hi. after watched your video. i changed by myselft the front breaks pad and the rotors. 2 screws stuck on the rotor(left side) very rusty. the head was broken then need to drill it. spent 2 hours to remove those 2 screws. at the end all works fine. save alot of money. this is my first time changing breaks pad and it run very smooth and silence no noise anymore. thank you .
You can buy an impact driver to get those screws out. There a pain in the butt. You don’t need to put them back in. They put them in to keep rotors from falling off on assembly line.
@@What_Fred_Said Mine were rusted in so badly that not even an impact and loads of penetrant would remove them. I just ended up using a Dremel with a cutting wheel to cut the screw heads (and rotors, unavoidable but who cares) until they broke.
You just saved me at least $300. I bought a complete front brake kit from amazon for $50 and did everything in my driveway in under an hour. First time working on brakes too.
Your whole series are the highest level professional quality training videos! They are down to the point, informative, and short! Great contribution to the content of the internet resources. Thank you.
If the screws are seized and the impact screwdriver doesn’t work. I recommend buying the Cobalt drill bits. They're a little pricey but they are best when it comes to drilling screws out.
Thank you so much for your awesome videos on the Honda Civic. My first DIY job was learning how to replace the headlight housings using your video. This first job really helped me get more confident working on my car. Then when the time came I was able to learn to do a full front and rear brake replacement with the help of the videos. You guys have helped save me hundreds of dollars. And to think that six months ago, I didn't even know what a torque wrench was!
I did breaks once when I had a 91 accord and it went well because I had a friend that could help!! They only knew about as much me about cars but having an extra set of hands for your first time is really nice..even just the moral support lol and not to mention his grampa let us use his garage which had every tool possible available!!
you wanna work with the car so my suggestion is to turn the steering wheel after you take off the tires. This makes it easier to access the nuts and bolts and could get the job done a little quicker. Also, you don't use brake cleaner on brake pads because that could cause the pads to swell, or break down the material
Not on all the bolts. You should use it on the unit bearing/hub before you put the rotors back on. Anti-seize on the rotor retaining bolts. But not the 17mm bolts that retain the caliper assembly nor the brake pads assembly- use locktite
Thank you for the Honda Civic videos. I enjoy watching the process in preparation to do the work myself. I do feel sorry for your donor car. I can tell a new CV Axle was recently put in, it is the only rust free part.
1A Auto Parts is it necessary to crack open the brake line and remove the dirty fluid out of the caliper as your compressing the piston so dirty fluid doesn’t make its way up the line and clog anything up, like the ABS system or master cylinder? I just had my brakes bled a month ago so I was also wondering if since the fluid is new that this process wouldn’t be necessary? Thanks.
They aren't actually Philips screws, but a JIS Crossproint screw. I bought the tool from Amazon www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003BGTTSE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3:18 THESE ARE NOT PHILLIPS SCREWS!!! Those are JIS screws that require a special screwdriver to remove! You will strip them with a Phillips screwdriver
Hello there from London. I hope you're all alright. So watching your video I feel inspired to change the brake pad and discs myself at home as I'm trying to save some money. I obviously don't have the whole kit of tools or the power lifter. Would I be able to do it using a jack instead ? Would you recommend or not ? Thanks
At 5:00 so I should get that measuring tool to check on my brake pads? I plan on replacing the bearing and hubs and check on other things on the way in and out. Thank you for your video's.
Is there a purpose for hanging the calipers off with the bungee cord? Going to do my front pads, not rotors. Also, when replacing the pads, is it just taking off the pads and putting in the new ones? Do I have to bleed the lines? New at this. 😛😛
+Doreen C Thanks for watching! Yes you will want to make sure the caliper is supported. If you let it hang freely it can damage the brake hose which is not good!
I was under the impression that you should always clean and grease the pins when you change your brakes. Maybe I missed it. Do you guys have a video where you do maintenance on the guide pins? Should the pin with the black bushing tip be on the bottom or the top? I have a 2008 Civic automatic sedan. Thanks
Yes should do that check condition and grease if necessary aswell as grease shims and anti squeal grease for pads. Would also put copper antiseize between discs and hub so it doesn’t get stuck as well as not use retaining screws as they are not needed and often seize
The 2 screws that hold the disc are not Philips but JIS screws (Japan Industrial Standard). The cross shaped hole is not as deep as on a Philips (see JIS screws specifications). This why the screws are damaged (damaged center of the cross hole visible). Use a large blunted Philips socket or drill a litlle hole in the center of the cross to let the Philips socket get deeper into the hole. So that the torque is applied to the sides of the cross, and not the center. More efficient.
