doesn't happen on Toyota, Honda, Kia...
hope this help me cause this shit is driving me crazy!!!!
would someone be able to explain this in a little more depth for me?
All ya had to do was access your alarm brain, take a screwdriver and turn down the sensitivity. LoL 😂
P.s. it’s under the steering wheel panel 😉
Put paper clip on the left passenger door
I don't understand why UA-cam sucks, but I went share and copy link and it tells my buddy this video doesn't exist
35 hrs to fix a door sensor? He's taking way too much time and making it seem way more complicated than it is.
canlib most of that was research. seems everyone else paid thousands to replace parts, I did it the first time and right with no cost. You must of watched and needed this video cause you couldn’t figure it out.
I need the color!!
Mine goes off between q:00 am and 3:30 am…. My neighbors want to kill me
Yes, when someone tries to jump in at a set of Lights or Stop Sign and get CAR JACKED, BEST TO FIX CAR RIGHT AND NOT HALF FAST FIX IT OR DON'T BOTHER AT ALL OR CRY BECAUSE YOUR TRUCK BURNS TO THE GROUND AND INSURANCE COMPANIES WON'T COVER IT. I appreciate when somebody does work the correct way on how to fix a problem and solve a problem so therefore this problem is not fixed nor solved just fixed in a way to make the owner happy, spend the money and do it the correct way and save money you can go to a junkyard and buy the switch for a fraction of the cost or even check rockauto.com I buy pots from them and they are very reasonable on part but I also check other places and if too expensive then I'll go to the junkyard and get parts for under $20 and for $2 they'll give me a warranty if it doesn't work so that way there I didn't waste 20 bucks and I could use a $20 somewhere else they won't give me $20 back but I can use it to buy something else and there's always a lot of stuff in a junkyard that you can buy with $20 like a new set of floor mats that's Factory that they'll sell $20 compared to $100, maybe balance all four of your tires if you need it or even buy a spare tire on a rim that matches your vehicle for $30 come on now being a backyard mechanic is about being a backyard mechanic and showing people how to do a job the right way and not the wrong way anybody can have fast something I would have just cut the wire if that's the case and said fuck it cut the wires and put wire nuts on end to shut off or just pull the fuse, I get a beep while driving and it happens so fast, I haven't caught it for lights on dash if door AJAR or REAR LIFTGATE AJAR now. Mt son thought he seen battery light circle light up but we didn't know until we stopped at home I shut it off and turn the key on and then scene it's a battery light, thats once put of 75 beeps on sitting or driving in the last 2 week's, now I'm thinking its a BATTERY, off to PARTS STORE and have them load test the BATTERY and check the Alternator even though my charging system is fine by the gauge and when I run a check on Diagnostics of my 2003 Ford Explorer and it tells me 75% oil life left charging system okay windshield washer fluid okay and 1 more i believe but not sure on it because im not ysusinging it daily, I check it about every 2 week's or at gas station fill up or if I'm going somewhere far, but i have mechanical backgrounds so I understand vehicle's and don't trust all computer's, otherwise i would of replaced a cluster not once but TWICE, plug wasn't plugged in all the way, the person i bought it from had automatic start put in and the clip broke on the plug to hold plug into cluster, that cluster cost over $500, well my friend fixed it once and then it happened again, so i fixed it and took and old clip off a junk car and super glued a piece on hoping that after it dried, I could push in and hold it from popping out again, so far so good and been 3 year's, plus I put electrical tape to help hold it in place for added security. On a scale 1 being hard to fix and 10 being easy to fix if you have some ability to work on cars then UA-cam it and it will show you how to pop the radio cover off to take your cluster out and it's that easy with a few screws, i give it and 7 for easy on fixing it, thats providing you can take stuff apart and put back together now, if your affraid, then don't bother trying it.
Just so you know, many people did fix this "the right way" and it didn't work. People replaced the latches on every door and the hood sensors and still had random alarms going off, plus their car wouldn't start on the models that go into lock mode when it thinks it's being broken into to due to the door ajar and they won't even start with the original chip key.
People also got diagnostics done with the actual Ford computer for $700 and it didn't work. People also had the car computers, chip keys, and sensors replaced for thousands of dollars with no results, just because Ford told them it was a problem with the chip key being sensed when the door ajar is on, so the car thinks it's an intruder entering the car.
I personally have had my car in the shop 6 times for this problem. They couldn't fix it, or even get close to finding the problem. I figured it out myself.
If the professionals and even Ford can't fix it, what's wrong with doing a no cost, 15 minute fix? Especially if it enables you to sleep at night and ACTUALLY use your car to get to work when you need to (esp for those models which wont let you start your own car when the alarm is going off).
Professionals and the company that made the car can't even diagnose or fix the damn car. So no kidding people will do it themselves to get the value out of the car they paid thousands for in the first place.
If someone breaks in the car through the back right door only and doesn't open ANY other door so the alarm doesn't go off, that would be a damn HUGE coincidence. I would say that is much less likely to happen and that the value of being able to use your own car outweighs that minuscule, unlikely risk, wouldn't you agree?
i've got the same damn problem with my 2007 Ford Escape, my solution is to never buy American made again.
Such a piece of shit first car i got hate my life
My 2006 Escape hybrid driving me nuts with the rear passenger door open alarm. All these videos I check out seem to be the same damn door. Thanks for the tip. Now if only someone would explain what kind of engineer would design headlight switches that when they fail they go into high beam mode. I have to drive at nights one hand driving while the other holds the stupid switch in just the right spot not to high beam other drivers. You have to remove the steering wheel to get the replacement assembly in when a "U" shape circuit board instead of the ring would have sufficed. The ring requires the removal of the steering wheel, I have the part, but messing with the airbag worries the expletive out of me, even with the battery disconnected.