Most of these videos show perfect-looking existing vehicle components that are easy to remove, clean, and reinstall. What they FAIL to point out is that both the caliper and its mounting bracket OFTEN need to hammered gently and repeatedly just to separate them from the rotor because of binding due to prolonged rust build up. Same goes for removing the worn out brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket. Also, the wire brush while handy isn't always sufficient to remove the rust build up. Practically EVERY SINGLE metal-to-metal contact surface need to be inspected for major or even seemingly minor (micro) build up of rust. Additional tools such as flat-head screwdriver, dremmel bits, sandpaper, or even a file may be necessary depending on the amount of rust. This is especially true for places with even moderate amounts of annual rain or snow fall resulting in a lot of corrosion. Finally, if the replacement brake pads are larger than the original ones even by a few micrometers, they become very hard (nearly impossible) to install and may need to be ground out.
+HatsNSlimShades This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1AAuto.com
Totally missed taking the cap off the master cylinder for compressing the piston when installing new pads. That's important and you just blew that entire part off. The only reason it didn't apply here was because you actually weren't installing new pads and rotors, but it was the entire point of the video, so it should have been included.
@@1AAuto You're welcome. Not trying to be a troll. I'm just picturing someone trying to compress the piston with the mc cap still on and losing their mind.
Good point, I changed my rotors and I opened up a little bit the cap, some fluid overflow ..Once I finished compressing the piston and pushing the brake pedal few times before leaving with the car, everything got back as usual, brake fluid is okay , i didn't need to add more fluid..But if I had not open up the cap, something wrong would have happened..I can't recall the fluid measuring, but maybe I had too much in the reservoir otherwise it wouldn't overflow.
Now I know why you skipped the part about takings the bolt out of the caliper bracket... did you hear it up at all? I been going at it for 30 minutes and half a can of WD-40 (metaphorically speaking)
I use an impact driver with a special huge philip bit on it.. So easy to remove them.. Anti seize help too when removing them next time..They dont really need to be hard tighten..
Just remove the master cylinder cap to release pressure, push the cylinder back with water pump pliers or c clamp and screw back on master cylinder cap, pump brakes, done
Regarding those 2 rotor hold down screws they are called JIS screws which stands for Japan industrial screws that looks like Phillip screws but they are not they have a slightly different cross pattern and will strip out when using a regular Phillip screwdriver if they are on really tight but using theses JIS screwdrivers will normally get these stubborn screws out,I purchased mine through Amazon,This usually avoids the headache of using impact screw remover or worst yet drilling it out
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
hi. after watched your video. i changed by myselft the front breaks pad and the rotors. 2 screws stuck on the rotor(left side) very rusty. the head was broken then need to drill it. spent 2 hours to remove those 2 screws. at the end all works fine. save alot of money. this is my first time changing breaks pad and it run very smooth and silence no noise anymore. thank you .
You can buy an impact driver to get those screws out. There a pain in the butt. You don’t need to put them back in. They put them in to keep rotors from falling off on assembly line.
@@What_Fred_Said Mine were rusted in so badly that not even an impact and loads of penetrant would remove them. I just ended up using a Dremel with a cutting wheel to cut the screw heads (and rotors, unavoidable but who cares) until they broke.
Yeah those screws are almost like rivets when removing them. Just got to break them.
You just saved me at least $300. I bought a complete front brake kit from amazon for $50 and did everything in my driveway in under an hour. First time working on brakes too.
+Suneil Kumar Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
damn 50 bucks 😂😂😂😂
Remove the two screws BEFORE taking the caliper off. That way, you can keep the disk from turning.
+Chris Primavera Thanks for the tip!
Your whole series are the highest level professional quality training videos! They are down to the point, informative, and short! Great contribution to the content of the internet resources. Thank you.
That c clamp trick was essential. Thank you
If the screws are seized and the impact screwdriver doesn’t work. I recommend buying the Cobalt drill bits. They're a little pricey but they are best when it comes to drilling screws out.
Thank you so much for your awesome videos on the Honda Civic. My first DIY job was learning how to replace the headlight housings using your video. This first job really helped me get more confident working on my car. Then when the time came I was able to learn to do a full front and rear brake replacement with the help of the videos. You guys have helped save me hundreds of dollars. And to think that six months ago, I didn't even know what a torque wrench was!
😂
I did breaks once when I had a 91 accord and it went well because I had a friend that could help!! They only knew about as much me about cars but having an extra set of hands for your first time is really nice..even just the moral support lol and not to mention his grampa let us use his garage which had every tool possible available!!
I fixed my brakes today. First time I didn't need any help. Steering wheel is rock steady , and it's so cool that the brakes don't shake. 👍👍👍
you wanna work with the car so my suggestion is to turn the steering wheel after you take off the tires. This makes it easier to access the nuts and bolts and could get the job done a little quicker. Also, you don't use brake cleaner on brake pads because that could cause the pads to swell, or break down the material
Shouldn't you use "never-seize" on the bolts when re-assembling?
Absolutely.
Not on all the bolts. You should use it on the unit bearing/hub before you put the rotors back on. Anti-seize on the rotor retaining bolts. But not the 17mm bolts that retain the caliper assembly nor the brake pads assembly- use locktite
Thank you for the Honda Civic videos. I enjoy watching the process in preparation to do the work myself. I do feel sorry for your donor car. I can tell a new CV Axle was recently put in, it is the only rust free part.
+travisamc Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank you. Changed the pads and rotors on my daughter's 2008 civic and all good!
1A Auto Parts is it necessary to crack open the brake line and remove the dirty fluid out of the caliper as your compressing the piston so dirty fluid doesn’t make its way up the line and clog anything up, like the ABS system or master cylinder?
I just had my brakes bled a month ago so I was also wondering if since the fluid is new that this process wouldn’t be necessary?
Thanks.
What is the size/thread for the “back-out” holes??? Thank you
Don't forget to clean/replace the pad clips and slide pins. This can lead to uneven wear and you'll be swapping brakes often.
Should you loosin the bleed screw before you compress the caliper?
what size is the JIS bit needed to remove the 2 rotor screws?
how are you collapsing the piston before removing the caliper? can't see what your doing or how?
Great visibility, thank you for being clear and concise
When doing this do you have to bleed all four brakes even if rear are drums?
where can i get that impact tool to remove those screws. Mine are completely stuck on, only was able to remove 1 of 8.
They aren't actually Philips screws, but a JIS Crossproint screw. I bought the tool from Amazon www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003BGTTSE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hey! Thx for the tips 👍 do I have to put « glue » on the slide pin bolts when reinstaling them?
What if you get the caliper bracket mounting bolts loose but they keep spinning not coming out
At 4:37, what do you mean by putting to bolts in? What size and type of bolt and how does that get it off? Thanks!
3:18 THESE ARE NOT PHILLIPS SCREWS!!! Those are JIS screws that require a special screwdriver to remove! You will strip them with a Phillips screwdriver
Did you squeeze in the bracket to relieve pressure? Couldn't see what you were doing on the video. Could you clarify what you were squeezing?
Is a 1978 honda civic with front disc brakes done the same way? I can't find anything at all about changing the front rotor on my old honda
Well worth watching if you’re considering doing a brake job, thank you!
+Tom Whissel Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high quality auto parts. 1aauto.com
This is the best video out there. Just did my brakes myself. Thanks!
+Kendall Ruff Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
are these disc brakes?
Thanks for the in depth tutorial! Got mine done with some time and elbow grease. Much more worth while when you do it yourself!
+Lomein719 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Hello there from London.
I hope you're all alright.
So watching your video I feel inspired to change the brake pad and discs myself at home as I'm trying to save some money. I obviously don't have the whole kit of tools or the power lifter. Would I be able to do it using a jack instead ?
Would you recommend or not ?
Thanks
Great video! Many thanks!
Isn’t the rotor retaining screw a JIS and not Phillips T ?
At 5:00 so I should get that measuring tool to check on my brake pads? I plan on replacing the bearing and hubs and check on other things on the way in and out. Thank you for your video's.
No I think he was just showing that the pads ye was putting back in were the same as the new ones
Hybrid civic the same?
Looking forward to trying this out in my civic
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +cesar moya
Is there a purpose for hanging the calipers off with the bungee cord? Going to do my front pads, not rotors. Also, when replacing the pads, is it just taking off the pads and putting in the new ones? Do I have to bleed the lines? New at this. 😛😛
+Doreen C Thanks for watching! Yes you will want to make sure the caliper is supported. If you let it hang freely it can damage the brake hose which is not good!
I was under the impression that you should always clean and grease the pins when you change your brakes. Maybe I missed it. Do you guys have a video where you do maintenance on the guide pins? Should the pin with the black bushing tip be on the bottom or the top? I have a 2008 Civic automatic sedan. Thanks
+Joe Humeas We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Yes should do that check condition and grease if necessary aswell as grease shims and anti squeal grease for pads. Would also put copper antiseize between discs and hub so it doesn’t get stuck as well as not use retaining screws as they are not needed and often seize
How do you know is 80 ft lbs ? With the Rachel
He used a torque wrench, if you listen you can hear the "click" when it reaches the torque.
The 2 screws that hold the disc are not Philips but JIS screws (Japan Industrial Standard). The cross shaped hole is not as deep as on a Philips (see JIS screws specifications).
This why the screws are damaged (damaged center of the cross hole visible).
Use a large blunted Philips socket or drill a litlle hole in the center of the cross to let the Philips socket get deeper into the hole. So that the torque is applied to the sides of the cross, and not the center. More efficient.
Hey i just did my front pads when i put it back together the wheel is hitting the caliber bracket u have any idea why wasnt doing it before
Was this causing you any problems with driving? I see a year ago, that you posted. I’m having grinding issues now and was curious.
Most of these videos show perfect-looking existing vehicle components that are easy to remove, clean, and reinstall. What they FAIL to point out is that both the caliper and its mounting bracket OFTEN need to hammered gently and repeatedly just to separate them from the rotor because of binding due to prolonged rust build up. Same goes for removing the worn out brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket. Also, the wire brush while handy isn't always sufficient to remove the rust build up. Practically EVERY SINGLE metal-to-metal contact surface need to be inspected for major or even seemingly minor (micro) build up of rust. Additional tools such as flat-head screwdriver, dremmel bits, sandpaper, or even a file may be necessary depending on the amount of rust. This is especially true for places with even moderate amounts of annual rain or snow fall resulting in a lot of corrosion. Finally, if the replacement brake pads are larger than the original ones even by a few micrometers, they become very hard (nearly impossible) to install and may need to be ground out.
+Anthony Gonsalvis Thanks for the feedback!
Is this same for 2011 civic also?
+HatsNSlimShades This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1AAuto.com
Great video
Totally missed taking the cap off the master cylinder for compressing the piston when installing new pads. That's important and you just blew that entire part off. The only reason it didn't apply here was because you actually weren't installing new pads and rotors, but it was the entire point of the video, so it should have been included.
+DANDY DJ and PHOTO BOOTH Thank you for the feedback! 1aauto.com
@@1AAuto You're welcome. Not trying to be a troll. I'm just picturing someone trying to compress the piston with the mc cap still on and losing their mind.
Good point, I changed my rotors and I opened up a little bit the cap, some fluid overflow ..Once I finished compressing the piston and pushing the brake pedal few times before leaving with the car, everything got back as usual, brake fluid is okay , i didn't need to add more fluid..But if I had not open up the cap, something wrong would have happened..I can't recall the fluid measuring, but maybe I had too much in the reservoir otherwise it wouldn't overflow.
@@einzigkeit7216did you bleed brakes?
Doesnt say wich way to turn the bolts
my honda civic si 2007 manual where is the power steering
+Jonny Morales Thanks for checking us out! We currently do not have this information available to us.
Great video!
I heard if you don't bleed the front brake when you are pushing in the calliper you could damage the ABS system.
I have an 08 Honda and was mind blown how it only has front calipers .
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
My slide pins will not come out. They just keep spinning
Now I know why you skipped the part about takings the bolt out of the caliper bracket... did you hear it up at all? I been going at it for 30 minutes and half a can of WD-40 (metaphorically speaking)
I use an impact driver with a special huge philip bit on it.. So easy to remove them.. Anti seize help too when removing them next time..They dont really need to be hard tighten..
Thanks this was helpful.
Why the Phillip screws 😭😭
Great clean video
+tiger-chapincito13 Thank you!
Thanks you’re the best 👍
Don't try to force the piston in the caliper...on these it screws in
19mm wrench and 12 mm socket
17 mm wrench + socket
Those two screws are special screws. They are NOT a regular Philips. You will strip them unless using the right kind of screwdriver.
Why doesn't the video show how to bleed the brake line? Is it not necessary here?
Not unless you let any air into the system like removing the hose off the caliper
Just remove the master cylinder cap to release pressure, push the cylinder back with water pump pliers or c clamp and screw back on master cylinder cap, pump brakes, done
+Kye Cowen Thanks for the tip!
6:40 incorrect. Why? Your not supposed to spray brake parts cleaner on the rubber boots because that can eat away your rubber
Very informative.
+Bryan Carreon Thanks for checking us out!
can't you just leave the rotors on if they are still good instead of buying new ones?
Oh damn. Caliper pin grease. I don't have that.
Thanks
25 and 80
I apologize for not showing up to prom night
What made them think screws on the rotors would be a good idea.. 🤦🏾♂️ time to get this stripped screw off
06-11
"brand new"
The dreaded phillips head screw is a piece of sh*t. You may have to drill it out.
Never use brake cleaner on the break pads guys.
Regarding those 2 rotor hold down screws they are called JIS screws which stands for Japan industrial screws that looks like Phillip screws but they are not they have a slightly different cross pattern and will strip out when using a regular Phillip screwdriver if they are on really tight but using theses JIS screwdrivers will normally get these stubborn screws out,I purchased mine through Amazon,This usually avoids the headache of using impact screw remover or worst yet drilling it out
Thanks